forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Gisbod on August 06, 2020, 07:45:54 PM
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Hello all,
Haven’t posted in ages, but I’ve finally got round again to a WW1 model!
It’s a bit random, I bought it on impulse at last years SMW along with some Aviattic lozenge. I’ve been on a mini run lately of 1/72 biplanes, but they’ve all been inter-War up until now. As much as I enjoy building 1/32, they’re too big to display, so end up in a box in the garage, before getting thrown out at a later stage. So basically I’ve got zilch to show for about 40 years of modelling! I have this notion of actually keeping a collection in a display case - and I think 1/72 might just work.
So anyway, the kit is Ardpol (Polish, never heard of them), resin - I can’t recall ever making a full resin kit before so I’d be very grateful for any pointers here. I’ve washed the parts and I’ve spent an evening getting all the flash off (lots), but the parts are very fine indeed, quite impressive. The wings are translucently thin and clearly better than the recent injection moulded kits I’ve made. Questions I have though are:
Is super glue the only option for construction?
I’d like to bolster the attachment points (I’d usually use wire but the parts are so thin that that might be difficult) any tips?
Likewise the struts, too thin to attach anything.
Specific primer for resin?
Lozenge on the wings - can I just gloss them pre decals or will they definitely need primer/ paint/ gloss?
I’ve been using monofilament and holes, pulling through, gluing, then snip off followed by a light sand then painting then decalling the lower surface. It’s working really well, but might be tricky with a lozenges wing. I guess I could Lozenge the wing after rigging (the lower wing at least). Any thoughts? (I don’t like EZ line!).
It does however look like a very good quality resin kit. Good detail and very few moulding issues. No bubbles to speak of. It could be really nice I think if you know what you’re doing!
Anyway, a picture paints a thousand words, so:
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4PhFYyb/9-DAFF8-BC-3430-4112-8-B8-B-DA4-F492-B1-ABD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcyLCXdv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/05WcJFtx/7-B38735-F-04-D2-4122-8180-7833-DB50-B9-FB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14FpkChY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2Fc0nWC/5-DA222-CB-BE8-D-4210-90-DE-000-C6482335-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kRWKW4vd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJTkMN4L/10-FD5148-CD44-4650-B4-C9-29-A48-F3-A6761.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cgpfKYYm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QxFSgmP7/771-D38-C3-4-E26-4-B40-A632-895-BAF5-F97-EF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Vdcjmqzs)
And here’s my last effort. The ‘Vintage Classic’ Airfix 1/72 Hawker Demon - new boxing but the same kit from the 60’s but with more flash! Quite a few alterations to the kit, but it’s basically still a nice model:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yV5pr3n/34722-A14-E689-4693-B748-BD7-CABEB3-C67.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBcfxm9q)
Any help appreciated!
Regards,
Guy
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Hi Guy. Great choice!
Having built a couple of resin kits I think I might try to help you.
1. Ardpol kits are among the best resin kits I know.
2. You can use epoxy 2-component glue from Uhu - gives about 5 minutes of flexibility - especially nice when attaching struts.
3. I prime resin in the same way as plastic.
4. I would try drilling the strut tips with very fine drill - max 0.3mm and insert wire pins. Sometimes I just CA-glue wire bits to the strut tips without drilling - simple butt joint - seems to be enough for alignment while glue and rigging care for integral strength.
5. For 72 scale I would not use monofilament but elastic thread from worn stockings - you may want to check my tutorial on rigging in the other section
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Ah thanks Prze,
What a very helpful answer!
There’s no way I can drill into the strut - it’s just too fine, but I hadn’t thought of butt attaching wire. I’ll experiment.
I just don’t like elastic thread! And I really like the stability the fishing line gives to the structure, but I will look at your tutorial...
Guy
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Ps sorry to be a pain Prze, but I can’t seem to find that, do you have a link?
Thanks,
Guy
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I'll second what Pzremol said. I have several Ardpol kits (1/48 sailplanes).
I like the surface detail, which is very fine. The decals are extremely thin and somewhat fragile, so be warned.
I believe Ardpol is out of business now, as I haven't been able to get onto their website, or find any new releases for about a year now.
I use CA glue and 5 min epoxy glue for resin kits.
