forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: smperry on March 23, 2020, 03:27:00 PM
-
This resin and PE kit was started years ago and I got as far as the fuselage being closed and painted. With the Shelf of Doom Cookup getting underway over on the WWI Modeling List, I chose this one to finish. I'm posting progress here mainly to get used to working with IMGUR and images. Comments compliments and heckles all welcome.
(http://i.imgur.com/Pf0anjh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Pf0anjh)
Here is the unfinished kit as it has been for at least 10 yrs.
(http://i.imgur.com/XMCLowQ.jpg) (https://imgur.com/XMCLowQ)
The flying surfaces were primed with Tamiya White, painted my own mix of Acrylic/Pledge CDL, masked and sprayed with Testors red and green and finally given a coat of pledge. Upper surfaces still in primer. I'm not attempting any pre-shading on this one. I may try post shading with some watercolor pencil softened with a damp swab.
(http://i.imgur.com/mskAPyV.jpg) (https://imgur.com/mskAPyV)
The rudder decal went all Wicked Witch of the West when I put it in water. So I went to the trouble to paint some clear decal material. The strips just curled right up so I broke down, masked and sprayed the rudder managing to get the green stripe too wide, Remasked and attempted to cover green enamel with white acryl/Pledge.
(http://i.imgur.com/2Ea15vS.jpg) (https://imgur.com/2Ea15vS)
Lo and behold, the white covered the green and it came out better than the decal would have. That thanks to Tamiya yellow tape which I recently discovered. Normally I use Parafilm. Rethinking that now.
(http://i.imgur.com/X99qFTJ.jpg) (https://imgur.com/X99qFTJ)
I found a bit of foam and tore tiny chunks out to make it uneven and then used it to dab green paint all over my nice CDL elevator. The molded hinges got some black paint. I didn't articulate the control surfaces as I didn't want to get bogged down on that and I liked the little hinges which would have been destroyed. After a coat of Pledge, the hinge line will get an oil wash to make it stand out.
(http://i.imgur.com/CqRzvbg.jpg) (https://imgur.com/CqRzvbg)
And this is how it sits for now. More progress after I knock a few things off Momma's Hunny Do list
sp
(http://i.imgur.com/9HcXZiV.jpg) (https://imgur.com/9HcXZiV)
-
excellent work! I love the scheme and how you did the elevators! The acrylic you use for CDL is, I assume, something like Delta Ceramicote?
RAGIII
-
Hi!
First of all, compliments for the courage to build this kind of kit!
I see that you are reproducing SVA 5 11721 from 87a Squadriglia. The original one is still preserved in our Air Force Museum located near Bracciano's lake.
The one in the museum is "late style" SVA 5, with long nosed radiator, while you are modelling the first version, the one that made famous mission over Vienna.
I'm sorry to say now, but in those days central white section on rudder was left CDL, it was normal practice in Ansaldo factory. Like having the black lettering SVA only on port side of rudder. There is an accurate color profile of it on rear cover of Windsock Datafile 40.
I see that the fuselage sides decals missed thin yellow border to roundels too, maybe with thin brush you may add this.
Hope useful!
Roberto
-
RAGIII
Thanks. Yes the CDL is whatever brand of cheap artist's acrylic they sell at Walmart. Cream or ivory I think and I may have lightened it with a little white. Thinned for the airbrush with Pledge.
Roberto
I was hoping you would chime in here, I can definitely fix the rudder, the white covered some green, so I'm sure the CDL will cover white. Just a matter of popping the rudder loose from the stab and masking. There looks like 2 SVA markings on the decal sheet so I will try coating these ancient decals with film and see if I can't get one to work without falling apart. I have no references other than the hand drawn instruction sheet, so is the SVA lettering on the port rudder or port fin? I may have some Italian roundels in the decal stash Hopefully I can find one the right size and play with putting a yellow ring around them, otherwise I may have to live without as my freehand skills are poor. Thanks so much for pointing these things out. I can live with not shading the wing ribs or weathering, but these points are important and I can address them. I recall reading about the Vienna raid and wanted to do that version and now, (Thunk, sound of hand hitting forehead), as I write this, I recall I read it in the big book on Italian aces and their planes which is buried in a stack of books in the corner. I will go dig it out and reread. Thanks again.
