forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: RichieW on July 01, 2020, 09:54:00 PM
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Hello everybody, I have been so utterly inspired by the scratch builds on this forum and have been wanting to try something for a while.
Before lockdown started here in the UK I met this rather beautiful aircraft at Old Warden aerodrome, Bedfordshire, and wanted to make a model of it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49864141297_4853dd5a5c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjKY6)20191116_105458 (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjKY6) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Isn't she a little beauty? The story of how she came to be is very interesting and can be read about in the book Rebuilding Grandad's Aircraft. In a nutshell the build used the original control stick, magneto and rudder bar from the aircraft flown by the author's Grandfather during WW!. These were found in his workshop after he passed away. There is a great DVD available too which some might like to look out for.
Nothing is available in 1/32 so in some ways it makes an ideal subject for a first attempt. Of course I have absolutely no idea of what I am doing so along the way I will undoubtedly make a horrible mess of many styrene sheets and rods but hopefully I will end up with something resembling Bristol Scout 1264. I have the Windsock data file as well as plans from a RC model website and have a trip planned to take a lot of detail photographs next week now that museums are reopening here.
I had a little play with 1mm square styrene strips, part of the framework confused me a little but I will these once I have a better understanding of the structure. Now that WNW have gone there is no 1/32 Le Rhone 9c engine available so I will have to try to make that too. The Special Hobby Nieuport Bebe in my stash does have a resin one I can take measurements from.
I am going to have a go at Vac forming the cowling, I was worrying about how to make a plug untilI found that the lid of an Encona Hot Sauce bottle is the perfectly matches the internal diameter of the Nieuport cowling. It even has an indentation in the centre to line up the cut out. The ridges on the sides have been caked in milliput.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50065106792_e8ceb1e9e1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jh5L1q)Bristol Scout C (https://flic.kr/p/2jh5L1q) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
It's not a lot I know but I have dipped my toe in the water at last. So the plan is to skin the framework, for the wings I may go down the balsa core route or I might laminate styrene sheet. Quite how to attach the to the fuselage is another story.
Thanks for reading, please feel free to offer advice or tell me I have got something very wrong. It's the only way for me to learn.
Back soon hopefully with something more interesting to show! :)
Richie
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That is a cool looking subject, Richie. How you decided on this for a subject is exactly how it happens for me - I just see something that strikes my fancy. I do the research afterward.
As far as the RC plans go, I would forget them. For an RC plane to fly nicely, the tail surfaces are typically oversized from the scaled down versions that would be correct, or the fuse is lengthened.
As for the wings, they are quite thin, so I would laminate sheets of styrene and sand, sand, sand the profile. Laminating will enable you to get the camber shape, otherwise, if the wings have a flat bottom profile, one could just use a single thick piece of styrene.
And good luck with the cowling. I have been finding that cowlings in most kits are too small for aftermarket engines, so I have been matching the cowlings to the engine - meaning I acquire an engine before worrying about the cowling. And then size the fuse to fit the cowling, even if it is slightly oversize.
These are just my thoughts and opinions, so don't think they are the best or only way to create your model. One thing scratchbuilding affords you is the freedom to try any ideas you have and source parts from anywhere.
Good luck with your build and I'll be following along. You'll probably inspire me to start my next scratchbuild!
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Very cool subject Richie! Best of luck with it.
Best regards,
Bob
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You are indeed a brave man Richie! Your Tripe indicated you are ready for this step and I'm looking forward to following your adventure into the land of Scratch Building, a journey I've never tried other then some hand carved Balsa rockets as a youngster!
Try an entry here on the "Buy-Sell-Swap-Trade" board for the LeRhone you are looking for, many of our members have stocked up on spare parts over the years and may well be willing to part with one. Also, I'm no expert however again we have a great resource of talent in the membership and I'm sure someone will have sources they can recommend for detailed drawings, a specific request in the Information/Questions Board might work.
Good luck and good hunting!
Cheers,
Lance
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Richie...wonderful idea...love the Scout....have you looked at NeOmega-Resin's 1/32 LeRhone 9C?
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Thanks chaps,
Some good advice already and I haven't really got started yet!
Ken, laminated styrene it is then.
Doug, you are a gem. I wasn't aware of neOmega's engine. I will look that up right away. If I can't get hold of one I will post as Lance suggests to see if anyone has one they don't need.
Looks like I may get to use the rest of my bottle of Hot Sauce if I get an aftermarket engine. I may still have a play at scratch building one just for the sheer hell of it! Will have plenty of time on my hands after this week so hope to crack on and have something to show you soon.
Thanks guys.
Richie
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WOW Richie! I am looking forward to this one. Like Lance said your Tripe shows you are ready. A bit of an aside here,the Bristol Scout was the first and Only attempt I ever made at scratch building, Although Mine was in 1/48th, no Eduard kit at that time 8) I got as far as having the fuselage, lower wings and cowling assembled. I forget if I lost interest or just gave up. You have made a Great start on yours!
RAGIII
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Am I following you again then Rick? ;)
Hoping to get a finished model at the end. If I don't at least i would have picked up some new skills. :)
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Holy moly - I'm in and follow closely!
There was a company Gavia, long out of business, but luckily I was able to catch their Bristol Scout C kit in 1/48. And if I'm not completely wrong the decals of your marking are included and my plan is, to build this one.
So of course I'm also interested in the museums pictures you will take :) Have a nice trip!
Have fun!
Frank
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Holy moly - I'm in and follow closely!
There was a company Gavia, long out of business, but luckily I was able to catch their Bristol Scout C kit in 1/48. And if I'm not completely wrong the decals of your marking are included and my plan is, to build this one.
So of course I'm also interested in the museums pictures you will take :) Have a nice trip!
Have fun!
Frank
Thanks Frank, I will put all the photos into a Flickr album and see if I can add them somewhere on the forum. Anything specific you want to see? I'm hoping to get there on Monday.
Richie
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Nothing special. May be some close shots of rigging, landing gear, tail, struts. I think any picture that will help you with the build will help me to ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Richie, I was just looking around at the Wikipedia page for the Bristol scout. It says your aircraft is a reproduction of an original Bristol Scout C number 1264, which was one of the first batch made for the RNAS. These planes originally had a Gnome Lambda engine (7 cylinder, 80 hp). The German Oberursal U.0 is a copy of the Lambda engine. Well, it just so happens that Taurus Models makes a U.0 in 1/32 scale. So, you can conceivably make an accurate model of the Scout C number 1264 with the Oberursal engine masquerading as the Gnome. Additionally, Taurus Models is also developing a Gnome Lambda engine, but no telling when that will be issued.
Just a potential option for you.
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Thanks Ken, yes that was definitely an option. Captain Bremner (the pilot who flew 1264) had the Gnome replaced with a Le Rhone because he was fed up with being unable to keep up with the Nieuport 11. It seems that although both engines were rated as 80hp the Le Rhone delivered a lot more torque.
I think you'd love the book Ken, it's full of useful information and there is an interesting encounter with an Eindekker too. They were tough boys back then!
Will definitely have a look at the Gnome engine, many thanks.
Richie
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Richie
I think you picked a great subject for a scratchbuild. Constant chord wings, slab sides and simple curves with no compound curves. Not to mention great colors and markings along with an interesting history. I'm looking forward to following your adventures with this one.
sp
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Interesting subject, surely nice to follow.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Thanks SP and Giuseppe, please don't expect a masterpiece though. It's great and very motivating to have your interest, please feel free to offer up any advice, however simple it may seem. This is all very new to me so I will need plenty of help!
Hoping to be able to post some proper progress pictures soon.
Richie
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OK Richie, a piece of advice.
Get in the habit of writing down what you are going to do step by step before you do it. It can be to yourself, to an e-mail modeling buddy or even post it on the forum. That part doesn't matter much. The important thing is you writing it out. Makes you think it through more thoroughly, because when you read it back to yourself it needs to make sense. Edit until it does and then follow your steps. More often than not it goes fairly much as hoped/expected. If not it is easy to pin down what didn't work and figure how to deal with it. I find it helps me through complicated or new procedures. Hope you find it of some use.
As they say, "Scratch and get glad."
sp
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That is great advice SP, it's a far cry from the shake and bake Spitfires and Hurricanes I am more accustomed to. I will definitely do that. Funnily enough I feel less overwhelmed by this project than by the first WNW kit I tried, mostly because a mistake isn't going to ruin an expensive kit but also because it's just going to be a bit of fun to beat the lock down blues. :)
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Good luck, Richie!
You can do this!!
vB ;)
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Hi Richie
I love the Bristol Scout so am following your build with much interest. I couldn't scratch build a model to save myself so am in awe of anyone who can do this. I did make the Gavia 1/48 scale kit and found it a most enjoyable albeit dainty build.
Please post your progress reports on the forum.
cheers
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Thanks B Von B and Dave. I'm in awe of scratch builders too and am not starting this with any high hopes. It feels fun and exciting though so even if I don't make a success I will not have lost anything except a few styrene sheets and strips.
I have found a resin engine on ebay but it is coming from Russia so may not get here for a very long time. Today I will experiment with building the engine and try to get the frame finished.
Thanks for the interest
Richie
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Following with interest Richie 8)
Terri
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A worthy project, Sir.
Looking forward to seeing what you do.
As I work in the 'gentleman's scale' I expect few of my tricks would be of use, but I will repeat that I know scratch-building is more a matter of nerve than skill. If you have the nerve to start, the skill will be there.
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Thanks Terri and Old Man, any nuggets of wisdom of modelling you might cast my way would be gladly received. Believe it or not I used styrene sheet for the first time this year so am a total novice at this kind of thing.
Well it may seem like I have done very little but I have been using every available moment to get something done and after many hours spent making a plug and trying to vac form a cowling I hoisted the white flag on that method. The part was coming out far too thin and brittle.
Salvation came from a bottle top (Hot pepper Sauce, yummy), this was sanded down, the top was cut out and a piece of of circular styrene sheet with the right sized aperture was added from my cutting machine. When this replica was first built it didn't have the vast vent in the cowling seen today which was cut to aid cooling and castor oil dispersal. I decided to go with how it looked when first flown. It will make life much simpler later.
I hope the owner don't mind me posting this photograph but it was on their facebook page so is in the public domain.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50071875143_81fc97eec8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jhFs18)Bristol Scout 1264 (https://flic.kr/p/2jhFs18) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Who wouldn't want to have a crack at modelling that?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50072416661_ab82f73e36_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jhJdYD)Bristol Scout 1264 Cowling (https://flic.kr/p/2jhJdYD) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
It's not much but it took a heck of a long time and with a bit of refinement I think I can use it.
Thanks for reading, all offers of advice, criticisms are most welcome. Have a great weekend evrybody.
Richie
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A little polishing and there's nothing wrong with that!
Everyone has to find what methods and material work for them. I'm sure you're learning a lot as you go along.
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You can pick away with your questions Richie and will try my best to answer them for you .
Ken has a very good point . There are no set rules too scratchbuilding , use whatever you have or can use for making parts and go with what methods works for you .
You said that on the cowl you tried to vac-form but it come out thin and brittle . The sheet you used was to thin causing not enough plastic to form the shape . When you have a next go at it try using a thicker sheet such as .40 thou card or even .35 thou .
I agree with Ken , nothing wrong with the cowl you made now , nicely done ;)
Terri
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Thanks Terri and Ken. Yes thicker sheet makes perfect sense, I will order some and have a play. Been filing away at the thick plastic thread inside the cowling/bottle top and thinning the walls. It's a long job with a file. Think I need to invest in a Dremel!
On the subject of wings. Do you laminate the sheets, bend then cut the profile or is that the wrong order?
The top wing has a level centre section with a considerable dihedral to the outer sections. I'm guessing this needs to be made in 3 pieces and pinned together.
Glad I didn't think this through before starting, I would never have started! :)
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Sounds like the top wing will need to be done in 3 parts due to the dihedral.
The reason for laminating the wing is to get the cambered shape with less sanding. One could use a single thick sheet of styrene and sand in the wing profile, but I choose to do less sanding and get the camber by laminating thin sheets (five 0.020") together, taping it over a round object. I have a glass jug that I use. The picture below shows the plastic sheets taped to the glass jug while curing. Try to avoid air bubbles between the layers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBDzPL57/Hanriot-12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I tried the Gorilla glue (polyurethane based) in the picture, but it didn't work. I use liquid styrene glue to laminate. Apply thin layers with a brush - too much will make the styrene too soft and it won't be sandable (learned from experience).
After curing a couple of days, untape the sheets and trace the wing profile onto it to cut it out.
For the wing rib detail, I emboss the ribs on 0.010" styrene sheet and glue on the top surface, like laminating the other sheets. Here's a pic of the skins.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3K9nsrz/Hanriot-15.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here I am gluing the skin on the top surface of the wing. Using the air inflated bag ensure even pressure across the entire surface without messing up the embossing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkpcwYqz/Hanriot-37.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4c2jwXj/Hanriot-49.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Hope all this makes sense. This is why it takes me 6 months to complete a scratchbuild!
Again, this is just my method that has worked for me.
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Ken, thank you so much, that is a brilliant explanation of the technique, I will definitely be trying this method. I have most of what I need to hand but will need to order more styrene sheets. Less sanding sounds very appealing after the 3 day battle of the bottle top.
I am in no way surprised that it takes 6 months for you to complete a scratch build Ken, having seen your immaculate results and exacting methods it is time very well spent.
Speaking of the bottle top, I had completely forgotten that I had ordered an engine from ebay over2 months ago! This is the same one I mentioned in an earlier post from Russia. Anybody heard of a company called Newport max? I certainly hadn't, well it arrived and is quite presentable but far too big for my cowling. Luckily very little of it will be seen so after butchering the cylinders and much scraping, filing and sanding of the cowling I think it passes.I will do a bit of work on the visible part of the engine to pretty it up a bit.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50075840541_f9ae04035b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji2LM4)20200704_173022 (https://flic.kr/p/2ji2LM4) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Lots more sanding, priming and buffing needed to make it presentable but that's just a regular process. One major hurdle cleared, so many left!
Richie
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Hi, Richie.
I just recently saw those engines on evil bay and wondered about them. They are the only Le Rhone 9C engines in 1/32 scale I have found. How was your buying experience? The engine looks good in your picture, but not all is visible. What is your opinion of the level of detail. How do the cylinder heads look?
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It's a very detailed engine Ken. I can't compare it to any other after market engines because I have never bought one before.
Due to the pandemic it seems to have travelled here by land and sea. It took a few months to arrive which is why I completely forgot about it.
It certainly is light years ahead of what comes with the Special Hobby Nieuport 11. There was a lot of cleaning up to do and I managed to knock off most of the spark plugs. I doubt you are as clumsy as me though so won't be a problem.
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You may feel like you haven't done much but to Me that cowling and how you made it is Brilliant. The engine looks great in it's proper home!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, you're a great source of encouragement and inspiration.
Ken, I forgot to mention. The engine does not come with push rods. The casing does have holes for them, I have been adding short 7mm brass tube sleeves with 5mm rod into them. Can't upload pictures to Flickr at the moment, have taken a close up of a cylinder head to show you when I can. I like the engine so much I have ordered another. He only has 2 left so you might have to be quick.
Flickr's back on,here it is Ken.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50076790536_0e942e29c2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji7Dbh)NewportMax cylinder head Le Rhone 9c 1/32 (https://flic.kr/p/2ji7Dbh) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Here I have added push rods. I had to severely disfigure the engine to make it fit so no picture of the whole thing. ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50077042532_276a8ae6c9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji8W63)20200704_225156 (https://flic.kr/p/2ji8W63) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Richie
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Nice clean work on the pushrods Richie and the cowl , man that looks really good :)
Terri
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Yes, what shows there is really good.
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Well done so far Richie!
I only want to mention, that the engine should be moved a bit more inside the cowling, compared with the pic on page 1. But I guess you have not fixed it yet.
Here I am gluing the skin on the top surface of the wing. Using the air inflated bag ensure even pressure across the entire surface without messing up the embossing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkpcwYqz/Hanriot-37.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Lovely picture Ken! Very clever construction :D
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks for the encouragement chaps, I haven't had time for a few days but did manage to visit Old Warden aerodrome en route to visiting my elderly parents yesterday after restrictions were eased here recently.
I have added some pictures with lots of little details and even some interior shots to the reference library here;
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11308.0
Franks, thanks, I haven't fixed the engine in place yet, am having to do a lot of thinning of the cowling to get a better fit, it's a long job with a scalpel and file!
Hope to get more done this week when I get some more styrene sheets delivered.
Richie
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Excellent detail photos Richie. Thanks for adding them!
RAGIII
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This scratchbuilding thing is VERY difficult! Thought I'd have a go at making the tail plane. All was well until I attempted to skin the laminated cores, the first effort took many hours and was so bad I didn't take any photographs, the second attempt was going promisingly until I knocked a bottle of liquid adhesive over and badly damaged the surface, I attempted to rescue it but then realised I had used the wrong diagram anyway and had been making the tail plane of a Scout D, oops!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50089744423_078fc09271_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjg2Va)Fail (https://flic.kr/p/2jjg2Va) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I embossed the rib tapes with a biro using my cutting mat to lean on and this picked up the texture of the mat so was pretty bad all round.
The third effort was a lot more promising and far less time consuming, I made new cores and did the embossing using a sheet of card to lean on. Unfortunately I damaged the surface of the skin with my finger nails and when I laid out the elevators it became apparent that my centre line wasn't central.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50090696216_033e0be203_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjkURo)Fail 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2jjkURo) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I don't think this is fixable so I will have another go tomorrow. It's a good job I ordered more styrene sheets, I think I'm going to need quite a lot of it at this rate.
I will use the failed efforts for painting practice and make sure I measure and mark out more carefully next time. I actually feel encouraged despite the disasters, although I have nothing useable yet my efforts are getting a little better each time.
Thanks for reading
Richie
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These are mistakes you only make once. Scratch a few models and the time wasted is prorated out between them all and so doesn't add up to much.....At least that's what I tell myself. Sometimes it helps. And knocking liquid cement over on a scratch built part is nowhere near the disaster that knocking it over onto an expensive kit part would be. All in all it sounds like you are progressing apace.
sp
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It took three attempt to get the stabilos and elevators of my V-1500 right. I made four rudders before I had anything that looked a bit "ridder-ish".
Mr. Evergreen can buy a nice car from my investments in his styrene.
This is my first scratch build too, and it doesn't come easy. As Richard (RLWP) said in my build log: "...experience is earned the hard way. It teaches you loads, the best of which is persistence..."
Have faith!
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am having to do a lot of thinning of the cowling to get a better fit, it's a long job with a scalpel and file!
Richie, for that job I use some milling heads. But in styrene with a hand tool, not machine. So I have much better control and the tool do not get hot and destroy the part. The picture is a bit dark, but I hope it shows them clear enough.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BqWBYLg3mL87Msgvpf0EWOYiOX5l47WK)
Cheers,
Frank
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Thank you chaps, I'm keeping the faith. It's a very steep and slippery learning curve to scramble up but I hope to become a better modeller by the end of it
I had a 4th attempt tonight and think I might be getting somewhere at last. That was good advice from Richard, we have to keep at it or we'll never get any better.
Frank, you gem, that is a perfect solution. I will be ordering one of those milling heads straight away. That's exactly what I need and a lot cheaper than a Dremel!
I have a lot of time on my hands and the weather is awful so hope to get a lot more done. I have to completely rebuild the fuselage frame too because the two halves didn't line up properly. It's going to be a long haul!
Richie
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Richie, The tail feathers were really looking great! The next effort should be perfect as it seems you have learned the process and now are aware of the proper center!
RAGIII
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Richie, The tail feathers were really looking great! The next effort should be perfect as it seems you have learned the process and now are aware of the proper center!