A couple examples of the 1/48 sailplanes. I have added some details, but not much.
IS2 Mucha
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBNQtR1p/IS2-Mucha-15.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/X7tQ1yfF/IS2-Mucha-23.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
SZD Bocian
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8YHw5Zg/Bocian-E-07.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhRdkCF5/Bocian-E-03.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fT20KCtn/Bocian-E-15.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Good luck with your build. You may want to replace the resin struts with wire.
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Ooh they look nice Ken :)
Yes, I’m super impressed with the kit now I’ve studied in detail. Just need to learn the tricks to use resin.
Out of interest, if I simplified it by ditching the lozenge, are there many German schemes out there for non lozenges wings for the LVG?
Guy
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Ps sorry to be a pain Prze, but I can’t seem to find that, do you have a link?
Thanks,
Guy
No worries :-)
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=7902.0
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Ooh they look nice Ken :)
Yes, I’m super impressed with the kit now I’ve studied in detail. Just need to learn the tricks to use resin.
Out of interest, if I simplified it by ditching the lozenge, are there many German schemes out there for non lozenges wings for the LVG?
Guy
You can do the Polish one:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9908.0
The guy who did the decals for mine 32nd scale could surely rescale them to 72nd
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Super, thanks Prze ;)
But I really want to do a German one! :-\
Guy
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Well,
Thanks to you guys, I did have a go at drilling into the struts and it actually worked! I think resin is a bit easier in this respect. I don’t think I could have managed it with standard plastic.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkR1wHmC/65-EC2-BB7-650-F-4-B78-9849-4-F7085-D3-BD22.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvRzWp6D)
Hopefully, that will give the struts a bit of strength.
Guy
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Ps
I have found a non lozenge option on the WW’s site. I’m still not sure, but as least there’s an option.
I love lozenge, and in particular the Aviattic faded lozenge, but it’s just whether I can do justice to it. I can’t see how I can perfect the finely scalloped edges.
I’ll have a think on that.
Guy
(https://i.postimg.cc/SQgQvnb6/8-A9-B41-ED-09-BD-46-B6-A543-C8-EB7-F44-BA13.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qgCdtMRq)
Pps
Would the demarcation on the camouflage be solid or feathered?
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Nice subject matter Guy 8) I have one of their kits in the stash . 72 scale Pfalz D.VII/III and it is a very nice kit . I don't build in this scale anymore but I do have a few of my favorites though which will get built .
Resin is really no different then working with a plastic kit . except for the type of glue used . For me I use super glue , thin and medium . I prime and paint just like I would if building plastic . Some types of resin sand very fast !! work slow and wear a mask when sanding . ( Wet sand when you can ) . Resin is strong but it it isn't overly flexible like plastic and doesn't take much for it to snap .
Nice job on pinning the struts ;)
Terri
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Looks like a great kit! Nice work on drilling those struts. I have drilled holes through the wings on lozenge aircraft. It usualy only takes a drop of canopy glue and a ad of closely matching paint to adequately cover the exit holes. You also could do things the way you mention and cover the underside after rigging. I am sure you will work that out for yourself!
RAGIII
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I have also drilled in lozenge wings and it's actually easier to hide the holes than on a plain surface. Just cut matching lozenge section and apply over the holes! I would also agree about staying with monofilament, there's no chance of it pulling too tight or drying out over time. Every time I see an old rubber band it puts me right off even thinking about using elastic!
Looking forward to this one as I have it in my stash too!
Ian
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Thanks Terri, Rick & Ian ;)
Terri, I’d like to see your Pfalz - if your model bench is getting cluttered I could help you clear some space in your stash!
Ian, yes, I personally just don’t like elastic - I know it’s the latest thing and everyone uses it, but it just doesn’t do it for me. I love the rigidity monofilament gives the structure. And it won’t sag, age or get fluffy. It also looks like steel wire and has perfect uniformity whereas black elastic doesn’t. Just my personal view!
