forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on January 09, 2021, 07:08:52 AM
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Halberstadt Cl.II
To avoid my mojo going completely down, I decided to put the Ansaldo aside (I just don't know how to solve some problems yet) and try an (almost) out-of-the-box build.
Ok, the candidate come in my mind was a Halberstadt Cl.II
The company "Halberstaedter Flugzeugwerke" was located in Halberstadt, a city in the German state Saxony-Anhalt. And I have friends in Saxony-Anhalt ;)
In my stash there is a kit made by Mirage in 1/48:
(https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/8/8/9/106889-10000-pristine.jpg)
It is very complete, with a lot of plastic parts, PE, decals, printed foil for instruments.
As references I can use two Windsock Datafiles:
(https://www.scalemates.com/books/img/6/8/8/103688-10000-86-pristine.jpg)
(https://www.scalemates.com/books/img/6/8/9/103689-10000-58-pristine.jpg)
And also the manual of the bigger brother of this kit by WNW:
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v3C6C20EF/www/products/model_kitsets/32049/online_instructions/7132049%20Halberstadt%20Cl.II%20(Early)%20Instructions.pdf
I like to build the colorful marking of the "Schlachtstaffel 26b".
The big PE fret, which is made from thick 0.2mm brass.
Please not the full scale gun belts on the right!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1v-SScjt8uVZFD3Yo-luh_QYL_U7W_-01)
The kit has very thick sprue gates with tight placement (see left/low of the Cent) - no chance for a cutter. A resin saw is useful!
Some parts are broken, see up/left of the Cent.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pG7HOfOXCRmJnialjWRN4EBIlAcZHRQ4)
The sprue gates goes into the parts, which are itself nice, so this needs a lot of cleaning effort! See part 24, or the gun on top.
Sometimes you also don't know, where the parts ends and the sprue gate starts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BSbHA1I7kzyHRYeJd40okZZh9UR4etiJ)
Should I do a build report anyway? It is effort and may be it is better to spend the time with working on the model.
This kit (at least a varinat) was already shown and so the interest is not that high and my finished model is enough?
Cheers,
Frank
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My VOTE is HELL YES as to doing a build log. Not only do your builds inspire but the techniques you display are a constant source of Learning!
RAGIII
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Build it Frank , don't worry about adding detail or even it the details are correct ...just built it and have fun !
Alexis
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Yes, please, share your valuable time between building and reporting. Every build thread is valuable! And yours are no exception. I have heard this kit is not easy but I am sure you will build a jewel model.
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Build it Frank , don't worry about adding detail or even it the details are correct ...just built it and have fun !
Alexis
+1
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Er... obviously Frank!
Can’t wait.
Guy
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Ok, talk me over!
Fuel tank
It looks like, that I can't do oob because I'm lazy ???
I started to prepare and paint parts for the cockpit of this two seater.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fnCZOEafIhAlocwdPxtNk5mFTg3urPXQ)
There was also a tank, but made from six parts with bad fit! The WNW kit has one piece ...
I don't want to clean those seams, checked the colored museums pictures. Ah, the tank was soldered!
Sanded a piece of light wood on my small disc sander quickly into shape and put a stripe of thin brass foil around.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18lFv8JX1RfwE1Qh2zQ3T_Nyz2WJQQmrl)
The side walls are remains of Eduard PE. Soldered to it and removed the overlap.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AOABVdmZtKck8AaUFS_QUTBq2Jw6ZTf3)
After checking pictures of the WNW sprues I added two bands around and also Filler and outlet from brass with a copper wire. Much nicer compared to the kit parts and don't need to be painted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IJH3OfA0R1AnCPdElwO6Rr0Jc9PYkKot)
For a used look, you can dent the tank with your fingernail ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1crTdB873SAexZrrThrD7Rc5TJWCwv4es)
The lower side is not nice, but it will be the glue surface.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tP_R5ZeCZTUUOesxlglV9v0Fa-QO8tpt)
A quick dry fit (nothing glued) with the kit cockpit. The nice wooden side walls are kit PE.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UqR79B10xEYIH66R1be9q8-12nURMxQP)
All the parts on the frame are finally mounted and test fitted to a fuselage halve.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16LA9AaxBQB_3sjsv5pMHN3RjZTon7GaC)
For the painting I followed the WNW manual.
I have heard this kit is not easy
Oh yes! The kit is nice so far, but requires a lot of careful dry fitting. I think I will replace the (partly broken) struts by metal, as done on another build I found in the net.
Cheers,
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Thats the first time i’ve read “can't build out of box because I’m lazy” lol.
Nice progress. I have this model in my stash somewhere. So this is a really useful build log.
Ray
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Off to a good start Frank :)
Alexis
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Superb work on the interior Frank! The fuel tank is your usual Magic 8) Everything looks great in the test fit.
RAGIII
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A good start, Frank. Just have a good time building this. Detail what you want to. I can't build OOB either. A shortened build log would be nice - so we can see and learn something.
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Yeah, the best looking airplane of WWI, Frank, give it a go! However I have that one in my stash and built the WNW kit once and I am sure the WNW is the easier one. But you‘ll manage it!
Did you already choose the markings?
Andreas
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Thank you Ray, Alexis, Rick, Ken and Andreas!
Thats the first time i’ve read “can't build out of box because I’m lazy” lol.
I hate to clean up little plastic parts, fill with putty, sand and paint them, which are breaking later >:(
So it is for me really easier to do it right immediately. Often I use this "improvement by accident", like with my last build Fokker D.V. I thought about replacing the undercarriage with a metal one. But decided to go with the kit thing. After all the spend effort with painting I break it during mounting >:( So it is often less effort to do it right from the beginning.
Nice progress. I have this model in my stash somewhere. So this is a really useful build log.
What I also start to hate is the manual! It is somehow nice, with color photos of the real machine and so on, but it is only A5 and is somehow overloaded with infos. There are also bugs in the drawings and not all plastic or PE parts are mentioned. So you need to work very careful to not overlook something.
However I ... built the WNW kit once
Yeah, and what a beauty! Had already a look for your build report to see, how things should look like.
Did you already choose the markings?
Yes, the Schlasta 26b with the red nose, not with a 4 on the sides as yours but a 3. It is the 14227/17, and there is a complete page colored profile of that bird by Ronny Bar in the Datafile 157 which I will use of course.
Cheers,
Frank
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What a beautiful start to your build, Frank. Very impressive work. I'm enjoying your progress in a big way.
Cheers,
Gary
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Yes, the Schlasta 26b with the red nose, not with a 4 on the sides as yours but a 3. It is the 14227/17, and there is a complete page colored profile of that bird by Ronny Bar in the Datafile 157 which I will use of course.
Cheers,
Frank
I can’t say that I am very surprised — these red noses with the flames just look too cool! 8)
Andreas
P.S.: Schlasta 26b was finally disbanded here in Fürth Atzenhofen, home of FEA 2b! I have seen pictures of these red-flamed Halberstadts in the hangars that still exist today, converted into appartments...
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Great start and excellent choice of subject with the red flame nose.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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I like how you made the tank. Did you emboss the rivets with a needle or did you use a rivetwheel?
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Thank you Gary, Andreas, Giuseppe and Fvdm!
What a beautiful start to your build, Frank. Very impressive work. I'm enjoying your progress in a big way.
Your great feedback is highly appreciated! Such words are fuel for my motivation :-*
Great start and excellent choice of subject with the red flame nose.
There are decals for the rear part (red with white corner), but the front part needs to be painted. I hope to find a matching red or I will scan the decals to let my plotter cut masks from it. Let's see ...
Did you emboss the rivets with a needle or did you use a rivetwheel?
I have this nice set from RB Productions. There are some different wheels (also part of circles for corners) with different rivet distance included. Really pitty, that the shop is down due to/since Covid-19 :(
Cheers,
Frank
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What a lovely project, Frank! A great start and I doubt you'll ever do a kit out-of-the-box! I will be following closely! Regards, Marc.
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Thanks and welcome to this project Marc!
I think oob means for me still the usual improvements like metal struts as replacement for the broken kit one and a ...
Wooden air screw
The kit includes 3 plastic ones, shows the options during the build - but do NOT tell, which option has to be used for which marking. The WNW manual says Garuda. Ok, that is not the identical machine, but I will go with that.
I selected the kit one, which looks like the WNW Garuda as template for sanding.
Here the raw result, front:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DU2XKZyp2TITMuL0zQZYtWTeauv2V-2v)
Rear:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nmTCnAZdk4sDEz2x727BvcxXymfxIrkJ)
Matches nearly the template.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NuupTWYV0HWBWXqc-FermP33pRV5TnSS)
Decided to use the kit engine, which matches the size of the plans. I have a nice resin engine in stock, but it is bigger and I fear to much problems with that, e.g. panels and exhaust. So I put my low-friction bearing directly into the modified engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vfLKQhl83DEgCSBisD_PejluR7ToFvwM)
After closing I added also the single cylinders. Here the air screw is plugged on.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DyrX6rPyIGDiFn0Z4xwzclcAAn1B-FNI)
And the finally sanded (I found a pictures on my air screw books and used that for the layout of the layers), primed and painted the airscrew.
Will be toned down a bit with airbrush later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gFBElg19QSwcmO7tzVgCeXtNjMcsBz-M)
I tried a side view picture, to show the thin shape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1j1L1n9UuPmTCqTu_kOS4gfqskCbWEE3K)
Cheers,
Frank
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Your work is always inspiring Frank and this prop is No Exception! Gorgeous work and I must admit I am a bit jealous of your carving ability ;D
RAGIII
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Hi Frank!
How lucky that you are so easily influenced by others! Otherwise I/we would never have seen all of this (and coming) great work.
Looks great!
/Fredrik
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As the others said — truely inspiring. Fantastic work!
When it comes to the airscrews manufactor I wouldn’t be too critical. These airscrews were consumer items, not to say disposable items. The groundcrews used whatever was at hand. The most important thing was that the airscrew fit the engine (e. g. an airscrew made for 180 HP or 200 HP or 220 HP ...). That means an airplane could fly with an Axial this day and after breaking it fly with a Garuda the next day.
Andreas
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Excellent work on the air screw Frank :)
Alexis
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That is an amazing start. I really like the fuel tank. I have enough problems soldering 1/2" copper pipe, I can't imagine working on something that small.
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I'm a bit late in commenting Frank, but have to join in and compliment you on a beautiful start. As usual the most attractive features to my eye are your scratch built additions, the fuel tank is pure art and your prop tempts me to throw my examples into the driveway for the Garbage crew to collect, beautiful replication and finish! I'll be watching this one closely, and look forward to the Schlasta 26b finish!
Cheers,
Lance
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Your great motivating feedback is highly appreciated! Thank you Rick, Fredrik, Andreas, Alexis, Carl and Lance!
Gorgeous work and I must admit I am a bit jealous of your carving ability ;D
That's very nice of you to keep replying, even though you're a little jealous. :)
After many propellers I can say: practice makes perfect. Whereby each one is different again ::) A good picture is always very helpful!