RAGIII
Thanks Rick, the next effort was so nearly there but I decided the elevators were far too thick so I had another go, the 5th attempt I think. These might have to do but the trailing edges are probably still a bit too thick. I'm using 0.2mm sheet for the skins and the elevators are a single layer of 0.5mm sheet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50093959692_4c0855cc7e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjCCYd)20200709_132546 (https://flic.kr/p/2jjCCYd) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The real thing has an incredibly delicate set of tail feathers which are quite an important feature.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50084599907_159477cd82_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiNECB)_V5A6856 (https://flic.kr/p/2jiNECB) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Looks like there will have to be an attempt No. 6. I may try to make it one piece and just scribe the join.
Richie
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Richie
You start your scratch build the day that I have to go away for over a week....! Now you are half way through the build and I have not been able to compliment you on your efforts!!!
I completely agree with what has been written so far - practice is the only way to learn, and the person who never made a mistake never made anything. Some seriously good advice has been offered already, but of all I would repeat what Steve (SMP) has written - write out your procedure beforehand. I often spend time thinking several stages ahead and then write down notes - just for me. When writing I sometimes have to cross things out as new ideas or possible problems come to mind. When in the process of building, the notes are a guide, not a set of instructions - be ready to be flexible.
I also find that the simpler the procedure and tools the easier the task - it is so easy to over complicate things. Frank's comment about machine tools is also apposite - I rarely use my Dremmel and when I do it is not on plastic because the latter melts and clogs the tool head. Also you have much finer control by hand even if it does take a bit longer. The comment about making your parts fit the aftermarket parts is also very good - who is going to know if your fuselage is 2mm too big because it was made to fit an aftermarket engine? As for making several parts before you get it right, my advice is that as you gain experience, those problems will markedly decrease - I can usually make something properly first time these days, but it was not always so.
With reference to frames, do you know of this method of holding things together and keeping them the same size? This was a Bleriot fuselage frame that I made in the True Scale many years ago:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4330/35384165064_0e9a94e625_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VUM6vs)
It does not guarantee 100% success but in my experience I have very few failures using this method. It is simple and quick!
I intend to follow this thread closely now because you will be teaching the rest of us some useful tricks - and I for one want to know what they are. There is so much to learn in this hobby, and so many teachers!
Stephen.
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Ditto to what LM has said. Think, try, learn and persevere. It will definitely be worth it! ;D We will be watching and learning too. Have fun!
Best regards,
Bob
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Stephen, very good to have you back. Although I am struggling to make progress I can't thank you enough for encouraging me down this road. I'm really enjoying all the problem solving it involves. Even if I have not managed to solve many yet!
My milling attachments arrived today and made short work of thinning the cowling. I had another go at making the frame. I used the good old fashioned pins and balsa board technique but somehow managed to mess up the alignment again. I think I know what is going wrong now and believe I have the solution so hopefully I will get it done over the weekend.
Bob, thanks for the encouragement. I shall be making 'Think, try, learn, persevere' my motto. It sounds like good advice for life too!
I'm having great fun still despite having to stock up on more styrene sheets. I will get there in the end, I have so much passion for this project I won't be easily discouraged. I'm even contemplating my next scratch build project already. That will be from another era but will feature a mix of old biplane technology, something that was rather active 80 years ago today. ;)
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I think you're progressing well, Ritchie. As smperry said, most of these mistakes will only be made once, or until you find a method that you like. Then you will move on to another challenge. And there will always be another challenge because scratchbuilding always leads to something new.
If I end up making something twice, (or more) before the second attempt, I examine what I have already done carefully to identify ALL the changes I want to make in the next part - its just a thought process I go through to improve as rapidly as possible.
And as Stephen alluded to, no one knows everything and everyone knows something. You will be teaching us things as you go through this build.
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Thanks chaps, I'm really appreciating the encouragement and needing the advice!
Stephen, I went the old Kiel Kraft balsa route and it worked out a lot better. The frame is not perfectly aligned by any means but the shape is pretty accurate, I need to add formers for the turtle deck, should I add the stringers too or is that an unnecessary complication? I would prefer not to as it looks like a fiddly and potentially frustrating process.
The milling head in a pin vice worked a treat for thinning the cowling, thanks for that Frank.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50109743452_2611e8fe5b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jm2wW1)20200713_215111 (https://flic.kr/p/2jm2wW1) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Again, it's not much but every little step has needed many attempts and a lot of thinking and planning. I'm looking forward to adding some interior details now, I had a very short lived attempt to scratch a wicker seat before realising it was way beyond me and ordering a resin one.
I had a little play with aluminium from a coke tin today, has anybody formed cowlings and panels from sheet aluminium? it seemed like fun and embossing rivet details is quite straightforward. I don't think I will be using it on this build but maybe some time in the fututre.
Thanks for reading
Richie
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Richie, this project is coming along very nicely indeed! Your patient persistence is paying off. Keep up the good work! ;D
Brest regards,
Bob
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The fuselage frame and fire wall look Superb Richie! Very impressive work from My point of view!
RAGIII
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I'm impressed Richie , very well done so far 8)
Terri
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Beautiful Richie
Looks square and true in all aspects. Not an easy task in any scale. Your first rate frame will make skinning it easier.
sp
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I am not as frequently here these days as I am normally. And this is the reason I didn‘t really realize yet what’s going on here. A scratchbuilding project is always something special. The first of such projects is it even more. And you do a great job here Richie, I really love what I see. The Bristol Scout is a good choice for a first scratchbuild, I think. I am keen on following your progress!
Andreas
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If that is not much then I want to know what a great deal is! You are making excellent progress there - never mind if the fuselage frame is not 100% square - the skinning will help to conceal any minor irregularities. What you have made so far is very impressive indeed and has all the hallmarks of a first class build in progress.
Personally I would not bother with stringers - as I have commented previously keep things as simple as possible. It means fewer mistakes and less frustration! I confess that these days I only add details which can be seen on the finished model - life is too short otherwise. I did try to use aluminium on my FB5 Gunbus but gave up because I could not get a good join between the metal and plastic which I was using to represent fabric,. However shaping the aluminium was not difficult, although I did not try to make a cowling from it. Provided that you do not wish to represent stitching on the join between the metal and fabric I do not see why it should not be possible to get a clean joint: as always try it and see how you get on! And do not forget to report back, even if it does not work - we can all learn from others.
Stephen
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I have tried to use Coke can metal, but it is too stiff for easy working. It can be annealed with a butane torch, but its easier to use aluminum from a disposable cooking pan, or pie pan. I look for the thick, heavy gauge ones. Start scrounging around!
Like Stephen, I only add detail if it can be seen or needed for structural reasons.
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Hi Sorry to arrive but I have material which can interest you.
Very accurate drawings given by David Bremer who rebuilted his grand father Scout , the 1264...
(https://nsa40.casimages.com/img/2020/07/14/200714050407608848.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/200714050407608848.jpg.html)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91Vda8E9tjL.jpg)
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/77flAWrdLM4/maxresdefault.jpg)
give me your mail and I will send you them...
Xan
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Thanks for the encouragement chaps, it really does help me keep motivated despite the difficulties I am encountering at every stage.
Xan, that is so generous of you. That will be a huge help, the very basic drawings I am working from have me very confused about a few things!
Richie
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Unfortunately I have broken my thumb in three places playing cricket so there won't be any updates here for a while. That will teach me to sledge an Aussie fast bowler less than half my age! :)
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Ouch!!!! That must have been and still probably is painful! Sorry to hear that, take it slow and easy and use some of your recuperation time for research on this and your next project Richie. Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Lance, yes it's pretty sore still but I'm making the best of it like you suggest by researching the build and planning what has to be done in which order. I got a beautiful Barracuda resin wicker seat delivered today so I'm planning the interior and the various attachments for wings , undercarriage legs and Vickers MG.
Richie
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Sorry to hear that you injured yourself Richie. Make sure you put all the critical pieces you have made for your Bristol Scout in a safe box and toss in a few notes to yourself where you were and where you were headed and how you intended to get there. It will really help when you resume work as the thumb gets better. Even a couple weeks away from a build and you will find yourself forgetting what you meant to do next before you had to pause.
In the mean time, get a grip on a nice stiff drink with your good hand.
sp
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Thanks SP, that is excellent advice. Especially the bit about the stiff drink. Currently glass in hand, watching Midway and contemplating building a Wildcat or Dauntless.
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You are well on the way to recovery. :-)
sp
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I hope the injury heals quickly Richie! It is a shame that you are forced to drink Beer and watch Aviation Movies 8)
RAGIII
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Haha, thanks Rick. There are definitely worse ways to pass the time. :)
Watched Flyboys yesterday, got the Blue Max to watch today.
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Managed to do a little for the first time in a week today, simple tasks only while my thumb is still giving me grief. The ribs didn't line up very well on the last effort, I must be improving because it only took 15 minutes. Next job was the rudder, again this was pretty problem free. The ribs were embossed with a ball point pen, with the rib lines drawn on the rudder getting things lined up was a very simple job. I will tidy the edges up another time and start detailing the interior once my bashed up hand is up to it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50152047482_0491eb5e87_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jpLmrQ)20200725_150947 (https://flic.kr/p/2jpLmrQ) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50151261068_ecea23bab4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jpGjEY)20200725_152742 (https://flic.kr/p/2jpGjEY) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The shape of the forward fuselage is really confusing me, I have plenty time to figure out how to make it but there has been much head scratching!
Hope to have a more meaningful update sometime soon.
Thanks for watching
Richie
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Good looking set of tailfeathers Richie. St.Harry couldn't have done better himself.
sp
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Thanks SP, I'm so pleased you introduced me to the gospel according to St. Harry. I have been reading his words of wisdom over and over since getting a second hand copy, :)
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Just getting caught up on your progress Richie and I'm shocked to hear about your thumb , but glad to hear you are on the med and making progress . Nice job on the tail feathers and the frame is shaping up awesome so far . Really impressive work so far , keep at it and take your time . Now go have a few stiff drinks for the thumb ;)
Terri
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Excellent work on the tail surfaces Richie. The embossed ribs look Fantastic!
RAGIII
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Just a little update, I have been doing a lot of head scratching while trying to figure out how to shape the front end and have strong enough attachment points for the undercarriage struts and cabanes. In the end the answer was pretty obvious and simplicity itself. Once the formers were attached I just filled the gaps with scraps of balsa and milliput and sanded to shape. Balsa blocks were added to where the undercarriage legs will be attached by pins. This made it all very nose heavy so I added milliput to the last cell which will hopefully give me a strong attachment point for the rudder and tail skid. The lower fuselage is not open where the tail skid attaches so this is not a problem.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50163363497_8934799faf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqLmix)20200728_164158 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqLmix) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The top panel behind the engine cowling has numerous rivets that are quite a prominent feature.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49864141697_5169009b31_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjL5Z)20191116_104554 (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjL5Z) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I made a paper template and then had a play at embossing rivets on styrene sheet. I first drew the lines and attempted to dot them in individually with a broken micro drill bit. The result was predictably and comically appalling!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50162576253_916abf2205_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqGjhn)20200728_164602 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqGjhn) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
A few years ago I bout a riveting wheel which had never even been out of the packaging, a quick little play and we have nice evenly spaced rivets. The tool even comes with 3 different wheels to produce differently spaced rivets. This is definitely the way to go!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50162576218_b709d80c89_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqGjgL)20200728_164527 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqGjgL) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Next step is to finish shaping the nose then I can start thinking about adding the interior detail and making the wings before skinning starts.
Many thanks for reading, I hope my first attempt at adding the rivets wasn't too disturbing!
Richie :)
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You have to do something like the first effort so that when you get it right like the second one, you get the full measure of satisfaction you are entitled to.
sp
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Good to see that this one is on the move again Richie. Yes the rivet problem is best solved with one of those wheels... guess how I know!
I have found that plastic bar is only strong enough if reinforced at critical points such as joints for wings and undercarriage. Your solution is simple but very effective - scratch building at its best.
Stephen.
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I have Trum 's riveting tool . I is handy for doing lines bit when only one or two is need or a circle I use this
https://www.ultracast.ca/product-p/mdc_me32005.htm (https://www.ultracast.ca/product-p/mdc_me32005.htm)
Also have the 48 scale one as well . I like how you handled the the top and tail of fuselage , neat idea !
Terri
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Fantastic progress Richie. Your problem solving skills are excellent!
RAGIII
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Thanks so much for you kind words chaps, your encouragement and generosity are highly motivating.
While I continue to ponder the shape of the fuselage sides immediately behind the cowling I thought I would have a play with the top wing.
The central section is level while the wings have a lot of dihedral. I thought starting with one piece, shaping the aerofoil then cutting out the central section would be a good way to ensure a constant shape. I did this with sanding, boiling water, bending and iced water.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50171193622_1d7717d1da_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jrstVG)Top wing aerofoil shape sanded. (https://flic.kr/p/2jrstVG) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
So one piece of 2mm styrene warps under handling, hhmmmm. I taped it to my steel ruler and treated it with boiling water followed by cold water, not perfect but much better.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50170935966_ab676cdd08_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jrrakm)Warp almost cured. (https://flic.kr/p/2jrrakm) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Having done that I decided it was time for a drink, by English standards the weather is furiously hot and I had to do a heck of a lot of sanding. I'm wondering the best way to cut the central section out, having shaped it, the use of an engineer's square is tricky.
I then thought I may have been better off using using Harry Woodman's balsa core method. Pinning the wings together would be a breeze. The more I thought about the more I was convinced it was a good idea so I ordered a sheet of balsa and will try that technique too. Hope to get this prototype wing finished tomorrow. If it doesn't work out I can use it to experiment with painting the translucent CDL and roundels.
Richie
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Richie
To cut, you should use a fine tooth saw. You loose the kerf, but you do not distort the plastic as you would using a blade even with many fine cuts, it pushes the plastic aside and makes a distorted ridge on either side of the cut. A balsa core is likely better as it is easier to sand, though a fine smear of 30 min epoxy is better than double sided tape. My PS.7 wings delaminated from the core after a few months when the double sided tape let loose. Maybe a better double sided tape would have held, but a light coat of epoxy sure would have held if it had been properly pressed together as it cured.
sp
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Thanks as always SP, yes the double sided tape method is a concern and I was wondering which glue would be best. Now I know! I think balsa would be better all round, I do worry about the masses of tiny plastic particles I have released into the environment. It's fun to experiment though and it keeps me out of mischief. :)
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Well, I cut out the centre top wing section with a Tamiya saw and scriber. Made a template and cut the shape of left wing (I never remember my port from starboard) and shaped the edges to the correct shape.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50172313213_0aa1fe54c7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jrydJZ)20200731_112054 (https://flic.kr/p/2jrydJZ) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
This was getting very exciting so I quickly cut the shape of the right hand wing, except in my excitement I didn't.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50172313228_6898735048_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jrydKf)20200731_112121 (https://flic.kr/p/2jrydKf) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
ARGHHHH!!!!! Not the first and almost certainly not the last time I will do something like this. I could use one for the lower wing as they are the same shape and size but I've had enough of wings for now and will wait for my balsa sheet to arrive and hope for better.
In the meantime, more head scratching and pondering over shaping the nose and it's time to start adding some interior details.
Best wishes all
Richie
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Good progress, Ritchie. You're figuring out what will work for you. Due to the wing's thickness (pretty thin, actually), the balsa core may not work out as well, but you will have to find out. An all styrene wing gives the opportunity to make strong glue joints at the wing roots. I would typically put in a couple of metal pins to reinforce the joint. Drill oversize holes for the pins and fill with epoxy when putting the pins in and setting the dihedral angle between the pieces. Food for thought.
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Thanks Ken, I have enough 2mm sheet to have another go. I may even be able to use what I have, I can definitely see your point about an all styrene wing but I'm keen to explore as many techniques as I can at this early stage of my scratch building career. It's certainly a massive challenge but I am enjoying it.
Richie
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As long as you are enjoying the journey, that's all that matters.
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Following your build, and also your enjoyment of the learning process is inspiring! The wing is looking great and by now I am confident you will get them the way you want them!
RAGIII
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Richie you might consider laminating 2 x 1mm sheets. You can curve these first using hot water, then glue them together - they are unlikely to delaminate if you use enough liquid cement. I agree with drilling and pinning the wings at the dihedral joint - it is a method I normally use in these situations. Because the wing is so thin I would not use the balsa core method - but then I do not favour that method even for thicker wings - just a personal thing.
Good luck with the learning curve - it is all good fun provided that you do not fall off!
Stephen.
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Thanks chaps, yes that sounds like a good approach Stephen. Got a few days with no bench time available so have been pondering the build whilst wandering round the zoo and tomorrow I will be umpiring a cricket match. I'm loving the problem solving that is involved in scratch building. I'm not feeling the pressure that the possibility of ruining an expensive kit brings. I have just ordered a few spitfires though, well 80 years ago and all that. Got to really. :)
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Cool stuff, Rich! And also kudo's to everyone offering advice and tips, this is really what makes this such a great Forum! :)
Jeroen (when not working on my 1/72 Corsairs I'm modifying ejections seats for my off-topic 1/32 A-6A Intruder...)
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Cool stuff, Rich! And also kudo's to everyone offering advice and tips, this is really what makes this such a great Forum! :)
Jeroen (when not working on my 1/72 Corsairs I'm modifying ejections seats for my off-topic 1/32 A-6A Intruder...)
Many thanks Jeroen, yes this forum is amazing. Without all the great advice so generously offered by the brilliant, gifted modellers here I certainly wouldn't be attempting this project!
It's been far too hot here to spend time at the bench today and tomorrow is forecast to be much the same. Yesterday I did manage to sit outside in the shade and have a whittle on a balsa sheet to see if I could make a wing core. The real challenge is to make it thin enough and retain symmetry.
I started with a single piece of balsa long enough to make all of the wings with a bit of excess in case of mishaps. By laying it out along a BBQ table top and sanding in long strokes with a curved sanding block I think I may have got there. It was a hugely time consuming process but I don't mind that as I have no work on at the moment and England were playing very poorly against Pakistan in the test match. I used a foam cored sanding block which was easily bent and held into the required shape.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196072723_10bdf7f049_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtDZBH)Bristol Scout top wing balsa core and frame. (https://flic.kr/p/2jtDZBH) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
You can see how thin it is here. The edges have been reinforced with extra thin CA glue to hold them together.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196072798_5b805036f9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtDZD1)Scout top wing balsa core and frame. (https://flic.kr/p/2jtDZD1) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The shape of the fuselage side just behind the cowling has been bothering me for a long time. In the end I just filled the area with milliput and sanded back from the firewall and it automatically assumed pretty much the correct the shape. It's certainly good enough for me in my first foray into the mysterious world of scratch building!
I have no idea at all how I am going to skin the core, the options seem to be double sided tape which I'm not sure I fancy much, CA glue which I fancy even less. I am also a little conflicted about skinning with a single piece of styrene bent over both surfaces or separate top and bottom skins like I used for the tail feathers. I suspect I will stick with what I know here.
Many thanks for reading, please feel free to offer any advice or criticisms. I am not in any way precious about my hobby and am desperately keen to learn from the great modellers here.
Richie
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Excellent work Richie! I think you are well on your way to making it all work. By the way the wood tones on the fuselage frame look great!
RAGIII
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great work until now...
remember that the balsa core must be sealed, else it will get loose and the the skin will make bubbles or waves (I experimented that on my models). You can use thinned cement (britfix or the like), pva glue or gloss warnish mixed with talco powder. Once the sealer is cured, sand it with thin sanding paper. Use superglue or bicomponent to fix the skin, or follow the old method using double-side tape, but this will tend to de-bond with aging.
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Hey Richie , For the core brush on Testors liquid cement or Tamiya liquid cement ( white cap ) let it dry , do this a few times . This will seal the wood and give the double side tape to bite on to . My FE-8 wings were done this way and it has been 10 years and wings are still holding strong ;)
Terri
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Excellent work Richie! I think you are well on your way to making it all work. By the way the wood tones on the fuselage frame look great!
RAGIII
Thanks as ever Rick, very slowly I'm getting there. I'm loving Vallejo model colour paints. I used a pretty spontaneous mix of brown and orange for the frame.
Thanks for the advice Terri and Ermeio, I was wondering if the core should be sealed. It certainly makes sense! Would Tamiya rattle can primer be any good?
