forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on December 08, 2019, 04:42:57 AM
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Hello my friends!
After the finish of my W.4 I touched shortly some shelf queens, but had no real motivation to continue on one of them.
Instead I started a new project ...
Yet another Dr.I
I think I will do serial D 1573/17 from autumn 1917.
"Dr" stands for the german word Dreidecker = Triplane.
So this beast needs a lot of wings!
I spend some time to cut out all six ailerons from the brittle plastic and to create new hinges.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BSvfN6ZLccOMjGvhb-ynk7aC_It4jMVh)
The wings was primed with Alclad white and a bit shadowed as preparation for the decals.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zDG4IIiY80n0bq_w-4vzqUpHndMp_F7K)
Eduard packed a bigger amount of decals into the box, but I do not like the color.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ARBSRXCpcSrfYUUaDGPexQ5ji8OTYzES)
So I will replace them with Aviattic decals, here 5 color upper side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13RUqEH5k558V3HXQQrtehxQqLL_dNx_D)
On lower side the color are more worse.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1c2q43aGnOrtPonUUcGBnxf477tBUujEh)
Don't expect much progress, to cover all the wings with decals and much more rip tapes will take time.
I hope some of you have some interest in this project and will follow.
Cheers,
Frank
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I have an interest in this build , got this kit in the stash ;)
Terri
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Yes! So glad you're doing this one, Frank. I have it in my stash. Lead the way!
Cheers,
Bud
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A pretty old one, and very nice. Following with interest and pleasure.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Great start on this one Frank! One that we don't see modeled very often so this should be a Treat!
RAGIII
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Anything that you do attracts my interest Frank, because you always demonstrate a new technique or idea, and always produce outstanding models! So I will be following if I may.
Stephen.
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Thank you fro your interest Terri, Bud, Giuseppe, Rick and Stephen!
One that we don't see modeled very often
Have not found that machine at all in this forum ???
Anything that you do attracts my interest Frank, because you always demonstrate a new technique or idea, and always produce outstanding models!
Thank you very much, Stephen! That are sooo nice words :-*
So I will be following if I may.
You not only may! It is an honor for me that you like to follow (and to read my broken english sentences ::) )
Cheers,
Frank
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I want in on the ride as well!
/Fredrik
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Count me in for the long haul. Looking forward to the progress.
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I will take a seat too... no three :P
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Also a warm welcome to the three latest guests!
Functioning seat adjustment
After doing a lot of decal work, with some problems, I need a break and have done somthing different.
On my Albatros W.4 a friend complained, that the seat is too far back, so a pilot with very long legs is needed. I mounted the parts in the recesses given by Eduard so it was to late to fix it. But this should not happen again ...
The kit contains some nice PE, but I found other PE set by Eduard to add some parts.
So I soldered a seat and added 0.8mm Nickel silver pipes to the mounting frame.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1P09xQl7Y3hZUIdG7ga40dc5UHtzPv8m-)
I formed the frame for fuselage and soldered 0.7mm nickel silver pipes, as this matched the etched holes.
Inside of the seat I formed upholstery with Milliput.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VRsXcwBQBVlwp9I6uc7HQUjJjPpNI_BG)
Now I can mount the seat with PE clamps and the seat can slide on the tubing.
Here in the back position:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HVrJe86w6QkYgB0AwMoI5YzrhH8-QR83)
And here moved to max foreward position:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1d_A_wHVwXKiVlXw0qvR--4tSTkMJhBcy)
And finally the painted the leather.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1T_on3oSjKzbTMWWmJcoGrKCTFuO8K2a2)
I only added the tubes and Milliput, the rest was provided by Eduard.
The seat can still be removed to paint the frame.
Cheers,
Frank
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I'm really glad I managed to get a seat for the show! 😀
Absolutely marvelous work! Since joining this forum I've learned so much and tried several new techniques, including rigging with elastic and monofilament. Your soldering is tempting me to add another element to my modelling.
/Fredrik
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simply brilliant metal work. But you knew that, you dont need me to tell you that :)
Is the PE set the one that was designed for the older Dr. I kits?
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You get More amazing with each build!
RAGIII
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I'm on board for the ride too !
Ed
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WOW simply WOW! Your modelling skills are simply out of this world! Keep the updates coming.
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Thank you very much for all the nice feedback!
I'm on board for the ride too !
Ed, very nice to have you here! With your account name "dr 1 ace" I expected some complains about the form of the wings!
Is the PE set the one that was designed for the older Dr. I kits?
I've been leading you astray! :P
As some of you noticed already this project is a Dr.I, but not Fokker - it is an Albatros! 8)
Eduard released a kit 8037 of it in 1998 (very rare now). Somehow based on the D.V kit, but the fuselage is closed on underside as needed here.
https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/Albatros-Dr-I-PROFIPACK-1-48.html
Boxart (source: eduard.com):
(https://www.eduard.com/out/pictures/z1/8037.jpg)
Since the name was clearly visible on the PE parts, I have not shown them yet:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1KaNXHRXT5bC6yASZiAEItStmJ-eXwL-P)
The bird was build from a D.V, so I used another Eduard PE set fro the D.V/D.Va.
The matching Windsock Datafile is this one:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1luHjjO8thsJfNgnZOM072_gZmz2ywMFj)
It contains two pictures and scale drawings in my needed 1/48 scale.
The pictures can also be found on wikipedia:
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Albatros_Dr.I_%28fq%29.jpg)
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b0/Albatros_Dr.I.jpg)
So please, if anybody known another picture or info about this only once build bird, please speak up!
Your soldering is tempting me to add another element to my modelling.
Fredrik, this here was a easy task, compared to solder a complete aircraft from PE parts. This I have done multiple times and shown here in the forum. I think, the soldered DH-2 is still my masterpiece.
You get More amazing with each build!
I try hard Rick, but this is not always possible ;)
Keep the updates coming.
I am very happy to read Filip from you, because your Albatros W.4 was also a template for the construction of mine lately.
To be able to show a new update I have to build something before!
The upper side of the wings is decaled, but I had some trouble. On some areas a huge amount of small bubles popped up, and I forgot to drill some of the holes. During later drilling some decal stripe got caught in the drill bit - I have to redo that. And I should have started with the lower side, this is not yet done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TYKgh6qhl-MDsI39gyK4PCv7oVGpb5iO)
And I started to do wooden struts. The mounting is complicated because the lower wings hangs on the struts (to middle wing) below the fuselage. So only dry fitting to get the correct length of the struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11DMpNgrAgKm30-ZIbXyLlwijn6Dj6KjS)
There are a huge amount of tasks on the ToDo list, I will try to work on the cockpit, fuselage and wings somehow in parallel.
I was not able to find this bird at all in this forum?!
Cheers,
Frank
PS: I modified the thread title.
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What an interesting build...again. This will be...already is..exciting.
Robin :)
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Progressing nicely so far Frank with the struts and fitting . :)
Terri
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An interesting subject, Frank, and a great execution!
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In spite of your bubbles the lozenge looks terrific, as do the struts and pins. This one will be as stunning as your last one I am sure!
RAGIII
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I think the Albatros D.V is a beautiful aircraft. This version... not so much. :o
Your efforts at building it are great though and very well presented!
/Fredrik
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Thank you Robin, Terri, Ken, Rick and Fredrik!
Wood painting
The next step was the painting of wooden cockpit parts, after opening some frames and a careful test fit. In the manual of the additional PE set a careful test fit is recommended, otherwise you can't close the fuselage.
