forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Scottypos on April 03, 2018, 01:29:06 PM
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Hello,
I thought you all might like to watch me get myself into trouble with this very expensive Wingnut Wings kit. This is going to be a lot of firsts for me. Most expensive model ever, first WWI kit, first airplane build, first build log post, first attempt at painting something to look like wood out of plastic, I could go on and on, so lets get on with it because I'm excited.
I've actually been messing around with stuff in scale since I was 9, some 382 years ago. I started with simple HO scale stuff, and have been bouncing around ever since, but I never seemed to land on airplane models (pun not really intended). Finally I discovered Wingnut Wings a while back, but I never could seem to bring myself to splurge on one of their kits. Then one day I came into a bunch of money and decided it was time. I ran across the Felixstowe on E Bay and got a good deal from the seller. He also suggested I post my build here. So here I am. I hope you like it.
To pay homage to the moderators, here's a picture of the massive box for this fine collection of plastic, and this sucker is HEAVY!!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/57_ca849f8b-7fa5-468f-ac10-11eae504b72e_1024x1024.jpg)
The forum mentors would also like me to show some of the sprues, but unfortunately, the first thing I like to do is rip all those plastic trees to shreds. It always seems that if I leave the parts on the sprues, they get damaged. So I run through the instructions and cut and glue a lot of the parts together and pile everything into sub assemblies. Yeah, I'm one of those guys that can't follow instructions, so I end up with this...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180324_114703.jpg)
So far, all I have done to actually build anything per the instructions is lay down a base coat of Tamyia XF-60 Dark Yellow on all the interior woodwork. After a lot of research on all the fine folks who post how they do their woodwork, this seemed like the best starting point for some of the weirdest model painting ever...oil paints. Now I didn't actually go to Bob Ross' Web site for guidance, it just didn't seem like the right thing to do. The closest I've ever come to putting oil paint to plastic is that technique of puking little dots of oil paint all over like miniature confetti to break up a monotone paint job. works great, but this is different, using it to make fake wood. I hope it works, but I'll have to wait until next weekend to find out. Till then, see ya.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180311_084813.jpg)
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Hello and welcome!
So why to start with an easy kit? Because it is a wise decision....but THIS is not wise...and I like it. I wish you lot of fun and inspiration here.
Bye,
Manni
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Off to a great start! :) Look forward to the next installment!
Cool to watch those big models actually being built (2 Felixstowes now, a Gotha and AEG going on here!)
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Great. Nice to see another F.2A started. I will be gladly watching and cheering here. As Justin wrote - do not be intimidated, this one (as all WNW) does really fall together as Lego bricks. But I do suggest to follow the instructions - those guys at WNW do really know what they mean, when putting those spectacular booklets together.
And as one who managed to complete one of these spectacular kits I will be glad to answer any questions you might have. You are welcome to post them directly as PM as I do not always follow all the build threads regularly.
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Welcome! Have fun... Looking forward to sharing it wit ja.
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Great start, looking forward to your progress on this giant.
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A very unique first post on our Forum, welcome here and also welcome to the hobby of World War One Aircraft Modelling! Starting with the "Felix" is a brave and very challenging step however all the help, advice, and knowledge you'll ever need is here within the ranks of our Membership, and all you need to do is ask.
Enjoy the Build, and I'll be following along with great interest!
Cheers,
Lance
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I am glad you decided to do this as your first build log! I will follow closely and am sure if you have any questions during the process some of our talented Modelers will help out!
RAGIII
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Good luck! A brave attempt for your first go but I'm sure you'll do a marvellous job!
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Scotty,
That's one heck of a first project here. Best of luck to you my friend. I'm looking forward to following along. As others have said,if you have any questions feel free to ask. There's beaucoupe talented models here ready willing to help out.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Holy cow everyone! Thank you sooooo much for all the support! I'm feeling way more comfortable with the build already! Don't get me wrong, I'm an accomplished model builder and I've been accused of being a rivet counter, so detail at this level is not intimating to me, however I've never attempted a kit where the amount styrene is measured by the pound. This is one monster kit. Every time I look at the wing span, terrifying pictures of old ladies dressed like penguins wielding yard sticks enter my head. I'm thinking an industrial sized container of Gorilla Glue will be needed to hold those massive wings up.
Thanks again for all your support and I can't wait to continue painting next weekend. Just for fun, here's the extreme opposite of my modeling adventures for your enjoyment...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/Truck_1.jpg)
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Holy cow everyone! Thank you sooooo much for all the support! I'm feeling way more comfortable with the build already! Don't get me wrong, I'm an accomplished model builder and I've been accused of being a rivet counter, so detail at this level is not intimating to me, however I've never attempted a kit where the amount styrene is measured by the pound. This is one monster kit. Every time I look at the wing span, terrifying pictures of old ladies dressed like penguins wielding yard sticks enter my head. I'm thinking an industrial sized container of Gorilla Glue will be needed to hold those massive wings up.
Thanks again for all your support and I can't wait to continue painting next weekend. Just for fun, here's the extreme opposite of my modeling adventures for your enjoyment...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/Truck_1.jpg)
I had the same feeling about the amount of plastic (in pounds) and glue (in cans) supossedly needed to hold it all together. It is not the case, I even did not use any glue to attach the upper wing outer panels - they hold on pure friction of the massive tabs and the strength of rigging and struts. But what you will surely use in large amount will be the paint, especially when compared with an amount possibly required for that lovelly little truck-gem you have just showed us! Gorgeous.
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Wow!! No dipping your toe. You've jumped in the deep end and are swimming well!!
Steve
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You are a braver man than I. Have this kit as part of a duellist set and no wayt will I tackle it until I get a few more WW1 subjects under my belt. Will be following with great interest.