Otherwise I/we would never have seen all of this (and coming) great work.
I will try to do my best, but the normal (more or less in this times) life is back. That means the progress will be slower :(
These airscrews were consumer items, not to say disposable items.
Really pity, that not many of those originals has survived. That would be a nice display object.
I had a color picture of a Garuda for a Mercedes, which was very helpful.
Excellent work on the air screw Frank :)
You are among the airscrew painters, right? From time to time I see models where I ask if that is real wood? No, that is painted. Ok, I can't do it like that, so I have to recreate them in wood.
I really like the fuel tank. I have enough problems soldering 1/2" copper pipe, I can't imagine working on something that small.
That soldering is my trademark! During my training as a telecommunications technician I was trained in soldering. Trained? No, drilled! Additional 40 year experiece helps a lot 8)
As usual the most attractive features to my eye are your scratch built additions, the fuel tank is pure art and your prop tempts me to throw my examples into the driveway for the Garbage crew to collect, beautiful replication and finish!
Lance, your wonderful comments always makes me smile. Thanks for that in these difficult times!
You don't need to hide with your propellers! Your bigger scale has its own challenges, my normal veneer would be to thin for example.
I hope to find some time for it soon!
Cheers,
Frank
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Hello Frank - I have to also comment on your propeller. It's amazing, and to know it's 1/48 scale makes it doubly amazing. Great work indeed!
Cheers,
Gary
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That prop is outstanding Frank!
I can only look on with envy ???
Guy
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When I see what you people can do with props I get very jealous.
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Hi Frank.
Great build. May I ask what thickness veneers did you use for the prop?
Cheers.
Andrew
Thanks and welcome to this project Marc!
I think oob means for me still the usual improvements like metal struts as replacement for the broken kit one and a ...
Wooden air screw
The kit includes 3 plastic ones, shows the options during the build - but do NOT tell, which option has to be used for which marking. The WNW manual says Garuda. Ok, that is not the identical machine, but I will go with that.
I selected the kit one, which looks like the WNW Garuda as template for sanding.
Here the raw result, front:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DU2XKZyp2TITMuL0zQZYtWTeauv2V-2v)
Rear:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nmTCnAZdk4sDEz2x727BvcxXymfxIrkJ)
Matches nearly the template.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NuupTWYV0HWBWXqc-FermP33pRV5TnSS)
Decided to use the kit engine, which matches the size of the plans. I have a nice resin engine in stock, but it is bigger and I fear to much problems with that, e.g. panels and exhaust. So I put my low-friction bearing directly into the modified engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vfLKQhl83DEgCSBisD_PejluR7ToFvwM)
After closing I added also the single cylinders. Here the air screw is plugged on.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DyrX6rPyIGDiFn0Z4xwzclcAAn1B-FNI)
And the finally sanded (I found a pictures on my air screw books and used that for the layout of the layers), primed and painted the airscrew.
Will be toned down a bit with airbrush later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gFBElg19QSwcmO7tzVgCeXtNjMcsBz-M)
I tried a side view picture, to show the thin shape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1j1L1n9UuPmTCqTu_kOS4gfqskCbWEE3K)
Cheers,
Frank
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i'm glad you're going ahead with this build, it's looking great so far and your build log will be a valuable resource for newcomers to the hobby like me
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Amazing as always Frank!
RAGIII
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Wow, so many comments - you seems to be really impressed by my air screw! It looks like I can start a business 8) But I think I'm to slow. I mean the time needed for one piece is to high ::)
Thank you Gary, Guy, Ferry, Andrew, Early Bird Fan and Rick!
Sorry Rick, I have not made something new, Andrew has only repeated my post.
Andrew, the thickness depends on the real airscrew. Here I counted 7 layers (4 dark and 3 brighter in between) and the plan shows a thickness of 2.9~3mm. So a single layer should have 0.43mm. I sanded the veneer down to that size. If it is a bit more it is ok, since the lowest and highest layer can be sanded more to get the right size.
i'm glad you're going ahead with this build, it's looking great so far and your build log will be a valuable resource for newcomers to the hobby like me
The kit is somehow very nice and on the other hand not easy. With my actual experience I would not recommend it to a newcomer! It requires a bit more care, a lot of dry fitting and some very filigree parts need special attention. A newcomer should start with a Eduard kit (if 1/48 is prefered) ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Really nice work on the prop, Frank! The engine is coming along too... Regards, Marc.
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Thanks Marc!
Undercarriage
Due to snow and ice on my roof window I can't airbrush, so I continued with metal work.
Some brass plates soldered on a piano wire and turned on lathe to washers.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1saapXhQMAiDbpnrYhuHADtVy6XWkQBJS)
The kit axle is according to the latest Datafile plans to thick, so I replaced it with 1.2mm piano wire and soldered the turned washers in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13ndzaGEdO0VWVu0gpvEsVKuaUMYQLUuF)
The kit undercarriage struts are very thin so together with the brittle plastic I don't trust them.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BwIWmsgmn8G7IBb2c5Z_gMlW8XNvfmMg)
So I soldered a new metal undercarriage! The wire on the picture simulates the suspension.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pxyRNMa1qYEzYttwAbqH7G-SyA6LFhW-)
After undercarriage after cleanup. The kits struts are to wide (2.1mm). I squeezed 1.3mm brass tube.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1X7fByeNFv1FEaKUgZrawthUmW-xaDu4Z)
There again with axle on top. The legs were also to long. I started with the kit size and shortened the legs on top, until the undercarriage sits according to the drawing. The pins to the fuselage are added after that.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MksCMkjrOHlOaq8P5nsrZiCuI83ioWzi)
The connection are 0.7mm nickel silver (kit part was broken already on the sprue. I let the pipe open, as on the museums aircraft.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1L1dzEJOfQV1joK_Wshpenm6kCKdi3GXz)
After tinning the new undercarriage looks nice and is totally strong!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cmecZEilzplX4G19o3UyXr0IuaTxprPC)
Apropos pins - the upper wings should be glued to the middle part. That is make the painting easier, but I added already brass pins.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fJicGTAOpNZmrYBbcnuZLfZttsB2O7RO)
I made also new wing struts from 1.2mm brass tube. The mounting tool from the kit is a nice provision. I marked the strut positions and could use the tool for strut length preparation.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-PrseNF2ZHP1iSYCQD6A-q748uZq-mUu)
The tail plane is very thin and had 0.5mm plastic pins?! Here I drilled and added 0.33mm nickel silver pins.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1K2hFdaaTKTT1N5bAvLpGFiS4Wyzf-9co)
So the tailplane can be mounted safely after painting and decals.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZHTFmLs7v2W_rem2bBW27axs2Dq-6jgH)
For me it seems, building a kit "out-of-the-box" means "by using some kit parts".(https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/pffft.gif)
Cheers,
Frank
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to be fair 'out of the box' never states which box those parts are coming from ;D ;D
great work BTW, you've done a cracking job on that undercarriage
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Beautiful work on the undercarriage legs Frank , Wunder bar !
Alexis
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Your usual Brilliant work. Not just on the gear but all of the rest in the update as well!
RAGIII
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Great work on the undercarriage Frank, it looks spot on.
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That undercarriage alone is a gem, Frank! High-end modelling at its best!
Andreas
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The landing gear and the tailplane mounting are just examples of the shortcomings of injection molded kits - the maker uses only what is available to them and what is feasible to do with the injection molding process. For some applications, it is not the best way.
Your use of different materials that are more suitable for the application is what makes you a model builder, not just an assembler.
Nice detail work. 8)
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Excellent work on your undercarriage.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Thank you Early Bird Fan, Alexis, Rick, Ferry, Andreas, Ken and Giuseppe! I'm glad, that you like it!
to be fair 'out of the box' never states which box those parts are coming from ;D ;D
I must remember that! ;D
Your use of different materials that are more suitable for the application is what makes you a model builder, not just an assembler.
Thank you for the accolade by a scratch builder! :)
Undercarriage, part II
I thought I was done, but I noticed thick stripes on the lower end of the kit u/c. With checking the pictures from the museum it was clear: I had to add an suspension travel limiter! A steel rope, here 0.1mm nickel silver wire.
Soldered it on small pieces of squeezed brass tube on one side, put it on and soldered the other side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1V3plqCFyyGVVY6VglLchjbMFeYWHj-aE)
On left side I noticed also a missing step, soldered on two drills.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MNcqRmdZwvQGGws8gKtBZYYEbobnA__i)
I fixed the positions of the new parts with CA.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lnUk7kLYTTBDbOBVtTz2nZkVhZ4cqpLQ)
I was curious how it would look mounted, so I painted it gray green and attached the axle with the "spring rubbers".
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gZFh7fEkpbCXyLVUtNPWViIWyJPPW_zG)
Accidentally I destroyed partly the paint layer during handling the springs, but this created a great used metal look. Luckily there is no yellow brass visible.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QQJYUh8TbyhMpxg_xK0xtfxoxy-Lk3ls)
Now I can call it finished, looks really nice plugged on.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xwyHTewMZzRKqOZNlBOShz9B91izKoAz)
I don't have the WNW kit at hand, but that undercarriage could not look better 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Almost annoyingly good! ;) Fantastic work as always and very nicely presented too!
/Fredrik
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If you need to compare to WNW sprues, here they are. Pictures are not that good, but enough to notice you far exceeded the reference. Congrats again, really deserved.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Sorry to have missed a couple of updates Frank - as I have posted elsewhere times are trying at the moment and I am having problems keeping up.
Your propellor and undercarriage are outstanding as usual. I keep having to remind myself that you must have the most enormous biceps and purse to be able to carry and store that huge Euro-cent coin!
Stephen.
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Undercarriage, part II
I thought I was done, but I noticed thick stripes on the lower end of the kit u/c. With checking the pictures from the museum it was clear: I had to add an suspension travel limiter! A steel rope, here 0.1mm nickel silver wire.
Soldered it on small pieces of squeezed brass tube on one side, put it on and soldered the other side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1V3plqCFyyGVVY6VglLchjbMFeYWHj-aE)
I fixed the positions of the new parts with CA.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lnUk7kLYTTBDbOBVtTz2nZkVhZ4cqpLQ)
I was curious how it would look mounted, so I painted it gray green and attached the axle with the "spring rubbers".
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gZFh7fEkpbCXyLVUtNPWViIWyJPPW_zG)
Accidentally I destroyed partly the paint layer during handling the springs, but this created a great used metal look. Luckily there is no yellow brass visible.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QQJYUh8TbyhMpxg_xK0xtfxoxy-Lk3ls)
Now I can call it finished, looks really nice plugged on.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xwyHTewMZzRKqOZNlBOShz9B91izKoAz)
I don't have the WNW kit at hand, but that undercarriage could not look better 8)
Cheers,
Frank
[/quote]
Hi Frank
it's just perfect ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
Some photos from the WNW kit
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/6f041e16a6/57829.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/57829) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/6f041e16a6/57828.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/57828) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/6f041e16a6/57830.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/57830) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/6f041e16a6/57827.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/57827) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/6f041e16a6/57831.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/57831)
sorry for the quality of the photos :(
Spyros
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Thank you Fredrik, Giuseppe, Stephen and Spyros!