The inside surfaces are primed white.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1I4YwX5w9tvcW428F4ZJ3pr2Qh0Ndm-tn)
The next step was a linen color behind the seat and cloudy painted acrylic Wood base.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IXFzyBunelB07_3nTGBRxP64DJx6X09E)
Finally I tried to simulate wood grain with oil paints:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uGkutcLAogqqdwSJMq23wDswo7pNCAZm)
The oils are hardening now on radiator. Time for something different.
Cheers,
Frank
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after opening some frames
good, good. ;D
Robin :)
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Lovely wood tones!
RAGIII
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Very nice tones Frank , looking forward on seeing the rest come together .
Terri
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Hi!
Many years ago, Tom's Modelworks produced a three wings set in 1/72 scale for this plane.
They were studied to insert in a Roden D.V fuselage, and so I bought it.
Only one Dr.I in this configuration was built, and in my files I have only the two photos that you showed us.
But, finally, I will use your building as a course for my Dr.I.
Great work!
Roberto
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Thank you Robin, Rick, Terri and Roberto! Your comments are highly appreciated!
Roberto, in the scale 1/72 there are even more kits, see:
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=Albatros+Dr.I&fkTYPEGROUP[]=%22Albatros%20Dr.I%22&fkSCALE[]=%221:72%22
The one from Choroszy Modelbud is still available.
Cheers,
Frank
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Propeller
During oxidation of the oils I have done the air screw.
Some raw work:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZgeiW26d1bObE-RE5DYhLqsMs8w5fl0E)
Final form reached:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1q1wsgrxGmR_KMlOl8K9dCB6RYEoM3UrH)
The backside:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UK4JTvHyNaVcMksnnH3kXiFj3N4mSEMc)
And the spinner from the kit fits without modification:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ycETdijmAOmMlGeJiOOsOrSEM0CH108d)
The final painting is done, but had some trouble to get a good picture without daylight (it is sooo early dark now!)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qeMR7pQDghIKIXCB4LDe_j7bKz-e_3cs)
In the side view it is very thin.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1i7Sa6ITG1HUWsCRaoTleGscbMxsDc3dT)
Again a task done.
Cheers,
Frank
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That's a beautiful prop.
Robin :)
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Gorgeous propeller Frank, looks great.
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That's a beautiful prop.
Robin :)
Well what can I say other than I agree!
RAGIII
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Beautiful work on that prop!
/Fredrik
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As the others said, beautiful prop. And the wood grain isn't showing.
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Thank you Robin, Juan, Rick, Fredrik and Ken!
Does anyone have an idea where I can find Albatros company logos in 1:48?
(http://www.hyperscale.com/images/Albatros%20logo.jpg)
Source: hyperscale.com
A little wish for X-mas, you know ... ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Cockpit
So that the fuselage can be glued together soon, I first took care of the cockpit.
Like on the W.4 the fuel distribution panel, but here as etched part. So there are already the metal frames for the switches. The black sheets are decals again.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1c50fcNNXh2JpSMiyQ3-1ByqW9DJ7jnvp)
After the painting of the frame I could now finally mount the seat frame. The HGW/Eduard cloth belts are also fixed, the upper holders for the belts on the frame of the "canvas wall" are etched parts from the kit. The compass was also added, with decal from the leftover box and glazed with Kristal Klear.
There were decals for some dials, but in diameter twice as big as the places where they should be applied.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-P7ceYIYHm9LM52pArx5Lcn18VOcE3Wb)
The ignition magnet sits on a metal frame (etched part), throttle and ignition switch got a real wood plate.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NhhczhlLk1Zil0kat1uW00ZuJ6XIpf16)
On the other side there are much more details in the fuselage, 0.1mm nickel silver wires on the pedals, control sticks, etched parts, pumps, pipes. Only the dials are from an instrument set of Eduard.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qDivM7gqAksOq_5cQlP5N7HBXrdc5puQ)
Then I also glued the seat frame into the fuselage, with lots of CA-gel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HizoKYnorgicB4pLRjiEDv7R9gBwGMu2)
And again a nice cockpit, which is actually far too good to be hidden in the fuselage. But there are still the pictures.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fM9vJFLXV-w8XxzvBQUzJrZWfbdskrEw)
A light washing will follow, but this triplane hasn't flown much.
Before the fuselage can be closed, I have to work on the engine.
Cheers,
Frank
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Man , that pit looks really nice ! Looking forward to the engine .
Terri
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Thumbs up, Frank!
Andreas
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Just catching up on this very nice progress
Steve
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Like you said, Frank, the details are far too good to hide in the fuselage. But that adjustable seat is just showing off!
Great progress and looking forward to seeing more of your inspiring build.
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Your interior could be 1/32nd scale! Enough said!
RAGIII
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Thank you all for your great feedback and a Happy Christmas to all!
Thumbs up, Frank!
Nice to see you here, Andreas. I thought you refused to comment on a build of ugly triplanes:
Although it's a shame to spoil that elegant machine with a 3rd pair of wings ;)
Borsos
;D
Cheers,
Frank
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Tank
It's been a long time since anything happened here...
Somehow the Sopwith cutter had pushed in front of me, so that I could start to use the new toy cutting plotter.
Now I have soldered here again, there was still a tank missing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XqQHPFJVCSq_5sc4CaWH4MpL__6VgurE)
With inlets for oil and fuel, as well as a tap with "copper pipe".
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13_4bcnRss3n4y0y-NZ0uYCBRw2cJnRCN)
And the view after assembly into the fuselage.
The started engine is doing a test fit, as you can see it is not the kit engine, but again a resin from Vector. I bought two of them, the first one is fitted into my Albatros W.4.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1J90jVqn1WwKxmOciGKZ47bBR_0Xh2CIA)
Now it needs more parts and details.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1R8mQ-LZdVOBmlXIzP0IHnT6zXOM9XktL)
And the "smooth-running bearing" is also made. A nice example, that not everything works for me ...
The first one was soldered so far, I wanted to turn the end so thin that it fits into the engine - shaft bent.
At the second attempt solder ran into the bearing, this was no longer a rotating shaft but a stable connection.
This is the third attempt:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PPDeCRUbtscDiafrOrpCSK2zuan0LC9t)
The propeller can now rotate very easily:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dRKUNZsOYPuu7-3aLL_zuUKbabWFwDs0)
Cheers,
Frank
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Nice yo see you back on this one Frank :)
Terri
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Thank you Terri, but it will need a while.
During soldering it reminds me on another PE kit and I could not resist to start another parallel build ::)
There was a free area on my project store previously occupied by the Schneider parts 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful work on the Tank,prop and hub, and engine Frank!
RAGIII
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Thank you Rick!
Engine
After some more detailing, painting and an oil wash, this is now the result I have achieved from the lump of resin.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14CyMdtZG1iYK_duA2ljiFoOudqDtWw5J)
The other side. A hole has removed the cast-on pin and made space for the bearing deep inside the resin.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kuMl-LUaIRwLgB2FzCpiVmSJ2RaxRLzZ)
The engine is now securely glued, the propeller is just plugged on, but can turn.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MCtQVDLZjirOf_HBQnKGo6lNgYJbfCSf)
A last view for goodbye ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DeEus0KYq_vTf1Ef1_eYrUA4M0q7QpZy)
I had to adjust the shape of the side fairing on the engine a little bit, then the fuselage halves could be glued together. The separated rudder fin and the skid holder at the tail were also glued in, so that all "wooden parts" could be painted in one go.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Y0EmAX1p6kmRJRK-DGrE_u41RuZJS8bg)
From the cockpit and engine you can even see something
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1E534QYTsyFtC9WqUkMk8rorGudyqrhO7)
When the glue has hardened, I can sand and prime everything and paint the wooden look.
