forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on January 03, 2020, 07:48:11 AM
-
With the new year I will reactivate a older project, because I want to feel and smell wood ...
Sopwith Schneider
May be some of you remember my Lebed VII project, finished two years ago. This biplane was a copy of the Sopwith Tabloid and already at this time I thought about building another one, this time as the famous Sopwith Schneider.
At the end of the build report (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8864.0) I created the floats already during a snowy winter day. After that nothing happens ...
This Tabloid with floats and a 100 PS Gnome Monosoupape take part on the Monaco Schneider Trophy, a race about 28 laps with 10km each:
(https://www.kingstonaviation.org/js/plugins/imagemanager/files/100_years_ago/nl035wb_14_04_04_Monaco_Flight_800x534.jpg)
Source: kingstonaviation.org
On April 20th 1914 the pilot Howard Pixton finished aftzer 2 hours 13 seconds with a average speed of 86.78 mph. One cylinder of the engine failed after half of the laps, but with two additional laps he completed 300 km and a world record for sea planes.
(https://www.kingstonaviation.org/js/plugins/imagemanager/files/100_years_ago/nl036we_Sopwith_Schneider_1914_800x445.jpg)
Source: kingstonaviation.org
References:
Windsock Mini Datafile 9 "Sopwith Tabloid"
(https://www.windsockdatafilespecials.co.uk/ekmps/shops/gcreasey/images/sopwith-tabloid-10-p.jpg)
Quelle: windsockdatafilespecials.co.uk
Windsock Datafile 60 "Sopwith Baby" with drawings of the Sopwith Schneider, but the later production version.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51q7FDXOfWL._SX361_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg)
Quelle: amazon.com
I found also different drawings in the internet.
So far for the background.
May be this is interesting for some of you.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Floats
At first I repeat here the steps from two years ago, to have it all at one place.
Cut stripes of plywood. 3 of them are thick enough for one float. At first glued two, drilled bling holes to be filled up with a bad alloy of solder. I want to avoid tail sitter!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HSP5kvzaQ_3-TYVCiCvSfN20xmRF7Xop)
After gluing the last stripe the lead is no more visible. With my small Proxxon disc sander the floats reaches the final form within seconds.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1f1aq8CghDdQmLLRkgABI_sdtDIZ5-8-m)
The sides are also slightly sanded to reach nearly the needed width. After that it was planked with my nice pear wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rWmUA-WLB4bYchwIA4a9EWfjzjN1xogn)
After the dry glue a sanded the veneer carefully to reach the contour.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lyraWsgjdkoxyaGIPDlVVN8utfdskVO5)
For the up and down layer I had to bend the veneer with steam and glue it to the floats.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ddp7Byv0T_OQ6q9dADj4TVgM4Q6YZr0m)
The beading was intended and mentioned the the Datafile drawing. I have to reduce the thickness further and sand the beading to the final size.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HQHZtkf9rOpFySrAAB1cayyU0zP9FIpI)
After painting nothing happens on this ...
But with the new drawings and info now I realized, that some wooden strips for easier ground handling are missing. So I removed the paint and glued very thin veneer strips to the lower surface. I was only able to do it straight with using of some Evergreen strips.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18VUTLo4JKuFeWlc4KSTHai2uxBlcyHH0)
After a bit of sanding I painted the floats again.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1czxSiHRM7Vu6oabzAbZeqKY-tdpSSCEy)
I think that is now a good base to continue ;)
Cheers,
Frank
-
What a lovely pair of floats. And a simply super subject! I really like floatplanes and flying boats - not sure why but there is something attractive about them. I will be following this one with great interest.
Stephen.
-
Lead filled floats? Frank...you're not building a U-boot. ;D
Kidding...looks fabulous. :)
Robin
-
This is going to be fun to follow! Those floats are spectacular!
Cheers,
Bud
-
Very nice wood work Frank , those floats are awesome !
Terri
-
Like the others have said Frank, a wonderful pair of floats. This is a lovely wooden tone achieved here.
Andreas
-
I love a bit of woodwork Frank,
Looks lovely. Could you have kept a natural wooden finish rather than paint? Not a criticism at all - just you can’t beat some natural polished wood!
Great subject..
Guy
-
Thank you Stephen, Robin, Bud, Terri, Andreas and Guy!
And a simply super subject!
I will use a Sopwith Schneider kit from Special Hobby, but the Race version is very different to the later production version of the kit, so I have to change some things and there are no decals offered for my planned aircraft.
Lead filled floats? Frank...you're not building a U-boot. ;D
I hope I have enough in to avoid a tail sitter :-\
Could you have kept a natural wooden finish rather than paint? Not a criticism at all - just you can’t beat some natural polished wood!
I guess this was painted a lot with spar varnish, to make it water proof. I think that look can't be reached with just polishing pear veneer.
Edit: forgot another important reason: natural veneer is very weak and damageable, also my thin airscrews, so at least the wood primer (german product name "Schnellschleifgrund") is needed to stabilize and harden it.
Now I have also birch veneer, but want to avoid to redo the covering work again without knowing in advance, if it will work with birch too ::)
Let me think about it ...
Cheers,
Frank
-
Tail float
Following the above pattern, I glued plywood scraps again and carefully shaped them with the disc sander.
The slanted upper edge results from the fuselage shape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZUFV3uyXex4uu1OFGzCnMfYV95TYZZuA)
On the underside I glued pear veneer and carefully sanded the edge according to the shape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1m-e6Hlst7tTRLQ8UCBsig-oiQ8JoEh5a)
Then I bent a veneer strip over steam and glued it around the float. After drying, sand all overhangs, here the upper side:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15d7cpFvdtmZYuZYg-hbDjtdKgDSHVem_)
And the bottom. Except for the coloring it can stay like this.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PLx13gyqtmPJ6thBMgDz8kJ6UNm-1e9T)
Will look like this. Later I will add a rudder, driven from the yaw rudder.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15i7m1UFZhMPtjnK-GXiyeUNhepP77Cqh)
Again something done (was a bit sceptical, if this heavy bending is possible or not ...).
