forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: kensar on August 22, 2020, 10:12:32 AM
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Strap in for scratchbuild #4 - the Avro 504. I have my eye on number 398 as pictured in Windsock Datafile #156. This craft was piloted by CW Wilson when observer Rabagliatti shot down a German Taube with a rifle to claim the RFC's first air victory.
A similar existing 504
(https://i.postimg.cc/3Rnc1GH3/Avro504-01.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have procured an engine from Taurus - an Oberursel U.0 converted to a Gnome Lambda. A simple conversion, remove six bolts from one front engine plate and put on two bolts on another engine plate. Let me tell you - this engine model has some very small and fragile parts. I was unable to properly make all the valve springs on the cylinder heads, but consider myself lucky to make the ones I did.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HxggRXK5/Avro504-03.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HsxCqpSS/Avro504-07.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1jYYDPf/Avro504-09.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTPw4jmL/Avro504-06.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Also new this time around, I wanted to make the wings differently from the past to reduce the amount of plastic sheet needed and reduce the amount of sanding needed to get the airfoil shape. In the past I have laminated sheets of 0.020" styrene to make a solid wing and sanded the airfoil shape.
This time I am experimenting with a simpler built-up wing. I found I could get a good airfoil shape by gluing a leading edge spar and a mid-wing spar to the bottom sheet, and gluing the top sheet to the bottom sheet at the trailing edge. When cured, glue the top sheet to the top of the spar and leading edge while pressed over another piece at mid-wing to make the camber. I can locate the mid-wing spar in line with the ailerons and wing to fuse attachment points. This lets me cut out the ailerons after building the wing. At least that's the plan.
A decent airfoil shape
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMCQLcb7/Avro504-11.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y6tMvMMS/Avro504-12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Testing cutting out the ailerons
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y2vcNrsH/Avro504-13.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Also, I'm putting a pilot in the seat. A RFC pilot in a leather jacket from CSM (#F32-039). I think his name is Reginald (he looks like a Reginald) and he's borrowing Wilson's plane for a joy ride.
Thanks for looking in!
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Darn nice approach to the wing construction. St. Harry would approve, I know I sure do. Looking forward to seeing this one grow.
sp
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Following with interest Ken :)
Terri
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Now there is a tractor aeroplane that I could be interested in scratch building. Nice and early and not kitted in this scale - ideal in every way.
I too approve of your wing construction - I will keep that in mind for future reference. The engine looks very good - will anyone miss the valve springs on the cylinder heads if they are under the cowling?
Stephen.
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Thanks for commenting Terri, sp, and Stephen. Should be another interesting ride.
Stephen, you are right about the valve springs hiding inside the cowling. Only 2 cylinders are visible and I think I got two good ones.
Here I have glued the spars on the bottom sheet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1XW9SX9/Avro504-14.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/C1s2chQs/Avro504-15.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Next, I glued the trailing edges of the top and bottom sheets together and let that cure overnight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yhhQHSD/Avro504-16.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here, the top sheet is being glued to the bottom. Glue is applied to the top of the leading edge and mid-wing spar. The wood blocks catch the leading and trailing edges with a weight on top to bend the wing around a piece under the wing near the mid-wing spar to give the wing some camber.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bJhM0D3v/Avro504-17.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It will take a couple of days to get through the wings. Then I need to fabricate the wing tips and drill holes in the ends of the spars for attaching pins.
Reginald is working on getting himself together for the first flight. He's a work in progress at the moment.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pd84nYQ7/Avro504-18.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JSsMwJL/Avro504-19.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Thanks for stopping by!
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Very nice engine and brilliant wing making technique, will follow with interest and wish you good luck!
Ciao
Giuseppe
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This is looking very good Ken! I like your approach on the wing, and will look forward to the finished product.
Best regards,
Bob
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A very great start on this Ken!
I will follow closely. After Richie posted the museums pictures some time ago, I found the 1/48 BlueMax kit in a shop and catched it immediately. But it seems to be a biplane with complicated details and rigging, so I can learn from your build 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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I do like your jig for the wings - cheap, simple and effective! I can see the makings of another first class build here - looking forward to more updates.
Stephen.
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These are tools I use to emboss the rib detail on the wing skins. I had forgotten how I did this on the last model, and had to re-invent the process. The 0.010" styrene sheet to be embossed needs to be on a surface with some give to it in order for the embossing to occur. I tried many things, but what worked the best was a piece of bicycle tire inner tube cut open to form a sheet. I embossed it using a drafting ink pen without any ink in it of course.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MGmJPcNK/Avro504-20.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here is one of the bottom wings in process. One can see the small blocks that the struts will mount into, along with the leading edge spar and mid-wing spar.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QxvDHZcs/Avro504-21.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Once again, a metal cowl is needed. The Taurus engine is larger than the scaled drawings I am using, so some modification will be necessary. Hopefully it won't be noticable.
The first lathe setup where the inside is cut out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6QXNfVHm/Avro504-22.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The second setup where the outside shape is filed by hand. Took about 2 hours.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VkM8tZFt/Avro504-23.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'm gluing the skin on the first wing now, with the others to follow. I need to show Reginald's progress, so that will be for next time.
Thanks for following along.
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Time well spent Ken . Wings are coming along great and that cowl is wow ! Can't what to see that finished :)
Terri
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What a lovely cowling!
Cheers,
Frank
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Yes that cowling is super. Sometimes expensive tools really are worth having!
Stephen.
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Another amazing scratch build in progress! I love your technique for the wings and like the others, I am impressed by the Cowling!
RAGIII
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Been following along and your ability with a lathe is amazing.
sp
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Thanks for leaving comments Terri, Frank, Stephen, Rick and SP
The metal cowlings are becoming a typical thing for my model building. I need to order more metal now as I have exhausted my supply.