Very interesting comparison on WNW parts, so thank you for the pictures Giuseppe and Spyros. Spyros, I think those are pictures from you build in progress? You should not forget to paint the rubber ;) But I guess you have done already ....
It is very interesting to see what is possible, even in my smaller scale.
But now I failed, I was not able to handle all those PE from the kit! Don't get me wrong, this build is not stopped, but I will use some Eduard parts instead :) This kit is really a challenge!
More, as usual with pictures, the next days 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Lovely work on the undercarriage Frank :)
Alexis
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The addition of the bungees and travel restriction wires is as amazing as always Frank!
RAGIII
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Thank you Alexis and Rick!
The fit is bad as hell ... Want to see an example?
Radiator shutter
At first the part on the WNW kit (right, 3rd from top):
(http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v46A6C38E/www/products/model_kitsets/32049/assembled_models/0132049F%20Halberstadt%20Cl.II%20Early%20sprue%20F%20view%20a.jpg)
After heavy bending (due to the thick brass it was hard to get the shutter plate into shape) the shutter plate in its frame. Theoretically it could glide, but I fixed it with glue. So far so nice.
In contrast to the manual, the frame here is already bent asymmetrically.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YH4elgarC3MPkT6lwL3ADLtXhZ3FKmyu)
The PE do not respect the fact, that there is a strut fitting below the radiator :o If you mount the PE according to the manual you cannot mount the wing later >:(
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PGyW3V_zA_F0_veFLgDKBuA4h3-6rPjI)
Compared to the original the shutter is to wide, and the frame has a asymmetric mounting as on WNW (see above). I tried to fix it with moving it to the left. The legs on the right are nearly to short, but the strut should fit now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gHkL5mnKZ26FMCMdnBOqcsW22tc-Qqow)
Now I can live with it.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1T5E9Wz2FQcYDRyWv3BBKExb6fNeaY2ES)
I have also the Halberstadt Cl.IV in my stash so I wanted to check, how it looks on this kit.
Note: The Cl.IV has the struts on outside of the middle part of the wing.
Here the PE, the frame is now asymmetric, good. But the shutter plate (part 3) is much to wide to fit into the frame 1 !!!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bfd8ZOdLJCi5BZ3mmG2fZNMInRU5Ygud)
Do they build the kit once after designing, before starting the production? Wrong in both kits in different ways.
Back to the first picture: The kits have a great potential to deliver nice details even in smaller scale, but I think the quality control of WNW was much better!
I learned to check here every small step for surprises, but this needs a lot of time :-\
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank ,
You do have a challenge with this one . I have this in my stash as well waiting to be built so I do admire your craftmenship going towards you build . It's not an easy kit . Take your time with it , this will be a great skill set for when you takle a resin kit ;)
Alexis
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Great job on the radiator fix Frank!
RAGIII
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Nice fix Frank. To bad the fit is so poor but in your hands it seems not to be a problem.
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You’re excelling yourself again Frank!
Incredible detail work that I can only look on with envy...
Guy
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That is some very neat and intricate work, Frank! There is only one word for your soldering skills: Awesome! A really enjoyable build to follow. That radiator fix is just so well done... Regards, Marc.
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Thank you Alexis, Rick, Ferry, Guy and Marc!
You do have a challenge with this one.
Oh yes! And this was started as relaxing nearly oob build! ::)
It feels as I have never done such complex kit with so many parts (in reality my Bristol Fighter has also many scratched things ...).
.-. .- -.. .. ---
You may ask, what kind of headline is that?! Of course I talk about the communication system of this Halberstadt.
The aircraft equipped with wireless transmitter and receiver can be noted from outside by a installed cover for a generator attached to the engine. The bubble has a much thicker socket, which I sanded down. I guess this was intended, since the shape of the fuselage is not flat here. I made the platic also thinner to be sure, that the generator fits later.
The kit offers again options here: a PE plate for not installed generator and also a small PE frame to left the hole completely open.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tEMS9RyYvP2gK3OsHHhJthD2paHm2deN)
On the sprue there are two devices and according to the manual those are optional parts, this OR that. But the second device is the transmitting amplifier, which was not always carried. The WNW manual was very helpful here.
I found an interesting page about that wireless communication system:
https://www.stonevintageradio.com/description.php?II=959&UID=20210113135642
Nice side story: also WNW got it wrong :) On the amplifier there are 3 decals (G12a) as small dials, but in real those are openings to see, if the 3 amplifier electron tubes behind are glowing correctly.
See the picture on the right with the opened amplifier (pic of above page):
(https://www.stonevintageradio.com/images/959.jpg)
So I will use both devices, added cables (braided lines). On top are two spare cartridge belts. Here the kit is really crazy!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11QCI_FLyFiA-keSxSaSiAomYGWxPZqto)
The PE of the kit contains four full belts and an empty belt! Never seen that in a kit. I used only a pieces of one belt for both spare drums.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KSdtBs1OLGaDLX9HosScT1ADqS5I4awr)
The empty belt would allow dioramas like this:
(https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/9/1/6/1003916-21625-10-pristine.jpg)
For painting of the radio I had the darker gray green in the airbrush, so I painted also the header tank for the upper wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ouVv0Rk-5hbebeae7Lg9EMTsj4LUcf2G)
A PE was glued on top before, and after painting I added a piece of stretched clear sprue as fuel gauge. It is mentioned in the manual but there are no clear parts in this kit.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BTj_fExqgTKq6XGL-Elq0I3gtJVxcCOM)
Back to radio: The devices are installed, also the cable to the generator. Also the belt drums.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hWZJAY2A-7LNTbEHvzn34ZLQZlZ81HOo)
I added a scratched morse telegraph key on the right upper frame, as shown on the WNW manual.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UGDj6rDgyakdhen0BPZS-5fMAPG6U1lb)
A pump for fuel pressure was also done in brass, here on the picture of the museum aircraft my creation and the kit part. The kit contains also a longer pump, as installed on some aircraft.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1h4jy9vWE8tKhNk0lQ1jyMkUKtjUBnAVL)
I need also a wooden drum and outlet for the aerial, but I think I can mount the outlet only, after the frame is glued into the fuselage halve.
I hope you had some fun with reading by built report mixed with historic information.
Cheers,
Frank
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I don't really know what to say Frank. Brilliant Modeling doesn't even seem to cover your work 8) Your eye for, and attention to detail is becoming Legendary! I am very happy you went ahead with your build log. We learn so Much from You!
RAGIII
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Awesome job, Frank! Beware that ground attack airplanes like the ones of Schlachtstaffel 26b rarely carried radio equippment on board. The space was completely occupied by ammunition and grenades respectively.
Kind regards,
Andreas
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I don't really know what to say Frank. Brilliant Modeling doesn't even seem to cover your work 8) Your eye for, and attention to detail is becoming Legendary! I am very happy you went ahead with your build log. We learn so Much from You!
RAGIII
I completely agree with Rick, Frank. Your attention to detail is better than many whi build in the larger scale - and that includes me!!!
Stephen.
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Wow, thank you for your great feedback - that is high octane fuel for my motivation!
Beware that ground attack airplanes like the ones of Schlachtstaffel 26b rarely carried radio equippment on board.
Ok, but now it is already in. So I display one of the rare days with fire reporting for artillery 8)
Joking aside - I followed the Ronny Bar profile of the bird in the WD 157, and there the generator cover is installed, not the flat blade.
Cheers,
Frank
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Great work and so fun to follow!
/Fredrik
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Great work and so fun to follow!
Thanks Fredrik and I hope you have fun with this one too!
BTW: Has anyone decoded the last title?
Cockpit
As mentioned the last time the aerial was missing. I need a spool for the long wire, a (very small) spool and the outlet below the fuselage are plastic parts in the kit.
I used the WNW manual as example and made new wooden parts, with wound up thinnest copper wire.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15xLTzvm1EKSff8rFdCuyh1SWxtfXs2Ch)
And mounted. I primed only the base plate. The wanted raw wood in contrast to the other, also wood painted, cockpit parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fZrX2xAp8iTXRBZRm1lSemsgDU0ZRMXo)
Again a picture today in day light, the seat for the pilot (I replaced the square mounting struts by round brass), control column and the belts are also added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lKHiehlmrenKWpoSkj-_yKaRq2iCjoG2)
The dials are a film to be painted from the back side. The white areas are ok, but the small areas e.g. on the compass are damn small!
My punch and die tool do not cut very clean sometimes and I ruined two dials later!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iX8COskguK4mmY5E8tQ-rG-ll_F4qpUV)
Some details added like clock on the wall, magneto and paper instruction cut from manual and glued to the wall. Finally a washing was added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tXvN80T_qeeuqeLBPcu3UjgWm3RpS3r4)
I checked the manual for missing cockpit parts and found maps some pages later - very nice!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13RMlQbYS4N5j-Bh_y8acuK0WO29CAdHe)
I folded the smaller one add moved it in the gunners cockpit below the front seat.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1juBLksthAWNx8gdOcIOs1cZpLhpDCsrB)
The instrument panel is available as plastic and PE. I used the PE one and added the small details.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mSykOWCmzgOkP4yAn6OF8QOc1KL9cNbu)
What a kit! The fuselage is closed now and the glue drying ...
Cheers,
Frank
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That’s truely great work here, Frank. The cockpit looks perfect.
Andreas
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Frank,
This is another display of top class modeling in 1/48 scale. You are a master in that scale.
Kevin
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Frank,
This is another display of top class modeling in 1/48 scale. You are a master in that scale.
Kevin
I agree completely. As a Matter of fact I will add in ANY SCALE!
RAGIII
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Really nice work in the pit Frank
Alexis
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Wow, great work Frank. That's a real nice cockpit.
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Outstanding work with this kit. I have one, maybe two in my plans.
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Outstanding work on the interior Frank.
radio.
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Thank you Andreas, Kevin, Rick, Alexis, Ferry, Kamil and Ken! What a generous feedback from you!(https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/meister.gif)
Outstanding work with this kit. I have one, maybe two in my plans.
I have also the Halberstadt Cl.IV kit in my stash. Many parts on it are very similar. But I guess this will move down in my priority list if I'm able to finish this one ::) There are so many other nice kits in my stash ....
radio.
Yes! You got the joke ;)
At the moment I'm working on the engine.
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful interior work, I like your aerial reel and the nice touch with maps.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Like Guiseppe I like that wire spool. I also like the way the map has been filed away - obviously the observer and I have a lot in common....!
Stephen.
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Thank you Giuseppe and Stephen!
I also like the way the map has been filed away - obviously the observer and I have a lot in common....!