sp
-
Roberto
I dug up the book and evidently it wasn't the one where I read about the raid on Vienna. It only had one photo and caption of the machine in question. Port side, but not showing the rudder. It did have a funny looking wing walk over the root of the lower wing. I then did a web search on the raid and found a U tube film made after the raid. Showed more Capronis and Spads than SVAs, although the final shot was a modern color still photo of the machine you mentioned in the museum. That was a starboard side shot and showed a large black numeral 1 on the white fin. It also showed the wood side panels extended forward all the way to the bronze radiator. That will have to be corrected as I had them painted a metal color. I got a kick out of the film as it was silent and someone had dubbed a Mozart tune which played the whole film. This is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OsC755GnjE Fifty thousand leaflets, I wonder what the fine for littering in Vienna was in 1918?
sp
-
Roberto
Which way?
(http://i.imgur.com/n3mPZiW.jpg) (https://imgur.com/n3mPZiW)
The starboard side photo I found of the machine in the museum has a big 1 on the fin and S.V.A. on the fuselage sides ahead of the cockpit with 11721 below it. There are also what appear to be missions and dates in small black lettering in the side of the nose. I'm guessing these may have been added post war. Any comments or advice.
sp
-
Hi!
Hope I'm not in late. Black lettering SVA was applied on rudder, S on green, V on CDL and A on red as I wrote only port side.
11721 had long career before find his home in the museum. After the war, almost all of our single seaters received new treatments for national colors on fin/rudder/tailplane. Stripes were enlarged in space, so for the SVA's green was placed on fin, with rudder divided in two section, of course white and red.
That's why after restoration it sports white central stripe and not CDL.
At the time of the Vienna's flight, no black lettering on nose remembering missions, it was post war feature. 87a Squadriglia was divided in three Section, they were recognizable by different colors on fin and fixed part of tailplane. This is the reason of white fin on 11721. Individual number inside Section was painted on fin, 11721 was, of course, aircraft number 1 in the White Section. There is a photo in Datafile 40 that shows lineup of 87a in the field. 11721 is amongst them, with black 1 on white fixed part of tailplane, unlucky I can't see in what direction. Elevators and upper surface of main wing are comouflaged, upper surface on under wings not. Camo was applied on the field by brushes, not sprayed, it seems a "tangle of worms". I think green only was used for camo, red brown was added later on A.1 Balillas. All struts left factory painted medium grey.
Hope useful!
Roberto
-
Not only is this an interesting build log explaining how you are resusctating an old model, but we get a history lesson thrown in as well by a very well informed member of the forum.
It is what makes this site so special.
Stephen.
-
You sure got that right. One of the reasons I chose this model. If someone knowledgeable is willing to share what they have learned, I'm all ears and very appreciative even when it means doing over something I thought already done. All part of the fun this forum brings, especially in an otherwise not so fun time.
sp
-
Here are the tailfeathers ready to be mounted on the fuselage. Rigging is heat stretched sprue painted with Metalizer steel. Drops of glue and bronze paint are supposed to be turnbuckles. Still in a quandary about possible decals, but they can be added later.
sp
(http://i.imgur.com/Z5JLJfj.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Z5JLJfj)
-
I Love the Old School Sprue and paint rigging and Turnbuckles! My kind of Modeling 8)
RAGIII
-
Hi!
I'm not sure if there are turnbuckles where you put them. In this case, restored 11721 is a good source, there are many photos of it. There also 11777 restored in Trento and here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPKMSChTTUQ) 11720 built as replica.
Bye!