Gary
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Welcome to the forum and sharing your build, as you have probably figured out, WWI aircraft modeling is unlike any other modeling venture, you sure picked a good one to start with. I too have this kit on the bench, still in the box and it doth beckon. I will follow along as you progress in the build.
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Hello, Scotty, and welcome to the Forum!
We've got lots of great Forumites here, always ready to help, encourage and assist. Don't hesitate to call. Looks like you're well underway on this voyage and, if your gigantic truck is any indication, you'll make your destination in good stride. Just two small suggestions if you don't mind: keep a close eye on your various component parts as, without the sprue-stamped part numbers and a myriad of items, things might get a little...challenging; and have a really fun time building this behemoth.
You've already got a bunch of guys on your side, and I'm happy to join the cheering section. Good Luck! 8)
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Hey there everyone, and thanks again for all your offers of support.
Twas a busy weekend (taxes finally and a massive "honey do list"), but I did manage to have my fun. I broke out my old tubes of oil paint, with the caps impossibly glued on with old dry paint, and went to town on all the interior wood in this beast of an armed flying yacht.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180323_165807.jpg)
I thought about actually doing some research, well I did a little. I wanted to know what type of woods the actual plane was built out of so I could make an attempt to recreate it. I ended up just seeing everyone else's fine work and couldn't think about anything but getting started on mine. I noticed that most had a combination of darker woods on the frames and structural members, and lighter colors on the floor boards. Good enough for me, time to start.
I did make one big diversion from the norm that I was seeing in everyone else's work, as well as the instructions. The bottom of the plane is black. I hated it in every picture I saw. It was always this beautiful, pleasantly hued, natural looking shades of wood, and this monotone, stark black on the bottom. So the rebel in me said, "no way" and I went for a dark brown wood instead.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180323_165929.jpg)
For the colors of oil paint..
A base solid color of Yellow Ochre
This looked so weird when it went down that I panicked a little, but went with it anyway
Burnt Umber for the dark wood
Burnt Sienna for the light stuff
Basically I just messed around with the paint in a few different ways, but it all ended up coming out the same way. It mixed the base and the next color and put subtle lines of different hues that looked just like wood grain. Wonderful!
I do have a couple issues. Seems the wood grain goes in the wrong direction in a few places. I didn't actually notice it until I looked at the pictures I took. Also, I may have overworked the paint in a few places, creating a whole different color and loosing some of the wood grain effect.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180323_165956.jpg)
Two tone painting like this is a little tough. It tends to bleed over into each tone. It's likely my poor choice of brushes that's the cause, but next time it'll be a trip to the craft store to get some cheapo stiff brushes in various sizes to make things a little easier to do.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180324_114540.jpg)
Overall I'm happy with the way things turned out. I'm a little miffed at how the oil paint is so thick and that it's covering some of the fine detail, but I'll have to learn those little tweaks on the next few models. I really like the look of the fine wood grain. I considered adding larger grain work with a detail brush, as well as maybe some knots and stuff, but I'm way too lazy. I checked the parts today when I got home from work, and they are still way wet. I hope things will dry up by next weekend so I can start poking paint at all those fine details after a protective coat of satin varnish.
P.S, Got some goodies to improve an already fine model. Jeez I'm a detail lush.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180407_073504_1.jpg)
Take care everyone
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Your wood looks great! After my class about orthochromatic film regarding the Albatros D's, I'm wondering about all WWI dark-looking wood.
Gaz
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"Jeez I'm a detail lush."
I'm much the same way but, in my case, I've got the tendency but not much of the talent. And who would've thought: decals for leather? ???
All is looking good so far. Good luck as you progress through this "flying, armed yacht!" 8)
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Your wood effect looks nicely done. One thing about the oils think of them as more of a stain over an acrylic base. The idea is to remove most of the pigment leaving the impression of the wood. Makes things a tad less thick, although I must say I don't see the "thickness" in your photos.
RAGIII
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Hello GazzaS,
I did wonder about all the dark wood as well. My limited knowledge about wood tells me that dark woods are generally very hard and heavy, not what I'd choose to build a plane with. However with lighter woods there are a whole lot of different types with all the different features. I did find a reference to Mahogany, it seems to have been the wood they used to put the lateral slats on the outer skin of the hull. It's a lighter wood, yet hard and flexible, perfect for boat and plane building. When you varnish it, it can get quite dark, but more of a red than a brown I'd think. I'm going to do a little more research for the outside before I paint it.
Hello RAGIII and Trackpad,
Thanks for the tips. Are you thinking I should thin the paint a little? The paint tends to build up in the cracks and crevices of the details and that's the aggravating part because it's hard to clean out and not damage the rest of the finish. Next time I"m thinking about a much thinner and lighter coat, and then darkening it with washes and filters, but I hope the grain will come out with thinner paint. The problem isn't too serious. I'm glad you like how it turned out.
Yeah, leather decals. I've never upholstered anything with a decal before, but I'll give it a try and see how it turns out. It might be easier to just paint it, but this build is all about playing with new things for me.
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Hi,
Here's the link to the Wingnut Wings "Hints and Tips" page. Go to the bottom right corner and you'll see a short demo of using oils to replicate wood grain: http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/hintsandtips . I've used the method, but not recently. However, it worked nicely back in the day and, with other methods, can be used to give a pretty good rendition of plywood and solid wood. A Google search of "oil paints technique for plywood" might chase up a few more advanced methods.
Good Luck! 8)
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Thanks for the link Trackpad, by the way, luv the name you chose, I was a M109 Field Artillery Mechanic so I know track pads well. My guess is that you're an armor modeler as well?
Anyway, thanks for the link. I've been to WNW's site a few times and never ran across their tips section. I'll be hanging out there for a while. Google was a great source for getting me started.
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Thanks for the link Trackpad, by the way, luv the name you chose, I was a M109 Field Artillery Mechanic so I know track pads well. My guess is that you're an armor modeler as well?