I used a place, where it do not hide many details ;)
Engine
At first again a picture from the last posting. I forgot to mention two rods. There were two small recesses for the lower wing mounting. I drilled holes for pins and noted, that the space behind the holes is free. So I had the idea to go through with a brass wire (unvisible below the tank) and in the front a thicker nickel silver wire (below the control colums mechanism).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1juBLksthAWNx8gdOcIOs1cZpLhpDCsrB)
This allows a teaser: the wings can be plugged on and allows later a robust mounting. The undercarriage is plugged on too, and the engine body (shown with the airscrew some posts ago) is painted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nqNi_8xn-zf6huoK8a480x3t__ubERC1)
As I reported a Vector engine was to big, so I want to use the kit engine. But the valve drive mechanism lacks a lot of details (the upper one). On my Albatros W.4 I used a Vector engine, but converted it with the kit parts to a Mercedes D.III. So I had a spare drive of the D.IIIa in my stash, which has much more details! The only thing: it is to long.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LT5EvUsYn35HGSX82Oah6ads2P0uj1Dq)
So I removed the shaft below and glued the remaining little buggers onto a new shaft.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16U2HWxsW0QRlYLQvqR2WF-SofI6EMg6F)
I removed the plastic pins (valves) and glued the new part in place after painting with different Alclads - very promising.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1D0t-S9qJylJ91bIkLZAaO7Ze0NT-pWH0)
For the valve springs I wound colored 0.15mm copper wire on a 0.4mm drill shaft and cut it in short pieces.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WBB3hEHl_jZMpZjFSKjD1phGPQXlDMQ3)
The new valves are glowed 0.33mm nickel silver, with the springs glued in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FchvDeT0fNMFqy5YR8EoaVDElbk4_had)
Of course the same game on the exhaust side:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wyMaiZlRiqdZUOuD3tvOBx4RT9NI1b1L)
To be able to see, how the engine fits with all accessories around, I need to mount the Spandau MG. I removed the jacket from the kit Spandau and added blacked Master brass parts. With other parts from the kit it is prepared for mounting:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19TkJ5LHeO0j9Par0umkuiUwsCeLHK9_j)
A ver fine kit PE needs to be added to - the control of the generator.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FMtYtnIWfPTjg63MjRLt0tyOLgLtu4p6)
Both are mounted, then I added also the panel in front.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=128eKqsAzvpRwZrLiimEKnXcCsYBKtbZV)
More parts was added to the engine, and I had also to modify the engine mounts in the fuselage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10ABiCE3_tVE4T8MZQsQCjd2wXh88n8fj)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17x3TYI_5BI_QbCZyiV-xrzSt_xmv6Gha)
With a wash it looks much nicer!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wgKuM9h6owSf6I1d4vsIoLivNjHBiKCu)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HJ9tdXkXSK-M1P766E2MdkSqO2KcyV7t)
The engine is finally in place! After that an "brass" oil tank is added too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YnhxEKnwvclsq6zdx_uYmZI2PD4Lu-Dk)
Should have modified the carburetor a bit, because there is some slight trouble with the Spandau. A PE plate will be added later here.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10cRDdYcjx_y84-hYEmrvk_-4Z3AlLbSP)
That was a lot of work, but an important step is done. The lower part of the engine is less detailed, but this is hidden. The new valve drive is nice in a prominent position.
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful Frank!
Guy
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Just wonderful Frank.
But should if possible even to move the generator backwards into the cover.
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/f39f8317fb/60854.JPG) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/60854) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/f39f8317fb/60855.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/60855) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/f39f8317fb/60856.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/60856)
Spyros
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Thank you Guy and Spyros!
But should if possible even to move the generator backwards into the cover.
Hmm, too late.
1. it is glued in place
2. the generator is not be visible on both positions ???
3. as far as I found out both positions are possible.
Some engines have generator mounts on the crankcase:
(http://www.wwi-models.org/Photos/Engines/Mercedes/MercDIII//treloar/FullLeftSide2.JPG)
I have not found a picture with mounted generator, but here also a WNW model of a D.IIIa (from youtube):
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eLwIz-sCVuc/maxresdefault.jpg)
So I think both solutions are possible.
Cheers,
Frank
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👍👍👍
Still fun, and amazing, to follow!
/Fredrik
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Outstanding work on the engine Frank. This one is really moving forward now!
RAGIII
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Coming along wonderfully Frank 8)
Alexis
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Nice detailing, Frank.
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Superb detailing - especially thos evalve springs.
Stephen.
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Always the same small community here - I can count on you! :) Thank you dear friends! (https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/meister.gif)
This one is really moving forward now!
There is still enough on the ToDo list ...
Superb detailing - especially thos evalve springs.
I got 0.15mm enameled copper wire in red, black and blue to wire a jet model with LEDs (never finished that project either). The blue one lost its color in direct sunlight on the workbench and now looks slightly yellow and blue like steel - I took that one.
Cheers,
Frank
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Fabulous as always.
Superb detailing - especially thos evalve springs.
I got 0.15mm enameled copper wire in red, black and blue to wire a jet model with LEDs (never finished that project either). The blue one lost its color in direct sunlight on the workbench and now looks slightly yellow and blue like steel - I took that one.
[/quote]
One of my other interests is amateur radio and I build a lot of small transmitters and receivers some of which use very small ferrite toroid cores and wire between 30 and 40 AWG - 0.15mm is about 35AWG. Consequently I have on hand a good supply of this size enamel coated soft copper wire in various colours that I use for all sorts of model detailing, soft, easily cut and formed, very handy.
For those who may not know, this kind of wire is also commonly referred to as magnet wire, not that it is magnetic but it is commonly used for winding electromagnetics and electric motors ( of course ).
It is surprising that your blue wire was effected by sunlight as I have never noted that with the wire I have been using, I will have to look more closely in the future.
cheers, Graham
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Really beautiful Frank. I appreciate al the steps you show us of how it's done. We can learn a lot from this.
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Thank you very much!
I appreciate al the steps you show us of how it's done.
It doesn't have to be the last word, it's just my way. ;)
It is surprising that your blue wire was effected by sunlight as I have never noted that with the wire I have been using,
Graham, here is the copper wire, on the left there is the original blue. Hard to show the real colors with the camera.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DPf0dv06VpLj5j9t3Kro696tz2aP2Eqo)
And now a question:
Splatter
The kit provides two variants of decals for fuselage.
I'm not sure, if I like this. Only the upper one is an option:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eqDIDnWXl2CBo3T22PBR1lVdHE87sK2-)
Should look like this:
(http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v46A6C38E/www/products/model_kitsets/32049/colour_schemes/Halberstadt%20Cl.II%204,%20Royal%20Bavarian%20Schusta%2026b,%20early%201917.jpg)
So I experimented a bit. Painted a piece of plastic in the layout of the middle wing with five colors according to WNW, followed by a splatter painting with very low pressure.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10yViGwYmNX9c85YEDmQE5brNGK46XNn2)
The same piece, just on a white background.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1o5zowp5WRPwymSAYV81JrkPqf81f6zbC)
In real it looks a bit different, hard to picture ist like it looks for the naked eye.
What do you think?
Cheers,
Frank
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Better then the decals Frank , looks really good actually :)
Alexis
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Better then the decals Frank , looks really good actually :)
Alexis
I agree with Alexis! Besides you know you won't be happy if you don't do it yourself ::)
RAGIII
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Must say that i like it. I would leave this as it is.
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Frank, just follow the WNW's instructions and you will have almost perfect result.
An example
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/9d4f495e87/45042.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/45042) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/9d4f495e87/45044.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/45044) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/9d4f495e87/45043.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/45043) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/9d4f495e87/45046.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/45046) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/9d4f495e87/45045.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/45045) (https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/9d4f495e87/45050.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/45050)
sorry for the abuse in your post
Spyros
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Excellent work on your engine, Frank. About "splatter" painting, your test shot looks already good to me but maybe suggested technique for 1/32nd scale gives a grainy finish with acryls. Did you consider try with inks or thinned artist's oils?
Good luck!
Giuseppe
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Frank, just do it. That looks awesome. I think you nailed it.
Andreas
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Ok my friends, it looks like I should go with the airbrush solution.
The decals are not as bad as it may look like on the sheet. Found yesterday some builds with using the decals and it looks ok. The decals sheet is very thin and clear, so the "dots" are showing the paint below. So the final result depends on the used color shade below the decal.
Did you consider try with inks or thinned artist's oils?
Yes Giuseppe, but I was afraid that the clear colors or inks would not cover enough of the background.
Here is a nice example in detail from aviationgraphic.com, which looks like the existing Cl.II in the museum in Poland.
(https://www.aviationgraphic.com/6094-thickbox_default/halberstadt-clii-5-bh-36.jpg)
It would be very nice, if I can reach a result like this, what a beauty:
(https://www.aviationgraphic.com/9130-thickbox_default/halberstadt-clii-5-bh-36.jpg)
Source: https://www.aviationgraphic.com/aviation-lithographs/1124-halberstadt-clii-5-bh-36.html
I think you nailed it.
Andreas, I checked also your build ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Looking at the photos of your test piece, I think that you should follow through with that method Frank. Trying to achieve a realistic finish on a model is immensly difficult, and the effect of the result is invariably in the eye of the observer. Without wishing to start a pointless argument, I think that there will always be space for modellers to (sincerely) disagree when it comes to colours on models. If you think that the result is close enough, that is what matters.
Stephen.
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I would go with the paint and avoid complete coverage with decals.
-
Pretty difficult to say which technique looks best (or will look best) to my eye... But this thread is turning into a very useful research and how-to practical experience! I am following with rapt attention - and admiration too! Marc.
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Thank you Stephen, Ken and Marc!
Linen paint
After I tried to paint the fuselage with five-color lozenge patches I don't like the result and removed the paint. Luckily the white primer has survived the attack with alcohol.
So I tried something different, to paint the lower surface of the wings. I used the recommended paint by WingnutWings, 10 parts with with a part deck tan. The result was the same, to much paint and I don't like result. Removed.
Luckily the alcohol removed the upper layer but left the shadows nearly intact. Shadowing by accident.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CNehCtkVOzfZtO6YrTTAnHvk1IwgbQ2H)
Painted again with the lovely MRP linen paints. I think this is ok now now and I let it as it is.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19_vXoIpYS1Y9Y_NYO4U8qg0YCsYA9tD_)
The upper side is also prepared with shadows for the decals.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iG1UxBjHzo4uPXRU0scWjEOAb5nTEjrQ)
I prepared 5-color lozenge pieces, normally used on lower surface, for the upper side.
And added hopefully enough Future to the wings, as I learned on my Dr.I that enough was not enough.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tgv01bGbDIZaFQdirFljWoojqbS8FVdX)
I wanted to apply the decals but learned in this forum to better wait at least 24 hours, so some patience is needed ???
Cheers,
Frank
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Moving forward nicely Frank with preparing the wings .
There is a trick with Tamiya paints for that transparent look . Mix the paint in their clear and thin 40 / 60 . test spray adjust thinner if need . ( use their lacquer thinner ) . This will also provide a better surface for clear coating for decals . Taking less clear coats ;) You can also tint future with Tamiya paint as well , but don't thin !
Alexis
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The end result on your under wing surfaces looks Terrific Frank! The Lozenge should also look Great when applied!
RAGIII
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Those wings are looking good Frank. Will the underwing lozenge on the upper surface be too light? Not sure - just a question.
