forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: BigBlue on April 01, 2016, 11:46:44 AM
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It has been quite some time since I posted any work here; time to get back on the horse. This build has been underway since early March.... 2015.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_4757_zpsznmsh4v9.jpg)
I am guessing most of you know the kit, if not personally, then at least through a number of terrific build logs that can be found here in these forums. I plan on finishing the aircraft's under-wing surfaces using Aviattic's beautiful RFC CDL decals. Additional aftermarket items include Lewis MkII machine guns from Gaspatch (as well as their turnbuckles), the wicker pilot seat from Barracuda, and seatbelts from HGW. This is my first 2-seater, and I have enjoyed it so far. There is a lot to sink my teeth into on this build, and I expect it will test my abilities.
I am still undecided about the scheme I will represent (hey, it's only been 12 months). I am thinking about making an attempt at A7182, the aircraft that Lt. Keith Park was flying for 6 of his 20 credited victories (including 4 on Aug 17, 1915), and have a nice profile in the "Bristol F 2 Fighter Aces of World War 1" book shown above. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any images of the aircraft, and so am uncertain about some of the details (single or double Lewis guns? Cooper rack? 2-blade prop as shown in the profile?). I realize that some would take this as an opportunity to express artistic license, but I want to make sure I've exhausted all research options. Any suggestions or information would be appreciated.
I know that there is a photo of Park posing in front of one of the aircraft whose markings are included in the kit's options (option D: "12", C814), but if he flew it, it didn't figure in any of his recorded victories. If I do go this route, it will be the third build in a row where I have selected the box-art scheme for reasons having nothing to do with the box art.
Anyway, enough rambling. Progress shots to follow.
Chris
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Ok, here's what I've done so far:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2304_zpsc3cwddgd.jpg) (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2302_zpsceeihwzb.jpg) (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2305_zps7pncitwc.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2306_zpsitf3uck3.jpg) (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2309_zpsdd3vahqo.jpg)
Nothing groundbreaking here.
The wood work is dragged oils (the year of downtime on my modeling desk ensured they are quite dry). It isn't particularly visible in the photos (and certainly won't be in the finished aircraft), but after the oils dried I hit the floor with some matte coat followed by a layer of hairspray prior to the clear orange topcoat. Once dry, I tried to show wear and tear by rubbing off the "varnish" in certain areas with a wet cotton bud. A bit of muddy pigment completed the look. You can kind of see it in the first picture.
The pilot's seat is the low-backed Barracuda resin, and I fashioned the cushion out of plastic as Bertl so masterfully demonstrated in the expert building tips section. Seat belts are from HGW. This is my first experience with this product, and they are certainly easier to work with than trying to manipulate the photo etch.
I snipped of the ring style head on the control stick and replaced it with a knob made from a piece of Evergreen rod to match wartime cockpit photos (I based this on a series of photos in Issue 114 of WW1 Aero Magazine). The trigger lever is a piece of leftover photo etch and a bit of scrap Evergreen. I hollowed out the center of the Vickers mount, replacing the missing section of the cross bar with yet more Evergreen rod. The leather straps on the magazines are Evergreen sheet styrene. I added fuel lines to the mixer on the instrument panel using copper wire, and fashioned the connection at the under-seat tank using a bit of brass tubing and a Vector Cut hex bolt.
I added a couple of additional wires/cables/linkages using fine wire. The rigging is monofilament. The two long lines will run outside the fuselage to the ailerons in the lower wing. By the way, any advice people have as to how to achieve a taught connection with these would be appreciated.
That is where I currently stand aside from beginning paint work on various bits (guns, engine struts, etc.). Next step is closing up the fuselage, which I have been procrastinating. (I freely admit a dislike and lack of talent at filling and sanding seams, see my Eindecker build). This accounts for at least some of my longwindedness tonight as it is allowing me to continue to put this off. ;)
Thanks for looking in; comments questions and advice welcome.
Chris
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Great to see the progress shots of your build which to date is extremely well done, the interior work is superb with an excellent choice of colours. I built this kit when it was first released and in my opinion is still the best kit Wingnuts have produced. I look forward to following along with your build.
Des.
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Now this is a treat! I am really looking forward to your build
Chris. An excellent start, with the cockpit area...nice!
I am never disappointed with your excellent work and
having a BisFit in the stash, yours will be a great help when
comes my turn. Lead on, my friend! :D
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks to you both for checking in.
Des, I am very familiar with your Bristol and have pored over that build log countless times. It is a both a valued reference and great source of inspiration for me.
Ernie, I am always glad to have you on board. Hopefully I can maintain sufficient pace to keep your interest!
Chris
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Beautiful start, Chris! It was Des's build that inspired me to buy the Biff and from the looks of it, it'll be yours that will inspire me to finally build it.
Cheers,
Bud
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Outstanding cockpit work! I am looking forward to the next update!