Hey, a gunner-type guy! You Mechs are a real boon to the SP guns and our Armour vehicles. I was RCAC for quite a while and got involved with museum pieces like Centurions, M113s, Lynxes and the like. And yes, I do armour builds as well as aircraft, a ship or two and one lonely dinosaur. Here's a turretless Stuart V light tank of the 8th (Princess Louise's) New Brunswick Hussars, Italy, 1944:
(https://i.imgur.com/ROScG9g.jpg)
Glad that the link may prove useful to you. Continued good luck to you with the Felix! 8)
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Flying boat looks great!
A lot of thought and practise goes into the wood replication , next you'll be trying to make knots...!
As far as the black in the bottom of the fuse , its prolly a coating like the stuff on Hansa floats. It would most likely obscure a lot of the wood grain it is applied to.
I wouldn't want to do one of these in wood decals!
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Hey Trackpad, T
hat's a sharp looking Stuart! Can't say I've ever seen one without a turret. A very unique build to be sure. I have a half built Stuart in the basement. I went nuts on it trying to account for every detail and lost interest in it. I got most of the interior done and started detailing the outside. it started out as the really old Tamiya kit and I ended up basically replacing the entire kit with after market parts. I'll dig it up and snap a couple pics for you.
I did like the big guns, but I played with the engine and drive train more than the gun itself. I did get to fire the 8 inch before the phased them out. Nearly knocked me on my ass. That's an amazing piece of hardware. I wanted to keep working on the "toys" after I got out but I never found a museum or club in Colorado that restores the classics. That would be fun.
Hey krow,
Thanks for the info on the hull coating. I guessed that may have been what the black paint was for and I was thinking about trying a thick, off black, with a little brown, wash to recreate it, or just give a nod that it's there, while still making it a little interesting with various tones.
I hear ya on the decals. I thought about doing the frames with decals, but that didn't last long. To do all those little squares entered my mind as well, yeah, not. Way too time consuming.
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Hey Trackpad,
Here's a couple shots of my Stuart. It's mostly Tiger Models aftermarket parts and a little scratch building. I'm waiting on someone to make an engine kit for it at this point because I wanted to go all out on it. I just haven't seen anyone do an engine yet and I'm not really interested in trying to scratch build one, yet.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180414_104509.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180414_104442_1.jpg)
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...but I digress. I'm like people who are distracted by shiny objects, I'm distracted by miniature objects.
The oil paint seems mostly dry. There's one part that just doesn't seem to want to dry completely. It's still turning my fingers a little brown when I handle it. I'm too impatient so I boxed it all up yesterday, with a bunch of stuff I want to put a layer of gray on, and it's off to load up the airbrush with some semigloss for a nice protective layer over the oil paint.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180324_114726.jpg)
All that dried overnight, and this morning I got up early and started poking the parts with some detail painting. Vallejo makes some outstanding "Metal Color" paint that goes on very nicely with a brush. Tamyia paint, me and my airbrush just love them, but they are awful for brush painting. I chose the Vallejo Burnt Iron to pick out all the metal details on the interior. I like this color because it is a nice shade that is somewhere near to wrought iron and old steel. I also bought some copper from this same line, but they didn't have any brass. So I got a bottle of AK's Xtreme Metal Pale Brass. Wait, what? $12 for a little bottle of brass paint? Yup, wow, ok, this snit better be good. I needed it for some brass artillery shells anyway.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180324_114610.jpg)
Luv the little gunner's seat in the front, but jeez I'd bet another WNW kit that I'll break it off before I close up the interior.
Now, so far I am really liking the WNW kit. Everything fits together perfectly and the detail is truly exquisite, but what is with these fuel tanks? There's a fine lip around the top of the tanks and microscopic rivet detail around the tank itself. The way they molded it, there's an impossible line all the way around the tank. I've already obliterated most of the rivet detail and I'm worried about the lip at that top as I try to eliminate the line. I'm going to go get some of those rivet decals to recreate that detail, but if I damage the lip, there's not going to be much I can do to replace it. I wish WNW had done end caps here.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180414_083325.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180414_083305.jpg)
I'm going to poke at some more details today if I get the time, and I'll yak at ya some more after.
Thanks for checkin' in. Take care
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Not tryna be lippy about the lip , but maybe check some completed Felix models to see how much is visible.
Going well , good work.
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Hey there krow,
Thanks for the lip, I could use some because according to my wife, I gave her all my lip when she said I had to go do yard work instead of building models, chuckles. Looking around the net for other builds just makes my head big. There are so many fine modelers out there, I have to try to one up them and make mine look better.
I did look at a bunch of interiors and in all of them the seam is gone and no apparent damage to the lip. It's odd, the instructions actually show the seam on their drawings, but I know it ain't supposed to be there. How these modelers work those seams so....seamlessly... is beyond my technical prowess. I'll play with mine a little more and see if I can erase it.
Not much done on detail painting today. Just continuing to pick out all the metal bits, and decided to paint the cover on the wireless cabinet. That cabinet and table beckons me to do detailing there. I'd love to open up the cabinet and spread out some radio gadgetry on the table, but WWI radios in 1/32nd scale don't seem to be available. Anyone know where a guy might find some?
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180401_080714.jpg)
Enjoy the rest of what's left of your weekends, and thanks again for having a peek.
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I think those tanks stand on end in the airframe. So use some .005" plastic card cut in a circle on top of the tank, no more seam.
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.....
I chose the Vallejo Burnt Iron to pick out all the metal details on the interior. I like this color because it is a nice shade that is somewhere near to wrought iron and old steel. I also bought some copper from this same line, but they didn't have any brass. So I got a bottle of AK's Xtreme Metal Pale Brass. Wait, what? $12 for a little bottle of brass paint? Yup, wow, ok, this snit better be good. I needed it for some brass artillery shells anyway.
....
