forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on September 04, 2021, 04:13:38 AM
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Spoked wheels 1/48
After Dave put the spoked wheels tutorial online again I read it carefully, also the posting created by Kent.
The last days I experimented a bit and followed finally the way of Kent because I thought it is easier to realize.
So I made my own tool, only all a bit smaller due to intend scale of 1/48.
The first tries failed, the I made an aluminum spacer on the lathe.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WtN9SONBwnve6Yf5beA83OM-wLJQE0bZ)
The next things are needed are two small rim halves, turned from aluminum on lathe. The hub was soldered.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WFh-m2_p3zj8Ctkt7Lrs28UvUWeuNB2A)
The hub is here on the drill shaft, one half rim locked on the spacer and a first layer of spokes is wound in.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QDdlT_Wdg2IEttCYJK22035qQ8_ikO6-)
The second layer of spokes uses an offset row of nails and runs on top of the hub.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tVY-9nPLqrhUkamxkeT7r6lovJFJhEAs)
Now comes a tricky part!
The second half of the rim is put on top, needs to pressed down heavily and the rims are glued together with the spokes with CA.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1e3rxygZpb81iR-kWnlPu9cuxj46vPcIj)
After the glued is hard all the threads around can be cut and the wheel removed from the tool. I secured again with CA and cleaned the rim outside. I used some wheels from the spare box for the tires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14Rm2xEBP-JJHQsCLaXkiMpwt8gCA7T3b)
The tries are not yet glued, I painted only the spokes with some dark metal paint.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Wvfmu5K0KQEwNaU1Gs5Hfvvu-IEpLy3n)
The outer diameter of the rim is 10mm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YlBwMt6HmW9DgOuE9hee6BMbfCzJho0Y)
Thanks to this great forum I'm really happy with the result of my first spoked wheels!
Cheers,
Frank
PS: This thread will be enhanced to a build report.
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That worked out brilliantly, Frank! What kind of thread did you use for the spokes?
Cheers,
Gary
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Thank you Gary!
Oh yes, I forgot that: that is 0.04mm fishing line, ordered on ebay some years ago. I don't have a brand name.
I ordered 0.02, 0.04, 0.06 and 0.08mm fishing line, only a short piece, to check how it looks in real. After check I decided to order more of this 0.06mm for rigging. All come on black no name spools, the seller is no more active on ebay :(
For the spokes I used now the 10m trial of 0.04mm.
Cheers,
Frank
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Well done.
I have been planning to have a try at making some myself. I was thinking of starting big with 1/32 and work my way down to 1/72 but your success has me now thinking of starting with 1/48.
There are a number of good tutorials on making wire spoked wheels on the papermodels.com web site. I will make a post in the other 1/32 spoked wheel thread as well.
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/416736-post10.html
I have looked elsewhere on the web for these articles to no avail and you have to be a member at papermodels.com to download them. I have the pdf's if anyone is interested.
cheers, Graham
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This is a link to a tutorial on making spoked wheels by Alan Grayer:
http://www.sampsonorchestra.net/paper/Motorcycles/Downloads/Wheels/index.htm
It is one of the tutorials on papermodels.com and even though Alan's focus is on a motorcycle wheel the techniques are similar, just the differ somewhat.
cheers, Graham
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Ahh, but have you got the lacing pattern right?
Seriously, that's a lovely piece of work, I must have another try at doing that
Richard
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Now you are Just showing off ;D Seriously, that is amazing Frank!
RAGIII
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That is going to look good on anything they are attached to. Looks like the rims are cleaned up sufficiently for this scale.
So, what are these going on??? ???
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😮😮😮!
Beautiful!
/Fredrik
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That looks fantastic. You now have me wondering if I can do it too.
Do you run each spoke from one side of the wheel to the other, or loop it back on itself in a U-shape?
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Thank you my friends!
That is going to look good on anything they are attached to. Looks like the rims are cleaned up sufficiently for this scale.
I should only glue from outside, then it is clean. Filed the rims inside a bit so that CA has more grip on the alu.
So, what are these going on??? ???
A little bit of patience please. :D
You now have me wondering if I can do it too.
If one can do it in 1/144 then it is you!
Do you run each spoke from one side of the wheel to the other, or loop it back on itself in a U-shape?
There was some discussion the the spokes wheel thread started by Des. See for tutorial there.
I followed more the way decriped by Kent, here you can see the order of the one thread better:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10175.msg199525#msg199525
Cheers,
Frank
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As usual Frank you are demonstrating excellent scratch building skills. I have tried this before but had no luck because I managed to get the order of the nails wrong. I must try again because this is a very useful and important technique.
A first class pair of wheels.
Stephen.
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Magnificent work, I must try this one day.
Cheers!
Brad
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I can't stop thinking about this ;D
Out of curiosity, has anyone ever wandered over to a real aircraft and measured the diameter of the wire used for the spokes? I find that and the actual diameter of rigging wires are always a bit of a mystery.
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Great results, Frank!
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Now you are Just showing off ;D Seriously, that is amazing Frank!
RAGIII
I totally agree with Rick.
You are a fast learner Frank, it looks superb!
Willem
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Thank you very much for your feedback to all of you, highly appreciated!
Out of curiosity, has anyone ever wandered over to a real aircraft and measured the diameter of the wire used for the spokes?
The used fishing line would be 2mm in real. I think that is ok, compared to a bicycle.
May be WNW has some detail pictures in the gallery and you can measure and compare against the diameter of the wheel? May be a wheel is open on museum pictures ...
Landing legs
Ok, nice wheels need nice legs!
So I made some legs from squeezed brass micro tube, and soldered them together with another tube below. All pinned. That was somehow straight forward.
The tricky thing was to connect the side with another bar! To get the right angles I put the upper pins into wood with some holes according to the plan.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18aYTTXk52HmEAiCBIIhQMqXiDrvTbvn9)
So this is the final position ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jwL0jUeN3-Jokcd6RHjcA77LoI0R22Sm)
... here enhanced with a axle from browned nickel silver.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1W_vF4rDXE8QxPpgLLV9WBQsxZYZINWuP)
So this will be the gear on my next project, but it will be painted together with the fuselage later. After that the axle will be added with suspension.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zhoKnpsRAb-9SjZ-5CxBJrFGaiNZoRBL)
Cheers,
Frank
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That is a truly masterful undercarriage unit Frank. I can appreciate the problem of getting the angle of the legs to the axle correct - problems like that are a real test of modelling, and as usual you have overcome the problem extremely well.
Stephen.
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I can't stop thinking about this ;D
Out of curiosity, has anyone ever wandered over to a real aircraft and measured the diameter of the wire used for the spokes? I find that and the actual diameter of rigging wires are always a bit of a mystery.
You can add in the lacing pattern. I was half joking when I asked earlier
Frank has gone for an acceptable pattern where the spokes cross once near the hub. I have a feeling actual aero wheel spokes at this time don't cross at all
The crossing is there to allow torque between the hub and the rim. Aero wheels don't have brakes so there is mot torque generated
If you check the wheels of sports cars they have very complex crossing patterns due to the engine and braking torque.
I think Frank has copied the wheels for the Crossley tender
Richard
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Wow Richard, as always, lots of knowledge and food for thought!
Thank you!
Frank
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FYI: In my notes I found a couple of links to period wheels:
(https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/maxim08-15/D7/Wheel_0002_zpsbea1oiqf.jpg)
and
(https://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/maxim08-15/D7/IMG_0002_zps3jijg1ld.jpg)
noted as:
" still with 760 x 100 Excelsior tires mounted.
The 'F.K.' indicates Franz Krause of Berlin, one of the preferred wheel vendors. The 'II'
indicates that this wheel is for a Doppledecker with max weight of 1200 kg and a max one wheel side-load of 3600kg."
Unfortunately my notes are missing the source but I suspect that maybe something I found on the aerodrome forum.
Also of note, if you right click on the images and select "open in new tab", you will get the image without the photobucket watermak.
cheers, Graham
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This is a Palmer Cord wheel (1500×300) similar to the ones used on the Handley Page V/1500.
Yet another spoke arrangement.
(Just to fuel the discussion..... ;D)
Willem
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I've seen many different spoke patterns used on wheels. Straight radial lacing was used even though it is the weakest lacing pattern. For reference, modern bicycle wheels typically use a 32 spoke, 3-cross pattern with 2mm spokes. Wheels used on these aircraft would need much more strength than a bicycle wheel, so the spokes are much thicker - looks about 3 - 4 mm base on pictures, and I suspect used more spokes, like 36 or 40 spoke pattern. All depends on the weight the wheels need to support.
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As usual, great soldering work, Frank.
I saw on another post you were working on Austro Hungarian markings?
(I'm just going to keep prying ;D )
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A lot of interesting posts and information! Thanks to all.
I saw on another post you were working on Austro Hungarian markings?