Cheers,
Frank
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Truly amazing Frank, you are a master, especially in this smaller scale. I would have believed it was 1/32.
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Frank,
I continue to not be able to view any pictures that you post, and have been unable to track down why.
Can you tell me the site that hosts the pictures that you link ... or are you posting some other way?
Thanks -- I feel I'm really missing out!
Gene K
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Gene,
I continue to not be able to view any pictures that you post, and have been unable to track down why.
Can you tell me the site that hosts the pictures that you link ... or are you posting some other way?
The pictures are hosted by Google.
Sorry, I have so influence, how the links looks like, and no other storage space available.
A suggestion:
- please Quote my last update posting, then you see the source.
- copy the URL of a picture between the IMG-tags
- put it into the address line of your browser and press Enter
=> I guess the picture will be shown
I don't know, why some specific browser versions do not load the pics during rendering of the page, seems to be a bug. I heard from Safari on some iPads.
Actual browsers are working: Chrome, Firefox are working here, on my PC at work also MS Explorer.
Cheers,
Frank
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Excellent outcome on the engine Frank. All is looking fantastic! I am looking forward to the wood painting!!
RAGIII
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I really like the direction this build is taking so far , Wunderbar !
Terri , almost tempted to pull my out of the stash ....
Terri
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Many compliments Frank!
As I wrote, I have this Dr.I in my future plan in 72nd scale and now it's time to follow better your next steps!
Great work!
Roberto
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Really good work on engine and accessories.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Oh sorry my friends - have not say thanks for your nice comments: Thank you!
After exhibiton, illness and a build of a Benz Motorwagen (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10929.0) I decided to continue on this rare bird!
Wooden fuselage
Tried some weeks ago to mask the engine using tape, but failed. So I put it aside then ... Tried again today with the idea to use normal paper cut in strips. Seems to work!
Here I have a lot of wood, but where to hold this beast? I drilled holes, will be used later to mount the tailplane, nut now for two needles ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HOfL4aJfE2arFEAIvBV2ODLcc1OJrD0g)
... a clamp can hold now the fuselage and is a nice handle during the paint process.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lMYSAm3wP3kf88LLezJGYbjmW_-yf1Pm)
After white primer - sanding - primed again, I painted acrylic "wood base".
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Rs3E0e6VF2cnmZ3d30CQd7sZuI0-5o1h)
This time I take more case for the seams, here the lower side, looks nice and aerodynamical clean without a wing recess!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VBoWXqqtwFVcuY5Zn_aTbSBSU37FpDkO)
And also the upper side seems to be ok.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Y19HQO1W6fk5181Rh-zWpx1czT5nvsNs)
The next step was the wood simulation with different oils.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NjMlpxYlbNfOyBNSCFoMLtgjm_uMREJJ)
Have to wait now for hardening. Later clear yellow/orange will follow.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1S7mYUJ_PkiXXoo1UBEd-koxVipTT98eP)
Cheers,
Frank
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Really Love your wood work here Frank! I am in the same school as you apparently. Light and Dark vs Pattern!
RAGIII
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Frank,
I'm glad you are feeling better and it's good to see you are back on track with this build.
Have a great weekend,
Kevin
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Well done on the wooden finish, Frank!
Andreas
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Nice variations within the wood tones Frank . I have used that method of holding subjects for paint . Works like a charm !
Terri
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Hi Frank!
Wooden panels realized in a beatiful way!
Veener is not so "heavy", look good for the scale.
Congrats!
Roberto
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Frank,
I was just scrolling back catching up on this Build and saw your comment about using paper strips vs, tape for masking the engine. Someone here suggested "Post It" or sticky notes some time back in lieu of plain paper and I use it often, it works well and a bit of tape as you've included here helps.
Cheers,
Lance
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I am losing it Frank: I had not seen that you had resumed this build!
The wood finish is, as always with your models, first class.
Stephen.
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Your wood leaves me speechless, fantastic Frank.
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Wow, what a huge amount of feedback! Thank you all!
I am in the same school as you apparently. Light and Dark vs Pattern!
Especially in 1/48 scale. The feedback I got for the Benz Motorwagen in 1/24 using the same technique was overwhelming and the wooden parts was mentioned often.
I'm glad you are feeling better and it's good to see you are back on track with this build.
Thx, and yes, this project progress is well advanced last autumn, this promise a good progress and it would be pity to let it end as shelf queen.
Lance, to try Post It is a good idea, not thought about it until now - idea stored, thanks!
I am losing it Frank: I had not seen that you had resumed this build!
You haven't missed anything. I just took the albatross off the shelf on Friday 8)
Regarding the wood grain: I must admit, that it was hard again to show the real appearance on photos! After I see the macros here I thought still too much grain, but on the model with naked eye it looks better - less grain, more difference in brightness.
At the moment I'm working on the lozenge - 3 wings is a lot of work!
Cheers,
Frank
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Hello my friends and experts,
I'm still fighting with/against Aviattic Lozenge - a bit out of luck this time ::)
3 wings with upper and lower, 6 aileron cut outs, 6 wing tips, a lot of bubbles ... are driving me nuts. This can only be handled in small portions. And before I smash it on the wall, I'd better put the pieces aside.
Ok, once this is finished I have to add a huge amount of rib tapes. But here I have some questions!
As reminder here the Wikipedia picture, at least it is clear, that no lozenge rip tapes are used, but a bright color.
The rudder looks like 5 color lozenge (print version of this picture), so I guess the rest too. Eduard provides also 5 color lozenge.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b0/Albatros_Dr.I.jpg)
- The kit contains rib tapes as decals, one piece half pink (for below) and a bit dark blue (for upper side I guess). Was this a common procedure?
Which color was the on leading edge? For this no tapes provided by the kit.
- If I see other Albatros (color pictures from replica today) I often see complete pink tapes, upper, lower and leading edge. On WingNutWings site I found example for both, blue or pink, but completely in one color.
- The color side view painting of the Albatros Dr.II on the backside of the Windsock "Albatros Experimentals" has blue tapes on the leading edge, the others are not visible.
If important: the Dr.I was in tested Septemper 1917.
I tend to complete pink tapes (have more spare fro this and others in glass cabinet are blue already :D)
Any info, idea or thoughts?
Thank you very much,
Frank
Edit says, the fuselage serial was D1573/17
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I doubt that there is a"Correct" answer. To me you would be safe with Pink, blue, or even CDL rib tapes. JMHO,
RAGIII
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I agree with Lance. They used whatever was on hand.
Andreas
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I agree with Lance. They used whatever was on hand.
Andreas
Andreas,
I wish I had said what Rick said about the tapes, but I didn't! :) ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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I agree with Lance. They used whatever was on hand.
Andreas
Andreas,
I wish I had said what Rick said about the tapes, but I didn't! :) ;)
Cheers,
Lance
Well.... :o However... what a wonderful agreement between Max, Charlie and me.. ;D :'(
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Are you winning Andreas ? ;)
Frank , in agreement with the others . This type never went into production , it failed big time . The tapes are there just well conclied . To my eye in the photo you posted the tapes appear to be CDL . Blue would show dark as well as the pink . Pink and blues tapes weren't the same tone of colour . Some batches were light or dark within . So like the others go with what you have and you feel is right . There isn't a lot of info out there on this old bird so some of these details won't have anything other then the odd photo .
Yes that is a lot lozenge and tapes to apply , this would take me a bit of time and something I would get bored with very quickly . You are doing a fantastic on this one and I do look forward on the next round of pic's
Terri
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Hi Frank,
I'm sure you know that there is another photo of the Dr.I, a 3/4 port front view. Better view of lozenge on rudder.