The wings are taking more time than I expected as I find small details and mistakes that need attention before moving forward. I'm building up the wing tips on the upper wings and close to skinning the bottom wings. Pics will be in the next update.
Reginald has been hanging out quietly. I should check on him.
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Looking good Ken. Nice job on the motor. What lathe do you have? Lathes in the MicroMark catalog have been catching my eye lately, but it will be a steep learning curve to come anywhere near what you do. Regards, Pete in RI
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Hi Pete
I have a Central Machinery 7x10 lathe, a Central Machinery micro mill, and a rotary table for the mill. The Central Machinery tools are made by several Chinese factories using the same design. The MicroMark machines are the same basic design. I bought mine through Harbor Freight and had it shipped to my door. I would highly recommend looking at Minilathe.com to get a good feel for what you would be getting with one of these machines. They may be made somewhat crudely, but if you tune them up using the Minilathe website info, you can hold +/- 0.001" tolerance, which is better than one needs for doing this model stuff. You will also spend about an equal amount of money on tooling as you do for the lathe itself. This includes measuring instruments, gauges, cutting bits, etc. Its an investment, but it has opened up a huge new world for my modeling, and I also find uses for these tools to repair other non-modeling stuff, too.
Before I got my machines, I knew nothing about lathes or mills. I got started by reading through the Minilathe website. The website LittleMachineShop.com sells replacement parts and accessories for these machines. I get metal from OnlineMetals.com. They have the cheapest prices I have found. I hope this info will answer your questions. If you have any more, just ask. I'm happy to share what I know.
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A small update - still working on the wings.
Top wing with center section roughed out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QtqgK1d1/Avro504-24.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Both wings in progress. I think they are turning out quite nicely.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4yLzBGt3/Avro504-27.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The tips are built up from laminates of styrene strips.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J7Pc1NgW/Avro504-25.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W4gwjQR9/Avro504-26.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Reginald has made an appearance. Claims his zombie-like appearance is due to the effects of high altitude.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sgt4k3LQ/Avro504-29.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJpq0NmG/Avro504-30.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'm not buying it.
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Ken,
The wings are looking great. This is sure to be another fantastic build.
As for Reginald, I think he's saying, "Are you sure it's safe to fly?".
Kevin
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I do like your method of wing construction, which is very different to the one I used for the Gunbus solid wings. I am making careful notes from this build.....
Stephen.
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Hi Ken, I've been away from the modelling world for a while but hope to be back now.
I love how you made the wings on this one. They look tremendous. I'm hoping to visit the Science museum in London with my camera soon where they have a fine 504 hanging from the ceiling. Hopefully we can solve the riddle of the pulleys at last!
I will follow this with great interest. Watching a master modeller at work is very inspiring!
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I really like the wings with ribs and spars, great result! Kit wings may look not that nice.
Cheers,
Frank
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The wings look superb as always Ken! As for Reggie, High altitude and castor oil do have an effect. Looking good!
RAGIII
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I’m in awe of scratch building Ken,
Will follow with interest.
Guy
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Awesome work Ken. I am always in awe of the talent of scratch builders. Your wings look perfect. This is shaping as a great project.
Have you chosen a colour scheme for the 504K?
Following with much interest
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Thanks for stopping by, everyone. Your comments are always motivating.
I have finished the basic construction of the wings. Details and attachment points are left to do. I have also constructed the tail surfaces, laminating embossed 0.010" skins on 0.020" cores. Pictures coming soon.
Turning my attention to the fuse, which will need modification due to the larger engine than shown on the scale drawings I have been basing the construction on.
The color scheme will be that of C Wilson's 504 inwhich his observer shot down a German Taube with a rifle to claim the RFC's first air to air victory. It's a plain CDL scheme, with black nose, and only a number on the rudder - no roundels, even.
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I went ahead with the tail surfaces. They are constructed by laminating a 0.020" card on both sides with 0.010" embossed skins for subtle rib detail that will match the wing pattern to tie everything together.
Here is the core with the two skins. The drawn rib pattern is a guide for the embossing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXCfXDbg/Avro504-31.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hGkx3sT7/Avro504-33.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have cut the ailerons from the wing. The gray marks on the wing are scratches being filled in by primer/surfacer. It's not unusual for the knife to slip. >:(
The ailerons have many small hinges (7 each) I simulated with wire that I used to mount the ailerons.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5D664qH/Avro504-38.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The ailerons are activated by exposed cables, so pulleys are on the top of the top wing and bottom of the bottom wing. Here I am parting off one of the pulleys (0.100" diameter).
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qtc5L7JY/Avro504-36.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
One pair are pulleys for single cables and the other pair are for two cables.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZK4PSwg8/Avro504-37.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here are the wings mocked up with hardware.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SRrMRp5W/Avro504-39.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Thanks for stopping by. Till next time...
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I forgot about the external pulleys on the 504. That is really great modeling.
sp
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Truly remarkable work all 'round, Ken! I envy your scratchbuilding skills.
Cheers,
Bud
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Super work on the pulleys. I just wish that I could make mine in metal.
Stephen.
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Neat work on the lathe!
If someone has such a nice tool, he must use it - as you do in a perfect way 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks for stopping by SP, Bud, Stephen, and Frank. The lathe and mill do come in handy and because they are such a sizable investment, I do use them whenever I can.
I have the top wing together now and going back to the bottom wings. I need to start thinking about construction of the fuselage, which will be modified for the larger radius of the engine. I have done some drawings and the larger engine radius gives the plane a somewhat 'beefier' look at the front end.
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Truly remarkable work all 'round, Ken! I envy your scratchbuilding skills.
Cheers,
Bud
As always I agree with Bud! By the way thanks for taking this one on and stirring the Gods of Modeling into getting Roden to do one ::)
RAGIII
PS: I am sure they will not have such beautifully crafted pulleys!
