forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris on May 21, 2020, 05:55:32 AM
-
Hi all,
Next up on the modelling bench is the Roden 1:32nd scale Siemens-Schuckert D.III.
As the last three models I've built were resin and needed more than a little 'correction', I thought I'd get back to styrene for this one.
That said I am aware this kit will also need some attention, so I've noted observations from the previous builds of 'Lance', 'IWIK' and our own 'Des', in addition to those noted in the 'Pheon' decal booklet.
This model represents the early version of the Siemens Schuckert D.III (Serial number between 8340/17 and 8359/17), as flown by Ltn. Joachim von Ziegesar when serving with Jasta 15 during May, 1918.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/pageheader1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/pilotZiegesar.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/plane1.jpg)
Aftermarket consists of:
‘Aviattic’ linen effect Lozenge decals -ATT32108, ATT32109, ATT32013, ATT32073 and ATT32075.
'Aviattic' Wood grain dark (ATT32235).
'Aviattic' photo-etch rib tapes (ATTETCH001).
‘Pheon’ 32023 decals - Siemens Schuckert D.III Markings.
‘Brengun’ photo-etch Siemens Schuckert D.III (BRL32014).
‘Gaspatch’ 1/32 Spandau 08/15 Extended loading Handle (Late) machine guns.
'HGW' Models' seat belts (32006).
'Loon Models' resin conversion (LO32006)
Hopefully, if Alex comes up good - 'ProperPlane' wood laminated four bladed propeller.
One day I will build something 'OOB',
Mike
-
One day I will build something 'OOB',
Mike
Highly Doubtful Mike ;D I will follow along as I have one of these in the stash!
RAGIII
-
Great Mike!
This is going to be a fun one to watch as you give it the treatment.
Kevin
-
Quote from: Mike 'Sandbagger' Norris on Today at 05:55:32 AM
One day I will build something 'OOB',
Mike
Quote from: sp
"BWAHAHAHA"
But I'll still follow along and learn something
sp
-
Mike,
Great choice; frankly, despite several of the kit's "challenges", it is still my favorite model of all those in my cabinets. It's a "mean" looking aircraft and with a bit of extra effort it builds into a beautiful model. Very timely choice as well, under your skilled treatment it should reinforce the fact that the Roden line is very decent and more so in the face of the recent impact from the Wingnut Wings event. It should look spectacular in that dark wood scheme and I'm eagerly looking forward to following along. I recently picked up another of these and also that excellent Bren Gun PE Set as I always planned a second one in a dark wood scheme. You now have my undivided attention!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Excellent choice of subject! Yes this kit has some warts but it is my favorite finished build I have done - it is about the only one I don't look at and find a lot of faults or things I wish I had done differently.
-
You have my full attention on this one Mike , can add to what the others have mentioned . It is a wonderful kit and builds very nicely . The BG set is top notch for some of the smaller details , but the seat is oversized for this aircraft and one made by your talented hands would be the cats meow ! Nice list of goodies you have for her as well . I won't go into what is incorrect , mostly with in the pit but some how I don't think you will be using much of it . Here is my build on the subject if it will aid . I have a lot of refs on this one so if you have any questions , will do my best to help .
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10553.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10553.0)
Terri
-
Hi all,
Thanks.
Also Terri - thanks for your link,
Mike
-
I'm looking forward to this one Mike. I started one of these once, but fouled it up and put it aside. Maybe your build will show me the way and I can start a second Covid-shelf queen build! I am sure you will handle this somewhat-finicky kit with grace and aplomb. ::) Seriously, I suspect you will navigate the pitfalls and create a beautiful model. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Best regards,
Bob
-
Interesting! Were these things really stained dark, or is that another product of orthochromatic film?
-
Hi Mike!
I built an SSW D.III in 72nd scale many years ago from Pegasus (too)short-run kit and is a subject amongst my favourites.
So I will follow you also in this challenge, I'm sure about the high class show I will see.
Roberto
P.S.:...I'm sorry, but I can't believe that one day you will build an OOB kit... 8) 8) 8)
-
Interesting! Were these things really stained dark, or is that another product of orthochromatic film?
They were stained with dark varnish. Here's a shot of the actual aircraft and pilot.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/leim.jpg)
Extract from the Windsock Data file 29:
"It would appear that factory finish on the plywood covered fuselage and fixed tail surfaces was a fairly dark stain coated with a highly glossy clear varnish in a similar fashion
to early Albatros fighters. In the majority of photographs in this book, the stained wood appears so dark that the usual black serials and weight table stencil data is virtually impossible
to distinguish. Metal panels, struts, and cowling were usually left in their natural finish".
-
I'm anxiously awaiting some photos!
-
Hi all,
I've started this model with working on the engine.
My original intention was to replace the kit supplied engine with the excellent resin engine from 'Aviattic'.
However, as I started to build that engine I decided that it was too good to be hidden under an engine cowl, even though the engine cowl on this aircraft exposed more of the engine than most rotary powered aircraft.
Therefore I've built the kit supplied engine, but with one modification, namely replacing the oversized valve push rods.
To do this the push rods were cut away from the engine front casing, which was the cemented onto the engine.
I then drilled 0.6 mm diameter holes into the outer edge of the housing, making sure the pairs of holes were drilled staggered at an angle, as with the actual engine.
Each push rod was made from 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube, which was bent at one end then flattened to represent the valve operating levers.
