forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Suffolk Lad on September 03, 2015, 07:18:22 AM
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Hello :),
I've been modelling aircraft - mainly jets, along with some modern armour - for the last twelve years. Despite those subject choices I've had a love of First War aircraft for many years but this is my first attempt to model something since the early seventies. Then I made, I'm pretty certain, all the available mainstream 1/72 kits at that time - Revell, Airfix, Esci etc. Overseas work occurred around this time and it was all left well behind though not forgotten.
Quite sometime back - have no idea when and certainly on a whim - I bought a 1/72 Roden kit of one of my favourite fighters the Fokker EV/DVlll. Though there was no intention to build it it sparked a desire to add more and slowly a small collection grew adding all those previously made along with some types only dreamed about before, the Siemens Shuckert for instance and some of the 'new' (to me) 1/48 scale. It's not a big collection by any means, none save one were ever intended to be built (Hanriot HD2 float plane) but even that still sits in the box.
When WnW were first released I confess I considered them to be far to expensive but, as time went on with build articles perused in great depth, seeing them at shows and on the net I have finally succumbed to their remarkable charm.
We - my wife that is - have several WW1 Aviation prints around the home. I say we as it's always been a joint decision to buy them. It all began with a Robert Taylor print of Sopwith Camels and grew from there. Since WnW evolution I have harboured the idea that it would be nice to have a small case with two aircraft in on the sideboard below one of the prints. That's my intent at this point though the desire to build others has obviously grown but 'first steps first'
I bought the Hobby Craft Camel quite sometime ago. I had previously entered one of my jets at Telford and whilst it did not place it was awarded the NeOmega prize which was any item to the value of £20. I chose the Le Rhone 1/32 scale engine thinking of it as an addition to the collection. When I saw the Camel sometime later I bought it to go with it even though it's the Clerget version.
Now it's not exactly a great kit by today's standards but it does appear quite accurate in shape and I've often looked at it with half an eye as to whether to have a go. This site has done more than most in making my mind up !
Enough of the preamble then - it's time to make that first step.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zy-AZ914I9s/VeTMpcBP8DI/AAAAAAAANM0/SPmlk_yv5Xg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7204.JPG)
I bought the Windsock book recently, also available was a copy of WW1 Scale Drawings and the Harleyford books I still have from my interest in the sixities.
The wing has very prominent rib tapes and poorly represented riblets - quite thin and not reaching the spar position. At first I considered the rib tapes too wide so it was decided to remove everything right back to the main surface and replace them using masking tape. It was only after they were removed and several studies of the Ian Stair drawings later (particularly the cutaway) I noticed that there are two tapes per rib the top one being 2-1/2 wide which made the kit ones just about right!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-57p9Xbgpk7k/VdzN1Dxxj3I/AAAAAAAANK0/pZgr8fn37d4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7154.JPG)
A test piece was made from a piece of plastic card moulded to the approximate section of the wing and a trial to see how well the tape would adhere made.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fifQwBS2nss/VdzN08n1mfI/AAAAAAAANKw/aacOusHaWg8/s912-Ic42/DSCF7166.JPG)
The tape used was Kamoi tape - not used usually for it's intended use as it is a bit more adhesive than Tamiya. The tape was given a swipe with Mek Pak then primed - a quick test that showed promise. It was at this point I found I could not enlarge on the printer by percentage increments which scuppered thoughts of scaling the drawings up so the spacing was drawn to the scaled dimensions.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZmGtEB1PkhA/VdzN4bvqnpI/AAAAAAAANK8/VJBnvZmAs8A/s912-Ic42/DSCF7169.JPG)
With the wings devoid of all protrusions the leading edges were added using several coats of primer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XjOpCGnRvHY/VdzN5As5AiI/AAAAAAAANLI/wIfhtLfhE1U/s912-Ic42/DSCF7173.JPG)
Once the test piece was complete the wing was tackled. This went well until it was realised the rib tape coincided with the strut locations ::) With some of the previously applied tapes now glued on, rather than change the positions which might lead to misalignment it was felt that a slight deviation in tape spacing could be lived with - 'this was after all a test project anyway' Hmm not so sure about that now!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W2dXnVDncLw/VdzN8OgxosI/AAAAAAAANLc/Yco0C39MCQM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7184.JPG)
After several thin coats of grey primer to seal the tapes each sanded down with 800 wet and dry paper the top surface was given a good coat of white 'high build' primer to help flare in the riblets and leading edge.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TMpadYvNylA/VeHiz2JFK7I/AAAAAAAANMI/W8NANDFz23E/s912-Ic42/DSCF7185.JPG)
Apart from that spacing issue I was reasonably satisfied with the outcome and felt the extra work was worth it - now the fuselage could be tackled.
That's enough for a first post I'm sure you'd agree but I do have two questions which I hope someone will be able to help with.
The first is - Were roundels applied 'over' a PC10 coating or were they applied direct to the linen. I ask because given the probable opacity of PC10 I can't imagine a roundel would likely be seen through the underside covering if applied over the top of the coating.
The second is - I prefer using Tamiya paint to all other for spraying and do not particularly wish to change products. Can any one say what is considered the nearest colour in their range that approximates PC10.
I have sprayed the wheels today using 'Kahki Drab' - it 'looks right' if a little on the brown side. I'm not looking for the exact shade just a near approximation as a base to start from.
Many thanks in advance - hope that's not too long for a first post.
Regards - Tug
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Good beginning.
Cheers
Martin
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Outstanding work on the wings! The rib tapes and stringers/false ribs look terrific! As for the PC 10, I used Tamiyas' Khaki Drab( Like You) and a mix of Khaki Drab and XF49 Khaki for some tonal variations. I liked the results.
RAGIII
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You have done a superb job with the wing ribs Tug, they look very authentic.
Des.