(I'm just going to keep prying ;D )
Oh, can't remember ... You mean the number with the white border? It's for a British future project!
But here - YES Sir! Austro - Hungarian is a direct hit!
Another hint: with a very interesting engine, not available by Small Stuff ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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Your usual precision in soldering Frank. The gear and wheels look Fabulous!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick!
Cowling
The cowling was turned on lathe. Also drilled, milled and finally polished with a rubber stick.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1e1xDx88f4j5X8QWswTkSGkdhznzfCwpK)
There was a very nice and thin resin cowling in the kit, but I wanted real aluminum to be able to polish it.
And the resin has 5 cuts on lower side, but the drawing shows 7, looks also on the pictures like that.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fQ9KlzH_RTYyWJeuQ4Vf9isMXqP0lAXh)
Now it is clear, that this a Austro-Hungarian type and resin kit, so another comparison:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ly8g27fu1B_RxA730iOWZXiMm4mMhfLY)
The new legs are much closer to the drawing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GRIoablvySS94O29OJVu_R1j_AU_6O02)
Also in thickness:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HjUOvdWTCS-TLFvleVFsa3if-pbRwJVX)
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow, Frank's moved up another level then! This is wonderful work, those spoked wheels are incredible. This is going to be a big Bughunter treat for the eyes. :)
Richie
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The cowling is Brilliant work!
RAGIII
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I'm thinking we should have a spin off thread on wire wheels. It could include tyres, covers and axle fittings
Richard
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Interesting Frank , the cowl gives away the type and nice to see you tackle another resin kit ;)
Alexis
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Thank you very much to all, and welcome to the show!
Interesting Frank , the cowl gives away the type
Well spotted, Alexis! It is a Aviatik 30.40
and nice to see you tackle another resin kit ;)
Exactly. It is a resin kit by Alliance Models in 1/48.
And now a question:
This type is very comparable to the 30.27 biplane, it has two Schwarzlose MGs on top of the cowling, in front of the cockpit:
(http://flyingmachines.ru/Images7/Fighters/44-2.jpg)
In the side view of the Aviatik 30.40 there are no visible MGs, but a hole on the very outer radius of the cowling.
Is it possible that there was internal MGs?
(https://preview.ibb.co/nzEUVK/1faf77fb3130415acd1192bf1f0614dd.jpg)
On the other hand the 4-blade 30.27 has the holes _and_ MGs on top of the cowling:
(http://flyingmachines.ru/Images7/Austria/71-7.jpg)
So I assume no weapons. What do you think?
Cheers,
Frank
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The upper hole in the cowling doesn't look oriented correctly for a machine gun to fire through, IMHO.
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Thank you for your opinion Ken, I think that now too.
The gun barrel needs to be outside of the rotary arc, so that would not work.
After checking the pictures in best quality available I think this one has no mounted Schwarzlose guns, but is prepared for them. So I modified the fuselage accordingly. More once the cockpit is finished (which will need a while).
Cheers,
Frank
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Fascinating aircraft you find, Frank! Great skill, as ever, producing that cowl. How did you create that polished pattern? Polishing or paint?
Cheers
Fredrik
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How did you create that polished pattern? Polishing or paint?
As I wrote, the kit resin cowling is really great, but would require painting (the 5 versus 7 slots issue is not that important).
So I made one from aluminum, polished it and applied the pattern with a rubber polishing stick in my Proxxon drill machine. May be I will add some more between the exiting ones.
This is a picture of the polishing rubber stick from the Quadruplane build. I found a set of different rubber, felt and other polishing sticks with a 2.4mm shaft years ago in a super market. Now they are useful ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19jmj8Z0ibASgQaaVHOtjur_HTDoXzP16)
Cheers,
Frank
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I suspected that. Looks great Frank!
I've been thinking about ways to that on a plastic cowling. But I suspect your method won't work on paint. A rubber bit would probably just remove the paint and probably melt the plastic as well.
Keep up the good work!
/Fredrik
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Sorry I have No answer for your question. If I took a WAG I would say Unarmed!
RAGIII
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Hey Frank ,
looking at the photo of 30.40 I believe this was unarmed . The two small holes in the cowl aren't gun ports , too small for that . Perhaps for servicing the engine or filler ports for oil/fuel ?
Alexis
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You are right my friends! After more deeper analysis of the pictures in better quality I say unarmed too.
Resin
In meantime I worked on a lot of parts, but no subassembly is ready yet. But some pictures as a sign of life.
The quality is not bad, but very thick sprue gates.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1i02Dz1HppCNyzydN80sC1wvakHm6HULv)
Another example are the wing struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZRVBFgIxkzEXmflx2Ha79-D3fzFaRiyP)
After removing the sprue on the tail of the fuselage a cut out for the tail plane needs to be done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-D-fQkHHq3iSK8dC1P6S4x-20e4ETUa8)
On the wing I cut the ailerons. They are very thin for my usual brass wires but there were four visible hinges on each side, so I added nickel silver stripes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cg-OodD0epljymn8TaBBRa_3vShqbkgc)
A detail view. On the aileron there is a bubble.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14QsZtJHXkw6gLjOC__0sbxrxVPdHkqm_)
I closed two bubbles with stretched sprue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iYDja6-rhJB9iUNNJlpiYIJzOSAOk7lb)
I cut and added the same hinges also on tailplane and rudder.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iztDsgo6vMjXhCzag0F511KEaCAD-_M8)
There is a picture from the back which shows the special shape of the ailerons, but the kit wing was flat.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dp5Exz/abc372edce773724df24c6eca190da68.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dTf3qK)
So I bent the ailerons with some heat. I hope they will stay in this shape for a long time!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CFiTVjeA0uwdVsoHDEFiecEH42RSTG4S)
So the first parts are primed now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17_-fSAC-bHobcYbnjdrFtyyrkZJAwDsW)
At least one subassembly in done - the instrument panel. There is guesswork, so I looked at other Aviatik types to get an idea. Eduard PE and some brass on real wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Q7zYIVc__QG0DvqSLwfyrsGmogVSoIDY)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zOyzlk_sQB0-hy9m7xng4_S2xJD5T6iW)
The next task is to complete the cockpit to be able to close the fuselage.
Cheers,
Frank
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As always really awesome work!
RAGIII
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Great work as always, Frank -
Love your instrument panel
Regards
Dave
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Your instrument panel is a thing of beauty Frank and I love those bent ailerons and all the hinges. Bending those resin parts has worked out really well, must have been a bit scary!
Richie
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Spectacular work, Frank. I allways admire your skills, when it comes to those delicate parts.
Bye,
Manni
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Thank you very much Rick, Dave, Richie and Manni!
Progress is at the moment slower then expected, but I will continue.
Bending those resin parts has worked out really well, must have been a bit scary!
Yep, and I had two problems:
It bent back after a while, so I need to go a bit further and/or hotter ::)
And I wanted to keep the hinges side straight, so again my little Proxxon machine vice was a big help here (used also on the mill and as squeeze tool for struts).
Cheers,
Frank
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Sorry to be late Frank but I have been away visiting family. Good progress on this - the ailerons in particular are excellent. The real wood in the instrument panel makes a major difference - so much more realistic.
Stephen.
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Thank you Stephen!
Steyr 11cyl 160hp Rhone rotary
This Aviatik 30.40 prototype uses a very special engine, as the 30.27 and 30.29. It was a 11 cylinder Rhone 160hp built in the city Steyr, but only delivered in small numbers.
This engine type is not available by Small Stuff but I had the idea to take an 9 cylinder Le Rhone 110hp (and some spare parts) and combine it with the central casing of the kit. On the right side the kit cylinders.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16j2QtgDg7QqD86hmI5ne4sJP7Zn_D0Ct)
I had to modify the cylinder mounts. Here with my cowling.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hsuHwYPkxRYBkrPMwlfQ0GIk0VThXo60)
The rotary fits into the cowling.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1m--8GoAUhpI-wQ66_IWmxeDX8oqW-gLa)
Here I made again a low friction brass bearing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aHHdNmlLcAPkCoyqLpWtUG01t3oxKhqU)
Rotary glued to the bearing, painted and intake pipes are added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17cbf9tt8z0PP4poc1HtEfG955cVvrRzP)
For the intake pipes I drilled into the recesses of the casing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Tb1BiJetXBCPgZZ7a0VDy8ixyigpG1HS)
After adding 22 valve rockers (there were 11 of each type for the 9cyl in the kit, but here I have to use the spares) I cut the "handles". The sprue can be used for easier mounting, as recommended in the enhanced Small Stuff manual (linked on the manual page).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JGVnCWA11XVntmjqBjGLjJmjZO4gEbX7)
As next the push rods were added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rMc7Bs3DuORRWtmmWjEPJKhJZUHOK4zs)
This engine was nearly finished, here are pictures in the outer light on the balcony. You can see here some ignition wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1j8jZNEqBnv5D4H4_qgZYmpaa2qQlBFRP)
For the push rods I drilled 0.22mm holes into the casing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FG32FqZH9IIx8Z_lfhKW4zdrcTHdFmMT)
The finished rotary engine on my reference book about the production in Steyr.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SNYEoHCAUAvSzDHTmN_Ot8QDXlzA-ECZ)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15zYtq3ZWW13yvQOw-saNS0t7rQHVPt10)
The final picture shows the rotary after a oil paint wash in evening outdoor light. In real it looks more oily.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hR8BF8VfL3XVGAzcz8BmRkrBYae7eZe1)
That is now a absolute unique model of the 11 cylinder 160hp Steyr-Rhone! I could not repeat because I have no second casing.
