forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on February 07, 2018, 07:42:30 AM
-
Hi all,
I thought you might be interested in my latest model, the Wingnut Wings Sopwith Pup.
I'm currently at the rigging stage, having done the tail and undercarriage rigging. Just that with the upper wing and propeller to fit.
Then it's the figure and base to do and that'll be number 13 done.
BUILD COMPLETED - see 'COMPLETED' THREAD
-
Awesome work! I love the weathering!!
RAGIII
-
Very nice!
Steve
-
Turning out quite nicely, especially the weathering. Looking forward to your progress
-
Very nice. I love the shot of the underside of the tail, with all the wires back there. Looks extremely complex.
Were the seats on the pup really mounted so low?
-
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
I followed the kit instructions and it does seem the pilot's seat was pretty low in the cockpit.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1540530-another-sopwith-pup/page10
Mike
-
Mike, I love the Pup and its veeery beautiful, how you treated her! Especially your intense but equally subtle weathering! I‘d love to learn more about how you did that! Looking forward to seeing more of your Pup,
Richard
-
Great work. The weathering is outstanding. Did you use Aviattics' decals? And which one?
Bye,
Manni
-
Nice, nice work! It's a beautiful kit and you are doing a museum class finish on this one.
Impressive!
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
-
Manni - Yes I used the 'Aviattic' PC10 Light (ATT32089) for the upper surfaces and the the CDL (ATT32094) for the undersides. As you probably know, the Aviattic decals are totally different in both the method of application and the way they are made. These decals are not cookie cut and therefore need to be cut from the sheet. I created paper templates from the model parts first, then used them to trace and cut the decals. The important thing to remember is that the model surface needs to be gloss finished and totally free from any surface particles or imperfections, otherwise these will show through the decal and possibly cause 'silvering'. I have to admit the linen effect on these decals makes a big difference to the look of the model.
Rob - The weathering is a combination of fine clay washes from 'Flory Models', Tamiya Master Weathering sets and AK Interactive washes. The Flory clay washes are water based and basically you seal the painted or decal surfaces with either a matte, semi-matte or gloss sealing coat (dependent on how much wash you want retained on the surface), then let it dry. Once dry you can use a brush, cotton bud or tissue, slightly dampened, and remove the clay wash as required until you achieve the desired effect. The great thing about the washes is you can control exactly how much weathering you want and if you remove too much, just put more back on and repeat. Once done I seal the surfaces with a mix of matte and semi-matte lacquer (Alclad).
-
Thank You! I use the naval hex decals right now on my W29. They seem to be like a kind of plastic wrap.
Bye,
Manni
-
looks great, I really like the way you used the Aviattic decals! Keep up the good work and show us more pictures!
-
Manni - You're right as the decals seem to have a stretch to them that standard decals don't have. Also they are remarkably robust and can be removed and replaced or moved around with damaging them. The only thing I've found is that they don't seem to allow settings solutions, such as MicroSol, to penetrate through, as I don't see the normal effect of 'wrinkling' during the MicroSol reaction. I could be wrong here, but they don't seem to be affected. However, if the surface has been prepared correctly, I don't think you need setting solutions as the decals hug the model surface pretty well anyway.
Ssasho0 - I tend not to keep posting pictures at each stage of the build, but instead I created a full build log, in PDF format, as I build. Once I'm done I post a link to that build log so that anyone interested can either view it online or download it for their own reference. The logs contain full details of the build, in both text and photographs.
Here's a link to those I've already done:
http://www.thatoneplease.co/logs.html (http://www.thatoneplease.co/logs.html)
-
Very nice. I haven't used the Aviattic decals yet put have nust ordered a few sheets and plan to use rhem on my Felixstowe wbdn I build it.
Gary
-
Hi Gary,
Yes 'Aviattic' decals are the way to go.
They come as either 'clear' (transparent) or 'white' (solid backing). The clear decals require a base colour applied first, whereas the white decals don't.