Ribbing tapes stands out also in this second, with clearly visible the one on leading edge.
"Studying" both photos, I think to agree with Terri about CDL tapes.
But, again, no sure proofs at all, if you use your amount of pink who can say you're wrong?
My two cents!
Roberto
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Thank you all for your answers!
I wanted to avoid overlooked a rule like Albatros built blue, OAW pink, LVG linen ... Now I'm sure such rule was not existant :)
Yes that is a lot lozenge and tapes to apply , this would take me a bit of time and something I would get bored with very quickly .
Mee too, Terri, mee too!
You are doing a fantastic on this one
This is not clear yet ::)
I think I put to much Clear Orange on the fuselage and failed somehow to get a brighter panel on the front, as shown by picture. I used on it Clear yellow only, but I do not like the outcome.
Let's see ...
On the other hand the amount of small PE parts in this kit is impressive! It provides two "wire lifting handles" for the tail, that I have never seen before. After searching awhile I found a picture on the details pages Albatros D.V/D.Va in the Windsock Datafile Special "Albatros Fighter".
Cheers,
Frank
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Eduards older kits when they first started coming had impressive PE detail for the smaller items . Now that detail is moulded on and some of that detail is alright , other detail is just better in PE . The slightly darker panels ...lets see ..heat distortion form the rads ;) and oil stain on the chin ;)
Terri
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Rib tapes
After the Dolphin is going on hold I continued here with the discussed rib tapes.
I used the brightest rose ones. This is an A4 sheet (this should be enough for all 3 wings) printed by Pegasus 1994. Even that old the tapes are still ok.
This is the result on upper side:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18ZoBDuWis5lcRJ5DPduJGvd_Lnh49uXu)
and below:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aPWkCiP2Vg0MNkQKB47fijrGP-oShAZp)
I think this is looking ok and I will continue that way.
Cheers,
Frank
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I agree with Lance. They used whatever was on hand.
Andreas
So you followed Lance and Andreas' advice after all and used what was to hand! Good idea - and they look good by the way.
Stephen.
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Looks Stunning! Love the wood and Lozenge!
RAGIII
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Stunning work Frank, love everything about this. The wood, the precise construction, colour sceme it's all coming together to make a beautiful model.
-
The rib tapes look good, Frank. Don't know what you can do about the fuse color now. Just press on!
-
It's okay your work on rib tapes Frank!
The choice of a light color as your rose matched what you may see in original photos!
Great work, as usual!
Roberto
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Great update, glad to get it while I'm loosing too many threads these days. I agree with above comments: pink tape looks the right choice.
And althe work so far looks very nice as well.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Nice to see this in the lime light again , looking most excellent so far ! :)
Terri
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Great looking wing lozenge and wood!
-
Thank you Stephen, Rick, Richie, Ken, Roberto, Giuseppe, Terri and Gaz! Gaz, very nice to see you here again :)
Ailerons
Still doing lozenge and rib tapes, at least the ailerons are done. I put the lozenge here spanwise.
The result is better as the wings itself.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zZzRyLawxwZ80lHeRINvViT1OIJhljYA)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1E7_jVroQcA5wIBnVdGgJXVzHMzwNeQRd)
The ailerons are not big, so handle the edges is not easy and needs some time.
Cheers,
Frank
-
The Lozenge looks Fantastic on the Ailerons!
RAGIII
-
Getting there ;)
Terri
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Thank you, Frank! Those Ailerons look nice and tight!
-
Thank you Rick, Terri and Gaz!
Tail
After finishing the Dolphin I continued with this Dr.I and started to work on the tail.
The tailplane was one part, after cut in 3 parts and added new hinges I can mount the fixed parts with brass rods through the fuselage and are able to add the elevator out of neutral position.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HL9nJIGSsGEtlnHhhlrjqTvRZB8biSum)
After white primer I added shades and clear coat (partially too much shade, but not enough clear coat sprayed) decals added. Removed the paint of the elevator after bad looking shadows, needs new layer of future.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IsnjqejDb1_41G8SOaR4Lnou7jWOy8VW)
The decals are merciless with too little gloss paint, but now it stays that way.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Nzgsw6Krso1OYGHhxPI7CinK2XirSCac)
I'm still not in the mood to handle such unforgiving decal job ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Your lozenge application looks Perfect! Beautiful work!!
RAGIII
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I agree with Rick: that looks very good to me, although the underside is perhaps a little pale but then who is going to look under there?
Stephen.
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Thank you Rick and Stephen!
The picture setting makes it look a bit pale, because of the light today, the dark fuselage and background. It is the same 5 color lozenge decal as on wings, also on white primer.
Cheers,
Frank
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Looks great Frank! I'm sure you've written it somewhere in the thread, but whose lozenge decals is that?! Aviattic?
/Fredrik
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Thank you Fredrik!
but whose lozenge decals is that?! Aviattic?
Yep, this is Aviattic in 1/48, 5 color lozenge, in "factory fresh" (there is also "faded" available).
The page is of format A4 and has 6 stripes upper and 4 stripes of lower color.
Cheers,
Frank
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Don't blame for taking your time with the tapes , but with ever step forward she is looking better and better :)
Terri
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I think that looks awesome! I've yet to tackle my first set Aviatik decals.
-
really great build, kinda sad that this kit is rare because I'm a lot into project/prototype
-
Frank, I just caught up to this build, and your work on this is brilliant. Great job on wood painting and lozenge decals! All looks really sharp. Well done!
Best regards,
Bob
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Wow, thank you all for your interest and feedback!
I think the best is the adjustable seat and the air screw ;)
To avoid to much decaling at once I'm switching now back and forth between both triplane projects.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Crosses
Today the decals on the rudder crumbled when I wanted to make the cut for the separation seam. Really great!
.
.
.
So I was forced to cut masks for the crosses for the first time, which became much nicer. 8)
Again improvement by accident!
I was not sure about the order, but I don't want to paint white over black. So I used at first the outer mask only:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zmYY8aahdtnF8nCRLlT4eipBmuX-ykx8)
Then inserted the inner small ring and painted black:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tLwgxYfMnVGDJemJLqBbxjipG_T5C6LM)
I painted on both sides the, because I do not know, how much paint goes through the seam.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=196_yGDQy8vDVkeESq4Faf6MQ9__87IEK)
The result. The best thing: no fiddling with decal setter ....
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LnJY3rOSbklMOTXgQVBSqQIpblQImSOO)
I think, I should use my cutting machine more often.
Had only trouble, which cost me time today, that my machine do not work anymore after an update of my OS and applications. Tried to fix it myself before realizing, that a newer version of the Inkscape plugin was available and fixed the problem ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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One of those happy accidents you told me about Frank. That's a great result, the cross looks superb. Inkscape and a cutting machine are the stuff of model making dreams!
-
Good results! Isn't it really fun to remove the masks and see the result?!
/Fredrik
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That cross looks great! I'm glad the decal didn't peel when you lifted the mask.
-
I am seeing such Great Results with these plotters! Yours is another Superb example. I guess I need to start saving for one 8)
RAGIII
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I am seeing such Great Results with these plotters! Yours is another Superb example. I guess I need to start saving for one 8)
RAGIII
So true...
Andreas
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Thank you my friends!
Inkscape and a cutting machine are the stuff of model making dreams!
Yes Sir! 8)
Isn't it really fun to remove the masks and see the result?!
Fredrik, I guess you have seen the smile big grin on my face via the net? ;D
I'm glad the decal didn't peel when you lifted the mask.