Roberto
-
Roberto
I have no idea why I put them there. Shouldn't they be close to the stabilizer where they are easier to adjust. Doh! No big deal to replace the wires and put the turnbuckles (turnblobs) lower or not at all (gotta go check the photo again)
That SVA you mentioned on the port side of the rudder. Is it painted horizontally across all 3 stripes or is it painted vertically down the middle CDL stripe?
sp
-
The SVA 5 was known as a fairly rugged aircraft, but it simply does not lend itself well to being modeled in resin. The issue is the wing panel attachments. The top wing panels to each other and the lower panels to the fuselage sides. The strength of the steel full size attachments does not translate to 1:48 scale resin. This bodes ill considering my full scale ham handedness. Some kind of reinforcement is in order.
It's Sandbagger Mike to the rescue. Over on his current build thread I asked about wandering drill bits and Mike took the time to explain how he used a very fine scriber to locate and mark with a starter hole exactly where the bit needs to go. So I gently sanded the resin spar ends flat and got out a seldom used scriber and darn if it didn't work perfectly. The brass tube is 0.6 mm and the spar end is about 1mm square in cross section. Thanks again Mike.
(http://i.imgur.com/vwl5u3z.jpg) (https://imgur.com/vwl5u3z)
The upper wing was cast as one piece, but broke almost immediately. I'm thinking the drill and tube treatment might work here too. We shall see.
(http://i.imgur.com/rqBGzHq.jpg) (https://imgur.com/rqBGzHq)
Still excited about making this work...once....5 more to go...
Guess I will relax a bit before having at it again.
sp
-
Like Rick I also like the old fashioned techniques for modelling. I also admire the modern methods that youare using too - in all an excellent build.
Stephen.
-
Thanks Stephen.
I am still struggling to get the basics down pat again, but I am experienced enough to see the value of new, (to me), techniques, which is why I'm not shy to ask questions. There is so much great modeling going on here and so much to learn from so many talented people.
sp
-
Don't see many Spin models being built , they have some neat subjects . So far what you have done is really good work . I really like your wooden tones on the fuselage and I also like the camo effect on the top surfaces . Looking forward to more of your progress . :)
Terri
-
Thanks Terri
I built their Spad A.2 years ago. Spin makes a builder's kit, but they have interesting subjects and build up nicely with some work. The hand drawn instruction sheets leave much to be desired.
sp
(http://i.imgur.com/nxGAzsH.jpg) (https://imgur.com/nxGAzsH)
-
Nice work on the Spad . I sure wouldn't want to be the gunner though ..yikes !
I have only one of their kits ..SSW Dr.1 and yes the hand drawn instructions totally suck , but the resin past are nicely cast with very thin trailing edges . How are the decals in the kits ?
Terri
-
Terri
The decals make the hand drawn instructions look like a WNW instruction booklet in comparison. They are semi transparent completely chatter in water. Three coats of micro Decal Film and they are still so fragile as to be seriously hard to use. One top wing roundel broke and I went into panic mode trying to rescue it while failing to notice it had suckered down where it shouldn't have. Don't waste time on them and find replacements.
sp
(http://i.imgur.com/raSOpxC.jpg) (https://imgur.com/raSOpxC)
-
The SPAD is excellent! The decals must be frustrating. Love how the upper camo is coming out.
RAGIII
-
Thanks for the kind words. Normally I would remove the decals and start over, they are that bad. However this kit has spent over a decade on the SoD and it's getting finished no matter what, so the decals can serve as a Lessons Learned reminder on old kits. Spray decal film first and then try out some of the decals from the sheet that are for another marking scheme before wetting one that goes on the model. And if called on semi transparent decals, I'm claiming the war caused a shortage if titanium in Italy, so their titanium white was thin, Hey, it works for reds on German planes :-)
sp
-
Hi!
SVA on port side of rudder was painted horizontally across all 3 stripes.
I'm sorry for the decal transparency. On orginal SVAs, camo on wing and tailplane was applied on the field, AFTER and around roundels, that were applied in Ansaldo.
If you adopted same system...
Don't worry and camon!
