forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Fvdm on November 30, 2020, 04:37:03 AM
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Hi all,
This will be my first WIP on the forum and it's the Fokker D.VI in 1:32 scale. Searching the forum I cannot find another WIP of the D.VI. Did no one ever build the D.VI?
The boxart
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2066/OfKtlm.jpg)
I never build a Roden kit before so I don't know what to expect. I'm open mindend so we will see what happens.
The D.VI is build in late 1917 by Fokker Fluzeugwerke and consists of already available parts. De fuselage and tail is DR1, the wings are a small version of D.VII wings. The engine was an 110 HP Oberursel UrII. This engine wasn't up to the task and was replaced by an 160HP Siemens Halske rotary engine. Standard armament was 2 LMG 08/15 Spandau machineguns.
The D.VI was shortly in use and there were only 59 planes build of wich 7 went to the Austrian/Hungarion army.
The specific plane I want to build is the plane of Leutnant Kurt Seit of Jasta 80b. This the plane from the boxart.
I can't find a lot of info or pictures of this plane so I will build it mostly OOB. Maybe I'll buy some AM machineguns.
When opening the box one can find some decals and some plastic.
First the decals
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/6818/S64Xif.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3221/dUlFOM.jpg)
And the sprues
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3416/R0SFYJ.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5880/X6DRI0.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2189/R8Kg4M.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/8510/S0qGq1.jpg)
There is som flash but nothing serious
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7237/m0LaTL.jpg)
And also som great detail. Like the curved trailing edge.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7329/ANKx9b.jpg)
And some nice detail on the wings
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6573/QYzJcI.jpg)
So far the introduction, now on to the build. I'm not a quick builder so don't expect every week an update ;)
tips and criticism are most welcome. Thanks for watching
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Hello Fvdm:
This will be an interesting build to watch. I don't recall anyone on this forum ever doing a build log. I have this kit as well and bought the Aviatic 4 color Lozenge for the D.VII wings, they have to be trimmed a little but will work better than what the kit offers. I also purchased the 4 color lozenge for the Fokker D.VIII for the fuselage sides. I had toyed with doing this when I finish my Fokker DR.I, I still might. I won't steal your build log, but will follow along. Good luck and post on a regular basis.
Roden kits aren't that bad. They do require some modeling skills and initiative, like pinning the struts, some trimming, but overall go together fairly well and can use some aftermarket upgrades for a great looking model.
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I am really looking forward to seeing your build. This is one I will have to do in the future!
RAGIII
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I love the Fokker D.VI since boyhood days, when I made my own by kitbashing Revell's 1/72 Fokker Dr.I and D.VII. I have Roden's D.VI, too. Looking forward to see your build-log!!
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Hey Ferry, I built this one OOB a few years ago (it's over in the "specific aircraft builds" section) and it's a straightforward build. As with all these earlier Roden 1/32 kits the strut locations are perhaps the weakest point but quite adequate.
I used the kit lozenge overlaid with the blue and white Fratz markings and found all the decals settled down fairly easily with some MicroSol and Set. (Other Roden and indeed WNW decals can give major problems!)
Nice to see another getting built. I'll watch with interest.
Sandy
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Really looking forward to your build , not a subject we see at all .
Nothing wrong with Roden kits at all . They do have pretty good detail right out of the box and build up nicely , but like the others have said the decals could be an issue and you might what to seek replacements .
Terri
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I'll follow this with interest, the kit looks a great one from your pictures...
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A good friend of mine built the D.VI and from what I can remember she builds up nicely.
Enjoy!
vB
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Thank you all for the welcome.
The first cutting, glueing and painting is a fact. I think the plastic is a bit soft but not a problem at all. I have to be a bit more carefull.
First thing I noticed when building the engine is that there are no fitpins (is this the correct english word?). Nothing I can't handle, the fit is great. I also like the details. Some parts have some flash what have to be removed. Like this engine mount.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5139/12cE2G.jpg)
This has to be removed very carefully because the plastic is 1mm thick and break real fast. Dont ask how I know. ;D
Then it was time to start the compressor and paint the different parts. The engine is aluminium and the cilinderheads are gunmetal
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/50/S5sgN1.jpg)
The exhaust is copper en the pushrods are also gunmetal
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9578/AcDLqP.jpg)
Pedals, compass and I think the oiltank are painted aluminium
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2791/CKuocg.jpg)
The engine bulkhead and mount are also aluminium
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9765/0HaU4I.jpg)
When the paint is dry I can fit the engine. I will use a little panelliner and wash to show the details but otherwise this will be a clean build.
My story is that this bird is in a museum and well maintained by a couple of vollunteers
Please correct me if I use wrong names for the parts. I don't know all the parts names.
Thanks for watching
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Very Nice start to your project! I Like what you are doing to the engine so far!
RAGIII
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Just found this - what an interesting model.
Like Sandy I converted a Dr1 and DVII into one of these a very long time ago following an article in Airfix Magazine. This was an aesthetically attractive aeroplane so I will foolow along too.
Stephen.
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Fascinating project. I once started Roden‘s D. VI in 1:72 in those old days when I built 1:72 models, but I can’t remember me finishing it. This here is the only Roden kit in 1:32 of a WWI plane that I don’t have in my stash so it looks very tempting. I also think you did a great job on the engine yet, that thing looks really good.