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow! What a beautiful engine Frank! It is as always a shame to cover it with a cowling...even a cowling as gorgeous as yours!
RAGIII
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Everything you make is unique Frank. And unrepeatable - at least by the rest of us mere mortals!
Stephen.
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That is gorgeous! ;D
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Wow! It looks so real that you would expect in on an RC model and just fly it!
What is that reference book it is placed on Frank?
It looks very interesting.
Willem
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That's a beautiful custom job on the engine Frank, great to see another shot of that amazing cowling too. :)
Richie
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Thank you Rick, Stephen, William, Willem and Richie! Your kind words are highly appreciated!
What is that reference book it is placed on Frank?
It is a book about the industry in Steyr, in German language. I bought it during a visit in Steyr some years ago in a local bookstore.
Title: "Steyr-Daimler-Puch AG: Historie der ehemaligen Gründerfirmen in Mitteleuropa Imperiale Zeit 1864-1918"
Authors: Hinteregger Christian, Antensteiner Helmut
ISBN 9783902216571, Wien 2016, 220 pages
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41eq5F2cTAL._SL500_.jpg)
It is about the industry in Steyr and shows cars, railways, tractors, aircrafts, engines, guns (e.g. the Schwarzlose MG) and the production of all of that.
Seems to be still available but only for a much higher than the list price.
I'm not sure if I should recommend this book to an aircraft modeler because only parts are usable. It is more about the history of the companies. But yes, there are some pages with photos of the 11cyl rotary I have shown, and also some other aircraft types.
The thick "Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft of World War One" is much more important.
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful outcome on the rotary Frank
Alexis
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Thanks Frank. I think you are right, this book would not be of real interest to me except for a few photographs of the Rhone engine.
However, I am already the lucky owner of "Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft of World War One". And that is a fabulous book!
Willem
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Thank you Alexis!
However, I am already the lucky owner of "Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft of World War One". And that is a fabulous book!
Willem, have a look for the Aviatik 30.27 in this book. There is a nice front picture on page 151 showing the engine.
Cheers,
Frank
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Willem, have a look for the Aviatik 30.27 in this book. There is a nice front picture on page 151 showing the engine.
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks, I will Frank!
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just fly it!
At least I tried a test run 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dMa9mm5DxClTI3q-BcfFd3XEBPMQ3BAy)
Cheers,
Frank
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8)
RAGIII
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Always entertaining Frank! :)
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Your engine is so beautiful :)
I like your choice of colors/shading...they make the engine look very authentic.
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just fly it!
At least I tried a test run 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dMa9mm5DxClTI3q-BcfFd3XEBPMQ3BAy)
Cheers,
Frank
You are forget about propeller! ;D
Cheers,
Paul
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Great work on the kitbash engine, Frank. Really looks good.
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Vrooom!
Great workmanship! You'll have to produce a booklet about the building process and keep it next to the finished model. How else will people know what they're really looking at?
/Fredrik
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Thank you Rick, Richie, Michael, Paul, Ken and Fredrik!
Always entertaining Frank! :)
That's why we're here and doing build reports, isn't it?
Your engine is so beautiful :)
I like your choice of colors/shading...they make the engine look very authentic.
Thx! I love the Alclad metal paints - they look really nice!
You are forget about propeller! ;D
Paul, just a moment please - I have to write the next update ;)
You'll have to produce a booklet about the building process and keep it next to the finished model. How else will people know what they're really looking at?
With the build report half of the way is done, let's see.
Cheers,
Frank
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Airscrew
The last days I made the airscrew. After gluing a block of different veneers I sanded it to shape. This time I had problems with delaminations. May be my wood glue is too old or the surfaces was to much polished. I should sand them with more coarse sandpaper to give the glue some grip.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BEj1W_cYuyr64SS3WGeBUGvLwHHbTSax)
With paint it looks better.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19v6ikVygWYKBhAa5SrCmyjIsq017ZtWI)
The back side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dTjUSj9tapT-ZDRq68lnvtwf5_GSMqZB)
Preview of the mounting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1t8lhFr45aWeQd8ecf-MUZ-xOzrRSO6Td)
You are forget about propeller! ;D
For Paul again running with propeller 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vprdc5YTDeR0-BW-TCqbXOfoPmHxLAoE)
After decals a final layer of clear coat needs to be added followed by the hub.
Beside the airscrew I masked the wind and tailplane.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sfKofBGgbCeW3acmRLElP6dbxUHEM1Zo)
Painted shadows ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wUcJCapl8p5BEzdC6cQfBOLGrOCYvgOR)
and the only linen surfaces on this model.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-MALtAWXBVpxtEJvGQ26-4-yjFRlGprS)
Only some small steps but in the right direction.
Cheers,
Frank
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Your props are always Brilliant and this one is No Exception! The wing treatment is excellent.
RAGIII
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I completely agree with Rick - prop and wings are first class. I am also very impressed by that rotating engine - super!
Stephen.
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That's a beautiful propeller, no sign of any problems in the finished item. Wings look great too. A little at a time this is getting towards a stunner of a model.
Richie
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Thank you Rick, Stephen and Richie!
That's a beautiful propeller, no sign of any problems in the finished item.
Luckily the delamination happens in a early state of sanding. I spread the gap open and used a scalpel blade to smear wood glue into the gap.
After drying under pressure by clamps I could finish it normally.
Cheers,
Frank
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Great looking prop and linen!
/Fredrik
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Wonderful, Frank!
Great engine and prop
Regards
Dave
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Thank you Fredrik and Dave for leaving some nice words!
Cockpit
There was a lot of work to do for the cockpit.
On top of the fuselage there was a fine line, but I opened the fuselage there according to the picture from back.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xagqf-4mKgPS9mRfnF1d9a17FQVGELbe)
I primed the inside of the fuselage, painted wood base and some wood structure.
Some frames made from real wood are also added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AfTGlPuc0xqmyrR_6uzM9Gof-ovYXxDQ)
A coating with clear orange made it more look like wood. The instrument panel (shown some postings before) is mounted. A base plate made of real wood is also prepared.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dFtu43HxpKlVmulvR-ukF_16YoY5UW3R)
I had forgotten the brackets on the rudder pedals, now they are there.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ek1m2OLIL3Lie88J0JOTKfdCHybJN7S5)
I soldered a seat from brass.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GRgDvbWOHkEK6h4RT26de6ICpnrSUo7Y)
Curved at the top and a base glued underneath.
I wanted to add a tubular structure on the outside of the seat, but since this is not visible later I dropped that idea.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1asVdSbaCzYBNmwaiK6C4aou7AW1tV8L7)
The seat cushion was made from milliput.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LhFzpuzhgbN-D_3bejk-nzFtT1whYItC)
Also the small cushion in the back. The seat belts are by Eduard/HGW.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1i9xPz5mht9AxCZ_VNhcaegQuI5uUpclu)
Instead of using the plain kit stick I soldered a new control column, with real wood handgrips.
Forgot a picture before mounting it.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1OcRAyitwKY1vCO_sFwdu2blAUjsRL5Cs)
My new part compared to the kit parts. There is no information about the cockpit of this prototype, but I used the assumption, that it looks very common to other late types of Aviatik (summer 1918).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19JDSG_ubxXZCcri-If0270v7lHFd1baR)
After mounting the base plate to one halve I added a upper belt.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1d7odgLXrkhfGtkPkiI0MKI0pX-WD6aJo)
To avoid a empty side I added an engine control.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1G9-DsGCtsTDDHBLPhA6g0bRlMgfgdh00)
That was a lot of work, but there are still some parts missing before the fuselage can be closed.
Cheers,
Frank
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Lovely wood tones and your Usual Fantastic Detailing. Looking great Frank!
RAGIII
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Super detailing Frank - and it is all so tiny. How much of this will be visible on the completed model?
Stephen.
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All of your cockpit details look great, Frank. The wood tones also (better than the real wood). Would it be possible to paint in the wood grain 'patterns' before applying the orange overcoat? Perhaps in this scale it would not look right?
