forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: gedmundson on October 16, 2016, 07:51:40 AM
-
Hi folks, I started the WnW 1.32 DFW C.V a while ago and finally have some photos to post of my progress.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5398_zpszg6gwqgq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5398_zpszg6gwqgq.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5383_zpsgr8klieh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5383_zpsgr8klieh.jpg.html)
The instrument panel had some nice detail engineered in the kit like the syncronizing line for the MG.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5386_zpsnksmyegr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5386_zpsnksmyegr.jpg.html)
Wires were added to the radio for the antenna and power supply
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5387_zpspluktjbf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5387_zpspluktjbf.jpg.html)
Cabling for the controls was added before the cockpit area got too crowded.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5393_zpsqdmly2e6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5393_zpsqdmly2e6.jpg.html)
Ignition wires and pushrods were added to the kit's engine
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5397_zps58ueuvtx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5397_zps58ueuvtx.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5396_zpsqmrlt1fc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5396_zpsqmrlt1fc.jpg.html)
Here it sits ready to pop in the engine and it'll be on to the next phase.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Outstanding work and a wonderful start. Looking forward to you progress.
-
Very fine realistic interior. Great, great...
-
Spectacular cockpit and engine, Gary!
Cheers,
Bud
-
Spectacular start Gary, as we've seen so many times from your efforts before! Am I correct in surmising that you've used the Kit's PE Seat Belts? Great work on those, I can never get decent results with them and now just automatically order the HGW A/M sets. The Instrument panel is spectacular, looks like another "barn burner" in the making!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks to all for the kind words - glad you like it!
Lance, I just modified the PE seatbelts with a bit of copper wire to make the springs a bit more lifelike. I typically like to re-do the PE seat belts with a thicker lead sheet, but the clasp detail on these ones is hard to redo. So I took the lazy route :-[
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5369_zpswyfohnm4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5369_zpswyfohnm4.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
How cool to see this one built, there cannot be enough DFW's!!
Great start with the interior, I especially like your engine and the way you improoved the springs on the seat belts. That's a technique I'll copy when it comes to seat belts for me again.
Best regards
Borsos
-
Superb work all round Gary - I look forward to your further progress.
All you guys building are making me very envious - I simply can't get a space to settle down to one at this point - I'm afflicted by the dreaded 'domestic duties' call :(
Keep on with that great work - Tug
-
Spectacular result with the interior Gary, the colours are excellent and look very realistic. The engine turned out extremely well and the springs on the seat belts is a technique I will be following on my next build.
Des.
-
+1 on the springs for your seatbelts, looks much better than the original flat surface.
-
A truly outstanding beginning! Everything looks fantastic from the wood to the belts! Awesome work on the instruments and dontrol wires!
RAGIII
-
Excellent interior, Gary.
Eye Candy and no mistake ;)
vB
-
I could spend quite a bit of time going over every little detail so far. Beautiful!
Steve
-
Superb interior - that wood work is so realistic - how do you chaps do it? As for the lazy route with the seat belts - they look excellent to me especially the springs.
Stephen.
-
Progress has been slow on this one - but here is a small update on the fuselage work. Trying for a really tired, weathered look to the model.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5431_zpsgukwtktc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5431_zpsgukwtktc.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5443_zpswac0y9hx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5443_zpswac0y9hx.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
You have certainly achieved a well worn look! I Like it!!
RAGIII
-
Agree with RAGIII, well worn look to that beauty.
-
Rick & Juan, thanks for the comments! The good thing about "work in progress" is that the scruffy effect will be toned down as needed as the project nears completion.
Cheers,
Gary
-
She looks like a very tired and worn out old girl, but the effect you have achieved is excellent, very well done Gary.
Des.
-
Wow, Gary. I missed this build up to now. I love this plane and especially the scheme you have chosen. The interieur looks terrific and made my eyes wander around every detail. The fuselage now stands for its own. It looks so good all these scratches and worn off paint. Perfect.
Chapeau!
Manni
-
This is wonderful finishing.
Regards
Russell
-
That's really an outstanding finish, very well done!
Borsos
-
Gary,
Great looking Build, that's my kind of finish and you've done a marvelous job on it! The detail looks well up to your high standards as well, the engine and a bit of the interior in the second photo are most impressive. I keep looking at this one in my stash and thinking what a "plain Jane" project it would be............not so much anymore after seeing your work here! I'll stay tuned.......
Cheers,
Lance
-
I really like the weathered look. Did you do it with steel wool, Gary?