Gaz, the risk is not that high since I use the "Oramask 810" masking foil with a very low adhesive strength. I think that is even less compared to our beloved Tamiya tape! I reduce it further with putting on back of the hand.
But you are right, on the wings I should take special care due to the rib tapes.
I guess I need to start saving for one 8)
Rick and Andreas, the cutter is a nice machine, but I don't like that the price has nearly doubled in a short time for this unchanged piece of hardware! So I suggest to wait for the Black Friday - you will find it then for nearly the old price. Still a half year, so a lot of time for saving some bucks for it.
Cheers,
Frank
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Tapes on the trailing edge?
The lozenge was applied on all pieces, 'only' some edges need attention.
At the moment I still applying rib tapes - a hard task! The slight elevation on the wings is hardly visible due to the shadows and the camouflage fabric. In English we call it "lozenge" but in German it is "Tarnstoff", which means camouflage fabric and it really lives up to its name! Also the consumption of the tapes is impressive, I hope my stocks are sufficient.
At the leading edge I also apply the tapes, here at the tail plane:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZZK69H4ktxtWBkWFmAkIW8qmLnz0bjwu)
And here on the leading edge of a wing:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ib32x3P2CIfqIgOKV7WOONVM8_fquJzy)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16mwayGXImdqw-SWp0f5F3XuZVV4rspez)
But how the hell are you supposed to attach the narrow tapes to the trailing edge? Do you have a trick or an idea?
I didn't do it on my Fokker D.VII either.
Cheers,
Frank
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One thing you might try is similar to what I did on my WNW Alb D.V, but with clear decal film. You might try tracing the pattern of the trailing edge onto a decal sheet with a pencil, then cut it using a dual blade tool similar to the one I made, paint it the desired color, then seal it with your favorite clear liquid decal film. Obviously, when you cut along the pencil line you'll want the other blade on the inside or the wavelengths in your scallop pattern will be slightly too wide to fit.
The dual blade is pretty easy to do- I just CA'd a piece of styrene stock of appropriate width between the blades and then taped all around to protect my fingers.
-
Nice work on the tapes Frank and masking up the markings , coming along very well :)
Terri
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I did tapes on a scalloped TE, 1:72 or 1:48 IIRC. I used many applications of Micro Sol. It finally suckered down, not perfectly, but better than I had any right to expect, well within "touch up" range. The degree of success depends on how the particular decal material you are using reacts with Micro Sol or whatever decal softener used and also how persistent you are. A coat of untinted Future over the base loz decal helps protect it from too much Micro Sol..
sp
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Thank you for the tips and comments!
I think I found a way, with securing the tapes with Future, using the same tape decal.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17YxqaTrD_VXtuekwPwRtD4onBrcTreUT)
All tapes are now applied on lower wing ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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Looking very nice Frank. I look forward to your next step in this build.
Kevin
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Nicely done Frank. You preserved the scallops. Couldn't have been done better in 1:1 with dope and a brush. How long to uncross your eyes once you got it aligned just right?
sp
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Really Frank - you produce crosses on the tail which are clearly superior to any transfer and then put rib tapes on the leading and trailing edges of the wings! I would have been hard pressed to put tapes on the leading edge in the gargantuan scale, never mind the odd scale that you work in!!
Stephen.
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Nice work all around, Frank. Painting and decaling.
-
Nice work all around, Frank. Painting and decaling.
Second this :)
Terri
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Wow, amazingly delicate decal work. So neatly done. Must have taken a very long time to get it all lined up so perfectly.
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Hi Frank,
applying pink tapes became a work inside a work! I think you've done at high standard!
Crosses on tail are a beauty.
Many compliments,
Roberto
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Thank you Kevin, sp, Stephen, Ken, Terri, Richie and Roberto! Your positive words of encouragement are most welcome!
How long to uncross your eyes once you got it aligned just right?
I am short-sighted and work without glasses.
Must have taken a very long time to get it all lined up so perfectly.
This task is on my bench already for some weeks ::)
Bugs!
Today I looked at the photos again in a quiet minute and compared them with the drawings and the kit. I did my nickname justice and found bugs!
In the view from below the drawing of the cutout of the lower wing is wrong. In the picture is a shadow, but you can clearly count 6 scallops.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HGCmTKm2g6ZEDQIMULGQwZ-fv1y5lvmB)
In the front view the cutout is correct (so the drawings itself are inconsistent), luckily the Eduard wing too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GwSnRoSZ-mHPCbPus4FjUI0NnnA_JhGF)
But the middle wing of the kit has no cutout as on pictures and drawings.
After some consideration I decided to correct that too, although one wing was finished and the other one just had no tapes.
The hard way:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1XMA77I3-9SrLv48L0OyFwa3Vj84dGwVh)
And the pipes to the radiator are taking a very strange way, but the pictures are clear in this point. The kit manual shows that too. More later.
One step forward, two back ....
Cheers,
Frank
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Ouch! Frank that must really sting. The things we must do for accuracy.
I'm sure you'll make it perfect.
Kevin
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While I am sure it is annoying I know you will win in the End!
RAGIII
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I have no doubt you will apply your great skills to this problem and come up with a stunning result. Must be quite frustrating after so much hard work on the lozenge and rib tapes.
-
Yup , that does throw a wrench in the build , that is a big difference in the cut out of the wing . An easy fix for you ;) Looking forward on the results .
Terri
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We have a word in English that start with your pen name and ends in ...ger! I think that it is appropriate here!
Glad you saw the mistakes before you attached the wings Frank: at least you can correct the error more easily at this satge - but a pain on the wing with the lozenge on already.
Stephen.
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Well done Frank,
I would have kept quiet and hoped no one noticed!
Guy
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Thank you, my friends, for your compassion!
But that's the way to add excitement to the building report, straight ahead is boring ;D
I would have kept quiet and hoped no one noticed!
;)
The bad thing is that I know! And every time I look in the showcase later, I don't see the beautiful model but the mistake. So I have to fix it.
Murphy always makes sure I don't notice it until so late.
But at least it is reported now, so for other doing this kit or triplane it is may be helpful.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Well done all around! Your usual utmost care of details and the excellent workmanship.
Just one remark, as far as I remember, the layout of the radiator pipes were modified several times and the ones shown in the scale drawings may not be that wrong as you subtitled them.
-
Frank, I completely understand and share your point. But contrary to you, I would probabely have left it like it was anyway (hoping that no one would notice) and having a bad feeling in the guts always when I looked at it. To stop now and to correct it is the hard way but also the best decision. And as it seems you even saved the Tarnstoff decals doing so. Very well done!
Andreas
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Frank,
Not a pretty situation however you have made the right choice. My compliments on your determination to maintain the highest standards of accuracy on your builds and also on your discipline. It's already an impressive and beautiful Model, and now it will be even better!
Cheers,
Lance
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Well done Frank,
I would have kept quiet and hoped no one noticed!
Guy
Me too, absolutely! ;D
Commendable (and heroic!) to say the least, as so many times I was discouraged by such discoveries and left things behind.
I'm looking forward to the correction and the final miniature original, sure will be great.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Painful discovery Frank! But I can understand having to fix it. I'd be the same, after a bit.
-
Many thanks dear friends, how you encourage me here! Really helpful and it mean a lot for me!
Just one remark, as far as I remember, the layout of the radiator pipes were modified several times and the ones shown in the scale drawings may not be that wrong as you subtitled them.
I can understand why this happen. The perspective on the picture from the front really makes it look as if the line runs as shown in the drawing. So I can really understand how the drawing was made. Only with the help of the second picture you can interpret what you see in the first picture. I only became aware of this point by the Eduard manual.