Andreas
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So far the idea of building mostly Out of the box. I couldn't resist buying some AM. The MG's are from Master-model.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7076/AWIHlH.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2687/6V9zn3.jpg)
Luckily the jacket is already round and very sturdy.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1048/Cs8GXl.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/16/r6szxa.jpg)
I think this are nice and sharp details.
I also bought some seatbelts. I wanted the belts for the DR1 but they where sold out. So i bought the seatbelts for the D.VII. It seems they are almost identical.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6728/tjDtR3.jpg)
Searching through the different WIP's here I saw that the DR1 has some wood on the side's of the fuselage. This was quickly made with some Styreen and some paint. Before paint.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5885/3Tp0Xc.jpg)
And after paint.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/254/O41MWI.jpg)
When the oils dryed i sprayed some CDL on the rest of the fuselage. I don't know if it's the right color but I think it's OK
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/79/DTR77s.jpg)
The floorplate is also made. I painted the wood and some steel.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9586/B2qGgj.jpg)
O, I forgot to mention I also bought some decals from airscale. They are really nice. Here is the compass.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6328/X77bgM.jpg)
That's it for now. Thanks for watching.
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Excellent progress and great decisions on the Aftermarket parts! While you are at it consider the Aviattic cowling and PE. They are worth the cost!
RAGIII
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Nice wood work and a great start.
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Beautiful!
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Great start on this kit. I think we all have it in the stash. Check out Aviattic for a better cowling, photo etch details, a better rudder, and decals. FokkerNutz do a very nice control column, and Taurus do the best engines and also smaller details but Lukasz has shut down for the Covid duration. Gaspatch do turnbuckles and other details as well as machine guns, but you have those sorted already. Albatros Publications did a Data file on the D6, out of print now but you can find one on Ebay. Don't forget to fill in the central depression on the tailplane. Airscale decals are awesome aren't they?, Keep up the good work, you're doing great. Regards, Pete in RI
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Great work so far! This little bird looks like a Dr.I as biplane ;)
The Eduard kit of this type is in my stash, I think I will do it may be next year, once my D.V is finished.
Cheers,
Frank
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It looks like you have this under control! Great work so far!
/Fredrik
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Thanks for the comments.
Pete, I will see if I can get the cowling from aviattic but it is currently out of stock. I know there is a datafile of the D.VI but I think it is way to expensive. Normally a datafile is about €20 but I see prices of €40 -€50 euro. In my opinion that is way to expensive.
The airscale decals are real awesome.
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That is a wonderful start to this kit, Ferry, lovely paintwork and neat construction... I like your colour interpretations... The cowling can be fixed, it's not too bad... The Datafile won't add too much to your planned build, Roden got just about everything right! (But Datafiles are nice and great inspiration...). Regards, Marc.
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That is a wonderful start to this kit, Ferry, lovely paintwork and neat construction... I like your colour interpretations... The cowling can be fixed, it's not too bad... The Datafile won't add too much to your planned build, Roden got just about everything right! (But Datafiles are nice and great inspiration...). Regards, Marc.
Your words are mine, Monty!
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Nice start and interiors, excellent choice of mixed media MG: one of the best enhancements for every model.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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And I'm a bit further. It took a while before I could make photo's because I had to redecorate the hobbyroom. Now that's done I can fully concentrate on building. First thing was the engine. When the was ready I got this.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9360/ykcuqF.jpg)
As you can see I added some sparkplugcables. No mather how clean you want to keep the engine , there will always be some oil. Especially this rotaryengines.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2924/KiPzSK.jpg)
That's one part that's finished. Next job was making the seatbelts. When you cut a belt you just have to roll it between your fingers. It's a bit scary in the beginning but it wil not tear that easy.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2563/h0RKzn.jpg)
After quite some time finally the seatbelts are on the chair. They are very clean here but that is gonna change
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8594/Bdek2U.jpg)
The floorplate has the steering column mounted
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9927/03jZJ7.jpg)
After this I could dryfit everything in the fuselage. That wasn't a alk in the park. I couldn't close the fuselage propperly. After some time I saw what was the problem. The woodentriangle I made in the fuselage was to big. So I had to cut a piece of off it.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/971/YhFzbp.jpg)
That's better, now I can close the fuselage. First I had to mount the seat and the floorplate. I wanted to dirty the seatbelts a little but I went to far. They are dirtier than I wanted. Next time I must use a different methode. Anyhow, it is what it is.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2899/BFDugL.jpg)
Now I can place the last tinghs and then the fuselage can be closed.
Thanks for watching and merry xmas.
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Love that grimy look of your engine!
Best regards,
Tim
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Thanks Tim.
Today it was time for some sewing. I wanted to make some stitching under the fuselage but i was thinking how I could do this.
Option 1 was ordering some decals te bestellen at Archertransfers.com. I found a nice sheet but that sheet was 17 dollar. I think that is a lot of money voor some decals but I wanted it so I ordered some. That is until I saw the shippingcosts are also 17 dollar!!That's to much so I had to make some myself.
