forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Edo on October 23, 2012, 12:50:14 AM
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Hi all!
Has anyone started building the WNW Fokker Eindecker?
I am planning to start soon and I think it wolud be fun if I could have some company to direct me over the worst pit holes and such...
Has anyone started yet?
ciao
Edo
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I've just started mine tonight Edo, so we're both blundering along blindly but there is one already started a blog.. forgive me but I don't recall his name at the mo. ((Its Fokkerboy, about 10 posts down))::) Old age... laughs
Keith
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Well, Keith, "two is a company" ... ;)
And three is better still! I can't wait to see your build.
By the way, my Taurus model sparks has just arrived: they are pretty cool and I thing they'll be a great addition to the engine.
I'll show some pictures (sooner or later...)
Ciao
Edo
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Hi all!
Has anyone started building the WNW Fokker Eindecker?
I am planning to start soon and I think it wolud be fun if I could have some company to direct me over the worst pit holes and such...
Has anyone started yet?
ciao
Edo
I started mine almost the moment I received it. Here's the link. I hope to get a lot more done this weekend. It's an outstanding kit.
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=925.0 (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=925.0)
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Hi Fokker Boy!
I saw your thread: you are in for a great start and you are well ahead of me!
At the moment I am proceeding a bit random... I started the engine, overcoated the wings, started the cockpit...
The engine is beautiful, was wondering why not to sell it separatedly, but WNW has already thought the same... The rocker arms are very thin, after the third I broke I decided to replace it with copper wire, but it is impossible to mend the seal between the two halves of the engine... How did you do?
I am very afraid to broke also all the other thin part... And there are so many in the kit....(the cockpit is scarin in this regard) If you have a suggestion it is wery much welcome!
The wings surface is awsome! But the details are so thin I really don't know how to proceede as my standard preshade technique is useless, I fear... Again, any tip is most welcome!
Ciao
Edo
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Edo just show us what you have acomplished so far; photos please!!!!
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I haven't tackled the engine as yet, but the delicate cockpit side frames were scary to remove, and I'm still cleaning them up, prior to paint.
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Hi Guys, I've steamed ahead on mine it seems. I managed to clean up and work on the framework okay but was in constant fear of snapping them. As usual though make sure theyre clean of tags etc as WNW tolerances are tight on this one as usual.
The engine seam is a but of a bugger but I couldnt see anyway around apart from assembling dry the main halves and runing ligid cement donw the inside of the barrels with a brush sparingly. Minimising clean up on the outsside and to be honest as she's 3/4 cowled over I'll set the best looking barrels where they can be seen.
I got the rocker arms and pushrods cleaned up fine, I cut the moulding point on the rod first, cut away the sprue stub behind, cleaned everything up and paited and prepared befe cutting them off the sprue, Cleaning up and opening up the main casing where the rods enter seems essential to stop them flexing and...breaking.
Hope this helps guys.
Keith
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I often rest the sprues on a blob of plasticine before cutting out the more delicate parts to provide some support against flexing.
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Ian, your idea seems interesting, got to try it out...
In the meanwhile I have some pics for you:
here is the wing:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ALA01-2.jpg)
as you can see, the ribs are very very thin... how to preshade those? ???
Here is the engine:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore02-3.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore01-4.jpg)
As you can see, I drilled out the holes in the rocker arms and substituted the.... ::) don't have a clue how to call the 'stick' with copper wire but I mantained the bottom part.
This is the reverse of the engine where I added Taurs Model sparks. They are very good, but I installed them BEFORE the rocker arms, which turned out to be a mistake as some broke off (resin is of course very fragile).
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore04-2.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore03-2.jpg)
Any comment is very appreciated!
ciao
Edo
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As you can see, I drilled out the holes in the rocker arms and substituted the.... don't have a clue how to call the 'stick' with copper wire but I mantained the bottom part.
Hi Edo.
Pushrod is the word you are looking for
Cheers
Tony
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As to preshading the ribs a tip I picked up from a magazine a while back would be to prime the entire surface, preshade the ribs with a black (you decide the thickness of the line), then gently sand back the raised rib to the lighter primer colour and hey presto you have your light and dark shading.
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Preshading,I'm not sure how or even to attempt this, Apparently overpainted with opaque finish dopes the eindeckers may look okay drybrushed or using pastels/filters instead. Looking forwards to dirtying mine up though ::)
Keith
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here is the wing:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ALA01-2.jpg)
as you can see, the ribs are very very thin... how to preshade those? ???
Aizu has 0.4 mm wide masking tape. I use it for postshading in 72nd scale. And I suppose it would be just fine here, too.