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Love the details you do in metal Ken :)
Terri
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Thanks for stopping by, Terri and Rick.
Picture time
Worked on the lower wings. They are at a point where I want to work on the fuselage to get connection points and aileron cable alignment sorted out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hn2mvByp/Avro504-40.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Basic fuse sides
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpBqDdTL/Avro504-42.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Sorting out the interior structures. The seats sit on two rails that go through the middle of the fuse.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNypSc7d/Avro504-41.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The seat backs are aluminum, the rest is wood except for the control stick assembly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sX5s7VfG/Avro504-43.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/c1MdJ45V/Avro504-44.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L5RRVrhC/Avro504-45.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
A good bit of detail to figure out on this one.
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Really like how the seat backs turned out . I always have a hard time cutting these out ::) Excellent job on the fuselage sides and the start of the inners :)
Terri
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A real treat to watch this take shape! :)
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Thanks for commenting Terri and Jeroen.\
As you probably see, the seat backs are made from aluminum sheet. I cut them out to a rough shape with scissors and the sand them to final shape using a Dremel tool with a sanding drum. Makes quick and easy work of it!
I also discovered the cross members supporting the seats were too short (don't know how I missed that so far off the mark), so I glued extending pieces on the ends. I'm fabricating some parts that attach to the fuse sides before painting the sides. There are numerous parts that will go on after the sides are joined.
I also had a crack at making the control sticks from wood. The wood grain is not consistent and the sticks are slightly out of round, but not too noticeable. Not sure if I will use them or make them another way.
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Beautiful small details Ken. I know that much of this will not be seen on the completed model (which is a shame), but they are all worth adding nonetheless. Getting the size of some parts wrong is a skill which I am more than able to teach others....
Stephen.
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I regret not having looked in on this before, Sir! You could make kit masters.
That is a wizard trick with the wings. It could probably be adapted down to the Gentleman's Scale for certain subjects.
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Your wings and start on the fuselage are Awesome!
RAGIII
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Stephen - I think that skill is inherent for me.
OM - (I can't bring myself to type 'Old Man' because I'm knocking on that door!) I've have not been hesitant to try different things in my scratchbuilds.
Thanks, Rick. There's a lot of details to keep in mind when putting together the fuse. Just hope I don't forget something until its too late to add.
Thanks for all the comments, folks.
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Work on this has slowed down due to life getting in the way, but its not a bad time for that as I am waiting for oils to dry. After the basic colors are applied to the sides, some detailing will be in order before putting the sides together.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydHYyzKt/Avro504-46.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have changed the wood tone from the dark red-brown on the seat structure to the lighter color for the rest of the build. I think the lighter color is more accurate.
seat structure
(https://i.postimg.cc/vm9ZnZJ5/Avro504-47.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Control sticks will be the next focus. I don't like the first wooden ones I quickly made.
Thanks for looking in.
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The wood tones are looking great!
RAGIII
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Lovely!
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Most excellent work with the wood tones Ken , brings a nice warm feel to the build :)
Terri
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Thanks for commenting, Rick, Frank, and Terri. Work is continuing.
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Hi Kensar, that is looking great. I really like your method for doing the fuselage sides.
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Thanks for stopping by, William. This method seems to work well.
Update on the interior.
Basic sides painted
(https://i.postimg.cc/j250QMLB/Avro504-48.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Adding detail starting with larger items. I unfortunately don't have any period pictures of the interior. None in the Windsock datafile, so I'm going from restored planes which are different versions from what I am building.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFWQsX6v/Avro504-49.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
More details. The fuel tank and intake pipes are unpainted.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cCbqDf3C/Avro504-50.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'll soon be joining the two sides together.
Thanks for looking in.
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Ken,
Looks like you're making good progress with this build. What was the source of the throttle controls? They look great.
Kevin
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Lovely work, Ken.
Amazing!
vB ;)
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Great job sir!
Kent
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Not only the walls and details are great. I really like the subtle weathering.
Freshly built and the canvas already ruined with castor oil! ;D
Cheers,
Frank
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Hi Ken ,
Super job on the inner's , once joined up going to look even better !
Terri
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Thanks, everyone, for the encouraging comments. I really do appreciate them and it keeps the motivation going.
The throttle controls are made from pieces of PE that were glued together. The arc on the top is a slice of an aluminum tube. The pivot point is a PE dzus fastener.
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Super internal details - very realistic indeed. I agree with Frank about the castor oil staining - an excellent touch.
Stephen.
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'bout time for another update. Seems like slow progress this past week, but life got in the way.
I made a belt for the front seat and the foot boards. Reggie will have a belt on, but due to his arms, it will be mostly hidden. The belt is a relatively simple affair - made with masking tape and wire. The foot boards on the real thing have a stamped aluminum covering that has a ridge around the edges. I made these by gluing wire on pieces of styrene, then coating with fiberglass resin and painting.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhYNKXqv/Avro504-51.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZ3cCK5g/Avro504-52.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I got the fuse halves together.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tJjBH9Q/Avro504-55.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNwnKTwr/Avro504-56.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
One can see the air pump, which can be operated by either occupant.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8Cbct1sK/Avro504-57.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
A few more things to be done on the bottom side, then the IP will need to be tackled.
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Very nice and effective detail work!
Simple solutions are the best. Everyone can build a complicated thing, but it is ingenious when you can't leave anything out.
Cheers,
Frank
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That pit is really starting to take shape now Ken , excellent job on those floor boards :)
Terri
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Thanks for stopping by, Frank and Terri.
Frank - I think we have the same affliction - can't leave out any detail. Sometimes it's maddening.
Terri - Yes, the pit is really starting to shape up. Reginald will still fit inside!