Hi,
I've been following your Felixstowe build and you're doing a great job! I noticed your comment about using Vallejo metal paints, which I also use, and thought you'd like to know they do make a brass paint though it's not in the same series as their Burnt Iron. Bright Brass Metallic is in their Model Air line and is just a few bucks for a small bottle. I have some and it looks great. I apply it over a silver or aluminum base coat.
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/val71067.htm
Cheers,
Eric
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hey krow,
I'll give it a try, I think I have some...somewhere. Two of the tanks stand on end and the third lays on it's side.
Hey Eric,
Thanks for the tip. I do like the Model Air line for brush painting. The stuff goes on smooth and covers well. I already bought the $12 bottle of brass and I do like it. seems like it'll spray on as well as it brushes on. I never though about a silver base. I'll give that a try when I'm looking to do some bright shiny brass..
Thanks guys.
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Welcome to the forum, nice start on your flying boat.
Giuseppe
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Your interior is coming along nicely. I am enjoying watching your progress and your lighthearted writing style ;D
RAGIII
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Good morning everyone, and happy weekend.
Thanks for the welcome Giuseppe.
I'm glad you like the interior so far RAGIII, and yeah, I'm quite the goofball. I just hope everyone will let me know if I get out of control. I tend to do that from time to time.
I've been messing around a little bit during the week, but not getting a whole lot done. The kit I bought, coming from a previous owner, I was a little concerned about parts damage. Naturally, after getting the kit, the first thing I did was inspect every single part. To my surprise, aside from a few stress marks, only one part in the entire kit was broken. It was a water manifold pipe on one of the engine sprues. Even odder, was that it was completely destroyed.
I snapped a picture of the broken part and sent it off to WNW. Quickly, I got a reply. It really impresses me when a company, especially a model manufacturer, takes the time to interact with their fans. The reply was rather short, just an acknowledgement and what looked like a shipping order/notification. I figured I'd see a replacement part eventually.
To my surprise, a rather large envelope arrived in the mail last week. Bewildered, I tore open the package to find and entire engine sprue!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_379db03e-59b0-4f24-9b18-c44103361394.jpg)
I bow and genuflect to one of the best model manufacturers out there, Wing Nut Wings. How generous of them! You guys rock!
Now I have all kinds of ideas for a vignette, no wait, this model is way too big for a vignette, how about a diorama, a big one! I have all these extra engine parts and I'd hate to see them go to waste. I was thinking about building a war weary plane anyway, so how about one under repair? Hmmm, we'll have to look into that.
I started to mess around with the decals over the week. I must say these bad boys are HUGE!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_e0bb4964-a47d-4e93-807b-0371866f59db.jpg)
Nestled among those dinner plate sized heralds are the tiny gauges. I thought I'd try and finish up the Engineer's panel first, since it's more hidden than the Pilot's. Yeah, I have a confidence issue here. I was pleased to find that the gauge cluster was one whole decal and I didn't have to worry about placing each tiny gauge. I was also delighted to find that the decal included microscopic gauge labels. Wow!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_99a874ad-d598-4ba8-a262-d49056501124.jpg)
I've done small decals before, but I must admit this one kicked my can, hard. Placing the decal over the gauges, I couldn't get them to line up. The spacing was off just enough to cause me to mess with it way too much and too long. The Oil Gauge did not survive the onslaught of my armature decal manipulation skills.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_ce682dec-2aa5-4bfc-addf-8afb42676323_1.jpg)
Despite my frustration with my mad decal skills, wait, said that wrong... despite my frustration with my decal skills that make me mad, I like how it turned out. I was amazed that you could actually read the gauge labels! I didn't notice that until I looked at the pictures. I also noticed my parts are quite dirty and the paint is rather fouled with dust. I'm going to have to work a little cleaner.
So hopefully I'll get to finish up the bulk of the main detail painting this weekend and get another coat of protective lacquer over that, and my decal adventure, this weekend. I'm looking forward to doing some weathering, washes, and filters.
Thanks for checking in and I wish you many hours of modeling bliss for the weekend.
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Awesome IP and yes, WNW rocks in customer service! I can't think of another kit Manufacturer that makes more clear and concise gauges for their models Just another of many reasons to be impressed by WNW.
RAGIII
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Nice IP!
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Thanks RAGIII and CazzaS, I'm glad you like it. I just wish I hadn't fudged the gauge on the left.
Any suggestions on something good to use to simulate dial glass? I've seen PVA, CAA, and gloss paint, but I don't know what is the best and safest with consistent results.
Well the week seems to have sneaked up on me and kept me away from my build log. I got a little break today so I thought I'd pop in for a little update.
I spent my model time this past weekend fooling with the details. I finished up the bulk of the detail painting and decided to hit the air brush for another round of target practice with my mighty Iwata Eclipse. I love this little air brush. I swear I could push used motor oil through it and get a great finish. This time I was out to seal all this painting with some semigloss so my weathering can slide into all the nooks and crannies. I also shot at all the engine parts because I can't wait to put these little gems together.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180331_085831.jpg)
Once everything dried I went back to the instructions to see how well behaved I've been with sticking to the instruction sequence. Seems I'm not a good boy. looking at things closer, really closer I found this decal...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180422_095716.jpg)
Wait, no, that's a speck of dust. Or? Holy cow, is a speck of dust that says "Open", and there's another one that says "Closed". In the picture, That's my Exacto, #11 parts launcher pointing to it. Yeah, I nearly missed these two, and after surprisingly few cuss words I got them on. It's silly though, you'll need a telescope to see them from a few inches away.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180422_100905.jpg)
There's a nice decal for what I think may be the fuse panel for various landing lights and other undetermined gadgets that are connected to that cable bundle running along the top of the side frame. I thought about carving that off and replacing it with little strands of actual wire, but the thought of likely destroying a lot of the paintwork so far, I changed my mind. Wish I had thought about it earlier.
