forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Completed models => Topic started by: Gerg on January 23, 2016, 04:07:51 AM
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Hello group,
I have finished my Pfalz D III. No build log this time but I hope to do one in the future. This post will have a number of pictures though. I will likely post those over the next few weeks along with info. on materials and paints used along with technics tried.
I want to start off by listing the goals I had with this model.
1 I wanted to complete a model! This is the first model I have built in 4 years and the first I have completed in over that. Come hell or high water, right, wrong or indifferent I needed to have a completion under my belt. I tried to do a good job but did not obsess. Mistakes were made and that was fine.
2 I wanted to rig a biplane. This is new territory for me and I had no idea if I could pull it off. It is a bit intimidating. Now that I am done I have to say it was not so difficult. Also, it is really enjoyable work. Success only came from much help though. The info Des provides on his website was invaluable. There were many others on this forum as well. Also, I found this very helpful. http://www.austinsms.org/Rigging-Scale-Mode-Biplanes.pdf Besides the help on rigging, two tools were indispensable: my Optivisor and Squadron Fine Point Tweezers. Using the Optivisor is like having Xray vision except that you see the invisible instead of the hidden. I have many pairs of tweezers, the Squadron fine point are incredibly better at handling the rigging line.
3 I wanted to just have fun with it. Knowing this model was more than anything, a learning step, took the pressure off. Although I started out with visions of this plane in a very sweet display case I have yet to build, it became apparent that it wasn't going to make the cut. It was then that the joy of building, much like when I was a kid, came back. At some point I will build something (I hope the FE 2b or the recently ordered Snipe) that will occupy a display case in the home. Until then my models will be staged around my shop where I can see them.
4 A secondary goal was to try new technics, mostly in the area of weathering. When I gave up modeling before, I was just starting to try some dry brushing and pin washes. I never became proficient. Now there are even more ways to weather or add realism. With this model I took some tentative steps but I didn't want to ruin an otherwise acceptable model trying something new. I came close with doing just that and will explain in a future post.
A note on the pictures. The camera has a way of changing the way something looks. Usually it makes it look worse. I have to say in my case it seems to have made the model look better. Maybe it is because I tried not to include any of the flaws in the pictures? There are plenty and lessons learned. Be very careful handling the model after spraying with Dullcote. I have a couple finger prints that testify to that advise!
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6657r1_zpsgx2b4s9y.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6657r1_zpsgx2b4s9y.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6647r1_zpsxphgbuqd.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6647r1_zpsxphgbuqd.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6641r1_zpsyv0snhbd.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6641r1_zpsyv0snhbd.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6645r1_zpsj5hlzfgy.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6645r1_zpsj5hlzfgy.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6659r1_zpsxtafxyma.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6659r1_zpsxtafxyma.jpg.html)
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That looks great! I especially like the staining under the wing.
What paint did you use for the silver-grey?
Drew
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I used equal parts Tamiya flat aluminum XF16, sky grey XF19 and titanium silver XF32 for my first coat. Someone else posted those ratios on here but I am afraid I don't remember who. Sorry to that person for not giving them credit. I thought it was a little dark so the second coat was a bit more XF16 and a bit less XF32. I also did a filter of sorts to dirty it up. In a future post I am going to talk about that because it didn't really work out the way I wanted.
Greg
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Greg,
If one of your goals was to produce a beautiful model you met that one too! Very nicely done; very clean, nice subtle weathering, and a very "real" appearance. Your rigging is also very well done, hard to believe it's your first attempt.
Looking forward to your next Build, great work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Very beautiful Pfalz, Greg! I would be very proud to show her off in my display case. Seems all your goals have been met. I look forward to your next project.
Cheers,
Bud
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That is a stunner. If I could have produced a model of that quality (warts and all) as a first attempt I would be justifiably proud. Remember all models have mistakes - but usually it is only the modeller who knows where they are and therefore can spot them. I do not see any problems with this one - as the others have written it has a super finish and would grace any display case.
Stephen.
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Hi Greg,
wonderful work, it´s looking great! Congratulation.
And thank you for the "rigging link", this could be helpful.
I´m looking forward to your next model! :D
Regards
Jörg
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Congratulations on completing your first Wingnuts kit and you certainly did a beautiful job with it. The overall finish is superb and the rigging is very well done.
Des.