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Great work, Ken!
::) ::) ::)
vB
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Some super details in that cockpit Ken. I really like that seat belt and the idea for the footboards is one that I must keep in mind for fitire reference.
Stephen.
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Your cockpit has taken shape nicely since I last looked in. I Love the belt and floorboards!
RAGIII
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Thanks for the comments, guys.
Finally making some headway after working on the IP and waiting for oils to dry.
I got the back of the fuse boxed in.
(https://i.postimg.cc/P5j2XCG4/Avro504-59.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CLDcpj25/Avro504-60.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kc19JXrn/Avro504-61.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Mocked up the IP. It will get installed and then the interior will be finished next.
(https://i.postimg.cc/59DsrPnD/Avro504-62.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Great results so far Ken the interior is a real treat to view and that IP is spectacular. Another "World Class" model on the way, stay the course!
Cheers,
Lance
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Wow brilliant work. The instrument panel is superb. It’s a beautiful model in its own right.
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Thanks for commenting, Lance and William.
I've finished the IP so, posting it here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15t72K7w/Avro504-64.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That IP is one of the best that I have seen. What did you use to make them?
Stephen.
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Ken, respect! A great job!
Cheers,
Frank
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Good to see you checking in, Stephen and Frank.
The IP is my usual build. The panel surface is styrene sheet painted with oils for the woodgrain. The compass at the top center is my attempt at the Type 5/17 compass (but in brass color) pictured below. The globe is a pinhead, the ring base is from the PE spares box, and the other parts are styrene rod cut to length.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d0Bqgz8B/type-5-17-aviation-compass.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The other instruments are made from Airscale instrument decals with the instrument cases made on my lathe. The lenses are clear 5 min. epoxy. When installed, the air pump shaft runs through the hole on the right side, and there is a cable (wound guitar string) connected to the tach on the lower right side. The airspeed indicator on the left side runs through the back of the panel, where I was prepared to connect the pitot tube up, but the connection will not be visible, so I didn't bother. The pulseometer is from Taurus.
I made some more progress since the last posting, got the IP installed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qghfbqV/Avro504-66.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gjnDRbzk/Avro504-67.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've just noticed the control sticks don't look quite right in the pictures. Needs a clear coat or woodgrain, or something.
I'm happy to answer any questions about the build. Thanks for following along.
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Amazing instrument panel! I could have been the real thing you were showing... Everytime I see the work done by you, and others, on a lathe, I feel a twinge in my "must have" nerve.
/Fredrik
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Excellent work so far Ken , love the compass !
I do have a question though . I know nothing of this type but if the connecting bar for the control columns is black , wouldn't the control columns them self be black as well with wooden grips ?
Terri
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Absolutely incredible IP Ken! Your work on the faces and compass is amazing as always. Your cockpit really looks fabulous and will be a good reference when Roden releases their 504.
RAGIII
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Thanks for the encouraging comments Fredrik, Terri, and Rick.
Terri - in the reference pics I have, the control sticks are indeed wooden with a metal connecting mechanism attached at the bottom. Some aircraft also have a two piece stick that can be disconnected (not sure why). I'm sure that over the years the 504 was produced, there were many changes made and trainer versions are different from home defense versions versus early types, etc.
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Thanks for the info on the instruments Ken. I must write again that they are eye-wateringly good.
Stephen.
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Superb interior work, highly realistic.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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I appreciate your comments, Stephen and Giuseppe.
It's the first eye-watering comment I've received!
I have the top rear of the fuselage attached now and waiting for the oil paint on the cockpit surrounds to dry.
I'll soon have to go back to the wings to add rib tape to the bottom surfaces and start test fitting them to the fuse.
Thanks for following along, everyone.
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No idea how I missed this masterpiece build... Great that it was mentioned in the Roden new releases thread.
Magic, magic....
It will surely be a valuable source of info, almost a photographic walkaround, for those building the future Roden 504 model - next year? ;)
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Thank you for the kind comments, Przemol.
I have the turtledeck installed on the fuselage now and was continuing with other parts of the fuse, moving up to the cowling area.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kj9Tqscs/Avro504-68.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have had this idea for quite a while now and decided to try it - engine turning.
I used a Dremel drill press accessory and a Dremel tool that is made for sharpening chain saw blades. It is a 1/8" round stone with a flat end. In scale it makes 4" circles, which is rather large, but it's the smallest stone of this shape I could find.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8kwLzsdB/Avro504-69.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I am using HVAC aluminum tape to do the engine turning on. This will go on the firewall of the 504. Beneath the aluminum tape is a piece of bicycle inner tube stretched around an aluminum plate. This gives the tape some 'give' and makes a more even pattern. The aluminum tape is taped to the aluminum plate with the bike tube on it (this is not shown in the pictures). I clamped a piece of wood on the base to use as a guide to make straight rows of the pattern, moving the piece over after each impression. The wood guide is repositioned for each row of impressions.
(https://i.postimg.cc/76n07ZF4/Avro504-73.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y02gxw7W/Avro504-70.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I screwed up a few times and had to reposition the piece to cover enough area.
(https://i.postimg.cc/286hbm2p/Avro504-71.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jdFNy9FD/Avro504-72.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think it looks pretty good for the effort I put into it, especially since it will go on the firewall and not be very visible. Next time, I will use my mill with its X - Y table to get more precise positioning of the impressions.
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It looks great Ken, and very cleverly conceived!
Thanks for sharing another scratchbuild secret.
Learning all the time!
Willem
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Impressive work as always Ken. The turned aluminum looks great!
RAGIII
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I like how the effect turned out Ken , very convincing indeed.
Terri
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Ken, that metal work is great, may be a bit strong.
I tried this on a smaller scale with a felt polisher, but it was not as successful as your method.