Cheers,
Frank
-
Nice work, Frank. This will be a really nice model of the Schneider.
-
Incredible start to what is sure to be a Stunning Model!
RAGIII
-
Thank you for your praise in advance Ken and Rick, I hope I can fulfill the expectations ::)
Wings
The kit contains many optional parts, because every Schneider seems to be different.
2 or 4 blade propeller,
Ailerons or wing warping,
different tail units,
another cockpit cover.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19O0xY-1MZGFND6Qx6DnNOGSlbmfY3ep7)
Fortunately I don't need to saw out the ailerons, the Racer had wing warping.
After sanding down the rib tapes I primed the wings white.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-zL_8xCQDzFpaFH2BL3iiUN9Y_UKYpjD)
The real colors of the Schneider Racer are open to speculation. There are some artistic works,
e.g. by Kenneth McDonough
(https://66.media.tumblr.com/20f74619b393cc941f1974827f4ec2a0/tumblr_pq6csc2DDn1u5z9tdo1_1280.jpg)
https://pinturas-gran-guerra-aire.tumblr.com/post/184279178820/1914-sopwith-tabloid-schneider-trophy-kenneth
or here nice sketches http://speedbirds.blogspot.com/2007/09/sopwith-schneider-circa1913.html
(http://speedbirds.free.fr/Board/sop.jpg)
which one can use for orientation. But some things are clear from existing pictures: here are brighter lower ribs.
(http://jn.passieux.free.fr/images/Sopwith_Schneider_2.jpg)
Quelle: jn.passieux.free.fr
Masked and shadowed, from above:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iRwFAabWfyRpvMv8f3VK16GtMThO1454)
and lower side:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kupFFgeuwdWsGVLDxuKNhR9D8gdsgTzz)
Then I painted linen colors, but I was not able to show the real colors on the photos made with artificial light :(
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1umcVkl8t38ds7N3173LDbCMob-cJP0gv)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Wp4-wBaldpCeoM6tbBdTAmLGh006YPNd)
I hope, you got a impression and it will match somehow the original plane.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Hi Frank , nice results with the wings . I like it :)
Terri
-
Thank you Terri!
As I mentioned there are no decals available for the Racer (really pitty, for the 3 kit variants Special Hobby provided decals printed by Cartograf). But a friend jumped in and offered to help - he created masks on his cutting machine :-* Since X-mas I own such cutting machine too, so it is another important reason to finally use the provided masks!
So the racing numbers are applied last night to the wings, using a night camouflage black by MRP:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XcTItA81cKMgaUn186SzHIiXIu8TS_MO)
Thank you very much, Walter!
Cheers,
Frank
-
Looks great Frank. :)
Robin
-
Nice progress, Frank. I am wondering if the very light wing ribs in the one picture are simply how the light is reflecting off the bottom surface of the top wing. The ribs are not visible on the bottom of the bottom wing in the same picture. But, who can tell?
I, too, got a cutting machine for Xmas - a Silhouette Cameo 4, and have made a couple of masks already in frisket paper. My experience so far reveals the design software has some severe limitations when it comes to using photos to make masks, which is a primary reason I got it. I may not be aware of all the software's capabilities, though. So far, I am happy with this new tool, though.
Anyway, you are making great progress on this project.
-
I love the results of your see through wings. Subtle, not overdone!
RAGIII
-
This is really up to your usual standard Frank. The wings and numbers look very good.
Stephen.
-
Fantastic progress Frank. The wings and floats look great.
Andreas
-
Thank you very much, my friends!
I, too, got a cutting machine for Xmas - a Silhouette Cameo 4, and have made a couple of masks already in frisket paper.
Cool! Mine is a Silhouette Portrait 2, which is big enough for me.
You use paper? I got the recommendation to use a foil "Oramask 810" (not the 810S, which uses uses a solvent glue). It is cheap, allows very fine details (better compared to Tamiya tape), and is grey transparent for easier positioning. I got a 5m spool from ebay.
The Oramask is visible right on the wings in my last picture.
My experience so far reveals the design software has some severe limitations
I can't help with that. I don't have a Windows PC but using Linux, so the Silhouette software is useless for me.
There is a open source program for vector graphics Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/), uses the common SVG format.
And for that is a plugin available to talk to the cutter: https://github.com/fablabnbg/inkscape-silhouette
Only Bluetooth is not working, I can pair it with Linux, but the plugin is not yet aware of this connection. The author promised, it will work within a evening, once he got access to a cutting machine with Bluetooth interface ;)
I made some tests after Christmas, it cuts, but I don't have much experience yet.
Anyway, you are making great progress on this project.
Thank you! Eduard is making weekend kits, may be I finish it within a week?
But I don't think so. I made a good progress due to holiday, tomorrow is here a public holiday, but this is my last free day - so the progress will be much slower.
Cheers,
Frank
-
I don't know what the best media is for cutting masks for our application, but the photo frisket paper is a very thin plastic film of some sort that has an adhesive layer and a paper backing. It is used most frequently for masking on air brushed pictures and is available in most artist supply shops.
I made masks for the number '75' here. I took an image of the plane and was able to lift the '75' from it using the Silhouette software. The quality of the results depends on how clear the original photo is.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fdQv0Hk/Bucker-131-12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The cutter can follow some very jagged lines - sometimes that's not what I want it to do. If you have good results with the Oramask 810, I may have to try some.