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I use the old fashioned but tested talcum powder and dope mixture for filling wood grain. Works every time and sands to a mirror finish. Personally I would use superglue to hold the plastic sheet in place if I were using this method. If I were to use wood at all I would simply sand, fill and paint and not bother with the plastic - who will see it? Ailerons can be easily scribed or better, cut, so IMHO there is no need for a plastic skin and all the complications that brings in its train.
Stephen.
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I use the old fashioned but tested talcum powder and dope mixture for filling wood grain. Works every time and sands to a mirror finish. Personally I would use superglue to hold the plastic sheet in place if I were using this method. If I were to use wood at all I would simply sand, fill and paint and not bother with the plastic - who will see it? Ailerons can be easily scribed or better, cut, so IMHO there is no need for a plastic skin and all the complications that brings in its train.
Stephen.
Thanks Stephen, that's an interesting possibility. I was wondering if that sort of approach might be possible. Plenty of food for thought here. I think I'll have to experiment a little with scrap pieces to see which is most likely to be enjoyable and successful.
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Richie, you're running a scratch build here like you've never done anything else before! Super work!
Cheers,
Frank
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I use the old fashioned but tested talcum powder and dope mixture for filling wood grain. Works every time and sands to a mirror finish. Personally I would use superglue to hold the plastic sheet in place if I were using this method. If I were to use wood at all I would simply sand, fill and paint and not bother with the plastic - who will see it? Ailerons can be easily scribed or better, cut, so IMHO there is no need for a plastic skin and all the complications that brings in its train.
Stephen.
I agree completely with Stephen ... If you do not find the dope, Humbrol or Tamiya clear are something equivalent.
Two or three thick layers of Humbrol 35 laid by brush and sanded between each pass will do, even without talcum.
The best option remains the old fashioned britfix (or nologo chinese glue) thinned with liquid cement, but I think it has some hazard and smells a lot.
It is important that the filler grips to the wood, which in my experience is not the case with primer in spray can. Primer in spray can tends to grip to the skin and to get loose from the wooden core. It is important that the wooden core has a waterproof surface.
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Richie, you're running a scratch build here like you've never done anything else before! Super work!
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks Frank, it's taking a long time. I seem to be spending 3 hours thinking for every hour of modelling. It's fun though!!
Thank Ermeio, really appreciate your advice. Won't get any time for it today but I'll see what I can do tomorrow.
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Thanks Frank, it's taking a long time. I seem to be spending 3 hours thinking for every hour of modelling. It's fun though!!
That is what scratch building is about Richie! There is no such thing as a weekend scratch build!!
Stephen.
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I seem to be spending 3 hours thinking for every hour of modelling.
I think that I have the same rate even with building kits! ::)
But I scratch a lot of parts, so a lot of recherche and finding ways to do things is needed.
Cheers,
Frank
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Ritchie,
I think you are doing a great job. My tailplane parts look a mess with all the filling and priming.
Good tips from our fellow builders about the sealing of balsa also.
I can't give you much advice since the V/1500 is also my first scratch build.
And cutting off the wrong end of the wing could happen to me easily also.
Willem
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i've only just stumbled upon this build and am loving it, keep up the great work 8)
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How goes the build Richie ?
Terri
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Thanks so much for dropping by to comment or ask about progress chaps. I really do appreciate your interest.
Unfortunately during the recent ferocious heatwave I completely got out of the modelling habit so everything is still as it was. This build hasn't been abandoned, I have all the parts stored in boxes and will get back to it soon.
Happy modelling everybody, I'll be back to normal activity levels soon and look forward to catching up with all your builds.
Richie :)
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Well, it's been a difficult year to say the least! I have done an awful lot of drinking and absolutely no modelling since my last update but after a few dry weeks the world is a much better place and I have been back at the bench with my old enthusiasm restored.
I burned out before by overthinking everything and worrying that the end result would be awful but I remembered that so long as I have fun and end up with something vaguely Scouty in appearance I will be very happy!
I made a start on the instrument panel, here is the original;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50083574998_07c818ddd5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiHpXL)Bristol Scout 1264 (https://flic.kr/p/2jiHpXL) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I'll just go for a passing resemblance!
The base is plastic sheet with wood veneer over the top. I have no idea what the brass dome with a rocker switch is I made it with brass rod filed to a dome shape. I then drilled a hole for it and cut it to length, painted the aluminium 'sleeve' on and glued it in. I might CA a little piece of wire as a rock switch later, probably not though!
Likewise I have no idea what the instrument above is, I used brass tube filled it with Krystal clear and in it went to a pre drilled hole. Spare bits of brass etch were used to make the map frame (not very square!) the middle was painted. I shall cover the middle with gloss varnish. Next up the vertical tube (again no idea!) I just used brass rod and white paint. The pipe that comes from it is Maxima fishing line threaded through and again through a hole drilled in the panel. The white paper discs are just to give an idea of where the other instrument will go. I have some Airscale decals and some bezels are on order. I think they will be too big but I have a cunning plan if that proves to be the case.
To the naked eye it lookd OK but in brutal close up, not so good! I don't mind though, I'm just pleased to be back! :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51113118254_84eab54d1d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSG6iy)Scout IP progress (https://flic.kr/p/2kSG6iy) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I spent yesterday fussing over the wings, there was a lot of Mr dissolved putty and sanding involved. I think these are smooth enough to be skinned now so I hope to have them and a finished instrument panel to show you soon.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51114156580_8921537972_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSMpXJ)Scout reboot (https://flic.kr/p/2kSMpXJ) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Many thanks for reading, I hope everybody has been well since I last posted.
Richie
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Hi Richie
Its great to see you back with this amazing project. The Bristol Scout is one of my favourite WW1 aircraft and I greatly admire anyone who can create one as a scratch build. I am wholly dependent on model kit manufacturers and made a Scout in 1/48th but would love to do it in a larger scale.
Your build is coming along very nicely and it's great to see your progress. Many thanks for sharing it with us.
cheers
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Hey Richie ,
It is nice to see this back on your bench with new progress ! Wings are really looking the part so far , excellent job :)
Alexis
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Outstanding progress Richie! The wings are looking great and I look forward to seeing them skinned! By the way, Thanks for scratch Building this one and setting things in Motion for the Modeling Gods to bring out a Kit 8)
RAGIII
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Thanks so much Dave, Alexis and Rick. It's great to be back at the bench. I'm going to redo the instrument panel, all that drilling holes and feeding rods and tubes through seemed like such a good idea until my drill bit slipped today. I completely forgot I had a punch and die set I could make the instruments with! Ho hum, live and learn!
Going to do the wings next before remaking the instrument panel but won't have much time until the weekend. Catch you later.
Richie
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Thanks so much Dave, Alexis and Rick. It's great to be back at the bench. I'm going to redo the instrument panel, all that drilling holes and feeding rods and tubes through seemed like such a good idea until my drill bit slipped today. I completely forgot I had a punch and die set I could make the instruments with! Ho hum, live and learn!
Going to do the wings next before remaking the instrument panel but won't have much time until the weekend. Catch you later.
Richie
A word of advice, which you are welcome to ignore if it suits you. I wouldn't remake the instrument panel - it's good enough for the job.
I decided with my first scratchbuild (The Morane Saulnier) that is unlikely to be perfect, so I'd just accept minor problems along the way, and get it finished. Then I could build my next one, which was likely to be better and still have mistakes - and so on
It's unlikely you'll produce a WNW quality model on your first attempt - however you will have something unique when it is finished
Richard
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Many thanks Richard, that sounds like very fine advice and I will gladly follow it. You are completely right of course, I only intended to have a bash at scratch building and must accept that it's going to be a bit rough round the edges!
Thanks again, you have saved me from myself! :)
Richie
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I completely agree with Richard - don't remake the instrument panel or you will never finish the build! Remember that most people will not see the mistakes because they will not look that closely at the build. I can see all of the mistakes on my scratch builds - fortunately few others do! Just accept the limitations of your time and skill and remember that most modellers will be in awe of you for having even attempted a scratch build in the first place! Never mind that it is a biplane..!
Keep going and best of luck with the wings.
Stephen
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Thanks Stephen, yes just crack on, have fun and learn from the inevitable bad decisions and blunders! As always your wisdom is greatly appreciated. I must get this finished before Copper State release their 1/32 kit! :)
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Richie, nice work and good and wise advices here!
Next up the vertical tube (again no idea!) I just used brass rod and white paint.
I think this looks like the fuel gauge.
The fuel tank is located behind the board, so it shows the fill level if connected. I like those solutions - simple and robust.
Cheers,
Frank
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As, fuel gauge, thanks Frankton! That makes sense.
Haha, my solutions have to be simple due a total lack of knowledge, experience and very little skill. I shall muddle through and get it done.
Cheers
Richie
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Hi Richie ,
I agree with the others as well , no need to redo the panel . For your first scratch build you doing really well with this project . Take your time and don't worry if some of the parts aren't perfect , your skills will improve as you keep going forward ;)
Alexis
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Thanks Alexis, it's great to have so many awesome modellers on board to offer such good advice. No bench time today but tomorrow I should finish the instrument panel and Saturday is wing skinning day. Hope to have an update for you over the weekend.
Richie
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Like the above , keep gpoing !
Ed
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Haha, my solutions have to be simple due a total lack of knowledge, experience and very little skill. I shall muddle through and get it done.
Cheers
Richie
Richie,
You have demonstrated already that you have a lot of skill - you must have or you would not be tackling a complex scratch build like this. Muddling through is what most scratch builders do - so that too is not a disadvantage. Remember that we are our own worst critics (that applies to all modellers BTW), just crack on, look past the mistakes and think that each error is a learning opportunity. Perfect models do not exist in this world.
Stephen.
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I have found modelling to be an excellent way to get to learn about a subject
Richard
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Thanks for the encouragement Stephen, I'm slowly getting over my sheer terror of making an utter mess. In fact I've come to the conclusion that this is much less intimidating than building a WNW kit because the materials are cheap and easily replaced.
Richard, totally agreed, I'm enjoying learning about this era of aviation as well as the scratch building techniques you lot use to build some of the more unusual aircraft.
Well, thanks to the advice from you amazing people I ploughed on and finished the instrument panel. I'm actually quite pleased with the results of my first attempt, it was great fun too.
What looks a bit like a bug splat to the bottom left of the panel is my attempt at a pulsometer. Again great fun and good enough for me, thankfully in the scout I am building the pulsometer was moved from the instrument panel to the cockpit frame.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51120172320_b9b1202b15_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTjfeo)Scratched Scout IP and Pulsometer (https://flic.kr/p/2kTjfeo) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Many thanks for all the advice and encouragement everybody, I'll keep muddling on and see if can get the wings skinned and the cockpit details finished this week. No deadlines though, that way lies madness! :)
Cheers
Richie
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I would counsel you to keep moving ahead. You're doing fine. There will be opportunities in the future to refine your techniques. If you make a mess, just hide it! ;D
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HAHA, thanks Ken, 'muddle on' is my new scratchbuilding motto! I'm having fun and even if I end up hiding the whole model I don't mind! ;)
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Yep, keep on muddlign...
And bear in mind, cockpits - and in particular instrument panels - are quite hard to see on biplanes
Richard
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Looking good to MY Eyes Richie. Especially considering how much larger that photo is than the actual item. Once inside the pit and all closed up it will look excellent!
RAGIII
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Haha, thanks Rick. You know, in a certain sort of light if I take my glasses off it looks pretty good to me too! ;)
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Little update, the wings are skinned at last! I have a lot of tidying to do but the step I was dreading is done. I was unable to skin the full length due to contours of the wing tips. The top wings have had milliput extensions added and been roughed into shape. A lot of work to do but I think I can make it work well enough. I missed a 'half rib' on one of the wings. Not going to attempt to fix it though.
I also whittled a rudder control bar (?) out of plastic sheet, it will probably never be seen again once installed so definitely good enough!
A pump was made out of brass tube and a pin with the pin head filed down to make the handle, again it won't be seen again once installed but it was fun to make. I'm slowly learning to just crack on and not be too hard on myself and am having fun again at the bench :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51123179933_eb9f8b8b93_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTzEhM)Wing Skinning, (https://flic.kr/p/2kTzEhM) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51124072595_9af5a4733f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTEeDv)pump, (https://flic.kr/p/2kTEeDv) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have been orderd into to garden to do manual labour for the rest of the afternoon so fixing up the wings will have to wait for another day.
Still muddling on
Richie
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Your wings are moving forward really nice Rickie , looking forward on seeing them with their final shape . Rudder bar turn out excellent as well as your pump , in all nice job on the details :)
Alexis
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This is looking really great, Rickie, with lots of useful tips and advice! I'm watching and learning... Regards, Marc
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Those parts look very good from where I am sitting. What is the fuss about? Remember that most of the cockpit parts will rarely be seen and a missing rib will certainly not be noticed. What is most important is that you are enjoying what you are doing - that is what the hobby is about. Keep going and do not look back.
Stephen.
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Your wings are moving forward really nice Rickie , looking forward on seeing them with their final shape . Rudder bar turn out excellent as well as your pump , in all nice job on the details :)
Alexis
Thanks so much Alexis, there's an awful lot of filling and sanding my future but I hope to have the wings ready for some paint in a week or so.
This is looking really great, Rickie, with lots of useful tips and advice! I'm watching and learning... Regards, Marc
Cheers Monty, it's slow going for me while I experiment and practice techniques but I'm getting a lot of guidance and encouragement from the great folks of the forum. Without them I would have thrown this in bin a long time ago!
Those parts look very good from where I am sitting. What is the fuss about? Remember that most of the cockpit parts will rarely be seen and a missing rib will certainly not be noticed. What is most important is that you are enjoying what you are doing - that is what the hobby is about. Keep going and do not look back.
Stephen.
Thanks again Stephen, yes I'm definitely having fun with the hobby and determined to get the model finished.
A little update, the instrument panel and pump are installed and I made some control levers and accompanying frame out of some not very nice photo etched brass turnbuckles and brass tube. I knew thos ghastly turnbuclkes would be useful one day!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51125884753_4f25c87eb2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTPwkB)20210419_190321 (https://flic.kr/p/2kTPwkB) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Here is the cockpit so far with this part just sitting there for now, I will glue it in place later so it doesn't get in the way while I install the other bits I need to make.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51126786050_f831cf5240_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTU9gd)Cockpit details (https://flic.kr/p/2kTU9gd) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
It's not a lot to show for 3 hours work but there was much head scratching and pondering involved.
Thanks for reading
Richie
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The details look good sitting place Richie , really good !
Yes , you will spend more time planning out how to make parts and the next stage of the build . This will improve as you continue and with future builds . What also might help is having a checklist set to different stages . Once you pass a stage ...reward yourself ! It's a great confidence booster ;)
Alexis
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I second what Alexis has written. A checklist also helps to make sure that you do not forget anything too. I call it writing the instructions!
Stephen.
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Many thanks Stephen and Alexis. I really see the value of making notes and planning now. The next item needs to be very precise due to the need for it to fit within a blister under the fuselage. I have been staring at this photo for hours trying to work out how to make it, I have even started drawing diagrams and making notes as suggested. :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51127513559_194be1c1f1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXSwt)bristol-scout-rock-tube (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXSwt) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have some ideas but need to wait for a few supplies to arrive from Wonderland Models. Until then it's the never ending cycle of fill, sand, prime, check repeat. Hope to have a more substantial update in a week or so.
Thanks for all the sage advice and encouragement.
Richie
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Lovely pictures, of real and model!
I have been orderd into to garden to do manual labour for the rest of the afternoon
That is clearly the disadvantage of spring (for the modeling community) ;D
Cheers,
Frank
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Lovely pictures, of real and model!
I have been orderd into to garden to do manual labour for the rest of the afternoon
That is clearly the disadvantage of spring (for the modeling community) ;D
Cheers,
Frank
Yes , yes it is :o
Alexis
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Lovely pictures, of real and model!
I have been orderd into to garden to do manual labour for the rest of the afternoon
That is clearly the disadvantage of spring (for the modeling community) ;D
Cheers,
Frank
I shouldn't grumble, it sounds like your version of gardening is more like forestry management Alexis! ;)
Yes , yes it is :o
Alexis
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Well the gardening is done so I had a few hours to kill today, quite a lot of time in fact. So much that I got involved with the kind of tiny little details I swore never to bother with!
I made the mount for the rock tube, a very simple little part but it took a good hour or more. The bolt heads are 0.5mm discs punched out of litho aluminium. I can barely see them without my optiivisor and I have a feeling I will never see them again once the cockpit is skinned, it was fun though! It's just sitting on the brass rod here so I don't lose it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51133229605_238815d59a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUtaGZ)Scout Rock Tube (https://flic.kr/p/2kUtaGZ) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I also made a start on the control stick and control horns. This was very time consuming and is still not finished. The hex bolts are punched out of styrene as is the 2mm disc onto which the tube will be fixed. The control horns were filed into shape out of litho aluminium after the 0.5mm holes were punched (thanks for the tip Lance and Richard). The control stick is just brass tube with a wash of Model Colour smoke. In the aircraft I am modelling the control stick is the original from the favourite wartime mount of the owner's Grandfather.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51133229635_2e5562b816_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUtaHv)Scout control column (https://flic.kr/p/2kUtaHv) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132118466_789d7d4d45_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUntpq)Scout Control stick and rock tube (https://flic.kr/p/2kUntpq) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Big thanks to Alexis and Stephen for suggesting I write notes and plans, It was a big help here!
Thanks for reading
Richie
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Fantastic work Richie! Those parts really look Great!
RAGIII
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Nice job with building up the control column Richie :)
Alexis
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Those parts are very much smaller than suggested by the photos, so you are doing a great job with them
Rather than hiding them away forever so that neither you or anyone else can appreciate you craftsmanship, why do you not leave a side panel by the cockpit open so that the interior can be seen properly? That is why my 1/32 scale builds were partially or wholly open.
Stephen.
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YES! Now Richie is clearly infected, with AMS! No way out ;D ;D
The bolt heads are 0.5mm discs punched out of litho aluminium.
What is the thickness of this? Sounds like a very interesting material. Need to look out for it ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks so much for your kind words and encouragement Rick, Alexis, Stephen and Frank. You have no idea how much it means to me coming from such brilliant modellers.
Frank, I measured the thickness with my digital caliper and it seems to be 0.15mm. Very good for 1/48 scale I'm thinking!
I'm loving working on these little details, the sanding and filling on the wings not so much. I'm contemplating a skeletal build next to avoid these problems but that's a long way off.
Stephen, that is a fantastic idea. I'll see how I get on with the few remaining components before deciding. It may mean a few more details being added than I originally planned but I am having so much fun that might not be a problem.
I hope to have the interior finished in the next few days so will update then.
Many thanks again for your kind words.
Richie :)
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Very nice detail work, Ritchie. The shapes of the connecting parts are very good.
I find making sketches of some parts is a crucial part of scratchbuilding, and planning ahead - well, you simply can't avoid that.
Continuing to follow along. You've chosen a good subject here.
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Thanks Ken, it's to have such a great team in my corner. :)
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Just a small step forward, but again a lot of time was spent head scratching and chin rubbing.
The blister below the cockpit houses the rock tube and has a cut out for the control horns attached to the stick, not a great description so here is a photograph;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50083777638_d9708ebc54_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiJscy)_V5A6866 (https://flic.kr/p/2jiJscy) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I intended to vac form this and made a plug out of a bamboo kebab skewer but my first attempt was appalling ,you can see the resulting shrapnel in the next photo. In my desperation to conserve my styrene supplies I annealed a thin sheet of aluminium and slowly molded it over the blank. A lot of filing later it looked pretty good and I was even able to make the cut out with a scalpel. It will need trimming and buffing and I may use my rivet wheel to simulate the rivets.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51145110226_7af06df7c7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVw4ph)Scout bits an' bobs (https://flic.kr/p/2kVw4ph) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The wicker seat is from Barracuda, I made a seat cushion from Milliput and used fishing line to make the piping around the edges. The paint is still wet here but I was feeling quite chuffed so took a picture.