RAGIII
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Magnificent work so far Chris, the cockpit component is outstanding! I built this Kit several years back, I still believe it is one of, if not THE best Kit produced by Wingnut Wings. For the Aileron wires I think I drilled through the lower wing where they enter the upper surface, same for where they exit below further out the span and filled it flush with CA. The only pitfall I encountered was mounting the lower wing on the frame members, take your time and be careful at that stage. Looks like you've got a real gem in the making here.
Cheers,
Lance
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Bud, Rick and Lance, thanks for the comments, and sorry for the long delay in responding.
I thought I'd post a quick picture to show that I have, in fact, been slowly chugging along on this:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2337_zpsabq4uehp.jpg)
Lots of work, but not too many additional steps completed. Fuselage is closed up and the center seams have been filled, sanded and primed (the black in the photo above.) I won't say I won that battle, but I've at least beaten them into modest submission. I painted the leather and grey metal work before installing the cockpit assembly, which went in this evening. I will need to do a bit of work to get the join where the cockpit floor and fuselage meet smoothed out, but I'll let things dry overnight first. The wooden gunnery deck is just sitting in place for the moment.
In addition to the exhausts and crank case, I have painted all of the engine bits and assembly awaits. I am still fumbling about for a strategy for the ignition leads so have been procrastinating a bit there. The wings have had their upper surfaces primed (also black, their lower surfaces will get a lighter colored primer in anticipation of CDL), as have the prop, stabilizers, rudder, etc. Struts have been wood-grained, and I've started work on painting the Gaspatch Lewis gun(s).
I have also spent a LOT of time on my computer working on the artwork that I will send to my Silhouette cutter to cut the masks I am going to use for the aircraft's markings. Perhaps taking my cutter enthusiasm a bit too far, I have also been scanning various kit pieces to make assorted other paint masks. Give a man a hammer and everything looks like a nail....
Oh... I have chosen my scheme as well, and will be portraying 'A-7182', from the 48th Squadron. As I mentioned in the opening post, this was the aircraft that Lt. Keith Park was flying on Aug 17, 1915, when he and his gunner, 2Lt Arthur Noss, were credited with 4 downed Albatros D.IIIs. Other than the color profile in Guttman's Osprey book, I have been unable to find any reference materials for this particular aircraft, so I am going to have to make some decisions regarding the build. Am I safe to assume that unless otherwise recorded, the gunner's standard armament for a Brisfit in September 1917 was a single, rather than double, Lewis gun? Also, are there rules of thumb as to the likelihood of a 4 blade prop (Harry Dempsey's profile of the aircraft in the Guttman book shows a 2 blade prop), or a Cooper bomb rack (not shown in profile)? If anyone more knowledgeable than I can educate me, I would be most appreciative. (I may put a post up in the Info forum as well if the semi-double post isn't frowned upon.)
I hope to have more to show in the next day or two. Thanks for checking in, and as always, questions, comments, and in this case info are always welcome.
Chris
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Beautiful work Chris! In particular the Wood on the Observers deck and the leather padding on the front cockpit look awesome!
RAGIII
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Beautiful work Chris! In particular the Wood on the Observers deck and the leather padding on the front cockpit look awesome!
RAGIII
I agree wholeheartedly with what Rick has said
Des.
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Thanks very much Rick and Des.
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A very impressing start, a joy to look at. I especially like your work on the wicker seat and the canvas backside of the cockpit. Very well done. I purchased the Brisfit some weeks ago and will follow your progress closely.
Thanks for sharing it!
Borsos
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Great stuff Chris!
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Chris,
Looking even more spectacular!
I had the same issues as you regarding the 2 vs. 4 blade prop question; despite having read the Data File and the Albatros Publications Special cover to cover and studying photos on line and elsewhere I could not find a definite answer. In the end, for my Build (McKeevers A-7288) I went with the 2 bladed prop shown in the Osprey Profile as well. I followed the same path on the Cooper Bomb Rack, none shown on the Osprey Profile so I left it off. Your A-7182 is the same Production Batch as mine (A-7101 to A-7300) and nearly all photos of this Batch that I've seen show a 2 blade configuration. The exceptions are A-7220 in Data File 115 and A-7300 when modified for Night fighter Trials. As for the guns I believe the single Lewis was standard.
I hope someone has a more definitive answer or two for these questions, so many puzzles in this little hobby!
Cheers,
Lance
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Great looking work, Chris! Thanks for posting your updates.
Cheers,
Gary
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Yes, lovely job Chris,
Looking forward to seeing her coming along :)
Guy
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Thanks for looking in and leaving the kind comments, guys; appreciated as always.
I had the same issues as you regarding the 2 vs. 4 blade prop question; despite having read the Data File and the Albatros Publications Special cover to cover and studying photos on line and elsewhere I could not find a definite answer. In the end, for my Build (McKeevers A-7288) I went with the 2 bladed prop shown in the Osprey Profile as well. I followed the same path on the Cooper Bomb Rack, none shown on the Osprey Profile so I left it off. Your A-7182 is the same Production Batch as mine (A-7101 to A-7300) and nearly all photos of this Batch that I've seen show a 2 blade configuration. The exceptions are A-7220 in Data File 115 and A-7300 when modified for Night fighter Trials. As for the guns I believe the single Lewis was standard.