-
Cockpit
For the race the Tabloid get a wider fuselage for the bigger 100 h.p. engine, so I tried to fix it with Evergreen:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DUQzNpcQO2otQl8T7MvS_a3BGBn5Shuv)
Sanded to the new layout:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_Gc_GUTQH-jtEejZFaL9zVUCOkBIUULc)
Then I removed the details inside, als on my Lebed. Same floor and dashboard included in kit.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1R7H4k-dyhqcbF6HNM7DMeDRqezwAeQ5G)
A new wooden seat:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19qwSzVmZAjT2sScKpBDkzTtI8XmlcGC1)
And a new 0.7mm thick wooden steering wheel. The self made "PE" is nickel silver, my first try with brass failed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MniVpQa3RR4dVCInmCKbe5dnOvD7tLv2)
Wooden primer improves the look:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1i4Fbui1r5n47X7XNOaWNZPCcwf2nKuE4)
Same for the mounted steering wheel:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fviynkrXL-ezMomaOyhXbJN7IO11Hjg1)
Readded internal details according sketches using real wood, after alu and linen paint:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1swgi7OYzrYpz1s300KfuPUSNhUbQYxtU)
Internal rigging created with 0.1mm nickel silver + 0.3mm brass pipes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cm-v0N4l-u5jTfkk_CJbuoIl240dcdqz)
Important detail: a wooden floor!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VWxB1xUrqPZe8uPd1y9t8ypKevcr9-NN)
Looks again better with some paint, with 0.5mm veneer less layers compared to the sketch:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Zz3ccm1SE51_MlUssFgI-OtUyck6ZFOS)
Will later look like this:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WsTKXHnB2421w2O57g2sRe46TQxnbWJ-)
The dashboard is finished too, after I found a Tabloid picture showing a part of the dashboard (the one in Hendon is empty :( )
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VTnzKnP_0PeZueXb0r1GhiivM2xAh3DU)
This was a huge amount of work. Comparable to my Lebed built, but I tried to improve in some areas.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Terrific progress on the wooden parts Frank , shaping up nicely so far .
Terri
-
Regarding the cockpit floor:
"Looks again better with some paint, with 0.5mm veneer less layers compared to the sketch:"
The sketch could be wrong ;D
Nice wood work. Once again your mastery of detail is showing through.
-
The floor looks great Frank, as in so many cases using the actual material works better then trying to replicate it with something else. This is already looking like another winner from your talented hands!
Cheers,
Lance
-
I agree with Lance: the natural materials look so much better than trying to paint plastic etc. This is a real treat to follow - so much skill on display here.
Stephen.
-
Thank you Terri, Ken, Lance and Stephen!
Regarding the cockpit floor:
"Looks again better with some paint, with 0.5mm veneer less layers compared to the sketch:"
The sketch could be wrong ;D
Now that you mention it, why didn't I think of that? ;D
This is already looking like another winner
And I really like the fact, that this is not available as kit with decals, so this aircraft is not seen often 8)
Really pitty, that again so much wooden details are hidden, once the fuselage is closed (I hope, that this can be done soon).
Cheers,
Frank
-
Exceptional work on your model Frank - your woodworking skills are amazing! Great pictures.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thank you Gary!
One step more ...
Engine
Luckily the needed engine type is available from Small Stuff (and my stash - I own all types :) )
Here the first 10 parts of the "Gnome Monosoupape 9B-2 (100 hp)" rotary are glued and 36 parts (+ spares!) are painted:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1o555QVSMEHOMocQS_vZ4WmYiWdsvgwCH)
All 46 kit parts in place. Ignition wires and oil wash will be done later with mounting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UQ-DPlHX016AEG-pNuN_QqO9ocND_4i8)
I have shown that more detailed in my older build reports, so here only the result (I strongly suggest to follow the extended manual of the manufacturer of that kits, link in every package).
Again one important step done.
Cheers,
Frank
PS: I could just about hold back from installing the ninth cylinder unused and fresh ;D (see first post)
-
Spectacular, to say the least. Everything you touch is turned in gold.
-
Spectacular, to say the least. Everything you touch is turned in gold.
... to which nothing I can add except follow along in awe :)
-
Wonderful woodwork, spectacular engine.
In the middle of all this nice stuff, your one euro cent coin looks a bit sad. It deserves a little polish by now. :(
Robin :)
-
Outstanding interior work! The engine is magnificent!
RAGIII
-
Thank you all for such encouraged words!
Everything you touch is turned in gold.
That's high praise! (https://www.modellboard.net/Smileys/Modellboard/meister.gif) I'm speechless! Now I need a red face smily :-[
In the middle of all this nice stuff, your one euro cent coin looks a bit sad. It deserves a little polish by now. :(
Exactly this piece of cent has a black dot of weathering - this is a reminder of the broken bottle of black Alclad primer during the creation of my Fokker as part of the Group Build - this black paint was everywhere! So I'm a bit sentimental - but you are right, I should replace it against a fresh one.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Another masterpiece on its way. Great work till now, waiting for next updates.
Ciao
Giuseppe
-
Genial ! :)
Terri
-
Thank you Giuseppe and Terri!
waiting for next updates.
Here it comes:
Closed!
... not the build report, just the fuselage - not yet, soon.