Good night all, it's time for bed here.
Richie
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Both the aluminium rock tube and seat look super. You really must leave part of the cockpit side open so that these details can be seen - it would be a waste to conceal them.
Stephen.
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Really nice work on the control column flaring Richie . :) Fantastic job as well on the seat and cushion , going to look sharp ;)
Alexis
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Wow!
Amazing work so far, Richie -
Can't believe this is your first attempt at stratch building ..........
Regards
Dave
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Thanks so much as always for your encouragement, I would have given up a long time ago without it!
Dave, have a go a scratch building something too. I found it utterly terrifying until I realised that the raw materials are so cheap compared to a kit that making a mess isn't such a big deal. There is so much support and knowledge on offer from forum members, help is always at hand.
Another little step forward, I trimmed and buffed the aluminium fairing as much as possible, a couple of small splits were filled with talc mixed with superglue. I added added some punched 0.5mm rivets, they're a tad too big but will do, Klear was used to hold them in place.
The footboards have a raised lip, I was so worried about how to make them until I found that Evergreen make a 3.2mm wide styrene channel which is the perfect size. Bit of Tamiya flat aluminium lacquer and some more gargantuan punched rivets and they're done.
My whittled rudder bar was whittled a little further and 'painted' with and artists felt pen. Control lines are Daiwa fishing line (allegedly silver) and turnbuckles are just brass tube.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51145791987_accaee30ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVzy4M)Fairing riveted, foot boards done, rudder bar painted and rigged. (https://flic.kr/p/2kVzy4M) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Stephen, I hope to finish the internal details in the next day or so and will decide whether or not a partial strip down can work. There may need to be a lot of hidden ugliness in order to mount the wings. ;)
Many thanks for reading
Richie
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Wow, that aluminium fairing looks like the real thing!
That is pure fun to create such details, isn't it?
Cheers,
Frank
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For me, creating the little details can be tedious, but when I put them together, they are always more than the sum of the parts. It's a very gratifying feeling to see it put together.
Those rivets are really small to be made with a punch, but that punch set is a basic tool you will get some use out of.
These details you've created are excellent. Good job, Richie. Looking forward to seeing more progress, but work at your own pace - there's no deadline to meet.
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Very impressive work on the fairing and all of the other details Richie! One can see your improvement with each update! Perhaps someday I will give a scratch build a go!
RAGIII
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Wow, that aluminium fairing looks like the real thing!
That is pure fun to create such details, isn't it?
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks Frank, yes it's brilliant fun adding details. I can see why you push yourself to produce microscopic details in 1/48. I'm not yet a fully signed up mad man but I can I think I on that road for sure! ;)
For me, creating the little details can be tedious, but when I put them together, they are always more than the sum of the parts. It's a very gratifying feeling to see it put together.
Those rivets are really small to be made with a punch, but that punch set is a basic tool you will get some use out of.
These details you've created are excellent. Good job, Richie. Looking forward to seeing more progress, but work at your own pace - there's no deadline to meet.
Thanks Ken, you are a great inspiration and source of encouragement. I don't mind the painstaking process of detailing, I find I am much more relaxed in life as a result of focusing on them. Life's problems are quickly forgotten once I start fussing over a project. :)
Very impressive work on the fairing and all of the other details Richie! One can see your improvement with each update! Perhaps someday I will give a scratch build a go!
RAGIII
Thanks as ever Rick, I'm getting a little more confident with each task completed. Definitely have a go at scratch building, you've already carved struts and made many improvements to kits, you're half way there already. It's a lot of fun!
I suddenly remembered I had bought a tool for making tiny rivets and open hex nuts before I went on a break from modelling. The 0.25mm rivets are the perfect size but are difficult to distinguish from dust particles.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51149143636_57c4bd05b9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVSJoQ)Small Shop Nutter and riveter (https://flic.kr/p/2kVSJoQ) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
It works well but I don't think it is worth the money, a short length of 0.3mm brass rod in a pin vice, a piece of foil from a wine bottle and bicycle inner tube to put the foil on while you punch away would probably work just as well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51148464492_b265e29caf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVPfvs)20210430_204533 (https://flic.kr/p/2kVPfvs) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I did my best to line things up but these little rivets are hard to see! I am much more pleased with the results. I pick them up with a cocktail stick and dot them onto a blob of Klear, it didn't take as long as I thought but as Ken said, there are no deadlines to work to.
Cockpit details were added:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51151478700_559e10da3e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kW5Gwy)20210501_150434 (https://flic.kr/p/2kW5Gwy) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
There I had to stop to make seat belts. I decided to depart from the aircraft I am modelling which has modern belts to comply with safety regulations and make old fashioned lap belts.
I tried to scratch one from wine bottle foil, stretched sprue for the lip round the leather and some holes stabbed with a pin and sprayed with primer. The result was kind of OK but crude. I then had a bit of brain wave. The wine bottle foil takes embossing really well, I raided my stash for a WNW RFC lap belt and used it to emboss the foil. This was then cut glued to the lead foil from the Small Shop Nutter tool and cut out. I've never said this about my endeavours before but...TOTAL SUCCESS!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51150597138_56a6fefca5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kW1btd)20210501_145242 (https://flic.kr/p/2kW1btd) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I used E6000 glue to glue the foils together as it is flexible, hopefully this well allow me to bend the belts easily into shape once dry.
Muddling along still, thanks for watching
Richie
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My notify button had somehow flipped, so I missed a lot of this build until now.
I think you are doing a beautiful job Ritchie, and I've taken lot of notes since I will no doubt face the same challenges you encountered.
Great progress and really inspiring work!
Willem
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See what happens when you cut up a few bits and bobs and toss in glue and paint , excellent job on the details Richie She is really coming together within the pit :)
Alexis
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The belts look amazing Richie! The interior also looks great in place in the fuselage. I am very impressed!
RAGIII
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Super lap belt and much better than my previous efforts. I will have to try your method next time.
The cockpit framing and interior kook super - such a shame to cover it all up later...!
Stephen.
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My notify button had somehow flipped, so I missed a lot of this build until now.
I think you are doing a beautiful job Ritchie, and I've taken lot of notes since I will no doubt face the same challenges you encountered.
Great progress and really inspiring work!
Willem
Thanks Willem, this scratch building thing is certainly a bit of an adventure. Albeit, a very slow paced one. I'm sure we'll both get there in the end!
See what happens when you cut up a few bits and bobs and toss in glue and paint , excellent job on the details Richie She is really coming together within the pit :)
Alexis
Thanks Alexis, yes definitely just a few bits and bobs with a cut here and there and some glue and things start coming together. Especially with a bit of note taking and planning first! :)
The belts look amazing Richie! The interior also looks great in place in the fuselage. I am very impressed!
RAGIII
Thanks Rick, doing the belts this way made me feel like a naughty school boy who'd written the answers on his hands before a test. Such an easy work round!
Super lap belt and much better than my previous efforts. I will have to try your method next time.
The cockpit framing and interior kook super - such a shame to cover it all up later...!
Stephen.
Thanks Stephen, I definitely recommend my slightly cheaty way of making belts, it's so quick and easy. I'm slowly leaning towards the idea of a partial strip down. If I can do a good job of rigging the frame I may well do so.
Lots of time spent at the bench over the weekend and so little to show for it. I got the belts painted added to the wicker seat (Barracuda) and put into the cockpit frame. Getting the control wires threaded through the little box I mounted the seat on was a real pain and took a few hours.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51154300825_0d3660f925_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWkarT)20210502_152036 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWkarT) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickrc
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51153196401_c34b38e2e9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWev96)20210502_151953 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWev96) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have to add ties to the belts if I do a strip down, that promises to be so much fun!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50084599182_9b35be33e5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiNEq7)_V5A6860 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiNEq7) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The Scout cowling has 6 intricate little fasteners. I tried to make them on my cutter out of masking film but this did not go well. In the end I used part of an Eduard photo etch fret which was about the right width. I rounded the end with a file and measured, cut and repeated. Things then got a little silly, I decided to add the rivets. The third from the front sits on a larger disc. I spent all afternoon, squinting and fiddling around but they are pretty much in the right place. I need to get some super thin CA glue tomorrow to reinforce the Klear that is holding them in place or they may just get rubbed off when I position them on the cowling.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51154934897_56b89b43bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWopWa)Scout Cowling fasteners (https://flic.kr/p/2kWopWa) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
That's all for now, the wings are still getting worked on but they are still nowhere near ready for paint.
Thanks for reading.
Richie
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That really is super fine detail at the Bughunter level.
Stephen.
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That really is super fine detail at the Bughunter level.
Stephen.
Yep, you are approaching a level I dream of with detailing!
RAGIII
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That really is super fine detail at the Bughunter level.
Stephen.
Yep, you are approaching a level I dream of with detailing!
RAGIII
Thanks so much, there is however only one Bughunter!
.
Rick, I never intended this to get so involved but I have found that the bug (Frank reference intended :) ) just takes over! Unfortunately a couple of the fasteners got stuck to my cutting mat with Klear and pinged off when I lifted them with my scalpel blade. Some you win, some you lose!
More muddling on soon, I've been playing with aluminium for the metal panels but have much fettling to do before I have anything to show.
Richie
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I don't know how many times I lose small details and have to remake them . and as I get older ...or in my case younger ;) I seem to be doing this more .
When making parts on some of them I will make 3 of them and choose the best one and scrap the others . Smaller details such as cowl fasteners I make a few extras in case they going PIN out of the tweezers into the great blue yonder with colourful language tossed in .
Your details are looking fantastic Richie and it's great to read you are really enjoying yourself with this project .
Alexis
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If you make a series of small parts do more then needed, so if the carpet monster eat some you don't need to do the same again (which is then also harder to get identical ones with another run).
Cheers,
Frank
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Very good advice Frank and Alexis, I haven't had any time for a few days but tomorrow I will make a new batch of fasteners and get them attached to the cowling before I can lose them. Hoping to get the cockpit coming and metal panels added to the nose. It will be difficult but I have a plan. ;)
Richie
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It will be difficult but I have a plan. ;)
Richie
We all have those Richie: the question is: "Will it work?"!
Stephen.
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It will be difficult but I have a plan. ;)
Richie
We all have those Richie: the question is: "Will it work?"!
Stephen.
Haha, part of the plan is to have a good drop of rum after so I won't mind either way. ;)
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Little bit of progress, I did a bit of miniature panel beating to make the side panels behind the engine. This thin aluminium sheet is quite easy to work with once annealed. The front was shaped by simply bending it round the cowling, the rear part was bent round the handle of my Xuron shears. The oil tank cover just behind the engine cover is lead foil, I ran my rivet wheel along it to suggest the less prominent rivets seen here. The oil tank cover is a bit lumpy but it is on the actual aircraft too so I'll settle for it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51158469778_d0e2458a9f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWGwJo)20210504_213524 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWGwJo) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The side panels have hatches, it looks as though they are made by cutting a section out of the panel and reinforcing by riveting a lip round the boundaries.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49864141697_5169009b31_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjL5Z)20191116_104554 (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjL5Z) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I decided the easiest way to do this was to use my cutter and make them out of masking film. Sadly it means I will have to paint over the aluminium panels but my attempts to make the hatches out of aluminium tape failed miserably.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51165784276_f2fca7b1fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kXm25q)20210508_164949 (https://flic.kr/p/2kXm25q) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Lots of little rivets later;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51166622129_d4b2351717_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kXqj9a)20210508_193001 (https://flic.kr/p/2kXqj9a) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I'm pretty pleased with the results, I have to add the hinges and catches but that can wait for another day.
I added the cockpit coaming and cowling fasteners after making a fresh batch but need to do a bit of refining before they are fit for consumption.
Many thanks for reading
Richie
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Richie, you infected me somehow!
I just browsed through your wonderful documentation gallery of the Bristol Scout, and a decided to follow you and build this bird this year.
But sorry, not from scratch, I have the Scout C kit of the not more existing company Gavia in my stash, of course in my 1/48 scale.
Cheers,
Frank
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Richie, you infected me somehow!
I just browsed through your wonderful documentation gallery of the Bristol Scout, and a decided to follow you and build this bird this year.
But sorry, not from scratch, I have the Scout C kit of the not more existing company Gavia in my stash, of course in my 1/48 scale.
Cheers,
Frank
Excellent news Frank!!!! I'm very excited to see a Bughunter special on this beautiful little aircraft. The museum will reopen next week, if there any things you would like a better view of just ask.
Exciting news!
Richie
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There is a company doing wooden props, wonderful art: https://www.hercprops.com/
They made alse one for a Bristol Scout:
(https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5f315ecb81acd33e6278ffa6/1597331919850-CRBN544YGT6GQM12IT78/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kIl3HqNBlRCe0BSpzaiXrcMUqsxRUqqbr1mOJYKfIPR7LoDQ9mXPOjoJoqy81S2I8N_N4V1vUb5AoIIIbLZhVYy7Mythp_T-mtop-vrsUOmeInPi9iDjx9w8K4ZfjXt2dhsfnNmzcGfmOR2zmrwTt4p6BZ7Ptl-cJic6F2IqD82vOpYghpI-Ha_TwZsqqmJXng/L1080798.jpg)
More pictures of that prop here: https://www.hercprops.com/reproduction-propellers
Cheers,
Frank
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Perfect, thanks Frank. Been hunting for a good profile of it.
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Really nice job on building up the side panels so far Richie , will look super once the other bits are added .
Frank , The Gavia kit is a nice kit , started it and ended up being a shelf queen do to a sharpie mishap ::)
Looking forward on the next up date , how are the wings coming ?
Alexis
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Thanks Alexis, the wings aren't in great shape still. I'm fighting against the idea of starting them again. I've got a lot better at making things since I made them last year but I think I should press on and treat this as a learning project. I have exciting plans for my next build and can't start until this is over the finish line. ;)
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Your skills are becoming Top Notch! The side panels look Outstanding!
RAGIII
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Richie, after digging into the Bristol Scout topic I'm more lost then before ...
With many different engine types and cowlings used that is not easy.
Which marking you want to build? Exactly that museums aircraft?
According to WD44 a Scout D was build by Leo Opdycke from 1977-83 in the USA, flown 1983. Later acquired by the Royal Air Force Museum. 1994 it was then in the hands of the Bristol Aero Collection. Is this that machine?
And one remark for the markings:
The museums Scout has a Union Jack on the side, but cockade on the wings.
All the pictures I checked (but often the wings cannot be seen) with Union Jack on the fuselage then only a big red ring, not blue middle dot.
And with the introduction of the middle dot on the wing cockades then the Scouts has also cockades on the fuselage sides.
That is also reflected by the markings of the Gavia kits.
So either that's artistic licence on the plane in the museum or I don't know the references.
Just some thoughts ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Your skills are becoming Top Notch! The side panels look Outstanding!
RAGIII
Thanks Rick, that means a lot to me. Do you remember trying to guide me through the WNW Camel? Mine still sits on the shelf half built but yours was beautifully finished many builds ago.
Richie
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I agree completely about those side panels, they're great
Have a go at carving a prop before you buy one, I use files and sandpaper. You'll be surprised how satisfying it is to do
Richard
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Hi Frank, yes it's a confusing subject! I'm pretty much just going to build the aircraft from the museum. Even that has changed a lot in its short life. The cowling was originally much simpler (that's what I'm copying) but they enlarged the cut out underneath to help with an overheating problem. It also just had cockades on the fuselage at first. I'm still not sure what to do there. The museum aircraft looks great with the Union Jacks but they look like vinyl decals. I have a datafile with plenty of colour schemes and information. I think it is sold out now though.
Richie
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I agree completely about those side panels, they're great
Have a go at carving a prop before you buy one, I use files and sandpaper. You'll be surprised how satisfying it is to do
Richard
Thanks Richard, I had a lot of fun doing the microscopic modelling.Today I added the little brass hinges from photoetch fret and 0.2mm nickel rod. The latches were made from tiny slivers of brass from Albion Alloys connecto bits. I tried to replicate the different tones on the cowling by mottling it with black and white before spraying lightly with very dilute flat aluminium but that didn't work out at all. I shall try later with washes and oils. It seems a life time ago that I started this build with just a hot pepper sauce bottle top that would become the cowling! :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51170370773_57fa9139b1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kXKwtX)Latches and hinges added to hatches. Cowling finished. (https://flic.kr/p/2kXKwtX) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
No worries about prop carving. The prop Frank linked is a full size one that now sits on the actual aircraft I am making. I made loads of props last Summer during the first lockdown when the weather was so nice so that step doesn't scare me. The wings however continue to be a real nightmare! I shall make a concerted effort this week to get them presentable.
Richie
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Beautiful job on the panels Richie and the cowl fasteners .
I'm sure your wings will turn out just fine , take your time and you will find what works for you ! ;)
Alexis
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Richie you are adding some simply superb and very tiny detail to this model. I am not sure what you mean by this being a learning model - you are in the process of making a real winner here.
I am looking forward to your next project too - if this one is anything to go by the next one will be a real show stopper.
Stephen.
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Hi Richie,
The cowling was originally much simpler (that's what I'm copying) but they enlarged the cut out underneath to help with an overheating problem.
The actual big cut out looks like a Scout D, but the cowling of that one was bigger, had a bigger opening on the front and a "bubble" on right side.
Just to confuse the model builders ;)
It also just had cockades on the fuselage at first. I'm still not sure what to do there. The museum aircraft looks great with the Union Jacks but they look like vinyl decals.
On the blog the builder commented/answered questions on this:
Quotation form https://bristolscout.wordpress.com/
"The French cockade was used as a stopgap measure after they discovered that the Union Flag was easily confused with the German cross at a distance. officially the colours were reversed in October 1915 to become the British roundel, but the RNAS generally, and aircraft remote from the Western Front took longer to switch over. Sometimes the RNAS didn’t have the blue spot in the middle, and of the 5 or so Bristol scouts in No. 2 Wing at the time, each one had a different marking."
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful job on the panels Richie and the cowl fasteners .
I'm sure your wings will turn out just fine , take your time and you will find what works for you ! ;)
Alexis
Thanks Alexis, I'll get there in the end with the wings. I actually took the skins off this evening, there was no saving the situation! I'm going to have a rethink and try another method. I actually feel much happier about it now.
Richie you are adding some simply superb and very tiny detail to this model. I am not sure what you mean by this being a learning model - you are in the process of making a real winner here.
I am looking forward to your next project too - if this one is anything to go by the next one will be a real show stopper.
Stephen.
Thanks so much Stephen, you have been a great source of inspiration and encouragement in my scratch building endeavours. Your kind words mean a lot to me. I'm excited about the next project but can't decide if it will have 2 or 3 wings. It will be from the Sopwith Aviation Aviation Company and possibly uncovered.
Frank you gem! That's really great information, you bring the same thoroughness to your research that you do to your building. Can't wait to see your Scout!
No real progress to report today, other than ripping the wing skins I spent a lot of time on the little rounded brass hatch on the cowling. There have been many different attempts, a few curses muttered but nothing to show for my efforts yet. It's been a frustrating day but one I will learn from!
Richie
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Your skills are becoming Top Notch! The side panels look Outstanding!
RAGIII
Thanks Rick, that means a lot to me. Do you remember trying to guide me through the WNW Camel? Mine still sits on the shelf half built but yours was beautifully finished many builds ago.
Richie
The Student becomes the Master 8)
RAGIII
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No master here Rick, I'm still very much the student, as you would know if you saw the state of my wings today! 😉
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Hello, Richie
I cannot believe ths is your first scratch build - your work so far is impressive.
Great work on the panels
Regards
Dave
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Hi Dave, thanks so much. In some ways I'm a bit of a veteran because it takes me so many attempts to make anything! I don't mind ruined attempts though, the raw materials are cheap or often just bit scavenged from the left overs box. Ruining a Wingnut Wings kit, which I've done twice, is another matter altogether! :)
Richie
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What method are you using for constructing the wings ?
Alexis
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What method are you using for constructing the wings ?