After some more detail painting and touch ups, I hit some of the parts with a nice brown wash...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180422_105232.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180422_105241.jpg)
The wash looks subtle in the photos, but it really brought out a lot of the detail, and besides, I have a lot more weathering I want to do.
Yeah, I'm still messing with those stubborn seams on the tanks. I'll wipe them out, even if I have to use a Howitzer to do it.
I also broke out the detail set for the weapons and added straps to the drum magazines. I really like the details, but I think I'm not liking the paint work on these. I'll have to mess with that a little more...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180422_103532.jpg)
See the two decals in the picture? They are supposed to go on the magazines, on either side of the strap. Please tell me what you think about putting those on. I really don't like them and I've never seen them on any of the pictures of these weapons on the Net.
Well that's about it for this episode of micro fun. I'm really liking how things are coming together, and dry fitting the interior together is showing me that this thing is going to look really cool.
Till next time, ya all take care.
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For instrument glass - https://www.acornmodels.co.nz/products/general-modelling-materials/microscale-products/8190/
Keep the updates coming .
Gary
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I've found repeated applications of Humbrol gloss clear to be effective for lens' , repeated to assure a level setting.
For The Gotha instruments I used .005" clear plastic sheet, and black to build up the instrument body. Made with various punch sets I've accumulated.
Fstowe is looking good.
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Great work, Very good wood work.
I prefer to use a UV-light curing glue. I place just a drop on the instrument switch on the lamp and ready it is. Flat or convex lenses are very easy.
Bye,
Manni
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Nice, nice, nice.
Seeing builds like this and presented like this makes me wonder - should I tackle this model once more? Maybe some day, but for now I will be watching this one progress.
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Another option for instrument glass is Future; several repeated applications produce a bright and clear lens. It also acts as the adhesive to hold separate instrument bezels if you are adding them.
Cheers,
Lance
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Happy lazy, lay on the couch, do nothing, watch TV, drink beer, weekend everyone.
Thank's again for all the expert tips ya all...
Gary, I've used MicroScale products a lot. I like their decal solutions, and they've been around for as long as I've been building models (= many years). I didn't know they made this stuff. I'll see if the local candy store has some.
krow113, I've used gloss clear paint in the past for representing shiny things and I did some gauges on a space robot armor thingy this way. I was using an old bottle of Testors clear coat. It looked great, but after a couple days, the paint got all weirded out, and there was this divot, bubble lookin thing on the gauge. I never went back to that method. I've heard a lot about Humbrol paints and I have an ancient pot of rust from them that I really like. I've never found a rust paint that looks and behaves like theirs. I'll look into their clear coat, especially since I'm still on the hunt for a clear coat that I really like.
Clear plastic sheet? I like you. You're just my kind of modeling masochist. Great idea, but I'll save that one for a scratch build. Besides, I have yet to add a punch set to my tool box. Yeah I know, I'm pathetic.
Manni, UV Light Curing Glue? I can't say I've ever heard of that, so I did a quick Google trip on it. Lots of choices there. Can you tell me about some of the uses for this stuff besides making gauge glass?
Thanks PrzemoL, tackle this model once more? You know what they say, if you touch it more than once, or for too long, you're playing with it. chuckles.
Lance, I've heard a lot about the uses of Future in model building. How do these people come up with this stuff? I can guess on this one..."no Wife, I"m not building models, I'm waxing the floor...really", Hey wait a minute, this stuff would make great gauge glass. I'll go raid the wife's cleaning supplies and see what we have.
Thanks again for the tips, but may I indulge in your vast knowledge one more time? This...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180428_075056.jpg)
.... is the wireless aerial reel. There isn't any more information on it in the instructions, and actually I can't even find the aerial itself. I'm thinking there's some missing detail here and I'd like to add it if I can get some information on it.
I spent some time researching WWI radios and came across some really cool stuff. I'm still thinking about opening up the waterproof wireless cabinet, the one with the green cover. I found what seems like period, British equipment...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/A19450007000cp04.jpg)
I really like the look of this stuff, but to recreate it in 1/32nd scale would be tough. Anyone know of a kit, or something that would be a good starting point, like a photo etch set or something?
Been working on erasing the lines on the fuel tanks. Think I'm getting there...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180428_075801.jpg)
Once again, many thanks for the help.
take care
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All is coming together nicely to say the least. The radio would be a great addition but looks as though it will require a lot of scratch building! Best of Luck should you choose to do the open door 8)
RAGIII
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No worries.
Here is a 120mm B 17 pilot , the goggles are at least 40 applications of the Humbrol clear , as you can see a convex profile is possible!
(https://image.ibb.co/hAqeWx/IMG_1341_2.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Your fuel tanks are looking way better.
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The radio looks cool... but making one...ugh. The rest of your interior looks great!
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Hi all,
Hey GazzaS and RAGIII, I'll take that as a challenge. I really like the radio and that blank table is crying for something. I'll mess with it a little and see what I can come up with. If it doesn't work out, it'll end up being a couple maps and a pencil.
Hey krow, 40 applications? I suppose you had to wait for each coat to dry? Are we talking a month and a half? Well, it was worth the wait, those goggles look awesome! Me? I'm not that patient.
Well my decal upholstery for the leather seats didn't turn out. These decals are a little odd in that you're supposed to paint a light color under them because the decals are see through. Since I painted a dark color, you can't see the texture of the decal and it all turned out to be one color. So I'm going to try and clean them up and just paint and weather them. Look upon my shame in pictures...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_04b136fa-4651-468f-be5b-106f16fa95dd.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_59b5297e-e204-42da-84b4-11c3c23a9021.jpg)
Did a little dry fitting. I'm worried about how all this is going to fit together, and I have an idea about how not to cover all the work I'm doing on the interior, so I wanted too check and see if it'll work. Looks like everything is going to come together well. I wanted to check this little area because of a picture in the instructions...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/Interior.jpg)
The center section strut in the picture extends through the fabric down to the spar in the interior. seeing this in the picture, I was worried that the one on the model didn't do this so I wanted to check it. I was surprised to find...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180401_151354.jpg)
...it does! Once again WNW has done an excellent job of research and recreation. This is going to help me with my plan to blow the top fabric off the fuselage and expose the interior. I'm still working out the details of just how I'm going to do this, but this is one step closer.
thanks for peeping and I hope the rest of your week is a good one.