A wooden part was still missing, or was only glued crosswise in two layers. Now holes were drilled and the board painted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1u_c1GwP0znA0UYDTFYuJMucJ1ahiDrqz)
To improve the illusion, I thinned out the holes from behind with ball cutters.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1G01R-3iwEdrWp0fYM08akMWNcoacN2hQ)
Some metal is also missing, steering wheel holder and pedals, here in raw form soldered from brass tubes of different thickness and wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EQGPdqcu0fFanm_43dNPIbbfUW5XhfmV)
After cleaning and tinning I call it done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ifpmaQTYm1wWPQ5Uua_xzTbzGmMziDlh)
Before glueing the halves some washing with oil paint, a last look. The rest I built in "endoscopically" from front and top.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1t5FtLAr2m8aJRt9ezPMZkXcVVHFgqZiH)
But now: the thing is closed! In the back I made some space for the tailplane.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rnat5B6X0X_mDLENLoVnhhBoFSEPj81w)
The front was also made to fit with Evergreen, also a brass bearing bush was turned for the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yznxD1MHcMQ6MCUP7RCiX-Xb-0r8lCDp)
The elevator was cut off and already fitted with new hinges, at the moment just plugged in.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1msFZmk_WsFvtePNLBg1Qyh-oT3fSD5Ny)
The aluminum cover is glued to the fuselage, already riveted in the rear part. The moulded rivets on the sides had to go away.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AtbF9ihHQG_rgP8Up2p3dip43ZRg8FPu)
To adjust the float struts I glued the floats with UHU Tac on cardboard, so I can adjust the lengths well. The fuselage is carried already by the two brass pins of the rear struts - so assembling later is fun!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Z-rF7vaET9_Sjy519FfWHeKr1IdG4J5F)
The aluminum side plates and the engine cowling will be one hell of a fiddle, but the engine should have room.
Cheers,
Frank
-
All pretty awesome and a handful of bonus points for the polished coin! ;D
Robin :)
-
Superb modelling, Frank! ;)
This will be a show stopper :o
vB
-
Damn Fine Modeling as always! Love the details and the upper cowling is Awesome!
RAGIII
-
Yup , the devil is in the details ! :)
Terri
-
This is another fascinating build Frank,I'm constantly impressed and learning by your approach to construction issues.
Dave.
-
Increasingly amazing!
Ciao
Giuseppe
-
Wow Frank, what an incredible work on this plane!
-
Wow, thank you very much my friends for such kind words. Highly appreciated!
I hope to be able to show the next prank soon :)
Cheers,
Frank
-
Awesome!
-
Your „pranks“ look amazing as usual, Frank. It’s great to see you working on this here.
Andreas
-
Nice work on the metal parts. I am interested to see how you tackle the engine cowling.
-
Thank you Jeroen, Andreas and Ken!
I am interested to see how you tackle the engine cowling.
Ken, me too - believe me, me too!
I have done it for my Lebed, but at the end I used the first prototype, because I was not able to do it better, or even get the result of the first one ???
This is the one I have created more then 2 years ago and mounted on the model:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rVYJezW0EtnpkvQLAx_iBDeOa0V4HWGI)
That worries me a little bit now ...
On the other hand, I try not to be intimidated by the many things that lie ahead. I try to solve the problems one by one when the time comes 8)
Have a nice weekend,
Frank
-
Fittings
After the last time everything was only plugged together, I glued the cross struts with the floats, in addition the paint had to cleaned again.
Then I would actually need etched parts, but there are none. But a modeler can do it himself!
Brass sheet angled and a 0.33mm hole flat in the corner to solder 0.33mm nickel silver into it. Cut and file into shape and added four 0,2mm holes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jGHp-9ziVaR-zd1BGLSHZ7gPuYCSgHOT)
Finish the floats with some [/i]Clear Yellow[/i] and clear lacquer to make it look like boat lacquer and then mounted the eight holders.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-jfE2oE908Y5GqdjGIyy666aTtl29l7N)
For this purpose four 0.2mm drillings each and "bolted" with 0.2mm nickel silver wire.
This is one of the front brackets, they are shaped diagonally to better absorb the forces of the front struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1R7Wgr52XAxfBQsiIOXsyTMTA6Q4Co_3U)
And finally a look sideways/down, that's how the floats stay now!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18qgjW5xBDCdhf15khd7V5X0V6RVTwfFF)
That was a real fiddling, but it is nearly close to the original:
(https://www.kingstonaviation.org/js/plugins/imagemanager/files/100_years_ago/nl036wh_058_1914_Tabloid_Schneider_Cup_Monaco004_800x505.jpg)
Because it is not all perfect it looks like manual work. The reason for the blotches in the varnish are penetrated water!
Now I have to cover the fuselage further with aluminum ...
Cheers,
Frank
-
Incredible work, Frank - thanks for sharing.
Cheers,
Gary
-
I agree with Gary - that is truly incredible work Frank. It may look hand-made (because it is of course), but I really wonder how many other modellers would add those brackets to the floats, and then make as good a job of them as you have done?
Stephen.
-
Stunning details as always Frank! It doesn't get any better than what you add to these kits!
RAGIII
-
Thank you Gary, Stephen and Rick!
but I really wonder how many other modellers would add those brackets to the floats
You mean nobody's that crazy but me? ;D
Cheers,
Frank
-
Aluminium
As announced I have been working on the aluminium coating of the fuselage.
First the engine wall and the underside were modified and coated in one piece, that was somehow easy.
Then I prepared the two sides and crimped them at the front for stabilization.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fkopKMiQGcM6Y18leM7HnaYHKy9aHats)
According the frame of the original, I glued strips bent under steam into the edges, also worked on the inside surface.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12BrUHX8ogDGfoclAauR3-uO4dkzCLk_C)
In order to be able to work on the surface of the outside without the sheet metal bending through, I shaped a plywood residue with the disc sander.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tc0qTUPTHLRwR6l8nng-6EQhfV8_PZlY)
Then I could glue on the side plates and add more wooden strips.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dXvXKK9ySPPBkoiSpzVT3KsSHb_5gUUf)
The 9-cylinder fits in and can turn freely!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13clx-1v5xs_UqQO4Z0wmw7a7VFammhUY)
Another view from below, that remains open.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16abo4BihqN4EeHMH6P1jxoNpO83zneTB)
Between the valve and the outer wall is only little space, but nothing touches.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1f6a7WSkdWosb_igWdWLOhzTJKdUbhm4Q)
I started also the work on the airscrew but until now only a raw shape.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nORndYFXNr4iiqTbohQ0RBo3SAap2-hD)
Now I have to take care of the front bearing, before I "riveted" the side plates, so that the "ears" are further stabilized.