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Love it Frank, lots of really clever and creative touches. The wooden handles on the control stick are brilliant. Looks like lots of work has gone into it, it must be very satisfying to create all these little details. Especially when you do it so well!
Richie
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I expect to see this beauty finished on Saturday, Frank! :)
Andreas
-
the wood tones are excellent and the rest of it ain't bad either ;)
-
This looks so sick, Frank. Allways I see your progress I instantly want to go into my man cave and start modeling.
Bye,
Manni
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Thank you Rick, Stephen, Ken, Richie, Andreas, EBF and Manni! Highly appreciated and motivation to go further! ;)
How much of this will be visible on the completed model?
I hope all what I have done while viewing through the fuselage opening. I have done done the seat frame as this one would not be visible.
Our WWI subjects shows more compared to e.g. jet models, because we have no cockpit glass on top of the details ;)
The wood tones also (better than the real wood).
With naked eye the real wood looks ok, but I must admit that this "Indian apple" has a bit more grain. I used this only on the floor board, so it shows more a darker used wood.
Would it be possible to paint in the wood grain 'patterns' before applying the orange overcoat? Perhaps in this scale it would not look right?
Hmm, I do not understand your question? That is, what I have done. May be may description was confusing.
- Primed white with airbrush
- Wood base beige (acrylic wood paint set) with brush
- wood grain brown (acrylic wood paint set) with brush
Then I had this state (sorry, the colors looks a bit unreal):
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AfTGlPuc0xqmyrR_6uzM9Gof-ovYXxDQ)
A clear orange was painted as latest step with airbrush.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dFtu43HxpKlVmulvR-ukF_16YoY5UW3R)
Looks like lots of work has gone into it, it must be very satisfying to create all these little details.
Oh yes Richie, and even more work to be done!
I expect to see this beauty finished on Saturday, Frank! :)
Sorry Andreas, no way! There is too much work in front of me, and I need to think about solutions for problems I already know about ::) Also the paints will need some drying time before I can mask fro the next layer.
May be I should explain: at the coming weekend there is a Model Fair and Exhibition in Ried im Innkreis (Austria), the first one I know after the Covid shutdown. I will be there with some of my later models, so if you have a chance please come and meet us there!
This looks so sick, Frank. Allways I see your progress I instantly want to go into my man cave and start modeling.
Yes Manni, I'm sick! The disease is called AMS - Advanced Modeling Syndrom.
The next update will be even more crazy! 8)
But if it motivates you to continue with your projects all is ok.
Cheers,
Frank
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Hi Frank,
I was wondering if it would be practical or possible to paint in the patterns like on this plywood?
It may not be feasible in this scale. Just a question to challenge you. ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8CzxCjt/1a6f1035-78af-41c6-bd28-f317db86a515-1-bc769692e98a0bf5630069118745329a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Or maybe the wood paneling is not plywood?
-
Hmm, your example looks like pine plywood? The Austrians and Germans used mostly birch plywood, which shows much less structure. Thats why I think in 1/48 a very light grain is enough.
Arming
As we discussed the arming already some pages ago this prototype was unarmed. But I used in this project the fantastic Schwarzlose MGs made by Gaspatch Models. WTF ?!?
Ok, one step after another.
At first I made a pump from 7 brass, nickel silver and copper parts. The copper wire is 0.2mm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13qtO2WoMsNjhnlnDUXbfVIKVsMEB9QHB)
Now a frame from 0.7 and 0.6mm brass tube, for mounting a 0.4mm brass rod is inside.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13rcZFenHdT4p-RQm232eViH03I7XhTmv)
With the same principle some more tubes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wWZHnm2R8BE5DujdG8KRq6zPzQrIGK7f)
I soldered clamps and holders.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17Z-NXIni34wAs7Nl0uejZ152AmOGbv7g)
To put the clamps in place I used CA. The height is of course adjustable ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Xykg4bdPOsv2hjz9SCzlcJxosh2mjjHM)
To fill the huge opening of the fuselage I made a bullet storage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xBGJof5hy15-kGRKEg3uemItUo_WRvEO)
To fill a hole in the front I made a fake fuel tank from wood and brass (Eduard PE frame). Is this now fake news?
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_unzOAYuBtE-fgH3vDvrbW_Y1Vcn9LM2)
And all parts together! Now it's a busy cockpit.
In principle very common with the Aviatik D.I in the Museum in Vienna, but the picture of the 30.40 shows a middle strut.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Kzg7ypZCB0_3RZeoHH_kAbJ8Bu0YTQfP)
And why this effort?
As I said this bird was unarmed, but the pictures shows the mounts for the typical Schwarzlose MGs. So I could mount two of them.
The Gaspatch ones were a big help regarding size and fitting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13YjYjEP4WedmfwsuW0ke-aEFOO1848Ss)
And again in top view. The Schwarzlose MG is not fixed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xkYE-htMiegsUtlsnjWVVRSog8E7LdU2)
I must admit my AMS is incurable. But it is fun to see if I'm still able to handle such fine micro mechanics ;) It was a bit tricky to get all in the right size.
Can I close the fuselage or have I forgotten something else?
Cheers,
Frank
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Marvelous fiddly brass work and soldering, well done.
AMS is incurable - once you have it you can never rid yourself of it's grasp, only learn how to useit to your advantage. It took me a long time to come to terms. I finally realized that it was the journey that I savoured, the destination was far less important.
Embrace the journey, follow the twists, the turns, take the path less travelled. And, if you so happen to find yourself having reached your destination then relish that too.
cheers, Graham
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I agree with everything ColonelKrypton has written: scratch building is something wholly incurable so we might as well make the best of it.
As usual you are certainly making the best of it, and the best of models.
Stephen.
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Really outstanding work on the MG mount Frank! Incredible setail ans so small ;D
RAGIII
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More incredible details and precision so soon after the last update. You've been busy! I don't really know what AMS is but if it helps me build like this I hope I catch it soon! :)
Richie
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Very fine modeling, as usual Frank!
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Thank you Graham, Stephen, Rick, Richie and PrzemoL! Your comments are highly appreciated!
I don't really know what AMS is but if it helps me build like this I hope I catch it soon! :)
Richie, AMS stands for Advanced Modelling Syndrome, so I always have to improve the kits and add my own parts.
Staying here in the forum exposes you to an extreme risk of infection!
The fuselage is closed now, but due to the exhibition in Austria there will be no progress this weekend.
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow! -amazing work on your cockpit, Frank - love your seat.
Regards
Dave
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Marvelous, but it won't be able to fly with that fake tank...
/Fredrik
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Very fine work there, Frank.
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Thank you Graham, Stephen, Rick, Richie and PrzemoL! Your comments are highly appreciated!
I don't really know what AMS is but if it helps me build like this I hope I catch it soon! :)
Richie, AMS stands for Advanced Modelling Syndrome, so I always have to improve the kits and add my own parts.
Staying here in the forum exposes you to an extreme risk of infection!
The fuselage is closed now, but due to the exhibition in Austria there will be no progress this weekend.
Cheers,
Frank
I clearly need to hang around the forum more in the hope of AMS infection!
Have fun at the model show.
Richie
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Thank you my friends!
Wooden undersurface
Today just a small update - as some of the users here have already seen it at the exhibition in Ried last weekend.
The lower surface of the fuselage was plated with 4 panels of wood veneer.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TQ6NtfE8GQGLLAdnGkVlkueVLY3iERl8)
After a lot of sanding and wood primer I drilled the holes for the (already prepared) undercarriage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ga02WmlLN8wn920jfy1IaoYARHFlklxl)
So that is the look, with cowling hold by UHU Tac.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hZHcs_6E4SPW_XqVg5qKB6y0xPNO36J0)
Finally the wood was painted and toned down. Sorry, my cam don't like it, it is not that red in real.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QI5peMuqirR173ScE2TymwWM7Vvgm_yX)
I think that was a good training to do it one day on wings and fuselage of a Lloyd ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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That is Beautiful woodwork Frank!
RAGIII
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Thank you Rick!
Today I have some questions!
Does anyone know Mike Franklin from Bellingham? The mail could not be delivered :(
Years ago he offered in ARC Forum, Aerodrome and WWI-models.org some TrueType fonts for WWI serials.
(see his posting here: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/169267-four-ww-1-aeroplane-fonts-available-here/)
It would be a big help to have that fonts for cutting masks.
- Is he still active? New mail?
- Did anyone get the fonts back then and can still make them available to me?
Is there another font available which matches the "30.40" in this picture?
(https://preview.ibb.co/nzEUVK/1faf77fb3130415acd1192bf1f0614dd.jpg)
Thank you very much for your help!
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Sorry to say, but Mike Franklin passed away in 2012. I had received some decals from him and was advised by his wife back then.
Kevin in Port Orchard, WA.
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Thank you Kevin!