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Happy Saturday everyone!
After moving my daughter back home from college for the summer this morning I managed to squeeze in a couple hours of model building this afternoon. woop woop!
Just for fun, here's an idea of all the paints I've been using so far on this beast. I'm sure there'll be more to come....
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_85664779-da69-46c2-927a-ca05e2b1856a.jpg)
Don't let my son's hairy legs distract you
I started by messing with the fuel, excuse me, petrol tanks a little more. I've nearly got the lines completely erased. This last coat should do it...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_ffa4f6ff-5f39-4ecd-a220-b5d6e5b53f00.jpg)
After that I decided I should start working on the inside of the hull. I wanted to continue the dark wood along the bottom. Since I plan on opening up the hull on top, I'd better get this painting done. I still can't get over how stark yellow the first layer of oil paint looks. It makes it hard to believe it'll ever look like dark wood when this layer goes down...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_74285bec-d12b-41f8-b086-54561bb3aa55.jpg)
But after the darker coat goes down, it instantly starts to look better...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_3d7d71e5-11f3-41f0-884f-df6da1a0bd3d.jpg)
I run a stiff brush over this to add the "deep" grain, and then dip a wide fan brush into the dark oil paint and do some detail grain work and general clean up...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_143e2d05-1618-4375-b61b-eedc37eff736.jpg)
Then it goes into the box to dry for a week or so. After that, I'll hit it with a protective coat of semigloss, and then comes the dark black washes to help represent the sealer they may have used in the bottom of the hull. I want to get caught up to what I've done in the bottom of the interior assembly before I continue to darken everything up further.
Next I decided to take the plunge into the waterproof wireless cabinet. It may be an omen, but while trying to pry the cabinet out, I snapped off one of the rudder pedals...curses...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_45375f29-bebc-4fad-9f5c-a71847965233.jpg)
Despite the damage, I think I'm off to a good start though. I think my scratch built cabinet turned out kinda nice...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/cid_2c2746bd-f53d-479a-9d45-3885bb3191dc.jpg)
Now filling it with some radio equipment will be a challenge, but I think I've found a cheat that'll make it easy. There's some really nice color shots of WWI radio equipment on the Net. I'll grab a few choice shots, drop them into Photo Shop, and clean them up, shrink them down and print them out. I'll take those and glue them onto some polystyrene blocks, and pop some little round bits to represent the dials and knobs. Stick a few wires in here and there, and hopefully I'll have some better than half ass representations of early radio equipment. Wish me luck.
Cheers
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Excellent work on the wood. The radio compartment is going to look awesome!
RAGIII
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Ya, gotta say that wood looks nice! Cool idea with the radios!
GAz
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Thanks Gaz and RAGIII,
I'm glad you like how my wood work is coming along. It's a bit of a shame that I'll be covering most of this with black washes to make it look like the waterproofing that's supposed to be in the bottom of the boat.
I've been toying with how I'll recreate the radios. I'm thinking the idea of printing out the faces of the various bits of equipment may just work. Here's a few pictures I grabbed from the net and straightened out in Photoshop...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/SE-143Aa.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/Independent-Wireles-Telegraph-Co.-A-1-receivera.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/Wireless-Specialty-IP-501Aa.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/IP-76-anglea.jpg)
Now if I can just get them to print out at a decent resolution, they may just be usable, but I plan to play a lot more. Maybe I can find some betterer pictures to use.
ya all be sure to enjoy the rest of your week.
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Great work! And thank you for the pictures of the instruments. They will be helpfull for me when I build mine (sometime).
Bye,
Manni
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Truly great work! Watching with great interest!
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Hello everyone on this special day. just think, if it wasn't for mama, we wouldn't all be here chatting about the stuff we love. Thanks Mom!
Well despite having to wait hand and foot on all the moms of the world, I did get some hobby time in. Today's festivities began with further work on the radio cabinet. It was back to Photo Shop to see if I can figure out how to get the pictures small enough to fit into the cabinet. After getting the size right, I put them together and started messing around with the controls to see if I can sharpen them up and make them print nicely. Weeeeelllll, the results are ok, I think. I'd like to have better sharpness, but I'm not a Photo Shop expert. So here are the pictures, three different ways...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_104722.jpg)
I'd call it legible, but I'm thinking under some of the expert photography I've seen, it won't hold up, but to the naked eye, especially my old worn out eye, it'll do. So I cut them out and stuck them in to see how they look. Think I'll go with it...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_111103.jpg)
So moving forward, it was time to start finishing the cabinet with a coat of paint. Not thinking ahead, I didn't have any place to hold it during painting so I messed up the bottom shelf. I'll repaint it when the others dry.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_121014.jpg)
Next, I thought I'd start playing with the plywood decals to see how they'd look. Honestly, I'm not too happy. My base coat is too dark. I want the plywood to retain the original color of the decals as they are on the sheet. It just didn't occur to me that the sheet's color is white, so with a tan background, most of the grain detail is rather hidden, and the whole thing looks too dark.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_134323.jpg)
Even with the dark framing over it there's little or no contrast and the panels look dull.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_134403.jpg)
I'm going to do it over with a white background for sure. Naturally I couldn't make that decision before masking the framework in the back. I'll have to rip out the tape to repaint I'll be wearing my dunce cap the rest of the day.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_142738.jpg)
To make up a little for this goof I hit the bottom of the hull with a black wash in an effort to actually move forward with the build, rather than just creating more work for myself. It's going to be a big masking job to repaint all the tan, white.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180513_145125.jpg)
So guys, let me know if you'd like a copy of the final radio picture file. I have it in JPG and PSD for you Photo Shop types. Just send me an email address and I'll pop it right over to you. You should be able to print it right out or take it over to the pros who likely have a much better printer.