I hope someone has a more definitive answer or two for these questions, so many puzzles in this little hobby!
Cheers,
Lance
Lance, thanks for relaying your thought process to me, it is helpful. At least I feel like I am not completely off base. Its funny how much things have changed: here are two reasonably noteworthy aircraft (at least in the limited historical perspective of the Great War in the air) and not a picture exists, but I can find a limitless supply of pictures of random cats making funny faces with little effort.
Chris
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Terrific work, Chris. The woodgrain is gorgeous. I'm curious about the black primer...do
you feel it shows things up better than a light colour? Nice update, my friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks for the kind words Ernie. I have been using black primer (generally Mr. Finishing Surfacer, but I have picked up some Badger Stynlerez that I am experimenting with) for a couple of builds now. I began using it on a couple of WWII builds, and found it easier to get subtle results by fill in the panel centers with lighter undercoat than it was to shade panel lines with darker spray over lighter primer (This situation is reversed if you want to, say, highlight the fuselage framing, etc. so it works better in some cases than others, but I still find it easier to achieve the results I am after spraying light over dark.) Additionally, I originally used gray primer, but had a harder time judging coverage over gray plastic, so was less likely to overdo it with the black. Now it is mostly just habit, and the fact that I really like the Mr. Finishing Surfacer finish, and find it very easy to spray.
My initial results with the Badger are very good and it also comes in white and gray, so it is tonally agnostic. :) It is acrylic and odorless which is very nice, but the downsides include a more laborious airbrush cleaning and the need to CRANK up the psi which is at the limit of my inexpensive little compressor's abilities. I also use the Mr. Finishing surfacer to deal with some of the small hairline seams which I am unable to completely eliminate via conventional filling and sanding; I would not expect the Badger primer to perform this function.
Hope that helps.
Chris
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Thanks Chris...much appreciated. :D
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Coming together beautifully, Chris. Well done that man!
;) :)
vB
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Thanks Bob, I appreciate your looking in!
As I mentioned in the last update, not all of my time working on this build has been at the modeling bench. Here is an image showing some of the work I've been doing to prepare to paint the aircraft's markings:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/a7182_vector_zpspezwfkjo.jpg)
The roundels' measurements are taken from the kit's decal sheet (using the smaller of the two fuselage options.) The identification code was done mostly by hand using a scan of the Dempsey profile. I couldn't get the '2' worked out to my satisfaction, so I used my software's trace functionality to get an approximate shape using the '2' in the '12' for kit option D, which I cleaned up and shrunk to size. The fuselage bars are also based on the profile in the Guttman book. I did some basic math and they came out to something between to 4.75 and 5" wide in 1:1 scale, so I've made the assumption that humans were likely to pick a whole number and went with the 5". I went through a similar reverse-engineering process in determining the spacing between them. Hopefully I am correct that the RFC would have been using inches as a measure in 1917....
As an aside, the notch in the mask wall around the fuselage roundel is to help me line them up in relation to edge of the gunner's portal. Similarly, the closer edge on each of the tail numbers will line up with the vertical rear edge of the stabilizer. The red lines will cut through the Tamiya sheet tape I am using for the masks, and the green lines will also cut through the backing paper. The semi-octagonal shape of the lower wing masks is intended to minimize the amount of tape in contact with the Aviattic decals which I will be using for the CDL. I'll use Post-Its to expand the mask once in place. I have also found that too much extra material around the mask openings can make it hard for me to judge placement, so I have tried not to give myself too much extra material.
For software, I am using Silhouette Studio. While not perfect, it is the most complete and cost effective option for me at the moment. I used to have Adobe Illustrator, but couldn't justify the expense of upgrading once my operating system no longer supported my out of date version. Illustrator this is not, but I have managed to do everything I've needed to so far, and the concepts are similar.
Chris
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What a neat thing to be able to do your own markings. Interesting
explanation on your process, Chris. I am looking forward to seeing
the finished product, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Excellent work with the masks Chris, I looking forward to seeing how this translates into the actual aircraft markings.
Des.
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Thanks Ernie. My fingers are very much crossed.
I looking forward to seeing how this translates into the actual aircraft markings.
Des.
You and me both, Des! I painted the markings on my DVII, but its a pretty big jump from black crosses to here. This is certainly the most ambitious attempt at painting that I have undertaken.
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your work is spectacular
I'm looking forward
it's a real pleasure
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Thank you for the generous comments Moustique. I'm glad to have you along.
Chris
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I envy your ability to create those Masks! I need to find someone willing to create a few for me at a fair price. I don't have the equipment or skills :-[
RAGIII
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Time for an update.