Stephen.
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Thank you for the paint tips Alexis!
The Lozenge should also look Great when applied!
Hopefully :) I selected this time a full sheet from my stash with a 45° connection between the stripes. I hope to reduce effort and waste, instead of using the in-scale singe stripes, which I used in other projects.
Will the underwing lozenge on the upper surface be too light? Not sure - just a question.
Stephen, that was one of the reasons to select this marking. The Halberstadt Cl.IV and many late Cl.II has the usual lozenge applied, dark on top and the brighter one below. I know only some early Cl.II with bright linen on lower surface and the bright lozenge on top. In the Ronny Bar profile it looks even a bit more white, bleached, faded. I like that look, may be I put a light layer paint on it.
I don't know, why this was done. I could be a communication problem? May be the factory was told to use lozenge, but at first (and only) the brighter variant arrived, so they simply used it? May be some experts know ... And that is the only type I know with the bright lozenge on top.
Andreas/Borsos has build the "neighbor" with the tactical number 4 on it, same lozenge style, in the Memorial Group Build:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10173.msg200629#msg200629
By the way, what is the correct type? Cl.II or CL.II ? So uppercase or lowercase "L" ? I have seen both in books, WNW used lowercase. May be I should check some Idflieg documents.
Edit: Found some pictures of type plates on aircraft (the manufacturer should know) in WD27:
"Militär-Flugzeug CL.II xxxx/17" xxxx for serial, and
"Halberstädter Flugzeug Werk G.m.b.H.
Halberstadt Typ HalbC.L.II No. xxxx"
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
I’ve just noticed your valve springs.. looking at my 1/48 engine - I can barely see the valves, let alone the springs!
Guy
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I have just looked into this build after some time. What a spectacle. Detailing, painting... Great that you decided to continue with your fantastic reports, Frank.
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Thank you Guy and PrzemoL!
looking at my 1/48 engine - I can barely see the valves, let alone the springs!
If you haven't added any springs, you won't be able to see them! ;D ;D ;D
What a spectacle.
I'm doing the rib tapes now. And Aviattic wrote in the manual sheet: "Spectacular but very time consuming!" - Sooo true!
Great that you decided to continue with your fantastic reports, Frank.
Such fantastic feedback is the fuel for motivation and keep it running!
Cheers,
Frank
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Your paintwork looks great but when I see the decals............
Not my cup of tea (yet) but I'll look closely how you apply them ;)
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Thank you for reminding me of Andreas' superb model Frank. Yours will be every bit as spectacular when it is finished - in fact when I look at your and Andreas' models (and indeed many others on this site), I wonder why I do not take up sorting and assessing paper clips...!
Stephen.
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Thank you Ferry and Stephen!
Stephen, please continue with your scratch builds and DON'T move to paper clips!
Lozenge
Then I will not keep you in suspense for long!
To apply the already connected stripes was an easy thing, and this saves a lot of waste due the 45° orientation, compared to normal stripes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JyADhDQsdyYe4IIcNsbodwbU-QZ2iRBw)
After some hours drying time I conformed the decals on the edges and tips with Micro Set (the blue one). The decals reacts wonderful on it. The I let it dry overnight.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16FyZpqjFuTGtn7AXoM6a6ZwPojs3GkIK)
Today afternoon I applied the rib tapes. The main problem was to cut 0.7mm strips in a consistent way. After this was sorted out I had good progress.
Note: For rib tapes a special sheet with white decal paper is needed!
After some drying I cut wider strips and applied them on leading and trailing edge. This is much more tricky compared to the rib tapes!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1o9yrpdrjQoUHfr6w9Rbk_5M6DKvOyHSw)
I really like the look. On the right wing the main spar is still visible. The plywood on the leading edge and the spar were very nice moulded by Mirage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iCfudiPZWJcTwaZfRMbk0jOVLG9VNLNb)
And another view. I still need to fix the tapes on leading and trialing edge after some drying, may be with Future.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mBDaeeNtPupYFa7GAsLtypJErVrNGgGy)
I'm very happy so far. Luckily to lower surface don't need decals, because I need a break now!
Cheers,
Frank
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Ooh gorgeous Frank!
I can smell the dope from here!
Guy
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Beautiful work on the Lozenge application! Looking stunning Frank!
RAGIII
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Nice work on applying the loz Frank :)
Alexis
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Thank you my friends!
Nice work on applying the loz Frank :)
Alexis, since you refused the job, I had to do it myself :-*
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful effect with lozenges, I've been looking for stipple finishing and if I was you I would try by tapping with a sponge or use a corrugated plastic sheet, like a folder back or anti skid film for ornaments bases as a stamp. Usually these have a pattern on their surface looking much like the picture you posted of the original painting scheme.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Those lozenges look super Frank. Those tapes must have tried your patience sorely. Such a shame to now have to apply paint all over them - even as a stipple.
Stephen.
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Thanks!
Those tapes must have tried your patience sorely.
Oh yes, to cut them was not easy.
Such a shame to now have to apply paint all over them - even as a stipple.
Sorry Stephen, I confused with my postings!
The lozenge on the wings does not get paint (may be a very thin layer to break the high contrast).
The stipple paint is only on the middle part of the upper wing and the fuselage. And below this stipple paint are not decals, this have to be painted in bigger random pattern.
But I'm not yet done with the decals: ailerons, tailplane, rudder and wheels needs also to be covered. And again some rib tapes ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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Fabulous work as always Frank.
Cheers,
Gary
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I see you got the lozenge figured out. :)
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Award winning job on the Losenge there!
Are you going to tone the colour down a little?
Cheers,
Hugh
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Thank you Gary, Ken and Hugh!
Are you going to tone the colour down a little?
Yes, I will try a very thin layer of linen or off-white. I like the look in the profile by Ronny Bar. But I don't want to loose the fine fabric structure!?!
Here in comparison to the profile. The lower surface is a bit darker, but it will be in the shadow once mounted. The middle part is still unpainted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qFe7cX1sWtMrqm6OTauUAscere2JLBxr)
At the moment I'm working on ailerons and tail parts.
Cheers,
Frank
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That is going to be a delicate job to put the lighter colour over the wing transfers - rather you than me for that one. The wings are looking super BTW.
Stephen.
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The wings look excellent so far Frank. I am sure you will accomplish the look you are after!
RAGIII
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Amazing lozenge! I can learn a lot from this.
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Thank you my friends!
Nice work on applying the loz Frank :)
Alexis, since you refused the job, I had to do it myself :-*
Cheers,
Frank
Aren't you glad you did , If I was doing this you would still be waiting for the job to get completed . I like to take loooooooooong coffee breaks which by the end of day can lead to a few glasses of wine . And that leads me to dancing around the house with Eisbrecher playing ;)
Excellent work on the wings so far Frank and as always ,looking forward on your next up-date my friend :)
Alexis
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Thank you for all your encouraging words! ... very necessary ...
At least the lozenge job is done. The surfaces was manageable, the rib tapes need a lot of time and patience, but leading/trailing edges and wing tips are driving you crazy ...
After the experience with masking on top of decals on my Dr.I I wanted to use the kit decals. ... wanted ...
The black crosses fall in thousand pieces, and the others are also very brittle. It failed on the transitions to the (kit provided!) separated control surfaces ... trouble ... tried masking ... more trouble ...
Hopefully more soon!
Cheers,
Frank
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This is good too know about the decals Frank , think I will be replacing the ones in my kit . Sucks that this build is causing you a few issues , but I know you will surprise as all .
Alexis
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I hope Alexis, I hope!
Tail
The tail skid is a new wooden one, with metal fittings.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kVQqxBV213ST1R-W-rLt4xARXHA1UG3M)
The kit one has to be glued in before closing the fuselage halves.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tG32XVRWRRg2qGIbg3nnSMmgXfjD0Tn4)
Mine can be added after painting, as long the axle pin is not fixed. A thin etched PE plate change the outlet shape, and a frame provides a limit stop. Both PE are kit parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VoJq-6fV7KjJSgVYt6NoEfZxE3_Dkb_A)
The lozenge decals are applied to the tail. Tapes not yet applied.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UlGf7FyQiuQYvxHu_Da7jt0U1FWgAjOu)
Linen on lower surface.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Q9LuOk0i8S9QlIJJwGIWbgulyyKgbPwW)
Lozenge job is completed and a thin filter layer was applied. Here nearly invisible, but in normal light it is ok.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IKCUEuzMLtNnpqmTFkVwE7upfF1M_ZZt)
For the tail I tried to cut very thin rib tapes. The wings has now tapes on wing tips. The tapes on leading and trailing edges needs much patience!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nvqk6_R8iT8qhqpttmEoUBn6icVnkpAl)
The crosses on the rudder are masked and painted. In some light angles you can see the decal fragments below, no chance to fix it. This is the better side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WSbDVwZmf_zS46aY0onAfLjXlHRIOqZi)
On upper side the cuts and on the right aileron needs some care.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lHF3UWGLVe3B5iFA0Ks39W7HGoDP2AuC)
The crosses on the lower wings are from my spares box.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LfdsxPwuPIVr4u5sYXA4thGZQy6BOnzP)
I soldered also new V-struts from 0.9mm brass, since the kits ones are only 0.58mm thick. I don't trust them and want to avoid later problems. The front needs some final adjustment. Please note the side pins for mounting.
I think I will replace the front struts (in the right middle of the picture) too, but here I need to adjust the length to get the correct angle of the upper wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SGn-Y5L5hRYgUHwdiZxlss84hUNA3xDm)
That is the mounting position below the middle wing part.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DJEXRxjByK9PS9GBBukpkqU52e6Lih63)
I have started to cut brass sleeves for rigging. I'm doing everything I can right now to avoid having to paint the fuselage, but I'm starting to run out of excuses.
Cheers,
Frank
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This is really looking fantastic!!!
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Imagine that, You have added details, decals, and other stuff that Looks Like the Real thing! What else would we expect from you 8) Brilliant work as always My Friend!
RAGIII
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You never cease to amaze me Frank!
My tail skid broke on the Fokker.. and I bent a bit brass rod to replace it :P
Great update,
Guy
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Nice job on those details Frank . By the time you are done with the rib taping you will be a master ! You have been a good student ;)
Have you test fitting the cowl parts yet ? Form other builds this seems to have a few fit issues . Or are you leaving them off ?
Alexis
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Fine work, Frank. You know that eventually you will have to paint that fuselage.
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Thank you Carl, Rick, Guy, Alexis and Ken!
Have you test fitting the cowl parts yet ? Form other builds this seems to have a few fit issues . Or are you leaving them off ?
Good point Alexis! There a two pairs of the front panels in the kit, and as far as I see the pair I need will fit. It is a bit tricky to do a dry fitting due to the complex shape, hopefully no bad surprises! They are a bit thicker as the fuselage, but that is intended so there is a small overlap of metal panel on the wooden fuselage.
You know that eventually you will have to paint that fuselage.
Obviously you are right!
But today I was busy with detailing the wings! I checked my references, and now I have an idea for a very original rigging and have done preparations accordingly.