Option 2 was to mill the stitching in 5mm acrilyc, put some copperwire in it and thin aluminium tape to represent the cloth. That owuld give me a nice peace to use. I made a drawing in Autocad, loaded this in my program and milled the piece.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1773/9t0pLY.jpg)
The two pieces tape is the width of the tape as I want it to be. I put some 0.2mm copper wire in the grooves and then some tape over it. Well, it wasn't what I wanted so I had to come up with another solution. Eventually I toke some 0,13mm thick styreen and taped it over the grooves.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/467/awMw4l.jpg)
Then I embossed the styreen with some tweesers and voila. This is what I was looking for. I cut the strip at the right width and that's that.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3924/nqYVAO.jpg)
I have to trim it a little bit but it's looking good
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1027/7OrYtm.jpg)
I think that when I put some lozenge over this and I paint the "wires" it's looking real nice.
Thanks for watching,
Ferry
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Ferry,
That is a very creative solution. Thanks for sharing the idea.
Kevin
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only just found this build but loving it so far, the wood effect is awesome and with all the details you're adding this is gonna be a great looking build
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That is a creative solution for the lacing . Cockpit has some really nice visual tones , most excellent :)
Alexis
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Impressive technique for the stitching! Looking terrific!
RAGIII
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Thanks for the comments.
In the meantime I glued de fuselage and I'm prepping everything for some black paint. I want everything painted black ( this sounds somewhat familiar :D) before decalling because I think it's less noticable when a decal isn't 100% perfect.
At first I have a pic of the seat in the cockpit to show the seatbelts. I think they are in a nice natural way. If not, please say so.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3021/qg9ZaQ.jpg)
The stains on the seat are made with a light leather color and are sponged on the chair
The horizontal stabilisor and the elevators are glued and the control horns got holes drilled in it of 0,3mm.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4633/r6axW4.jpg)
The wing between the wheels is glued and the wheels are on the axles.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8356/n7rX3m.jpg)
The wings are glued together but I forgot to take a pic of it. When I dry-fitted the cowling I noticed that the engine didn't fit. I expected this so I toke the proxxon and a round bit and sanded the cowling on the inside till the engine fitted. Luckily I don't have to sand the engine. Now it fits. The Aviattic cowling is still out of stock so i will use the kit one because I don't want to wait for it.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/508/JpMwqY.jpg)
The fuselage
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6629/ZZh55U.jpg)
The seem on the back of the fuselage is completly gone. The paint will show if I'm correct.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2224/dsQnoO.jpg)
Thanks for watching.
Ferry
(ps, sorry guys for not showing pics but links. pics are available now)
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Nice progress, Ferry. Modifications look good and clean.
Best,
Tim
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Motoring right along nicely :)
Alexis
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Coming along very nicely! I am certainly inspired by your work and must do a DVI someday!
RAGIII
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Beautiful, interesting, inspiring!
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For those modelers who want to use the fuselage stitching technique shown on page two but do not have a milling machine. There is an alternative available in photoetch. Look at the photos on the Aviattic Decal website under 1/48th scale accessories. Here you will see six types of Fokker D.VII photoetch sets. The common fret has a strip, with angled slots, which can be used for embossing .005 inch (.13mm) styrene or used as a mask with thick paint. A quicker method might be to lay a sheet of wax paper over the sheet styrene that is placed above the photoetched slotted strip. Then use a clothes iron to melt the plastic into the slots.
The fret also contains another strip with raised angled stitching.
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In the meantime I glued de fuselage and I'm prepping everything for some black paint. I want everything painted black ( this sounds somewhat familiar :D) before decalling because I think it's less noticable when a decal isn't 100% perfect.
A little warning:Do you plan to use Aviattic decals? Most of them are transparent and will not work on black!
At first I have a pic of the seat in the cockpit to show the seatbelts. I think they are in a nice natural way. If not, please say so.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3021/qg9ZaQ.jpg)
Hmm, I think the thin alu of the seat would not hold the pilot, so the belts should come from the frame behind the seat? May be the belts are mounted on the middle strut, can't see it.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Frank
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Nice progress, Ferry. Modifications look good and clean.
Best,
Tim
Thanks Tim
Motoring right along nicely :)
Alexis
Thank you Alexis
Coming along very nicely! I am certainly inspired by your work and must do a DVI someday!
RAGIII
Thanks RAGIII
Beautiful, interesting, inspiring!
Thank you
For those modelers who want to use the fuselage stitching technique shown on page two but do not have a milling machine. There is an alternative available in photoetch. Look at the photos on the Aviattic Decal website under 1/48th scale accessories. Here you will see six types of Fokker D.VII photoetch sets. The common fret has a strip, with angled slots, which can be used for embossing .005 inch (.13mm) styrene or used as a mask with thick paint. A quicker method might be to lay a sheet of wax paper over the sheet styrene that is placed above the photoetched slotted strip. Then use a clothes iron to melt the plastic into the slots.
The fret also contains another strip with raised angled stitching.
There are different ways to achieve the same result. I like the alternative you mentioned but that stitching is 1:48 scale. I can't see 1:32 scale. In the meantime I glued de fuselage and I'm prepping everything for some black paint. I want everything painted black ( this sounds somewhat familiar :D) before decalling because I think it's less noticable when a decal isn't 100% perfect.
A little warning:Do you plan to use Aviattic decals? Most of them are transparent and will not work on black!