-
That looks suitably knackered. Great result. It's a lot more difficult to make something look weathered than a show room finish so I know how much work you've put into this to achieve this effect. Well done.
-
Toby has made a very good point. Getting a finish like that takes patience and skill - overdone it looks horrible. You have achieved the effect without going past that difficult line. Congratulations.
Stephen.
-
Thanks gentlemen for your kind comments! As I'd mentioned - this weathered look is still a work in progress and will probably look a bit more toned down when the model is finished.
To answer "Umlaufmotor" about what I used to create the effect so far, is a base "wood" coat of acrylic, then glosscoat, then a light coat of hairspray, then a mottled, patchy coat of the XF-71 dark green. I scrubbed off some of the paint with a damp brush, since the hairspray dissolves and the XF-71 looses it's grip. It was an armour modelling technique I wanted to try on a WWI aircraft, and since this one had such a monotone colour for the fuselage I really needed to make it interesting. The trick will be to make sure all components have the same look of wear and discolouration when it's all assembled.
This same technique (using a base of Alclad II aluminum) was used to do the cowlings - here's a pic of one without the scrubbed-off paint and one after treatment...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5416_zpsyo5a3hiy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5416_zpsyo5a3hiy.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Looks great!! Glad to hear about the process. Some companies like Ammo by Mig Jimenez & AK Interactive even sell "chipping fluids" which work on the same principle as the tried & true hairspray method.
Steve
-
Looking good, and thanks for the explanation about the chip/scratch effect! I've seen some pictures of one of our Dutch interned DFW's after a few years of use, and it looked almost just like this, scratched and scruffy.
Look forward to the rest! :)
Jeroen
-
Looks great!! Glad to hear about the process. Some companies like Ammo by Mig Jimenez & AK Interactive even sell "chipping fluids" which work on the same principle as the tried & true hairspray method.
Steve
the nice thing about the AK / Ammo stuff is that you can spray it with an airbrush, so it's a little more controllable than a can of Clairol... of course you could decant the latter I s'pose...
-
I buy the "travel size" manual pump hairspray for about $2 per bottle, apply it with a brush and it works just great.
Cheers,
Lance
-
Forgot to mention - I always decant any rattle can into a jar and use an airbrush. This hairspray thing needs a fair bit of control. Same with Tamiya primer etc.
-
More progress on the wings - a very streaky pattern to these. Tons of masking top and bottom to get the effect of the structure inside the canvas.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5429a_zpsytbtxna1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5429a_zpsytbtxna1.jpg.html)
The metal parts received the same weathering as the engine cowling, and the etched metal turnbuckles have been attached to copper loops in preparation for the rigging. After viewing the pics, I think the compass needs a bit of Tamiya Smoke to cut down the brightness.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5446_zpsblvondmf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5446_zpsblvondmf.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Amazing work Gary, simply amazing. :)
-
Beautiful paint and weathering.
-
Nice!
-
Fantastic work, Gary, the degree of realism you've created here is incredible.
What "etched metal turnbuckles" are you using?
Cheers,
Lance
-
Beautiful painting! The weathered look is awesome to say the least!
RAGIII
-
Beautiful painting! The weathered look is awesome to say the least!
RAGIII
Again, I agree with my Amigo, Gary! Masterful paint work.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Very well done Gary.
Des.
-
Thanks again, gentlemen! Glad you like it.
Lance - the etched metal turnbuckles I use are the ones from RB Productions in Ireland. For seven Euro you get 80 of them, and since this model uses about 40 or so, it can be done a lot cheaper than using the Gaspatch ones (which are nice!). When the RB Production ones are painted up they look good enough to me.
Cheers,
Gary
-
That is a first class piece of painting. How you artists achieve the streaking effect is beyond me. The rest of the model is equally outstanding.
Stephen.
-
Gary,
would you be so kind and share your version of the hairspray technique with us? I tried it more then once (using AK chipping fluid) and I never achieved such subtle and fine effects as you did on the fuselage and wings. I switched to the sponge technique now, as I always got just some few but realy big aeras, where the paint chipped off.
As all the others have said, congrats to this wonderful progress!
Borsos
-
Gary,
would you be so kind and share your version of the hairspray technique with us? I tried it more then once (using AK chipping fluid) and I never achieved such subtle and fine effects as you did on the fuselage and wings. I switched to the sponge technique now, as I always got just some few but realy big aeras, where the paint chipped off.
As all the others have said, congrats to this wonderful progress!
Borsos
Hi Borsos, glad to help with an explanation of the technique.
The base colour is airbrushed on, and in this case it was Tamiya's Buff for the fuselage, and Alclad II Duraluminum for the cowling and other metal parts. Over this I spray a protective coat of Future gloss.