A sleeve of 0.6 mm diameter brass tube was cut and slid onto the rod. This is to represent the end fitting at the bottom of the push rod.
Each rod was then secured in position using CA adhesive.
The end result is not as good as the 'Aviattic' engine would be, but hoefully is an improvement on the original kit engine.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/eng7.jpg)
-
Looks great Mike! It's amazing how much the new pushrods improve the engine. Very nice.
Best regards,
Bob
-
Looks great Mike! It's amazing how much the new pushrods improve the engine. Very nice.
Best regards,
Bob
I agree completely with Bob!
RAGIII
-
I did the same with my engine Mike, kept the Aviattic engine for display on a Scratch Built wood packing frame for the same reason and built up the Kit Engine which turned out just fine.Great start, I'm going to enjoy this!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Hi all,
I've amended the first post in this thread.
The aircraft I had intended to build was the later D.III version, but that model has been built by quite a few modellers.
So I decided to change to an 'early' D.III, which is a less common build and take up the challenge of incorporating the 'Loon Models' resin conversion.
This will entail replacing the engine cowl and support frame, tail plane/elevator assembly, propeller spinner, wing tips and ailerons.
Lets see how 'easy' this will be,
Mike
-
Sounds like a lot of mods with your trademark surgical precision are on the way Mike. I'm looking forward to this very much!
-
Ooooh and early bird !
Don't see many of them done up . I hope the Loon's model cowl fit's right for you . I have the late version set and the cowl isn't wide enough .
Terri
-
Great looking engine!
-
Ooooh and early bird !
Don't see many of them done up . I hope the Loon's model cowl fit's right for you . I have the late version set and the cowl isn't wide enough .
Terri
Yeah I've read the resin set for the later version has fit problems - Hopefully the earlier set will be less problematic.
Ironically the work I did on the engine will be more or less totally covered by the cowl and spinner - hey-ho,
Mike
-
Some of the earlier version didn't have the spinner ;)
-
Hi all,
The engine is finished now.
The only changes I made (not that you'll see much once installed):
Valve push rods made from 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube with 0.5 mm bases.
Ignition leads from 0.148 mm diameter black mono-filament.
Ignition lead plate at engine rear from 0.5 mm thick plastic card.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/engdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/engdone2.jpg)
-
Looks good, Mike!
-
Outstanding Engine Mike!
RAGIII
-
Your engine fits the bill perfectly :)
Terri
-
Hi all,
Onto the resin conversion set from 'Loon Models' (LO32006) for the early D.III aircraft.
The resin engine cowl is well formed but is so thin in places I can virtually see through it.
Also when offered up to the kit engine bulkhead, the resin cowl outer diameter is undersized, which leaves a step between it and the bulkhead.
As the resin cowl is way to fragile to contemplate modifying it, I chose instead to modify the bulkhead and fuselage halves.
The outer edge of the bulkhead was sanded to match the cowl.
The forward inside ends of the fuselage were scrapped to form a shoulder for the bulkhead to locate.
The end result is the fuselage. bulkhead and resin cowl now align.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowl1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowl2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowl3.jpg)
The next step is to create the cooling slots and apertures in the bottom of the cowl (good thing the set has two cowls!!)
The early production SSW D.III aircraft were fitted with a full, circular cowl around the engine. In addition the propeller was fitted with a large domed spinner. These combined with poor engine lubrication, caused by the use of synthetic ‘Voltol’ oil, caused many engine failures. In an attempt to increase cooling airflow across the engine, some engine cowls had two oval apertures and three slots cut through the bottom/sides of the cowl. Although I could not find photographic evidence of this for the Jasta 15 aircraft of ’Ziegesar’, there is a photograph of the aircraft of Lt.d.R. Alfred Greven of Jasta 12, which clearly shows one of the cooling apertures.
Should be fun,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlcut1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlslots.jpg)
-
Yup same issues with my cowl , I do like your method for setting firewall/engine mount to get all to work . Looking forward on the next update :)
Terri
-
Spectacular engine Mike, looking forward to seeing the cowl fettled and fitted.
-
Hi Mike,
as usual for you high grade of building / re-building also the smallest parts and in depth study of the subject.
"History" of different modification in D.III/D.IV cowlings was not a simple task, I think you're on right way.
Well done!
Roberto
-
Hi all,
I marked the six cooling slots then drilled lines of 0.4 mm diameter holes, followed up with a 0.6 mm diameter drill.
Then using a thin scraper, cut between the holes to form a slit.
Lastly I open out the six cooling slots using a straight edged scalpel blade.
The two cooling holes were created the same way and finally shaped using a round needle file.
To make it easier to handle and to stop the fragile cowl from flexing, I taped the kit engine bulkhead onto the cowl.
The cooling slots should be just three across the bottom of the cowl, but doing that made the cowl way too fragile, so I left resin between the cooling slots for strength.
Now it's onto the resin support frame,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlcut2.jpg)
-
Your cut outs and slots look perfect...what we have come to expect from you 8)
RAGIII
-
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/engdone2.jpg)
You have captured the appearance of a well-used engine nicely there, Mike
Richard
-
Hi all,
Based on other modellers reviews I expected problems with the 'Loon Models' engine support frame, and it didn't disappoint.
The four struts supplied are intended to fit over the front support ring and be long enough to reach the engine bulkhead.
But if you follow the instructions, the struts are too short and don't reach the bulkhead.
Also it's difficult to fit these four struts in their correct positions on the support ring such that they can fit through the cylinders to reach the engine bulkhead.