Alexis
Hi Alexis, I was having a go at Harry Woodman's balsa core and embossed skin method. I ran into trouble with the compound curves of the wing tips. I think I've found a way round it now. I'm going to start again, my brother is going to lend me some Japanese carving files ( not sure quite what they are) to shape the cores. He says this will make it much easier. Won't get to see him for a week or so though so will start on the undercarriage legs or turtle deck over the weekend.
Richie
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Hi Ritchie
I'm glad to see you are progressing through this project very well, with apparently minimal collateral damage.
The wing tips using Woodman's technique can be a tricky task, as Richard can attest. I, however, avoid the whole debacle and make the tips from layers of styrene and/or putty, and attach the tip to the wing. Maybe this can be plan 'B' for you. ;)
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Hi Ritchie
I'm glad to see you are progressing through this project very well, with apparently minimal collateral damage.
The wing tips using Woodman's technique can be a tricky task, as Richard can attest. I, however, avoid the whole debacle and make the tips from layers of styrene and/or putty, and attach the tip to the wing. Maybe this can be plan 'B' for you. ;)
Ken, THANK YOU!!!! That is an excellent suggestion. I was toying with the idea of using separate top and bottom skins, cutting the tip section off and applying them separately. If this goes pear shaped I will go to your suggested plan B. Plan C is to completely smooth out the surface with talc and dope and just apply stretched sprue and tape strips directly onto the surface with a bit of Mr Surfacer primer to hide my tracks. Plan B sounds so utterly sensible it may become Plan A. :)
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Hey Richie ,
The Harry Woodmans is a excellent way on making the wings and I agree with Ken . Wing tips can be very tricky and frustrating on getting the right . Ken's suggestions on building up the tips out off sheet stock is a quick and easy way and if one tip gets messed up , it's easy to fix , cut tip and replace .
Another way of doing the wings is a hot water method . Two half sections of a pipe that has the right camber for the wings . PVC pipe can also be used . Boil some water in a large enough pot which will submerge the whole wing . Hold the wing in the boiling water for a minute . Remove and place the part over the top of pipe . Take the second pipe and put that over top of the other pipe and press down and hold until the part has cooled and set the memory to the plastic . Now you have the camber set and sand the rest of the wing to shape , add ripping and you are on your way ... Have a look at some of Des's builds . He made his wings in this manner .
Making the wings is the biggest learning curve , but once you find a method which works for you ...it will be like a forehead slap ....I still have bruising form 20 years ago ! ;)
Alexis
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Haha, thanks Alexis, I hope I don't give myself a head injury. It will be a big moment when I finally get the hang of it!
I may have come up with a cunning plan to scratch wheels using my cutting machine. If it doesn't work I'm just going to salvage the ones from my Eindekker that got shot down by Mrs W with a dusting cloth. :)
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I've taken to just telling the wingtips to get on with it and stick. I'm considering trying double sided tape instead of solvent
In theory, the styrene won't bend into a double curvature, by using small wooden clothes pegs it usually gives up
Another solution would be to cut wedges out of the styrene - I haven't tried that yet
Richard
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I've taken to just telling the wingtips to get on with it and stick. I'm considering trying double sided tape instead of solvent
In theory, the styrene won't bend into a double curvature, by using small wooden clothes pegs it usually gives up
Another solution would be to cut wedges out of the styrene - I haven't tried that yet
Richard
Thanks Richard, yes I'm going for double sided tape but will cover the whole surface like Naimbs does in his builds. clothes pegs may well be involved!
In the meantime the cockpit coaming was a worry, it needed to be made in two pieces because there is a big drop from front to back in the aperture. In the end it proved to be no big problem after bending the styrene sheet round a pen top with boiling water. The leather padding was made with miiliput, I may need to sand it down when dry. Since taking the photo I masked round it with tape trying to leave a uniform gap and am in the process of adding layers of primer to try to create the effect of the layer of leather surround that is stitched to the structure. I don't plan on trying to simulate the stitching.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51176034717_b0d2fd4d43_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYfyba)Cockpit coaming and milliput leather padding added. (https://flic.kr/p/2kYfyba) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
There's not much more I can do to the fuselage until the wings are made, I haven't thought about how I am going to make the undercarriage legs yet. The delay will give me breathing space to come up with a plan.
Many thanks everybody for all the encouragement and tips, you have no idea how much you have helped me get this far!
Richie
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Hmm, seems like I didn't explain myself very well.
I also cover the whole balsa core with double sided tape, it works well. Then I use solvent to joint the upper and lower surface along the trailing edge. Finally, I bond the wingtips, also with solvent
I'm considering substituting double sided tape to join the upper and lower surfaces at the wingtips. It would avoid getting too much solvent into the joint causing shrinkage, and it would be quick, so the surfaces don't get a chance to move around
I'm going to try that on my next wing
Incidentally, I always split the leading edge of the wing covering at the wingtips with a scalpel. It gives somewhere for the excess material in the lower surface somewhere to go.
Richard
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That sounds like a good plan. I worry about the glue melting the styrene as it did on the tail feathers many moons ago.
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Keep working on the wings Richie. Personally I do not like Woodmann's method of making wings but I know that many others do and they make excellent models. I would go for the laminated plastic and file/sand method - quicker and easier and avoids the double sided tape and glue problems. Alternatively I would carve a wing from wood and use filler as you have suggested. However I am confident that you will find a solution that best suits you and produce first class wings in the process.
Stephen.
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Can I suggest - using bamboo chopsticks for making the struts ? Splits easily , sands well has a ture to scale wood grain , takes paint or stain very well and is verrrry strong !
Alexis
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Thanks Stephen, I shall get there in the end!
Yes Alexis, you may certainly suggest bamboo chopsticks, I have a little stash of them so that's a perfect suggestion!
Richie
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Just a very quick thought, I may have drunkenly stumbled on a method to create the wing surface contours. I had a very quick little play att compressing the shape directly into the balsa. I didn't measure anything out so consider this a rough sketch. I tried rolling the shape in with a cocktail stick, a paintbrush handle and finally a brass rod. I think this has some promise! On the underside of wings I have noticed that the ribs are actually the lowest point as the canvas if anything gently sags between them. A gentle pressure at the rib points would be all that is needed to create this. I had a few beers tonight so this is all very crude, with a bit of refinement I think it will work in combination with tape strips and a few coats of primer.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51179886919_57ed504b99_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYAiir)Wing experiment (https://flic.kr/p/2kYAiir) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Am I onto something or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I'm off to the Shuttleworth Collection on Monday anybody got any picture wants?
Richie
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Sneaky! It's a crazy plan, and it just might work!
I'm green with envy about your trip to Shuttleworth though
Richard
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Am I onto something or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I really think you are on to something Richie! I have some tailplanes to do, and I will definitely give this a try!
Any ideas on how to finish the the surface?
Willem
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Sneaky! It's a crazy plan, and it just might work!
I'm green with envy about your trip to Shuttleworth though
Richard
I'm quite excited about this method, going to experiment more with my ruined cores.
Shuttleworth reopens from Monday, I have pre booked my slot. My very elderly parents live close by so I can visit them too. Got to make the most of the chance while it's there!
Am I onto something or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I really think you are on to something Richie! I have some tailplanes to do, and I will definitely give this a try!
Any ideas on how to finish the the surface?
Willem
I had a bit of success with the original cores by coating in liquid poly cement followed by Vallejo plastic to fill the grain and then Tamiya rattle can primer. More experimentation is needed but I am hopeful/foolishly optimistic!
Richie
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Keep barking at that tree Richie ;)
Alexis
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I had a bit of success with the original cores by coating in liquid poly cement followed by Vallejo plastic to fill the grain and then Tamiya rattle can primer. More experimentation is needed but I am hopeful/foolishly optimistic!
Richie
If it is of any help - I no longer do any of this. I apply the double sided tape straight onto the balsa core
Richard
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Keep barking at that tree Richie ;)
Alexis
Still barking....possibly barking mad. Have been experimenting a bit today. Might have a rough result to show you later. :)
HI Richard, any advice always helps I'll try that too. I'm having a play with my scrapped cores. One I will try to skin Woodman style but am going to skin the wing tip separately.
Richie
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I'd also try working dents into an already skinned wing
Richard
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I'd also try working dents into an already skinned wing
Richard
YES!!!!! That is a great idea! 👍
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Am I onto something or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I really think you are on to something Richie! I have some tailplanes to do, and I will definitely give this a try!
Willem, I'd hold fire for now. I had a little play yesterday afternoon and the result is pretty horrible. In fairness it was only a rough experiment and I got caught in a sudden cloudburst whilst spraying on primer outside which ruined the finish but I think it is, for me at least, a very difficult method to control. The leading edge especially is challenging as the rib effect and tape need to be feathered there, I tried infusing the tape with thin CA glue to enable this but just made a mess. It's probably doable but I think Harry Woodman's method would be far less problematic.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51180838528_43cfeabe7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYFbbu)Experiments (https://flic.kr/p/2kYFbbu) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
A very quick experiment at making indentations through a skin was also tried. I only had 10 thou sheet, I think it would work better with 5 thou. No measurements or care were taken here, I just wanted to see if I could imprint contours.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51179933172_6d952d2f59_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYAx3U)Experiments (https://flic.kr/p/2kYAx3U) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I can't help but wonder if creating the rib tape with Mr fine surfacer after masking round the areas might work. I have a bit of a wait for supplies to arrive and two old duff wing cores to play with so might try another experiment when I get time.
Richie
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This place is a real buzz! It's hard to keep up!
I will join with this bird, as promised :)
Cheers,
Frank
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I had a bit of time at the bench yesterday and made some new balsa cores, at their thickest point these are 2.5mm and very delicate. I got a cheap razor plane from Amazon which made short work of removing excess balsa and the Japanese half round carving file I borrowed made even shorter work of carving the aerofoil curve into the undersides. I was so impressed with I might buy one. I reinforced these balsa wafers with a layer of extra thin CA glue.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51190300123_4fb38bd929_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZvEMr)Wings (https://flic.kr/p/2kZvEMr) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Whisper it quietly, I may have successfully skinned the top wing this evening. It's a long way from perfect but certainly good enough for me! Will do the bottom wings if I have time tomorrow and if I'm successful things can finally start to move on with skinning the fuselage and putting some colour in the old girl's cheeks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51191151235_26a03b307f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZA2MM)Wings (https://flic.kr/p/2kZA2MM) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I sat a few bits together for a test fit, they actually do fit quite well but like annoying children wouldn't still for a photograph. It's a bit round the edges of the cockpit covering but there will be a half round strip to represent the cane reinforcement that goes along the bottom edge. I'm contemplating adding stitches to the leather padding but have done enough of the squinty eye strain stuff recently.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177892822_a07de15ffe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYq5ws)Dry fit (https://flic.kr/p/2kYq5ws) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thanks for reading
Richie
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That's looking good Richie
I've always thinned the balsa cores down with coarse sandpaper wrapped around a block, I'm interested to hear you can plane it - I was expecting the grain to tear out. Learning all the time!
Richard
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Agree with Richard , that does look really good Richie :)
Alexis
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You're coming along quite well with this, Ritchie.
Scratchbuilding certainly offers one the opportunity to be creative.
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Thanks you wonderful people, I'm sure wing making gets easier with practice. The wing I completed is a bit rough in places so I will cut it down and use it for the lower wings. No point in starting again or this will never end!
Richard, the razor plane is a terrific, cheap tool. So long as you just take very thin shavings there is no tearing.
Richie
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Am I onto something or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I really think you are on to something Richie! I have some tailplanes to do, and I will definitely give this a try!
Any ideas on how to finish the the surface?
Willem
Sorry but I have been away for a couple of days and missed all of this recent action! Excellent and novel ideas here - and it looks as though you may have a complete set of wings shortly. I will try to follow more closely in future.
In answer to Willem's question, a simple, cheap and very effective wood grain filler is a talcum powder and dope mixture. I prefer it to CA because it is easier to apply and avoids the problems associated with the CA. In addition the thinners no longer smell like they used to do. I have described it in my Dornier Rs II flying boat build log on this site. It requires 2 - 3 coats but sets very hard and when sanded gives a mirror finish. I still use it to fill wood grain on any parts of model that is going to be painted. An old idea but a good one.
Stephen.
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Your latest wing looks great to me Richie! The cowl panels look great placed in position.
RAGIII
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Stephen, thank you for pointing me to your build log of the Dornier Rs II flying boat. I will try this method too. I find all these techniques interesting and fun to try out.
Willem
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Well it's been a bit of a frustrating week, I somehow made a complete and utter pig's ear of skinning the next wing core and when I looked again at the wing I had skinned it was far too thick. More Hawker Hurricane than Bristol Scout. I tried to remedy the situation but decided starting again was a better option.
Although annoying it wasn't too off putting as it gave me the chance to try making new cores out of bass wood sheet. I found this a lot easier than using balsa and Stephen's suggestion of talc and dope to provide a smooth surface worked a treat.
This time skinning went well, I even just about got the wing tips to cooperate although they are slathered in putty at the moment.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51203256875_a920ee44c2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m1E5nH)wings at the 4th attempt (https://flic.kr/p/2m1E5nH) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Once I have the tips sorted out I can finally get the airbrush out and do some painting again.
There is a much more pressing job to do first;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51201475242_ae777d9e6a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m1uWKU)Bench clearing time. (https://flic.kr/p/2m1uWKU) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Clearing up this mess and getting rid of all the dust is going to be a lengthy process!
Thanks for reading, with a bit of luck and a good tail wind I may have some colours to show next time.
Richie
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Clearing up this mess and getting rid of all the dust is going to be a lengthy process!
[/quote]
I envy the huge work area you have cleared on your desk (relative to mine). :-[
Gene K
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Clearing up this mess and getting rid of all the dust is going to be a lengthy process!
I envy the huge work area you have cleared on your desk (relative to mine). :-[
Gene K
[/quote]
Haha, I had a feeling I may well not be the messiest worker! ;)
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decided starting again was a better option.
Another valuable lesson learned ;D
Richard
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decided starting again was a better option.
Another valuable lesson learned ;D
Richard
Yep, I much longer trying to salvage rubbish wings than I did making new ones!
Richie
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There's a desk in there somewhere ....I'll find it ! Just give me a few minutes .....I did think I spotted Waldo ;)
Alexis
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:o :-X
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Your desk looks a bit like mine....
Glad to see that you managed to get your wings into shape eventually. Trial and error, (with rather more of the latter than the former to start with), are part and parcel of scratch building. But it is all worthwhile in the longer run as we move up the learning curve. Basswood is much better than balsa for strength IMHO - even though it is a bit more expensive.
Stephen.
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Well it has been a very busy week so what little bench time I had was largely given to the task of clearing up the mess and putting things away.
I have found time for a few experiments, I wanted to give the impression of 3d rib tapes. I have some Archer rib tape decals but I don't really like them much. They seem to thick and too wide, I have had bad masking experiences where I left the masks on too long and ended up with steps between colours so I thought this would be a good way to go. Lots of masking and bit of airbrushing later;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51212460458_49388aa47d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2tfhb)Rib tapes from paint (https://flic.kr/p/2m2tfhb) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I managed to miss a few somehow but have since corrected the mistakes, a quick rub with micro mesh keeps the effect more subtle.
One stage I have been very much looking forward to but unsure how to do was trying to create the translucency of the lower wing surfaces. Thankfully I have several failed wing making attempts to experiment with. I drew the internal wing structure with a pencil in the same way I read Des used to on his builds. I drew the cockade (with the colours the wrong way round!) with watercolour pencils and just rubbed my finger over it to create a softer edge. Around the edges of the framework I drew lighty with a pale ochre pencil and then airbrushed a light coat of MRP bleached CDL. Between the ribs and spars I then sprayed MRP white and finally a very light of thinned white was airbrushed to bring it all together.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51213005599_97504b3f41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2w3ka)Strut making and translucent painting experiment (https://flic.kr/p/2m2w3ka) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
With a bit of tweaking I think this method will work well, I still have a few reject wings to play with and I am definitely not in a hurry.
You may have noticed a single strut in the picture, I tried to make them from bamboo skewers but struggled to make several identical and had problems with drilling a hole to insert a brass pin. In the end I opted to have a 0.5mm brass rod run the length of a strut made from 3 layers of 0.5mm styrene sheet. The middle layer is cut down the middle to make room for the brass rod. The result seem easily stiff enough to use as a strut and if I use my cutter to produce the styrene layers I should end up with identical struts. This technique should work for making the undercarriage legs too.
Many thanks for reading, if you have any opinion on whether to cut out the ailerons and wing segments before painting I would appreciate any advice offered, I'm a little puzzled about which is the best order.
Richie
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Hi Richie ,
Your wings look really nice under a coat of paint and your method that you came up with for other builds seems to be working for you , which is the way to go . Find what works for you ! One of the true pleasures of this hobby .
As to removing the flight controls now could cause sets back if errors are made only creating more work or another restart . Wings are already under way with the painting so maybe just scribing in would be an option . When I making wings I do this kind of work before the painting stage . If I over sanded or made cut errors it is easier to fix those mishaps now then after painting .
Choice is yours of course Richie on what you are comfortable with .
Alexis
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Many thanks Alexis, I was thinking maybe just scribing might be sensible. I really don't want to have to make a 5th set of wings!
Richie
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No trouble at all Richie ;)
Maybe this will be inspiring for you .....you can never have enough detail ;)
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10109.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10109.0)
This was two and half months spent just in the wheel bay ;)
Alexis
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No trouble at all Richie ;)
Maybe this will be inspiring for you .....you can never have enough detail ;)
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10109.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10109.0)
This was two and half months spent just in the wheel bay ;)
Alexis
Wowsers!!!!!! Alexis, that is incredible and I am indeed very inspired! There are WW2 that I have such affection for that I would be happy to go to such lengths for. The P51d is one, the other 2 are rather predictably for a Brit the Spitfire and Hurricane.
I'm developing a real love for WW1 aircraft, the Tripehound is my favourite followed closely by the Pup, Bristol Scout. Until a year or so ago I'd never built a model from the great war period.
Richie
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I agree with Alexis. I would scribe the ailerons on the wings - unless you really want to show them slightly offset. I can see a 6th set of wings being made if you do try to cut the ailerons out at this stage.
The underside looks very convincing. Remember that if the tops of the wings are PC10 then you will not get the see through wing structure or roundels.
Stephen.
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Thanks Stephen, yes scribed ailerons it will be.
The model will be all clear doped linen, the finish I get on the lower wing surfaces will make or break the model. I'm getting quite excited about it but will take my time and must layer the details in the correct order.
Richie
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Richie , before I got into WW1 aircraft it was WW2 subject and I did a lot of super detailing and working with resin and resin kits . This was in 72 and 48 scale . I didn't build in the larger scale and this Mustang was one of my first detailing projects in this scale . I had to re-make a lot of parts and spent a lot of time studying photo's of the real deal . Something which is hard to do with most WW1 kites . I don't know if you recall my Hawker Typhoon build , it's in the off topic section , have a peek at that one if you like , the pit is 95 % scratched and highly detailed .
When I started building and detailing WW1 subjects it started off with a few parts here and there and it just exploded from there with cockpits being scratched with as much details as I could pack in there . Well that wasn't good enough so i did a few conversions and started making my own wings to replace overly think kit parts . This caused the bug to bit within even more and I did my first full Scratch build ( Fe-8 ) . Which lead me to Vac-forum kits and those are an excellent way to build on ones skills .
But if you want to detail a hurrie ...I say go for ! Fly Model's has a nice 32 scale kit ;) I found what really help me was being versitie in types of kits I built , even though the skills are in par , it is different on the other hand in it teaches you on working with different shapes other then just box structures .
I'm really glad that you are enjoying this project Richie and I must say it has been a joy for me following a long ...it brings back a lot of happy memories when I started .
Alexis
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Loved reading that post Alexis, learning something of people's modelling history is always fascinating. I will check out your Tiffie build. I very seldom make it to the off topic build page.