I decanted a small amount of Textureline "texturesprayfirm" hair spray into a jar, and airbrush a thin coat onto the areas that will need the weathering technique. After the hairspray is nice and dry, I'll airbrush on the finish coat using the appropriate Tamiya acrylic. In this case it was the XF61 dark green. Using Tamiya acrylics, I know this technique will work - I've never tried enamels or Vallejo paints.
The thing to remember - the paint will lift from the surface that is dampened, dissolving the hair spray, so care is needed to only dampen it a slight amount. I take a wide, stiff paint brush and dip it in water, then wipe most of the water off on a cloth. I then lightly scrub the surface until I see the paint JUST start to lift. It is easy to do it too much - then you have big chunks coming off. It is not easy, and takes a fair bit of patience. I possibly took too much off the panels on the lower wing, but a wash of oil paint helped it look better :-) I try to protect the finished surface when I'm happy with the result with another thin coat of Future gloss.
If too much paint comes off, it can also be helped by re-spraying the area (which could resemble a repair on a real aircraft).
Hope this helps!
Gary
-
Gary, Thank you for sharing. Will have to try this in the future.
-
Thanks a lot Gary, yes it helps. I think I moistured the aeras too much.
Best wishes
Borsos
-
Gary,
How long do you let your Tamiya dry before you use the damp brush chipping method on it, I find if it`s completely dry (like overnight) I have to scratch it to break the surface to get the technique to work but I don`t use the future over the base coat as you do. Your lower wing metal panels look absolutely great to me BTW.
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks for explaining your method Gary! I hope to try this and Buds Shaving Cream method someday!
RAGIII
-
My pleasure - always interested to share ideas.
Lance - you ask a very good question, and it's hard to answer! There are so many variables using this method. I can never remember if I go at it very soon after the painting of the colour layer after the hairspray, or is it a few days later??? I typically would attempt to create the effect within a day of spraying the colour coat. And it's a fairly thin one. And I use Tamiya brand thinner with my colour coat- is that a consideration, who knows!?
It's best to experiment on an older model first. I used an old Italeri Horch 1/35 staff car originally painted dark grey, and did a winter white wash on it. Used varying amounts of hairspray, overcoat, then decided how much water to put on the brush. The longer the water has a chance to soak the surface, the more paint will lift off. I have to say that too much of a wet scrubbing brush will peel off too much paint, so you have to be gentle, careful, and patient. In the end I still experiment with this - and ended up stumbling my way through this one too, to be honest ;)
Cheers,
Gary
-
I always do the chipping step as soon as the color coat has flash dried. Then I mist the surface with water and drag very gently over the surface with the point or points of very sharp tweezers. Using tweezers vs. a knife allows more variation in the kinds of marks. Where you drag is by and large where the chips will occur. Finally I go over the surface with a moistened, stiff bristle brush, which is when the chips actually happen...
-
Bo, the method you describe is much the same as mine. The chipping is caused by the water dissolving the hairspray and allowing the top coat to "chip" away. I use both a metal scraper, be it a knife or something duller like a small screwdriver or just a very stiff bristled brush to break the top coat surface, apply water and "work" the area carefully to get the desired wear/chipping. As both of you mention, it can get away on you real fast if you over do the water or the brush! The only failures I've had were the results of applying the final or top coat over the hairspray too soon, that gets really ugly and costs a few days of refinishing.
Thanks for sharing your methods and thoughts on this; there's more then one way to skin the proverbial cat as the saying goes.
Cheers,
Lance
-
Detail and weathering, beautifull..!!
-
Usually I am not a fan of weathering on WWI aircraft (due to their rather short lifetime), but in case of your builds, I have to say it really looks the thing. Great job!
Cheers
Ondra
-
I was all ready to start putting the wing rigging onto my model today, making a good start with my first two EZ Line wires.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5453_zpslcfpdr1v.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5453_zpslcfpdr1v.jpg.html)
But studying the reference photos, there appears two mis-placed tie-points on each of the lower wings of the model. The base of the outer struts has an outside point moulded into the wing, to which I faithfully added a loop and turnbuckle. This tie point didn't exist on the aircraft, and the points that make the lower part of the outer strut "X" bracing have to be re-situated. I also have to add the lower ties for all of the "X" bracing between the rest of the struts. Not too easy, since the top wing is now firmly glued in place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5454_zps9hi0gtsw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5454_zps9hi0gtsw.jpg.html)
Prsemyslaw Litewka (PrzemoL) made this correction on his Polish version of the aircraft - but I've only just discovered this :-( So it's back to some minor surgery to correct my project for now.