BTW, how do you find the engine cylinders built from two halves. Is the joint very much evident? (I see it surely at the photos, but how it is in reality?) I am contemplating the option to replace the entire star with resin from Vector.
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Interesting observations Edo. Those are called pushrods. If I get this kit, I will follow your blog. As it is I have a stash of other WNW kits that beckon as well. Your engine looks great so far and I see what you mean about the ribs being thin. Des Uses a pencil maybe that technique would serve you better rather than pre-shading. I prefer to preshade, but; in some circumstances like the present, it may not be the best.
Good Luck
Mark
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Hey Mark!
How are you going, my friend?
Yes, pencils are what I were thinking too...
Last night I freed one side of the cockpit frame... Scary business indeed.... I used Ian suggestion but I used bluetack insted of plasticine, maybe this is why I am not completely satisfied with the results, in fact the bluetack is too soft and sticky so when you cut the frame free the bluetack sinks and the rod follow suit bending and (almost, for my luck) braking.
Anyway all went well and sanding the frame tourned out to be much less troublesome than I thougt (picture to follow).
Ciao
Edo
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Edo, I actually found it easier to cut out sections of sprue sometimes before detaching the parts. Always cutting so the moulding stubs or projections in the srue point up and I tend to use a corner of the bench or mat to position things over to cut as close as possible as opposed to the flat of the bench/mat top.
I use a xacto style blade instead of clippers where things are tight to detach parts and try to work out which locations are stressed by which when cutting, meaning if you cut *a* does it casue *b* or *c* to be squashed or pulled. Often cutting out a section or stub from the sprue alleviates thi issue.
Example with the fuselage side frames I cut the 3 lower mounts with a blade, then clipped the centre run of sprue from between, then each of the four top points (the fact the section of sprue was removed meant the part could flex and not butt up against the stub and cause pressure). Then carefully cut the front mount and trimmed it so it wouldnt push when I cut the final point away.
Not trying to show anyone how to suck eggs, just my way, it worked this time :D
Keith
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I saw a tip on a build log somewhere else where someone heated a knife and melted the sprue. Never tried it myself but it might be an idea.
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I agree with Keith, carefully removing parts of the sprue could help. Alos, detaching the sprue from the weakest part of the component firts means that those bits are free of stress when it comes to detaching the other parts?
I also use a small block of wood on which I rest the sprue so that the sprue gate is flat on the wood, then use a sharp blade to snip the gate. I suppose a combination of all methods is my approach.
When I was younger I used to just twist off the parts until the sprue gates snapped!!!!
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:) Yes twisting was my preferred method too!!
and, actually, I sometimes still think it is the best....
the hot blade seems cool !!! ;D (sorry could not resiste that!!)
and also the "butcher's" block seems interesting...
I'll give it a try!
ciao
Edo
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When I was younger I used to just twist off the parts until the sprue gates snapped!!!!
Yep!
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To cut the parts from the sprue I use brandnew razor-sharp thin shaving blades. At least here in my country they are still available:
http://idrogeria.pl/show.php?id=2762
The minimal possible thickness is the key to success. I have no problems at all with possible damage. I would never use Exacto or Excel blade knives, IMHO these blades are too thick.
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I just switched over to using scalpels and I must be applying too much pressure while simultaneously flexing the blade because I'm going through blades like never before when lopping off parts from the tree. It's a bit unsettling when they go flying but so far I haven't had to extract one from myself yet.
Cheers,
Chris
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I just switched over to using scalpels and I must be applying too much pressure while simultaneously flexing the blade because I'm going through blades like never before when lopping off parts from the tree. It's a bit unsettling when they go flying but so far I haven't had to extract one from myself yet.
Cheers,
Chris
thats why I use an exacto type knife to remove parts, havin one or two near misses with a snapped blade hitting me in the face close to an eye.
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Wow Chris!
Now, that's scary!!
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Hi gentelmen!
I used the hot blade technique and I have to admit it works perfectly!
Thank you for the tip!
I have some update for you of the experiments I did during the week end...
Here is my attempt at the 'swirls' on the cowl:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/interno-2.jpg)
I used a base coat of titanium silver + 10% flat black, a wash of china black ink (a 20% water dilution) and then I used a silver pencil, here is the pic of it
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/matita_01.jpg)
What do you think? I fear I have to practice more...
Next a pic of the left cockpit frame
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/frame_01.jpg)
and the engine...
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore_01.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore_02.jpg)
... and the seat.