Unfortunately, no other photos of this unique piece have been preserved, or at least become known.
And as it seems you even saved the Tarnstoff decals doing so. Very well done!
That was some the easiest way, because I only have to cut them and turn them around the new edge. Cutting is easy, but piecing would have been more difficult 8)
There is a nice saying that fits: Cut off three times and still too short! ;D
It's already an impressive and beautiful Model, and now it will be even better!
... the final miniature original, sure will be great.
Giuseppe and Lance, with all the great mental and physical support on this forum I have to do my best!
I'd be the same, after a bit.
Gaz, that is a very good answer! The slang nickname of this one is "Bit", I think you mean that one?
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Bitburger_Premium_Beer.JPG/1200px-Bitburger_Premium_Beer.JPG)
That seems to be the best solution in such situation: come down, drink a beer, think about it - and fix it the next day.
And one word to actual state: 3.85m rib tapes are applied (no joke! 14 decal stripes each 27.5cm used until now), and I'm not yet done. But nearly done, only the upper wing need some work.
Cheers,
Frank
-
The lower wing was finished already.
The middle wing are now also done, including the inner cutout.
Today the remaining rib tapes on upper wings was applied. All done.
But with securing the rib tape on the trailing edge with Future I run into trouble.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aZ9Xg9MRlCKQg-aqrHMJRIM-7fFlBj4B)
The lozenge decals have come loose, Future has run under them, blown bubbles, and with every attempt to save it somehow, it has gotten worse and worse. I was so angry, I tore off the centerpieces.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IPmvXB479LnKeMl0RJB49CCUlEKOPi4e)
So I put it away and tried to do something different.
Wheels
One open task was the wheels.
The left bright grey wheel ist the kit wheel. This is according to the Datafile drawing, but I think it is a bit small. A friend warned me that the Eduard Albatros is sitting notoriously low on the landing gear, so a small wheel would increase that effect.
The Experimental-Datafile mention also the Albatros D.V pages in the Albatros Special Datafile, so I checked the drawing there. The wheel is much bigger, accordingly the wheels in the Albatros D.V kit on the right in the picture, but there are no spares.
I found remaining bigger wheels from a Fokker kit (the dark blue grey), but the tire is thin and the wheel itself too.
Later I found wheels in a Mirage Halberstadt kit, which are not needed. But this are only the tires! I sanded them a little bit thinner.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Vy2i7-XuXMeaCMDNF-oQlhnh1NlmKLY-)
On the inner side I cut 0.5mm plastic sheet, but what about the conus on the outer side? I tried deep drawing with a hot air gun, but this fails. I don't have the needed tooling as the experts showed here.
But I have a lathe! So I glued two 1mm sheets and turned a flat conus.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11yVDQB8Km68JN6dZReGZbF9ehTTdcH8k)
I turned also two brass bushes for adapting the nickel silver axle on the left. I think I have now two bulky wheels which look like the ones on the original picture.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RJIsRln5Yo5BUgU0ceApzxJhtPcz60Vp)
I can glue them after painting and don't need masks.
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
The wings look fantastic. I'm glad the correction to the cutouts worked out so well.
The wheels and tires will look great, too.
Kevin
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Hi Frank, the wing cut outs look great. Once you've reapplied decals it will have been well worth it. Wheels are looking great, the brass bushes must be tiny. Love how you add these little details to your builds.
-
You are a MASTER Frank! Cutouts are perfect !! The work on the wheels is just another notch in your belt !
RAGIII
-
Thank you my friends!
Crosses
After the experiment with painting the crosses on the rudder I wanted to do all the other crosses in one go. But ...
.
.
.
This project does not seem to be under a good star. I'm just screwing up right now!
This cross on the fuselage is the only one without issues.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1zHSWjRbZKlofxn4QL58nk-zcYEtBTPyZ)
The other side has a small problem, but this can be fixed with a brush I think.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PsO3TeB2P3yTc9Lm6Q7xsz8r_pgqosM1)
I'm glad the decal didn't peel when you lifted the mask.
Gaz posting should have been a warning to me!
I touched the masks multiple times to reduce the tackiness, but it was still to high!
On upper wing it lifted up rib tapes:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uZ2bSEToHKxx71NJhHNAdD5LV5wNVGg0)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RXw6WSf7Iyz1wadMUVB5ADgQFerIyuWr)
And on lower wing I lifted up the lozenge decals in big bubbles, lost rib tapes too. I tried to avoid aditional damages and removed the mask in small pieces but ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DxyVet6L0SKcDB_d7KT01ca9-l_8raKT)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MJ73aP2qjTCxQBHAvVEJokaSoa7vkJMv)
Since the decals are now overstretched, I have no idea how to fix it. It looks in real more worse as on pictures.
I guess I made the main mistake much earlier and the surface was not glossy enough. This has now taken its bitter revenge.
I still lack experience with this stuff ...
Now I'm really frustrated.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Frank I feel for you. You are such a perfectionist and those transfers are giving you hell! I am not sure that I can offer any constructive advice as I do not have much experience with these media. Instead you must make do with my compliments on the wheels - they are first class as usual.
I am sure that you will get the transfers sorted out eventually - give yourself some time to calm down.
Stephen.
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Oh no Frank, what a cruel reward for so much hard work. The modelling gods have been most unkind to you, the post started out so promisingly too. Like others have said you will prevail in the end, you're too fine a modeller to be overcome by this setback
-
Like the others I can feel your pain but I know you are an excellent modeler and can succeed!
RAGIII
-
Sorry to see this, it's a pity such an incovenience after all the beautiful work and so close to completion. But I'm sure you will fix it perfectly.
Wish you good luck!
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Frank,
I feel for you, Buddy! Masking and painting are fraught with potential difficulties. One color is no problem, two colors greatly multiply potential issues. I notice on your fuselage cross, some of your white paint lifted, possibly when you lifted your mask. One thing you can do, is before you peel away the mask, lightly trace the edges with a sharp blade.
Another helpful thing is to peel away the mask as parallel to the model surface as possible, instead of lifting straight up, perpendicularly. Though this changes the direction of pull, reducing the chance of paint liftup, it's no guarantee against pulling up decals. Decals are strange animals. When you want them to come up, they are as stubborn as can be. But when you want them to stay in place when touched as lightly as a feather, they'll act like scared birds.
Good Luck!
Gaz
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sorry to see your troubles, i really hope you can find a fix as it's a beautiful looking model
-
Been there and done that before many times and I learn't to lesson the frustration before masking over decals apply a few clear coats and let this FULLY dry for a few days sometimes up to week . Then mask over . Not 100% solution but it really reduces the risk of the decals lifting . I know you will pull through ;)
Terri
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Thank you Stephen, Richie, Rick, Giuseppe, Gaz, Early Bird Fan and Terri for your supportive comments! That means a lot for me!
Landing gear
After all the trouble I like to go back to my comfort zone. A rainy Sunday on the bench.
I masked a lot and painted the engine area, the wheels and the prepared small parts with the Gray Green of Drooling Bulldog.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Dc3S2S-jMhjpWFIR4QjpRHwRzhPpJ-nD)
After unmask it looks nice beside the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EjYP5d3hj_FGFpmhMr0v29_3Gy0Pm060)
The wheels looks nice. The tire is unpainted. It looks nice, but the four sprue gates are still visible so I should paint the tires too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YD6wremLZ6i2UUb5FkXBp8-s7GxyJDYw)
Then I glued the small PE parts in place. Here the right side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pOHsiN4J32unQL2zAurvb0tTxsrUqA31)
Some more on left side, also two lids underneath. Please note the bend lids.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=106WVfoblsYfjp93NQ1iA0TE39IouO08Q)
I need a preview for motivation :)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yQ9XbD1Btf5516XGIRJvq6W-kcrjocyQ)
The kit struts of the landing gear are already to short in side view. Not to mention the tilted position!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DnaOJc8SL_QfUDAdumLKjKJTJqVg_O-S)
The plastic is also very brittle, and also a little bit to wide. So I formed new brass struts.