At first I have a pic of the seat in the cockpit to show the seatbelts. I think they are in a nice natural way. If not, please say so.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3021/qg9ZaQ.jpg)
Hmm, I think the thin alu of the seat would not hold the pilot, so the belts should come from the frame behind the seat? May be the belts are mounted on the middle strut, can't see it.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Frank
I will be using the kit decals for this build Frank. The belts are indeed mounted on the middle strut. Thanks for the input.
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Lovely progress, Ferry! Some great colour combinations and neat modelling... Great details too... Regards, Marc.
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Thanks Marc.
After spraying black it was time to assemble the MG's. After a carefull look I saw on top of the MG some text. Hardly readable but the piece is almost 2mm wide.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/338/887PUa.jpg)
After a lot patience, a total white background (to see the parts when they jump out of the tweezers, and a fully secured workarea this is the result.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7744/6T11zj.jpg)
And in comparison with the kit one
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5499/5vwrXj.jpg)
Now I have some questions for you guys/girls. The visor of the MG is out of centre, see pic below.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2388/1SU2m6.jpg)
This brings the following questions to my mind
1) Is there a visor on each MG?
2) If so, are the visors on the outside, the inside, left or right?
3) If there is one MG with a visor, on wich side is the visor?
Thanks for watching and be carefull with the fireworks tonight.
Ferry
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Very nice!!!
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Hello!
Please note that your aftermarket MGs are 08 while the kit’s MGs are 08/15. Contrary to the first look (“15”), they were available from the beginning of 1917 onwards. The German Fliegertruppe also used 08 until the end of the war, but check reference photos first if you care to use the correct Machine Guns for your model.
Best regards,
Andreas
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Very nice work on the Spandau!
The problem is, that this is a very early one called LMG 08 and will more match on an earlier Fokker Eindecker E.II/III, Pfalz and so on.
The cooling jacket, barrel and back part on the later ones LMG 08/15 looks more different, see this set from Master:
http://www.master-model.pl/product/am-32-023.html
So this set will more look like your Roden one.
Sorry for the bad news!
Cheers,
Frank
PS: Oops, Andreas was faster!
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Oops, I thought I had bought the correct ones. I think it's important to use the correct ones so I just ordered the correct ones. Thanks for the tips.
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Shot down by an anachronistic gun!
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Nice work on the Spandaus even if they were the wrong ones 8) I am sure when you get the correct ones they will be equally well done!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick.
The new parts arrived so finally I could continue with the MG's. First thing I noticed was that the back part must be used from the kitpart.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/8724/MyHsrs.jpg)
The differences are obvious, the cooling jacket and the nozzle at the end of the barrel are totally different. For the first one I used CA-glue. For the second however I used my soldering iron and that went very well. I prefer soldering above glue for strenght. When the first part is ready and the backend of the kitpart is separated from the barrel we have the following parts
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/576/q2dRzq.jpg)
When these parts are glued together it's time for the visor can be placed.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6825/Bw0Sq9.jpg)
When I was working on the second visor the part suddenly jumped out of the tweezers and is eaten by the carpetmonster. I decided to use the visor from the 08 despite the very small difference in diameter. At the front of the jacket there was a bracket to be placed. You can see the parts in the middle.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/258/ie0ARb.jpg)
I think these are very small but the artists who are modelling in 1:72 or 1:144 would laugh at this I reckon. As you can see there are two foldinglines and when the part is folded this is the result
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9771/lBDSbf.jpg)
I used a 10 cent coin so you can see the bracket, and yes, this one is folded twice.Last the mounting bracket had to be placed
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1583/wBS7So.jpg)
I'm not even going to try to bend the bracket because 'll certainly break it. O, the large chunk of Non-ferro is the 10 cent coin
And finally an overal shot
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8779/UTkVZ9.jpg)
Thanks for watching.
Ferry
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😳 GOSH! Tiny, tiny bits...
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Nice work on the guns parts :)
Alexis
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Your parts are huge ;D ;D in 1/48 the Master pieces are much smaller 8) The side clamp is really crazy.
The nice thing on 1/48 is, that the PE has spares.
I can recommend to black oxide finishing the parts, it keeps the details better then paint. But it has the disadvantage, that you cannot solder them (the solder will not get black).
See here (and two postings below): https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10717.msg208208#msg208208
Cheers,
Frank
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Your Spandaus' came out great! I am looking forward to seeing them blackened!
RAGIII
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Thank you all.
Your parts are huge ;D ;D in 1/48 the Master pieces are much smaller 8) The side clamp is really crazy.
The nice thing on 1/48 is, that the PE has spares.
I can recommend to black oxide finishing the parts, it keeps the details better then paint. But it has the disadvantage, that you cannot solder them (the solder will not get black).
See here (and two postings below): https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10717.msg208208#msg208208
Cheers,
Frank
If I understand correctly the burnishing needs to be done before assembling. That means that I'm a bit late now but I'll sure order some burnishing fluid for next time.
This kind of tips and tricks are why I like the forum so much!
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Yes, the (my) fluid will only attack the brass, so the color of the solder stays unchanged.
Same with already glued with CA - the fluid cannot reach the glue points (like masking) ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Great work on the guns... both times! 😉
Very clean modelling!
/Fredrik
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Great work on the guns. And another reminder for me, how much I love Gaspatch ready made guns... :)
Andreas
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The guns look amazing! I cannot wait to see the finished product.