Bad news, but his work is not lost.
I found with Google a link to our lovely forum, where the user Zabu (last active 2019) offered the fonts as Zip file in a posting from 2013:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2022.0
Unpack and installed them additionally as personal fonts (I'm using Linux), and after restart of Inkscape I can use them 8)
Problem solved!
Cheers,
Frank
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I did a very quick search earlier on after I had seen your first post but didn't find the link to this forum as you had. I did find a number of his postings on a couple of other forums however - he was an interesting person with many interests including teaching music and stringed instruments.
I have the noted file and will install. I can see that these fonts will be very useful. I don't yet have a cutter to cut masks but I will be able to use them to make decals.
cheers, Graham
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Great Graham, that the fonts are also useful for you! The fonts in the zip file seems to be an improved version.
I don't yet have a cutter to cut masks but I will be able to use them to make decals.
This depends on the size. If the size is very small it is not possible to cut masks, so decals are the better option in this case.
Now I need to select two out of 50 shades of grey ;D
Cheers,
Frank
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Grey
During research in Austria it was detected, that Aviatik used two grey shades. The paints are known in the RAL numbering.
I have this drawing as original print, it is darker and not that blue tint as in this scan.
(https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=853785&d=1375397317)
Source: rcuniverse.com
But:
- I don't have those RAL greys (they are available in Germany from a railway modeling company)
- it was a bit to dark. On the drawing the black serial is very hard to read on the fuselage, on the pictures of the 30.40 the serial is better readable also on the dark painted part.
So I had to select two other tones of my available (not 50) greys.
At the beginning I used some Alclad Canadian grey as brighter grey, but after painting the model I do not like the shade. I removed it with alcohol and start a more detailed research.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1afDGa6FKcw1LtWjajw4pIQV917p_XNE9)
Then I tried selected candidates in the airbrush and painted on styrene - don't like some candidates.
Finally I decided to go with Gunze H337 and H333. At first the bright grey and after a day drying time I applied self cat masks (electronic plotter) and airbrushed the dark grey.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1j7bOp-f022byUrmlxR7_7IOai6oCPG_G)
That is the result. Sorry, it is hard to show the real grey. I like it now. Both colour tones seems to harmonise somehow.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pXs234KbACinGpGhYV9PDrJVp1LKiUST)
The fuselage was at the same state, but during removing the first try the primer was no more ok. So had to prime it again, sand and applied only the bright grey until now.
As so often, two steps forward, one step back.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Fuselage
To protect the wood it was masked, also the cockpit. Then primer, sanding, primer, brighter grey.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rUl6n7bcQFu6FoKrwXTwAbODGzxDVO8Z)
After 24 hours I masked the fuselage and airbrushed the dark grey. Nice contrast after unmasking.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1C9Sqot2yEsHjG--nqkpvXBoMW5puwxaf)
Again:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1REQPZVnNNw1FYwIkmvB5DuEYH24W4d4u)
At least the real wood looks like the drawing, the linen is ok and the grey tones was discussed already.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UA2fSnwXB7VFmO7-3oz0J9NNAyRYTnjI)
For the struts I squeezed brass tubes, soldered pins into them and created the N-struts in wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xAeX59wPeHgZ71tRBqGOhhBnf_sdvCC1)
The N-struts are really filigree on drawings and photos, I guess the resin ones have to be that thick to be able to hold the wing. The soldered connections are cleaned and polished further.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Nx7lQPmSkK6OcMVcOOlYqxH3dN9MAjk2)
The N-struts and the undercarriage are primed and also painted in the dark grey.
Only the outer struts are not yet done, but I need to get the size on the real model later. The N-struts alone are able to hold the wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1e8pu6LRWI8fvu1mOOdP-lo7QQaKqQf5M)
I also applied the self cut masks for the crosses and painted black using MRP NATO Black, which is a broken black.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1H6cDZIHrDZmroweBk3VhLQ558kgRRLYj)
And why masks? The decals are old, had already a bad experience with that printer, the white border was to small according to the photos and - the main reason - the decal crosses are too small!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vw1vbKirTojIV-og8a4OX0J75-eyrWN7)
The wing. I used MRP Insignia White, which is a broken white. But it covers not very good, next time I will start with a thin layer white and add Insignia White on top.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12p2Spf8y-XDM8tfCN9O37aRrx2gT5YBW)
And as final picture the fuselage and the wing together, forgot the painted tailplane (other update) on the picture.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CJXBaJCA1LUAs2TRJsTnl4C-tvtBa77q)
EDIT:
I could not resist to plug all temporarily together, for two teaser pictures 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ApXhEDGBuZ6gukZegPpgX1KELUm2loqe)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JgWMm_tBH_7ClD3M-uecaqHsI8nFhUEw)
So far so good - but still a lot of work in front of me!
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
As always, very nicely done. That is a very interesting colour scheme, the greys and the ragged edges; very well executed.
Colour and the way we see it is interesting. Our eyes have rods and cones, the rods detect colours (my attempt at a very simplified description). See here for a good intro on the subject: https://www.pantone.com/articles/color-fundamentals/how-do-we-see-color (https://www.pantone.com/articles/color-fundamentals/how-do-we-see-color) )
Over the years I have worked at a number of airports and their towers and have spent many (many) hours happily observing aeroplanes arrive and depart. Something I noted very early on was that no matter what pretty colour an aeroplane was close up, it faded into little more than a grey spot when observed at a distance.
Nature hates straight lines and regular shapes. Anything that disrupts what we see, be it changes in shape or colour will work to camouflage.
cheers, Graham
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Awesome updates Frank. The camo is really impressive as are the painted markings and the struts!
RAGIII
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More superb work Frank. Your painting skills are an equal to your soldering/woodworking/turning/super-detailing skills . An all round master-modeller.
Stephen.
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Thank you Graham, Rick and Stephen!
Sorry Stephen, my painting skills are my worst capabilities. I still need to learn much here. This causes often more effort then needed, because I need to fix those mistakes and little accidents.
And my photos do not show all 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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my painting skills are my worst capabilities. I still need to learn much here.
Well, Frank, I have seen many of your models, and the paintwork was really impeccable.
Apart from that, the quality you deliver here again is top-notch.
Best, Karl
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Lovely plane and beautiful construction !
Best
Cedric
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Great progress, Frank!
Andreas
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Lovely scheme, beautiful details, going to be another scaled real plane. I knew austrian overpainted their printed fabric in two solid colours, following the hexagonal grid profile, but I didn't know the right shades. Really looks decades ahead in gray.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Hi Frank!
Great progress! I have no idea if your chosen greys are correct but they do look nice. And good work on those masks, as well.
Take care
Fredrik
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Love the scheme you have chosen Frank , the greys look fantastic together
Alexis
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Always very impressive. I am still suprised how it is able for to build the actual kit more fascinating than the model before.
Bye,
Manni
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As Stephen has said Frank, all of the "Master Modeller" skill levels are again (still? always? consistently?) present in this little beauty! Very impressive work and so enjoyable to follow along.
Cheers,
Lance
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Wow, I really impressed by so much feedback. Thank you to all of you my friends!
I have no idea if your chosen greys are correct but they do look nice.
The RAL references of the Berg D.I looks so dark, on this plane the contrast to the black serial was higher. So may be the used different grey tones? We will may be never know.
And yes, for me my model should look nice 8)
I am still suprised how it is able for to build the actual kit more fascinating than the model before.
Manni, I try to learn and improve with every model. This way, the beloved hobby does not become boring. :P
As Stephen has said Frank, all of the "Master Modeller" skill levels are again (still? always? consistently?) present in this little beauty!
What is the difference between a normal and a good modeller? Both make mistakes, but one is better at fixing them ;D ;D
Very impressive work and so enjoyable to follow along.
Lance, for your enjoyment I try to prepare another update ;)
Cheers,
Frank
-
Aluminium
Now the promised update - please fasten your seatbelts!
I started to prepare the outer struts, made from squeezed 1.4mm brass tube and 0.5mm brass pins.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BfdhN6G4rJNTpWGelgxyhHEgGJYqWITU)
But then I noticed I should work on the remaining alu parts for the front first!
I made an aluminium plate (a little thicker this time) which fits into the cowling. So this will be the firewall to the engine and it can carry the cowling.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1M8FgyNmFVjQg9X7Eokcv0Kbqly0gRq2C)
The firewall is glued in place! Very careful work was needed due to tight fit, but with engine and cowling in place (not fixed yet) it is able to rotate.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lQmtuvk3VXsV9inb1lBxSw4LQtDv6Keo)
Next the "ears".
The resin ones are 0.7mm thick, I wanted thinner ones made from aluminium of course to be able to polish them too. My grill tray aluminium was to thin, the thicker one not strong enough for polishing and other work steps.