More fun with vector art:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/mask_img_zpsjswf6vw2.jpeg)
One of my goals for this build has been to see what uses I can find for the Silhouette cutter in this hobby, and the CDL lower surfaces seemed like an opportunity to put some more complicated masks to use. I have spent nearly as much time working at the computer as I have at my modeling table, but enjoy this type of work, so it suits me. The intersection between computer design and the physical world has always been appealing to me (Bo, your 3D printing is completely fascinating to me...), so the cutter is right in the sweet spot for me.
I started by scanning the various kit parts to get a template from which to work, then used various internal photographs and design plans to work out the internal bits. Once I was satisfied with the artwork, I printed... er.... cut out the design on Tamiya sheet tape:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zps8osohhuk.jpg)
I used clear frisket film to transfer the weeded masks to the model:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zps4yxiej9a.jpg)
From here, it is straightforward airbrush work. Thin, loose layer of Tamiya Deck Tan (XF-55) for the areas between the spars where the darker upper wing shows through; remove mask and follow with a thin coat (3:1 thinner/paint) of XF-2 flat white to tie everything together.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsmp0ckspo.jpg)
As you can see in the vector art image above, I also cut a mask for a oil seepage stain on the lower wing. This took a bit more planning: Deck Tan and thin Flat White coats first without any masks. Mask the outline of the stain, and spray Desert Yellow (XF-59). Remove the stain mask, and put down the mask for the spaces between the spars and framing (this stays in place until painting is done). With this in place, cover the still exposed "stained" parts and spray a coat of XF-2. Uncover the stained spar areas, and cover the dry spar areas, spray Dark Yellow (XF-60) to represent the wood framing beneath the transparent wet linen:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zps6swhkmw7.jpg)
All of this will eventually be covered by Aviattic transparent CDL decals, so I sincerely hope I have struck the right contrast/color etc. The additional pre-decal staining seen above was done with oil washes and colored pencils. I will cover the stained section first as I think that has the most potential to miss the mark for the look I am hoping for, and I want to make sure I have extra decal material if needed.
Overall, the masking went fairly smoothly, and without too much trouble. In the first image, you can see where I modeled the internal spar in a number of pieces (between each rib) with the thought that I'd spray the first coat of Deck Tan, then remove them and "bury" it a bit with a second coat. These proved too thin and fussy to be effective: either the cutter had trouble generating cleanly separating the .75 mm wide pieces, or I couldn't keep them in place while transferring them to the model. I wound up just using .5 mm tape which was far simpler. (One could argue that the same could be said of the tried and true strips of tape method of making the rib tapes; like I said before, I wouldn't have done it this way if I didn't enjoy it.) I also took 2 attempts to get the stain masking procedure figured out: my first attempt involving removing and replacing the frame mask left visible lines where I did not get it perfectly lined up the second time.
That's it for now. The artwork for cutting the Aviattic sheet is already done, but I have decided to paint the upper surfaces first as I want to minimize the handling once the decals are on. Hopefully the next update won't be as delayed as this one was (I was away for 8 days on a family vacation after my last post.) Thanks for looking in, and as always, questions, comments or suggestions are always welcome.
Chris
p.s. Does anyone have any suggested (Tamiya) color mixes for the red and blue of the roundels and rudder? Thanks in advance.
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Very nice work ;) I think you'll find the CDL decal over what you have done will look just about perfect.
Keith
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Now those masks are amazingly well done, Chris! As Keith mentioned,
the CDL decals should look great over your preparations. Great update,
my friend. :D
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Exceptional work on the masks! I especially like the Oil Stain!
RAGIII
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Justin, Keith, Ernie & Rick, thank you very much for the comments.
Justin, not sure I am ready to go commercial, but I hope that means you are contemplating a Brisfit as I'd love to see that build. Keith and Ernie, my fingers are crossed! Rick, the stain is the bit about which I am least confident, so I appreciate your positive feedback.
Hope to have more to show soon.
Chris
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Up until now I have only been lurking and admiring the level of work shown by many of the modellers on this site. However, the work displayed on this particular model, and the imaginative use of the stencil cutter, forces me to comment, and favourably so.
And, allow me to add, the oil stain is most convincing.
I look forward to following this project through to compleation.
Best regards,
DP
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DP,
I am very honored that you chose to stop by and leave such a kind comment. These forums are a constant source of inspiration to me, so I am glad you are getting involved.
Chris
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Upper surfaces now wear more than just black primer.
I started the process with a loose coat of XF-53 Neutral Grey, followed by XF-52 Flat Earth over the rib tapes:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsktxitlb7.jpg)
Next, I masked the ribs and outer frame using a set of masks I cut on the Silhouette.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/upper_art_zpsfkji8x37.jpeg)
Once masked, I sprayed a quick layer of under color: the upper wings got XF-10 Flat Brown, and the lower wings, XF-51 Khaki Drab (with a bit off crossover for both). My goal was to have the surfaces that receive the most sunlight have a slightly browner tint and the more protected areas a more greenish one. I will paint the fuselage in a similar fashion. No pictures at this stage, but the appearance is very uneven and varied still.