I've spent a very pleasant couple of hours at the bench this morning making struts. With no brass tube of the right size to squish I used my Cricut cutter to make the strut shapes from 0.5mm card, a 0.5mm brass rod was the CAd in place after drawing a pencil line to mark the correct position. Each was then glued to another piece of 0.5mm card using the rod as a guide. The first piece of strut shaped styrene then acts as a cutting guide.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51217512446_e924eaee80_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2V94q)Struts (https://flic.kr/p/2m2V94q) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The sandwich is then completed by gluing another pre cut piece of styrene on top. This leaves a small groove at the top which is easily filled. I used deluxe perfect plastic putty followed by a quick wipe with ultra thin CA glue and a dab of talc.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51216794487_149d16ff9f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2RsCP)Struts (https://flic.kr/p/2m2RsCP) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
A bit of scrapery and sanding and we have wing and cabane struts with a brass pin for mounting. All perfectly symmetrical, except somehow these aren't quite. :(
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51218579260_7596d7a114_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m31BbL)Struts (https://flic.kr/p/2m31BbL) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
A feature that I was going to ignore was the fringe at the bottom of oil tank due to the difficulties of making it. You can see it here above the access hatch on the side panel.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50083571913_37d5cab14a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiHp3z)Bristol Scout 1264 (https://flic.kr/p/2jiHp3z) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I didn't think my Cricut would be able to cut such a precise shape and thought that even it could it would be a complete pain in the backside to draw the shape in the supplied software. In the end it was simplicity itself, a quick roll along with a rivet wheel and it was done. Definitely close enough.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51216795597_3b79f9d7a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2RsXX)Oil tank fringe (https://flic.kr/p/2m2RsXX) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Although looking at the photo I seem to have lost my rivets and will have to do this side again.
Many thanks for reading, the sun's out, I'm feeling cheery and it's time for a sarnie and maybe a celebratory beer.
Richie
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Enjoy that beer Richie , you earned it ;)
Alexis
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Wings, struts and added detail are amazing Richie! You are really making progress!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick and Alexis, you keep me going back to the bench with your kind words, sage advice and encouragement.
Despite many hours in the cave since the last update I have very little to show you. Most of the time has been spent pondering how to mount the wings and get the correct dihedral. What I have decided is to have slightly oversized tubes in the fuselage and pins in the wings, this will provide enough wiggle room to position the wings as required before gluing. I think this is the best way as the frame is too fragile to allow bending of spars.
I also added individual rivets to the stepped fringe of the fuel tank, completed what will be visible of the internal bracing wires and painted the struts. A little plumbing was also added to the pulsator. Not a lot to show for all the bench time but most of the time has been spent staring into space and wondering how to get things done. Now I have sorted out how to mount the lower wings I can skin the fuselage.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51225515420_6aaed38e53_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Ca4J)20210604_145823 (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Ca4J) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51225285443_fecb6bb1af_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3AYGB)Struts (https://flic.kr/p/2m3AYGB) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thanks for reading, have a good weekend everybody.
Richie
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The wing dihedral problem.
I use tubes in the fuselage and pins in the wings. The tubes have a bore of 0.8mm and the pins are 0.8mm brass giving some rigidity until the rigging is in place
All the dihedral and sweep back comes from bending the bit of pin that sticks out of the wing. I do this by laying the wing on the drawing, then bending the pin to the correct angle, first in plan then in the front elevation
I wouldn't go for oversize tubes, you won't have anything to positively locate the wings. Bending the wire is much easier!
I've just done this with the lower wings of the Nie 17bis - there will be pictures at some point...
Richard
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Thanks Richard, that sounds sensible!
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Thanks Richard, that sounds sensible!
Easy too!
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The painted struts look great Richie! I am awed by your progress on this one!
RAGIII
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Thanks Richard, that sounds sensible!
Easy too!
I'm finding the best solutions always are!The painted struts look great Richie! I am awed by your progress on this one!
RAGIII
Very kind as always Rick, many thanks. I'm getting there bit by bit but oh boy, what a struggle it is. A very absorbing one but wow, what a struggle! :)
Richie
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Your a lean mean scratchbuilding machine Richie !
The struts you made turn out super as well as the added detail on the front end of business . I also do it the same way Richard does , never fails ;)
Alexis
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Thanks Alexis, if both you and Richard do it that way it has to be the right method. I already fitted the tubes but thanks to Albion Alloy slide fit tubes I can easily work round it. I spent days pondering various way out methods, the answer is so beautifully simple. Wish I'd just asked but the toughest lessons are the best learned! :)
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Those struts look awesome Richie!
Willem
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Thanks Alexis, if both you and Richard do it that way it has to be the right method. I already fitted the tubes but thanks to Albion Alloy slide fit tubes I can easily work round it. I spent days pondering various way out methods, the answer is so beautifully simple. Wish I'd just asked but the toughest lessons are the best learned! :)
In that case I would do the pin bending trick, then fit short bits of tube onto them to make large locating pegs.
Sleeve the wing pin up rather than make the tube smaller. You should have a really good location that way
Richard
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More top advice, thanks a lot Richard!
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More top advice, thanks a lot Richard!
yep - it's a good one that. I may adopt it myself!
Richard
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Catching up Richie: you are making excellent progress with this and producing a stunning model as a result. Staring into space may seem to be wasting time but in my experience it is a necessary process as good ideas rarely jump out from nowhere: they have to be squeezed from the mind. Simple solutions are always preferable but are not obvious very often - hence the time needed to stare into space.
The struts are first class as is the jagged edge on the fuel tank. Remember that you can see very flaw in the model, (they will be shouting at you), but they will be barely noticed by anyone else.....
Keep this up - it is a great learning experience for all of us - so many good ideas here, and a very good learning ground for your strip-down project.
Stephen.
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Your wings look great. It's hard to believe this is your first scratchbuild. You're really climbing a steep learning curve quickly here.
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Those struts look awesome Richie!
Willem
Many thanks Willem, sorry I missed this post before. How's your build going? Loved your last few updates!Your wings look great. It's hard to believe this is your first scratchbuild. You're really climbing a steep learning curve quickly here.
Many thanks Ken, I'm very grateful for the compliment. This was my 4th or 5th attempt at the wings. At least I ended up with sets to experiment with painting techniques. I'm determined to scramble my way up that learning curve!
Stephen,a very big thank you for all the advice and encouragement you have given. Yes the Many blemishes are shouting at me in a big chorus but to be honest I've already achieved far more than I thought I would at the start of this project.
There has been a lot more staring into space this week and very little progress. I hope to make a little update with photos tomorrow if time allows.
Best wishes all
Richie
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Form staring into space comes inspiration ;)
Alexis
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Thanks Alexis, mostly I find staring into space gets me out of doing household chores but sometimes an idea pops into my head! :)
Well here's where I'm at at the moment, only a tiny little step forward but as I will not get any bench time for a week I thought I'd add an update to let you know I haven't thrown the towel in.
The task of masking and adding rib tape textures with paint was very time consuming but is now done. It's a bit rough in places but I got better at it as I went along, the effect is very low key as I wanted so all the errors will hopefully be the visual equivalent of gentle background noise.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51238202216_33dcc1a27a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m4KbpA)20210610_162459 (https://flic.kr/p/2m4KbpA) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The undercarriage legs at the bottom of the picture were made using the same method as the wing struts, they are wrapped with 1mm Tamiya tape. These will need a bit of tidying up to tone down and neaten the binding a little but they do align properly with where they need to be mounted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51237489912_744ca10f43_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m4FwEu)20210610_163155 (https://flic.kr/p/2m4FwEu) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Skinning has started, there were a few rivets to add, you may notice a few missing, this is just a little fun as that is the case with aircraft I am making. All other errors are entirely unintentional! I had to make a new blister as the original was somehow over a centimetre too long, I must have forgotten to zero my digital caliper when I measured up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51239259240_ff851362ee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m4QAC9)20210610_163209 (https://flic.kr/p/2m4QAC9) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Some remedial work was needed on the cockpit covering. I made a total mess of putting it on, it should form a straight line with the cowling but was at an angle sloping up towards the cockpit opening. I had to file it right down, remove a section and glue it back down. I haven't fully cured the problem but will be much better once fully patched up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51238404663_920ae8aebe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m4LdA4)20210610_162949 (https://flic.kr/p/2m4LdA4) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I finished playing with wood effects on the cabane and wing struts, these will need micro meshing.
So next jobs are to drill holes for strut mounting and rigging before painting the wings. I have been experimenting a lot over the last few days with methods for painting translucent effects I think only parts left to make are the control horns, tail skid and Lewis gun mount. Little at a time I am getting there!
Many thanks for taking time to read this, please feel free to offer any criticism or advice.
Richie
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Excellent! - really starting to come together now, Richie
Regards
Dave
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Impressive Progress Richie! All is coming together well!
RAGIII
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Just gets better and better , well done so far Richie !
Alexis
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Many thanks Rick, Dave and Alexis. I've got a few days with no bench time to recharge the batteries then it will be wing painting and mounting time. I'm very excited about the that step but have to rein in my inner 10 year old who wants to slosh the paint on and glue it all together.
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Ooh, a great update Richie! And looking very good! The extra time spent on the cockpit cover was really worth it! And lovely struts.... So nice to see such forward progress! Regards, Marc.
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Ahh, thanks Marc, I really appreciate you dropping by and leaving a comment. I'm having so much fun with this build but won't pretend that it hasn't been hugely challenging at times. Like I always say though, if you don't want to be challenged in life stay in bed and that just wouldn't be any fun at all! ;)
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Excellent progress Richie. Good advice to yourself to take your time: a rush now will potentially ruin what you have achieved so far. This is going to be a stunner when finished - even more so as it is a first attempt at a scratch build. But then as you write, if you are going to try out something new then take on something worthwhile - because then you really do learn new skills!
Stephen.
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Wow Richie, you made a great progress in meantime! I couldn't follow and had to read and watch a lot now. I'm most impressed by the wings!
Have a great weekend too and continue having fun with this build,
Frank
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Frank's back in town! Hope you had a good break, glad you like the wings. They certainly didn't surrender without a fight, I'm thinking they may still have plenty of battles left in them!
Many thanks again Stephen, I shall return with a calm head and take things very carefully. I really hope I can bring it all together into the stunning model you believe it could be. If not, I will have had fun, improved as a modeller and learned a huge amount about this beautiful little biplane. It's such a pretty machine I feel a tinge of sadness that it got sent off to war. I'm still going to mount the Lewis gun though! :)
Richie
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Excellent work Richie!
I can see where you are heading.
Willem
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I hadn't commented in a while, but I've been following along. Your wings and tail surfaces look great! You're not far away from putting it all together, and I find that this is the point that really increases the enthusiasm.
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Thanks Ken and Willem, I very much appreciate you looking in on my project. Yes, getting ready to start putting the components together at long last is proving to be very motivating. I shall have a few weeks clear of distractions soon so I can turn that enthusiasm into progress.
Well I got back from a walking holiday among the Neolithic stone circles, burial mounds and monuments of Wiltshire.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51245387974_0b3fc47d47_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m5o1tY)Avebury, Neolithic Avenue of sarsen stones (https://flic.kr/p/2m5o1tY) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Well they say absence makes the heart grow fonder, unfortunately it seems to make the hands grow clumsier too. I skinned the fuselage sides with no alarms then set about the turtle deck. I made a few, test fitted them, chose the best one and then everything went horribly wrong. Only milliput and some careful finishing can save the day now. I am actually well used to saving models from far worse states than this so I think I can correct or camouflage my clumsiness.
As my brother said to me earlier 'putty and paint makes a chippy what he ain't!' :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51254777630_ecd198ce5a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m6d8GA)Bristol Scout Fuselage skinned (https://flic.kr/p/2m6d8GA) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51253004952_01abfb7796_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m643Kb)Bristol Scout Fuselage skinned (https://flic.kr/p/2m643Kb) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I hope to have pictures of a better looking Bristol Scout soon but least you got to see a photo of Avebury stone circle!
Thanks for looking in Richie
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You know , those rocks aren't to scale ;)
Wish I was there right now , we have rain and it's very windy ...it sucks !
Fuselage looks good skid , should look good under a coat of primer . :)
Alexis
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You've got that fuselage nailed nicely, Richie -
Going to look great when painted up.
Regards
Dave
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The fuselage is looking good Richie. I am sure you will sand it into a shape that suits you. I am looking forward to the painting stage 8)
RAGIII
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Ah memories of living in Wiltshire and having the archaeological sites on the doorstep. (Not to mention a rather large spire...)
It is truly amazing what filler and paint will conceal. Another disaster averted - always a good move in scratch building.
Stephen.
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Thanks Dave, Alexis, Stephen and Rick. I'm still plugging away a little at a time but at least the battle of the turtle deck is over. My first attempt ended in shattering defeat when my milliput didn't set, I probably didn't knead it together enough. The fuselage covering is covered in Hycote primer/filler, as you can probably see there is more to be done. This stuff blasts out of the can and is difficult to control but it is possible to get a fantastic finish with it.
The D shape surrounds to the foot holds were added with styrene and filed down to a more scale thickness, unfortunately I seem to have sliced through my internal rigging wires which should be seen. I'm not too bothered and won't attempt to correct the mistake. Eduard etched stitching has been added, more will be added to run alongside the down side of the metal panels.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51263157127_fa9d1a3b74_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m6X5CF)Turtle deck repaired (https://flic.kr/p/2m6X5CF) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The cowling and side panel are just taped in place here. A lot of time has been spent preparing roundel and Union Jack masks but every time I prepare to paint the wings I notice something horrible that needs to be remedied. Perhaps I should stop fussing and just get on with it!
In the absence of any other pictures here is a picture from my recent walking holiday of Silbury Hill which is basically just an enormous Neolithic mud pie. Well what else were they going to model? Biplanes didn't appear for another 6 thousand years! ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51243308420_9e026a33ab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m5cmiA)Silbury Hill ancient monument (https://flic.kr/p/2m5cmiA) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thanks for your patience, this will get finished one day!
Richie
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The fuselage looks good Richie. There comes a point with a model when you have to accept minor blemishes and errors or else the darn thing is never finished. Just paint the roundels and Union Jacks and let others see if they can spot the mistakes.... I'll bet that they cannot.
Stephen.
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The fuselage looks good Richie. There comes a point with a model when you have to accept minor blemishes and errors or else the darn thing is never finished. Just paint the roundels and Union Jacks and let others see if they can spot the mistakes.... I'll bet that they cannot.
Stephen.
Thanks Stephen, that's great advice as ever. I'm very lucky to have you in my corner. It's time to start having fun again with this build. Painting will commence this week.
Richie
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Now that looks really nice Richie :)
Alexis
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You did a wonderful job on the turtleneck Richie.
The detailing on the fuselage looks very good!
Willem
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The fuselage looks good Richie. There comes a point with a model when you have to accept minor blemishes and errors or else the darn thing is never finished. Just paint the roundels and Union Jacks and let others see if they can spot the mistakes.... I'll bet that they cannot.
Stephen.
What he said times 2. This model isn't going to be perfect - I haven't built one yet that is!
It is still going to be unique and very much yours.
I think you've reached the hardest point now, settling for what you've got and getting it finished. I've failed at this point many times with kits
She's an excellent build, mate. The next one will be better!
Richard
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Excellent progress Richie. Far better than anything I could scratch build!
RAGIII
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As Rick said, excellent progress.
I have found one of the most difficult things to learn in scratchbuilding is to accept things that are not perfect in your own eyes.
(I'm managing that though.)
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Thanks so much Ken, Dave, Willem, Alexis, Rick and Richard. It was great advice to stop fussing and just move on, I think I've been suffering from what is often called paralysis by analysis. All the main scratch building tasks are done, it's time to break out the airbrush before it becomes fossilised!
Today I made a start on the RNAS roundels, I like to paint them first then mask over them while I paint the rest of the wing surface. It makes it much easier to mask the thin white outline. Speaking of which I thought early RNAS roundels didn't have them but they are on the aircraft I am modelling. David Bremner who flies and built Scout 1264 thoroughly researched everything so I'll go with what he has done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51268984359_3eea7e6f96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m7sWSc)Roundels painted (https://flic.kr/p/2m7sWSc) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Very little touching up needed, I used Rick's 'old painter's trick' and lightly sprayed with the surrounding colour first to help seal the mask. Thanks for that one Rick! I am using MRP Richthofen Red and Oxford Blue, I really like them. :)
I called time on fussing over the fuselage nose and added the oil and petrol tank filler caps. I think it's the oil tank cap at the front, whatever it is there is a little breather tube which has a brass guard round it. There is also a little copper tube that runs under a tape to the oil tank. I think this leads to the pulsometer in the cockpit. I also finished adding the photo etch stitching. Everything is now in white paint.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51268350853_585a4c2659_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m7pGxF)20210624_172100 (https://flic.kr/p/2m7pGxF) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Well that was fun, I feel very happy to be moving forward again. With a bit of luck it'll all be over by Christmas!
Thanks for reading
Richie
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There you go, now you're looking at the paint - especially the roundels - not the plastic
;)
Richard
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There you go, now you're looking at the paint - especially the roundels - not the plastic
;)
Richard
Bloomin' right mate! ;)
-
Yup: you are really moving this one forward now Richie. No looking back - just keep your eye on the prize - in time for Christmas!
Stephen.
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Richie , lovely job on those wings ! Looking forward on seeing how the rest of the painting goes , this is some really nice work indeed :)
Alexis
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Thanks Stephen and Alexis, I've hit a bit of road block due to ordering the wrong Lewis gun from Gaspatch models. I can certainly finish painting the wings but not the fuselage as I need to make and test fit the gun mount before painting. I don't fancy my chances of scratching a gun but I might have a go just for a giggle before my order arrives.
Richie
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Merciful heavens!
This is really a nice build thread 8) A kit would not look better ::)
Really pity that your ordered the wrong Lewis. Gaspatch provides us with a huge product range of such nice details!
To avoid such waiting time during a project one option is to order the whole product range in own scale during Black Friday offer, which Costas usually provides every year, and put then into stash for later use ;D ;D
He has also sets with different variants, at least for the Vickers, which I ordered:
https://www.gaspatchmodels.com/products/vickers-family-1-48.html
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Frank, next Black Friday I will stock up. There is no point trying to scratch build a Lewis when such amazing products are available. :)
-
Well, I got the wings painted. I used Ammo oil brushers in bone yellow, ochre and buff. It all looks a little rough in close up but at a normal viewing distance it looks quite acceptable. There's always a bit of tidying up to do but the underside of the wings will be in shadow once mounted so the many scruffiness won't really show.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51271102432_ff3dcaa770_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m7DNuG)Wings painted (https://flic.kr/p/2m7DNuG) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I am actually really pleased with the effect and will use this method again in future, hopefully with a bit more refinement!
Have a lovely weekend everybody
Richie
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Those wings and roundels look super from where I am sitting. Getting the shadow effect is not easy but I think that you have done well with these.
Stephen.
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Looks good from where I'm sitting and like stephen said , not easy to do . You will get the hang of it . The effect turns out better if the shading has crisp lines on the underside . Mask of the structure and just spray along the tape edges or you can us pastel chalk . Once the tape is removed spray the linen building this up with light coats until you like the effect .
Alexis
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Thanks Stephen and Alexis, I have neatened things up a bit with turps and a fine brush. It's still a bit scruffy but certainly a lot better. I used a ruler and pencil to draw the structure but forgot I was making a model not doing an oil painting and tried to get a bit too arty. If I like how it looks tomorrow I shall leave as is, if not out will come turps and off will go paint! :)
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I am Totally impressed with not only the build but also the painting! Simply looking Outstanding Richie!
RAGIII
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I am Totally impressed with not only the build but also the painting! Simply looking Outstanding Richie!
RAGIII
Thanks so much Rick, that means a lot to me,I feel a little insecure about the paint job but you've made me feel a lot better about it! :)
-
You do seem to be on more comfortable territory now you are painting
Richard
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You do seem to be on more comfortable territory now you are painting
Richard
Thanks Richard, yes painting is much more familiar ground although I haven't painted large surfaces for over a year now!