I’m sure I’m teaching everyone to suck eggs, but I have a technique for fixing it which has been a revelation for me. I pull the line through, hang a set of those sprung closed tweezers to give tension then I use a sewing needle with the top of the hole cut off - giving a ‘U’ shape - dip in thin CA then push the ‘U’ into the line at the hole (underside of the wing) and Voilá! It draws beautifully into the hole leaving virtually no mess at all. The line is now fixed solid in place - impossible to remove unless you cut it. I used to put a blob of medium CA on the line then pull through, but this is messy and doesn’t always fix in place.
I’m sure that’s all obvious, but it’s helped me!
Guy
Ps I’m leaning towards non lozenge as it has to be a cleaner finish (around the complex edges) and I always strive for a ‘perfect’ finish (obviously I never achieve it!)
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I'm with Guy on the cut off needle-eye method for applying CA to rigging holes. The glue stays within the U shape rather than forming a droplet on the outer edge, which is all too easy to brush against the wing surface etc.
Guy I think your thought to use mono glued in this way, along with the recommendation to tidy up the pre-lozenged rigging holes with a spot of spare lozenge decal, will be ideal.
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Great work on the struts. I had this kit some time ago in my hands and was initially surprised with your report on tine strut cross-section. But in the matter of fact, there is a lot of area to drill :-)
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Thanks,
Prze, yes, you’re, of course, right. Just at a casual glance, I couldn’t see a drill working, but it’s really not that bad. I’m definitely finding resin easier in some respects.
I’m quite taken by this kit. You mentioned they’d got out of business, can anyone point me in the direction of where I might find some more of these kits? Or recommendations on other nice quality Resin manufacturers in 1/72?
Guy
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Unfortunately they are less and less available. For instance here
https://www.mojehobby.pl/manufacturers/Ardpol.html
are some remains.
They occassionally appear on second hand market, you may wish to check Polish auction site Allegro. If you find something, I might help you with buying.
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Thanks Prze :D
The Avro Manchester looks cool.
Czech Master have quite a big range of Resin models. Do you know how they compare to Ardpol?
Guy
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Choroszy also do excellent resin kits. I buy his engines for other kits too.
Ian
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I have only built CMR Bristol M.1c, it was fine but not as fine as Ardpol. As for Choroszy, they have a wide range, are available but require much more work.
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Thanks guys,
I should probably see how I get on with this one first!
Guy
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Expanding your building experience to include resin kits opens up more choices of subjects, but generally I find they take a little more more work than an injected kit.
Lets see how this one goes for you!
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Thanks Ken,
I’ve got the fuselage together - I used thin CA and capillary action; seemed to work ok. Do you do it differently?
Guy
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRJQs98s/5508-F00-F-99-EB-4-FA6-BF0-B-C94-EB8937100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zRBdbgX)
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Nice work on the interior Guy :)
Terri
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Yes, the interior looks great. Do you more pictures of it?
I typically use medium thickness CA, as it fills small gaps and gives me time to align the pieces, but I have used epoxy - whatever I think will work best.
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Due to the fact that cured CA is considerably harder than resin, sanding seams can be difficult. I found it is a good idea to lightly sand the fuselage halves by gently rubbing them on a piece of 400 grit placed on a flat surface with a few drops of water to get the matching edges perfectly flat so they match up without small gaps. One of those thin glue tips, (Great Planes make the best), on a bottle of thin CA is the way to go for applying CA by capillary action, just be careful not to squeeze the bottle more than is necessary to get the glue to the end of the tip. The up side is that CA cures much faster than liquid plastic cement and you can be dressing the seam in a couple of minutes. If you mess up and get the fuselage halves misaligned, a little CA debonder will help you pry the halves apart and they can be resanded and rejoined. Resin and CA dust is not the best thing to put in your lungs, so wet sanding is highly recommended.
Working with resin kits opens up a whole world of oddball and rarely seen aircraft to model. The additional skills needed are well worth mastering.
sp
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Hello Guy,
There was a guy on E-Bay who used to carry alot of Ardpol kits at very competitive prices. I believe his name was RebelAlpha? You might try looking there. Not sure if he still sells items but might be worth a look.
No affiliation, just a customer who got good service from this seller.
Thanks,
Mike
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Thanks for the replies ;)
Yes, I will experiment with glues, but I actually did sand the edges on a flat surface and the thin CA did seem to work well so it’s a good starting point!
Apologies but I forgot to photograph the insides so you only get a peek!