Cheers,
Frank
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Amazing work on this classic, Ken! I'm enjoying your approach to unique solutions... Regards, Marc.
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Thanks for stopping by, everyone.
The machine turning is quite bright, but I must conclude that this is close to how it looks. However, in scale, and after some time in the field with use and aging, it probably became quite dull colored. Nothing some flat clear wont fix.
In the meantime, I've been working on the fuse. I have pre-shaded it and started putting some color coats of paint on it.
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Apologies Ken for not being more observant - I am being distracted frequently at present.
The turned aluminium is very good indeed - very original idea to get the effect. The fuselage is also looking very good - a winner in the making here.
Stephen.
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The fuselage is looking great. I really like your method of pinning the pieces to the board. That looks very handy indeed.
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Thanks for commenting Stephen. There is a lot of things to be distracted about these days.
William, this is a RC plane building technique I have used. Thanks for stopping by.
I'll post a picture of the fuse in its current painted state when I get a chance. Work is getting in the way. :P
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A small update - fuselage painting
A test fit of the wooden panels for the top of the fuse. The early 504s have this type of cockpit surrounds.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CMs1x71t/Avro504-74.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Preshading on the fuselage. I'm using the picture of the 504 below as a guide. It appears the forward part of the fuse is in shadow inside, with the re-enforcing tapes making bright lines, but on the rear, after the cockpit, the structure casts shadows and appear darker than the covering.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3Rnc1GH3/Avro504-01.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTQV1tsg/Avro504-75.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
After color coats.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mp97cjvR/Avro504-76.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Great news. I'll have to get a SPAD.
Guess they are waiting to see how high I set the bar on my 504? ;D
Hi Ken... following your light hearted remark about setting the bar height for a Roden Avro 504K, I actually sent a link for your build to Vladimir, the President of Roden, who is now following your build!
Vladimir says "The work of Avro 504K of Mr. Kensar is very interesting. When we start the designing of this model we will have some questions that we can discuss"
No pressure but now they are watching to see how high you set the bar on your 504K! :)
cheers
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Whoa! No pressure!!
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I hope I can help answer any questions that come up, but I am far from a subject matter expert on Avro 504 aircraft. The 504K would be easier to model than the 504 due to the cowling design. Because of that, my 504 will not be exactly accurate (maybe I should have done the 504K).
In the meantime, I'll just keep on doing what I do.
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I haven't updated on my usual schedule due to being sidetracked with 'honey - do' projects, but here's a small update.
Still working on the fuse. Focusing on the front currently.
Added the bulges on the fuse sides. This is where the model will not be accurate. On the actual plane, the bulges are tapered on the cowling, which makes the rear of the cowling smaller than the middle. I don't know if the engine still fit through the smaller opening, or if the cowling had to be twisted to get it over the engine, but it would not work on the model. Later 504's did not have this issue, as the cowling design was different.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqbs7q6s/Avro504-81.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Putting on the top part of the cowling. Tried to form a sheet of copper to the right shape, but I didn't like where that was going, so I went to plan B with polyester automobile body filler (Bondo putty).
(https://i.postimg.cc/3NJj7mNr/Avro504-78.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Started on the landing gear. The brass rectangles will have some thread wrapped on the ends as bungie cords, then the whole thing will be covered with another sheet with the bottom open to view the bungies.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tCJdM382/Avro504-79.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
There's a lot of tedious details around the landing gear. Also got the toothpick made. Pictures on the next update.
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Wow Ken, splendid! I love brass ;)
The issue with the cowling I have not understand, but I will wait patiently for the next updates. Time will tell.
Cheers,
Frank
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Interesting , looking forward on how the cowl turns out .
Terri
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Superbly detailed undercarriage.
Stephen.
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I appreciate you following along and looking in, Frank, Terri, and Stephen.
I will try to explain the difficulty with the cowling. In the diagram below, the cowling bulges on the sides start tapering before they reach the fuselage. This reduces the size of the back of the cowling and the engine which barely fits in the forward part of the cowling will not clear the back of the cowling when it is taken off.
(https://i.postimg.cc/59XwLBcM/504-cowling-detail.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have made my cowling to be the same size from front to back, as is usually done. The 504K had this type of cowling, but the 504 did not.
A few more pictures of the cowling.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vvv0RcZR/Avro504-83.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PJ7pVFBk/Avro504-84.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hjp7TGsv/Avro504-85.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pVcFdpy1/Avro504-86.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now to clean up and prep the cowling for painting.
And the 'toothpick' for the landing gear.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jn1ksXbS/Avro504-82.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
As usual, I'm skipping around in this build.
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The cowlings on the early 504's were a very difficult shape to model even in 1/72 scale. You have achieved a minr miracle to do so in this giant scale. Congratulations.
Stephen.
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Incredible engineering Ken! I am sure it will be perfect when you are done!
RAGIII
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Very nicely done. Great work with the car bog too, I'm a big fan of that stuff.
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That is a weird shape to make , but your pulling it off brillant !
Terri
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Thanks for the kind comments, everyone.
This is easily the most complicated cowling shape I've done.
Working with the Bondo putty is fairly easy. It can be carved with a hobby knife and sanded after hardening, which makes shaping it easy.
I'm working on the landing gear and toothpick mounting presently. These are two separate and delicate structures tied together with rigging wire. Not suprising that many landing crashes took out the landing gear.
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With your second cowling posting I have now understand that problem, thanks for explanation!
I had to look into the Blue Max kit to see, how they solved this: that is a 504K, with a round white metal cowling, just a cutout on lower side.
Cheers,
Frank
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That cowling is looking extremely complicated to build, but you did an excellent job Ken!
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Another update. The landing gear detail is taking quite a while.