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Thanks Guys - Khaki Drab it is then, I can get a good nights sleep now ;D. More work on it tomorrow and oh yes, I should get a nice new delivery too ;)
Regards - Tug
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Roundels weren't visible through the PC10. Here are a couple of pics of a Camel and BE2 in the IWM, Lambeth. Both are in the same lighting conditions....
(http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z424/Ian_Brand/006-20.jpg)
(http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z424/Ian_Brand/003-50.jpg)
Notice that the under wing rib tapes appear lighter with no shadows, when the upper surface is doped PC10, and darker with shadows, with the natural linen finish.
Ian
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Tug,
Excellent first progress my friend. I can truly appreciate the work you've done on her wings.I'm looking forward to following this outstanding thread. Since there aren't a lot of these wonderful kit being I'll take the liberty of sharing a link to my Camel from 5 years ago following first stroke.Mine's still not finish yet but hoping to some day.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
LINK: http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=91.0
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Hello :)
Thanks for the kind comments and input - most welcome.
I've tried the Khaki Drab on the fuselage this evening RAG but have to say it looks a tad too 'brown' to me for PC10. It's only a light coat so will try a mix with a small amount of Olive Drab tomorrow.
Ian B - my thanks for these two pics which answers my question completely as well as providing good reference for the future.
I've managed a bit more today but had a slight distraction ;)
A few more pics then .....
The tailplane was treated the same as the wings. All through holes on wings, fuse and tail were filled with plastic rod and levelled off before marking the centres with a .013" - 0.3mm drill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6uu40CaMet8/VdzN51i_44I/AAAAAAAANLM/5mNpGdAH4iQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7177.JPG)
Attention then turned to the fuselage. After looking at it for quite some time and trying to work out an 'order of play' I decided to try to build the internal framework up after the fuse sides were glued together, filled and finished off. I've never done this before but felt that the work required on the outside could potentially lead to damage not counting of course the requisite internal masking at some future stage. I'm still not certain how that will pan out but after taping the parts together and trying a few dummy runs it seems viable albeit a mite fiddly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2HVwiD_GZGI/VdzN05H4FOI/AAAAAAAANKs/akg0FNWE3CY/s912-Ic42/DSCF7156.JPG)
Having spent far too much time in the past making things that get completely hidden after it's all together I find I don't quite have the drive (or the mental energy) to do the same these days. If it can be seen - or an impression can be given that's about as far as I like to go. No attempt to wood grain the interior was made but I did try painting the wood areas with Tamiya Clear Orange to see what the effect would be. It looks (marginally) better colour-wise than the image does but in hindsight I could have spent a little more time here but felt that as so little of it will be seen it would suffice for this build. The underneath of the dash area got missed but once realised has been repainted. The bars BTW are for locating the fuel tank
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VSvCEV_5gZU/VeTP6Cj0pGI/AAAAAAAANNk/m8xdQsqsbjA/s912-Ic42/DSCF7203.JPG)
Feeling that the fuel tank will just about be seen behind the seat an impression of one was made by squeezing a piece of aluminium tube in a vice until the approx section was reached. This was then covered with .010 plastic card. The small bar on each side is for location when fitting out the internals.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qM1CMUvU-WI/VeTMsblKhuI/AAAAAAAANNI/MDD8o4CPrNY/s912-Ic42/DSCF7228.JPG)
Once glued together the strut positions were masked off and the defined areas then scraped and sanded to give an impression of fabric laid over a frame. The top stringers were masked one section at a time and also treated this way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S_-Sdq8LYMQ/VeHiz2HA1DI/AAAAAAAANME/nRfa6ZjV-1A/s912-Ic42/DSCF7192.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RV9Q6G5dghM/VeHi0LBphhI/AAAAAAAANMM/8XD4ean3CJ8/s912-Ic42/DSCF7196.JPG)
The stitching - a plain raised bead on the kit part was replaced with Eduard etch and the holes for the filler caps drilled and sanded to size
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yn01A5m_OvU/VeTMpV1RxqI/AAAAAAAANMw/oOoJ8w2pA3E/s912-Ic42/DSCF7213.JPG)
A semblance of wrinkling was put in with a riffler file and the step defined by scraping with a scalpel point and a hinge added from sprue
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-42_1hMd4A1U/VeTMpb5p5FI/AAAAAAAANM4/M9Ucc9VW4Mg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7217.JPG)
Although happy with the way the stitching had gone on there was something not quite right about it. Looking through one of the Harleyford books for info on the engine I found some very detailed drawings of the correct stitching. Fortunately an example was on the same sheet of etch so it was replaced
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-52xzrNIxHeM/VedPqrhexqI/AAAAAAAANOU/gbjZWVajcsU/s912-Ic42/DSCF7238.JPG)
At last it was ready for some primer......
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tSZi3kpKP8Y/VedPrAqcFxI/AAAAAAAANOY/6_LQCMOtOmQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7242.JPG)
..... and with a final coat over the wings the major parts were ready for the next phase
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VKOmuJVUSCI/VedPt578bkI/AAAAAAAANOo/dw8BvorXB_c/s912-Ic42/DSCF7248.JPG)
I'll call that it for now, thanks again for your comments - keep them coming, good or bad they are always valuable in the learning process.
Oh yes that 'distraction'? Well after paying the VAT and handling charge yesterday Parcel Force delivered my first Wingnuts purchased from NZ. I took advantage of their specials and bought the SE5A which made for the usual pleasant interlude as the sprues were examined. The kit in total cost me £63.65. I live quite near Hannants who sell them at a standard rate of £69, £79 and £99 - pound per dollar. My club gets a small discount which means I was out of pocket by 65p - I guess that'll do me ;)
Regards - Tug
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Your progress on the Camel is forging ahead beautiful, the fuselage interior turned out extremely well and the treatment on the sides of the fuselage is very well done, this is going to be an excellent looking Camel once completed.
Des.
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Your progress on the Camel is forging ahead beautiful, the fuselage interior turned out extremely well and the treatment on the sides of the fuselage is very well done, this is going to be an excellent looking Camel once completed.
Des.