Mike - thanks for that, I checked him out but no Ardpol kits left it seems.
I might put a request out on the forum to see if anyone will sell me any. Worth a go! I’m still tempted by the Manchester...
Guy
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Moving along nicely. As for the seam filling I wonder if Super Filler, super glue and Talcum powder, would work as well as it does on plastic?
RAGIII
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Just found this Guy - somehow I missed it before. I have never built a resin kit so can offer no advice, but from what I have seen others do with them, and what you are doing with yours, they seem to be an interesting option.
I have a small collection of True Scale models in two glass cabinets and still have a lot of space. I prefer the True Scale just because I do not wish to move into the garage or throw things away. I am now building a 1/32 monster and built the Gunbus in the same scale because I wanted a different challenge, but if you stay with single and two seaters you should not have a problem with cabinets. A Manchester would also fit, although mine (a conversion from the original Airfix Lancaster moulds with wood engines, wings and tail fin), has its own perspex box for display.
This is going to be an interesting model when finished - whichever scheme you ultimately choose.
Stephen.
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Rick
Oddly the seam has worked out perfectly using the thin CA and no filler at all. I can never do this perfectly with plastic kits - there always seems to be the ghost of a line along the seam no matter what I do. Maybe it’s just a physical property of the resin? But whatever, I’m liking it!
Stephen,
Thanks, yes that’s the sort of collection I’d like. I think you may be thinking of the later Manchester. I’ve actually just ordered the one Prze pointed me to - this one:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SKn2KkyY/EFA986-A0-58-CB-43-AA-95-C9-35-BEA92-B370-C.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Guy
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I have noticed the difference between plastic and resin seams too. St.Harry mentions that styrene glued with liquid plastic cement can take a very long time to fully dry out. That may be the reason for the ghost of a line. Plastic seams glued with CA are better if there is no excess CA. The difference in hardness between plastic and CA can make sanding a seam a nightmare.
sp
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Looks nice so far! When I built my 1/72 models I usually drilled all they way through the lower wings, I lef these unpainted. Then installed 0,08mm fishing line rigging, I pulled it taut by hanging little clothe pegs on the ends, so they all have the same tension. Then I secured them with a drop of CA and left to dry overnight.
Then I remove the excess wire, fill and sand as needed, then maks the wing off with post-it notes and paint and decal the remaining surfaces.
I also use CA as filler on plastic kits, what really helped me with that was mixing in talcum power. It makes it less hard, but it sands equally well, even if left for a few days (don't ask... :P)
I can't remember where, but I also saw someone (I believe it was on Youtube somewhere) mixing in some colour pigment to make it easier to see.
Jeroen
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Thanks Jeroen,
Yes, that’s basically the same method I’m using, but I find the thin CA gives an instantaneous bond so no drying overnight!
Sounds like a good tip with the CA filler. What consistency do you look for when mixing with talc?
I’ve gotten the primer on - I’ve been totally converted to everything MRP lately, and this is their fine white primer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mrXtPjjp/8-A791731-D0-A0-4-A7-B-9334-02626-B746-D9-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rd48bSv5)
These are the pre drilled wings:
(https://i.postimg.cc/W4bdpCGJ/28-A0149-E-DB8-A-483-E-A48-B-286-B81514-AE6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/182mJWY9)
And these are Barracuda Albatross wheels - the only weak part in the kit are the wheels (kit one below):
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8TJHsZH/090-F578-E-E68-A-403-D-B6-D3-11-F4-E617526-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kdrjM1S)
Guy
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Nice work on the seems Guy and the prime looks nice and smooth :)
Terri
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Thanks Terri,
I’ve got her ready to receive an oil coat for the fuselage wood effect...
(https://i.postimg.cc/dVMtHBJp/C10-D4977-BAAB-442-B-92-EE-BAF8-E3-D5791-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRN24tkD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/15V3rT1D/2-A6-F9548-8-BAE-4527-9-BAC-17-B74-A35-B288.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcYQ06Cd)
Can anyone point me in the right direction to get old style crosses in decal form? I’m going for the non lozenge version...