Mock up and painting of the landing gear.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Yqy79Qs/Avro504-88.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMpYwQxB/Avro504-94.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vB5pxx7w/Avro504-95.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The toothpick mounting before painting. I used PE turnbuckles for some of the cable mounting points.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wjGKCpxZ/Avro504-91.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jqHbLmvn/Avro504-92.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Color on the cowling. I'm waiting a few days for the paint to cure before clear coating.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dz99zPXc/Avro504-96.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Thanks for following along. I know these scratchbuilds take a long time to completion.
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That undercarriage assembly looks very complicated but you have tackled it extremely well and I a sure that it will be strong enough to take the weight of the model. I am awestruck by the detail you have put into the legs and cable attachment points - first class.
Scratch builds do take a long time, but they are worth every minute spent on them.
Stephen
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Again an update with the WOW! effect :o Lovely
I used PE turnbuckles for some of the cable mounting points.
Why does this feel so well-known to me? Scratching my head ... ;D ;D
Cheers,
Frank
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Ken,
Your solder work looks fantastic. What setup or method are you using to assemble such complicated structures?
Kevin
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Awesome job on the undercarriage Ken and use of the PE turnbuckles :)
Terri
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Stephen - your Schuckertt could be as frustrating as anything I've done, with all those wings and struts. Amazing job you're doing on it.
Frank - I know a good idea when I see one. Its your contribution to this build!
Kevin - Complicated structures are made of simpler ones. Putting them all together is the trick, and in this case (as with most soldering I've done) having a jig to hold things in place is a key component. I usually don't fabricate anything complicated - I just cob something together and solder quickly before it falls apart.
Thanks Terri. I'm looking forward to putting all these pieces together - for the last time.
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Wonderful soldering work. That looks lovely!
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Wow, incredible work. Are you building this with only the datasockfile as reference? Are there good measurements in these files?
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Wonderful stuff K!
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Great metal and wood works, very well done.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Thanks for the encouraging comments, William, Kent, Fvdm, and Giuseppe.
The Windsock datafile is the primary reference, but not the only one. The windsock datafile has no pictures of the interior, so I am using other pictures found on the internet and on YouTube. There are almost no pictures of the version I am building, so I am going on educated guesses.
I have removed the painting masks and applied the engine turned firewall.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7YPSf59R/Avro504-97.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxj9LK1n/Avro504-98.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/66fdWrrR/Avro504-99.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The engine turning looks more subtle than it does in the picture.
I'll soon get back around to the wings.
Thanks again for commenting.
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I am just now catching up on this one and must say how impressive your AVRO looks! The soldering of the gear, painting, and the turned firewall are awesome! The cowling really turned out to be a thing of beauty!
RAGIII
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This will be a breathtaking beauty! I like every single piece of it.
Thanks for letting us watch the build process.
Cheers,
Frank
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This is scratch building at the highest level Ken. The engine turning on that firewall is something to die for. Brilliant.
Never mind the smaller details: if you cannot be sure what they were like, then it is very unlikely that anyone else would know either!
Stephen.
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Thanks for leaving the positive comments Rick, Frank, and Stephen. It keeps the motivation going.
I have gotten back to the lower wings for the moment. The rigging is somewhat confusing in that some period pictures show 504s with turnbuckles and cables and some with RAF flying wires, but it is not always clear what versions of 504s they are. I suspect early 504s had turnbuckles and cables (likely built pre-war) and later ones have RAF wires. Also, some early ones were probably converted from turnbuckles/cables to flying wires. I have read that government orders for aircraft in 1915 specified flying wires, which had been around since before the war. The plane I'm modeling was probably built in mid to late 1914. So, amid all the confusion, I have decided to rig the wings with flying wires and use turnbuckles/cables on the bracing applications. Interesting stuff.
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So, amid all the confusion
Ken, now I'm really confused?!
I think you mix here some terms ???
Once you talk about "RAF wires", which are the streamlined flat steel rods with threads on the end. This is the opposite to steel cable with turnbuckles.
Then you talk about "flying wires", which I know as wires from the upper wing outside to lower fuselage (carry the weight during flight).
The opposite is here "landing wire" which runs form upper fuselage to outside lower wings to hold negative loads (especially happens during landing).
See this description of a Camel rigging:
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b0/e7/db/b0e7dba7c9012791a3920055413ffc24.jpg)
So flying and landing wires (describing a function) could be done as RAF wires or steel ropes with turnbuckles (technical realization description).
That explains, why I so confused about your little article ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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I understand your confusion. Sorry about that.
When I mentioned flying wires, I was referring to the streamlined steel rods made by the Brunton or RAF factory, not the function that the wires perform in their application. In my research, the streamlined steel rods made by the RAF factory were frequently called RAF flying wires, so I used the terms interchangeably here.
So, on my model, the flying and landing wires will be represented as RAF wires, and not turnbuckles/cables (wire ropes).
Hope this is clearer. Thanks for asking the question. Others were probably confused also.
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Progressing wonderful so far Ken , I really like how the fire wall turned out :)
Terri
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Thanks Terri. Most of it will be hidden behind the cowling, but the process has been learned for next time.
A short update.
Waiting for more paint to arrive. I have been using Model Master light ivory enamel for the CDL, but I haven't been able to find any recently. I have decided to change my paint type again and have ordered several AK Interactive lacquers. However, for CDL color, I will be changing to Tamiya racing white lacquer in a spray can. I'll decant it for use in the airbrush when needed. It's the same color as the light ivory, but a shade lighter, so I'll use it for a base color and use the rest of my remaining enamel light ivory on top of it to stretch what I have left.
Here, I've added the bottom aluminum panels and done some weathering. The aileron cables are protruding from the pulley on the bottom and now I need the bottom wings for alignments, so that will be done next when the paint arrives.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwgRq84T/Avro504-100.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jj5w5G67/Avro504-102.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
So, I've gone on to the wing struts and cabanes. Made from wood and will be stained. This time I'm going with brass ferrules for the ends of the struts, which will be painted black.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fn4qJ1N/Avro504-103.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This 504 model has skinny struts, where later ones have much wider struts.