For those decal sheets that are not cookie cut, you'll need to cut templates out first, using the model parts as the base. The cookie cut decals are obviously already shaped and are applied in the normal way on the model parts.
Cutting templates first sounds tricky to do but is easy enough using thin paper or similar. Also the decals are robust and do have an element of stretch in them, so minor errors transferred from the cut templates can usually be sorted out during application. Although thin, any overlap on decals of the 'clear' type will show as 'double' colour, so try to avoid that.
The thing to remember is that the surface you apply the decals to must be gloss and shouldn't have any imperfections, such as dust or heavy marks, as these will show through the decals. If any particles are under the decal there's a chance that air will be trapped there causing the dreaded 'silvering, which will show through even these decals. You can either paint the base coat colour then seal it with a clear coat (I use Alclad gloss lacquer) or paint the base colour then polish it (I use 'Flory Models' polishing sticks for this)
If you apply 'clear' decals, the base coat needs to be a gloss and light colour. White is the preferred colour but you can always experiment on a piece of plastic card first to get the desired effect. Also this would allow you to try the pre-shading colour and intensity, if you want to pre-shade. It's what I do as post shading would cover the linen effect of the decal and contrast with the rest.
Once the decals have been applied and set fully, I apply a gloss coat over the areas that will have further decals applied, such as those from the kit itself.
When all decals have been applied I airbrush a sealing coat of 50-50 Alclad II Semi-Matte and Flat, which not only seal in the decals but also gives what I think is the correct amount of surface sheen.
Remember that the decals will cover any holes or location points on the model , but you can pick them out through the decal and carefully break through the dried decals, using a pin etc, to re-open them. Be careful not to pull at the decal as that can sometimes cause it to lift slightly. If that happens just apply more decal setting solution to set the decal back down, pricking through the decal first if necessary.
When that's all done you can apply your weathering techniques as desired.
-
Just so I have it straight - You used the clear decal sheet PC10 over a linen coloured base paint pre-shaded on top and clear decal sheet linen over linen coloured base paint pre-shaded undersides? TIA
Steve
-
Beautiful work, as always, Mike! So glad to see the Aviattic linen decals used to such great effect. Your instructions on how to use them will be quite useful for anyone wishing to try them out for the first time. Very thorough. I've used them on quite a few of my models and love how they perform. Just one tip I would like to add, if you don't mind. Rather than trying to trim any excess around the edges, which is difficult to do due to their elasticity, simply dissolve the excess with Tamiya thin cement. Works like charm and helps secure the edges to the plastic.
Thanks for posting.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Hi Steve,
Yes more or less.
PC 10 (clear backed) was applied over a white gloss base coat, which I pre-shaded with a thinned mix of Tamiya Olive Drab (XF62) and NATO Black (XF69).
The undersides was CDL (clear backed) over a white gloss base coat, which pre-shaded with a mix of Tamiya Deck Tan (XF78) and NATO Brown (XF68).
You can experiment with different colours for the pre-shading with a spare piece of plastic card and decal off cuts first, before you finally decide.
-
Hi Bud,
Thanks for that tip - I'll remember that in the future ;)
-
Thanks for the clarification. Great stuff!!
Steve
-
Beautiful work, as always, Mike! So glad to see the Aviattic linen decals used to such great effect. Your instructions on how to use them will be quite useful for anyone wishing to try them out for the first time. Very thorough. I've used them on quite a few of my models and love how they perform. Just one tip I would like to add, if you don't mind. Rather than trying to trim any excess around the edges, which is difficult to do due to their elasticity, simply dissolve the excess with Tamiya thin cement. Works like charm and helps secure the edges to the plastic.
Thanks for posting.
Cheers,
Bud
Bud,
Since I find the trimming of excess from the edges by far the most difficult step of the process can you provide a detailed description of how you do this? Do you remove the trimmings or blend them to the surface for example?
Mike,
That's looking really great, your decal work on the tail components looks perfect to me! I used this finish on my DH.2 and the joins of the PC.10 to the CDL undersurfaces were a bit of a challenge.
Cheers,
Lance