forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Paper and Card models => Topic started by: smperry on August 27, 2020, 12:31:00 PM
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I wanted to wait, but it is simply too hot to work out in my shop, so I started another paper card model. This is another Berg D.I in Autumn camo. My thanks to Marco, (Matt 77), for the file.
The cockpit pieces are hard to figure and the instructions, such as they are, are pretty sparse, so you are on your own in how to use them. Photos below are my idea of what works.
Here is what I think was intended for the cockpit control parts.
(http://i.imgur.com/0wfGw9C.jpg) (https://imgur.com/0wfGw9C)
And here is the cockpit with the seat installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/ipVzEEI.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ipVzEEI)
sp
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Following with interest SP :)
Terri
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Just couldn't wait, huh sp? ;D Looking good so far. Enjoy the build of this fantastic kit. You can look in on Dan's build log of the Berg too. It's the same paper kit, but Marco's repaint of that one is in the A-H octagon lozenge scheme. Keep up the good work!
Best regards,
Bob
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Bob
No I couldn't wait, too hot in the shop is as much an excuse as it is the truth.
I have both your build and Dan's up on the laptop for reference. Right now I am closing the cockpit tub slowly and carefully to avoid any twists that will mess things up down the road. That involves a lot of gentle holding the parts together until the glue grabs. I had no idea how many different places could itch at the same time when you have no free hands to scratch with. :-)
sp
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I ran into a problem I have noticed before. Paper card model designers tend to the minimalist. This sometimes results in a 90 degree butt joint. No problem if you can hold two pieces of cardboard backed paper at exactly 90 degrees to each other while white glue cures. Nope, I couldn't do that either. In balsa flying models this problem is often solved with a length of triangle stock glued in the corner of the joint. I thought about using some 1/16" stock, but a major summer downpour prevented a trip out to the shop. So I adapted and cut the square corners off a piece of card stock and used them to support the pieces at exactly 90 degrees to each other. Much better. Keeping these central structures square and true is critical to aligning the rest of the model.
(http://i.imgur.com/I7QVuA4.jpg) (https://imgur.com/I7QVuA4)
sp
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Ha! I knew you were bit bad! This will be a nice one. Much easier than your "second" model (and the P-26 too, by the way...not many curves).
I am working on my Dornier Arrow but chomping at the bit to do an Albatros waiting in the wings. It's all I can do to NOT start it!!!!
Dan
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Dan
Grit your teeth and try not to start yet...but put a fresh blade in your knife just in case :-)
Here is some progress on the Berg.
(http://i.imgur.com/4Rwpse3.jpg) (https://imgur.com/4Rwpse3)
sp
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That is really looking good SP :)
Terri
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Thanks Terri. Marek and Marco deserve the Lion's share of the credit for that. this is a beautiful ki,. my job is to just not mess it up.
sp
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Well, been a week or so since I checked in here and Damn, that is Nice! Looking fantastic SP!
RAGIII
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Thank you Rick. I'm learning. The very end approaching the rudder post is messed up. I tried to shave the edges of a slot for the rudder and just ripped the piece up. I will likely have to print another piece and splice it in to fix it. Paper card rule # whatever: Cut out tiny slots and holes in a piece BEFORE cutting the piece out of the parts sheet. This stuff may be cellulose, but it ain't the balsa kind. You can't shave the edge. You have to cut precisely with the piece fully supported by a cutting mat on a hard flat surface. OTOH, it wouldn't be modeling if there were no self inflicted setbacks.
sp
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I do think they are getting better and better...nice start!
I may do some cutting on the Albi tomorrow. Shhhh....don't tell anyone! :-X
Keep cutting,
Dan
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Thanks Dan.
I have about given up on plastic until the hot weather breaks. It is well after midnight before the little portable AC I have even starts to cool down the shop.
Good thing that paper card models are so much fun, I'd really be whining if there wasn't something to mess with. My problem with card models is not starting bunches of them and ending up with dozens of half built paper models, which don't respond well to hangar rash.
sp
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SP...
Satan, get behind me! I yielded to temptation.
It's an Oeffag D-III from the Italian Front supplied free by Marco. Flat sides!!!!! Coated with satin and ready...
I'll start this one and THEN do the curvy D-V.
Dan
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I have that kit and spaced on it being a D.III. Good thing I already gave in to the dark side and started the Berg otherwise I'd be giving in and starting this one too. Lots of pics please.
Slow work on the Berg. Got the exhaust pipes attached and the front radiator pieces attached. Just that external radiator plumbing and a windscreen to finish up the fuselage.
sp
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The tailfeathers were assembled and attached and some fuselage details were added. I still need to make and install a proper windscreen. I embossed the ribs and outlines which may or may not be discernible in the photos. The control horns are thin plasticard and go all the way through the elevators and rudder. I intend to rig it with mono line, twisted anchor loops and brass tube turnbuckles. I predrilled holes in the horns and will have to open them up after applying paint. I figured with stress on the control lines, horns butt glued to the surface weren't going to be strong enough.
(http://i.imgur.com/81gvyRz.jpg) (https://imgur.com/81gvyRz)
(http://i.imgur.com/UOy77Nr.jpg) (https://imgur.com/UOy77Nr)
(http://i.imgur.com/xm1L5qw.jpg) (https://imgur.com/xm1L5qw)
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SP...getting better and better. Love the tails too!
Dan
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Outstanding progress, sp! Good innovative modifications on the control horns, too. On the windscreen, you might want to wait until the top wing is installed, since the clearance with the fuselage is pretty tight, and you may need to make the windscreen fit the space. Just a thought (don't ask me how I know ;)).