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Thank you all.
Last week I was working on the landinggear and I started decalling the underside of the wings. I don't understand these decals from Roden because there where not enough for the topwing?? I wouldn't buy to much AM for this kit but I decided to buy the Aviattic decals afterall. I hope they are in sone but you never know with the Brexit. We'll see.
So, the landinggear. Th ekit parts are real weak so I binned it en toke the some brass rod 0,8mm en brass tube 1,6mm od x 1,4mm id.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2564/8r4JBZ.jpg)
It has to be a streamlined profile. I put the rod in the tube, the tube in the vise en closed the vise. When ready you get this ( I know this is probally already known but I just describe the method for the WIP)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2015/dunhq4.jpg)
For now I like it. The rod can be provided with flux and put in the rod again together with some solder. A quick heating with the torch and voila.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/8461/0nVsag.jpg)
When I got 4 tubes I put them in the small wing and glued it with 2 components glue............
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/8730/NuCkf9.jpg)
For sure this is real sturdy. Now I can make the struts for the wings.
Thanks for watching.
Ferry
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Impressive work on the gear! This is something I need to learn soon ::) Looking forward to more!
RAGIII
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Metal struts are always a good option in my opinion, well done!
If you like a more aerofoil shape: for scale 1/32 our member Flugzeugwerke offers a tool on shapeways.com:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/N6N2WG6JA/1-32-fokker-d-vii-quot-strut-smasher-quot-tool
In 1/48 it is not so easy, but a colleague with a 3D-printer helped me.
Cheers,
Frank
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That's a real nice tool Frank. I only wonder if the plastic is durable enough. I'll order one nevertheless and give it a try.
Impressive work on the gear! This is something I need to learn soon ::) Looking forward to more!
RAGIII
Everyone can do this Rick. You only need some tube and a vise.
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Yikes, that's fine work on the Spandaus! Those undercarriage legs look so sturdy and beautifully in scale... nicely done, Ferry! ATB, Marc.
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Thanks Marc
The work continued with the wheels. I tried to allign them but the wheels are on a plastic axle. Plastic isn't real strong So I made brass axles.
Startingpoint
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4116/CvaInI.jpg)
The wheel had to be alligned so I used my glass plate (I cut my PE on this) and i made a jig so the axle can be placed at 90 degrees
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9695/XcmCMi.jpg)
The anvil is there to make sure the jig stays at the right place. An anvil is a great tool to have. More later
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1395/X4EjyH.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1415/fBOxay.jpg)
I think the UC is sturdy enough now. While waiting for the Aviattic decals I worked on the N-struts. The N-struts in the kit are really weak so I toke some brass tube of 1,4 and made my own N-struts.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3887/r9j0or.jpg)
The holes in the wings needed to be cleared and then the N-struts could be placed.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6290/HfutDW.jpg)
This is real sturdy. Unfortunately you can't feel it but I have a nice piece of tool to show you. The following picture is not for the people with a weak heart ;)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2686/sK5pCS.jpg)
If the wings can carry an anvil then it's strong enough, right?
The wings weigh 47,7 grams, 1,68 oz
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/961/wZt9lr.jpg)
and the anvil weighs 500,9 gras, 17.67 oz, more then 10 times the weight of the wings.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6270/e5aTmT.jpg)
I think this will never break so I'm happy
Thanks for watching.
Ferry
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Wonderful job on those struts, Ferry.
Kevin
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Looking good ;)
Alexis
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That photo with the weight is incredible ;D Great work on the struts Ferry!
RAGIII
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Great and clean work!
And I've never seen an anvil on a model before. You show in an impressive way how you trust your work!
And Yes, I also like robust models that can easily withstand prolonged transport.
Cheers,
Frank
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Very fine work on MGs and struts. The anvil test resembles the static tests on made real planes with lots of sand bags :D
Looking forward to following steps.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Nice work with the metal parts - a great improvement in strength.
Funny thing about the Model Master stuff. At Sprue Bros here in the US, the entire MM Spandau machine gun ( PE, turned metal, and resin) is cheaper than just the PE and turned metal parts alone. Go figure.
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Metal struts are always a good option in my opinion, well done!
If you like a more aerofoil shape: for scale 1/32 our member Flugzeugwerke offers a tool on shapeways.com:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/N6N2WG6JA/1-32-fokker-d-vii-quot-strut-smasher-quot-tool
In 1/48 it is not so easy, but a colleague with a 3D-printer helped me.
Cheers,
Frank
Hi Frank,
It does seem to be a handy strut tool although I wonder how long it would last.
Also it's limited as to to the size of strut it can create.
Sadly it is difficult to find these days, but the 'Strutter' from 'Albion Alloy's' is the tool I use.
You can create any size of strut and any length and it's made of steel so will last,
Mike
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Thank you all.
Your parts are huge ;D ;D in 1/48 the Master pieces are much smaller 8) The side clamp is really crazy.
The nice thing on 1/48 is, that the PE has spares.
I can recommend to black oxide finishing the parts, it keeps the details better then paint. But it has the disadvantage, that you cannot solder them (the solder will not get black).