I agree 100% with Des! I think you are on the way to one of the better Hobbycraft Camel builds I have seen!
RAGIII
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Tug,
You're well on your way to one excellent camel my friend. Outstanding update.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Nice work Tug! You have a real winner coming here, the details you are adding are spectacular!
Cheers,
Lance
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I really like what you did with the fuselage exterior.
Jamie
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Excellent progress, Tug. This is coming along beautifully.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Tug-Tastic! ;D
Lovely attention to detail. This will be a Camel of special magnificence!
Keep those updates coming.
Von B ;)
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It is a great progress, indeed. I admire your resolution to improve the kit! And to such fantastic results. I will be watching this thread with much interest.
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Brilliant work Tug :D
I've just started the Academy version with all the old bad bits !!
I'll be following your build with interest.
Del
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Very great work, Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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Your progress on the Camel is forging ahead beautiful, the fuselage interior turned out extremely well and the treatment on the sides of the fuselage is very well done, this is going to be an excellent looking Camel once completed.
Des.
I agree 100% with Des! I think you are on the way to one of the better Hobbycraft Camel builds I have seen!
RAGIII
Let me just jump on the bandwagon with my amigos! Brilliant!
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello again :)
Des et Al -
Thanks indeed to you all for your kind comments - most encouraging for this newbie to this area of modelling but I hasten to stress this is a steep learning curve so don't be too surprised if a set back occurs!
Not so productive today but still made a slight advancement. A trip into town however made for a visit to Hannants - well I was driving right past you know ;) - so I stopped off to buy my first Taurus goodies - and I thought I could use those Yahu parts for the dash.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P7QylUIn_-0/Ven4-S74eWI/AAAAAAAANQw/i9Zg-BCYYmU/s912-Ic42/DSCF7283.JPG)
'Taurus goodies' - WOW - I thought Aires was the bees knees when it came to moulding but this is some of the finest most perfectly formed resin in such minute detail I've seen. I couldn't believe it when I realised the nuts on the prop driver backplate were castellated - disappointed of course that the split pins weren't there :o OK it's a joke - I'm not serious!! Absolutely fantastic. I have the drivers cut from their blocks and sprayed ready for a wash waiting for that first attempt at wood effect on the prop.
Just to bring you up to current progress ....
The small patches on the cable outlets were added using very thin self adhesive vinyl and the whole primed
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0-wS8AltGoQ/Vei4pbqCdxI/AAAAAAAANPU/b7cuWXnu4zk/s912-Ic42/DSCF7251.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2NCDaoJPkX0/Vei4pcPhYHI/AAAAAAAANPc/Gqd1UAJF5_A/s912-Ic42/DSCF7255.JPG)
With the metal parts masked off - a coat of Tamiya deck Tan to simulate the CDL and a base coat for the ply area
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YNP4NNztGDk/Vei4s3J8C0I/AAAAAAAANPk/rb2pnAw12X4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7266.JPG)
Incidentally guys - I'm in the dark here somewhat - just going by what I've read and seen at this stage so if you think there's something I'm missing or there's a better way please jump right in and say so - although I'm quite happy to emulate what I've discovered so far any guidance would be most appreciated
I masked off the longerons, struts and top stringers and gave a light coat of Tamiya Khaki Drab then with the mask removed gave it another coating - at this stage I felt it was a bit to 'brown' and too thin so today mixed up some Khaki Drab and Olive Drab about 5:2 ratio which has just taken the edge off the brown and darkened those thin areas
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z9h0s-_khEM/Vei4t2GSJHI/AAAAAAAANP0/tnyySwSIEjs/s912-Ic42/DSCF7280.JPG)
Next up will be to spray the markings and roundels on then I can tackle the wood area on top but that will have to wait a day or so as tomorrow is 'sailing' day. My wife and I enjoy sailing R/C model yachts and do this each Saturday - something we look forwards to throughout the week.
Back soon with the next stages - painting those fuse markings and having a go at wood effect :)
Regards for now - Tug
Oh BTW - 'Scaley' - Del is your yellow on blue avatar Airborne related? If so I was in 3Bn in the early to mid sixties - it was pale blue on maroon then ;)
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Beautiful update.
Cheers
Martin
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You have done a fantastic job with the fuselage so far and your haul from Hannants is excellent, the Taurus products are the best on the market.
Des.
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Tug,
Just gets better with each new update my friend,Well Done. Where did you purchase the vinyl cable patches?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Your fuselage is looking terrific! Your final color looks the part ( As far as anyone can match PC10 ::) ) I like the shade of brownish green.
RAGIII
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Hi Tug!!!
Great to see you taking this bird on the light - I guess you can take it as a proper practise for future WNW release - so far you are doing great job!!!! Fuselage and wings look gorgeous!! ;)
Cheerio
Lukas
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Your progress on the Camel is forging ahead beautiful, the fuselage interior turned out extremely well and the treatment on the sides of the fuselage is very well done, this is going to be an excellent looking Camel once completed.
Des.
I agree 100% with Des! I think you are on the way to one of the better Hobbycraft Camel builds I have seen!
RAGIII
Let me just jump on the bandwagon with my amigos! Brilliant!
Cheers,
Bud
And here is Amigo #3 to add to the Chorus !!!
Ed
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Hulloo again :)
I have to say I'm so pleased and considerably surprised to receive such favourable comments from such a dedicated and talented group of modellers - they are much appreciated I assure you however I only hope I can continue to live up to your kind remarks.
Des - as no doubt you can appreciate Hannants is a 'wallet depreciation zone' in the extreme. Though basically a mail order warehouse those able to visit are allowed to wander through aisles and aisles of kits and after market goodies to their hearts delight not to mention of course the decals. Very fortunate indeed are we locals.
Gregory - the vinyl was given me by a fellow club member. He worked in such a place where 'scraps' were constantly disposed of. I have a few small pieces of black, white, silver and a mirror like chrome which is ideal for oleo legs - not something of course that we have to worry about :D
Didn't get anything done yesterday - as usual it's quite a tiring day but managed to progress the fuse a mite this afternoon .