-
Those wings are amazing Richie! Some lovely colours, very authentic, and the "randomness" of the effects appeal to me - a real "in-service" look.... Regards, Marc.
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Those wings are amazing Richie! Some lovely colours, very authentic, and the "randomness" of the effects appeal to me - a real "in-service" look.... Regards, Marc.
Many thanks Marc, I'm very happy that you like it! I hope to have another update in a day or so, lots of little victories over a long time means slow progress but hopefully a reasonable finished model!
Richie
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Time has been a bit short recently but at least the painting is mostly done. I won't get any bench time for a few days but gives me time to contemplate the Lewis mount.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51284639810_29855b4bcf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8RbFL)Paint (https://flic.kr/p/2m8RbFL) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51283617461_4720737f18_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8KWM4)Paint (https://flic.kr/p/2m8KWM4) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The cane reinforcement actually has tiny rivets along it, I'm not sure you can see them. As hard as I look I certainly can't!
I managed to knock the petrol cap off. it will be far easier to make a new one than search it so that's a nice easy job that won't take long.
Many thanks for reading
Richie
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Knocking bits off while painting..... that sounds familiar!
Super finish on the flying surfaces.
-
This is coming along great guns now, Richie -
Certainly looking good now you are getting some paint on your Scout. This is going to look great when finally done.
Regards
Dave
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Great looking results, Ritchie.
You'll be 'bringing it home' soon.
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Many thanks Stephen, Dave and Ken. I'm really loving this first foray into scratch building. I have decisions to make re the strut attachment points. They're quite complicated on the real aircraft. I think I may just ignore them in the interests of both sanity and progress!
Richie
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Many thanks Stephen, Dave and Ken. I'm really loving this first foray into scratch building. I have decisions to make re the strut attachment points. They're quite complicated on the real aircraft. I think I may just ignore them in the interests of both sanity and progress!
Richie
Got a picture to show the complications?
Richard
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Got a picture to show the complications?
Richard
[/quote]
Hi Richard, yes it's this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49863297453_fbe731d9ba_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYfr84)20191116_104614 (https://flic.kr/p/2iYfr84) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I think I would struggle to make 1 let alone 8 identical pieces. Been toying with the idea of making them out of masking tape on the Cricut cutter but I think they're just too small. Haven't ruled it out yet though.
Richie
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OK - I'd give that a miss, or fake it with paint. I have enough trouble getting the rigging anchorages close to the struts in the first place!
Richard
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Thanks Richard, I reckon your right. It's a,big problem best avoided or tackled by far more skilled hands than mine! 😂
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Thanks Richard, I reckon your right. It's a,big problem best avoided or tackled by far more skilled hands than mine! 😂
If I find myself getting obsessed by that kind of detail (and I do - a lot!), sometimes it pays to try and work out just how big it will be on the model
Those anchors look about two inches long. That's 1/16" or 1.8mm. and that part needs two holes drilling through it...
Bet I could fake it with copper wire and paint mush more easily! Put two anchors close together, rig the wires, then fill the gap between the anchors with black paint. Dab on some silver if you want to represent the shackles
And... none of that will have anywhere near as much impact as your lovely roundels and weathering.
Richard
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Thanks Rixhard, you have saved me from myself and not for the first time! It's a good thing I won't get any modelling time for a few days, the obsessive thing has crept up on me and must be allowed to dissipate before work continues!
Richie
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Do you think there is a book in this?
'Scratchbuilding psychology for beginners'
;D
Richard
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I would go down the paint road as well. I would paint the black bracket area before putting in the struts and rigging eyelets (did this on my Avro).
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Do you think there is a book in this?
'Scratchbuilding psychology for beginners'
;D
Richard
To be sold in the health and wellbeing section!
I would go down the paint road as well. I would paint the black bracket area before putting in the struts and rigging eyelets (did this on my Avro).
5
Thanks Ken, that's it decided then! Many thanks for the input as always.
Richie
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Yes, sounds familiar Richie, it can be obsessive.
It really works for me to sometimes leave it all for a couple of days and then look at it with fresh eyes and a cleared mind ;)
Willem
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I agree with all of the above. An alternative is to put a small drop of glue or pint on the ends of the wires - I have seen this done often and it s very effective. After all modelling is frequently about deceiving the eye, not necessarily representing the world as it would be at scale.
Stephen.
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The painting and weathering are Fantastic Richie! The fuselage now looks gorgeous with the stitching, oil stains, etc. ! I am as I think I have said Really Impressed with your work!
RAGIII
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After all modelling is frequently about deceiving the eye, not necessarily representing the world as it would be at scale.
Stephen.
Many thanks Stephen, that is something I have a tendency to forget. I remember my art teacher encouraging me to paint what I see instead of what I know to be there. your sage advice is very much the same thing, I shall remember it from now on!
The painting and weathering are Fantastic Richie! The fuselage now looks gorgeous with the stitching, oil stains, etc. ! I am as I think I have said Really Impressed with your work!
RAGIII
That is very kind of you Rick, just don't go zooming in too closely on the pictures though! ;)
Well it was like a late October day here with low temperatures, high winds and rain. Lots and lots of rain. The good news is that I had time for our great hobby again.
The Union Jacks were proving to be a pain, probably due to user error my cutter struggled to produce useable masks so I had to resort to decals from ebay. The blue was the wrong colour match for my roundels so I just masked and airbrushed them;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51285741951_3c7cbf209a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8WQjc)Modified Union Jack blue. (https://flic.kr/p/2m8WQjc) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Once on the model they were masked again and a white border sprayed round them, bit of waste of time as it doesn't show up at all.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51295648935_62e39bf1a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9PBjg)Bristol Scout scratch build (https://flic.kr/p/2m9PBjg) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The little leather reinforcement patches for the rigging were made from masking film, as were the underwing pulley inspection hatches. Unfortunately I painted the roundels slightly out of place with the result that these are slightly too far towards the wing tips. I quite like them though and can live with the small error. The little catches are just thin strips of lead foil I wound round a 0.5mm brass rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51294645496_bdc09f2c38_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9Jt2A)Bristol Scout scratch build (https://flic.kr/p/2m9Jt2A) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51295362654_86f3e0fd86_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9N9do)Bristol Scout scratch build (https://flic.kr/p/2m9N9do) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I had another little play with oil washes round the stitching and spattered a little onto the fuselage for good measure. If I don't like it tomorrow it will be easily removed. Oh the joy of oil paints!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51295649175_02370550ba_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9PBop)Bristol Scout scratch build (https://flic.kr/p/2m9PBop) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Not a lot to show for the many hours I spent but I enjoyed it and didn't get cold and wet. I'm hoping to finish this project by the end of the month so hopefully a new project can start by August.
Many thanks for reading, as ever all tips, advice or criticisms are gratefully received.
Richie
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I think it looks grand, and I love the colours and the weathering Richie.
Very nice to see this bird with the Union Jack.
Willem
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Now that really is looking the part now, Richie -
I like your weathered fabric look
Regards
Dave
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i like it a lot, the colours and weathering look spot on and nice job on spraying the blue on the decals.
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Thanks for taking the time to drop in and comment Rookie, Dave and EBF. Although I'm having a lot of fun with this project I am suffering from serious doubts about every stage of the process so your kind words are much appreciated!
After spending many hours just fiddling around test fitting the top wing, I think for the sake of my sanity the next project might have to be an Airfix 1/72 Spitfire!
As said the fit of the top wing is proving awkward to say the least, probably all the more so because I haven't tried it with the cabane struts. The truth is that fitting them scares the living daylights out of me. The locating holes need to be absolutely precisely placed, I will figure it out I'm sure but any advice would be very welcome.
Having said that the alignment looks promising but a lot of fettling is my immediate future.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51297264480_92319b156f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9XTyu)Wings test fit without cabanes (https://flic.kr/p/2m9XTyu) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51296970514_eded0bf524_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9Wob7)Wings test fit without cabanes (https://flic.kr/p/2m9Wob7) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51296258116_5f10298fcf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9SJpo)Wings test fit without cabanes (https://flic.kr/p/2m9SJpo) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Best wishes
Richie
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Most modellers of biplanes (myself included) fit the upper wing to the cabane struts first, then add the wing struts when it's all secure. The pins on the wing struts need to be short enough to allow them to pop into place with minimal bending of the strut. Trying to fit them all at the same time is a recipe for frustration!
Lovely work though, she's going to be a cracker!
Ian
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Hi Richie,
I agree with Ian.
Besides that, I was thinking of making transparent paper templates for the location holes of the cabane struts, and then test and dry-fit with dummy struts made bamboo snack sticks?
Bamboo is easy to shape and sand.
Willem
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Thanks chaps, that is all very good advice, I'm going to stop for the day and come back to it tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help, it's been a day of much head scratching and staring into space!
Richie
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OMG! That bird is soooo nice :o
You created your own WNW kit 8)
Good luck for the remaining tasks!
Cheers,
Frank
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This is what scratchbuilding is all about. When you build a kit, all the constructional details have been decided for you - you don't have to think about them
Now you are learning about model construction AND how the full size aeroplane worked. Cabane struts are very important, you might notice I now try to make them part of the fuselage sides if I can
And - you'll come up with a solution. I have every confidence in you
Richard
It's got to be better than many of Airfix's 1/72 biplanes
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"I am suffering from serious doubts about every stage of the process..." as do most of the rest of us regardless of whether we are scratch building or making a kit. We imagine the perfect and make the possible. Just keep going - you are doing very well indeed.
One word of advice which might be helpful. I make card jigs to support the top wing while I am dry fitting struts and later when I am putting the struts into place. These help to keep the wing in place in the vertical plane - paint pots or other suitable items close to hand support the leading and/or trailing edges while it all sets. I would certainly fix the cabanes before the wing struts because the latter can be slipped into place more easily on a single bay biplane.
The colours you have on the model are very realistic - the CDL and the staining are clearly based on observation of a real aeroplane and you have captured the look very well indeed.
Stephen.
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OMG! That bird is soooo nice :o
You created your own WNW kit 8)
Good luck for the remaining tasks!
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks Frank, I must make sure I don't butcher it in these last few steps!
This is what scratchbuilding is all about. When you build a kit, all the constructional details have been decided for you - you don't have to think about them
Now you are learning about model construction AND how the full size aeroplane worked. Cabane struts are very important, you might notice I now try to make them part of the fuselage sides if I can
And - you'll come up with a solution. I have every confidence in you
Richard
It's got to be better than many of Airfix's 1/72 biplanes
You're so right there Richard!!!! I was thinking that I'm like a learner driver who doesn't look far enough down the road and anticipate problems. I have been realising that I should have made the cabanes part of the frame. Hopefully I can get this step right, I'm going to make a jig to help keep everything in line. The Cricut cutter should make that an easy task.
I stamped on an Airfix biplane as a child after losing my temper at this exact stage. Folks on this forum now turn them into masterpieces! :)
Richie
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I've just checked. The only 1/32 aeroplanes I've built with four simple upright cabane struts are the Tabloid and a Roden DH.2
The DH.2 has a very curved top to the fuselage so I could seat the cabanes nicely. And by the time I got to the Tabloid I had learned to attach them to the fuselage sides!
Richard
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"I am suffering from serious doubts about every stage of the process..." as do most of the rest of us regardless of whether we are scratch building or making a kit. We imagine the perfect and make the possible. Just keep going - you are doing very well indeed.
One word of advice which might be helpful. I make card jigs to support the top wing while I am dry fitting struts and later when I am putting the struts into place. These help to keep the wing in place in the vertical plane - paint pots or other suitable items close to hand support the leading and/or trailing edges while it all sets. I would certainly fix the cabanes before the wing struts because the latter can be slipped into place more easily on a single bay biplane.
The colours you have on the model are very realistic - the CDL and the staining are clearly based on observation of a real aeroplane and you have captured the look very well indeed.
Stephen.
Many thanks Stephen, I shall certainly be following your advice and making a card jig to help with alignment, the learning curve just got a lot steeper but with the priceless advice of you and the good folks on this forum I will scramble my way up it yet!
Richie
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Excellent progress, Ritchie. Fitting the upper wing has been a significant and frustrating step in my builds, but with some patience, I got things worked out. I'm sure you will too, after coming so far.
Sounds like I take the difficult way to fit the wing, making all the struts and cabanes and test fitting everything at once, making adjustments to whatever struts need it.
Just realize you are probably at the most difficult step. It will take some time and patience. You definitely can do this!
Best of luck - we're all behind you.
(The serious doubts near the end of a build is normal for me - I don't want to screw up all the work I've done already.)
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Hi everybody, many thanks for the tips re wing fitting, it has proved to be very helpful!
There's been another bout of fettling and wrestling with the wings this morning. I used my old broken Ammo jig to help and it really did but even so it was definitely not easy at first but I think I'm getting the knack of it after several test fittings. There are problems of alignment that will need a lot of tweaking but that's ok because I will get a lot of practice at getting the wings on and off.
Until it all looks better aligned and I can easily get the wings on I won't glue anything else onto the model in case of breakages. I expect this to take at least a week or so, once done I shall be back on familiar ground and should be able to get this finished at long last!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51297276117_22fbec9f26_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9XX28)Test fitting (https://flic.kr/p/2m9XX28) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51298021031_cfc9c07416_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ma2Lst)Test fitting (https://flic.kr/p/2ma2Lst) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51298195573_d23e155765_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ma3EkP)Test fitting (https://flic.kr/p/2ma3EkP) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Many thanks again for the advice and encouragement.
Richie
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Until it all looks better aligned and I can easily get the wings on I won't glue anything else onto the model in case of breakages.
Yes, I learned that one the hard way too. Especially the rudder
Richard
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Excellent progress, Ritchie. Fitting the upper wing has been a significant and frustrating step in my builds, but with some patience, I got things worked out. I'm sure you will too, after coming so far.
Sounds like I take the difficult way to fit the wing, making all the struts and cabanes and test fitting everything at once, making adjustments to whatever struts need it.
Just realize you are probably at the most difficult step. It will take some time and patience. You definitely can do this!
Best of luck - we're all behind you.
(The serious doubts near the end of a build is normal for me - I don't want to screw up all the work I've done already.)
Many thanks Ken, yes fitting the top wing is proving to be a big hurdle. I will keep adjusting, test fitting and adjusting until everything works together properly.
Haha, you hit the nail on the head about what is causing the doubts. I have been on this project for so long and can see the finish line but am terrified of screwing everything up!
Until it all looks better aligned and I can easily get the wings on I won't glue anything else onto the model in case of breakages.
Yes, I learned that one the hard way too. Especially the rudder
Richard
I've knocked the filler caps a few times already, I'm so glad I haven't fitted the undercarriage legs yet. The tail feathers, cowling and side panel are just taped on for now. There are so few places to hold the model without carnage ensuing! Wish I gone for the Bristol M1c monoplane for my first scratch build now!
Richie
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Too late for the Bristol M1c - just keep at it, take your time and suddenly that top wing will be on and the rest of the model will be intact. Finding places to hold the model is certainly a problem with all the delicate pieces under your fingers - especially when working in the True Scale! You can certainly finish this bird having got this far - no repeats of childish behavour now...!
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that's looking pretty damn good from where i'm sitting, keep at it and keep the faith, you're doing a cracking job and anyone who scratch builds a model has my upmost respect.
-
no repeats of childish behavour now...!
Definitely no repeats, I got a thick ear for that after my dad spent his hard earned on our monthly 'model day.' I learned a great deal about the virtues of patience and the value of money that day!that's looking pretty damn good from where i'm sitting, keep at it and keep the faith, you're doing a cracking job and anyone who scratch builds a model has my upmost respect.
Thanks so much EBF, I have actually found this easier than 1/72 biplane kits. Anyone who can turn them out to your standard has my utmost respect!
Richie
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WOW!! Tremendous progress Richie! The Union Jacks look great and the wings also! Your alignment looks good in the photos so I am sure your tweaks will work out just fine. This is really turning into a gorgeous model.
RAGIII
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Great work, Richie. Looks very promising with both of the wings. Looking forward to see your next steps.
Bye Manni
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Amazing work and progress, Richie -
This really looks the part now and is going to look stunning when finished.
Regards
Dave
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What a lovely biplane, looks now like a WNW kit!
Fantastic work 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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This is looking quite stunning, Richie! Some great work and very neat and beautiful! Take your time, we are enjoying your progress! Regards, Marc.
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Thanks so much Rick, Manni, Dave, Frank and Monty. I'm still fiddling about with the struts but think I have the problem solved now so have started making the Lewis gun mount and control horns. I have managed to damage the paint on the cabanes so they will need to be repainted and allowed to dry before the final fitting. I can occupy myself by drilling the many holes required in the meantime.
Richie
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This paint damage thing also seems to happen. I get it with the brass struts I use, which don't take paint well even if I use an etch primer
Dabbing bits of paint here and there are my finishing touched before calling a model done. I'm getting pretty good at threading a loaded paintbrush through rigging...
Richard
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Just catching up on your progress Richie and that looks beautiful so far , really impressive work :)
Alexis
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Just catching up on your progress Richie and that looks beautiful so far , really impressive work :)
Alexis
Hi Alexis, really good to hear from you and thanks for the compliment. I hope you are coping with the furnace like heatwave we keep reading about in the news here. It looks shocking.
Richie
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Just a little update, it was a rare sunny day so I sat in the garden and whittled a prop from laminated veneers, the prop on Scout 1264 is a thing of beauty.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50084389882_e6dd5abe44_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiMAcu)Bristol Scout 1264 (https://flic.kr/p/2jiMAcu) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The blades look different lengths in the photo but I have measured them to be within 1mm of each other, I must have been stood slightly to one side when I took it. There is something off with the symmetry though and I just couldn't work out what it was. It's good enough though and I will be using this one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51317657793_3d1e239456_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mbLpMk)Bristol Scout Prop (https://flic.kr/p/2mbLpMk) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
The paint has surely fully cured on the cabane struts now so tomorrow will be a day of drilling holes for rigging and maybe mounting the top wing if it plays nicely. Nearly there!
Richie
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Your prop looks Just as Lovely as the one in the Museum to Me Richie! More impressive work!
RAGIII
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your prop looks great and i personally can't see any difference in the lengths, it's more than good enough to use
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That's a very odd optical illusion, I think you're right. Looks like the camera is a little to the left of centre
What wood are you using for your props?
Richard
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Thank Rick, EBF and Richard. I'm not sure what the woods all are as I bought them as a box of veneer offcuts. I'm pretty sure the top one is a rosewood of some kind, probably a few layers of mahogany and as a guess the light layer may well be maple.
Richie
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Veneer offcuts! Looks like there are plenty on Ebay
Thank you
Richard
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I seem to remember buying mine from Etsy, there was a lot of utter garbage but a few sheets have been very useful.
Richie
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I think the prop is spot on Richie.
Beautiful work!
What's the story of the prop blade in the lefthand side of the pic?
Willem
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Thanks Willem, that's very kind of you. I think the blade on the left is an original Bristol Scout blade complete with binding to prevent splinters when bullets hit it. There was no interrupter gear and the Lewis gun shot straight through the propeller arc, they considered 10 bullet holes in a blade to be perfectly acceptable. Very brave and possibly crazy young men!
Richie
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Very nice recreation of the prop, Ritchie. Looks good. Maybe the right blade is wider than the left? Could very well be another optical illusion.
You're getting very close to completion of this great looking model.
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Prop looks alright to my eye Richie , faaaar better then what these hands could do :)
Alexis
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Brilliant work on your carved prop, Richie -
We always seem to see our own flaws in our own models ...........
Regards
Dave
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Thanks Ken, Dave and Alexis, I think the assymetry is from an unequal twist in the blades. From most angles it looks OK, well certainly good enough for me!
Today I have been putting the undercarriage on which involves attaching a few rigging lines that will be inaccessible later. I forgot how fiddly this stage is and am not very much looking forward to the main job. Hope to have pics of the legs and wheels in place later tonight.
Richie
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Splendid work, Richie.
::) ::) ::)
Excellent.
Bob
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Splendid work, Richie.
::) ::) ::)
Excellent.