See here (and two postings below): https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10717.msg208208#msg208208
Cheers,
Frank
If I understand correctly the burnishing needs to be done before assembling. That means that I'm a bit late now but I'll sure order some burnishing fluid for next time.
This kind of tips and tricks are why I like the forum so much!
Hi Ferry,
Initially I used 'Master' brass machine guns, but as you've found, they can be problematic, regards soldering and blackening. That's why I switched to using the resin weapons from 'GasPatch', which I think are just as good and with none of the brass disadvantages,
Mike
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Metal struts are always a good option in my opinion, well done!
If you like a more aerofoil shape: for scale 1/32 our member Flugzeugwerke offers a tool on shapeways.com:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/N6N2WG6JA/1-32-fokker-d-vii-quot-strut-smasher-quot-tool
In 1/48 it is not so easy, but a colleague with a 3D-printer helped me.
Cheers,
Frank
Hi Frank,
It does seem to be a handy strut tool although I wonder how long it would last.
Also it's limited as to to the size of strut it can create.
Sadly it is difficult to find these days, by the 'Strutter' from 'Albion Alloy's' is the tool I use.
You can create any size of strut and any length and it's made of steel so will last,
Mike
Mike, if I'm correct the strutter doesn't make an airfoil shape. Or am I wrong? I will try to make a stl-file of the tool. If I have one I want to mill an tool from metal or aluminium. But first I have to learn 3d :)
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I would trust our member Flugzeugwerke, that plastic is enough. He offers also other tools in metal (shapeways can also print metal) where needed.
I have a plastic printed tool for struts and it works. This 0.1mm wall brass tube can be formed easily.
Cheers,
Frank
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Yes it seems with most 'Strutter' type tools, its difficult to achieve a true aerofoils shape.
The 'Strutter' uses the same technique as I think the version by Bob Monroe does, in that a smaller diameter rod is passed through the tube, which is then 'crushed'.
The rod can be left inside the tube and soldered to form locating ends for holes in the model.
The 'Strutter' jaws sit in a vice and tilt as pressure is applied to the tube, which creates the shape.
The larger the tube and rod used, the more the jaws will tilt and the more aerofoil shape can be achieved.
Using smaller rod/tube combinations, such as we would use, means the jaws don't tilt as much as they'll contact each other sooner.
Consequently the shape achieved is more oval than true aerofoil.
I have used various stuff from Bob, but not his forming tools, so I can't speak from experience.
What I have had has been quality, so I've no doubt his tools work as well as any,
Mike
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Lovely work on those struts, Ferry! ..and impressively sturdy... Waiting for more! Regards, Marc
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I think it is very brave of you to test the struts in that manner....
Beautiful soldering job and great work on all the parts!
Willem
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Thanks all for the comments. I appreciate it.
The decals are in, within a week. Ik think that's fast from the UK. Thanks for Peter.
Aviattic decals are different than the decals I'm used to. These decals are quite strong en real elastic.
The ordered decals are transparent and therefore needed a white background. So out with the black and wite paint went on. Nothing excited so no pics of that.
When the paint was fully dry I started decalling. I need to learn how to use these decals because they react different then other decals. I need to decal big surfaces, especially the wings. It didn't go well the first time so off with the wrong decals and try again. Luckily I ordered some more decals then I needed. I kept the decals a little bigger than the surface and when fully dry i cut the excess whith a new scalpel. It isn't my best work but I leave it as it is, I can't get it better at the moment.
Some pics.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1531/yxN5Ki.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9643/aipo4T.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/6971/QW69TO.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9268/N9kMEY.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3268/Fd3rk5.jpg)
As you can see the decals lay down really well. I didn't need any SOL for that. You can also see the things that didn't go as I wanted. I couldn't get the wingtips laying down so I cutted these of and used small pieces. This was better, using smaller pieces.
And a pic as it is now.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5441/lfToZS.jpg)
Can I ask how you guys use the Aviattic decals? Large pieces or just small pieces?
Thanks for watching.
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I have not done many models with lozenge fabric, but at least one Fokker D.VII in 1/48.
I used the Aviattic, with has some cloth width as in real on it:
(https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/1/8/1/979181-41450-54-pristine.jpg)
The Fokker D.VII Anthology has some exact sketches, how this cloth stripes was applied. For example they avoid a joint on the ribs for robustness.
So I had to cut a small piece on each side (for the "unvisible" joint and added them stripe by stripe:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10098.msg186087#msg186087
I was really surprised, how much the drawings matches the Aviattic lozenge pattern and the Eduard wings!
Cheers,
Frank
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Can I ask how you guys use the Aviattic decals? Large pieces or just small pieces?
Thanks for watching.
Hi Fvdm,
'Aviattic' decals, as you've found, are different to standard silk or inkjet printed decals.
They are tougher and can be stretched a little to align edges and joints.
I've found that the usual decal setting solutions are not needed and in fact have little effect on the decals, I think due to the nature of the carrier film used.
The main thing is to apply the decals onto a sooth and gloss surface.
The slightest surface imperfections, like hair, dust, scratches etc, will show through the decal.
The decals are either 'white' or clear'. The 'white' are created on a white background so the base colour on the model doesn't show through.
The 'clear' are translucent, so the base colour will show through. Therefore different base colours can be applied along with pre-shading before the 'clear' decals are applied.