Solution: turned again 0.3mm thin on the lathe, in same outer diameter as the cowling, and used segments of it.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rM0-rFU-Za6gvfWbOsr8yY6rK15UflqS)
But how to mount?
Only on the upper edge is a connection to the fuselage (open on lower side and on the back), glue to the cowling will not work as aluminium is hard to glue.
Solution: I drill a little hole and inserted a bow of a small nickel-silver stripe in. Also on the original pictures in high-res you can see something like that.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XichynbjHbRTnYgJEcTQWfGECX8EhKNh)
This will give the ear a solid mount later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16MeGszWqxzMCPROTEGssuOrDcHfD3jXx)
This bird has some strange maintenance lids - they are cooling vents at the same time, open at the back.
So I experimented a bit to create such lids.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ATXDKAIfjE4_k4wb33qwE71SUTHk90st)
The other side needs even two!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FN8hMGytjYWydUNEA88XZpHgf4xjv7wG)
Here a original picture from rcuniverse.com:
(https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1269489&d=1375479038)
Both sides are done.
As CA do not hold aluminium very tight, I added the quick locks made from 0.3mm brass rod. I used the holes to glue the lids with CA from the back.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QpkOMVQ-MiKt0ymfjkShLlFXMEs1sf0_)
I glued polished aluminium triangles to the fuselage sides. On top is the ear, still without glue.
I should have removed the little frame on the fuselage, now it's too late for that.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12MdUVC4sMQzvF9MCci88T8rbD-J3h3UQ)
That was a lot of experimenting and work with metal, but I like the look now.
Cheers,
Frank
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Super metal work Frank. Your detailing in metal takes this model to a completely different level, (one that I for one can only dream about).
Stephen.
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Absolutely stunning!
At some point I would like to get my self a lathe... Your use of it is really inspiring.
Cheers Fredrik
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Frank,
Very nicely done metal work. I had spent about 20 minutes reviewing the pictures and your description in order to take it all in.
cheers, Graham
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Amazing work Frank!
RAGIII
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Fascinating work as usual. You are preparing yourself for another Austrian Gold medal, don’t you? ;)
Andreas
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Thank you Stephen, Fredrik, Graham, Rick and Andreas for taking your time to answer!
Your detailing in metal takes this model to a completely different level.
That is also what I've heard recently in Austria "What, you're taking part in the contest? That's unfair! You belong in a category of your own!" 8)
At some point I would like to get my self a lathe...
Fredrik, feel free - but be very careful! That is a really a dangerous tool and can create strong forces.
I had spent about 20 minutes reviewing the pictures and your description in order to take it all in.
Graham, I think I need longer to take pictures, do the image processing, uploading and writing the description.
Thank you for appreciating it so much!
You are preparing yourself for another Austrian Gold medal, don’t you? ;)
Hmm. I think I would use next time the Sopwith Triplane (or CSM Dolpin?) and the Halberstadt ???
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Frank
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Tailskid
May be you have noticed in the last updates some little holes in the side panels. Here are the intake pipes missing. They have a special shape, so I failed to bend them using brass and copper tubes, even with using heat.
A friend gave me some leftover gold-plated electronic parts a long time ago with the words "As a model builder, you might be able to use them someday."
Someday was now and below the gold was brass. After the modification I tinned them.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Kt9U6WRHGvsohOwD0oGSTNvw4VcqAFuy)
The holes in the panels are now big enough and the intakes have used color by chemical browned.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hm8UNAVbH50-Y0AVVUQO-EbKY4rSlCYD)
I wanted to mount the aluminium parts, but the work on the tail is easier with the model on the nose so the tail skid first.
Aviatik used some special construction covered with thin wood, as shown on rcuniverse.com.
(https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1050176&d=1375425399)
I made this as wooden block from a piece of cherry wood, but my first try was to flat (the left one), so a second try. The skid are two layers of veneer, with additional two layers on the end.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Iw3uOhuGiBPcQ2yEFox-M2gnwFJSmnN1)
Again some metal work. The rod is 0.6mm nickel silver, a tinned brass piece, an U-shape made form 0.1mm nickel silver (PE fret leftover by CSM) and a 0.33mm rod through the skid.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-SlYrExGwuwdFmMVnQ6g60CrfJr-PWTN)
Theoretically it could steer, but I use the rod for secure mounting and glue it into a hole of the fuselage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JUMM5-Xm9qUCUFnvph3zM4Z5z_HBRGLS)
Dry fitting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17rq0ZTnVAFDbpkiu2qeuOLmK1EXxXxkJ)
After some wood primer I put some small drops and strips of masking fluid and painted the wood dark gray. Masking removed to show a bit of wood - artistic freedom ;)
The size of the kit resin part is not bad ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IOYSmbO-EFI07TXNCKnRgHcT6JBh2p_0)
.. it is much to flat, as shown here.
My skid is glued in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pDHp3xwKwY2kOEHx85ihDgmL3WKsGOE3)
I'm very happy with the outcome. After I saw some pictures and plans of Aviatik planes and a high-res picture of the 30.40 I had to do it.
Now I need to add the suspension. This have to hold the fuselage as the skid rotates under load now.
Cheers,
Frank
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This is lovely work Frank
Alan
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Thank you Alan!
The tailskid is now also equipped with the suspension, which I will show in the next update.
Cheers,
Frank
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Astonishing work as always on the tail skid FRank!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick!
Aluminium
As mentioned the suspension of the tailskid was missing.
The mounts are a nickel-silver sheet angles, bolted with rod. The "rubber" is hold by a rod, with a sheet soldered on top. The rubber lines itself are stretched sprue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Uhn6JpjDhnEEe_8QbrzIj_mGNag7o0sF)
A (not very sharp) view from below.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gJGluikbJ9ekz8As6pm1JiYhjpMyF0fo)
The model is hold safely now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dirCb0TwfAEBUavm8nFG4ifvsIYYvhKB)
Now back to the front!
I mounted the rotary engine. The last missing cutouts on the cowling are done and the cowling protects now the engine. After that the side panels and intakes from the last update are in their final position now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qhsQw6EktO_DUOOvoR6jrAPkZuv59cHN)
The top panel was already prepared in a raw shape but now finalized in size and with cutouts for the N-struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LDImHVyhQPWCP3qf747fN5wFJOGrMTXd)
And also this panel is mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Vpmvsr9ay8ZhdIvN_qxotMHK6iWJNTXR)
I love to mount all the prepared parts, so I secured also the undercarriage and the N-struts with CA.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wRf2DNbjfjWSjrPv3UlxF082iLX68hOg)
As often I drilled holes in PE frets, cut it in pieces, solder it on a strong piano wire and turn identical washers on the lathe. It is always a good idea to make some for the carpet monster.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jZLPskqJzmnn25W20rUWJSpkzGALcQuR)
The washers are soldered on the axle tube.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dA0xgLZi8WQz8yE3gyGQx3f0T4RDf-ae)
The cockpit cushion is also painted black leather.
And now with the plugged on axle and airscrew a little teaser: what a lovely little bird!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mRysfzQA0syXJoEadweBqftXyRlsyICT)
After painting the axle I can mount it with adding the suspension as next step.
Cheers,
Frank
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Oh, Frank! That is just exquisite! Some really intricate and detailed modelling going on with great detail and a real appreciation of the genuine materials used... I am in awe... Regards, Marc
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Oh, Frank! That is just exquisite! Some really intricate and detailed modelling going on with great detail and a real appreciation of the genuine materials used... I am in awe... Regards, Marc
I can't say it any Better so will just Dito Marc!
RAGIII
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Thank you Marc and Rick, for those wonderful comment! This is the right kind of fuel to keep the thread steaming along 👍
It is important not to lose focus (with the next project in mind), because it is now definitely clear what the next project will be. Bets are accepted! 😉
To make sure I didn't forget anything, I wrote everything down on a ToDo list and ended up with a full A4 sheet!
I have also a question:
There is no front picture of the 30.40, but of the sister 30.27 with same engine, and I guess same airscrew. On the picture of the 30.40 from the back there is a dark band on the back of the airscrew. The front picture of the 30.27 shows this band too outside the cowling and a second one more center.
My color interpretation is red/white as Austrian colors. Anything against this assumption?
(https://preview.ibb.co/kg8jr9/IMG_20181009_113938.jpg)
Cheers,
Frank
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I've been out of town and just now catching up on things. Your engine turning treatment of the aluminum parts is very convincing and, as usual, your detailed metal work is superb. This will be a triumph of engineering and model making! Bravo!
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'This is the right kind of fuel' I notice another type of fuel you use is beer, the bottle top gives it away. I use these alot myself, it is nice to see someone else doing the same. I would agree that the two bands are white and red judging by the surrounding colours which we know. Red is of course dark in B&W and the lighter band is so light it could be missed.
Amazing job so far and I will try and copy what you did with the axle.
Alan.