Once dried, I removed the masks and sprayed everything with the final PC-10 Mix (XF-62 Olive Drab & XF-10 Flat Brown 2:1 as called for in the instructions). Thin coats, building up slowly until it looks tied together, but the under layers still show through (at least that's the goal).
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsdhvnkyoy.jpg)
Side comment: I am finding it fairly difficult to capture a photograph of the "PC-10" that looks like it does to my eye. As is visible in this picture, I next used a light grey colored pencil to outline the rib tapes and "seams" along the edges of the wings. The effect that I was trying to represent can be seen in this photo from James Fahey's (Jamo's) invaluable collection (I hope you don't mind my posting this James, and will remove it if you'd prefer):
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bristol%20F2B/Jan2012079.jpg)
The wing on the left shows the pencil work as it looks when first applied, the wing on the right shows the appearance after taking it back with a wet cotton bud. I was afraid to go too heavy with the effect (and opted not to do the outlines of the reinforcements around the hinges, etc.) but, seeing how much a coat of clear matte dampened things, I think I could have gone a bit further with it. Next build....
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsj0uraxsh.jpg)
I think the colors are close-ish in this picture, but the photograph over emphasizes the pencil marks. It is also hard to see the color variation between the upper and lower wings; in person, I can see the brown vs green, but it is subtle enough that I would likely not pick up on it if I wasn't aware of it.
Continuing on, this particular aircraft has now been positively identified:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsqdl8tmfw.jpg)
Aside from the little touch up required in the '8', the masking went reasonably smoothly. I mixed a touch of XF-55 Deck Tan into the X-2 Flat White (1:40) to tone it down a bit. Emboldened, I decided to have a crack at painting the roundels. I don't have pictures, but will describe my process for those interested: I again cut the masks from Tamiya sheet tape, and transferred them to the wing using an oversized piece of clear frisket film. I had taped the ailerons into position so sprayed the entire roundel as a unit: using the frisket film, I removed all but the outline mask from the surface, and put down a coat of the off-white mixture described above. Next, (with mixed success... more on this to come), I replaced the center pieces of the mask, and removed the blue section for painting with XF-8 Flat Blue. For the record, I used a bit of liquid masking agent where the two mask pieces cam together. Once everything had dried, I covered the blue section, removed the center dot, and sprayed red. In an exception to my reliance on Tamiya paints, I used Mr. Color 81, Russet, for this as it looked closest to the decal color to my eye. As I mentioned, I had varying degrees of success in my attempts. I'll go with the more flattering results first (everything will get clear coated and eventually weathered a bit):
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2385_zps8s0walij.jpg)(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsux41yvvk.jpg)
There is a bit of bleed around a couple of the rib tapes, and the thin white edging (very challenging in general) is not perfect, but the results are acceptable. On the other hand....
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2386_zpsgeklccex.jpg)
Well... it is a learning process, and there is no better instructor than failure. There is certainly more bleeding on this one, but the deal breaker for me is the misalignment of the aforementioned white border. This was the first one I did, and the process changed my technique a bit for the other wing. Here's what I learned:
• It is easier to place and remove tape off of a gloss surface than a flat one. Not shocking, but it made a real difference. The more you struggle to place and remove the pieces, the greater the odds one of the OMG-#?%!!#-annoyingly-thin ones will end up misshaped. Sorry.
• Do what you can to improve visibility. When everything has a coat of white paint it can be challenging to see how well the replaced mask lines up with its teammates already in place; there is just not enough contrast between the white painted wing surface, and the white painted masking tape. This is particularly true with a bit of glare on the surface of the glossy frisket tape. Prior to placing the mask on the starboard wing, I took a black sharpie and coated the tape in a number of places. Even with a bit of white paint overspray, it was much easier to see the mask edges, and therefore easier to get decent alignment.
• Don't be penny smart. I had issues in replacing the port side mask, but rather than "waste" material by cutting another mask, I attempted to fix the problem by removing and adjusting the creased piece. A single sheet of the masking tape is roughly $1.30 or so.... I'd gladly pay quite a bit more than that to not have to redo the wing now (not to mention the additional mask I will be cutting anyway...) I think my impatience to get results played a factor here as well, but the concept is the same: pay now, or pay more later. Either way, it was a poor decision by me.
I think that covers it. My plan is to sand the roundel back bit so that the edges don't show, and repeat the wing painting process from the last unsullied rib tape. I am hoping to not have to strip the whole thing, as I can't say I want to repeat the lower surface process as well. This is why I decided to paint the upper surfaces prior to applying the CDL decals... hopefully I will put my experience to good use and get two clean lower wing roundels when the time comes!
Anyway, long post, so thanks to those who read through it. Comments, questions, and advice are welcome. If it is interesting or helpful to anyone, I can photograph the roundel masking process (I'm honestly not sure what the pictures would add, but I'm glad to do it).