I've found that larger areas are best covered with cut segments of the decal, otherwise you can end up with creases or 'fold over' of the decal.
When positioning one decal against another, make sure the edges are aligned exactly with no overlap.
Otherwise either the model base colour will show or the decal overlap will be darker (double thickness of the decal).
As for areas that are difficult to get the decal to conform, such as edges with tight curves, I use 'Tamiya' X20A thinners, applied sparingly by brush.
This effectively melts the decal and shrinks it onto the model edge.
Apply carefully as too much or continual brushing will damage the decal.
Where air is trapped under raised detail (as seen in your 4th photo - strut locations) and 5th photo (holes), prick through the decal and apply X20A.
The decal will shrink back and with holes, conform into the hole.
When applying light and dark decal, such as on a wing with upper surface darker decal than the undersides, apply the lighter colour decal first.
In that way any overlap of the decals will not be so obvious.
At scalloped edges, such as wing trailing edges, wait until the decal has dried then use a fine sander to remove any overhanging decal.
You can seal the sanded edges with X20A if any decal has detached.
Mike
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Mike has given you some good advice. Having done a few Albatros and Fokker DVII wings I like to use perhaps three or four pieces . I find the seam and cut the decals to line up the pattern on each side. Your DVI actually looks good considering it is your first effort!
RAGIII
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Some great progress and info here! Watching carefully... ATB, Marc
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A hairdryer is a great tool when using Aviattic decals (just be careful not to melt the plastic).
Andreas
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A hairdryer is a great tool when using Aviattic decals (just be careful not to melt the plastic).
Andreas
Yep, The hair dryer works wonders!
RAGIII
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Thanks for al the tips, I wil try them the next time because now I have used 1,5 sheet of Aviattic linnen for top surfaces and I think that's enough.
Ok, the Aviattic declas are on and I sprayed two clear coats because the sides of the fuselage needs two black area's. Normally I detack the tape very wel and so I did this again. One piece of tape was not good so geuss what happened when I carefully pulled this of? >:( >:(
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3879/lFAtDL.jpg)
I picked up the fuselage (carefully) and placed it on the shelf ( carefully). After I was a bit more relaxed I toke the fuse again and pulled of the remaining decals. First I wil spray a new clear coat and when that's dry I will decal again. Then another clear coat and after that the black. I'm not very happy at the moment but I will get this done!!
New decals are ordered and geuss what? I will get a hole kit matching the decals :D
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Well I am sure of one thing. When you finish this one it will be one of your favorites because of all of the hardships you have overcome! Keep that determination to finish!!
RAGIII
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Well I am sure of one thing. When you finish this one it will be one of your favorites because of all of the hardships you have overcome! Keep that determination to finish!!
RAGIII
Second this :)
Alexis
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Third this :)
Frank
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Thats a great progress on the fuselage, mishaps are always obligatory. I think. I am sure you willovercome these.
Andreas
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This is looking great! I understand your frustration. One thing I have found in using Aviattic decals is to gloss coat at least twice and wait until it is completely dry before doing any masking. I don't know how many times I have stripped them off to start over. Use the least tacky tape you can find. I have an old box of Parafilm M that works the best for me. It clings to surface instead of sticking to it. It was originally used to seal test tubes so you can find it in scientific stores. It is okay for making really simple stencils.
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I can feel your pain and frustration. So close but yet so far. With new decals coming you will get re-motivated to finish this bad boy up. It's looking good as it is so you are on the right path.
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I have been catching up with this - somehow I have missed a lot - and I too understand your frustration. The error with the fuselage transfer would be enough to make me want to give up, but having got this far and to this tremandous standard, you really must continue to finish it. In addition this is one of the less well known types - another excellent reason for keeping going!
Stephen.
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Thanks for the comments folks.
Hi , I'm still alive :D . With babysteps in a snails pace there is some progres. This kit keeps fighting me and then the pace disapears. I keep on going because this one needs finishing, I don't have a shelff of doom in my room. The bottom wing is glued and also the struts. Of course with a lot of dryfitting, espaecially the struts on the fuselage. It needed some efforts to get them even but they are okay now.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2434/CPqdqF.jpg)
A little from the top.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8122/Xx6NwM.jpg)
I made the ribtapes from the same lozenge as the top of the wings. I used these for the top and the bottom. To be correct I needed some lozenge printed on white paper but my wallet was empty. I bought anough decals for this one. Sorry
And for last a picture with the top wing in front with the bottomside up. I know it can be done much better and the next time I will but for now it's enough. I learned an awefull lot using these decals and doing it again and again. For now i need to go on and finish this one.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5787/P9gfH7.jpg)
Thanks for watching and until the next update
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It is great to see you have progressed to a point you are OK with. I can understand not wanting to spend more money to replace or add more decals. I have to watch every penny I spend! For future reference post a request in the Buy, Sell, Swap section if you need something. I have a ton of WNW rib tape decals that would have worked for you and would have sent them at No Charge! That being said your DVI is Looking terrific . The black sections came out well!
RAGIII
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I really like so far , nice colourful and a great job on doing the tapes !
Rick is right about the buy and sell section on the site . I have lost count on how many times members have help me out with items when I mess up or in need . This site has the most helpful individuals anywhere .
Alexis
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Thanks for the offer. I'll try to remember in the future.