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Frank,
As usual with your projects, Just absolutely superb work! A really great WWI Modeller once told me "whenever possible use the real materials for your parts and additions". He should know, he is a former "Michael Fitz Award" winner at the US Nationals! You take this concept to the ultimate level, it's a pleasure and education to follow your progress.
Regards,
Lance
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Thank you Marc and Rick, for those wonderful comment! This is the right kind of fuel to keep the thread steaming along 👍
It is important not to lose focus (with the next project in mind), because it is now definitely clear what the next project will be. Bets are accepted! 😉
Without just a gleam of a doubt it will be a Bf-109. come on, be honest to us, you know it and I know it… ;D
Andreas
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Outstanding metal and wood works, ever surprising.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Lost for words on the amazing quality of your work on the metal cowling and wood tailskid ............
Regards
Dave
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I too have been away and in the meantime more of your magic has been posted. I still find it difficult to grasp just how small many of these parts are - which make them all the more incredible.
Stephen.
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Thank you Ken, Alan, Lance, Andreas, Giuseppe, Dave and Stephen for your more then kind words!
I notice another type of fuel you use is beer, the bottle top gives it away.
Yes Alan, but I drink in moderation, not every day.
I would agree that the two bands are white and red judging by the surrounding colours which we know. Red is of course dark in B&W and the lighter band is so light it could be missed.
Thank you for the confirmation!
I will try and copy what you did with the axle.
.. which is mounted now with suspension on the undercarriage :)
You take this concept to the ultimate level
(https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/meister.gif)
Without just a gleam of a doubt it will be a Bf-109. come on, be honest to us, you know it and I know it… ;D
You can tease all you want, it's not going to happen.
I have to admit I have a 109 kit in my stash, but it's a rare Royal kit for investment only, not for building. 8)
I still find it difficult to grasp just how small many of these parts are
Not only the parts Stephen, the whole bird is small. If I remember I will a picture on my hand the next days.
Cheers,
Frank
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Outstanding Frank! This looks so beautiful. As you mentioned, I think the colors are red and white as the flag of the k.u.k. Luftfahrttruppen used to be.
Bye,
Manni
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Thank you for the confirmation Manni!
Filler caps
After painting the axle I mounted it with the suspension to the undercarriage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kMekqZ1sjOpzA2BX5IaxvZBI5cGepo82)
Now the bird can really stand on his wheels for test, the "rubber lines" can hold it.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11gIqlzvz3sa3uRTo8EAPgTII0jg21qFl)
I finalized the length of the outer struts, ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1axxCZp3yI8ec-FSAFdY4MDoqDD5SeH0W)
... tinned and primed them, ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xGfH1o0VDJGC_ikaAnnr1sgsG6Kp_wWo)
... and painted dark grey.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ocXckSD2TsHyFy1_ZR8f_JB3kV50hUC0)
I wanted to mount the wing, but it is always a good idea to check the references again. And yes, I discovered more forgotten details!
So I made two filler caps from brass.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZbEanmgIis_ztppX_HKGxsdGjifTUWmt)
This makes sense, as I added there the fuel tank. The second one seems to a the oil cap.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZomeVOvavxM4K8iwTVMbpkEVS1h9_fPH)
Another detail I noticed was a rope around the upper part of the cowling, starting in cut outs I already made before.
On the model it is a 0.15mm wire, hold by two Gaspatch anchor points. I hope you see it!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NzxJCSewqjd9EmIhjWP6p4-lfA5JoAmB)
Since the wing is already lying flat, I glued on a lacing right away. Here I used a piece of Eduard 1/72 lacing PE, which I bend to the shape of the engraving in the wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TSBJAU998NMlF3ZW5svSK0ZHIa3FOggk)
And finally I painted the bands on the airscrew. I primed a light coat of white before, but the read comes out darker as I wanted. For the white I used "Insignia white" which is a off white, but looks very bright in real. The Jaray logos are also applied.
I think I will add a layer of clear coat.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yZFnFF-oiYbD20UpUzGkWA4o82G-Q3er)
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Bravo, it just keeps getting better and better. I don't know how you will do better on your next project but I am sure you will find a way.
cheers, Graham
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Just beautiful! The only problem is of course that you keep upping our expectations... :D
I was just looking at the filler caps, or rather the stumps where they should have been, on my Camel, wondering how to better the details. Your caps are just gorgeous!
Cheers
Fredrik
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More magnificent modelling from the master...!
Stephen.
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Thank you Graham, Fredrik and Stephen!
I don't know how you will do better on your next project but I am sure you will find a way.
;D Sometimes I try to build out of the box, but I often fail to do so.
I was just looking at the filler caps, or rather the stumps where they should have been, on my Camel, wondering how to better the details. Your caps are just gorgeous!
That idea is stolen from many other of my projects. On one of my first planes, the Fokker E.V there was a oversized PE so this forced my to do new ones. So also many of the others later wants to have the brass too.
In mean time I got the answer regarding the bands:
- white band means that the factory is the owner, only for test flights. To be changes before delivery.
- red band means experimental one, not to used in series production
Both makes sense, as this was a prototype only, equipped with a new engine type.
Cheers,
Frank
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Gorgeous details.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Simply Stunning Frank! The colored bands do indeed make sense.
RAGIII
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The cowling and filler caps are absolutely sublime Frank. I am
running out of adjectives seeing your talents. Such a pleasure
to follow this build.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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I have to admit I have a 109 kit in my stash, …
I Got ya! ;D
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What you show here, Frank, is amazing. I am especially in awe with your metal work, starting from the machined alu sheets ending with the replacement struts. Just great!
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It is always a pleasure to read your wonderful comments Giuseppe, Rick, Ernie, Andreas and Przemek! Thanks!
Rigging
As during the last update I wanted to mount the wing - but stop: There was also a windshield!
I had to guess the shape because it was visible only in the side view. The drawing do not show it. So I cut a thing piece of clear foil, bent it in shape with heat and glued it in place with CA.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1egcFiitTezfdvFM-JpvSS_EH1PND_7BD)
A very small stripe cut from a PE frame has to act as frame to improve the adhesion, as the glue is not very strong on the foil and aluminium.
Unfortunately, some of the CA fume settled on the windscreen, but it was also on the real picture not very clean.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16MRvfqDfiRn6RkuyVywMdCw6QTKON53w)
But then I mounted the wing and started to do the rigging with Gaspatch turnbuckles type C, anchor points and wire loops.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16cqlX5sdwRQmKmuwA3wpWtgiyi-sXd9j)
The rigging of the inner struts was more tricky.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JLkPFRNWeh-69-J2_YeA6QQ8Zc3A-f2M)
I found no confirmation in my references, but in my eyes it makes sense and I added a aluminium panel to the lower surface, up to the point where the side panels ends.
In opposite to that the cross on the back of the undercarriage is visible on the side picture of the real one.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10jSOc-QJV4DIXadWpWiy4yqjgYPHyVQ5)
There is also a cross in the front of the undercarriage. Both crosses uses Gaspatch turnbuckles type One End.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gSiES7iyzFEMYCA7MwAlQq8iL8suD6kN)
These are photos from below, so I'll also show the open construction of the side panels. You can see the cylinders of the engine with the naked eye. So oil and cooling air can go out on the back and lower side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1s5JzanBQCOEQtdpZyAdaQExuEbAmpwKk)
On the back side of the airscrew you can see the bolt heads on the hub.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eZ1ckI2e7aJ_ir0XGdkZuat-yGVssVEN)
On the front I added 0.2mm bolts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qBay9-n3LWMUjVbMejRaBppyTuAPvI5t)
In case anyone was wondering about the high-legged undercarriage: this picture clearly shows why it was necessary. The powerful 11-cylinder with its 160 hp needed a large airscrew to get this power into the air.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FXal-Czg52HkSGIHcKyWdc9g3Z24ov3L)
I straightened the warped wing at the beginning with hot water, but it had bent again a bit and left the outer wings hanging. So I had adjusted the outer struts to push the wing up. Inserting the struts was not so easy.
But now I am super happy with the result!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1C7aIofTtcM-qYuJIFN_UpAFHPzYqYQjf)
So that is the actual state. I used some grey ground to show the rigging.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1U9CS9FQ48PK5Orz5rxi7L7uF4Wz8Mc9A)
Another important steps done.
Cheers,
Frank
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Good work! Very tidy and precise in all aspects! Apart from the gorgeous filler caps, I find that the small fasteners really add to the overall impression (although they are a bit out of focus, so maybe they aren't fasteners at all?).
I'm guessing you're using monofilament for the rigging, but what diameter?
/Fredrik
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Very clean work, Frank. I like the picture where you are holding the model - showing just how small it is!
-
As usual the rigging is Exceptional...just like all of the other details!
RAGIII
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Thank you Fredrik, Ken and Rick!