Thanks for checking in,
Chris
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Chris, may I say that your dedication to getting it correct is exemplary, as is your use of an actual photograph as a model. Thank you, and the others on this forum who do the same, for seeking fidelity to the real thing, as opposed to building yet another model of someone else's model.
Likewise with your determination to not overdo the effect of light reflected off rib tapes and the raised areas of fabric stretched over the ribs. Much like the apparent black inking of panel lines with the WWII crowd, WWI aircraft that appear to be wearing striped fabric is something that has become di riguer among builders less willing to take the time to observe and study real aircraft.
But I should cease, as I am merely reinforcing the fact that my wife's referring to me as "the Olde Wing Bag" is accurate.
Best regards,
DP
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Chris, I think you are really doing a marvelous job on the painted-on markings. As you
say, it's a learning process. The last roundel shows how you have gotten a handle on the
whole thing. The vert. stabiliser and rudder look excellent and your treatment of the rib
tapes with the light grey pencil is inspired. Thanks for giving us so much valuable information,
and I am looking forward to the next installments, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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DP and Ernie:
Thank you both yet again for your generous comments.
Chris
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Chris,
Amazing work on the wing painting and rib shading/outlining! I am also impressed with the masks and painting of the Markings. Well Done!
RAGIII
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Wow! It Looks great.
A complete new level of paintjob I have seen before.
Bye,
Manfred
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Excellent work with the masks and the painting Chris, a beautiful job.
Des.
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That's pretty neat Chris!
I love it when people push the boundaries!
Guy
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Thanks all; very much appreciated.
Guy, I'd certainly agree that MY boundaries are getting pushed!
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Quick update:
I have stripped and repainted the PC10 on the offending wing and aileron, and additionally painted the fuselage using the same process that I have previously described. I decided not to mask off any of the fuselage's underlying structure as I didn't find any reference photos (either current or historical) in which the frame can be seen in the surface finish.
I have also begun the process of re-painting the wing roundel and starting the fuselage markings:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsu7ipid9t.jpg)
Keeping the white bars on the fuselage square was a bit of a challenge, but I think I am pretty close. I am waiting for the white to dry before continuing to mask the other roundel colors, but since the bars are finished, I removed some of the masking to take a look (stabilizer in place for the picture):
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsiywgxqlv.jpg)
That's all for now,
Chris
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This is coming along extremely well Chris.
Des.
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The fuselage bars came out beautifully, Chris. Continuing
excellence in your work, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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The fuselage bars came out beautifully, Chris. Continuing
excellence in your work, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
I agree with my old friend Ernie completely!
RAGIII
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excellent work
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Des, Ernie, Rick and moustique: thanks to all of you for your kind comments. Your generosity is sincerely appreciated. :)
Here is where she currently stands:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/IMG_2411_zps4hilbznm.jpg)
Tail fin and scarff ring are just there for the picture. The roundels have a... um... handcrafted feel to them; I am hoping that the finished product will look like a model of a subject with slight irregularities rather than a just a poorly executed executed model, but that remains to be seen. At the moment, I am telling myself that the fact that the roundels are not perfect is a positive thing because it looks like they were, in fact, painted. There is, however, a strong possibility that this is simply justification after the fact. ::)
Despite seeing this effect on every build I've done so far, I was a still bit surprised when removing the various masks at how the subtle variations in tone that were at one point visible in the PC10 largely vanish under a coat of semi-gloss and when presented against the bright whites of the markings. (The flash seems to have brought them back a bit.) On the other hand, the Battleship Grey of the cowling, which was painted prior to the rest of the fuselage and subsequently covered with masking tape, appears to be a slightly darker shade than the metal framing below. I'll have to attend to that.
At this point, (ignoring the assorted touchups), the upper surfaces are basically painted and await clear coats, sundry decals, and weathering. Which means.... I will soon be applying the Aviattic linen decals to the lower surfaces. Fingers very much crossed.
Thanks for checking in,
Chris
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Chris, your painted-on markings are a real success in my estimation! You
are completely right thinking that the little variations are a positive thing.
Decals are great, but your efforts far out-class them. The work you have
done up to now is superb and I look forward to the start of the undersides.
Very well done, my old friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Nice one Chris,
You can't beat painted insignia!
Guy
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Chris,
I really like your rib tape painting. Not overly done and looks realistic. The variations in the PC 10 overall finish are also terrific. As for the markings I like them. Something I will have to try in the future. Only you can decide if they are up to your standards.
RAGIII
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Ernie, thank you for the comments. As always, you are a such a supportive presence on these forums and I am glad that you are riding along on this build.
Guy, I sure hope that the results wind up adding to rather than distracting from the finished result! I am glad to see you checking in here as your successful foray into salt-masking had me undertake another round of experiments with the technique. I am now of the opinion that the white staining was due to my use of isopropyl alcohol as my thinner; the issue seems to have disappeared when I switched to Mr. Leveling Thinner. I have plans to put the technique to use on this aircraft as the TVAL photos show a similar effect on their Brisfit.