In the end I located the support ring inside the engine cowl, then fitted the four struts inside the cowl, with the front end contacting the support ring and the other flared ends at the cowl rear edge.
The four struts were then scrapped to reduce their thickness and allow the engine to locate fully into the cowl and support ring.
Now onto modifying the wing tips and ailerons,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlcut3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlcut4.jpg)
-
Beautiful results on your cowl struts and engine placement!
RAGIII
-
Most excellent job on the cowl Mike ;D
Terri
-
Great to see this model on your bench. And very fine refinement of the engine and its cowling. I am sure the following will be even more interesting!
-
Hats off for that precise surgery on eggshell-thin resin. It would break in my hands just by looking at it...
Andreas
-
That looks amazing Mike. Very fine work.
Best,
Bob
-
Hi all,
A bit more progress preparing various parts.
The fuselage halves have bee scraped and sanded to:
Reduce the depth of the panel lines.
Forward side access panel removed for photo-etch replacements.
Air scoops opened up.
Forward vertical panel line removed.
Step at forward panel removed.
The resin spinner has been sorted to fit the kit propeller and spinner back plate.
Both wings have had their wing tips removed and re[laced by the resin early wing tips (pinned to wings).
All four ailerons replaced with resin ailerons (pinned to wings).
I'm now modifying the pilot and ground crew 'grab' handles,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/panels.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/loonspinner3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/bottomtipaileron.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/bottomtipaileron2.jpg)
-
Excellent execution of the conversion using the resin and self made parts. Very inspiring!
RAGIII
-
Great stuff, Mike!
-
Mike I've run out of compliments for your amazing precision and technical skills. Suffice to say I continue to follow your builds with admiration and amazement.
-
Mike,
Thanks for another lesson on how to get things done.
Kevin
-
Really nice work with the resin and mods Mike :)
Terri
-
Hi all,
I've separated the resin elevator from the tail plane and added 0.4 mm rods, to enable the elevator to be animated.
The pilot's and ground crew grab handles were drilled out, reshaped then 0.85 mm styrene rectangular rod added to correct the open shape and correctly locate the handles (which were actually a fuselage longeron).
The forward decking panel was hinged at both sides by continuous hinges located under the cooling jackets for the two machine guns.
These are not moulded on the kit part so have been represented by using 'Aviattic' photo-etch rib tapes.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/loontail2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/grabs2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/deckinghinge2.jpg)
-
Looking good Mike. Thanks for the tip about using the Aviattic photo-etch for the hinges.
Kevin
-
Outstanding work as expected Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The upper wing, as supplied in the basic kit, has a pronounced bow across the thicker, centre section of the wing.
As the underside of the wing in that area has a glossy finish, I can only assume the bow was caused during the injection process.
Unlike resin parts, polystyrene seems to retain a shape 'memory' once moulded, so it can be more difficult to correct distortions without introducing white 'stress' marks in the part.
However I applied heat on both sides of the wing centre section from a hair dryer (on high setting).
The heat was maintained for a few minutes Then the wing was flexed and held in position whilst cooling.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingbow1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingbow2.jpg)
-
Thanks for that tip Mike. This is an amazing build! Well done.
Best regards,
Bob
-
Just catching up. Your modifications and additions are first class as usual and will undoubtedly take this from a kit to a superb model. Heating and gently bending distorted plastic parts is a tricky operation - I do like the idea of using a hair dryer for the operation.
Stephen.
-
Excellent work on removing the warp! One I will have to remember when I eventually do mine! Thanks!!
RAGIII
-
The hair dryer technique is one I shall be be remembering for future use. Good fix.
-
Great stuff, Mike!
-
Hi all,
Earlier Siemens-Schuckert aircraft designs were basically copied from French Nieuport fighters, such as the Nieuport 11.
The method of aileron control used for the Siemens-Schuckert D.III was not the usual cable systems, but was a copy of the French design using control rods from the cockpit to the upper wing.
The pilot’s control column was attached to a torque bar, which was located across the cockpit floor.
The ends of this tube were attached by universal joints to control rods, which were routed up and out of the cockpit forward decking.
The control rods attached to bell crank levers in the upper wing and control rods from these routed outboard to the ailerons.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/aileroncutouts.jpg)
The cockpit to upper wing control rods/bell cranks are represented in the kit, but only to the underside of the upper wing.
Photographs of the aircraft show what appears to be cut outs, which allows the tops of the aileron bell cranks to protrude slightly through the top surface of the upper wing.
These cut outs are represented on the kit wing as recesses on the underside and raised solid moulded rectangles on the top surface.
Also the kit control rod/bell crank part have round rods, whereas the actual rods were flat sided (streamlined).
I drilled out the aileron apertures in the upper wing then scrapped them to the required shape.
The kit aileron control rod/bell cranks were reduced in thickness to more represent the actual parts.
Small squares of 0.85 mm thick plastic card was cemented onto the bell cranks and were then rounded and drilled with a 0.5 mm diameter drill.
Short lengths of 0.5 mm Nickel-Silver tube were cut and secured through the pre-drilled holes.
The modified parts are a snug fit into the wing apertures and will be fitted later in the build,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/aileroncutouts4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/aileroncutouts5.jpg)
-
Your usual amazing attention to detail Mike!
RAGIII
-
Beautiful!
/Fredrik
-
Hi all,
The aircraft had padding protection for the pilot in three areas:
Padding at the front of the cockpit decking.