RAG 111 - I was still not happy with the Khaki/Olive Drab 'mix' so lightened all the high points again then re-masked before spraying with a 5:3 mix. This certainly looks a lot better if still a little on the brown side but I'll stick with it now. I found the previous coats very soft and easily marked so gave this a coat of Kleer before painting the code and bars. I'm fortunate to have a 'quarter share' in a small vinyl cutter which is perfect for producing your own masks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qMZ-g7nkW4Y/Veyw82B7CcI/AAAAAAAANRc/zy8Tsk_b-Fo/s912-Ic42/DSCF7288.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K4MxwrsKGWU/Veyw84KbirI/AAAAAAAANRY/L8M1s6qqgkw/s912-Ic42/DSCF7290.JPG)
The 'Ultramask' masking film is quite thin but will still not conform to sharp corners - note the slight bleed through on the stitching. I'll revisit that after doing the roundels. It occured to me tonight that it was common practice when spraying much larger masks on control line models to spray a clear coat over first to seal the edges. I'm wondering if applying quick lick of some Kleer with a brush might help fill those slight gaps were the vinyl lifts - I'll try that where the roundels go over the stitching.
I tried my first bit of 'wood graining' on the propeller - not as easy as it looks but I'm happy enough with the result. I found masking the laminations difficult not least because of the difficulty holding it so I think some kid of simple fixture is required to act as a third hand in future. Now comes the wait while the oils dry - something I'm not good at ::)
I've also worked on the engine - though decided to keep to the kit Clerget and keep the resin Le Rhone for later. The induction tubes do not quite meet the head manifolds but as they can not be seen except from underneath I decide to leave them. The plugs were made from stretched hexagon sprue, drilled .013" and the body from .012" wire. Next challenge is to attach the ignition wires to the plug ends - any ideas for a strong enough fixing? I'm thinking mainly of the glue, such a small area for CA but it needs something that works as quick.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hTyRaAnESP0/Vei4pRVLrWI/AAAAAAAANPY/16RmzRV0kiQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7259.JPG)
That's it for tonight - I'm off to bed with a new copy of Mod Mil Illustrated - there's an article on a great looking Snipe ;)
All the best - Tug
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Tug,
Now some outstanding progress my friend. You masking work on her markings really looks excellent. Before I forget thank you for the information on the vinyl. I'll have to try and source the same type vinyl locally. To me this makes much better patches rather than decal material . Looking forward to seeing more of this awesome thread.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Well Tug, you haven't come close to disappointing anyone to date 8) Continuing to look great. I wish I could cut my own masks for letters and such! Yours look great!
RAGIII
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Lovely work so far! I especially like the fuselage colour, it looks nicely "worn"
Ian
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Gregory - the vinyl came from a sign makers business. It comes in various thickness's and I'm pretty certain this is near the thinnest. It has a very high 'stick' rate once settled in though it can be lifted and repositioned if attached lightly in the first instance. Once it's burnished in place it's quite permanent. Unfortunately my friend became very ill and had to retire - I may see him this evening at our club night if so I'll ask if if he still has any.
RAG - The vinyl cutter is a Graphtec 'Craft Robo' or 'Robocut'. It's a small plotter type device that cuts masks incredibly accurately and to very small detail too - I've cut letters down to 2.5 mm so far - it will go much smaller but does have a tendency to remove the cut part instead of leaving it in situ. It's cost was just over £200 so by sharing it between four of us it made it a very viable option. Having used it for several aircraft now I can safely say its a great asset and one that I would now certainly consider purchasing for myself. I prefer to model weathered subjects and this of course means markings can be dealt with the same as the model.
Ian - The markings look a bit stark at present - They'll get toned down to blend in once the rest is done.
Any one know why the top image in the last post is larger than the others? The file size is the same on all images taken - sent from camera to My Pictures then sent to Picasa then to the thread. Why would that happen? I prefer to see the larger size but had previously thought that the web set up had resized previous pics automatically. Is there a way to ensure images are posted in the larger format?
Regards - Tug
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Images cannot be posted in the larger format, they are regulated by the forum and posted at 600 x 600, a click on the image will bring it up to the full size.
Des.
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Thanks Des - hadn't twigged they could be enlarged ::).
I guess the larger one in that last post was an aberration of some kind.
Tug
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I just repaired the image that was posted full size, for some reason the URL address was split in two which caused it to be large, it is now back to forum size but can be enlarged simply by clicking the image.
Des.
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"Gregory - the vinyl came from a sign makers business. It comes in various thickness's and I'm pretty certain this is near the thinnest. It has a very high 'stick' rate once settled in though it can be lifted and repositioned if attached lightly in the first instance. Once it's burnished in place it's quite permanent. Unfortunately my friend became very ill and had to retire - I may see him this evening at our club night if so I'll ask if if he still has any.
RAG - The vinyl cutter is a Graphtec 'Craft Robo' or 'Robocut'. It's a small plotter type device that cuts masks incredibly accurately and to very small detail too - I've cut letters down to 2.5 mm so far - it will go much smaller but does have a tendency to remove the cut part instead of leaving it in situ. It's cost was just over £200 so by sharing it between four of us it made it a very viable option. Having used it for several aircraft now I can safely say its a great asset and one that I would now certainly consider purchasing for myself. I prefer to model weathered subjects and this of course means markings can be dealt with the same as the model."
Tug,
Thanks very for the information. My wife and I owned a sign shop here in Hattiesburg up till late 2013. I say my wife and I owned the shop but actually she did,I just put up the money to buy the shop and took care of the books and payroll . This morning I showed Cheryl your post and she of coarse knew exactly what you were referring to. Friends of ours from church bought the shop from us , so I still have a local access to the vinyl wanted and the cutter/plotter.Must get a sheet run off for myself before leaving to our new home in Texas next week.!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hello :)
That sounds like you will be well taken care of there Gregory ;) - the stuff I have is very high gloss but it cuts back well with wet and dry paper used slightly damp to give a better surface for painting.