Rick, thanks for the nice comments. With a bit of touch up here and there, I think the markings will fall somewhere into the "just a bit less than I had hoped for" to "I can live with these" zone. It is all part of the learning process, and I have been enjoying figuring it out.
Thanks again to you all,
Chris
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Linen time:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsoyc3rbcr.jpg)
I gave the lower surfaces a couple of coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss and let them cure over night. I am using Aviattic RFC Clear Doped Linen decals cut on the Silhouette. Application was very easy: warm water (with a few drops of dish soap) for 45 seconds to loosen the decal, placed on the gloss surfaced and nestled into place with a flat brush. Once in place, I applied pressure with a folded up bit of paper towel, and worked out any trapped air bubbles with the brush. The only other treatment was a bit of Micro Sol around the hardware fittings to help conform to the irregular surface. The upper center wing piece needed a tiny bit of extra attention due to the unusual shape with the compass mount and additional hardware, but it settled in fine. Really very simple, and the decals couldn't be easier to work with.
That is not so say the process went perfectly smoothly, however... After cutting the first wing separately as a pre-caution (I was nervous about the fit, but my patterns turned out to be fine), I let the cutter run through the rest of the pieces while I stepped away. When I returned to my desk, it seems that the carrier mat, which is tacky and holds the work piece in place, somehow lost its grip on the decal sheet and had the sheet was a bit of a mess. Consequently, I had a handful of pieces that did not cut properly, and a Aviattic sheet that looked like it been through the war. Fortunately, I was able to find enough undamaged space to cut the missing sections, but now had no extra material in case of error. Oh, and speaking of error...
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zps7pszpsgq.jpg)
Yes, in an inspired bit of brilliance, I cut the wrong piece, and thus my linen process has resulted in this:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsntyukswx.jpg)
Facepalm.
Well, the upside is an opportunity to show a nice before and after comparison to anyone wondering how much shows through the Aviattic decals:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsylj7dt4b.jpg)
So, it looks like I will be ordering some more of the very fine Aviattic decals, and I may be on hold for a bit. Sharp eyed viewers may have noticed in the 2nd photo that rotating the cut decal 90° clockwise is very close to the unfinished wing shape, so I could attempt a salvage operation. I'd need to fill in the hardware indentations which would be along the trailing edge, and the rounded corner is not a perfect match for the wings' curve. Some of that will be over painted by the wrap-around PC10, but I'm guessing that the fudged areas will not be invisible.
Anyway, thanks for checking in; comments, questions and suggestions are welcome.
Chris
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Chris,
Fantastic results! I can admit to being able to "feel your pain" regarding the reversed pattern last piece of decal, I've done the same more often then I'll freely admit on ailerons.......bottom surface/top surface reversal, so easy to do! :-\ :o
Beautiful results so far, I hope your order from Richard happens quickly and you can continue progress on this beautiful Build!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hello Chris,
please don't worry too much about the wrongly cut decal. Your progresses - especially regarding the linen effect - are outstanding! That one becomes a wonderful Brisfit and I'll watch and learn till the day I'll build mine.
Best wishes
Borsos
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Ups and downs not withstanding Big Blue, your build is courageous and inspiring.
This is better than the local picture show's Saturday Matinee serials I saw as a kid.
Can't wait to see what happens next week! ;D
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Looking great Chris! Like the others I have done my share of reverse cut decals :-[
RAGIII
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Looking great Chris! Like the others I have done my share of reverse cut decals :-[
RAGIII
Oh me too.... and not just once!
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Thanks guys for the encouraging words. I see that I have joined truly good company with my cutting error!
Other than the annoyance of the delay, I am not too dispirited. Now that things have dried and a bit of time has passed, I am somewhat concerned that my shading effect looks heavier handed that I had intended. As this is my first experience with the clear linen decals (not counting the lozenge), I was unsure about how much my efforts would show through; as it turns out, quite a bit. I'll have a bit of time to see how I feel about it while I wait for my delivery from across the pond (my order went in to Richard and company this evening).
Thanks again for following along and sharing your thoughts,
Chris
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Oh my, Chris! The CDL looks spectacular and you did a superb job painting the roundels. Very convincing.
Welcome to the RCDS*, mate. We've all been there.
Cheers,
Bud
*Reverse Cut Decal Society
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Time for a long overdue update.