Padded headrest on the front of the fuselage fairing.
Padding around the centre section cut out in the trailing edge of the upper wing.
The padding on the headrest is moulded on the fairing but is slightly offset and hardly visible. The padding on the upper wing is not represented in the kit.
I added both by using 'Milliput' two part putty.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingpadding3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/headrest2.jpg)
The ‘Brengun’ Siemens Schuckert D.III (BRL32014) photo-etch set has the parts to create a pilot’s seat.
However I chose not to use those parts as photo-etch parts are in some cases too thin to be realistic. The pilot’s seat is such as case.
Therefore I used the photo-etch seat back as a guide to drill out the kit supplied seat, then added a seat cushion made from 'Milliput', as the kit does not supply a cushion.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cushion.jpg)
That's the last modifications at this preparation stage, so now I can start the actual building phase.
Mike
-
The padding and seat looks great! Excellent use for Milliput!
RAGIII
-
Just catching up with this one. The aileron control rods are amazing and I love the milliput padding and seat back. Inspiring stuff as always.
-
I really like the padding at the rear of the upper wing!
-
Great detail work, Mike.
-
Hi all,
The top decking panel has its photo-etch panels fitted (the quarter turn fasteners will be fitted later).
I'd previously fitted photo-etch hinges to the panel, however the 'Brengun' photo-etch panels include these hinges.
Also the tail skid support brackets are fitted.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/PEsidepanels.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/PEtailskid.jpg)
Well, I thought I'd covered all the necessary changes before starting the build.
However I've found other changes that need to be done.
The right fuselage half from the kit has a scooped vent, which was not fitted to the early D.III, so that was removed and filled.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/sidevent.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/filledvent.jpg)
That allowed me to fit the two photo-etch side access panels, which again are different in desin from those fitted to the later D.III.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/PEsidepanels2.jpg)
The kit fuselage halves are missing a panel join at fuselage former E - this needs to be scribbed onto the fuselage halves.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/fusframes.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/grabs2.jpg)
The underside vented panel is different from the later D.III, which had two scooped vents fitted. The early D.II had no vents, but an access panel was fitted.
This means the photo-etch panel supplied with the 'Brengun' set is not correct for this model, so I'll probably modify the kit panel.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/underearly.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/underlate.jpg)
The left fuselage half from the kit has a poorly moulded pilot's foot step, which in reality was a retractable to close off when not in use.
The kit location for the foot step is incorrect as it's too high above the lower wing root. I'll fill this foot step and create a new one.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/footstep1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/footstep2.jpg)
Apart from that it's plain sailing so far!!!
Mike
-
As always your PE and Mods are looking Spectacular. Your attention to detail is second to none!
RAGIII
-
As always Mike,a fascinating and educational build,I'm glad I haven't started on my DIII yet,I'll be able to do a much better job with your "construction manual" to follow.
Cheers,
Dave.
-
Reaallly coming along wonderful Mike :)
Terri
-
Love it!
-
Lovely attention to detail, Mike! This is inspirational stuff! I will be watching closely... Regards, Marc.
-
Hi all,
I've used the kit under panel and opened up the louvre vents and added the panels retaining screw and louvre rivet locations.
Unfortunately the required rectangular access panel needs to be position smack over the join between the rear edge of the panel (when fitted) and forward edge of the lower wing.
Therefore I'll not be able to create that panel until later in the build.
Also filled the original pilot's foot step and created a new one in the correct position.
Finally added the missing panel line at the fuselage former.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/underearly2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/footstep3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/newline.jpg)
-
I am surprised at the excellence of your work.... No Not really, Magnificent as always Mike!
RAGIII
-
Excellent work on the chin Mike :)
Terri
-
Awesome.
Andreas
-
You are certainly nailing down the details. Good references help that greatly!
-
Open louvres look so much better!
-
Hi all,
A few updates for the build.
When I temporarily joined the fuselage halves I found the seat support frame was too short and didn't reach its locations in the fuselage sides.
To correct this I cut the frame cross members and added 1.4 mm diameter tubes to extend the width of the frame.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/seatsupport.jpg)
The 'Brengun' photo-etch side formers and box cover were added - tricky to fit under the cockpit side 'Z' frames and required thinning the frame and filing the photo-etch.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/PEframes.jpg)
The 'Brengun' set has a side panel, the location of which is not clear in the instructions.
However a photo shows where it locates.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/sidepanel.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/sidepanel1.jpg)
The front decking panel and the replacement 'Gaspatch' machine guns were modified to allow the guns to fit the panel.
The kit supplied ammunition feed and ejection chutes were used and pinned through the gun breech block with 0.5 mm diameter rod.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/gunpanelassembly.jpg)
Mike
-
Great stuff, Mike!
-
looking good Mike 8)
Terri
-
Your usual outstanding work Mike!
RAGIII
-
The progress on your model is great to follow, Mike. Excellent work indeed.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Hi all,
I did some research to ascertain the purpose of the rectangular access panel under the early D.III aircraft.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/underearly.jpg)
It seems that the loaded belts of ammunition for both machine guns were stored in the ammunition container fitted under both guns.
The loaded ammunition belts were fed to the gun breech blocks through feed chutes.
The empty ammunition belts were directed from the breech blocks through chutes to box containers, which were fitted to the fuselage sides inside the cockpit.
All of the empty ammunition cases from both weapons were ejected through a tube connected to the lower front of each breech block and from there into a combined ejection pipe which was routed down to the bottom of the fuselage.