Had a successful day so thought you might like to see the results of the masking
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-38dGBisXd5w/Ve28tF__knI/AAAAAAAANR8/v-v58M8dYGg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7297.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jzYzJQFgDVQ/Ve28tNYzqdI/AAAAAAAANSA/2fuW4WuLqnQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7302.JPG)
Still to be toned down a little in the weathering stage apart from a couple of tiny but easily overcome witnesses I'm very pleased with the outcome particularly the thin line around the outside of the roundel. Something that looks ok on the model in hand but looks a bit thin in the image is the serial no - it's basic Arial - might have been better in bold type perhaps.
Managed to make a start on wiring those spark plugs in too - a mite tedious for sure
That's it for today - I'm now off out for my model club meeting.
Regards - Tug
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Very great painting, Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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You do beautiful work sir 8)
Terri
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Beautiful results Tug!
RAGIII
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Hullo :)
Martin, Terri, RAG - thanks for looking in and your kind comments.
Not much done today due to interruptions but I have managed to wood grain the fuse with which, for a first attempt, I'm pleased and encouraged for things to come - no pics yet as it's still wet. I'm not used to having to wait before the next stage so I need to exercise (for me) some real patience here. Building this type of model compared what I'm used to from a planning ahead point of view is a completely different ball game.
I have a couple of questions regarding the graining which I hope someone would answer for me.
I have used oil paint over a Tamiya base and once dry (is a week long enough in a warm environment?) intend to apply a couple of layers of Tamiya Clear Orange to seal it. My main concern however is ...
Is there any likelihood of the oil paint layer lifting when any masking is removed? To date I've never had this problem with Tamiya paints directly but the thought occurred that the oil may not bond to it well enough - Any comments on this possibility before I get to the next stage would be most welcome.
Regards - Tug
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the oil paint should bond very well to a matte Tamiya undercoat. Pretty much the recipe for every oil painting I ever made-- matte acrylic gesso base, acrylic wash underpainting, oils over top.
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That looks great, Tug! Nice work!
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Thanks for the answer Bo , I'm familiar with oil painting as you describe too but that was quite a few years back besides I never did have course to mask any of my paintings let alone remove it ;) so I'm still a bit in the dark - has anyone tried masking over oil painted surfaces and if so does it lift ? I have used the paint neat but reading Des's and David Johnson's guide see from a drying point of view it would have best been thinned. I can see some testing is required to see what's best - I was just trying to save a bit of time :)
Thanks for your kind comment Zac.
Not much progress today even less this afternoon - off for a funeral.
Regards - Tug
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so I'm still a bit in the dark - has anyone tried masking over oil painted surfaces and if so does it lift ?
sorry for being obtuse -- yes I have done this many times. It won't lift*.
*caveat -- assuming acrylic layer is matte, oils of good quality & properly applied, due care used with masking etc etc etc. If anything lifts it will be the acrylic layer on plastic.
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Thanks again Bo - that's reassuring. As said I've never had Tamiya lift - I always use Alclad grey primer first - so it sounds like every thing will be ok. I still have some stock of 'Betto' masking tape, sadly no longer available but it is very good with just the right amount of adhesion but even so I will be careful
Thanks again - Tug
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Lovely work, Tug, and I can't wait to see the wood grain effect.
Best wishes
Nigel
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I always use Alclad grey primer first -
Then you should have no problem, that stuff bites nicely. It's become my go-to primer too. (I used to favor Tamiya Rattle can surface primer but it's kind of wasteful..)
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Hello again :)
Bo - I've used Alclad for some time now and prefer it to all others. I've never had it lift and it gives a good smooth coat especially if 'wiped over' with some Micro Mesh 6000 used wet
Things have been gradually progressing in other directions while the oil paint dries.....
I had to have two goes at this and am still not 100% happy with the result but for a first attempt I'll stick with it. I used Tamiya Deck Tan, darkened for the shading with Khaki Drab and lightened slightly with white for the tapes
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XvIbxwqFF5Q/VfMu5756qpI/AAAAAAAANSg/1uAbtgrQ89o/s912-Ic42/DSCF7305.JPG)
The finished result here does not look so defined nor stark in reality - those spar lines are actually quite indistinct
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ws1S-9CQIzM/VfMu56BILqI/AAAAAAAANSc/Jw6gEddduXQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7307.JPG)
The roundels were masked and sprayed this afternoon. Tamiya Royal Blue, which though from the gloss range, thinned and sprayed lightly didn't gloss too much though the reflection makes the tapes look far too faded ::)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NVOHfDdOVp0/VfXLP_xQC6I/AAAAAAAANTA/udZGinhJvWM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7310.JPG)
The fuselage has exercised my patience waiting for the oil to harden but I finally allowed myself a check today. Again for a first attempt I'm pleased with the result. As well as the parts I have been practising on small test pieces too and have thoroughly enjoyed the process. This was done with neat Burnt Sienna. It was only once experimenting that I found it's better to thin it slightly
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bw1jn-3m8d0/VfXLP1yaZhI/AAAAAAAANTE/hC-c0UDkHbk/s912-Ic42/DSCF7321.JPG)
This will get masked and Tamiya clear orange applied this week then I can begin to work on the inside
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OmadRXdmN0A/VfXLS9yyOdI/AAAAAAAANTU/N8vqOQ6nus4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7325.JPG)
The struts were done with a mixture of Tamiya yellow and white followed by a mixture of Indian Yellow and Burnt Sienna oil varying the mixture slightly to give differing tones
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ycn8aHeNTQ0/VfXLTKfuypI/AAAAAAAANTY/m7Rp94GBHaY/s912-Ic42/DSCF7340.JPG)
Also tackled the prop and finished it off tonight with Tamiya Neutral Grey 'highlighted' with Light Sea Grey/White though once again the image does not convey the somewhat subtle shaded effect.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TFVVx6H2YVE/VfXLQE7VeBI/AAAAAAAANTI/O2Jgv_GIhNw/s912-Ic42/DSCF7316.JPG)
Well that's the current state of play - with luck I should be able to get a couple of days on it this coming week so back soon with another update
Thanks for looking in
Regards - Tug
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It's looking great, Tug! I especially like the wood textures. The color looks just right too, I'm not sure you need the clear orange by what I can see in the photos. But of course I haven't seen it in person, so only you can be the judge.