This kit is really impressive!
Cheers,
Frank
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Struts
I was still working with wings. Prepared a lot of small parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Vu60kAV8f9R4pPv4Ku6xvvC11NNNDKdq)
On the lower surface of lower wing I painted a bubble dark grey green. You guess what it is?
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nbL7hkiaTr4HBpk53MgqC4VdRk2o-6SK)
Yeah, the compass mount. The compass looked a bit naked in its hole, so I turned a very thin ring.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14ihza70xVgJBoBUnnZ0s2NCJAM0tdiux)
Mounted and put a "glass" in with Kristal Klear. On the right of the compass you see a shadow.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1r4scMcKaoazNFUzziIHDtibyW50_HKfV)
That is a weather shield, provided by the kit. Also all the other metal parts like lids and step plate.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1b4QUWf5NZgd23Z54yududI2O2ADVipNt)
Added those maintenance covers also on lower surface.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1v_HNdi7ZSM9B2cvSesiadMOBMfD37Y1r)
I showed already the struts, but not the profile. Now I soldered pins into them.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1w0JFbVbP0MgBIR_vB-y84SYEw8WvrWP7)
I used the plates of the kit in a different way, the double hole ones on this side. Here you see also hole in the struts. Not easy on the thin trailing edge.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_uRUnuAyIGXCKSd8NoF1Cb7kNOm4JYpI)
Prepared for painting:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BVka3XW7pyP0JJ2iW-mrVmbtNqv16m25)
But before painting I made a dry run! The lower wings plugged on.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1m2Xr3o8odVYuDtTB8oYVl3Jiax502O-4)
The four outer struts hold the upper wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ExTMrw5tJpPdPURSC3opTMZum6KG0HWa)
After painting I wanted to add decals, but ruined them. Used some from another kit now and protected them with a clear coat before applying them
The stencils are wrong now but at least the VL (Vorn Links), HL (Hinten Links), and VR and HR for Rechts (means front/back, left/right) are readable. The numbering of the kit in the manual is wrong! Here a WNW picture:
(http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/vFA3EFA01/www/products/model_kitsets/32049/archive_photos/Brand%20new%20early%20production%20Halberstadt%20Cl.II%20delivered%20to%20AFP%2018%20(012132-002)%20wing%20and%20undercarriage%20detail.jpg)
And my strut mount in comparison to a sketch.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16woBR28gC21yRYdmwgUoUqHL5kpLrwFK)
For the cross rigging between the struts a turnbuckle One End is used, the other one is an Albatros (both types from Gaspatch Models).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Zz5_uo2e41jzU1favzqH6CMGUkk27Bu6)
I have thought about this a while how to do this, but now it is done and is now a good preparation for later mounting and rigging.
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
This is shaping up to be one beautiful build.
Kevin
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Long ago I ran out of superlatives for your modelling skills Frank. You continue to leave my flabber well and truly gasted!
I do not have any language to properly express my admiration for your skill, so just brilliant will have to do for now.
Stephen.
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Wunderbar Frank !
Alexis
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Long ago I ran out of superlatives for your modelling skills Frank. You continue to leave my flabber well and truly gasted!
I do not have any language to properly express my admiration for your skill, so just brilliant will have to do for now.
Stephen.
I will use MY Amigo Ed's style here and just say a Big Ditto 8)
RAGIII
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Great way to rig the struts!
(Making notes)
Cheers,
Hugh
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Long ago I ran out of superlatives for your modelling skills Frank. You continue to leave my flabber well and truly gasted!
I do not have any language to properly express my admiration for your skill, so just brilliant will have to do for now.
Stephen.
Tailing Stephen and Rick: your models are a class of their own, over the top.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Thank you for visiting this thread and leaving such nice words, my friends!
You continue to leave my flabber well and truly gasted!
Stephen, ss great as my craft skills may be, my knowledge of the English language is the exact opposite!
All the dictionaries and translation tools failed, until I realized that you split the word flabbergast ???
Thank you very much for such praise!
Great way to rig the struts!
If only I always had such good references like this sketch!
This mount do not match always, they invented a century ago so many interesting ways to rig a biplane. Luckily there are some different types of turnbuckles available by Gaspatch.
If you look at the sketch you will note, that a turnbuckle was inserted into a slot. I tried that, to bolt the eye of a turnbuckle Type C in the strut with 0.2mm. It worked, but the Type C have all a 90° rotated alignment. So a One End glued in has more options in positioning and looks similar.
Cheers,
Frank
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Thank you for visiting this thread and leaving such nice words, my friends!
You continue to leave my flabber well and truly gasted!
Stephen, ss great as my craft skills may be, my knowledge of the English language is the exact opposite!
All the dictionaries and translation tools failed, until I realized that you split the word flabbergast ???
Thank you very much for such praise!
Great way to rig the struts!
If only I always had such good references like this sketch!
This mount do not match always, they invented a century ago so many interesting ways to rig a biplane. Luckily there are some different types of turnbuckles available by Gaspatch.
If you look at the sketch you will note, that a turnbuckle was inserted into a slot. I tried that, to bolt the eye of a turnbuckle Type C in the strut with 0.2mm. It worked, but the Type C have all a 90° rotated alignment. So a One End glued in has more options in positioning and looks similar.
Cheers,
Frank
You method seems to well represent the original. Where did you source your strut material?
Cheers,
Hugh
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The brass micro (and nickel silver) tubing by Albion Alloy is available on many shops. The size are from 0.3mm up to 2mm in 0.1mm steps.
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
I understand that your English may not be quite as good as your modelling skills (but I wish my German was even fractionally as good as your English) but I simply did a simple German trick of splitting my word with half of the word at the end of the sentence! Glad you worked it out in the end.
Stephen.
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Fuselage
The task of the fuselage was still waiting ...
Some details on the fuselage are not that nice, but the kit has PE replacement. So I removed the plastic.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15lQL077bgoGQ0xvAq6Yj8ACo-i7IZ6lV)
The PE are glued in place after the primer.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IPlUjrLDL-h_tDXDG6ft9DZgNGm4BVzo)
Beside the other hatches there are damn small mounts for the tailplane too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1OQubSFajiplXcKNJMSTfPSG3nUOp_JaJ)
And now for the stipple camouflage the five colors recommended by WNW are applied to fuselage and middle wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vYGmEVi4UvAe-U3QIJ5P-0zATPFyogVP)
The layout is not perfect, but I let it as it is.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iWidHu1gEGPsZiSzBY5-8g6aDwGa9ZUy)
After a day drying time I applied the splatter colour with airbrush.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RuRps4Vh1aC7o_qSFSqQCBPKen9jDrEn)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zU97nX8mDshJzm5HjJ08GvpuYyRlmwzL)
A check of the look. It is very hard to take the real impression of the colors with the camera!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zmTy8KNJdKnrFIPgzVr_s7K9Dp5IIOCA)
After my problem with the decals I tent to cut masks for the bigger parts, but I need to use the stencils.
Here I need some help: 6 are the propeller logos, also mentioned in manual.
But 5 and 8 are not mentioned, for none of the 3 markings. 8 seems to be another propeller manufacturer.
5 are clearly the nice logos of the "Halberstädter Flugzeugwerke", but where to apply? I can't find any hint, also not in WNW manual. On the tail, as usual on Albatros and Fokker? Any idea?
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=158Oy6X1bXWPUO6R5uGY3aedZtltYiEuM)
Next steps are gloss coat, then stencils. Protect with clear coat again.
Masking and white paint, mask again and red. Let's see ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Hi Frank
I think the logo is for Cl.IV not for Cl.II
Spyros
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Beautifully done Frank :)
I did this method of camouflage on a WNW’s one and it’s really very effective.
You can see how rough the base kit is in those shots.. but you’re making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear!
Guy
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The details look excellent as always in your builds Frank. The painting however, is Above Standard!! You have done a Beautiful job on the base colors and splattering 8)
RAGIII
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I think the logo is for Cl.IV not for Cl.II
Could be, but the sheets are definitely different. I have also a Cl.IV kit, and there are no such logos, the decal sheet is completely different. (on this one is also Cl.II in the stencils).
I have now a different theory: those are all propeller manufacturer logos.
6 is Niendorf
8 is clearly Propulsor
5 is Halberstädter Flugzeugwerke
I checked my books "German Propeller Makers of WWI" and yes, they made their own props! Especially those auxiliary ones for wind driven generators etc, but also big ones.
From the style my prop is a Garuda, but here I don't have the right sized decals yet.
You can see how rough the base kit is in those shots.. but you’re making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear!
Thank you Guy, again some interesting english term here :D
The painting however, is Above Standard!! You have done a Beautiful job on the base colors and splattering 8)
Thank you Rick! We don't have a red face smiley here, which I need now :-*
Cheers,
Frank
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Following your build, Frank, with all the problems you seem to solve so masterfully, it is a pure modeler's joy. Great work at every aspect.
-
It is eye catching !
Fantastisch Ergebnisse Frank !
Alexis
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Thank you very much PrzemoL and Alexis!
Flames
For the stencils I had to use the decals. For this
- the fuselage was painted with gloss clear coat
- the decals are sprayed with Gunze Metal Primer (as recommended to seal self printed decals)
- decals applied (has problems even with those small ones)
- some silvering on corners fixed with Micro Sol
- decals protected with flat clear coat
- the red lines was available as decal, but I masked and sprayed them
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zKYFzawzGVsSdMLqp05l3gyQpCIz7Mx0)
All the other decals was read in with my scanner and I made masks of them in Inkscape and let cut them on my plotter. This was not easy, because the white was moved against the read, which I tried to correct.
At first I masked and painted the cross and the aircraft marking. So I had to change the paints in the airbrush more often, but it was not possible to mask all at once.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VRyEw8Uyot1kvDDYiuPt2hRWYLe4ZGvL)
After masking the flames (the fit was bad, I had to split the mask on one side) I painted MRP White and fit in the small stripes from the mask.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WQUh7vyU02juvPlbkOHaRmFwXae8H2WB)
After paint of Tamiya X-7 Red this is the result:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HwE5dzHAtq1LdNMcck2_sDWeyhH8zCcl)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SdExzD8affbN8gMTVGGMGBI_xxeGwtQY)
On lower surface it is more worse due to the frame for the camera opening.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nTPvPi4MuD_nb9DEJFC6B8DolXWZbgaV)
Not perfect, but I can live with the result. Some details lifted the mask again and again, which caused some trouble.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=101xhvsD1tNiWTv-DTQfNHaeCY2LwuvmQ)
For me is the handling of the kit decals is the weakest point of this kit. I'm able to work with them.
I would say that I would never have achieved this result with the decals. In this respect, I am satisfied.
This must now dry thoroughly before I mask again and paint the rest of the nose red.
Cheers,
Frank
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That masking job looked complex to say the least! I am sure you will get the touch up done with little difficulty. The flames really do make for a striking scheme!!
RAGIII
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That maskingjob wasn't an easy one. I think you did a great job.
-
It’s getting better and better — and closer to completion. You are doing wonders here, Frank.