The copper wires prevent kinking and are relatively easy to remove after bending.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IXGIN9yy1_txKmHl9PhhHcJ1imYOCoUs)
Both are done. A shaft of the drill helps with the inner diameter of the arc.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1H4-TaJ11Ai6ZwLixqBsAg2T_52NfWEfB)
8 additional fittings added from bigger diameter. The lower ones soldered in place, some pins to hold the suspension rubber lines in place too. Axle and distance tube are nickel silver.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EOFaeadBWj-3rFDo32MjcrUBnMsuCwiF)
The tube will be soldered later. After mounting of the lower wings the legs will be shortened to the final size and get some brass pins.
I think it looks like a Albatros landing gear!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14XJXzC-ge5i1DP1wZq-aeEQaRR2M629g)
Such scratch work is always fun for me!
Cheers,
Frank
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Phenomenal Work on the gear and wheels Frank! You are a Master of details!! The short gear legs were/are a problem with all of their DV variants.
RAGIII
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Beautiful scratch work Frank, good response to the recent torment.
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Great work on undercarriage and fuselage painting-detailing. Well done.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Frank,
I somehow missed this change of fortune earlier, I am very sorry for your problems with the masking and decal damage. You are doing the right thing by putting that aside while you work on another part of the Build. It will put a more positive impression on the project and give you time to work out a solution or two, which I know you'll do! So take it slow, have another of those Bitburgers, and do your usual "Bug hunting" and all will be good!! :)
Cheers,
Lance
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8)
Up to your usual standard. Good work!
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Those landing gear struts look great! Especially given the scale.
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Thank you Rick, Richie, Giuseppe, Lance, Ken and Gaz! Your feedback motivates me a lot in this tough project!
So take it slow, have another of those Bitburgers, and do your usual "Bug hunting" and all will be good!! :)
Lance, thank you for such long and encouraging answer!
We have so many good beers in Germany that I prefer others ;) I posted the Bit because Gaz's sample was just too good!
I want to say thank you also to Jamo/James Fahey! Without his fantastic picture documentation of a Albatros I would not be able to scratch the landing gear in that level. Really pitty that some of those documentation threads are dead due to the dump photobucket issue :(
Cheers,
Frank
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The scratch building that you have done on the undercarriage is truly exceptional Frank. I have to keep reminding myself just how small some of those parts are. The wood of the fuselage is also outstanding - a bit like the rest of your model (and all of your other models too).
Stephen.
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Super job on the wheels and landing gear struts Frank 8)
Terri
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Good job Frank! Inspiring, as always!
I find it hard to keep up with all postings on the forum right now and so I hadn't seen your misfortunes with the masking. One idea for the future is not to use the masks on a gloss surface. I find that the masks attach much stronger when applied on a gloss surface. This of course causes an extra step when you want to paint on top of decals. Good luck with the touch ups!
/Fredrik
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Thank you Stephen, Terri and Fredrik!
I find it hard to keep up with all postings on the forum right now
Yes, so many nice activities! I bit hard to follow all, if you want also to spend some time on the own bench ;D
Thanks for the tips with the masking!
Spandau LMG 08/15
My last experimental triplane, the Pfalz D.III conversion was unarmed, but this Albatros needs two Spandaus.
We live in wonderful times and can buy beautiful accessories, like this set from Master.
(http://www.master-model.pl/images/products/AM-48-035_01.jpg)
Source: master-model.pl
I have now 5 models in my cabinet with those Spandau sets, the last ones I have mounted on the Albatros W.4.
When it was clear that my stock was exhausted I had ordered a larger quantity some time ago, 10 packs of these pairs, to be exact. There are still enough Fokker, Albatros, Roland, Pfalz, Siemens-Schuckert ... boxes in my stash to put them in. So you can negotiate a good price and it also offers advantages in building.
To get the wonderful details I burnished the parts. I can only recommend not to burnish all parts at once, because they are made of different brass alloys. These react differently to the chemical liquid and it is difficult not to expose the fine particles to chemical attack for too long.
On the other hand, I can now burnish equal parts at once, without too much extra work, and have effective control over the times. Since my liquid has to be heated up to 80-90°C in a water bath, this is always time-consuming.
So I burnished here the 20 jackets, which are milled or etched brass pipes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BMK0gLKXVVWfyogYL5ILRQWw32kWJB7s)
Then I burnished the 40 turned parts for the gun barrels.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1z5WYcO1-n1Od36bQiFNuJEG63WWgzV1c)
The PE alloy was a bit special compared to my last sets. It was hard to get them black. Since there are 3 PE set on one sheet I used only 8 sheets for now. 24 parts should be enough for 20 guns.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iY1ZelKiQWvTNL7FbOkPbkr4qfNAJAc_)
Then I glued the barrel parts together. The fit is perfect!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1S8oa-1P0XedtsPkONu0U9TKAJTOurrnJ)
The details too!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JCIHzFugMlhJnNqn9D8cH21yI2eDxFZW)
Another advantage is that I slowly get the hang of it the other parts get better and better. When I build a pair twice a year, I have long forgotten the experience.
Below the Cent four guns are mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VaodllOVG02ZXmIISufM82JBKHGF6zHG)
And here is one in a close up. Missed a bit of light this evening for better picture quality.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-C6oGCzisCY0q8T0qiU74QY5MRs_Nwp-)
At is a real pleasure to handle such fantastic parts from Master!
I think standardization is very nice, so that the German aircraft all had the same Spandaus in use 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Love those guns, Frank! It's pretty hard to be Master Barrels for quality and appearance.
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Simply awesome results from a fine product!
RAGIII
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Those gun parts look great Frank. I am having language issues here. I thought "burnished" was something you did to dry press on letters by rubbing with a plastic stylus. Obviously it also means a chemical treatment of some sort. Can you educate me a bit or point me at an online source of info about what you are doing with the pieces.
Thanks
sp
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You can start your factory in producing miniature arms , looking excellent Frank
Terri
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Thank you all!
I am having language issues here. I thought "burnished" was something you did to dry press on letters by rubbing with a plastic stylus. Obviously it also means a chemical treatment of some sort.
I checked yesterday the dictionary and found for our german verb "brünieren" the translations burnishing and browning. I checked now further and the technical english expression seems to be "black oxide finishing". That is a chemical process known from small arms weapon, but of course you need different chemistry for steel, brass or other materials.
I have bottles from a german company (https://www.saemann-aetztechnik.de/) for brass and nickel silver.
This one needs to be heated; it may work at lower temperature, but then gets more brown instead of black, needs _much_ longer, filigree parts in danger for more etching and the oxide layer is not that robust. With the 80-90°C as written on the bottle and the manual it works fast, but time still depends on the used alloy. The manual recommends to try a small piece of the alloy to see if it works, but of course I have to live with the parts as delivered by Master.