George
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Outstanding work on the wing shading and struts! Really looking sharp!
RAGIII
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You have nailed the wood tones beautifully, and the wing shading is excellent.
Des.
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Outstanding paint work all 'round, Tug, especially the shading and wood tones.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello gentlemen and ladies,
Ouch !!! Your upgrade and your paint are outstanding !! Bravo !!!!!
Best regards.
Alain.
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Tug, your Camel is coming along nicely. I whole heartedly agree with your philosophy: if you can't see it, why bother. Put your efforts and energy where it counts! This is going to be a winner for sure!
Pietro
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Your wood work is about as good as it gets, Tug. Simply gorgeous, you've aced it! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi :)
George, RAG, Des, Bud, Alain, Pietro and Lance - thanks for these kind and encouraging remarks which are much appreciated. As you might imagine I'm well pleased this first attempt at wood effect has passed muster.
George - I'm inclined to agree with you - I think the effect will be a bit too 'orange' so have decided to just coat it with clear - something I hope to do tomorrow as it appears this evening to be well dry and hardened through. Once that's done I can begin on the internals.
Pietro - I don't want to appear dismissive of those that do super detail the inside - far from it for in a small way I really have trod that path as well. It's just that as I've hit seventy time seems ever more precious so to spend it on making something that will be lost completely seems rather wasteful - so many potential projects but ever diminishing time ::)
Shopping today with Sue saw the inevitable detour to Hannants to pick up some paint (Tamiya) and some more Alclad primer. I spotted the 'new' (to me) Alclad 'slight sheen' Clear Coat so bought some to try. A member at the club last Monday said he'd found the Flat Coat to be very good. Also bought some Albion Alloys 0.1mm and 0.2 nickel silver rod for use as internal wires etc. Restocked on Khaki and Olive drab along with Deck Tan - didn't get any White as I knew I had a new jar in the drawer. Got that out this afternoon and having deposited two brushfuls into the airbrush cup promptly deposited the rest of the jar all over my lap - 'Oh Happy Days' - oh yes indeedy ::) Least it weren't over the model ;D
Spent some time masking up the wings to paint the topsides and the wrap over then pre-shaded with Khaki Drab
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gmc12SIGxO8/Vfcl_P_WKVI/AAAAAAAANUA/RauylcJYZxU/s912-Ic42/DSCF7344.JPG)
Don't want to appear to teach granny etc but does anyone else use kitchen foil for masking? Brilliant for 'filling in' between tapes and of course very malleable for moulding around awkward shapes when required
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SNcljIF-FIc/Vfcl-7GGmDI/AAAAAAAANT8/i3oMN1AonUg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7346.JPG)
After the pre-shading a light coat of KD to lightly fill in followed by a quick swipe with Micro Mesh 6000 to smooth things out and highlight the high points a tad
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BsNkmiSn6AY/Vfcl-_R2-TI/AAAAAAAANT4/nVXksTthTYs/s912-Ic42/DSCF7353.JPG)
This was followed by a layer of the same mix of KD and OD used for the fuse
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S5wv_iuV-S8/VfcmBvHIyyI/AAAAAAAANUM/avUTae4ve5c/s912-Ic42/DSCF7358.JPG)
Then a final highlight of the tapes and riblets with the mix lightened with some Yellow Green before a coat of Kleer (Future) to seal every thing in. The lighting accentuates the effect somewhat - it's a lot less in reality
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9tEmr1Y7zBk/VfcmBwJsnZI/AAAAAAAANUQ/IIpccyqtzys/s912-Ic42/DSCF7365.JPG)
That's about it for tonight - hope to get those top roundels on tomorrow and start back on the fuselage.
back soon
Regards - Tug
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You have done a superb job with the wings Tug, the final effect is brilliant.
Des.
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Tug,
Coming along beautifully, and I really like the foil masking idea, as you say it would mold around relief detail perfectly.
It's just that as I've hit seventy time seems ever more precious so to spend it on making something that will be lost completely seems rather wasteful - so many potential projects but ever diminishing time ::)
I'm right there with you, Sir, having "hit" 71 and picked up the inevitable health "Thing" as well, however it's all about having fun with what we have, and so far, so good!
Cheers,
Lance
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Beautiful work on the uppers Tug! The foil masking is a very clever Idea!
RAGIII
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Wonderful painting, Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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Hi :(
Yep - thought it was going too well ::)
Didn't get as far today as I would have liked but did manage to mask and spray the top roundels. I have to admit I wasn't ready for the sight that greeted me when the masking came off. I like to cut back every coat of paint with MicroMesh 6000 and a touch of water. No problems ever with doing that but I overlooked the fact of the gap around the aileron and the khaki coloured residue went through and stained the under surface. Despite that being sealed with Kleer it was difficult to remove by wiping so had to gently scrub at it with Micro Mesh which has worn the paint in a couple of areas. The wear on the roundel doesn't actually look as bad as the image makes out but short of a complete re-spray it would be difficult to try to match the masking up to re do it. Fortunately the lower wing is the worse so it's destined to be a well weathered airframe. I do have to keep reminding myself this is practice for the 'real thing' ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X-MP1W-Qq3c/VfiDts-nOCI/AAAAAAAANUs/KAT8Ky58eOc/s912-Ic42/DSCF7373.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mEH96MoJ26k/VfiDt6XCf-I/AAAAAAAANU0/5t1V7r22TV4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7377.JPG)
On that note Des not quite so chipper tonight but hey I've had worse.