Best,
Bob
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Not much done today. I cut out the lower wing panels and embossed the back side to emphasize the ribs. While it doesn't photograph well the ribs and half ribs look good in person, subtle but definitely there. Next time you are at an air show, go up to a fabric covered bipe, cock your head to the side and sight along the top surface....you'll see what I mean.
(http://i.imgur.com/XGvKd01.jpg) (https://imgur.com/XGvKd01)
Photo paper takes embossing very well, however it does not glue together as well as uncoated cardstock, so now I get to pay the piper and try to glue them together evenly.
sp
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The wing panels are glued, trimmed and the white edges colored. Fortunately they are not yet glued, note the stbd front wing root.
My daughter is most taken with the Autumn Leaf camo. She said Matt77 needs to embed one of those images that only appear when you stare at them. It would be kinds cool to stare at the wing and see Old Goodwin Brumowski peering back through his monocle.
(http://i.imgur.com/r8Har8s.jpg) (https://imgur.com/r8Har8s)
sp
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Looking very sharp, sp! ;D I agree that the Autumn Mottle camo is beautifully rendered, and perhaps Brumowski is in there somewhere, or could be. ;) Your build is progressing nicely, and it's really neat to see another one of these being built up. Enjoy! (I really can't wait to see you immerse yourself in the I'lya Muromets!)
Best,
Bob
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Thanks Bob. I got my DH.2 the other day, but I am holding off until I check out the I'lya when it gets here in a week or two according to Amazon.
sp
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SP...you are on fire. And the DH-2 will be super nice!
Your daughter is wise. What a great idea!
Cheers,
Dan
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Thanks Dan. You and Bob are fanning the flames. I got the U/C parts made up with the wire cores, but the wheels are not working out well. I will have to go to the hardware store and fumble through their collection of O rings tomorrow. This model deserves better wheels than I can make from just the kit pieces.
sp
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sp, don't feel bad about the wheels. I have used plastics from the spares box or rubber O-rings which I learned from Dan. I may get more adventurous, but I'm not a paper purist, and just want a nice looking model. Wheels are tough to do well in paper alone. Good luck with the O-rings!
Best regards,
Bob
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Bob
I made the schlep into town and proceeded to match up some O rings with the wrong size disc. Doh. Then I raided the Hobbycraft Camel for wheels and printed up wheel covers on typing paper. Worked great and looks better.
Next up is the struts. I will have to modify the wire cores some from what is indicated as my wire is too thick, (0.3 mm), to bend as sharply as indicated. Then I will have no choice but to plan the rigging.
(http://i.imgur.com/t8cEEoI.jpg) (https://imgur.com/t8cEEoI)
(http://i.imgur.com/bKEHkVY.jpg) (https://imgur.com/bKEHkVY)
sp
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Straight and true, SP. Looking very sharp indeed...love the wheels.
Dan
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Thank you Dan. It was hard to get it straight and true. I had to prop it up exactly how I wanted it, (very easy) and then not touch it for 6 hours while the glue dried, (extremely difficult). This paper stuff is teaching me levels of self control that plastic, resin and balsa never could.
sp
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Sp, nice solution for the wheels, combining paper covers with spare plastic wheels. Looks great! You are almost there. See you soon over in Completed Models. ;) Nice work.
Best,
Bob
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I made the schlep into town and proceeded to match up some O rings with the wrong size disc.
There may be a Rubber and Gasket store in Tampa (bigger city than your place) from which you can get any diameter/thickness O rings (as opposed to getting "close enough" from a hardware store).
Next step is to scale that beauty up to about a 17" wingspan (~1/20 scale), print onto tissue, mount the tissue onto foam or balsa, and install Radio Control equipment. Should be a great flyer!
Gene K
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Ace Hardware has more O rings than you can shake a stick at, Dummy here just took the full size wheel disc instead of the wheel cover disc to match up.
Does anyone know a source of aftermarket 1/32 Camel wheels? I need to replace the ones I robbed from the Hobbycraft kit, which were nice BTW.
sp
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It's wing mounting time.
Each strut has a 0.3 mm brass rod core that protrudes 1/32" or so from each end. Matt77 has marked the strut locations on the wings and fuselage. I poked a straight pin through at each location. After dry fitting the mainplanes into their holes in the top of the lower wing, I removed each one and dipped the pin in some Tacky Glue and inserted the struts back in their holes. I used the drawings in the Datafile to approximate the angles of the struts and then gave them an hour or so to set up.
The Tacky Glue holds well, but it is flexible enough to allow the struts to be wiggled quite a bit in order to insert their wire pins in the holes. Way more wiggle than you can get away with even for resin struts. As St. Harry said, "Know the properties of your materials."
The Pics below are with the wing just sitting atop the struts. There is much fit and fiddle yet to be done before any more glue finalizes the matter.
(http://i.imgur.com/CslFvjw.jpg) (https://imgur.com/CslFvjw)
(http://i.imgur.com/PA69FEU.jpg) (https://imgur.com/PA69FEU)
(http://i.imgur.com/qkUq5mF.jpg) (https://imgur.com/qkUq5mF)
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Looking really good, SP!
Dan
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Lovely sp! Almost there. Looks really nice! ;D
Best,
Bob
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You have become a Paper cutting, bending, and gluing Machine SP! Looks Lovely.
RAGIII
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Very impressive work! Marco textures make a difference with a competent builder. Well done!
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Thanks for your kind words. Marco really hit it out of the park on this repaint. I thoroughly enjoyed building it. It is all assembled and needs only to be rigged. And for no reason I can name, my lower back went out. Sitting hurts and bending really hurts. I just can't do any work at the desk or bench. I put the unrigged model in the display case to protect it until my back decides what it wants to do.
Y'all keep modeling on and posting the progress. The back can't keep me from looking.
sp