There are also other products from other companies, e.g. the tank modelers uses such things for metal tracks.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1OFho5hTYZxNuZMetMSRSTNhaO7RwirpV)
You can start your factory in producing miniature arms , looking excellent Frank
I continued today, but after overall 16 guns I have enough! I put the finished Spandau on a little board to store it safely in the showcase. Do not touch the cross hair under any circumstances during construction and handling, it will bend immediately.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1u3V2TeQ4WPg2O3i81DJAtUSamFBQxJku)
And please wear safety glasses! I squirted a drop once, but thanks to protection nothing happened.
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Thanks for explaining the technique. I will have to try it one day.
It's always good to add something to my mental toolbox.
Thanks again,
Kevin
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Liking those guns very much Frank. You are a man of great stamina and patience to produce such a huge arsenal of Spandaus!
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Thanks so much for the explanation Frank. I seem to recall a bottle of some stuff that was supposed to blacken brass. I ended up pitching it years ago. Now I know what to look for, there should be something suitable out there. One look at those brass gun pieces and I want a stock of them, just not a stock of messed up ones.
sp
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Thank you!
Of course there is also a disadvantage: I cannot solder the parts. The tin would not change the color.
This is also valid for glue, so mounting before is not possible and the parts needs to be clean and should be degreased before blackening. That means mounting is only possible afterwards with CA.
Cheers,
Frank
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Those look great, Frank. Great way to do them in a large batch.
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Thanks Gaz, I'm lazy ;D
Landing gear
After the guns I decided to continue with the adjustment of the landing gear. It took longer the expected and must be done carefully to avoid scratches in the fuselage.
After shortening I fixed the mounting pins with soldering. The horizontal nickel silver strut is also soldered.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18LCMhuOTUNQV2bN3LhOCThYdwr40iwlU)
Plugged in temporarily:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aHQwre1yDaF29fKRcFngHTVlAbb8PN7V)
With wheels and axle it looks better:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LEI8ND8xROI9UnnKTkNu7303fLGbYzwz)
The other side:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yfRktI-cwcvgMPiORURrzXBBjYTb-pLC)
The distance axle to fuselage is according to the drawings now. Also in the side view it matches.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Fy-ikE64Z5OeHbH71zbaie7DGvRfH9ip)
The gear is primed with Gunze "Mr. Metal Primer" now and the gray green can follow soon.
I'm happy with the result, looks better then expected.
Cheers,
Frank
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You should be happy with how it looks Frank. It's beautiful work! I just noticed how cleanly painted all the tiny latches are on the fuselage too. Amazing detail painting, especially in 1/48.
I finally got my Gaspatch guns and rigging mounts today. They are really superb, thanks for the tip. They won't make it onto the Triplane but I'm looking forward to using them soon.
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Thank you Richie!
That painting is easy, because those parts are little PE buggers, glued on after painting. See them on the right (showed this pic some pages before):
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Dc3S2S-jMhjpWFIR4QjpRHwRzhPpJ-nD)
The Gaspatch parts are great - we live really in Golden Times regarding accessories :)
Cheers,
Frank
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Looking sweet, Frank! Your detail painting is excellent!
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Thanks Gaz!
Control horns
On this aircraft only 4 control horns are needed fro the tail plane, the rest is controled internally.
Eduard provided PE parts, but a bit long. I drilled a 0.284mm hole into 0.5mm brass pipes and soldered the pipes to the horns, as visible on the lowest. The I filed away the excess, so I got a stable connection for adding a "One End" turnbuckle, as shown on the right one.
On the PE set there are no spare horns, so I searched for one finished part on the floor the same time, as needed to build all. Damn!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DPDAmQznR0oOfm3b6VegjK6O2ZyYfnGC)
This soldering reminds me that I really like it, so I started something different. More soon!
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow. That's amazingly tiny!
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You continue to amaze me Frank, you must have incredible eyesight to make such tiny parts and be able to find them on the floor! ;D
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Thumbs up !
Terri
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I Truly don't know how you do this stuff in any scale! You are a Magician :o
RAGIII
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Thank you my friends!
Suspension
The landing gear was not yet finished, axle and suspension are missing. So let's continue on that one.
The base was a picture set of James Fahey of an Albatros D.V, thank you very much!
At first I need some washers for soldering. I don't want to ruin my punch and die set so I do it a different way.
I drilled 1mm holes in a brass PE stripe, cut 5 pieces and soldered on a 1mm brass as block. I trimmed it in my lathe to a round block.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ejimt18BRMy_G_Pir-FDz9mM1K4ZuM_S)
After desoldering I have 4 identical brass washers, to be soldered onto the nickel silver axle. Luckily I had a spare in the block, because I lost one.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1G0X_6XzYGWSQiWGOglvxpXSqF_PauVS1)
After clean up the axle is prepared:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1o8OhS-nuNnZgP-btKYMSs4zJ-pFhDrXI)
I painted the metal parts with grey green (Drooling Bulldog paint).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=10atXecrytpp2ldznO6OWNdhq6X9dcMf8)
After painting the lower sharp bend with leather color I connected the parts by using bright grey stretched sprue as rubber simulation. In the middle the brown leather paint is visible, I forgot a picture.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11oH40R6MPjmLUbEn9NADfnJJ1vyKKF4H)
And that is the view from top. I hope, the sprue can hold the heavy model! I secured it with CA.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_1LEzdowW7qMCUWnOZUDpBBvsHMmGPoE)
And the final view with wheels.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Yu62yu840yFQJPGr3XMNiBaSAGeC0pPn)
The tires are not painted. Should I left them as they are or paint them too?
I like the look of the fully scratched metal landing gear, even if the suspension is not working ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Thanks for another informative lesson in technique and another mind blowing demonstration of modeling skill.
Kevin
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I agree with Kevin: that is incredible modelling Frank - so realistic. With reference to the tyre colour I would leave them as they are.
Stephen.
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Incredible work on the gear and suspension Frank!
RAGIII
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Loving your work on the suspension, imho i’d be inclined to leave the tyres as i think they look great as they are
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Fantastic work Frank !
Terri
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Love that LG!
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Jaw dropping work! 😲👍👍👍
/Fredrik
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Thanks for explaining your fabrication of the brass washers. I never would have thought of that. I suppose the difference in the hardness of the brass versus the solder did not cause any machining problems?
End results look excellent.
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Wonderful modelling as always, Frank. but this won’t help you. For keeping some 20 Spandaus at home I called the cops. They‘ll jail you very soon for breaking the Kriegswaffenkontrollgesetz.
I‘ll send you a cake with a file...
Andreas
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Thank you Kevin, Stephen, Rick, Early Bird Fan, Terri, Gaz, Fredrik, Ken and Andreas for your continued support!
Thanks for explaining your fabrication of the brass washers. I never would have thought of that.
I hate to loose so much material with a trenching shovel, more waste than washers.
The idea come from a friend, who glues Evergreen sheets with white glue to get identical parts. So I modified that idea to solder brass to block. This works also for milling, see here more detailed on my Bristol:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9378.msg177275#msg177275
After "desoldering" the block you get tinned parts, perfect in my case but may be problematic, if the original brass color is needed.
An you own a lathe :D
I suppose the difference in the hardness of the brass versus the solder did not cause any machining problems?
I press the layers together with a wooden clamp during soldering, so the tin layers are thin. No problem on lathe or milling.
For keeping some 20 Spandaus at home I called the cops. They‘ll jail you very soon for breaking the Kriegswaffenkontrollgesetz.
If you include the ones on the finished biplanes then there are even more, 30 Spandaus and a lot of Vickers and Lewis guns too!
How many year Gaspatch have to stay in prison then? They export those even into none-EU countries!
Cheers,
Frank
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AWESOME WORK FRANK!!!!!!!!! Nothing much else I can say, just mind blowing skills!