As always, comments are welcome. Thanks for looking in on this project.
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Wow that looks perfect!
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Looking great, Ken.
The oil and grime on the aluminum is just right.
Kevin
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Those sytruts look very interesting. Which wood di you use? And where did you find/make the brass ferrules?
Stephen.
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Thanks for commenting William, Kevin, and Stephen.
I honestly don't know what kind of wood the struts are made from. They are made from coffee stirring sticks I found at the office. They have a very tight grain. I have used them on all my scratchbuilds. Individually, they are a little too flexible, so I laminated two together with aliphatic glue and sanded them to the right dimensions with the seam going down the middle, which makes them suitably stiff. The brass ferrules are 0.062" brass tubing that I drilled out one end to 0.051" and cut to length with a jeweller's saw. I wanted to use the ferrules so that the wood struts don't split when I drill into them to glue in the mounting wires.
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Superb work on the struts and fittings Ken! Your usual magic!!
RAGIII
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Excellent out come on shaping the struts Ken :)
Alexis
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You continue with amazing work and spectacular results. Tis is a great thread to follow. Looking forward to more :-)
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Thank you for the kind comments, friends.
Now finally, a small update. I now have more paint, so work can continue, but first, a detail - the cockpit coaming.
First heat some styrene and bend to a curve.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8z6rGBx6/Avro504-106.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Add the rear strip.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTPsnb4z/Avro504-107.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
A little paint and some sewing thread.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZFGBJjb/Avro504-110.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHDVqdzX/Avro504-108.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzNMVGwp/Avro504-109.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
A look at the result.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFYSG4Gp/Avro504-111.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, on to the wings.
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Excellent results on the combing Ken :)
Alexis
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Thank you for your encouraging comments and for following this build, Alexis. I do appreciate it.
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Hello Ken,
I have been looking in on this, and I have to say some excellent techniques on display and she’s turning out beautifully! Hays off to you for doing this from scratch - I couldn’t do it!
Guy
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Nice detail on the cockpit coaming, but I think I can't use your technique in 1/48. Luckily I found some old Eduard PE set with stitching and lacing, so I use a PE stripe to add that detail. Here I often use a 1/72 set because of smaller distance of holes.
Cheers,
Frank
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I would have liked to make this detail a little smaller, but I couldn't have pulled it off using this method. I think it looks okay, so I have moved on.
Thanks for commenting, Guy and Frank.
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I think the coaming looks great Ken! This one continues to impress!
RAGIII
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Stitching in this scale is difficult Ken, but IMHO you have pulled this one off well. I doubt whether anyone will notice - unless you point it out to them!
Stephen.
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Thanks for the kind comments, Rick and Stephen.
I've made some progress, painting and weathering the wings. Also put together a few more details and got the lower wings and horizontal stabilizer on. Finally looking like its coming together.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxCyBPQj/Avro504-112.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hn04LyFg/Avro504-113.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'm trying out the Gaspatch resin 1/48 turnbuckles and finding that they are fragile. Won't be putting them where its hard to replace broken ones.
Now to get the upper wing ready. I may have to remake the wing struts as I discovered I may have made them too short. ???
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Can't recall how many times I have made the struts to short , your not alone on that Ken . Now before I do any painting I will will assemble to make sure .But then again I don't listen to that logic often either . I'm truly enjoy this one and it comes together even more with each up-date .
Alexis
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I can always count on you to stop by. Thanks a bunch. I'll fit the cabane struts and place the top wing on and check the strut length. I should have planned to make the struts at this point from the beginning. Without any instructions to follow, I have to think through each step and look ahead to what's coming to be sure I'm putting things together in the best order.
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My struts were often too long. Then I cut them 3 times - still too short! ;D ;D ;D
Cheers,
Frank
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That is really looking outstanding Ken. Very inspiring and really makes Me hope that Roden follows through with their plans! Very inspiring to say the least. I am sure you will sort out the strut length without any Major issues.
RAGIII
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Everything looking very fine, you will have no trouble in fixing the minor struts issue. Cockpit coaming is looking right.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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My struts were often too long. Then I cut them 3 times - still too short! ;D ;D ;D
Cheers,
Frank
I am like Frank: I too cut them too long and then find, after trimming, they are too short!!
This is coming on really well - with the lower wing and tail unit on it really is beginning to take shape. I do not use turnbuckles - I think that they look oversize and they are more trouble than they are worth. A small touch of paint makes a good substitute.
Stephen.
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Thanks for chiming in, Frank, Rick, Giuseppe, and Stephen.
Yep, the struts are too short.
I'll need to remake the struts and install them to make the wing structure more stable. Looks like I'll also need to do some of the rigging as well. Then it can be handled without fear of disaster.
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Finally made some visible progress, after some diversions (new bicycle).
Got the top wing on and some cross bracing rigging.
(https://i.postimg.cc/65V28Rgp/Avro504-114.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Things should start rolling now.
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Beginning to look like a real aeroplane now Ken. I do like the cdl finish that you have on the wings and fuselage.
Stephen.
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Biplanes are looking wonderful, and this one is no exception. It will be a beauty with the linen, black, alu and wood colors.
Love it!
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome looking Bi Plane Ken! Really taking shape now!
RAGIII
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Thanks for checking in, Stephen, Frank, and Rick.
Things have started moving along faster now. I'm working on the aileron controls on the bottom of the wing. Then the landing gear to get it on its feet.
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Looks good flip on her back !
Nice to see the top wing in place all set for the rigging :)
New bike you say !!! ???