Cheers,
Frank
-
I don't know what to say! Just Incredible Metal working! Lovely!
RAGIII
-
Again I agree with Rick: just amazing craftsmanship.
Stephen.
-
I continue to follow your work with my mouth always on the ground!
Outstanding work.
Roberto
-
Outstanding Frank :)
Terri
-
Lovely panel beating, Frank!
Marvellous :o
vB
-
Outstanding metal work, Frank. I'm enjoying following along.
-
Hello Frank,
please excuse my late comment.
I always think that you have now reached the point where things don't get better. But every time, you show us better and better details and even more filigree work. Please keep it up, you always amaze us!
Bye,
Manni
-
Almost shiny enough to blind us both figuratively and literally! 8)
/Fredrik
-
Great project, and greatly executed. I am watching with a lot of interest.
-
Wow, what a overwhelming from all of you! Thank you very much!
The best way to say thank you is a new update :D
Front bearing
During build of the Lebed a friend and me tried to find out the details of the front bearing of the engine, but we failed to get the big picture.
The bearing of the later Schneider and Tabloid is known from this picture, there is an etched part in the kit for that.
(https://www.kingstonaviation.org/js/plugins/imagemanager/files/100_years_ago_1915/nl110_Sigrist_040_100hp_Monosaupape_Gnome_Rotary_1915_-_Copy_800x596.jpg)
Source: kingstonaviation.org
Except that it was not wide enough due to the larger engine, the early machines had a different bearing.
This is clearly visible on this picture (if you zoom in), the flat front part is missing!
(https://www.kingstonaviation.org/js/plugins/imagemanager/files/100_years_ago_1915/nl084wg_Sopwith_Tabloid_Schneider_Winner_Monaco_Phil_Jarrett_800x510_-_Copy.jpg)
Source: kingstonaviation.org
And then I found this picture of a replica on the net, now everything fits together!
(https://farm8.static.flickr.com/7334/12933469384_c7115ebec1_b.jpg)
Source: https://hiveminer.com/Tags/schneider%2Cseaplane/Timeline via flickr.com
I can't get a metal sheet in this form, but maybe in two steps?
A 4mm brass strip angled and slit to bend it open in the middle. A 4mm drill shaft now fits through.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jLvDtGEa31dTZX57LnmZoOivBpBx8XmG)
As it gets quite fragile, some steel helps with the alignment during file the front.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uJwL-Eu74QYS1uTFHU3VNJVUIMzBdVYS)
Another plate soldered to the front brings stability, then the hole for the bearing is made. The slots are milled, unfortunately I ruined one slot, the side will end up under the hood.
I turned the actual bearing. Unfortunately my Proxxon divider does not run smoothly!!!, the result is visible on the right part.
So again new, turned a little bit smaller, the left bearing. This time I tried to compensate the error of the divider.
And, since the lathe was just in use, a brass fuel tank nozzle underneath.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JsZ-Ur25fMdCo1FWX5F33HxecvyrZ25M)
Bearing holder tinned and the bearing slightly burnished. Here you can see it on the side, it's thin like an etched part.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zT7DJf-_I7E_aI0YXyFu-Y5Gt9PUj1ET)
The bearing lays on top:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pVDh6ShCL2yLVTkGXPr-2lhXzh0RgQpI)
The holder is fixed on the model. But I will glue the bearing later when I mount the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iQA_dd_jD3F2qS5OvvJDl17uQgNlIjE6)
This time the research take longer compared to the bench time, but I think I like the result.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Great stuff Frank!
Kent
-
In this size, even the slightest misalignment is noticeable. You're doing a great job on these parts. I would have hesitated to attempt it!
-
Excellent engineering!!
Steve
-
Outstanding work Frank, details I couldn't even come close to in 1:32 Scale! There seems no limit to what you can do in metal, keep it going as there's so much to be learned from your efforts here and it's such a pleasure to follow your work!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Frank, it‘s time that the Swiss watchmakers officially receive you as an honorary member of their guild.
Congratulations on another beautiful and perfect modeling idea.
Andreas
-
I don’t know how i missed this wonderful build before...
you are a master modeller indeed, and it is tournig out to be a n owesome plane!
thank you for sharing! very inspiring!
ciao
edo
-
Details in 1/48th I wouldn't even attempt in 1/32nd...If I even saw them :o WELL DONE!
RAGIII
-
Wow my friends, again such great and motivation feedback! Thank you all!
In this size, even the slightest misalignment is noticeable.
Ken, are you a clairvoyant?
I spend a lot of time to fix those misalignments after the creation of parts!
There seems no limit to what you can do in metal
Lance, beside my wood work I really like to scratch with metal, but I still have to learn a lot of things, especially on lathe.
Frank, it‘s time that the Swiss watchmakers officially receive you as an honorary member of their guild.
Congratulations on another beautiful and perfect modeling idea.
;D
But this is again far from perfect! But I take typically pictures of the (we have a beautiful german word:) "Schokoladenseite", means something like the sweetest side. 8)
Again, thank you all!
The next update will follow soon.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Cowling
A raw form of the propeller I had shown further ahead, now it is sanded in shape, primed and varnished.
Compared to the original it is still too bright, brass protection against the water drops are also missing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Z2VCKrRkACAvPnvWpn7E1gD72ZevTXC3)
Some struts for the wings were also necessary, here after rough sanding. No, this will not be a 1 1/2 Strutter, that one comes later ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HRZvx_UBAxIRQKnG116Kk6X-hw8LLB0b)
Primed and painted it looks better.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yGgkzZZt7f51IeWkRR56ErWJCLPEkl6X)
I worked on the sides, the openings for the wings were to be opened again and more rivets were added, but some are still missing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XMYHN_inF_FX1pitek6eoMS7ODCYLyxB)
The other side, the fuel nozzle is also installed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LVBZw8jV8j_wH-oqouKzcDyLHj20y_QI)
For the cowling I experimented a lot, different sheet thicknesses etc. Left down is nearly usable, but cracked.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15ANo89WgXRjjMXdvph8h9i7_e4MGENxU)
From soft 0,15mm "stamping foil" I have stamped this hood. On the right my most important tool.