Lance - RAG - been using foil for masking for quite a long time, the first on painting control line models. It's so much easier than paper to use. For this modelling I tend to cut several small pieces first, fold one edge back on itself for strength then cut Tamiya tape to 8mm or so wide and attach to that edge. Once done this can be used several times before the tack gives out.
I have a question re markings but will put that on the other thread
Regards for now - Tug
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Despite your little issues you had the roundels look excellent, you have done a superb job.
Des.
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Tug,
If there is an issue with your roundels I don't see it in the Photos. They look better than the decals on my British Aircraft!
RAGIII
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G' Morning :)
Des, RAG - Having just taken a look I think I was being a mite too critical for though the under surface has been 'affected' it's not as bad as I first thought and with some subtle weathering should soon blend in. Onwards and upwards then - I'll get to work on the fuse today :)
Regards - Tug
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Very well painted the roundels, Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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Looks top shelf to me Tug,I'm saving this thread for reference when I do my Camel and Swallow builds.I'll have to summon up the motivation to mask more often instead of relying on decals-there really is no comparison as you've shown.Great tip on the foil,I'll be using it on my current builds.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Dave - thanks for looking in. For me, masking is well worth the effort wherever you do it. I used to find it a real chore at one time then one day the reality dawned - the masking 'is' the painting. I changed my thinking around 180 and now look at it as time spent masking as a worthwhile part of making the model, the actual painting itself, once masked, being the minor part of the operation. I do use decals but will always paint in preference particularly on markings/lettering
Not much to comment on and I'm about to take a few days off. Despite enjoying this build immensely when I get back modelling I really must finish the Starfighter first. It 's so close to the end it needs to be finalised so it will be a few days before I have anything further on this one.
In the meantime, after giving the 'woodwork' a coat of clear, the control lines are in and despite a bit of a tight fit I have managed to get the tank in without any damage.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e1xQ4npng5s/Vfx73zr_ueI/AAAAAAAANVw/gEXSae1VXKM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7416.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vuCZ7-yBN0c/Vfx72Ex9mfI/AAAAAAAANVs/YdZZigxI4ig/s912-Ic42/DSCF7408.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zCsecY-ZlPw/Vfx71wIeKtI/AAAAAAAANVk/kots_3sqH2g/s912-Ic42/DSCF7413.JPG)
That's it for a week or two then but back soon with the next phase.
Thanks for looking in
Regards - Tug
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She is shaping up beautifully, Tug ;)
Keep up the great work.
VB
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Tug,
Really looking beautiful! Every time I look at your wood treatment I am more impressed with how it turned out! Looking forward to your next update!
RAGIII
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You truly are turning one pigs ear into a silk purse. I am inspired!
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looking very nice indeed!!
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Hello gentlemen and ladies,
Godd work but, if I can, yellow background is not a good idea for yours pictures. Not enough contrat, I think. ;)
Best regards.
Alain.
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Hi :)
Thanks as usual for your comments - I'm really enjoying this build so far though have this nagging awareness that it could always go pear shaped.
Alain - I note your comment and agree with you entirely. It's some nice cloth I've had for some time intending to use it for this purpose. After those first pics were posted however I felt it wasn't quite the thing but decided to stick with it for continuity. I shall try to find something more suitable for the next updates - perhaps pale blue or a light grey.
Well I've just cleaned the bench down and put things away for a few days - hols tomorrow but will be back soon. In the meantime enjoy your modelling time
Regards - Tug
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She comes very wonderful up.
Cheers
Martin
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Brilliant work, Tug! I am enjoying following along with
your informative and awe-inspiring build. It's fun watching
you turn the "cheap" model a show stopper. Well done, my friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie and Martin :)
Ernie - glad you are enjoying my efforts but having just looked at the stunning 1/28 Camel pics posted by Bud I can see have a long way to travel as yet. What a gorgeous piece of workmanship.
I'm well on the way to finishing the F-104 so will be back on this quite soon. In the meantime found a nice art shop on holiday and bought some Griffin 'Alkyd' oils for wood effects. Having rummaged up the loft to see if there was any oil paint worth using I found a tube of this which reminded me of using this in conjunction with normal oil paint when painting some years back to speed up drying times of Titanium White oil. I also bought some fast drying Poppy Oil which I've not used before but found that it makes it beautifully smooth to apply. I haven't seen any reference to this type of oil paint so thought it might be of interest to someone.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XMVv9s0TzyU/VguUjUaL_TI/AAAAAAAANWQ/4gf0r9lVB50/s912-Ic42/DSCF7454.JPG)
It proved money well spent as this hastily carried out test piece dried overnight
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LEWEBOETmbs/VguUjXhx5FI/AAAAAAAANWY/Izogc9xqkQM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7459.JPG)
Also paid my first visit to one of the 'Hobby Craft' stores where I found this lovely set of synthetic brushes for £4.50
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rRt01qfj37U/VguUjeQL62I/AAAAAAAANWU/Pb2zzapdNko/s912-Ic42/DSCF7458.JPG)
That's one holiday that proved beneficial ;)
That's all I have to report at the moment but I'll be back as soon as poss on the Camel
Tug
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Beautiful work to date Tug, this is going to be one very impressive Camel when completed.. this just goes to show that we don't have to spend a lot of money on a kit to end up with a really first class model.
Des.
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Thanks Des - I do get such a lot of pleasure on 'improving' things though confess I much prefer the 'modern' kit with all it's fine engraving/ great fits etc.
I'm off to Hannants this morning - I noticed yesterday that they had the new Eduard/Brassin Vickers M/G in this week ;)
Tug
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Tug,
Your Camel just gets more impressive with each new update my friend. Keep up the excellence.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hello Gregory - many thanks for your encouragement :) I enjoyed your build thread on your Camel too - did you ever finish it as it was turning out so well as well.