On the later D.IV aircraft the cases were discharged out of the aircraft from the ejection pipe opening under the fuselage.
However, in the early D.III aircraft the cases were retained in a container inside the fuselage and to access the container for emptying, the rectangular access panel was fitted under the fuselage.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/newejectorchute.jpg)
Mike
-
Hi all,
Cross bracing wires were fitted between the tops of the rear fuselage cabane struts and the inside of the fuselage.
These wires were attached to a small rectangular frame, located on the top centre of the cockpit front decking panel.
Each of the four separate bracing wires were attached the corners of this frame.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rigging2.jpg)
The model has the rectangular attachment frame moulded solid, which does not represent the actual frame.
The ‘Brengun’ photo-etch set has two frames, either of which (or both) can be used, but attaching them to the decking panel and rigging is not explained.
I removed the pre-moulded lump and drilled two holes of 0.5 mm diameter at approximately 60 degrees, down and through the front decking panel.
Two lines of 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament were passed through 0.4 mm diameter tube, then through the photo-etch frame.
The lines were looped back through the tubes the secured in position with thin CA adhesive.
The following shot shows it test fitted. The frame will be finally fitted later in the build during the rigging phase,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rigging4.jpg)
-
Wow!
-
Wow!
Agreed!
RAGIII
-
I love your detailing !
Terri
-
Hi all,
I really should build models out of the box (OOB).
I followed the instructions for embodying the ‘Loon Models’ resin wing tips for the early version aircraft.
Now I've found that the span of the lower wing is 12 mm too short (6 mm at each wing tip).
As can be seen, when the modified wings are laid onto a correctly resized drawing, the span of the upper wing is correct, but the span of the lower wing is not.
The original kit is for the later D.IV aircraft, the lower wing of which had a slightly shorter span when compared to the upper wing (disregarding the extended balanced ailerons).
So now, having embodied the modifications to both wings, I'm not sure whether the 'Loon Models' instructions for cutting away the kit wing tips are incorrect or the wing span of the original kit supplied lower wing is too short?
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingspan3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingspan2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingspan.jpg)
Anyway, I'll need to cut the lower wing at both sides and along a rib line then pin and pack the wings to the correct span.
This will also mean relocating the lower wing location holes for the outer wing struts.
Mike
-
Mike,
Endless hours of fun!
Enjoy,
Kevin
-
A tape measure can be a dangerous thing.
-
Now that sucks , once correct no one will ever know .
Terri
-
The saving grace is that you noticed the issue before it was too late! I know that with your skills you will solve the issue and no one will know you had to do a correction.
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I think that possibly there are two problems here.
First - The 'Roden' kit represents the later D.IV aircraft, the lower wings of which had a shorter wing span than the upper wing.
That said I think the span of the kits lower wing span is too short.
Secondly - I think 'Loon Models' assumed that the lower wing span of the early D.III and the later D.IV were the same, when in fact the span of the lower wings on the early D.III was wider than those of the later D.IV.
Therefore they created the replacement resin wing tips and ailerons for the early D.III, but based on the later D.IV kit wing.
A more correct replacement would have been to cut the wing outer sections away at the inboard end of the aileron apertures.
Then add the resin wing outer section, but with an extra inboard 6 mm of wing, including the correct aileron aperture.
As it is, you'll still need to add the existing resin wing tips following the 'Loon Model' cutting instructions, as then their resin ailerons will fit correctly.
However, this does mean:
1. To represent the lower wing span correctly you still need to add a 6 mm section into each side of the lower wing to increase its overall span.
2.. The strut attachment locations holes need to be moved inboard by 6 mm.
Mike
-
Looks like some surgery is in order. So pour the surgeon a glass of anesthetic and start to cutting. All filled, sanded, primed and covered in Loz it will be impossible to tell as someone already mentioned.
sp
-
Hi all,
To correct the span of the lower wing:
Wing cut through 30 mm from the wing roots.
Two holes drilled (0.5 mm diameter) into outer wing sections.
Rods (0.5 mm diameter) inserted into holes.
Wings pushed together to indent rods into wing centre section (marks for drilling).
Two holes drilled (0.5 mm diameter) into centre wing section.
Two packs of 6 x 1 mm plastic card cemented together.
Two holes drilled through packs to match rods in the wings.
Packs fitted onto wing rods.
Wing sections and packs aligned then secured together with CA adhesive and liquid cement.
Packs filed and sanded to match the wing profiles.
Wing strut location holes filled and re-drilled 6 mm further inboard.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingspan4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingspan5.jpg)
-
Nice!
-
Masterful stuff Mike.
-
Most excellent on the correction Mike :)
Terri
-
Hi all,
The fuselage is ready to be closed up.
The kits cockpit was modified by the following:
Addition of photo-etch rear bulkhead, fuselage formers, fuel/oil cock control panel and side box containers.
Added tube for spent cartridge chute.
Added cross bracing to fuselage forward area and cockpit floor (0.4 mm tube - 0.12 mm mono-filament).
Added rudder and double elevator control line (0.4 mm tube - 0.08 mm mono-filament).
Added instrument decals (not supplied in the kit).
Added 0.3 mm lead wiring for magneto starter, starter switch and Tachometer drive, twin gun trigger cables and twin throttles (control column.
Replaced kit supplied oil priming pump and oil and fuel cock controls - 0.4 mm tubing.