Roberto
-
Thanks Roberto. I thought that the camo on the top wing might have been added post manufacture...Right after I finished daubing green paint over the whole wing. Like I said, I'm slowly reacquiring skills and one of the hardest to regain is thoroughly thinking things through before opening a paint bottle. I sure appreciate all your advice, in spite of the decal problems, it has made for a better model and much more enjoyment while making it.
sp
-
Nice work going on here. Reinforcing the connections using metal pins is definitely the way to go.
-
Thank you Ken. Learning how to do that trick accurately makes this model a success in spite of the decals.
Roberto
Here are the tailfeathers all done, mounted and only slightly ruffled. I failed to check before I started priming resin, but both Stabilizer/elevator and the fin/rudder pieces have slight warps that should have met up with some hot water before they got painted. Mounting and aligning them was ever so much fun and not entirely successful. Live and re-learn I guess.
sp
(http://i.imgur.com/SII7v1k.jpg) (https://imgur.com/SII7v1k)
-
You are moving along nicely SP. The tail rigging in particular looks great. As you know your build has inspired Me to go back to that 11 year old Albatros build that I never finished ;D
RAGIII
-
Rick
After 10 years, it is kind of nice walking by the stash shelf and not seeing that box trying to guilt trip me into dropping everything and finishing it.
sp
-
Hi!
I may only say that trying to build this kind of kit is like trying to catch a chiken with hands only.
The tail is ok, now you have to add same number on tailplane like this:
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1037363)
You may see number 4 on green tailplane of one of the SVAs heading to Vienna over the Alps. Maybe you can try to draw with pencil the black 1s.
In the same photo you may note type of camo on upper wing.
I don't know about your work on cockpit, this is a photo of the dashboard:
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=505250)
Roberto
-
That's good timing Roberto. The top wing is still unmounted and I should be able to dab some more green on to darken it up as your photo shows. I believe my cockpit came out OK. The kit had quite a few parts in both resin and PE, I know there is one large dial and a few smaller ones in the same basic layout. Nice to have a clear photo of the windscreen too. I'll go grab a photo of the cockpit. I may find some decals with a large enough black area that I can cut a numeral for the stab. Twisting it in among the rigging and control wires will be first rate modeling fun for sure :-)
(http://i.imgur.com/Sz83JOE.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Sz83JOE)
(http://i.imgur.com/YtJJ9VM.jpg) (https://imgur.com/YtJJ9VM)
-
Hi!
Good work in the cockpit!
About the windscreen, the one I posted was from the Official Manual, the leather head pad was not so usually installed.
Before the Vienna's Flight, all the pilots posed for official photos, sometimes using one aircraft for all, sometimes using personal mount. This is Aldo Finzi's official photo in the cockpit of 11713. You may note different style of windscreen and Aldis optical sight (I saw this in other official photos on different SVA's).
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1369281)
I choose this one because serial 11713 is near to yours, it's most probably that they had same windscreen style.
Roberto
-
Roberto
Thanks for the photo. I wasn't going to do the forehead pad thing in the cockpit. As a pilot myself, I would have gotten rid of it quickly. The windshield in this most recent photo must be what the master maker had in mind when he created the part for this kit. I need to get the windshield, guns, cabanes and exhaust stacks done and installed today. I'm terrible at remembering to add such details until the top wing goes on and I start kicking myself.
Thanks again for pointing out so many details. You have turned what was almost a chore into an exciting project. While my skills are still rusty, the ole Fun-O-Meter is pegged.
sp
-
SP, I am really enjoying your re introduction to small Non Flying Models! Your interior/IP look fantastic. Keep on going . Your results will be Awesome!
RAGIII
-
I agree with Rick - this is coming on superbly well.
Stephen.
-
Thanks so much y'all. Your encouragement means a lot. I think this is the right time for this model. Social distancing being all the thing it is, this model will require social viewing...no closer than 6 ft. :-)
Seriously, this will become a prized model for me considering all the things I have learned/relearned finishing it, not to mention all the help and encouragement from the folks on this forum.