I'm guessing you're using monofilament for the rigging, but what diameter?
No, it is some "rubber line". The product is called "Rig that thing", but I don't know the size anymore. I guess it is "Standard" or "normal".
It is on a little metal spool without description and I lost the bag. I'm still using it after lot's of my models.
Only on the British planes with RAF wires I use "EZ-Line" because it is more flat. And for models, which need functional rigging, e.g. monoplanes, I use fishing line.
I like the picture where you are holding the model - showing just how small it is!
It is not only small because of the scale 1/48, also in comparison with other aircraft in that scale it is small and shows clearly it's character as "lightweight fighter".
Cheers,
Frank
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I am amazed with complet build, simply perfect. Nothing more to say.
Congratulations.
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These pictures could easily go for a model in 1:18 scale or even bigger. Fantastic job!
Andreas
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I'm guessing you're using monofilament for the rigging, but what diameter?
No, it is some "rubber line". The product is called "Rig that thing", but I don't know the size anymore. I guess it is "Standard" or "normal".
It is on a little metal spool without description and I lost the bag. I'm still using it after lot's of my models.
Only on the British planes with RAF wires I use "EZ-Line" because it is more flat. And for models, which need functional rigging, e.g. monoplanes, I use fishing line.
Aha... something similar to the Uschi variant possibly. Thanks anyway! Looks great!
/F
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Top notch so far Frank !
Alexis
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Frank!
Your ability to create these details at this scale is frankly humbling!
I am super impressed!
Cheers,
Hugh
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I second that. I cannot believe that detail and quality of finnish on a plane that small.
Alan
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Wow, that is an impressive kind of feedback! Thank you very much my friends! (https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/meister.gif)
Congratulations.
Not yet, Pedja, not yet! This aircraft is not yet finished ...
These pictures could easily go for a model in 1:18 scale or even bigger.
Andreas, that is much bigger as WNW - in 1:18 it would fly 8)
Top notch so far Frank !
Alexis, nice to read from you again! Your new job seems to keep you busy.
Your ability to create these details at this scale is frankly humbling!
I second that. I cannot believe that detail and quality of finnish on a plane that small.
Hugh and Alan, your applause pushes me to the limit (and carries me beyond)!
Cheers,
Frank
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Accident!
Let's start a new update with a size comparison in my hand.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tzl2FYL_-21KmZ1G90H1ToeJPyew5ixj)
The front and wing are nearly done so I continued on the tail.
Here I drilled into the fuselage and added 0.4mm brass pipes as control wire outlets (the "patches " are not yet painted).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EBtYiwACw6aSovU5jqQBe6t18v9GN-c_)
The kit do not contain control horns, so I used a stripe from a PE fret to make my own. The sizes are different.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18_5mLVEycMZU25xxuoeJmt5iEotFV4xp)
The horns had a special shape so I made them thicker by soldering. The ones for the tail also get Gaspatch turnbuckles.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tmDkVaLk94dS3dARjgNZk-sQC6kWpFEk)
I noticed on the picture that also on the ailerons the wire to not go directly to the horn but to an additional movable element, so I added that too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YJo9kOZncdM9dMhi3vD2Uyti9ulcKpV_)
So I could mount the ailerons and connect the control wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MFQbtfQYdXIz3gfhP13ZFN2xj7EZTIV8)
The tailplane was added and the control wires added, from the outlets to the turnbuckles.
Another feature: please note the white arrows (decals from another kit).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lpw-hEYplMycsKV71kDvA98XsF9UO2LF)
The arrows shows the mechanics the brass drain pipes, which should be clean and open. This was a wooden fuselage and these had problems with condensation water. As the back part is closed here are outlets. The OEFFAG Albatros used much more outlets (the arrows are in the Eduard kit, but the outlets are not mentioned).
The controls wires on lower side are also shown.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fLqFIk7zfG-L87voQhc1nA97Lv6wWXkd)
Now to the accident of the headline!
I wanted to mask the rudder to airbrush the crosses, but here you can see the yellow resin!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TkGzvJ_i6rxIsceh_ZdO7_vIY0aois8Y)
To avoid another loop I made a new rudder from polystyrene.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nNKB73rdeggA_z7lcXwnABVJCAtX-9i4)
The mount points prepared already so it fits. Now it is primed with my trusty Alclad primer (bites into plastic), painted grey and it drying now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_1P96a2qlHEaiCpOfN81XURxaGMeOHTW)
I continued on the wheels. Masked, sanded, primed, sanded, painted a dark grey Gunze H83 (a different shade as on the fuselage), and finally flat clear coat.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LBBfa8CmieLcyVl9LUt_v7yICFtV5NeG)
On the pictures the rims looks black painted, but the contrast was a bit high. So I brush painted the rims with Revell anthracite (the paint is a bit old, so not perfect).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17S6O_u2kF_Rgu0XIeZTc1trVggaC9QZi)
The wheels are mounted now:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1y4kQ3lnoZmDuBksR4GR8rJbkdhVUFBoY)
That's all for today.
Cheers,
Frank
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You Had Me concerned with your headline Frank! I pictured one of My type of Accidents ;D Your New rudder and all of the other New details look perfect as always!
RAGIII
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I've come into this late through not being aware of the aircraft type but I'm blown away. The turned aluminium on the cowling, the filler caps, the beautiful propeller, and being startled by the size of the model (having forgotten the scale). Wow.
I'm glad the accident was something fixable, thats good news. I was bracing for the worst!
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In all this update must be considered a success and your disaster a small mishap, I think. 😀
I continue to marvel at the preciseness of your work given the small size! Those control horns must be tiny and still you manage to produce your own.
/Fredrik
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Thank you Rick, Zac and Fredrik!
The almost finished aircraft also fascinates me, I always enjoy looking at it from all angles. It feels a bit like getting a new toy as a little boy. Don't we all build our planes a little bit for that reason?
The second attempt of masking with new cut masks on the new rudder was successful 8)
Those control horns must be tiny and still you manage to produce your own.
Fredrik, the self made "going-through-the-control-surface" type control horns are easier to handle for me then single ones with a pin (like often on PE provided). If I drill a hole and glue one side in, then I remove it again with inserting the other for the other side.
Now I made a thin cut with a etched saw, slide the control horn in, adjust the position and secure it with CA. Done.
Cheers,
Frank
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The almost finished aircraft also fascinates me, I always enjoy looking at it from all angles. It feels a bit like getting a new toy as a little boy. Don't we all build our planes a little bit for that reason?
That comment gave me a big smile. I totally agree!
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It is such a gift you have Frank...thank you for sharing it with us.
There are so many amazing bits of excellence that it is hard to pick
one over another! What an enjoyable example of what can be done in miniature.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hi Frank,
Just catching up, you scared me with that headline! The accident seems it was another opportunity to show another of your many skills by making a perfect new rudder. I will remember that next time I destroy a part!
The build has come along beautifully in my absence. With those wonderful little control horns you are showing us watchmaker skill levels!
Richie
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Thank you Ernie and Richie! Such nice comments are highly appreciated!
Finish
After the grey on the rudder was dry I used new masks to paint the very little crosses.
Here the inner part is black, removing the small line for white.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lhDEvoEwgFnPs5Acq_RsoWyUNabgqUID)
That is ok so far, I have cleaned the masking/paint borders after the picture. It touches the limit, what is possible with the plotter.
But the engineers at Aviatik was very friendly to the modelers more then 100 years later: dark grey on the fin, the other grey on the rudder only and the cross not over fin and rudder!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TgWMGaW8-VPxPjpP56iiMMpQFn_0g7F4)
I started the weathering with little oil paint dots, then added oil and pastels. More later in the completed section.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11r4cOKlVVTm9IKqCTk8IlCom-oS8wU2G)
So this little Aviatik fighter is finished and this build report ends now. Thank you for accompanying us on this journey! I was very pleased that many of the visitors had the time to comment.
As soon as the final shots are taken, I will add them to the "Completed" section.
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful. In all aspects.
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Thanks for sharing this build, Frank. Superb engineering - again. Looking forward to seeing the completed pictures.
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That rudder looks good as new, bravo!
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So glad I checked in to see your model over the finish line. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed section photos. Always fun to follow a Bughunter build! :)
Richie
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Speechless. This is so cool. Chapeau for your skills.
Manni
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Lovely build Frank! More comments in the completed Models section !
RAGIII
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Thank you for your nice words! This makes me smile!
Please see the final pictures here in the Completed section:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12674.0
Cheers,
Frank
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Catching up Frank: I am away for a couple of days and you complete yet another stunning model. I will post more later when I have had a chance to visit the completed models section.
Stephen.
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Wow! I just started work converting a Nieuport 16 into one of these things. Looking at your model... I feel like I should have scratch built it. What a beauty! Very inspiring. I'm going to save this entire thread as a build guide for me!