Ok, I drilled the extra cooling holes, but I don't dare to cut the long thin slit of the original ::)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13EpocAQWf-bdFFNbQYool42BecP-k6mA)
I think it will have to stay like this, just put on loosely.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_J-47xeJgkqYhr3rhQiSBUMPDrndpaWf)
I also took care of the tail, e.g. I glued brass tubes as control cable outlet.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13c5oGjcwRujj_3xkAEivBe4jRLpZy8rS)
The racer also needs a bigger rudder. The control of the rudder at the float have to be added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RorH_TH5Jb0rrEyWy5srvAbefcBv5_GP)
Some small steps are done, but there is still enough to do ...
Cheers,
Frank
-
Some challenges along the way with the cowl , but she does look really good in place . Engine bearing come out awesome , nicely done sir !
Terri
-
Inspiring work on the cowling..
Kent
-
Outstanding work on the cowl Frank!
RAGIII
-
Regarding your comment, I'm not clairvoyant - just been there, done that.
Your cowling is coming along very well. Nice wood work on the prop and struts, too!
-
As usual Frank your wood and metal work is just stunning. As others have written, you are making things that many of us would not even think of making, let alone try!
Stephen.
-
Thank you very much for your kind words!
Lettering
It's been a long time since I've been here ::)
In the meantime I continued working on the race plane.
The scratched rudder still got ribbons and is now ready for painting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1q6r4MlO2YLuNzxoMC3Ypf1kep4UTbxJf)
The fuselage and the tail unit I have primed white:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10jMiMtNe4I5SGXLrxHbN-Wgjb53_9-Z7)
After painting in a linen shade I painted the lettering with the masks provided by a friend.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WmiOD7XZvQ2--j30zKVeUULW6ct04QuM)
What can I say? I did not like it, because my template was not correct :(
The problem was also a cheerful mix of different times. After the race in Monaco, the biplane was converted to wheels and was freshly covered. The "Sopwith" lettering looked different after that.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cN8QgI5Ol7Hv4VkHuaUZS0o__rwoUNf-)
So paint removed (the Alclad primer was strong enough) and first of all a seam from an etched part was added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AR6wE7iQoMpbUkj9TPcBqgLAPTwZdunp)
Then I familiarized myself into the vector drawing program Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org) - great tool!
I prefer a generic program instead of some special programs e.g. for cutting plotters, the know-how can be used more widely, is not dependent on any updates by a mnafacturer and Inkscape runs on my Linux computer.
With the help of original pictures I redraw and cut the masks.
This is how it stays now, here the left side:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UGD93BgxxCTeowrcf37yti9Tdwt0SWhM)
And right:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13SAXqf6wBLekuwHmehlxwyX7RvZzTQQK)
At the tail I added floats, water rudder and struts to the elevator.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18kd7_dMqV0sKESFRs4qxmx-GStV507Mf)
For the water rudder I soldered a sheet metal plate into a slotted brass tube and soldered the reinforcements.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=131Cb1PWwVGK2F1lvYD1I4m-Vun5qLdIg)
Elevator and rudder have received their linkages.
Except for a few fittings the tail is now finished.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Tl4VImPPKdbjkRY0ck7RBD6kqzP6WnZ6)
And here the struts are on the fuselage and the fuselage on the floats for fitting test, that's how it will look like.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FHUw-C6--xZVgTWSGS2b0zlF-17zGtEx)
It doesn't look like much progress, but it was a lot of work.
Cheers,
Frank
-
The painting, markings, rudder and float rudder came out great Frank! The model looks terrific on the floats!
RAGIII
-
Schone Arbeit Frank :)
Terri
-
Great work! Nice to see your new machine put to work.
/Fredrik
-
Brilliant work, Frank, well done indeed!
Cheers
Ondra
-
Fantastic work, Frank, really brilliant! And it IS visible, that it was quite an amount of work.
Andreas
-
I think your progress is quite significant! One can now see the final product coming.
-
"It doesn't look like much progress, but it was a lot of work."
Frank I thought that we Brits were supposed to be the masters of understatement. Now you Germans are at it too....!
The model looks sooo realistic with all the additions and extra details. The tail float is especially appealing. Another winner in the making.
Stephen.
-
Very nice process. The results are amazing!!
Steve
-
Thank you very mach my friends! All your comments are highly appreciated!
Andreas, see you in FFB end of the month? This bird will be there, me too ;)
After a very productive weekend I have to prepare the next update ...