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I would like to say thank you for all the kind words. I am happy with the results but like any modeler I can see things that could have been better. Mostly that boils down to being a bit more careful in the final stretch. I got a little careless and had 2 big blobs of CA to clean off and 2 well define finger prints in the dullcote to fix. The fixes weren't as good as I would have like but acceptable. In the case of the glue I sanded it away and brush painted them. They didn't match the rest of the finish, I knew they wouldn't, so it was my thought to make them look like a fabric patch, damage fixed from possibly enemy fire? I am sure that sort of thing happened but I didn't know how to model that. One question I had was what shape would a patch take? Random, to fit the damage or a nice neat round or square patch? In the end I made them angular and random. They are hard to notice so they don't bother me too much. With the finger prints I sanded them to the point they were less obvious and then smeared on some grim from a Tamiya weathering set.
Weathering.
I did learn a lesson on using Future/Kleer. I had read more than a few people say they brush only the areas to receive decals with Future. That seemed like a good idea. I decided to do that as well as some of the areas I knew I would be using a pin wash. After decals and more Future to seal them I started the pin washes. I used minerals spirits and artist oil. I forget which one, I would have to go look, but it was a dark brown black. In the areas I used it, I cleaned up with a cotton swab and kinda liked the dirty look left on the finish. I thought this may a good way to make the finish in scale, and a bit less new. I decided to cover the whole model with this mixture and wipe most of it back off. I guess this is considered a filter? Before doing this I coated the entire model with Future. 2 coats. Two things happened that I will learn from. First, the areas that I initially coated with Future (areas where decals and pin washes were applied) had a greater density of Future. Enough so that even after a flat coat I can see the difference. The filter also was a bit blotchy in these areas. Next, the filter is a bit darker than I would like. The pictures don't really show that. I was under the impression that the flat coat would make the filter less prominent but I think it did the opposite.
On my next model I will apply Future evenly on the entire model. Not saying the other way is a bad idea but for me at this stage it is safer to do the entire model.
Maybe it is just me but are WW1 planes a bit harder to weather? By harder I mean there is less opportunity to weather. With WW2 to modern planes you have panel lines to darken. Not so with WW1 or very limited panel lines. Also, the life of an airplane from the WW2 area to the modern was/is much greater. Planes didn't get old in WW1. Therefore less wear and tear to model, less grim and soot also. I could be wrong about this but not enough pictures so show how they weathered. Certainly none in color.
While on the subject, is a silver fabric covered aircraft a bit harder to weather? No painted aluminum to chip. Hard to fade a silver color as opposed to a painted color. Preshading of the ribs is out. In the end I thought dirtying it up was about it. A bit of rust and mud too.
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Hi,
Yes, the manufacturers always sees any errors. Because he did it. ;) But you also learn from it. I have just finished my first WnW model (almost) ready and I have some mistakes, but the overall picture is very satisfying. And the next time I know what I must do better. if I have my Workbench again, I'll finish it and then I'll present it.
And your model, I really like it, chapeau!
Kindly regards
Jörg
PS. These are not directly answers to your questions, but I just wanted to have said. ;)
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Gerg,
Hard to believe your first WNW model - looks really great!
What is going to be your next project?
Regards
Dave
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Dave,
Well I have already broken the agreement I made with myself (no stash). I have ordered 3 more planes. They are on the way. The Sopwith Pup, SE.5a and Sopwith Snipe. I think I will start with the SE.5a. It won't be for awhile though. I have a furniture project I need to do first. I should now have a couple years of WNW models to build but I think it is very likely I will order something else before they are built. I am going to keep my purchases in check though and stick with WNW. No reason to look elsewhere at this point.
I look at the Pup and SE.5a as learning models (all models should be but more so for those 2) and save the Snipe for a later build. I really like the look of that one and want to get it right.
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I for one , would love to see some pic's , wonderful build 8)
Terri
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Gerg,
I second Terri I'd love to see your in progress photographs as well my friend. Your very first WNW build is Outstanding! Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Lovely looking Pfalz Greg.
Cheers
Pete.
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One question I had was what shape would a patch take? Random, to fit the damage or a nice neat round or square patch? In the end I made them angular and random.
Generally the patches you see in photos are rather neatly applied, but as everything it depended on the skill of the crew and the amount of time they had to carry the work out before the next sortie. Often German aircraft sported little circular roundel patches (british or french) to commemorate bullet strikes from the enemy. WNW even supplies these in many of the kit decal sheets! (Can't rem if it is on the Pfalz D.IIIa sheet). Sometimes the patches were quite crude, too.