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/sedia.jpg)
I was disappointed by the dash board. Its detail are very soft and my expectation were much more higher (so even WNW does not everything perfect, and this should be a great stimoulus for any competitor willing to challenge them on the market...Roden do you hear?)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/dash_board_01.jpg)
so I decided to scratch build a new one, well I am very proud of the result: what do you think? (on the right habd side is the pulsameter).
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/board_01.jpg)
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It's all coming along nicely Edo. I haven't worked up the nerve to attempt a model build involving a swirled metal effect so I tip my hat to you for tackling it.
Cheers,
Chris
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Really nice work, Edo. Lovely fuel distributor panel. I'm building mine as the Marine Jasta EI as seen on the last page of Windsock DF on the EIII.
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Great work on the dash Edo.
Are you going to redo the cowl swirls? It sort of sounded like you might.
Andrew
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Hi all!
Thank you for the nice comments!
Andrew, well, yes I was thinking of redoing the swirls.
Next time I'll try to make them more thin and sharp, fortunately the pencil I used is water based so I hope it will be pretty easy to remove what I did before.
Ciao
Edo
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Great start, Edo. I'm looking forward to watching this one unfold.
Cheers,
Bud
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Looking good so far. Stick with it, as I'll be looking forward to the finished kit.
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Hello Edo:
I agree with the rest here, it is coming along nicely. The dash is a bit soft on the details isn't it? I will be watching to see how your scratchbuilt one will turn out. Looks good so far.
Best
Mark
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On some early E's, I've noticed that the ammo box is also swirled, but not always. Is there some sort of rule as to when this was done, and when it was not?
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On some early E's, I've noticed that the ammo box is also swirled, but not always. Is there some sort of rule as to when this was done, and when it was not?
Well to stick a wooden spoon into the mix and stir. It looks painted Fokker grey/green to me on the science museum example?
Well I would place an image here but Photobucket seems to be totally messed up now.... sighs.... Why can't they leave things alone?
had to switch to firefox... and switch back to the old Photobucket... to be asked if I want to change would have been nice...lol
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/kornbeef/IMG_5431-1.jpg)
Anyway theres the pic
Keith
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I just had the same &^&$^%#^& experience with Photobucket; had to switch back to the "old" version as well. I sent them a "snotgram" and requested help as they seem to indicate that the option of the "old" system is temporary. Let me know if you figure out how to use the newer version. Old people hate change!! >:( >:(
Cheers,
Lance
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The sworl question evolves - there's none on the cowl in the pic.....
Steve
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I have crystal clear photos, unfortunately they're in an Albatros productions book, so I'm reluctant to upload them. Some photos show swirls, some don't. I have no idea what's what.
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If the swirls are indeed the result of polishing the metal, how much they show up on photos depends on where the light is coming from, how brightly lit it is, and how contrasty the glass plate negative is. I would guess that all cowlings started out swirled, as part of the standardized manufacturing process. Oxidation and dirt could also lessen the effect as the aircraft aged.
Here's a modern example. NASA's first Boeing 747 Shuttle Carrier Aircraft came from American Airlines, and NASA stripped the American texts and polished the metal underneath. Some photos show the "ghost" of the American titles very clearly, and others don't show it at all.
(http://cdn-www.airliners.net/aviation-photos/middle/1/0/0/1252001.jpg)
(http://cdn-www.airliners.net/aviation-photos/middle/2/2/8/0069822.jpg)
Peter
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The swirls were intentionally applied for aesthetics by the Fokker company, and were not the default appearance of polishing/machining. The photo below is an example of what we're referring to.
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy162/FokkerDrI/References/Swirls.jpg)
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Yes, I read they were an attempt to break down the reflectiveness of the ali, I didnt sworl my interior as I know A. F. was a bit of a tightwad and wouldnt spend money or time doing something that wouldnt be needed ;D
Keith
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Yes, I read they were an attempt to break down the reflectiveness of the ali, I didnt sworl my interior as I know A. F. was a bit of a tightwad and wouldnt spend money or time doing something that wouldnt be needed ;D
Keith
I'll have to double check my references, but it seems that almost all the photos I saw had the swirls on all of the interior metal fuselage parts, but just not always on the ammo box. Your model looks very impressive regardless Keith, but I'd kind of like to answer this question (for my own needs), before I glue my fuselage closed. Sorry for stepping on your thread Edo.
Regards,
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Seems to be an awful complicated process - why not just paint the whole thing? That being said the pattern should not be confused with the hammering or tapping such as the pattern on Sopwith cowlings (Theres another term its just not coming to me) of sheet metal seen on other types.
Steve
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Mmmm...
No hijacking at all, my friends!
Actually very interesting discussion....
Ciao
Edo
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Hi guys!
Time for a quick update.