Cheers,
Frank
-
Rigging
The cockpit opening got a lacing (etched part) and leather paint:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EAthRg_wiZJRxq-7liFcX_rOnJ2NQORV)
For the warp control above I had turned pulleys on my Lebed, but that was a bit out-of-scale. So this time I soldered a new, more filigree construction:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wmxhBSW-77EyRftUkTD9PIVg3-IUummV)
Here the two parts are neatly arranged with many other small metal parts, most of them 0.07mm thick. This corresponds to 3.4mm fittings in real, I think that is ok.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19ROytWM-WtLtAYWh3nXn828MOeDjretP)
The long struts also got some metal:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BbkwovvAST7OX9xWcZRVDKWVMk-G8zie)
The rear struts are shortened by the length of the mechanism, and mounted with the fittings. Note also the socket.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ebuiYwxBcy788ApFfTnQGXqBtxoX6nFV)
The missing brackets on the rear float mentioned last time are also attached:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1x0xkhz5aDzb28dDIa-ufTOkuwXjY1c6a)
And here we go with the rigging!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uiZJdlvhmDj5p0GHR-XAfFL37QXUjiua)
The fuselage struts are rigged.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VaP95nm0BnZ7gvBIbfokywDUhO63Yfxq)
The upper wing was put on and the double ropes ("Flying Wires") were pulled in. This way I can get even better access.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_WJ7jg40vAM1LHy9lpNsTmQM9FlLnmIw)
Afterwards the lower wings could be mounted, the struts glued in and the other wires ("Landing Wires") pulled in. It's very nice that this bird is controlled by wing warping, so that the crossover of the struts and the ailerons are not necessary ;)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_uPDwhSBkiHm3ke4G8Zo4hYndrSeGrNV)
The rear cable runs through the mechanics at the top and pulls the other side with it when warped.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1geo__kSAEthHsNfT08xlmwwHB4dCjqwb)
When I tried to mount the floats, one of the struts broke off. This happens, but can be replaced quickly.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XnoAJGg3wFYpt-TNCNJL5AAjjTg99dxS)
And then I took some daylight pictures on the balcony.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Cl8IiUIs6NDRe-N6HS1AxtPEBwA98z7X)
The crossings of the tension rope in the floats are still missing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1O2927i1XUJwfbHq4SOHITHlaqpyyl5N2)
Good preparation paid off again, the assembly was really fun!
Cheers,
Frank
-
She looks spectacular, Frank!
Well done!! :o :o
von B
-
Super job on the details for the struts , nice clean work .
Terri
-
Lost for words... Truly amazing!
/Fredrik
-
Amazing colour change in the sunlight!! Great work. I like the top wing first approach. I would not have thought of that but looking at it, it makes sooo much sense for accessibility!!
Steve
-
I like your detailing on the ends of the struts and cabanes. I plan to try something like what you have done on my Tommy.
I see this plane did not have the cross bracing wires on the wing struts - less rigging to do!
-
Superb detailing on the struts! Looks awesome with your excellent rigging!
RAGIII
-
It is so good to read all the nice comments from you :) Thank you very much!
Amazing colour change in the sunlight!!
Or more my problem to handle the white balance in camera and during editing correctly ::)
I like the top wing first approach. I would not have thought of that but looking at it, it makes sooo much sense for accessibility!!
Oh yes Steve, that is called experience from my Lebed project, which is virtually the same kit.
Experience: the knowledge that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. 8)
I like your detailing on the ends of the struts and cabanes. I plan to try something like what you have done on my Tommy.
Ken, even the kit plastic struts show some thickening at the ends.
I see this plane did not have the cross bracing wires on the wing struts - less rigging to do!
With that wires added the wing warping would not be possible!
According to the Windsock Datafile 60 the later serial Schneider seaplane with ailerons did have the cross bracing wires, so checking the references on this often modified biplanes is very helpful.
Due to a storm (the same which caused yesterday a 747 Jumbo fly supersonic - New York to London in 4h 56min, max speed of 1328km/h !!!) the public life was lame here, no trains, schools closed, highways closed ... So I called my boss, stayed at home and continued the work on the racing biplane :D
The next update follows soon!
Cheers,
Frank
-
„Administrador viejo!“ like the Spanish say, „Alter Verwalter.“ you don‘t stop to impress me. Those struts are masterpieces, as is the whole plane. I can’t wait seeing it at FFB!
Andreas
-
You have given me some ideas for a project that I have in mind for the future - possible answers to problems.
Simply wunderbar Frank: words fail to express my respect for your modelling skills.
Stephen.
-
Thank you very much!
The promised update:
Decals
This is a build report - here I am about to rig the floats.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1M7I_iT5fyxOyUMio56Czviu7LWNgfqGE)
Further pulling with threads - here I added copper ignition wires to the spark plugs:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VVE_8pKOlgvoncQNgG2JFg8h6bfCd6F0)
The engine is installed. The necessary pipe pieces in 4 different thicknesses were already prepared and the engine already had a continuous 0.6mm hole.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Fr3g4_1KMevYAUs7v1xaPbbnI3jMgA29)
Pictures and the Roach-drawings showed a bracing on the bottom side. Hard to see, but I implemented it according to my interpretation. Does not disturb the engine rotation.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fVsZ7eN43GIQveOE-ufgKJo0rFGFLg_u)
The thin filigree hood is put on and got a tension bracket.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14R0LrGdOQbJLPUAaFNH3FY-jYJC3RRWA)
As the borrowed propeller looked very dark, I tinted it even further with different clear colours, masked it and painted the brass armour against the seawater drops.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13AI_srXGPbWoUOXT4KTvhpP3fjqUjv6Q)
The hub metal parts are "bolted together", the distance to the bearing was so extreme. The loan probably did not fit perfectly.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RFoRwm5WOa460wSz8BVdKVnSWqzQrCgY)
As propeller decals I used 72s, the 48s were too big for me.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DtfwHOCNIO0jWiObe-9JcGqNsdjX19W_)
Also the "Sopwith" decals on the struts are also 1:72.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VQgVGP9IC_NhIed3pMz6IqlWvwPl0FdZ)
And here is a final look at the engine, which is clearly visible from below.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1onUTYxFmDdecSSPZZjJikXRpao-uCPhv)
This was a very productive long weekend! Details are all there, now a detail painting and weathering is missing.
Cheers,
Frank
-
On this page, I can't see the photos using Chrome, but Edge is OK. Anyone have a similar problem or a solution using Chrome?
Thanks,
Gene K
-
Beautiful !
Terri
No issues on my end using chrome .
-
This is so insane, Frank! There are no words to explain my admiration for your skills. I think you should now stop buying kits and do only scratch projects.
Bye,
Manni
-
Amazing work!!
Steve
-
On this page, I can't see the photos using Chrome, but Edge is OK. Anyone have a similar problem or a solution using Chrome?