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Work continues. I sprayed the MG's in gunmetal
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8138/5wbJ05.jpg)
After that a little drybrush
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/2947/fagvcY.jpg)
The bullets got a little color and the endresult
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9746/hS20K4.jpg)
De machinegeweren zijn gemonteerd en de bovenvleugel zit ook vast.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3230/mNIMwz.jpg)
This picture isn't taken directly from the front as far as I can see and that's the reason why it seems that the MG's aren't alligned. I admit they aren't completly straight mounted but I think it's ok.
Here some pics made a little more closer so the imperfections in the lozenge is visible.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4319/ziG5N1.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1195/bQg9qp.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/804/Yf8ONp.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4448/q31YSK.jpg)
The decals are placed on the bottomside.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/629/CeF3xq.jpg)
That's it. Now further with the decals on the topside. Thanks for watching
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She does look good with the struts and wing fixed in place . Fine job on the guns too :) Finish line is close !
Alexis
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Good progress!
You Master Spandaus looks great.
Cheers,
Frank
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You have done an awesome job on the wing alignment ! In Spite of any small glitches that you mention your DVI really looks great!
RAGIII
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Thanks for the positive comments.
The rudder, engine and cowling are in place and all the decals . Now quick a clear coat to seal all the decals so I can't damage them anymore. What a crappy kit decals. When the clearcoat is applied i can start with the control wires. I intend to use fishing line but can anyone tell me what color the control wires need to be? Black? Silver? I think black but I'm not sure.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/773/RdJX1t.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1411/qZaeAN.jpg)
Thanks for watching
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Your DVI is really looking Great! I could be wrong but I think the wires are steel, A steel color, black, or very dark grey would work. Others will chime in I am sure.
RAGIII
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Apologies for joining in, late!
With good effort this is a pretty good kit from Roden. Your certainly doing this one justice so far and is starting to look real sharp.
I agree with Rick, steel or even aluminium works well for rigging wires.
Regards
Dave
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Yes it's true , Rodens decals aren't the best but their kits are awesome .
Either way , you have done a fab job so far on this build . Rigging wires are a steel cable so black or silver or a dark metallic grey will work just fine like Rick mention
Alexis
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I missed this one lately so I have enjoyed going through the thread and catching up. In site of the problems with the transfers, (and Roden do not have a good reputation on that front sadly), you are getting close to completing a cracking model. I really like the colour scheme - the black is really good.
Stephen.
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I concur, this is turning out great. You overcame the obstacles with the decals, pressed on and now the end is in sight. Great looking model, very inspirational and one hardly seen. I always paint my rigging lines aluminum. Makes them stand out but not too brightly.
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I'm really enjoying this build, Ferry and you are doing an amazing job! I think your decals look great, when doing my DVII I found a fairly close up shot of a wing tip in a workshop... and guess what? Wrinkles in the fabric, some rather ropey stitching and rib tapes not quite straight... Your interpretation is very close to 100% correct! I think the colours are pretty good too... Regards, Marc.
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Thanks for comments. It helps me keep going on.
All the steeringcables are in place. When taking the pictures (I used a 100mm macrolens) I saw that I need to correct the blue. I will find a color that match the blue and will try to correct it. The tail shoe is also fitted and I can see the finish line now. I need to spray the propellor, glue the landinggear in place. I also want to dirty it up a little, maybe I cab hide some scratches :wink:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4928/Q3y92t.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8885/sFcq7m.jpg)
Thanks for watching
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Nice work on the control lines ! Finishing line is getting close :) Looking forward on the final results
Alexis
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Nice progress!
Your build invited me to get the decals for this marking in 1/48 :)
Cheers,
Frank
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Very inspiring build. Your DVI looks outstanding to My Eyes. Had you not mentioned the blue I never would have noticed!
RAGIII
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Those control horns and wires are incredibly detailed for this scale. You are clearly giving Frank a run for his money!
Stephen.
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Some absolutely great work going on, Ferry! And don't worry about those little imperfections, a OOO brush and a close colour blue will sort it out! And as you say, an ideal place for some thrown up dust and mud! A very impressive build... Regards, Marc.
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Absolutely brilliant work!
Cheers,
Gary
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Thanks for the comments, they are really appreciated
I can tell you this is finally done. The last details are added and the prop is done. I made the prop of mahogany and not a layerd one. In my first post I said that I wanted a clean build. Later I changed my mind and wanted to make a little dirty because of the imperfections. I decided to leave it clean as I first wanted and take to imperfections for granted. It wil remind of the difficulties and will help me in the future.
This was my first Roden kit and will certainly not my last. I think the plastic and details are great but the decals are crap. For the first time I used Aviattic decals and they have certainly a learning curve. But when you know how to use them I think they are great.
Here is one pic as a teaser, the rest is gonna be placed in the finished models section.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1117/waWyM3.jpg)
I want to thank everyone for following and the tips and comments. It has been a real pleasure to show my work and I learned a lot.
I hope to see you at my next project, a Bristol M.1c
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Beautiful, looking forward to the Bristol M1c.
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Very well done. I look forward to more photos! You have inspired Me to put this on MY list of kits to pick up.
RAGIII
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It has been a real pleasure to follow this build, and well worth waiting for the super completed model. Congratulations.
Stephen.