Added 0.4 mm lead wire for oil priming pump pipe.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/pitdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/pitdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/pitdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/pitdone4.jpg)
-
amazing detail work in the cockpit area, looking forward to seeing this come together
-
It's all looking magnificent Mike!
Cheers,
Dave.
-
This will look fantastic when assembled. Great detail work, Mike.
-
Hi all,
The fuselage right side is now fitted and the rudder and elevator control lines rigged.
Next step is to fit the pilot's seat harness, including the shoulder straps through the rear firewall slots.
Then I can close up the fuselage and fit the seat,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/controllinesdone.jpg)
-
Precise construction, excellent painting, and a very well done wing correction. Just another days work from your talented hands 8)
RAGIII
-
That wing extension work is proof of som serious modelling skills! And it's probably more the fact that you did it than then fact that you could do it. Beautiful painting and detailing as well.
/Fredrik
-
Wonderfully intricate Mike, I've used up all my superlatives on your superb work!
-
Hi all,
The fuselage now closed up, including:
Top decking panel
Underside louvred panel
Engine fire wall
Tail plane
Fuselage head rest fairing
Underside access panel and hinge.
Most joint and seams needed filling and sanding.
Next it's applying primer to check for surface imperfections then on with the build,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/preprime1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/preprime2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/preprime3.jpg)
-
Mike, the cockpit details, wings etc. look fantastic!
RAGIII
-
This is another impressive bit of modeling from your bench Mike. An inspiration to us all. This will be a useful tutorial for future builds of this kit, regardless of early or late version. Thanks for the detail. Very well done!
Best regards,
Bob
-
Wow, looks awesome! Love the interior!
-
Just noticed this build, really interesting and plenty of beautiful updates to a very basic kit.
Following is a great pleasure, thank you for sharing.
Ciao
Giuseppe
-
Hi all,
The fuselage of this aircraft was coloured blue and was applied over what were the original National markings (fuselage and rudder). However, the markings were still visible under the applied blue colour and therefore need to be represented on the model. The colour profile of this aircraft and others from Jasta 15 appear in several books and the profile artist for the one used does state that the over painted markings are speculative and based on previous aircraft flown in Jasta 15.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/faded.jpg)
The following photograph, although of poor quality, shows a large white cross with the black cross at its centre on the fuselage. The rudder seems to show a very faded black cross under the white coloured rudder with the later black cross superimposed.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/plane1.jpg)
The colour profile has the previous rudder marking as the old style ’Cross Pattée’. However, when the photograph is changed to a negative, the marking, although difficult to see, does appear to be more of a standard cross in shape.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/neg1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/neg2.jpg)
Between March and May of 1918, the ’Idflieg’ ordered that the National markings be changed, but initially no dimensions were given and confusion at the various Jasta’s led to a wide
variation in the shape of the new cross markings. The older ’Cross Pattée’ marking was used earlier in WW1 and I personally doubt that this underlying marking would have been on an
aircraft in 1918, especially when you consider that the first production batch of D.III aircraft was placed in March 1918, the same month the ‘Cross Pattée’ was discontinued. Therefore I've chosen to use the later cross shape as the underlying marking on the rudder, rather than the older ’Cross Pattée’.
I'm intending to chip the paintwork on the forward metal panels and engine cowl, so I've applied a base coat of 'Alclad' Duraluminium (ALC-102).
Then a coat of cheap hairspray, as I can't get on with chipping fluids, which I find tend to bead up.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/hairspray1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/hairspray2.jpg)
The figures I chose to use are the pilot and airman from the ‘Aviattic’ - “GötterdÄmmerung” pilot and airman (ATTRES 024)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/figures1.jpg)
Mike
-
Outstanding work Mike :)
Terri
-
Mike,
A pleasure to follow along, I marvel at the quality of detail you apply to all of your projects. The "show through" markings are a touch often missed and when applied will add a lot to the model. Great work thus far!
Cheers,
Lance
-
This is certainly one of your best builds. A difficult kit with so much added!
RAGIII
-
Nice research! I like the figures you've chosen.
-
Hi all,
The base colours of red (engine cowl, propeller spinner and forward fuselage) and blue (fuselage and tail unit) have been applied (both darkened slightly).
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/red1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/red2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/red3.jpg)
The masks were used to create the fuselage and rudder 'over painted markings, which were then airbrush over to give the impression of being over painted.
The fuselage markings will be partially covered by the pilot's personal markings and a decal will be used for the rudder cross.
The fuselage markings are strange looking but based of the photograph I posted earlier (evidence of the confusion the orders of March/May 1918 caused).
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/masksfus1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/masksfus3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/masksfus2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/masksfus4.jpg)
I've 'hair sprayed' an under coat before applying the red, as those areas have metal surfaces that I want to chip slightly.
The overall semi-sheen finish and weathering will be applied once the wing decals have been applied.
Mike
-
Really looking Terrific all around! The difference between the kit lower panels and cowling cutouts and yours really show once painted in the bright colors. The over paint of the crosses looks true to the photos, Well done!
RAGIII
-
Beautiful work Mike, that looks like a perfect finish.
-
Hi all,
Things happen don't they!!
I was sat at my work station holding the fuselage/lower wings assembly when it slipped from my hand.
I quickly snapped my legs together to stop the model from falling to the floor and getting damaged.
Sadly my legs didn't move fast enough and I ended up clamping the model between both legs.
Result - both lower wings snapped at the extension joint and ended up pointing up at at 90 degrees to the wing roots.