Thanks,
Gene K
I am using Chrome with No Issues ::)
RAGIII
-
Incredible engine prop, etc. Superb Build!
RAGIII
-
I am using Chrome with No Issues ::)
Thanks. My no-picture problem in Chrome appears to be limited to this thread. I'll double check all my Chrome settings while I enjoy this thread using Edge.
Gene K
-
Thank you all my friends for your comments!
I think you should now stop buying kits and do only scratch projects.
Manni, the problem is, that the number of kits in my stash is already much to high to build them all ::)
A full scratch biplane take even more time, so the best compromise is to stick to kit and improve with some scratch work, where necessary.
So with real start in January the Schneider was build in 7 weeks, will be shown in exhibition at Fürstenfeldbruck end of February.
I hope to go back to the Albatros triplane soon!
My no-picture problem in Chrome appears to be limited to this thread.
The pictures here are delivered by Google Drive.
I'll double check all my Chrome settings while I enjoy this thread using Edge.
For me it works with Chrome (version 79.xxx), Chromium, Firefox and on Android Tablet with another chrome release.
The fact, that you enjoy this thread is most important :D
Cheers,
Frank
-
As others have commented Frank, this is just inspiring work in every way. The engine just needs some fuela and oil and a spark to get it going!
Stephen.
-
Thank you Stephen, it is so nice to know, that you following my projects :) Your kind word are highly appreciated!
The ropes are painted, some washing with oil paint is distributed on the model surfaces ... but ...
Details are all there
that was simply not true ??? I forgot something (thought about it earlier) and have to scratch it in metal.
I think the last update will be ready this weekend.
Cheers,
Frank
-
St Valentine's Day
The last update...
First the mentioned missing detail. Some drawings and especially the good photos showed a pitot tube with a bracket on the outer left strut, outside the influence of the propeller.
The pitot tube itself is a 0.3mm micro tube, soldered in a 0.5mm tube, plus a cone and a 0.4mm tube with narrowest sheet metal strips as brackets to form one unit.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BEAG88HU0tSsXIKL4gPGIbRqHBQZuCf4)
After tinning and burnishing the head, 0.2mm lead wires were glued in as leads ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aesboxvekM48OjDuqcvvOv6WFljst-DJ)
... and the unit was glued to the model. So, now the Howard can measure his record speed :)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wQiLF7bTnfAAr1tpHb_Omc-mP6PMmhAR)
And then something else came to my mind, now it will be funny: Today is Valentine's Day, the day of the florists!
A friend of mine used to supply me with flowers for my Daisycutter dio, and left a few more. I found them in the depths of my craft cave ;) With a few shreds of it and thin tissue paper I wrapped two bouquets.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vn4-ijy1jWjCyTas87FoKU_M-rOekm6d)
On the photos after the flight these bouquets can be recognized by the front struts, here for example
(https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/7/7/6/7/a9826013-129-Trophy%201.jpg)
Source: rcgroups.net
What else happened?
The bracing ropes are painted metallically, and with oil paints and pastels I soiled the tabloid.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DoToOveQm3nMY_L1LGKeUNR6FOgdENm-)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1a_SWIeeArmy-9unNQG9ynGVUC4mUNtoi)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ig1pUfksbhKgMlK4ocsiZeEfbrwgfSBc)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bNA3j2kKqvy6YnnLew0SGM-cGPVwW54d)
What do you think, leave the flowers on? Or does that not work / is it too much of a good thing? I don't want it to become a diorama, the Tabloid will sit next to sister Lebed in the showcase.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hQ0GT7z4CrPzSGfCPXtygIB0oPDwQbfZ)
When the oil paint has hardened, I'll go over it with clear varnish, maybe a little Smoke.
This is the end of my build report 8) I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed building the model!
Cheers,
Frank
PS: With the completion of this model the probability increases that a manufacturer with a kit for this version will come around the corner :-)
-
I enjoyed following along with your build, Frank. The metal work you did was fantastic.
As for the flowers, I think they look out of place without some explanation, but they do add an interesting and colorful personal touch. Its your call.
-
Your completed Model is an incredible example of fine detailing and painting! I am always amazed at your Metal and wood work! Lovely Build Frank!
RAGIII
-
You've done it again Frank, simply magnificent! I'll reserve detailed comments for the Completed Models entry however, on the flowers topic, I like them ................... how many others in your cabinet have flowers?? ;)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Hi Frank - your results are fantastic. I think the flowers are such a nice, unique touch.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Hi Frank, congrats on this masterpiece! Another gem from your bench!
Jörg
-
I like the flowers. I like it all!
Happy <3 day.
vB ;)
(https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/7/7/6/7/a9826013-129-Trophy%201.jpg)
-
That is a wonderful model in every way Frank. I would leave the flowers as they are an authentic and unique touch. Other models in your cabinet may be jealous but I am sure that they will get used to it eventually!
Stephen.
-
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51gm2axLIRL._SX355_.jpg)
Good things do have flowers.
Andreas
-
Leave the flowers , it really adds to it 8) Extremely well done 8)
Terri
-
Like the flowers they are great - As is the rest of the Schneider winner!
Cheers: Kent
-
Flower Power......man
Steve
-
Great touch, the flowers. I'm for leaving them as the model reproduces exactly the true aeroplane.
I mean the true small aeroplane shows the same configuration of the bigger one!
Ciao
Giuseppe
-
Wow my friends - those flowers created a lot of interest! Thank you very much, your feedback is highly appreciated.
In meantime I was able to create the final album.
The light tent was already set up when I discovered two missing tension ropes! So I added a cross bracing between the front struts, just between the flowers. The original picture with the flowers showed it clearly.
So let's jump over to the completed section:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10864.0
Again a project done ??? Thanks for watching and following this journey!
Cheers,
Frank