I know that I am diverging from the kit's instructions, but I am too much tempted by spoked weels not to give it a try.
First I build a jig:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/goniometro1.jpg)
As you can see I deviated from Steven's great tutorial. In fact I wanted to make the front spokes and the abck ones not allined, so for the front I used the lower holes, and for the back the upper ones: this way the spokes diverged by 10 degrees.
This is the result:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ruota1.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ruota2.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ruota3.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ruota4.jpg)
Not the best pictures, I know, but the results seem incouraging....
Just a fiew notes:
-each side has 2 spokes per point one passing left and the other passing right the hub,
-the size of the hub itself is very critical: too long and it will become virtually impossible to join the rims,
-a very long monofilament is needed (almost 4 mt), so consider this before starting,
-maybe I used a too thick mono (0,2mm) as this effects also how the rims go together, as the thickness of the spokes makes it more difficult to join the rims afterwords,
-joining the rim is, IMO, the most difficult part as a big force has to be applied to bend the spokes and it is not easy to find a clamp the size of the protractor (I cut the weel free before joining the rims which I did afterwords with normal clamps),
-in the light of the above, mybe it is useful not to tension the spokes too much, but then how much tension becomes critical and not easy to guess....
Hope this helps, and also I hope you could find some solution to my troubles... I still have one more wheel to go... :o
Ciao
Edo
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Edo:
That wheel looks very good to me. When you have it painted, I think it will be very sharp. Monofilament rigging never looks right until it's colored, IMHO. Good job, and thanks for giving others the courage to maybe try this! I really like the look of spoked wheels on some models, but have always been nervous about trying this. You give me hope! ;) Good luck with the other one! ;D
Regards,
Bob
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The spoking looks great. Nice jig
Steve
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Hi all!
thank you for the kid comments!
still struggling with the second wheel... my average is 4 attempts to get 1 right... so I have still one to go...
In frustration I took some pics of the interior... hope you like it...
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/c3.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/c1.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/c2.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/c4.jpg)
ciao
Edo
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Lovely pit Edo, nicely done.
Andrew
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Very well done. Good luck on wheel number 4
Steve
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Edo,
As always beautifully done cockpit my old friend. The spoking on wheel # 1 looks excellent,no doubt #2 will follow shortly.Keep up the outstanding works.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hi guys!
Andrew, Steve & Gregory: thank you for the incouragment!!
Just a small update, but very significant for me: I find a way to hold the 2 rims of the wheel and it tourned out indeed better!
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ruota2-1.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/ruota1-1.jpg)
I used 4 copper wires to screw a little by little the two rims togheter. Tightening the copper wire is easy and allows to properly center the rims in the process also you can tight it real hard pressing the rims togheter very well (someting that I was not able to do in the first apptempt).
Have a nice day!
ciao
Edo
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p.s.
Yes, the axile is a toothpic.
And yes, it is glued... not my intention though...
I have to redrill the hole in the axile (a Bic pencil refill), but it is very soft, so no problem here...
;)
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Very nice work on the wheel, Edo. I look forward to seeing it on the plane.
Cheers,
Bud
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Very impressive! I don't know how you fellows manage such small detail.
Cheers,
Chris
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Excellent work, Edo!
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Intricate work Edo, nicely done (again ;)).
Andrew
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Great wheel work.
Steve
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Hi guys!
Thank you for the kind comments!
I am finishing the undercarriage, but before gluing everything togheter I wantend to better understand the rigging.
In fact WNW scheme is unsactisfactory, for me at least, and I cannot understand how to rig the control horns and the where the wind wrapping rig are supposed to be connected to.
The control horn are to be connected to the wings or to the cockpit? And if they are supposed to connect the cokpit, where the rig is supposed to pass the fusolage? And if so where the wing wrapping is supposed to connect on the undercarriage?
Do ypu guys have some good picture or scheme to understand the whole set up?
Thank you very much, ciao
Edo
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Hi All!
I hope all of you had a great start in the new year!
I managed to get some fine hours of modelling, and my Eindecker is apporoaching take off!
I have some pictures for you.
First of all I replaced the turnbuckles on the cabane sturds with brass tubing:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/robino_zps3eadabcc.jpg)
As far as the rigging is concerned I used Eduard rigging diagram which is much more clear (for me at last) and all whent smooth... Unfortunately, somewhere in the process I broke and lost the pulley of the cabane, which had to be rebuilt from scratch... After some work (and having lost a fiew) I come out with a satisfactory pulley:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/pulley01_zpsf80a964d.jpg)
(I'll show you some better pics of the plane when it is finished, don't whanto to unveil too much now! ;))
Then I ended the engine:
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore33_zps6fdd6628.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore34_zpsfd66a45f.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore35_zpsa60b920d.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore36_zps135bfa71.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/motore37_zpsb208adbe.jpg)
This is all for now!
ciao
Edo
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Hi Edo
I am at the rigging stage of my Eindekker and I am completely confused by the diagram in the WnW instructions. i don't suppose you could post the diagram you used, i am sure i am not the only one who would find it very helpful!