My shipment of CDL decals from Aviattic arrived a bit less than two weeks ago, and I have put them to use. As I mentioned a few posts back, I had a nagging feeling that my wings' transparency / shading effect had come out heavier than I wanted, but I was on the fence about redoing them. Well, the color of the replacement decals was sufficiently different than my sheet from almost 2 years earlier that it basically made my decision for me. After a quick post asking for advice on decal removal in the Hints & Tips forums, off they came. I went over all the surfaces (other than the stained center section) with a very dilute coat of Tamiya Flat White (needed the matte surface for the colored pencils to have workable surface) until the contrast between the ribs and the open areas was diminished sufficiently.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsbbygqqzd.jpg)
After adding minor stains and seams with watercolor pencils, I sprayed only a single coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss to prepare for the decals; there were now enough layers on the wings that some of the details were starting to get soft. Once again, the decals went on with minimal struggle, although I did have a bit more trouble with silvering than I had with the first iteration... a fact I attribute to the single vs multiple gloss coats of the prior decal job.
Here are the results photographed to allow something of a before and after comparison with the mid-progress picture I posted before:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zps29lhxiog.jpg)
It is hard to tell since the lighting and exposure are different in the two versions, but the structural effect is now less pronounced and I am happier with it. (There is a shadow across the lower section of the wing that accentuates the recent photo's contrast). The linen color is also different as I noted (the older version was warmer as can be seen below), but I am happy with that as well.
I sealed the decals with another coat of Alclad, and devised a plan to paint the PC10 border surrounding the edges. Concerned about the possibility of masking tape lifting the decals, I wanted to minimize the area of sticky surfaces in contact with the wings. My solution was the following:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsaknjvbs1.jpg) (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsndirqzm4.jpg)
Using the vector art I created to cut the Aviattic decals, I internally offset the outer borders by a small amount (1.4 mm or approximately 1.75 scale inches) for the border, plus 2 additional millimeters for the tape edges. I printed a tape guide corresponding to the width of Tamiya tape I used for the edges to allow for a consistent 2mm overhang, and cut the masks out of copy paper on the Silhouette. Finally, I cut the curved tape sections as seen above, and used the roll of 6mm Tamiya tape for the straight sections. Final result: paper masks with a 2mm border of tape that covered all but a 1.4mm border around all of the outer edges of the CDL surfaces. I also cut a few 1.4mm wide strips that I temporarily placed along the wings' edges to guide mask placement.
Once the borders were painted, I masked and painted the roundels in the same manner described in the earlier post. Again, I attempted to remove as much of the tape surfaces as possible, replacing much of the outer areas of the masks with paper. These roundels were less challenging to paint that the others due to the lack of the thin white border around their circumference. If the upper wing's mask was replaced with a .25 mm error it would be more obvious since it is a large percentage of that white border; on the lower wings, the same placement error is much harder to detect in the wider blue ring. This is a long winded way to say that the masking went smoothly.
Following the roundels, I (mostly) masked and painted the various bits of non-linen hardware on the wing surfaces. I forgot to paint the small bracket on the upper wing's center section, and need to repaint a couple of fittings as the masks I cut were a touch too small leaving a tiny white border around the black hardware. Here are the overall results:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsahw6tk9v.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsmdkjs9io.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad319/goBigBlueNYG/Bristol%20F2b/FullSizeRender_zpsrfu0jkkt.jpg)
The whitish looking section where the compass mounts in the upper wing is glare from the gloss surface, as is the apparent light band in the closeup of the wing tip. Aside from the hardware repaints, there are a couple of touchups needed (should be my profile's footer... would save me typing), and a few spots where the decal's edge needs a bit of clear to hold it down better (one of them is visible above). Obviously, nothing above the decals has yet had any weathering to speak of, and I need to give everything the appropriate clear coats to finish things off.
I did some work on other bits while waiting on the decals, but nothing worth showing at this point, so we are basically caught up. I have still not decided if I am building this aircraft with the engine panels in place or removed. As nice a little model as the Falcon is, I generally prefer the Bristol's lines with the panels in place. Now that the wings and fuselage are nearly finished I am running out of time to procrastinate on the decision: time to either detail the engine, or mount it and move on. Well, I guess I still need to apply the stencil decals to the various linen surfaces... whew.
Thanks to all who took the time to read through this. Comments, questions, advice welcome as always.
Chris
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Beautiful!
Cheers,
Bud
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Very impressive. I like it a lot.
S.
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Thank you, Bud & Stefan.
Chris
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Genius approach to the edging challenge, Chris. Perfect results from what the photos show, nice and clean and very sharp lines. You are continuing to progress to a truly spectacular finish on this Build, keep up the great work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Genius approach to the edging challenge, Chris. Perfect results from what the photos show, nice and clean and very sharp lines. You are continuing to progress to a truly spectacular finish on this Build, keep up the great work!
Cheers,
Lance
I couldn't have said it better! Beautifully done, Chris!!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thank you both for your generous comments, Lance and Ernie. I appreciate the encouragement.
Chris
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Gorgeous Chris! The rib tapes are perfectly weathered/shaded. The edging is spot on, clean and crisp!
RAGIII
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Gorgeous Chris! The rib tapes are perfectly weathered/shaded. The edging is spot on, clean and crisp!
RAGIII
I can only absolutely agree!
Borsos
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Wow. Those CDL'd surfaces are just stunning. They look 1:1! Well done!!