As I'd pinned the joints the outer wings didn't snap off completely.
I've now repaired and re-pinned the wings together.
Hey-Ho,
Mike
-
Hi all,
Things happen don't they!!
I was sat at my work station holding the fuselage/lower wings assembly when it slipped from my hand.
I quickly snapped my legs together to stop the model from falling to the floor and getting damaged.
Sadly my legs didn't move fast enough and I ended up clamping the model between both legs.
Result - both lower wings snapped at the extension joint and ended up pointing up at at 90 degrees to the wing roots.
As I'd pinned the joints the outer wings didn't snap off completely.
I've now repaired and re-pinned the wings together.
Hey-Ho,
Mike
Accidents seem to be the thing this week Mike! Glad to hear yours was repairable!
RAGIII
-
Mike
Sorry to hear about your disaster Mike, at least you didn't try to clamp a dropped Xacto between your legs. I have no doubt your repairs will be unnoticeable.
They say bad things happen in threes. Between you, Rick and myself, we have that covered. This seems like an ideal time to add top wings since the quota has been met :-)
sp
-
Mike
Sorry to hear about your disaster Mike, at least you didn't try to clamp a dropped Xacto between your legs. I have no doubt your repairs will be unnoticeable.
They say bad things happen in threes. Between you, Rick and myself, we have that covered. This seems like an ideal time to add top wings since the quota has been met :-)
sp
Sadly it's actually "fours" with this addition. I was doing a last minute dry fit of the just completed cockpit module of that Tamiya Spitfire I've got entered in the Off Topic" Section and yes, dropped it onto a hard floor as well. Broke a longeron and it took me a good half hour to find the gun sight, all's well now but I confess to saying "fooey" (or something similar) several times! :-[ It is indeed a bad week for mishaps!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Seems I'm not alone then - but as I say 'we're modellers' :-\
Mike
-
Every now and then a build will fight me hand tooth and nail and mishap after mishap , then there are ones which go perfectly no mishaps at all Sad to hear that it happen , but in the end no one will notice ...like it never happend .
Terri
-
Hi all,
Applying 1.0 mm wide 5 colour lozenge rib tape decals onto 5 colour lozenge really strains these old eyes.
However I'm getting there as the upper wing and elevator are done now.
I've still to decal the lower wings and the four ailerons,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/ribtapes1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/ribtapes2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/ribtapes3.jpg)
-
Lozenge and Tapes are looking Excellent Mike!
RAGIII
-
Nice job on the decaling Mike :)
Terri
-
Hi all,
Just a small update.
The wing outer 'V' struts were tubular steel covered with a Spruce wood fairing.
The fairings were then covered with the lozenge linen or in some cases, the lozenge pattern was hand painted.
I've used the same 'Aviattic' lozenge decal that used for the rib tapes.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/strutloz3.jpg)
-
Excellent work on covering the struts with decals. Not always easy to get them right!
RAGIII
-
That had to be fiddly. You aced it though.
sp
-
I was sorry to read of the mishap but you have triumphed magnificently. The lozenge looks really beautiful.
-
Hi all,
I don't think I've spent as much time cutting and applying decals to any model, as I have on this one.
The upper wing/ailerons are 45 degree 5 colour lozenge ('Aviattic' ATT32019 underside, ATT32018 top surface).
The lower wings/ailerons and elevator are standard 5 colour lozenge ('Aviattic' ATT32075 underside, ATT32013 top surface).
All rib and edging tapes were cut from 'Aviattic' ATT32073.
National markings and pilots personal markings were from the ‘Pheon’ (32023) Siemens Schuckert D.III decal sheet.
I had the problem of repairing the model after I dropped it during final preparation for applying the decals.
I managed to catch it between my legs, but in the process clamped the wing tips which transformed the D.III into more of a Vought Corsair!!
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/corsair.jpg)
I had to break off the upturned lower wings, clean up, re-pack, re-drill and re-pin then reassemble.
All in all it didn't turn out too bad.
The surfaces are gloss sealed so as not to damage the applied decals. The final finish and weathering will be done later in the build.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/decalsdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/decalsdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/decalsdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/decalsdone4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/decalsdone5.jpg)
-
Very nice recovery Mike. I have much the same repair to do on my Albatros, so you are quite the inspiration.
sp
-
Looks amazing Mike and like SP said nice recovery!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Moving along slowly.
The engine and cowl have been fitted with an 'RB Productions' 9/32nd flat rigging wire used to represent the cowl retaining strap.
Photo-etch quarter turn fasteners have been added to the main panels and wingnut fasteners to the two side and one underside access panels.
Both machine guns are on as well as the fuel tank contents gauge.
Very slight paint weathering was applied (sponged) and a light sheen sealing coat airbrushed to act as the base for dirt weathering.
Before that I need to fit and rig the undercarriage assembly so as to prevent damaging the PE fasteners on the underside access panel on the fuselage.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/lightsheen1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/lightsheen2.jpg)
-
I missed this update until now. The cowling and MGs look amazing and using the flat rigging material for the strap is a Great idea!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The undercarriage is now fitted.
The top of each strut were drilled and rod pinned to fit into holes drilled into the fuselage.
The axle, which was mould rectangular, was re-profiled and the four retaining straps added using lead wire.
Cross bracing using 'Gaspatch' metal turnbuckles and anchors with 0.5 mm diameter tube and 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament.