Regards
Tony
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Nice work, that Oberusel looks great.
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Edo,
Outstanding works my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great work and nice save on the replacement pulley!!
Steve
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Excellent progress, Edo! That engine looks fantastic.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hi all!
Thank you all for the kind comments!
Yuo've been so much more than kind!
Tony, i just downloaded the instructions from the Eduars site, in my opinion they are fsr simpler and linear to follow. If you can't download them, p.m. Me and i'll send a copy to you! ;)
Ciao
Edo
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Edo,
Nice to see you back in your regular great form!
Very nice looking engine, and your Pulley rescue looks real good to me.
Cheers,
Lance :)
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Hi all!
Thank you all for the kind comments!
Yuo've been so much more than kind!
Tony, i just downloaded the instructions from the Eduars site, in my opinion they are fsr simpler and linear to follow. If you can't download them, p.m. Me and i'll send a copy to you! ;)
Ciao
Edo
Thanks Edo, will give it a try
Tony
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Hi all!
Thank you all for the kind comments!
Yuo've been so much more than kind!
Tony, i just downloaded the instructions from the Eduars site, in my opinion they are fsr simpler and linear to follow. If you can't download them, p.m. Me and i'll send a copy to you! ;)
Ciao
Edo
Found and downloaded. Things are MUCH clearer now! Thanks for the advice
Tony
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Hey Tony!
Glad to be of use! ;)
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Hi all!
I am here fully loaded with pics of my Eindecker, which I have been able to finish in the last fiew days!
I hope yuo'll enjoy them!
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/top02_zps385cdc42.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/lato04-3_zps5592f5a9.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/top03eq_zps5c7c4229.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/lato01-6_zps54d256dc.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/lato02-6_zps35145186.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/top01-2_zpsf9f0a5ba.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/mitraglia01-1_zps0de70d9c.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/dettagliomotore01_zps8fac1f1f.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/front02-1_zps85206307.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/dettagliomotore02_zps80b94942.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/dettagliomotore04_zpse8020d22.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/dettagliomotore05_zps8c55054b.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/mitraglia02-1_zpsf45bfec3.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/tail02_zps963acaff.jpg)
(http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af290/Edo0606/sotto02-5_zps0832b8e0.jpg)
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Gorgeous Edo, simply gorgeous! Your finish and weathering are superb, and the Eindecker looks like a machine in the field. Well done! ;D
Just looking at the rigging frightens me. ;) You have done an excellent job on what must have been a very challenging task!
Regards,
Bob
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Edo,
Bob has said it for me. The highlighting and rigging are beautifully done; an outstanding job Sir! I'll be referring to this when I get mine underway.
Cheers,
Lance
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WOW! that is stunning i love the finish and weathering. superb
michael
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Very dramatic finish!! Looks great and it all came together quickly.
Steve
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She's absolutely stunning, Edo! Brilliant job on the weathering and rigging.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Edo:
I have to echo the sentiments of the others here. Very nicely done. I think the laced wheels is really a nice touch and gives it that early war look and feel. What's next?
Best
Mark
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Edo,
I forgot to congratulate you on those outstanding wheels, you've certainly mastered that technique. Good on you for trying something new, and the great results!
Lovely Build.
Cheers,
Lance :)
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Congratulations Edo on producing a stunning model, all aspects of this model are brilliant with the wheels adding that finishing touch, extremely well done.
Des.
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Beautiful work Edo from the weathering to the new pulley/rigging. She looks great, well done :)
Andrew
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Edo,
Congratulations my old friend she's one stunning Eindecker. Outstanding project from beginning to end. Not to mention a very well weathered machine. Well Done!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Stunning is definitely the word to describe your model. Such clean, precise work!
Cheers,
Chris
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Hmmm, that looks great! It makes mine look like a five year old built it. The shading is great as is the rigging. You also did wonders with the wheels.
Cheers,
John
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Thank you all for the kind comments!
It feels great to be part of such a friendly community!
I am very happy! ;D
Thank you again!
Ciao
Edo
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A Cracker Edo nice work. ;)
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Hey, well done Edo! -
Looks truly excellent with a great standard of finish all over.
Regards
Dave