Bob
Thank you Bob, nice of you to drop by. :)
Another little milestone reached, the undercarriage is all on and rigged. The wheels are from a Fokker Eindekker that went to the place unwanted models go to die.
The cowling, side panels and engine are all glued in place, it's not quite the Tamiya style fit I hoped for but it'll do. I am not going to attempt a rescue as I would quite like to finish this project one day!
Hopefully it won't be a monoplane for much longer but the thought of drilling all those rigging holes in my stifling man cave is not very appealing at the moment.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51322137446_5ba09f93dd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mcanqJ)Undercarriage done and rigged. (https://flic.kr/p/2mcanqJ) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Many thanks for reading, stay well everybody!
Richie
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You do it the right way - step by step finding solutions and add new nice parts to your artwork!
Looks already very nice.
I would quite like to finish this project one day!
I hope so!
Cheers,
Frank
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Great to see your Bristol Scout on it's feet now - can't wait to see the finished result.
Regarding the cowling panel fit - I've noticed on real aircraft that the panel fit is not always nice and flush so I would not worry about it.
Regards
Dave
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You do it the right way - step by step finding solutions and add new nice parts to your artwork!
Looks already very nice.
I would quite like to finish this project one day!
I hope so!
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks Frank, I'm slowly getting there. I am actually shocked to have got this far. I can almost see the finish line now!
Great to see your Bristol Scout on it's feet now - can't wait to see the finished result.
Regarding the cowling panel fit - I've noticed on real aircraft that the panel fit is not always nice and flush so I would not worry about it.
Regards
Dave
Many thanks Dave, that is good news regarding the cowling fit! I was contemplating trying to remove it but decided that there might be carnage as a result. Hopefully this will be done in a week or two. I have only the Lewis gun mount, rear struts and control horns left to make. The 1264 serial number will probably just be letraset.
I like the Bristol Scout so much I might make Lanoe Hawker's machine and use the figure from the WNW DH2 kit.
Richie
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Really looks Awesome sitting on its gear Richie! Looking forward to that upper wing being put in it's proper place!
RAGIII
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Hi Richie,
I think she's looking great already. Looks like her last landing was a little rough and the side panel parted a little from the cowling. Makes it only more realistic IMHO. I love the weathering and the oil stains around the filler cap.
She's going to be a beauty for sure!
Willem
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Hi Richie ,
I was going to mess with you and say that the landing gear legs are backwards , but than I though what if comes down here and mess's up some of my builds ...Well I sure wouldn't feel to good about that at all so I have decided against telling you that . It just wouldn't be a very nice thing to do .
So I will say that it looks awesome in place and you are really doing one hell of job on this build !
Alexis , taking cover ...
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i think the cowl looks great and now it's up on it's legs it's really looking the part
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Excellent progress Richie - it really is beginning to look like a Scout with the lower wing and u/c in place. The colours look even more convincing now that the sub-assemblies are coming together. Fixing the upper wing will probably test your nerves a bit, but a few dry runs and some simple jigs will solve all of the problems.
Stephen.
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Really looks Awesome sitting on its gear Richie! Looking forward to that upper wing being put in it's proper place!
RAGIII
Thanks Rick, I'm looking forward to seeing the upper wing in place too, hopefully in its proper place! :)
Hi Richie,
I think she's looking great already. Looks like her last landing was a little rough and the side panel parted a little from the cowling. Makes it only more realistic IMHO. I love the weathering and the oil stains around the filler cap.
She's going to be a beauty for sure!
Willem
Thanks Willem, I reckon that's a good explanation for the misalignment! I think the pilot got a little carried away by flying the world's first fully aerobatic aircraft, twisted the frame pulling too many violent stunts and so couldn't control the landing!Hi Richie ,
I was going to mess with you and say that the landing gear legs are backwards , but than I though what if comes down here and mess's up some of my builds ...Well I sure wouldn't feel to good about that at all so I have decided against telling you that . It just wouldn't be a very nice thing to do .
So I will say that it looks awesome in place and you are really doing one hell of job on this build !
Alexis , taking cover ...
Thanks Alexis! No need to run for cover, you made me triple check the landing gear which is a good thing.
i think the cowl looks great and now it's up on it's legs it's really looking the part
Many thanks EBF, I really enjoyed every part of making the cowl. Especially eating the sauce that that donated its bottle top to make it!
Excellent progress Richie - it really is beginning to look like a Scout with the lower wing and u/c in place. The colours look even more convincing now that the sub-assemblies are coming together. Fixing the upper wing will probably test your nerves a bit, but a few dry runs and some simple jigs will solve all of the problems.
Stephen.
Many thanks Stephen, I'm really pleased with how the painting has come out. The CDL colour is all bone yellow and ochre Ammo Oilbrushers rubbed on with cotton buds. I have a lot of touching up and some control horns to make before resuming hostilities with the top wing but it will happen.
Time has been in short supply this week but I managed to take a small step forward that has been holding me up. The Lewis gun arrived from Gaspatch and very lovely it is too. I made the mount from styrene channel, brass wire, miniature hex nuts and bits of left over photo etch fret. Brass pins are used to help form a stronger bond to the fuselage and the gun which is just dry fitted here.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330459146_fcf3c80bbc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mcU2bj)Lewis gun practice fit. (https://flic.kr/p/2mcU2bj) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Sorry for the rubbish photo, the worst thing about it is that is shows I have managed to remove the latches and hinges from the access hatch. Ho hum.
Richie
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I do that more and more often - the pins thing. It makes painting a lot easier, and if the model will hang together without glue, it's going to be fine when I finish assemble it
You probably haven't finished this yet, at the moment there seems to be a big mismatch in the weathering between the fuselage and the side cowls. The cowls look to clean!
And the gun is delightful!
Richard
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Got to agree with Richard that the gun and mount is delightful.All very Heath-Robinson - just like the original!
Stephen.
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I do that more and more often - the pins thing. It makes painting a lot easier, and if the model will hang together without glue, it's going to be fine when I finish assemble it
You probably haven't finished this yet, at the moment there seems to be a big mismatch in the weathering between the fuselage and the side cowls. The cowls look to clean!
And the gun is delightful!
Richard
Many thanks Richard, I totally get what you say about the weathering but it's a little odd on the actual aircraft. The first time I saw it the fuselage was plastered with castor oil stains, the aluminium cowling was also heavily stained and matt but the side panels were still shiny! Oddly the panel on top of the fuselage just behind the engine cowling, although aluminium is a different colour altogether!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51334339139_91521e7ded_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mdeUyK)50170998237_e31a63529d_b (https://flic.kr/p/2mdeUyK) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I think she was recovered during lockdown last year so the linen all looks very pristine now,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49864141697_5169009b31_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjL5Z)20191116_104554 (https://flic.kr/p/2iYjL5Z) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I had intended to model her as she is now but my less than precise skills meant I had to hide some mistakes with a bit of weathering. :(
All very Heath-Robinson - just like the original!
Stephen.
Many thanks Stephen, Heath Robinson style suits my often clumsy approach at the moment!
I won't get any time for a few days but hopefully the next update will see all the flying surfaces mounted.
Best wishes all
Richie
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The Battle of the Top Wing is over, the Battle of the Rigging is about to begin. Well it's actually begun but that wouldn't have helped to channel my inner Churchill. I will be needing plenty of his kind of determination to get this finished, the Battle of the Top Wing was not a victory for me, more of a strategic withdrawal to preserve what remains of my mojo. Things got really ugly and I have decided to just plod on and get it finished even if it looks a bit on the warty side. ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51345786878_834466a7ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mefzzy)20210730_180251 (https://flic.kr/p/2mefzzy) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Have a great weekend everybody
Richie
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That looks Brilliant Richie! When I think back to the WNW Camel seeming to be too challenging, (In your Mind), I can't believe how far your modeling and talent have progressed!!!!!
RAGIII
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I disagree with you Richie, you can definitely call this a victory.
And I totally agree with all that Rick said.
You can be proud!
Willem
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You have certainly won with that wing Richie, whatever your doubts may be. In my experience getting the top wing on even nearly accurately is an achievement, and I know that others experience similar problems because I have seen the results of their efforts for real! If it looks about right from most angles, then it is right! Rigging should not take too long as it is relatively simple and then you will have completed your first WW1 masterpiece. Looking forward to seeing it.
Stephen.
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Y'know what's happened there with that weathering, don't you. Some inconsiderate swine has gone and CLEANED IT!
Honestly, what's a modeller supposed to do
Richard
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Thanks so much Rick, Willem and Stephen. I was feeling a bit fed up with it but you've really lifted my spirits!
Haha, Rick I remember so well you trying so hard to walk me through the WNW Camel. I found it such a fiddly model and ended up abandoning it in the end. I might well use the engine and other bits and bobs for a project one day but so comprehensive was my defeat that I don't think I can resurrect it. I have to remember that was only a year or so ago and enjoy how much I've learned since joining this great forum.
Stephen, I really hope to show you the finished model but I have cricket matches on Saturday and Sunday so hopefully everything will go well on Monday and I can complete the main rigging and trim off the excess fishing line and fill and retouch all the little holes.
Y'know what's happened there with that weathering, don't you. Some inconsiderate swine has gone and CLEANED IT!
Honestly, what's a modeller supposed to do
Richard
Yes Richard, why'd they go and do a thing like that? When I saw it last year even the metalwork was filthy with oil and it looked glorious! What I find weird though is that the engine cowl is always matt and stained despite being aluminium like the side panels. Perhaps it's the heat from the engine or maybe it gets so plastered they have to scour it with abrasives.
Richie
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Don't be hard on your self Richie , you have done a fantastic job on her to date . Your skills have really shined here !
Alexis
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looking pretty damn good from where i'm sitting, as a first scratch build it's one to be proud of
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Looks wonderful to me too. What a delight.
When scratchbuilding, I find the bit where you get fed up is always right when you are finally getting somewhere. If you push through you will suddenly find you have done something great and the next stage will feel a lot easier.
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A first scratchbuild is always a learning experience (in fact, every one is) and you've done great with this one. It's almost done now and soon you will be able to admire the end result and say to yourself in no uncertain terms -'I made this!'.
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All parts are coming together to form a beautiful biplane now!
Looks like a WNW, but you did it without :thumbs_up:
Cheers,
Frank
PS: Once you are finished with this bird it may be the right moment between two projects to clean up the bench (https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/ziel.gif)
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Leave the mess Richie , it shows character ! :) ;) 8)
Alexis
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Many, many thanks for your kindness, encouragement and good humour everybody. I hope to have an update tomorrow with all of the main rigging done.
Alexis I think Frank is right, the bench is in desperate need of a clear up again. I spend more time looking for bits than modelling recently! :D
Richie
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Just a quick little update, the main rigging is all done although looking at the photo I just noticed that the rigging on the undercarriage has mostly pinged off. Many little touch ups will be needed but it is so nearly finished. I am so glad I didn't succumb to the temptation to test its resistance to hammer blows last week. I have a new golden rule, NEVER go to the workbench whilst feeling miserable!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51350825496_67f71056fc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2meGpoh)Rigging (https://flic.kr/p/2meGpoh) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Many thanks lovely people for all your encouragement, this one would be in the rubbish bin by now without you.
Best wishes
Richie
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She's looking great Richie!
I'm sure that you can ping the undercarriage rigging right back on ;)
The "hammer-thought" sounds all too familiar.
This is a good example of perseverance, resilience and stamina.
Very inspiring!
Willem
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Looks fantastic, Richie -
Can't wait to this is the 'Completed models' section.
Regards
Dave
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The rigging looks great and repairing the gear wires should be NO Problem for a New Master scratch Builder ;D I am Gobsmacked by your results on this one Richie!
RAGIII
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Take a deep breath Richie ,
Been there many times over having to repair rigging lines , it really isn't all that bad and is easily repaired . If I had a pair of giant green hands ( like she hulk :) ) , many projects would have smashed. So you are a head of game !!!
Learn't many years ago to never sit in front of the bench when the weather inside me turns , I have to shine inside and you my friend shine very brightly indeed ! Keep up with the excellence :)
Alexis
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That is a good progress Richie! Keep focus on the last meters and do not try to force things!
Alexis I think Frank is right, the bench is in desperate need of a clear up again. I spend more time looking for bits than modelling recently!
That was my intention!
I have now some of those drawers below my workbench, which helped a lot with easy access to the tools (and allow to put the tools out of the way quickly). Here is only an example, there are slight differences (to mount with tape, with little screws, size, colors ...) Ebay and Amazon has a lot of offers.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/373522103777
May be I should post this tip somewhere else in the forum to get a better attention.
Cheers,
Frank
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So very close to the finish line Richie! That really does look the business, and as others have commented those u/c rigging lines will be a very minor issue to sort out when compared to what you have achieved so far. This is an exceptional build for a first scratch build - I am really looking forward to seeing this one completed - it has been a long journey but a very worthwhile one.
Stephen.
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A bit of pinged rigging is about par for the course. I don't know if you are having the same experience, I find rigging on scratchbuilt models actually adds to the structure
Other popular rigging annoyances I have discovered include:
Accidentally cutting rigged wires when trimming off ends.
Threading the wire through the wrong end of a brass tube
Getting a wire wrapped around a strut
Getting wires crossed over other wires
Leaving the wire too short
Pulling the model out of shape
On the other hand, there's something satisfying about rigging a model
Richard
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Many thanks Willem, Rick, Dave, Frank, Alexis and Stephen. Yes it's been a heck of a long project but this lovely little biplane has taught me a lot about model making, history, the virtues of patience and perhaps the importance of tidying up the workspace. Well perhaps Frank and Willem are trying to teach me the importance of being tidier :)
Rick you have been so kind to me since my very first post on this great forum but a close look at this model would quickly show me as very much the master's apprentice. I can't thank you enough for your support though!
Yes Frank, I'm going to pace myself over the last stretch. Then I'm going to clear my bench and get some of those drawers!
I got quite a lot done today.
Tail feathers added, I used balsa splints to keep everything in line
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51353025296_918f9a0280_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2meTFiS)Tail feathers (https://flic.kr/p/2meTFiS) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Rigging completed;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51353500528_b6b55f4653_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2meW7zw)Rigging completed (https://flic.kr/p/2meW7zw) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51354011544_045da6c2f2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2meYJu9)Rigging completed (https://flic.kr/p/2meYJu9) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51354011524_12595d61cc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2meYJtN)Rigging completed (https://flic.kr/p/2meYJtN) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
I have still to make the struts for the tail feathers, the bamboo hoops that go under the lower wings and reattach the undercarriage rigging but the main jobs are all done. Hopefully I can do a good job of all the little touch ups needed and then I can begin a massive and very difficult project....tidying up! :D
Many thanks for sticking with me for just over a year now!
Richie
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Absolutely oozes character - love it!
Richard
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Absolutely oozes character - love it!
Richard
Thanks so much Richard, we must have been posting at the same time!
I love that list of rigging woes, I did most of them over the last few days. Especially the wrapping threads round the struts, I ended up with an absolute birds nest round the cabanes at one point. Luckily I got used to untangling fishing line after spending many years at the water's edge untangling fishing line. Strange pass time that! ;)
I have one to add;
Leaving the line far too long, getting it glued to my fingers and nearly dragging the model off the bench when leaving the room. It was very nearly Goodnight Vienna!
Richie
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A superb result, Ritchie! An awesome subject matter and you've pulled it off! Go have a beer, or whatever. ;)
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A superb result, Ritchie! An awesome subject matter and you've pulled it off! Go have a beer, or whatever. ;)
Agreed, and Have a Couple for Me!
RAGIII
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Congratulations. What an amazing result. The airframe, colours and weathering look spot on. It looks like you could kick the tyres and climb right in!
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Richie,
It's indeed been a long haul for you however what a beautiful result! Richard says it so well, "absolutely oozes character". All but complete now, congratulations on a beautiful model!
Cheers,
Lance
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Very very impressive Richie , can't wait to see her finished now !
Alexis
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Superb.
Sandy
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I would say, looking at the pictures, that I think this plane is a Bristol Scout. Definitely!
Couldn't be better!
Cheers,
Frank
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I just wish that others could see this Richie, as I did earlier today. It looks awesome in photos so others will just have to guess what it looks like close up on the table. You are very close indeed to finishing this now, so leave the beer for a few days and then buy yourself a ticket for the Munich beer festival... you will be just in time and you can call in to Frank on the way and show him!!
Stephen.
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A superb result, Ritchie! An awesome subject matter and you've pulled it off! Go have a beer, or whatever. ;)
Agreed, and Have a Couple for Me!
RAGIII
A superb result, Ritchie! An awesome subject matter and you've pulled it off! Go have a beer, or whatever. ;)
Thanks so much Ken and Rick, I think after a year of head scratching it's beer time at last. I shall have one for both of you and a few for me too![
quote author=William Adair link=topic=11284.msg232256#msg232256 date=1627994201]
Congratulations. What an amazing result. The airframe, colours and weathering look spot on. It looks like you could kick the tyres and climb right in!
[/quote]
Many thanks William, your SB6 was a huge inspiration. I still scratch my head and wonder how such a model could be possible but I'm pleased with my first effort!
Richie,
It's indeed been a long haul for you however what a beautiful result! Richard says it so well, "absolutely oozes character". All but complete now, congratulations on a beautiful model!
Cheers,
Lance
Many thanks Lance, I'm finally calling it done. I feel really happy, this is only my second completed model since you so warmly welcomed me to the forum 18 months ago. Hopefully I can work a bit more efficiently now!
Very very impressive Richie , can't wait to see her finished now !
Alexis
Thanks as always Alexis, the wait is over. Will post in completed models shortly. Thanks for your constant encouragement and sense of humour!
Superb.
Sandy
Cheers Sandy! :D
I would say, looking at the pictures, that I think this plane is a Bristol Scout. Definitely!
Couldn't be better!
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks Frank, you are a legend!
I just wish that others could see this Richie, as I did earlier today. It looks awesome in photos so others will just have to guess what it looks like close up on the table. You are very close indeed to finishing this now, so leave the beer for a few days and then buy yourself a ticket for the Munich beer festival... you will be just in time and you can call in to Frank on the way and show him!!
Stephen.
Stephen, as I said to you yesterday, I cannot thank you enough for all your kindness and encouragement in leading me down the scratch building road. You were so right when you told me last year that it is the most rewarding form of modelling.
Well, I'm calling it done now. There are so many touch ups and refinements that I could spend another 6 months doing but I think it's time to raise a glass and call it done.
Here is a little preview picture, I will post more in completed models shortly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51357345679_549cb050e0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mfgPBe)1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout (https://flic.kr/p/2mfgPBe) by Richard Williams (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187004837@N07/), on Flickr
Thank you so much everybody for all the tips, advice and encouragement.
Best wishes all
Richie
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Brilliant!!! ....and more!!
Stephen.
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Well done! There's so much to look at. It's beautiful and inspiring too. ;D
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Alexis
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This is absolutely brilliant Richie!
If this is your first scratch build, then I cannot wait to see your next one.
Anything on your shortlist for a next scratch? Or is your next aircraft going to be a nice and easy kit, just to catch your breath?
I think you can be very proud of what you accomplished.
Willem
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Well done! There's so much to look at. It's beautiful and inspiring too. ;D
Thanks so much William!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) ;)
This is absolutely brilliant Richie!
If this is your first scratch build, then I cannot wait to see your next one.
Anything on your shortlist for a next scratch? Or is your next aircraft going to be a nice and easy kit, just to catch your breath?
I think you can be very proud of what you accomplished.
Willem
Thanks so much Willem, it was fun sharing a first time scratch building adventure with you. Whoever said the curve was steep wasn't kidding!!!!!
I'm thinking a BE2c next but I might do a quick build of a 1/72 Sopwith Triplane kit first. Whatever the next project I will start it in a week or two. It will take that long to clear the bench!
Brilliant!!! ....and more!!
Stephen.
Thanks so much Stephen, I could not have managed with you!
Richie
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Building a model kit to such standards is first rate and deserves respect. But scratch building such a model is high art! Hats off!!!
Andreas