Now to try and get my eyes uncrossed after drilling out 6 tiny, individual exhaust stacks.
sp
-
(http://i.imgur.com/sfeOkyT.jpg) (https://imgur.com/sfeOkyT)
I darkened up the camo and added the number on the stabilizer as in the photo Roberto posted. Also added guns, cabanes and exhaust stacks. The windshield is frustrating me as it is a poorly formed piece in very flimsy clear plastic. Cutting it out and smoothing the edges is problematic. I think I will give it a break for a day or so. I have paying RC repairs to get done. Maybe the windshield will seem more cooperative after a short break.
sp
-
Hi,
I don't want to be "pedantic", but the "1" was painted on both the fixed part of tailplane. There were four "1" in total.
The exhaust stacks were matt black. I check on the photo of the lineup and 11721 had, right, the "nourrice" on port main wing, but camouflaged as surface.
All the rest is beautiful!
Roberto
-
Looking fantastic. Nice to see a SOD model taking shape!
RAGIII
-
Roberto, you are not being pedantic. I'm being blind and missed the other number hiding in the shadow if the rudder, even had a piece sticking out that I overlooked. Like I don't know to look out for shadows on B&W photos of WWI airplanes. Doh! Well, I can fix that as well as the gravity feed fuel tank. Thanks again, never hesitate to point something out, it's fun to learn and even if my technique is somewhat rusty, I like representing the airplane in question as closely as I can. Your help has on this build has been essential and is most appreciated.
Rick. The SoD Cookup doesn't officially start until April 1st, but I am blatantly cheating since handling all the photos and write ups is taking some time. It wouldn't do to bang the drum and get everyone going, then fail to complete my Shelf of Doom rescue project.
sp
-
Got a couple of paying RC repair jobs done. This far from payday, the money is best turned over to SWMBO. Surprising how few complaints about time "wasted" with models I've been getting :-) Peace has it's price.
Back to the SVA 5. I have been messing with details until they are about as messed with as they need to be and I have nowhere to go but to attach the lower wings with 4 mm dihedral and all there is to hold them in place are the 4 resin nubs, (spars), with the 0.6mm brass tubes.
60 odd years since my first plastic model biplane and I've never used a jig, not that I haven't tried and failed numerous times, just never succeeded. So here we go again. BTW, the "W" style struts are NOT helping matters. I'm thinking hard on how to build a jig. Those who know me would say I am overthinking things as usual. Then the light comes on. I have a magnetic building bench for big flying models. Doh! So between some magnets and a few bits of foamboard I have everything in perfect alignment.
(http://i.imgur.com/UPYMPjB.jpg) (https://imgur.com/UPYMPjB)
The top wing leans to the stbd., so I only needed to prop it up exactly enough to be level. I cut the little foam piece supporting the top wing a tad tall and then sanded it down until the bubble centered. Now I have to this point, placed a tiny drop of thin CA where each lower wing spar meets the fuselage in hopes it would run along the little tube and secure the joint. The top wing contacts the two inverted cabanes. I intend to place a small drop of 5 min epoxy at the apex of each pair of cabane struts and then place the wing on as shown in the photo. My idea is that the epoxy, when mixed with slightly less hardener will cure a bit flexible allowing me to fiddle the struts into the functional looking PE fittings I took great care to locate in the correct places on the wings.
That will happen after a short nap on the heating pad. My bad back can only bend over the bench so long. Stay tuned...I may even pull it off.
sp
-
Clever use of the Magnetic board, magnets and foam SP! This one is going to look awesome when complete!
RAGIII
-
That remains to be seen Rick. I waited a good hour and checked. Perfect, except the struts aren't. They are way too long. I'm done for the day and will deal with the struts when I am fresh and in a better mood. Meanwhile I will go work on a repair job and glare nastily at the pile of struts next to the SVA 5 when I pass by the bench. :-)
sp
-
The darkened camo looks good. As an RC flyer, you know everything needs to be lined up properly or it just won't fly right!
-
Thanks Ken. You got that right about alignments, the laws of aerodynamics have a more precise eye for alignment than any IPMS judge.