The steel core bungee suspension cords were represented by 'EZ' Heavy line (White), wrapped and painted with thinned 'Tamiya' Buff (XF57).
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/carriagedone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/carriagedone2.jpg)
-
Looks Beautiful Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The weathering wash of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash has been applied.
This now needs to be damp wiped/brushed to leave the desired weathering,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/washon1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/washon2.jpg)
-
Just getting caught up on the last few up-dates , moving right along really well on this one Mike . Really nice work so far :)
Terri
-
Hi all,
The wash has been removed to leave a weathered coat, then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer.
Also the elevator has been rigged (ailerons and rudder have no external control lines),
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/washdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/washdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/washdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/washdone4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/elevcont1.jpg)
-
As always your lozenge application and the Flory wash turned out Fantastic!
RAGIII
-
Mike
I thought you had ruined a great model when I saw the pics of the wash when you first applied it. Now these shots and it looks so realistic. Great work.
I'm not a huge fan of heavy weathering, but the difference between just applied and finished has me intrigued. I will go search for videos about Flory Models and Alclad. Both products I have never used. If that doesn't solve my curiosity, prepare to be pestered. I'm really enjoying your posts of this build.
sp
-
Here's a video of Phil Flory explaining his clay washes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwBfgaZG4fc
Mike
-
Thanks so much Mike. I had been called to dinner and hadn't started googling yet.
sp
-
Hi all,
The pre-rigging was first added for the cross bracing, flying and landing wires. Mono-filament 0.12 mm diameter and 0.5 mm diameter tube. 'Gaspatch' metal 1?48th scale turnbuckles and anchors.
Underside of the upper wing, top surface of the lower wings, engine cowl and the tension frame for the cross bracing wires of the rear cabane struts.
Then the upper wing was fitted - always a tricky time of the build.
Then next step is to fit the rudder and elevator then complete the full rigging,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/prerig1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/prerig2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/prerig3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/prerig4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/prerig7.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/prerig6.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/wingon.jpg)
-
Coming along beautifully Mike :)
Terri
-
Just catching up. Watching with interest as the this was my site gift a few months back. Very inspiring!!!
Steve
-
Just catching up. Watching with interest as the this was my site gift a few months back. Very inspiring!!!
Steve
If you're building it as intended (the D.IV) the 'Brengun' PE set is a good investment.
If you thinking of converting, as I have, to the earlier D.III, I'd suggest reading my build log which will be posted on my site once the model is finished.
I think 'Loon Models' based their resin conversion set on the assumption that the span of the lower wings was the same as the kit D.IV span, which it wasn't.
The D.III span is wider so the wings need to be increased by around 6 mm each side,
Mike
-
Continuing to impress as always!
RAGIII
-
This looks really cool!!! Very well done!
-
Hi all,
The full rigging has been completed now for the flying, landing wires and the various cross bracing wires.
The elevator has been fitted and its four control lines installed.
Remaining jobs to complete are the aileron control rods in the upper wing, engine cowl retaining plates bracing wires), propeller and its spinner and finally the windscreen.
After that it will be completing the figures and display case/base,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rigdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rigdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rigdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rigdone4.jpg)
-
That looks REALLY good Mike! ;D Very nicely done.
Best regards,
Bob
-
Simply Awesome Mike!
RAGIII
-
Beautiful work Mike :)
Terri
-
Hi all,
Apart from the propeller, which Alex at 'ProperPlane' is attempting to make, the model is complete.
The rudder is fitted.
The windscreen in the kit is just a thin acetate outline, which is not very realistic, so I modified a 'spare' windscreen.
The aileron control rod assemblies, which I modified earlier, were fitted into the cut-outs I made in the upper wing.
Finally the bracing wire at each side of the engine cowl was held in a metal retainer, which I made from spare photo-etch harness buckles.
Until the propeller is fitted I'll carry on painting the two figures and ladder,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/rudderon.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/ailconton1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/ailconton2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlretainplate.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/cowlretainplate1.jpg)
-
That last picture is a photo of the real thing, right ?... right ? :o
Insane quality Mike !
-
Simply Beautiful!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The figures, which the ‘Aviattic’ “GötterdÄmmerung” pilot and airman set (ATTRES 024).
All painted with 'Tamiya' acrylics with metal fitting using 'Mr. Colour' enamels.
The ladder was base coated with 'AK Interactive' Wood wash (AK 263)
'Tamiya' Weathering Master sets A, D and E used for dirt/stains.
Just awaiting the propeller from Alex at 'ProperPlane' and the display case (due tomorrow,
Mike
PS: Is it just me but after I'd finished I thought 'the pilot reminds me of someone'.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/tora.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/figsdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/figsdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/figsdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SSWDIII/figsdone4.jpg)
-
There is a resemblance.
Great detail work all around, Mike.
-
Hi all,
All I need to complete this model now is the wood laminate propeller from 'ProperPlane', which is on it's way.
This propeller profile is slightly different to the kit propeller, which it seems is not quite correct.
As such I'll probably need to re-profile the 'Loon Models' resin spinner I've used, as it is made to fit the kit spinner.
I'll post up photos of the completed model once its complete.
I'd like to thank everyone for their encouragement and comments.
In particular 'Lance', IWIK' and 'Terri' for their previous build threads for the D.IV version, which I referred to often,
Mike
-
Spectacular model Mike! This will be one of the "go-to" threads for those of us building this kit in the future. Your finish and attention to detail make it look like the real thing!
Best regards,
Bob