Don’t break your head about the little overspray on the underside. That’s nothing a fine pointed brush wouldn’t fix.
Best regards,
Andreas
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Each time I look in I see more and more diverse skills on display. Your overpainting of the lozenge on the fuselage and then the flames are simply wunderbar! A real master modeller at work here.
Stephen.
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:)
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Thank you Rick, Ferry, Andreas, Stephen and Alexis for your continues support!
It’s getting better and better — and closer to completion.
But it's about time! I checked the first post - working on it for two month already. And I'm far from finish, with more details, paint and rigging needed. If then another month is gone that I can only build four models a year of that complexity :o
Need to save time and finish some of my shelf queens to reach my usual standard of six models.
Cheers,
Frank
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Keep up Frank! :D
Guy
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Amazing masking and paint execution, Frank! Well done! Marc.
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Thank you Rick, Ferry, Andreas, Stephen and Alexis for your continues support!
It’s getting better and better — and closer to completion.
But it's about time! I checked the first post - working on it for two month already. And I'm far from finish, with more details, paint and rigging needed. If then another month is gone that I can only build four models a year of that complexity :o
Need to save time and finish some of my shelf queens to reach my usual standard of six models.
Cheers,
Frank
Shame on you! Modelling is a challenge, not a hobby, and if you won‘t finish your usual 6 models per year, I won’t ever talk to you again! >:( ::) :)
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A truly difficult masking job, but the results aren't bad. You probably know this, but you can seal mask edges if you paint with the same color as what is under the mask before painting the second color.
Your speckled paint job is great.
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Thank you Guy, Marc, Andreas and Ken!
Shame on you! Modelling is a challenge, not a hobby
A hobby is done in spare time. So it would be better to work full time on the models.
A truly difficult masking job, but the results aren't bad. You probably know this, but you can seal mask edges if you paint with the same color as what is under the mask before painting the second color.
Even more worse - I wanted to cut a second set of masks with only the outer line and put it on top of it. Then when I was working on it, I just forgot about it! I am getting old :(
Cheers,
Frank
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Spinner
Not a big progress now, some time consuming things ...
The forward struts was still plastic, due to the complex mount. I decided to replace the too, with cut off the mount part and reuse it with a brass pin.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=186Kc7mDQjEA3ks8sbvwBPZAV1UCAQF_e)
Here the backwards V-struts hold the upper middle wing.The front struts are a bit longer then needed so I can adjust them later with the wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_p2zprVdaMqFJGDa9DYAtFcZt1D6rJNk)
But it was needed to mount them now to be able to continue with the cowling.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_AjzWHSYKGnRMpRMGBEoVhswLAyjqaSu)
Alexis warned me:
Have you test fitting the cowl parts yet ? Form other builds this seems to have a few fit issues . Or are you leaving them off ?
Alexis is a woman. And woman like shoes(https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/8.gif)
So I thought it is may be a better solution to create a shoe with gluing the parts on the front. After drying I primed and painted dark alu.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lf6KLPMSfvkrRKDg4Uvs1qj-Nk_0AHjH)
Now it is a red shoe. It needs to be painted now, because I cant paint it below the Spandau.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fcbVo_tvT7Uq0cFZChNYTN2uaVr725jO)
The I tried to get the shoe on, which was not easy. The main problem was the carburetor with intake pipes, which was in a wrong position.
After drying I noticed, that I made a mistake on the front, because the propeller shaft is not in the middle, but to late to be fixed without destroying more.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rlFDuTYsg3V4I6LxI8_2hx2fhlR7HgJS)
Now it was much easier to mask the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nDYqNKtLbYBsJ3WzHeLQFbYZVOG4o9Ig)
The kit provides two spinners, one fits to the airscrew, but both are very small.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10PX7VgeutyNvoEyB_2fRMONrVdQH-2o1)
Since rotation-symmetrically constructed part, I decided to turn a new one from brass on my lathe.
This was not easy, because it is very small so it hard to turn it inside.
I glued it with CA to a drill shaft and milled the airscrew outlets.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TCb2uMt5TgfPb_rLd5VSBeJFaArDFmWg)
For the final shape I used files. The head of the spinner has inside a 1mm hole drilled already on the lathe for a easy symmetrical mounting. The backplate on the right is made from nickel silver (soldered a piece on piano wire and turned it on the lathe; de-soldered again).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qmmFU2ijYBXTILjB8eWBhQG4tMjUltyf)
Looks much nicer! It is still a bit smaller in diameter, compared to the drawings.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kog3z_ZExOAoQs-dFf0PI71VXE4Qh1u_)
But it mostly hides my mistake on the front.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1snN-Kv6JlRgwOLOTi7wk6jmFWW_p8MFt)
The spinner is tinned and all is plugged together for a motivational dry fitting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Oaz3yZ4mCgiExAOGfBRljqYIARPKdIH4)
Many prepared parts will hopefully soon form a biplane!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wWEPgKBkBlM3KFdzFJC0doDP1aqRX05U)
Next step is painting red again ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Great update Frank :)
You go so much further than I ever would have the nerve to do!
Guy
Ps I’m going to hide behind the sofa now while Alexis comments on your shoes post :o
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Nice work Frank. I really like the spinner and how you made it. Top job.
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Thank you Guy and Ferry!
Ps I’m going to hide behind the sofa now while Alexis comments on your shoes post :o
Is there enough space? May be I should join!
Cheers,
Frank
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Nice solution for fitting the cowl Frank as well as turning a new spinner . :) Like the way how you did the front Cab struts , will be much stronger then the plastic parts .
It is true , We do love our shoes !
Alexis
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Your usual Wizardry on the struts and especially the spinner ! You are in a league of your own Frank!
RAGIII
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Thank you Alexis and Rick!
It is true , We do love our shoes !
Guy, we no longer need to hide behind the sofa and can crawl forward again!
Fuselage details
After red painting I could add the remaining details to the fuselage.
The kit contains a blast protector a PE, but it is much to big and do not fit. Here tinned.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zVl3Y-C9T90NEaImlQdpkHQVT0p1J_GT)
After modification I blacked it the chemical way and mounted it. For the hole in the cowling I created a maintenance cover. I forgot to mention: the hole on the other side was closed prior painting with some polystyrene.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15yAtnCjVOY8XoGoMpp46Mykj1ls1jJVC)
The camera hole on lower surface is closed now. I forgot to paint the lid.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1n62VIIQ8MK1Bjrrg_SLKqY1Pts2XoZIa)
Two little PE parts form the step to enter the cockpit.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wpo72GEFAr-1xxHJ9NjH7taPl-ZGrQe-)
The exhaust was painted with Alclad Steel, Gunze H453 Rust Red and Alclad Exhaust Manifold. In real it looks much more metallic!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HzVJhdQoS9xXVVIbd7oi7pJaMJvUtfSA)
The exhaust was mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KYbTPLA1k5YKoL8NnSL3iHPwTh6Tz-b1)
On the tail I added my wooden skid. On top of that is a travel limiter, provided by the kit as PE. I added a little "rubber bumper".
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19epuTwCGGdRYCl4tXGj8TYyMemd0DwYC)
A little instrument ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ifk_tIdIPMQn7uTEDWxI-wPDdVOENh1Q)
... was added in front of the pilot. The leather strip was repainted. Oh yes, I need to clean some filing!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RRknpbAZZKUa02DsV0DytOk5IQm4_BeB)
The gunners ring is also mounted. It was hard to get in place in the right position. The front strut was a closed triangle, but then the ring is too high. It needs to be shortened very much on top, then it fits (two independent struts). This is also correct for early CL.II, the later ones uses a X-strut.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sxe3BlpCAvTwkfuvAFRp0_gtJFafCwCL)
And the final impression of the actual state. The fuselage is finished so far, but some paint fixes of the grey green are needed.
Regarding the red: I painted the metal parts with aluminum before, so now it is darker on the metal parts than on the "wood" parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bcxNUOMvVNwIzb6A9TFUzcnn7xr6l6ID)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WOdeNWkVs6uTB0R2BFDojgcsTQhF0nQh)
This is a huge step forward! The number of remaining parts is going down dramatically.
Cheers,
Frank
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Excellent work on the gun ring! I like the different look of the metal panels vs the fabric portions of the red! You are making Me wish I had purchased a WNW kit..too late now :(
RAGIII
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That gun ring certainly crowds the pilot!... But I guess the Pilot and Observer wont have any trouble hearing each other.
Excellent job Frank!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Those smaller details are really bring this one to life ! Perfekt Frank :)
Alexis
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Frank,
That's "Craftsmanship" at it's finest.
Amazing work,
Kevin
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Every time I look in at your threads Franks I get jaw ache - where it keeps hitting the desk. I have put a cushion on the desk but it does not make any difference - your work is just stunning.
Stephen.
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Thank you Rick, Hugh, Alexis, Kevin and Stephen! Your comments are highly appreciated.
You are making Me wish I had purchased a WNW kit..too late now :(
Oh yes, the nice WNW kit ... The Cl.II done by Borsos in the Group build invites me to do my kit.
May be you have luck one day and find somewhere on a exhibition or another shop.
So if any of the readers her have a WNW Halberstadt in stash and wnat to get rid of it - please send it to RAGIII :-*
That gun ring certainly crowds the pilot!... But I guess the Pilot and Observer wont have any trouble hearing each other.
That was by design. It was a goal to have them close together for effective communication.
The front struts of the ring are sitting on the back plate of the pilots seat upholstery.
Those smaller details are really bring this one to life !
I really like the moment, if all prepared parts and details are coming together :)
That's "Craftsmanship" at it's finest.
Nice words Kevin, but here and there are small unclean points. I tried to build careful and correct things in between.
On the other hand I can try to do it better with the next model, or I can say "This was done quickly in the field." ;)
Stephen, your comments always makes me smile :D I don't want to hurt anyone, so a cushion is a good idea. Maybe horny skin will form as well ;D ;D
Now tailplane and lower wings are on. Every day a little step make me happy in these pandemic times.
Cheers,
Frank
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Hey Frank - truly exceptional work indeed. I'm just amazed that this thing is so small. Great magnification on your photos :-)!
Cheers,
Gary
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Frankly a magnificent build and paint job, Frank!
/Fredrik
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Thank you Gary and Fredrik!
I'm just amazed that this thing is so small. Great magnification on your photos :-)!
It is small, but as two seater it is a bigger one compared to most of my aircraft in the cabinet. The nice magnification is due to use of a macro lens.
I'm just preparing the next update - already enough pictures for the next batch ... Stay tuned!