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That is an excellent build especially as it's your first WNW. You have every right to be very pleased with what you've achieved. I just hope when I build my first WNW it's anywhere near as good as yours.
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Extremely nice work! I am working on this kit now and it is not my first WNW kit! I can only hope mine looks as nice in the end! Your seat belts and interior look awesome!
RAGIII
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Gerg, you did a wonderful job on this first WnW of yours. I have to echo the remarks made by the others - you've got to be congratulated on your model. Currently working on this kit myself, I'm excited to try some new techniques on a silver-grey scheme which I've never tried previously.
Cheers,
Gary
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Bo thanks for the info.
I am going to post info on how I did some of the effects and techniques used. For this post I will cover how I did the mud. I am only learning skills beyond building a decent model so I am not speaking from authority here. I also know there are a number of ways to get the same results. This is how I did it though.
I used Tamiya Model Masters. Set A
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6721_zpsfcpccbf5.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6721_zpsfcpccbf5.jpg.html)
I am new to these weathering sets but so far I really like them. I was able to find them on Amazon for nearly half price with shipping so I will soon have the first 6 sets. My only hesitation with them is not knowing how much I will get to use them. If I built armor I am sure I would use them a lot but maybe not so much with WWI planes.
I rubbed the Light Sand on the side of the tires and the darker Mud on the bottom. I didn’t like the look. The bottom needed some depth to it. I then scraped a small amount of the mud from the set and put it on my palette. Adding a very small amount of water I made a muddy paste. I applied this to the bottom of the tires. The light sand on the sides of the tires needed some streaking I felt, so I used a small brush (20/0 spotter) dripped in water then wiped off so it was barely damp, to streak the sides, in an attempt to make it look like mud that had moved across the tire as it was spinning. After the mud color on the bottom of the tires had dried I coated it with Future/Kleer. I wanted to give the mud mixture more adhesion and also thought that the Future would give it a wet look. With only one coat that did not happen but with another coat it might have.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6646r2_zpsyiwcspuq.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6646r2_zpsyiwcspuq.jpg.html)
For the mud splashes on the wing bottom I used the mud paste. I made it a bit more watery, and then using a very small brush, I held the end opposite the bristles and flicked the bristle end. This took a little trial and error. One thing I really like about the Tamiya Weathering sets is the ability to simply wipe them off with a damp brush or paper towel. When I got splatters that were too big I used a damp brush to clean them off.
I made another water paste using the Light Sand and did more splattering to add variation of color. I did not seal the mud under the wing and it seems stuck on pretty good.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6654r1_zpsd2w1yik6.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6654r1_zpsd2w1yik6.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6656r1_zpsyyhiilxu.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6656r1_zpsyyhiilxu.jpg.html)
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Rust.
I didn’t have any rust paint (XF9) as the directions called for so I tried to use a red brown paint with artist oils but was not happy with the results. I decided to buy the XF9 but didn’t think it would look much better. After looking at other models on this site I knew rust color paint wasn’t going to cut it. About this time I was busy setting up the xmas tree and I came across RUST. Someone, likely me, had not poured the water out of the stand and over the following year the water dried up and left a rusty powder. This is strange because the metal seems to be galvanized under the paint.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6109_zpsrgny6ees.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6109_zpsrgny6ees.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6107r1_zpsez4zlenp.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6107r1_zpsez4zlenp.jpg.html)
I removed what I could without getting any debris mixed in.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6110r1_zpsd256djk3.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6110r1_zpsd256djk3.jpg.html)
I had some Vallejo matt varnish and used it to make a rust paint. The varnish required thinning and I experimented with different densities of rust pigment. The rust effect is very controllable by varying the pigment or water added for thinning.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6158r1_zpsfla96xp4.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6158r1_zpsfla96xp4.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6232_zpsfbzoklvk.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6232_zpsfbzoklvk.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6245_zpsggrsps2c.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6245_zpsggrsps2c.jpg.html)
I have noticed that some on here will hollow out the end of the exhaust. I think that looks very good. I don’t own the right tools at this point to do that so I used a black sharpie to darken the end. Not as good as hollowing out the pipe but I think the effect is not too bad.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6751_zpskwkbmf2g.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6751_zpskwkbmf2g.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6756r1_zpslvlxon7b.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6756r1_zpslvlxon7b.jpg.html)
I have had my eye out for rust since discovering the rust in the tree stand. A couple weeks after setting up the tree stand I changed the water filter for the house supply. I am on a well and there is a lot of iron in my water. When I changed the filters I poured off most of the water and kept the sediment in the bottom, a sandy rusty mess. I let this settle for a few hours and again poured off the clear water. The rest I poured through a screen filter, onto a sheet of aluminum foil, to let it dry. I scrapped the dry powder up and added it to the other rust I had.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6746_zpsz0vlh0mc.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6746_zpsz0vlh0mc.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6748_zpsgig7krxz.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6748_zpsgig7krxz.jpg.html)
While on the topic of rust I wanted to share what I have learned about the Tamiya Weathering Sets. I experimented with them and for comparison included actual rust. I used a white index card and also an index card painted black. The Tamiya colors are Rust, Orange Rust and Burnt Red.