Take care and don't forget to tell mama how awesome she is on her special day.
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This is coming along nicely, sadly, most if not all of your interior effort will be hidden from any view. I like your radio faces. Gives it a nice look of authenticity and great idea and I like it.
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How much work, and excellent work indeed. I like your idea for the radios.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Hello all you happy people!
Welcome to another episode of, "Lets See If This Guy Can Screw Up An Expensive Model", and I'm your host, that guy.
The boss wouldn't let me get in much model madness this weekend, probably because of my covert trip to the hobby shop during the week last week. I was on the hunt for some gloss white so I could redo the plywood. After about an hour of drooling I left the shop proud of myself for not buying another model. I promised myself not to get another one until this one is done. Yeah, we'll see how long that lasts.
I did find something interesting in a tube. Vallejo makes a new-ish tube of acrylic putty and I like it because it don't stink and you can thin it with water...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180519_104830_1.jpg)
I was thinking I could use it to finish up the fine lines left on the petrol tanks. I liked working with the stuff. I tried it right out of the tube, and I thinned it with some water, and it worked great both ways. I've used similar stuff before to make water for my little boat models.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180519_112605.jpg)
I've never tried to sand the stuff I had before, mostly because it doesn't dry very hard, but the Vallejo stuff dries rock solid. However once I started sanding the stuff, it was behaving...weird. Under the brunt of my sanding sticks, they just seemed to polish the putty and eventually start to chip off. I added some to the horizontal tank to see how it worked with the lines since you can't see them on the finished model. For some reason the putty popped out of the cracks but wouldn't come off of the flat parts. I'm beginning to think I didn't let it dry enough, but it had been drying for a few hours.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180519_153211_1.jpg)
I also got another little bottle of newness, some of the Microscale Krystal Klear for the gauges. I was surprised to find a bottle of thick, gooey, stringy, gluey, stuff that's a lot like Elmers glue. There's no way to glop this stuff onto the tiny gauges, so I thinned it with a little water...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180519_114449.jpg)
I think it turned out ok. Maybe a second coat is in order. They are really hard to see in this picture, but they aren't dry anyway.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180519_114425.jpg)
So after playing with some new model chemistry it was time to get to work on the less hobby side of my weekend. But before I go I just had to mess with the engines a little. Jeez I love these engines!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180519_162502.jpg)
Thanks for tuning in and I hope you all have a fabulous week.
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Terrific update! The details are coming out nicely Looking forward to more!
RAGIII
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Hello Everyone,
No, I was not abducted by aliens, but I was abducted by one of our clients at work and dragged overseas for a while. Now that's done I can get back to the important stuff.
Being far away from all my toys, I haven't gotten much done. I finished laying decals for the plywood on the interior. I had repainted everything from tan to white so these see through decals would look better...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180602_071700.jpg)
I think it's looking much better with a white base. Now when I went to seal the decals with some varnish I used Vallejo satin varnish straight from the bottle. I like this stuff ok, but it doesn't go on very smooth, it's expensive for such a small bottle, and I think I need to keep looking for better stuff because when I went to mask over it, this happened...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180610_153635.jpg)
The tape lifted the varnish so easily that a slight bump of the tape made it come right off. It's likely due to the decals not holding on to the varnish, but this could cause serious issues on other projects. Most of all, I am now without a way to seal large decals and it worries me about how to seal the outside of the plane when I do those decals. Anyone have any advice here? What types of varnish have you used to cover your wood decals?
After a few colorful words I moved on with the interior. I decided to finally glue the interior to one half of the fuselage and continue with interior details. I also put down a filter over the plywood to give it a little age and wear.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180630_121431.jpg)
I'm finally happy with the petrol tanks and added the decals and started with the plumbing after gluing them in. I finally received the rivet decals in the mail from HWG. I really like the products from these guys. They are cheaper than Uschi, and the quality is really close, if not the same, or even a little better. The only problem is it takes over a month to get an order from them. The rivets are so tiny it's doubtful they will be seen, but I wanted to give them a try and see how they work.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180610_085548.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180610_093201.jpg)
The carrier film is rather difficult to get off, it's still on in the picture, but once it's off and the rivets are sealed, they look great.
As a last bit of work for this session, it's more detail painting on the engines. These little gems are going to be quite colorful. There's so many different colors on the pictures of the originals, and I may be getting away from how they are supposed to look on the version of the plane I'm doing, but I'm a rebel who likes to do what looks best as opposed to what it's supposed to be in reality. I'm toying with the idea of a diorama where the plane was battle damaged and one of the engines is being replaced. Since Wing Nut was so kind to send me an entire engine for one broken part, I'll likely do one as it's supposed to look, and another that is more factory fresh that wasn't painted with the Battleship Gray when the plane was first built.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180610_153113.jpg)
So I'm glad to be back home and working on my project. I hope you like the progress, but honestly I'm running into so many problems with the interior, I'm beginning to have second thoughts about opening up the framework on the top to let viewers see the inside better. We'll see how things continue. Maybe I will, maybe I won't.
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Big project so hang in there!! I'm not sure if you solved the varnish situation but applying more on the effected patches might feather it in. I order a lot of stuff from Jadar in Poland, including HGW, and it usually gets here (Canada) in about three weeks. I'm not sure where you are but I'm sure it would get to European countries quicker.
Steve
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In my opinion your Felix is looking great! As for that tear I would probably try touching up with some raw sienna oils blended in, but that is me ;D
Good to see you back at this one!