Cheers,
Frank
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Mounting
I continued with the tail plane. After adding the rudder horns I noticed, that the middle part needs some support. The original shows some metal bands, so I added two metal stripes in cuts in fuselage and control surface.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10LkYn4alJgU7n6gFKNSTyuiZKskHo9Hv)
After adding the lower wings I adjusted the strut length on top of fuselage by help of the kit tools to hold the upper wing in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zGLUbOL_2XwXSjY9SawN9XQbX91n-cUU)
The struts are glued in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1L9swGMBkHMXu4OWbAJc6TfHiBdEP2g5h)
I added the fuel pipes to the header tank, bend the wind screen and glue it it place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19NXIG6mO4yjsHqmVwbnVZABO_Y-KHnMj)
I added the prepared parts to the middle wing, the leather is painted. Also some Gaspatch Anchor points for the rigging are in place now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uM1v-7xkq2W6VP69qYGhfoNpSch713-7)
Middle wing is mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TYmEjdoI5HA9wiloOvD6ag18Tc6mkjPK)
As I struggled to get the fuselage painted, I was already preparing the rigging - very handy for quick progress!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KNb5kg8f6R0Sxutg-i_aPP7vM138l4pv)
So I started the rigging, with Gaspatch turnbuckles of type "Albatros".
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gGVED1E1x3hqizIPObZgDSuUV2ETxAmX)
The lower half of the rigging is done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19gPqR3ieDSBqmoNBTxoHIzRjf3E5MZ9r)
I glued the prepared metal undercarriage in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yzI68GVyoXBzErfvygoUYInq-h1iU5rR)
That is also rigged.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ay_Oh1YygM74X1wzVS3dn5vJyQJCYRzw)
That is the actual state, only the wheels are not fixed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14wluXF1nZsjdq9yq005fHbqg5K-oLkXT)
I really like this bird!
Cheers,
Frank
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What can I say but Your usual Amazing work and details Frank? Simply brilliant!!
RAGIII
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Argh,
I wish I could mount wings so easily!
Beautifully done Frank,
Guy
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Thumbs up Frank ! :)
Alexis
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Its really coming together nicely, Frank. Up to your usual high standards.
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Fantastic clean build. This is going to be your masterpiece, Frank. Truely amazing!
Andreas
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Thank you Rick, Guy, Alexis, Ken and Andreas! I really appreciate your friendly comments.
I wish I could mount wings so easily!
Guy, it looks that easy because it is easy (and more important for me: robust!).
The trick is a good preparation with pins and metal struts, which can be done with care and slowly before. I want to avoid a stressful mounting process where nothing fits and breaks (this is already too much in my real life!). It is may be more work before, but it makes it much easier later.
If I see the small and thinnest struts with that tiny connection points - I have my strong doubt, that this can be build out of the box! And _if_ it survives the build process it could only be moved form the bench to cabinet one time. But I want to take it with me to exhibitions and meetings, so the only way is to build it robust.
This is going to be your masterpiece, Frank.
Andreas, agian? ??? I heard this with the red checkered Bristol Fighter, the stripdown D.H.2, the Sopwith Dolphin and Triplane, and now with this one too? For me it looks like those are on the same level. But every model has its weak points, I think there will never be that perfect model. That also means we can try do the next one better! ;)
Today I had also some ideas for further details, which are done now, and it will be a biplane soon 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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This is going to be your masterpiece, Frank.
Andreas, agian? ??? I heard this with the red checkered Bristol Fighter, the stripdown D.H.2, the Sopwith Dolphin and Triplane, and now with this one too? For me it looks like those are on the same level. But every model has its weak points, I think there will never be that perfect model. That also means we can try do the next one better! ;)
Today I had also some ideas for further details, which are done now, and it will be a biplane soon 8)
Cheers,
Frank
That’s easily explained, Frank: I was just polite until this build ;D
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Rigging
The ailerons are not yet under control so I prepared the arms. Instead of cleaning the thick rods I cut them and added metal. Below the arm it was thinner, because there is a pivot.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CVTRsTfT3m86YQz2kBTiMmT0hoBPkepp)
And mounted in a slightly different angel, matching the aileron position.
In the middle of them I added a wire, which was a field modification to avoid that the gunner destroys the own airscrew.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DkgZ5EmjY_GfLtPYrMLI4vfEuJCHgg2j)
A side view shows the control rods going into the fuselage cut outs.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cYctEIzfBV7fXOA9Q34FkPZTalKeiBs2)
The water pipes to the radiator are provided by the kit (0.9mm), but requires a lot of cleaning and are brittle. So I used 0.8mm lead wire.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1q8bb4fe0GO487C8derGdnLmleZ4LN0D6)
To hold the pieces together I had to create real hose clamps. I used a slightly different green, as shown in the Datafile profile. It looks also more interesting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hzapgRe6ee_7LfNVwJSCisQvnbdEBDmy)
And mounted:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1S4cdIs6DCOTqzsv5OqOQkbQ6zYfWy-yu)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_iad3I-fqLAEutypOEb-YCEoNwKslDvS)
The next step was to add the upper wings and finalize the rigging.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=150VT6p60LD3e8hRW4UdfKPychK5GcDYY)
The control wires on the tail are also done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13PG1kW6H1sTZNJViWEtMqZK3AYdhf2MS)
There is still some work on the ToDo list, but I hope to finish it this weekend.
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome attention to detail!
Cheers,
Hugh
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The water pipes look amazing....as does all of the rest! Simply Beautiful Frank!!
RAGIII
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Looking forward to the final results on this beauty !
Alexis
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Stunning work as always Frank!
Do you know what’s next up in the model stash?
Guy
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Thank you Hugh, Rick, Alexis and Guy!
Do you know what’s next up in the model stash?
Hmm, I should finish this one at first and avoid thinking about a new project and touching a new kit ;)
There are some shelf queens so may be I try to continue on one of them ..
Or try to build a complete resin kit which I haven't done yet. And I have many resin kits in stash so I'm forced to do it one day.
I forgot to mention for reference the used Gaspatch turnbuckles:
10 Albatros
8 One End
18 Anchor points
Cheers,
Frank
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That’s always my problem Frank,
Towards the end I start thinking about the next one and lose focus!
Guy
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It’s almost impossible to say if this is a 1:32 or a 1:48 model. Don’t loose focus on the last 100m !
Andreas
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I agree with Andreas - this looks much larger than it really is because of the use of your macro lens. I do not use such a lens because it would show all of my errors and badly fitting parts. You do not have to bother because your models are just sooooo good.
Stephen.
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Towards the end I start thinking about the next one and lose focus!
Guy, that is the reason, why I wrote I should concentrate on this one ???
Don’t loose focus on the last 100m !
I'm still running this 100m sprint ... not yet finished.
You do not have to bother because your models are just sooooo good.
Thank you Stephen for your continued support!
And now a question:
on the profile of this bird in the manual is a very small picture on this aircraft in crashed state, see left:
(http://modelnewsinfo.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/MIR481306_HalberstadtCLII_camo1.jpg)
Sorce: http://modelnewsinfo.de
Edit: if the picture do not load (since this is no https) here is the direct link:
http://modelnewsinfo.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/MIR481306_HalberstadtCLII_camo1.jpg
Below the picture is the text:
Halberstadt Cl.II 14277/17 '3' Schlachtstaffel 26b, spring 18, Bissighem airfield
crashed during take off, pilot Paul Schwarze (heavily injured), gunner Franz Schumm (killed)
Does anyone know this picture in better quality and can tell me, if there is a AirSpeed Indicator on the left strut?
It is may be visible, but the print quality of this small picture is not good enough.
The colored profile shows one, but the big profile in the Windsock Datafile there is none.
I could mount the Gaspatch one.
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-z0fnvjg/images/stencil/1024x1024/products/263/975/AS_24_01__44350.1588857506.jpg?c=2)
Cheers,
Frank
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Parabellum
In a last sprint I added again a lot of details.
At first some engine tuning for the Mercedes D.IIIa. I turned a sprue and added stretched sprue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17dxjAOmeDkmlZt8mQMKcGTymP03TY2xH)
Together with a turned brass part it completes the front of the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ViNWQgwGIovGnLGHVRTfHAgF_ZN4K63I)
The weapon for the gunner is needed too. Here I don't used the kit part but a Eduard Brassin with resin and PE from my stash.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EYMGu3it8cpO-2EPVVjUqsiUPkhuqiMH)
But for the barrel and jacket I used a Master set, which don't need to be rolled. Already chemical blacked here. Until now I have used only Spandau MGs from Master, because this is my first German two seater.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1L0kyJaOUOtU3tkcn3X7i3sw0E7QZdnex)
The Parabellum is complete, here on the Eduard manual drawing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hryxZAbREL6B7yXD0Lc-cRCbhujf6uOf)
I tried to mount it, but run into trouble. It doesn't look nice - the mount is the reason!
There is no kit PE, so I had to create my own mount. The first one made from a brass rod brakes so here is the result of the second try - used 0.3mm brass. Left the original one. I found also some wing nuts on an old Eduard PE!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13VMMOJFnUS1H6ViC0mo6L1ApXbfdoeUO)
The new one in comparison to the plastic block. I waited with removal until the new one is finish, just in case ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DhQNb2mHLsEfU4VYyErw1BCKDiSQf4lM)
Removed with accident and the new one mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lFHN_Zg1VdaQPDEETy2nrcZN46MCO1bI)
Now also the Parabellum fits.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IlbgFVW86zAO-gh6BObebioOaQcutc8T)
May be you remember my wooden spool with aerial wire? This needs an outlet. I replaced the kit plastic by metal pipes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QdOTDQOOcfjCI5F7viAkBX_QZnwWnw93)
After some paint I added the same wire as on the spool with a drop of solder as weight. Nice detail ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QT8qukKgDR5xYa-8MOiJnA6m6iJxUC4S)
And I decided finally to add a airspeed indicator (made by Gaspatch Models). The were grey green or black. I used black to have a little contrast to the grey green strut. My first mount was more filigree, but the this brass brakes, so I used a PE stripe.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CM2SywI8PfOoJ6SK7YnqmM9wxoLlu8yh)
And in final position:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vOuxYx_l46ebmXCn9dfyEDO12HX6Y9T4)
All the prepared parts are now mounted, for example the air screw, but I don't have more pictures.
The Halberstadt CL.II is finished now, so again a project come to the end.
Thanks for watching and commenting! This was a great fun to build this nice aircraft and I hope you had some fun too.
Cheers,
Frank
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Really Outstanding Build in all Aspects Frank! I did get joy out of watching!
RAGIII
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Great work Frank! Really fun to follow and both your photos and text really help showing the different steps. Even if most of what you do is pure magic! 😃
/Fredrik
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Cl. IV next?
Andreas
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Another master class in modelling completed Frank. Those extra details mark out one of your models from those which the rest of us make!
Stephen.
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That was a stunning and amazing build Frank! There were so many useful details and amazing techniques! Regards, Marc.
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I keep forgetting this is 1/48 :o
Amazing details!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Thank you Rick, Fredrik, Andreas, Stephen, Marc and Hugh!
Cl. IV next?
Negative, Ghostrider!
The Cl.IV moved magically very deep into the stash. My kit allows 3 markings, I do not like the "gas mask" face, another red flames nose (not, that is already in the cabinet) and a boring normal one. Let's see ...
No, I have so many interesting kits to build, let's see. And some shelf queens (https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/pffft.gif)
There were so many useful details and amazing techniques!
If one is useful for you, then it was worth the effort!
Cheers,
Frank
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Terrific build. I learned a lot from this. Thanks for sharing with us.