I included an extra sample of the actual rust on the white card. It is the one in the middle. I sprinkled dry pigment on the mixture while it was still wet. I wanted to see what a scaly texture would look like. I overdid it with that sample but I think if care was taken a more scale like effect could be achieved.
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6739_zps2fh67rm0.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6739_zps2fh67rm0.jpg.html)
(http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj562/Gerg154/IMG_6738_zpsjxfgwkvo.jpg) (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Gerg154/media/IMG_6738_zpsjxfgwkvo.jpg.html)
I have a question for the group. I was not sure how much to rust up the exhaust. I had two thoughts. If the exhaust came from the factory bare (bare steel or bare cast) then it would likely be on the more rusty end of the scale. If it came from the factory painted black then it would gradually become rusty. So the question is: Was the exhaust and intake manifold bare or painted or coated in some other manner?
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I'm late for the party on this one but have just read the thread right through. First off Gerg, congratulations on producing a stunning model all round. Though my Camel build nears it's end I have yet to do a Wingnut model and if I can make one half as well as you have then I will be really well pleased.
I also enjoyed reading your detailed descriptions, both on your thought processes and on your techniques - thanks for taking the time to do that. The link to the rigging info is new to me too and that is now safely stored.
I am very much in the same stage in that this is a new kind of model subject to me too and can appreciate your comments vis the weathering and spraying of Future. FWIW I usually weather overall after a model is (more or less) finished but soon realised this would not be possible. I sprayed Future coats as I went along keeping the pressure high at 25 psi and keeping the 'brush well back from the parts. (This mists it on and the degree of gloss build up can be kept to a minimum) I have also basically weathered the parts as they were added but once finished gave an overall wash with white spirit and oil - a filter as you say - being extremely careful not to catch the rigging with the brush. Certainly not as easy as doing it on a jet or WWII model but it evened everything out. I have used white spirit and oil on all my models to date and it will leave a stain in Tamiya paint unless that has been protected with Future - usually though I find this adds to the character of the model providing of course that it's a weathered subject one is trying to replicate. I'm not intending to 'teach Granny to suck eggs' here Gerg, just to comment that I've discovered the same issues and tried to tackle them as they arose. Looks like my learning curve is as steep as yours.
The discovery of rust 'pigment' (for free) is enlightening - how much more authentic can it be and the results speak for themselves. I can't answer your question re painting of the original as I don't know but the effect is certainly very convincing.
Like you I too have a growing unintended stash of WnW - I look forwards to hearing of your future exploits with them and, as said, hope I can get to grips with mine with an outcome as good as yours.
Well done indeed :)
Regards - Tug
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Tug,
I am happy you stopped by my thread. I may not have come across your build otherwise (at least for some time). I have spent a great deal of time perusing multiple forums across multiple genres in order to come up to speed but I haven't yet delved too deep into the builds on this forum. I have to say after seeing yours I am very happy to know about it. I have been looking for just that very thing. Very detailed and like you said, you include your thought process. At the stage I am at the level of detail you are including is of great help (for that matter at any stage). I read some of the early posts and had to skip to the end to see where you are at in your build. The Camel is looking awesome. I am looking forward to reading the entire post.
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Nicely done and great info on the mud and rust.
Ed
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Nicely done and great info on the mud and rust.
Ed
I agree with my Amigo 100%. Now I just have to go outside and around the house looking for rusty metal things 8)
RAGIII
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Beautiful model, well done.
Cool tip about the rust pigment, I'm going to try that.