(https://i.postimg.cc/SQgQvnb6/8-A9-B41-ED-09-BD-46-B6-A543-C8-EB7-F44-BA13.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qgCdtMRq)
Guy
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You are doing a Masterful job on this one. The seams or lack thereof now, look terrific as doeas the initial painting for the wood.
RAGIII
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Guy, what a great project! And that in Gods own scale and resin :o
I have some resin kits in stash, but have not build one of them. Additonal resin parts on my models told me, that I prefer plastic and PE ::)
So my respect is even higher! Again something to watch and learn ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Rick ;D
And thanks Frank, it’s a learning process for me too!
I’m drawn to how fine the moulding detail is over plastic in this scale. The plastic kits I’ve got in the stash in this scale seem a poor comparison. Haven’t had any great issues with the resin so far, but there’s plenty of time!
I have had the one disaster though (as per usual). While spraying the grey panels I let the paint build up and had a run, which I then tried to remove and made a right mess! Schoolboy error. I then decided I’d have to strip the whole thing back. Not knowing how resin would react I made a trial on a scrap piece of resin then proceeded to spray the whole fuselage with airbrush reamer - stripped the paint off beautifully! Didn’t touch the resin. But, I also ended up stripping the whole cockpit too! I did my best to restore it by airbrushing through the openings, added some more belts. It’s a bit of a bodge, but tbh, it really doesn’t look too bad!
So primed again and I’ve got the oils on, I just need to give that a few days to dry before I seal it in.
Guy
(https://i.postimg.cc/9FFwGVW0/7-AE0492-D-69-E0-4-F52-A6-BC-D77-FB045-D449.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdWvh7Sf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFxJd1Xw/034-A9496-92-FB-42-A4-91-A7-BFA8128926-BD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhfGNDj0)
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You have overcome the issues with terrific results! The wood is lovely!
RAGIII
PS: I should add that especially in this scale Less grain effect is best. Yours looks Perfect to Me!
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Now that looks sharp Guy :) I'm also starting to believe with all the builds threads going on on the amount of mistakes taking place ....we all seem to be copying each other . Nice recovery and the pit still looks good . I might have 72 scale cross , will have to check my stash and if so they are yours if you wish .
Terri
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Thanks Rick!
Yes, I’m frankly surprised the cockpit still looks fine - it was literally stripped of all paint. Perhaps I might leave painting of the cockpit til last in the future! ;D. The reamer washed away the paint like it was a water colour under a pressure hose...
And thanks Terri,
That would be very kind of you.
Guy
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I checked my stash and I'm sorry to say that I don't have any 72 scale WW 1 decals left except for lozenge . Sorry Guy that I wasn't able to help you and I hope you are able to source some soon .
Terri
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Guy
You looking for Eisern Kruz or Balkan Kruz ?
sp
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Thanks Jeroen,
Yes, that’s basically the same method I’m using, but I find the thin CA gives an instantaneous bond so no drying overnight!
Sounds like a good tip with the CA filler. What consistency do you look for when mixing with talc?
I mix it "by feel", but it's roughly the thickness of Mr Surfacer 500. I do use an old bottle of Zap-A-Gap medium, that might be a bit thicker because it is so old (still need to get a new one).
I also don't use accelarator as some do, because that seems to make the CA rock hard and difficult to sand. It also prevents the CA from levelling out a bit, resulting in a much more rough surface. Or it's just my clumsiness :P I leave it to dry, scrape the excess off with a scalpel and wet sand it until smooth. Most of the time (depends on the level of filling needed) one layer is enough.
Nice save by the way! As for crosses, I have an old Pegasus sheet, but that's the Austrian/Hungarian style, which look a bit different from the German ones. They are very old, though, and I don't know if know if they'll still work... Nonetheless, if you'd still like them just let me know the sizes and I'll see if they're on there (I used some in the past)
Jeroen
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Thanks guys,
SP, thank you (again!) - Eiserne Kreuz, as per the Wingnuts colour plan for the non lozenge version I posted, but don’t go out of your way! There must be a generic decal sheet of generic Eiserne Kreuz out there somewhere! There are tons of Balkenkreuz...
Jeroen, that’s helpful, I will try that. My last attempt on a plastic seam was an improvement- I used standard Revell contact glue - overdid the amount required and put the joint under pressure so it oozed out and that seems a big improvement! But I will try the superglue tactic. Thanks for the offer, but I will try and source the decals and see how I go.