Well the over long struts wouldn't let me rest, so I couldn't let them rest. Most of the model has been pretty accurate and I couldn't get over the struts being so off. I decided use some Evergreen strip to fit and fiddle and when that was right, use the length to cut the already painted struts. I was patting my self on the back for that idea while trimming and fitting the strip when I noticed the upper wing has an anhedral droop when looked at LE on. The upper wing panels were molded as one piece with a tubular attachment between the panels for the cabane struts to mount to. That broke and the pieces were glued back together at the only 2 points where the panels attached. This central tube, resin rod, is supported by the cabanes and the heavy wing panels droop. I picked up the model with fingertips under the upper wing tips and the droop disappeared leaving the leading edges of both panels a ruler straight line. I then supported the model by the tips and held a finished strut up to check and it was now the right size. I count that a close call as I was grabbing for the X-Acto to cut a finished strut when I noticed the droop. Now that I know the cause of the strut fitting problem, I decided not to push my luck. I will install the struts later.
sp
Notice the droop?
(http://i.imgur.com/OpAKJl4.jpg) (https://imgur.com/OpAKJl4)
Droop all gone. Struts were not too long, it was the wing gap that was too short.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZU3oH8l.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ZU3oH8l)
-
I am glad you caught the cause of the issue before cutting that strut! It would have been much more difficult to make a New One !
RAGIII
-
I could do with a bit of resin advice here.
I managed to get struts glued in place that hold the wings parallel, (if you don't count the lower wing dihedral), viewed head on. The problem arises when the model is looked at from above. The top wing is about 10 or 12 deg out of line with the lower wing (comparing straight leading edges)
View head on with added struts
(http://i.imgur.com/01pQSz3.jpg) (https://imgur.com/01pQSz3)
I was able to use magnetic jig fixtures to push and hold the upper wing in place. Then I glued in the inboard pair of struts. I know this isn;t going to counteract the twist of the upper wing when the fixtures are removed.
view of Jig fixtures holding wing in correct orientation to lower wing
(http://i.imgur.com/BowgR41.jpg) (https://imgur.com/BowgR41)
Plan view showing how jig holds wing leading edges parallel. Note how twist is countered by one fixture pushing on top wing tip and the other fixture is holding opposite lower wing in place counter to the twist.
(http://i.imgur.com/bivI8FO.jpg) (https://imgur.com/bivI8FO)
Are there any tricks to use with resin so the wings will hold their correct positions. All struts are resin and quite flexible. Would sitting in the jig under warm conditions for a while get the struts to solidify into the new and correct normal? Dunking it in hot water is out, is a hair dryer or Monokote gun too hot? I'm thinking a 40 or 60 watt bulb 8 or 10 inches away might be close. Do the resident resin experts have any thoughts on this?
Thx
sp
-
You are making progress in spite of strut issues! I don't have your answer but am sure someone will!
RAGIII
-
I think this model is getting it's revenge for sitting half done in a box for a decade. I no more than wrote asking for advice on how to get resin to hold a new shape when I figured I could get the rear row of struts attached if I turned the model around, I was hoping that would help make it more rigid. I take the model out of the jig and the twist I was complaining about was just about gone. From over 10 deg off to 1 deg or less. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. I then reversed the jig pieces and set it all up again facing the other way.
If sitting for a little over an hour nearly cured the problem, I will let it sit another 24 and then glue in the back row of struts. That should fix it. (Oops, maybe I shouldn't have said that :-) I had images of sagging, heat softened resin ricocheting around in my head and was not at all sure that top wing twist could be fixed. It seemingly fixed it self. Here's hoping the resin gods were satisfied with my penance or will they extract more revenge for a decade on the Shelf of Doom?
sp
-
Sounds like you work it all out in the end , good for you SP . Resin kits can be tricky . Not all resin is the same , some softer while others are harder . Softer resin struts I will not use . In warm or cold climate will cause warpage over time . So I make new ones either brass tubing with a stell wire core and flatten this in a vice and do any sanding a clean up . One very strong strut . Or I use contrail strut ( plastic or brass ) which is very hard to find . Went under many many years ago . Wish someone would start this up again .