Alexis , who is envy of you ...I still have another four months before I can start riding again :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Spent time in the shop today.
Got the wing rigging and lower wing aileron controls wired.
The 504 has a quite a bit of rigging. Here's an aileron control system component that I blackened chemically.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7YYDPNPn/Avro504-116.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Installed in place on the lower wing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gm61QwFX/Avro504-117.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGyrKXgL/Avro504-118.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Starting on the landing gear now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5N7JXF6d/Avro504-119.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Till next time...
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Fantastic workmanship Ken!
Kent
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Brilliant work Ken! Those fittings you make are amazing!!
RAGIII
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She is looking better and better with every up-date , fantastic job on the rigging Ken :)
Alexis
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Great job - the real could not look better! The little pulleys - cool 8)
I love every update :)
Cheers,
Frank
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Thank you, my friends. Your comments are most appreciated.
I've got the landing gear on and braced up - it's looking good.
Now for the wheels...
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Those aileron brackets are a work of art in themselves. Stupendous modelling.
Stephen.
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Thanks for stopping by, Stephen. Some of these details are visually impressive, but are quite simple. The aileron rigging component is a flat plate with holes drilled in it and PE turnbuckles folded over and attached with monofilament 'bolts'.
Here's a somewhat poor picture of the landing gear and toothpick installed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYSypNb4/Avro504-120.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've machined out some wheels with the center axle detail.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Q5t6j64/Avro504-121.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Rolling along, now.
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Your undercarriage is really impressive Ken , looks very fragile actually .
Alexis
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The gear and skid are as amazing as the rest of the build! Simply Gorgeous work!
RAGIII
PS: I forgot to mention those machined wheels....brilliant!
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Yes, Alexis, its kind of scary. No surprise the gear were taken out on hard landings. Hopefully this one won't experience that.
Thanks Rick. This should be finished in 2-3 weeks now.
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Ken, this is soooooo lovely!
And finished in 2-3 weeks? You are faster with a scratch build than I am with a kit ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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More first class scratch building Ken. The undercarriage does look fragile - just hope that it does not get too many hard knocks.
Stephen.
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Looking gorgeous! More like an actual aircraft restoration than a scale model. :)
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She's got her shoes on and she's going out...
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZ138W6V/Avro504-122.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2K0Ns3D/Avro504-123.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Testing the landing gear - checks out okay.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NF4hkWZp/Avro504-124.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Still more rigging and detailing to do.
I've started working on a prop. Two others from the parts box weren't going to cut it - wrong shape.
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Really amazing looking build Ken! Simply Superb work on all!
RAGIII
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That is truly first class Ken. An excellent build log of a classic type.
Stephen.
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wow, just wow. Fantastic craftsmanship
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Very impressive! This looks really nice, and very realistic. Outstanding modeling. ;D
Best regards,
Bob
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Thank you for the kind comments, friends.
I have all the major components done except for the prop, which is a prop blank at the moment, and the prop hub. I'm focusing on rigging on the top wing and other small details around the fuselage. Then the prop will be done and its finished.
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Ken,
That is beyond good!
Guy
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Your work leaves me speechless, Ken. Just brilliant.
Cheers,
Gary
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Can’t wait to see it with the cowling in place ;)
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Here's the last update in this thread. There is only one more detail left and the prop to do.
Thanks to all who followed this build and for the encouraging words.
Detail of the pulleys and rigging on the top wing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNrXqQRG/Avro504-125.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Pitot tube detail with Reggie looking on.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yKLwPFP/Avro504-126.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Engine mounted. Reggie like.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjzmMvR1/Avro504-127.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qq7FMT2f/Avro504-128.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1tsT26t3/Avro504-129.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Rigging detail of the tail.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDjqsDzN/Avro504-130.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
General shot of the underside. Lots of stuff here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmRC7Cw9/Avro504-131.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This has definitely been the most complicated build I've done. I think the myriad of details gives it the authentic look.
On to the finish!
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It's those details which really bring to the next level . Fantastic Ken :)
Alexis
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Beautiful rigging there, Ken!
KK
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Details and rigging are Awesome Ken! A truly Beautiful build!
RAGIII
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Thank you, Alexis, Kent, and Rick. The devil is in the details, as they say.
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You will be again the winner of the Group build with this bird!
Oh, no Group Build running? ??? You are the winner anyway.
It's sheer lunacy!
Cheers,
Frank
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a truly awesome build with so much superb detail that makes it look so realistic. A proper museum piece if ever i saw one
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What everyone else has said.... stunning work. Cheers Matt
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Fantastic work, Ken. I haven't posted a lot lately, but still followed along :)
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Thanks for checking in Frank, EBF, FokkerFodder, and Jeroen.
Nice to see some more people coming forward to comment. This interaction keeps forums alive.
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The weathering, the rigging, the woodwork, evering looks fantastic!!
Are you going to show us the propeller?
Willem
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When its made - today or tomorrow.
I'm doing the paper prop thing again.
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Last pics. Prop in progress. See finished pics in completed section.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xdMC5Tn9/Avro504-136.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2SPynBpH/Avro504-137.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The prop is just the icing on the cake for your Fine Build!
RAGIII
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Got to agrre with rick: the prop is superb.
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I see it with a crying and a laughing eye! Very nice to see this bird in a finished state, but on the other hand really pity, that the build report is finished. But I hope we will see another one from your bench!
Cheers,
Frank
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I apologize if I missed it; what size plastic are using for the spars and and wing skins? Thank you
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The sheeting for the wings are 0.020". The spars are 3/8" X 3/16". The wings also have an embossed 0.010" sheet glued on the top surface for the rib detail.
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The sheeting for the wings are 0.020". The spars are 3/8" X 3/16". The wings also have an embossed 0.010" sheet glued on the top surface for the rib detail.
Thank you so much.