Bit of a lull as I wait for the oils to dry. I had another mini disaster- I noticed a patch on the front that could do with a touch up (oils) but the oils already there had partly dried so it just made a mini mess - partly recovered :P
All my mistakes tend to come from me over working stuff - basically meddling where it would have been better off leaving well alone!
Oh well,
Guy
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Great work Guy! I have masks ready for the crosses if you're interested. /FAf
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Of course I am Fredrik!
I just felt embarrassed asking again :) I’ll email you.
Guy
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Guy
I have white outline eisern kruz 20, 18, 14 mm in width and length. They are Americal Gryphon and have to be cut out close, so if you need un-outlined crosses, you will have to just slice off the white outline. LMK how many of each size you need.
sp
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Ah thanks sp,
But I think I might go with Fredrik’s masks now as he’s just offered...
The thought much appreciated though.
Guy
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Afternoon,
Little bit further along. I’ve coloured in the wings! I do love purple on WW1 aircraft ;D only mixed the colours by eye to loosely match the Wingnuts diagram.
I sealed in the fuselage so I’m really just waiting for the paint masks for the insignia. But that’s no hardship as I can make a start on the Avro Manchester!
Guy
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0NCb6cQ/99-F8-F0-DD-5-B99-4-A0-E-BC74-BAD9725-B31-BB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jn5TjJSj)
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That looks wonderful Guy! Thanks for sharing this interesting build. She'll be stunning when you are finished, no doubt. ;D
Best regards,
Bob
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Really coming a long very well , the wood really blends in with the purple camo :)
Terri
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That is absolutely beautiful painting and I Love the colors!
RAGIII
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Really lovely color shades!
That will be a beauty and could be also bigger scale!
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks ;)
But unfortunately I have to report a terminal update :-\
Masks worked beautifully, the struts fitted like a pair of gloves, the top wing fell into place, rigged it easily.. then the whole structure collapsed - entirely my own fault.
When attaching the lower wings I was going to put a brass rod in to support them, but they did fit snugly so thought, surely CA will be enough? So I took the lazy option. Once rigged under tension the lower wings structurally failed! Totally preventable, part knew that would happen in my sub conscious - you get that nagging doubt..
But now I’m left with a ball of wings & rigging - not sure it’s worth saving now...
You live and learn - a lesson in resin. Shame because she was looking dandy!
Here’s where I got to:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qttskj1r/1-A92-B92-F-320-E-4-A96-BC4-D-E180-FD82-D171.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67DDBJMH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1xF5gjZ/3-CF938-A4-DEB4-4-CF6-8-D8-A-F7-BF5-E8914-BB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftm1L2FM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dDMYYdXq/E21-F4732-9-A17-4230-B0-FF-374027-A5-CA7-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBghKZ4h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvQB6M2y/F399556-B-7221-4142-8313-2-D53-B4385-CC8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8mR70DX)
Guy
Ps sorry Fredrik :P
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Guy, that is too pretty not to fix. Put her in a sturdy box and when you are stuck on another build, pull it out of the box and finish it. It will give you a boost to finish what you thought you were stuck on. Win-Win.
sp
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Guy, that is too pretty not to fix. Put her in a sturdy box and when you are stuck on another build, pull it out of the box and finish it. It will give you a boost to finish what you thought you were stuck on. Win-Win.
sp
I absolutely agree with SP ! Put it asside and go back when you forget the Pain 8)
RAGIII
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Thanks SP & Rick,
Sound advice as usual. It probably is perfectly able to be saved, just that I tend to lose heart at that point! I will put it by out of harms way and take a moment for reflection..
Guy
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Ahh... painful, I'm sure! No need to apologise though, maskjob looks beautiful! I really hope you can find a way forward, because it looks really, really pretty (unlike my Brisfit at the moment...)
/Fredrik
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It's in no worse a condition than it was before it collapsed, a part from having to remove the rigging!
Far too nice to abandon, I agree with the others. Put her aside and come back to her later.
Having said that, structural issue noted, I will be sure to avoid the same problem when I start any of my resin kits!
Ian