RAGIII
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Looking good!
Good to see you back on it.
I sealed The Gotha's wood decals with 50/50 IPA and Future.
Spray it hard and fast , light coats.
You guys may wanna know , a 'hot mix' , that is more thinner than paint , will result in a hard and very well ingrained coating. Try it with laq's and primer for thin coats that provide full tooth for the coming paint.
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Try these guys for rovets - http://www.archertransfers.com
Used rhem a lot on armour builds and don't take a month tk arrive!
Gary
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Love the extra details for the interior. Much braver than me in that area.
Gaz
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Good morning fellow Sprue Masters,
Thank you much for the advice on clear coats pepperman and RAGIII. I actually ended up hiding the tear with some oils, thinking it won't be seen clearly that far back in the plane. I'm just a little too lazy to make a full repair. Finding a clear coat that'll spray well, stick hard, and hold up under the onslaught of my sometimes overzealous weathering torture, would end a long search.
krow113, IPA and Future? I'm sure there's an Indian Pale Ale in my Future, never thought of putting it in my airbrush. Seems like alcohol abuse. (sorry, bad joke). I'll assume your talking about isopropyl alcohol and floor wax. I've heard good things about using Future as an armor coat for base colors and protection from weathering, as well as a great undercoat for decals. Honestly, I'm terrified it'll gum up my airbrush and turn into concrete, never to be removed. Is IPA the best thinner and cleaner for Future? Maybe it's time to throw caution to the wind and see what everyone is talking about.
Thanks for the link GB. I'll price shop them and see if price verses patience will balance with them. I'll wait to get something dirt cheap, but I'll likely complain about how long it's taking anyway.
I'm glad you like the detail so far GazzaS. I'll be messing with it for some time yet to come. Depending on how battle weary this plane gets as I move along, I'll be adding stuff to try and express its number of missions by adding spent bullet casings, empty magazines, a little trash left over from mission critical snacks, as well as other odds and ends. I just have to keep in mind that the guys took really good care of their machines and not over do it.
So, still continuing on with the interior, I started plumbing out the petrol tanks. Not a lot of parts here but I must say it was a bit of a struggle getting the little red pipe marking stripe decals on. Getting them to wrap tightly and stay flat was a time consuming struggle. It seemed that the MicroScale micro sol took a long time to soften up the decals.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180701_113027.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180701_113019_1.jpg)
Then it was on to the cockpit. I'm loving the seat belts from HGW. They are fairly easy to assemble and the detail is spot on.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180701_145403.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180701_145410.jpg)
The rest of the cockpit details are looking fine, but the steering wheel cables are a little small I'm thinking. When it comes to rigging out the rest of the flight controls, I think I'll go with some thicker stock.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180701_173510.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e188/ScottyPos/20180701_173405.jpg)
That's all folks. I hope to get a little more time in this weekend, but my to do list is ever-present.
Take care
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Some fine work!
Gaz
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Really a nice progress!
Andreas
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Your interior is moving along nicely. All is looking terrific!
RAGIII
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Great looking, really like what you have done. Looking forward to your progress.
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Great work! Looking for the next update.
Bye,
Manni
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Hello everyone,
Well that was an adventure. I got snapped up for a big task at work and just couldn't seem to get back to the personal business. But, all done now and it's time for some model building. I wish I could say I got a lot done, but the main control panel was a bit of a challenge. It starts out as a bunch of tiny decals...
(https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/e188/ScottyPos/s0/55890ca4-2c57-4d42-b1cb-1390f15880f0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I kind of like these better than the single sheet of dials like the ones for the engineer's panel in back. However manipulating these little suckers was tough, especially when trying not to damage the paint. The altimeter? decal got roached, the long one on the left side. I had to touch it up with a little paint to make it look decent. After that it was a little dial glass. It's always a heart attack moment putting on the Micro Gloss stuff, turning everything white and covering up the fine decals...
(https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/e188/ScottyPos/s0/01fa3f12-b473-41ce-90f7-e795260f0b0c-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
But in the end things turn out ok. Just need a little weathering and a pin wash...
(https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/e188/ScottyPos/s0/82ad28b7-bd70-4999-96a3-55351eaeffa5-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
Then it's all nestled in its cockpit...
(https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/e188/ScottyPos/s0/f4133b27-018f-477c-bc3d-bbaee7727477-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
Before it was time to end this little episode of playing with plastic, I finished up the fuel lines for the petrol tanks...
(https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/e188/ScottyPos/s0/f0f315ea-b2d0-4e18-b0ae-2c6a1cfab828-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel for the interior. I'm still messing with the radio cabinet. I just ordered some resin radios online and I"m going to try and modify them a little. They are American WWII radios that I'll try and backdate them a little to make them look convincing. I've abandoned the idea of the printed paper radios. I started gluing little bits to them to make them look better, but I hated it and tossed them into the junk pile in the basement.
The guy who sold me the kit included a spool of rigging line. I've been messing around with it and I put some of it on the steering wheels, but I don't like it. I'm thinking the line is too small. Any suggestions on some good stuff? I'm supposed to be using .15 mm stuff according to the instructions.
Thanks for watching and have yourselves a fine weekend.
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Looking good.
Good to see you back on it.
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I'm catching up on your posts on the Felixstowe and your work is truly noteworthy. The petrol tanks look the business with those rivets on them. Reminds me of my Gramma's old Water heater, just a large tube with a riveted jacket. Modelkasten makes a nice stretch line that I use I think it's .06 something like that, the only thing it's scarce to find. I think either Uschi or HGW makes a nice stretch line similar to the Modelkasten line, Works great.
The "Color Commentary" adds to viewing your work as well. keep it up. Looking forward to the next update and interesting to see what you do with the fuselage, shame to cover all that effort.
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https://www.bnamodelworld.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=Modelkasten&subkeyword=Rigging&x=25&y=14
Gary