Cheers,
Gary
-
A few details are being completed as this one is getting closer. The silver appearance of the back of the Parabellum is just the light glinting. Had to dig out the pastel chalks for the exhaust stack and wheels.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5456_zpsdoaxcytj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5456_zpsdoaxcytj.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Excellent update, Gary! Love those wheels.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Beautiful!
-
Terrific details! Beautiful build, Gary.
Bye,
Manni
-
Really nice detail parts that show your great weathering skills!
Borsos
-
As stated by others really great looking detail parts. Love what you have done thus far.
-
Outstanding update! The wheels look terrific.
RAGIII
-
Never mind the rigging points - I am sure that when you habve finished you will be the only person to know. The other parts are really great - such wonderful finishing.
Stephen.
-
Coming along beautifully Gary, your propeller looks excellent.
Des.
-
Big ditto to all the above comments !!!
Ed
-
Those parts in the last post look outstanding!
Steve
-
Thanks again gentlemen for the encouraging comments!
This aircraft had a slightly different mount for the anemometer as seen (barely) in the photo of it in the WnW instruction booklet. I searched for a detailed picture of what it might have looked like, and found a good reference in the period photos that populate the WnW online guide to the early version of the DFW C.V
Made from stretched sprue and adhesive lead tape, I made a mount and modified the kit's anemometer to fit, shown unpainted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5466_zpsbgpsqpqd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5466_zpsbgpsqpqd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5465_zpsysds7icl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5465_zpsysds7icl.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Nicely done! yes, huge amount of variation in ww1 on things like this -- really seemed to vary almost for every individual aircraft. Ideas of standardization that we take for granted really don't apply. Much of this kind of equipment was fitted in the field to crew's specification...
-
Nice work! Did the anemometer come with the "guards" or did you make those yourself? (and, curious of course, how?)
-
Nice work! Did the anemometer come with the "guards" or did you make those yourself? (and, curious of course, how?)
Thanks to Bo, RB and Jeroen for your comments!
Jeroen - the guard for the top of the anemometer was made by wrapping thin copper wire around two spaced drill-bit stubs (placed into a thick sheet of styrene). This formed the proper shape of a few loop segments of wire, which I removed a small piece near the bottom. I then just glued two of the segments crossed over the rotating cups.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5379_zps66fuyjm4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5379_zps66fuyjm4.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5375_zpsadadfsc0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5375_zpsadadfsc0.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Hi Gary, thank you for showing how you made the anemometer guard. Very elegant enhancement. Will try in the future thanks to you.
-
Thanks for the explanation! Will have to try that as well :)
-
Fantastic attention to detail I really like what you are doing with this build!
RAGIII
-
Fantastic attention to detail I really like what you are doing with this build!
RAGIII
....... and +1 from here Gary, great work on the anemometer and the mount. I also like the rigging, this is a real winner you have here!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks guys! Appreciated the feedback 8)
Cheers,
Gary
-
Great, Gary! It looks better and better, each time I look at it. Beautiful Anemometer
Manni
-
Lovely work on the anemometer, Gary! Well done, Marc.
-
Sorry for dropping in so occassionally, Gary. You are building an incredible model. Paint finish, modifications, overall impression - all looks so great. Spectacular!
-
Manni, Monty and PrzemoL - thanks for your kind support. It's the encouragement like yours that makes a person want to keep adding the updates and strive for a better model each time :-)
-
Manni, Monty and PrzemoL - thanks for your kind support. It's the encouragement like yours that makes a person want to keep adding the updates and strive for a better model each time :-)
Same to all of you. Thanks for the examples and encouragement.
-
Lovely Gary,
Cracking job on the anemometer! (and everything else :D )
Guy
-
Gentlemen, thanks for all of the support throughout this build, and after completing the rigging shown below, I've now finished the model and hope to post some pics soon in the "Completed" forum.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v682/gedmundson1/DSC_5470_zpsj6jauook.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/gedmundson1/media/DSC_5470_zpsj6jauook.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Gary
-
She's truly stunning, Gary! You've done a masterful job on what is arguably one of the most challenging DFW schemes.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Now I'm really looking forward on seeing the final pic's , she is simply wonderful ! :)
Terri
-
I greatly enjoyed following your build! I agree wholeheartedly with Bud and Terri!
RAGIII
-
Wonderful build log - just waiting for the completed pictures.
Stephen.
-
Outstanding Gary, thoroughly enjoyed your log and looking forward to the end product photos. :D