Looks like you got the many area which aids and that is getting the cab struts and wing center . (A) plus . There really isn't much difference between plastic and resin kits . except for one thing . Plastic is easy to replace from over sanding , resin not so much and can be more challenging . Looking forward on how this turns out , keep up the good work !
Terri
-
Hi Steve
Long time no see (from your WW1 Modelling page days)
Wing alignment and struts
Struts
Try bamboo - might be grass but looks like wood, it is rigid, stays straight, shapes well takes a really convincing wooden colour and look and it's as cheap as chips - Just use tooth picks or decent quality skewers that are straight !
Do you remember Robert Karr and his Gotha ? - Bob used bamboo for the struts with a wire core
Works really well and offers much greater strength than plastic or resin material
Method -
We will worry about getting an aerofoil shape later -
First - Use oversized material - It's much easier to sand down to shape than it is to begin with really small material that is close to the finished dimensions !
Next - Split the bamboo in half (or you can plane or sand down your round material to half way - a cabinet/ card scraper works well too )
You will need to create enough length to do a right and left hand side for each strut,
Using a "V" jig to hold the material ( see below) straight and true, razor saw a slot for the wire core length-ways into each half ( this slot should be placed toward the leading edge ! - A line cut into the material with a razor blade helps start the cut and keeps the saw true )
lay in your steel or brass wire and CA/ super glue the two halves back together leaving a bit of wire protruding at both ends to mount into the wings.
Now you can shape the strut,
use the protruding wires at each end as a guide . You want to keep the wire in the middle of the material and close to the leading edge. Don't overdo the sanding the back/ trailing edge or you can expose the wire
It's a bit of a fiddle - you need an opti-visor and a simple V jig to hold the strut so you can razor saw the slot, but it works pretty well and the resulting strut is really strong !
Method 2 - still uses bamboo but instead of a full wire core you just drill wire posts into each end of the strut.
Method 3 - Bamboo again but with a hole drilled length-ways through the strut - I have never attempted this one - If you could pull it off it would be the easiest and strongest way to go, but keeping a fine drill bit steady and true over just 1 - 1.2 " is quite an achievement, even if you do drill into the middle of the strut from both ends ...
The V jig is just a small block of wood around the same size of 12" wooden school kids ruler with a shallow V cut or sanded into it length-ways. This will allow you to hold your material straight and steady while you plane or sand it down and cut the slot.
To cut the V rule a line down the middle of this jig
With a steel ruler and razor blade cut along the centre line at 90 degrees to a depth of around 1 mm
Next move the steel ruler left or right to centre about 1.3 mm and cut again, but this time at 45 degrees back into the centre cut -
do the same on the other side of the centre line cutting back into the centre line
Now remove the waste material you have just freed up to create a very shallow V shaped groove
Use a block of wood with sand paper wrapped around the edge to refine the shape of the groove - Don't over do it The groove should not need to be deep
Bon chance mon brave !
David
-
Hi Dave
The struts on the SVA 5 have little PE fittings that have a pair of ears folded up for each strut in the Vee. So wire inserts wouldn't do here, but plain bamboo planed thin and cut to shape would be much stronger, OTOH the darn thing is so out of square I'm thinking the flexibility of the resin struts is what pulled my bacon out of the fire on this one :-)
Thanks for the recipe on making wire core struts. I am saving it as I am planning to build a Revell 1:28 Spad and the struts you describe sound like just the ticket for that old hunk of plastic.
sp
-
Hi Steve,
It may just be the angles of the pics, but it looks as though the right wing (left as we look at it) is mounted slightly further forward than the left wing and then pushed backwards by the jig to line it up. Looks to me as though the problem is the lower wing mounting points!
I hope that helps.
Ian
-
Ian
That is the likely culprit. the resin stubs were equal, but the brass pin in one of them may have slipped out of the fuselage. Past my ability or desire to fix at this point. You have a keen eye sir :-)
sp