I'm pushing on with the 104 but am itching to get back onto this build. Not much done this week on anything however due to a very ill relative and the usual strain that imposes. Hope to get some time in this afternoon but tomorrow see's our annual Model Engineers day at a local museum. I'm packed ready to go but Monday will be clean up so it will be next week before full 'normal service' resumes ;)
Bought the Brassin Vickers guns - extremely good value for the cost £4.50 and couldn't resist a Special Hobby Nieuport 16 which having opened the box is even better value - beautiful resin engine plus etch etc - ah! my WW1 stash grows another inch or so ;)
Regards - Tug
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Tug,
I have glad you enjoyed my old Camel project thread my friend. Sorry to report thought she's not finished. Health issues forced me to box her up before my second stroke. I still hope to get back to modeling at some point and will likely return to the Camel first as she's approximately 75% complete.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hello Tug!!!!
Great progress on fuselage and thanks for info about oil paints... moved to south hemisphere recently and will be buying new oil paints for wood so will probably try these ;) I also bought Nieuport 16 which was on sale back home for 500CZK (about £13) :D And well done on growing stash, my gf calls it "wingnutwing syndrome" and don't worry this forum doesn't have a cure for it ;) :D
Cheerio
Lukas
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Well hello at last :)
Actually I did do this on Friday night but decided at the last moment to add another pic, went to the top to minimise and clicked close instead and promptly lost the lot. Golly gosh I quietly murmured to myself and went quietly off to bed - well something like that ;D
Gregory, I am sorry to hear of your health issues and wish you well towards a speedy recovery to see you back at your modelling. Modelling of varying kinds has always played a major part in my life so to have it curtailed is something I would find hard - I can certainly empathise with your situation
Lukas - hope you are now well established after your move. I've long given up all hope for 'stash-itus'. My long suffering but ever tolerant wife has now deemed I am now suffering from 'Wingnuttafillia'. I have recently sold an old model aircraft engine which made far more than I anticipated so it was quickly converted into two kits. Inspired by Squiffy and Rahmi's postings I have the FE2b special (late) winging it's way and the remaining cash bought a DVa before that too joins the 'sold out' list.
Well the F-104 is completely finished and put to bed ready for next years outings so it's back on the Camel. I don't see any distractions looming so I should be able to keep on with this right through now.
I began this phase by getting the two side frames ready to fit. Once they are fixed in place the dash board shape can be established and made and once that's fitted the lower parts that make up the rest of the internals can be tackled.
The starboard side frame had the pressure pump made from Evergreen rod, silver plated wire and a ball handle shaped from evergreen coated with PVA. The piping is .011" copper wire the crossover made from Evergreen too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6LvVBFuNnNw/ViPwpzzagGI/AAAAAAAANb0/COT9bRF47PI/s912-Ic42/DSCF7566.JPG)
The port side fittings took much longer, the fuel sight glass proving particularly tedious. A throttle was cobbled together from some redundant armour etch parts and a semblance of a fuel filter made from rod and copper wire piping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rqeCeHeAAg8/ViPwtmctATI/AAAAAAAANbY/Pc1AyHzq228/s912-Ic42/DSCF7574.JPG)
No attempt was made to replicate any grain in the frames, just painted with a mix of Tamiya overcoated with Clear Orange which I hope will give a reasonable and contrasting illusion
The sight glass was made from stretched clear sprue, several unsuccessful attempts to drill the ends were made before a different approach was tackled using plastic rod etc at each end to take the piping (I've just noticed it is upside down in this pic). The fuel cock was another conglomeration of plastic rod and stretched sprue.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S_ncBBTo3Q8/ViPwuK1xF0I/AAAAAAAANbc/51GhLrUc77o/s912-Ic42/DSCF7578.JPG)
With those installed on the frames the parts are ready to be fitted to the fuselage tomorrow.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NWOiqhyerCA/ViPwvqw95VI/AAAAAAAANb8/JfNmN7A5eZQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7584.JPG)
Not much to show then for some fairly concentrated hours but the project is back on song at last and will hopefully progress fairly quickly now.
Regards for now - Tug
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You are doing a brilliant job with all the added extras Tug, these are the things that make a model stand out in the crowd.
Des.
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Tug,
This is continuing to be an absolutely inspiring build! Your detail work is awesome!
RAGIII
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V Nice detail work Tug!
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Very great detailing, Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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I challenge WNW to come up with a more fully detailed cockpit in their Camel than you are producing here. Excellent work, Tug!
Cheers,
Bud
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Yes...I agree, Tug...you've raised the bar even for WnW. For myself as a Camel nut, your work is a gift. -M
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Des, RAG, Bo, Martin,
Thanks for the continuing encouragement - I'm under no illusion though as I don't see myself as a 'Bo' or a 'Lukas' for their work is so truly exquisite but I've always enjoyed making 'improvements'. For the most part there's no claim to scale fidelity as with no drawings it's very much an eyeball thing from photos. I always seem to find though that no matter how small something's made it always has the air of being overscale once fitted but having fitted the frames today things don't look too bad.
Bud - Doug, well I'm flattered of course but I can't wait for their version to come out. When I look at the kits (WnW) I have and see just what fine limits they have moulded parts to I'm sure it will have all this detail - besides I don't think I could face it all again :D
A few more pics from today's happy hours...
After having to tweek the piping a bit the frames went in easy enough - port side....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c5RWGIbRe5M/ViU_PsfkGxI/AAAAAAAANcY/38JTb5qImac/s912-Ic42/DSCF7588.JPG)
Starboard side
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJWi4V_yMF4/ViU_PjaDDCI/AAAAAAAANcg/6u6rJmORlF4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7596.JPG)
The air intake system was made from plastic tube. It looks a bit dark for aluminium so that'll get a tweak tomorrow.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-za6CkloFjgE/ViU_PgHeoII/AAAAAAAANcc/cmkrVimLqnQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7593.JPG)
It's only representative - there's no intention to couple up with the engine but it's position will be quite prominent through the cockpit though.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0aIjufpL_Kc/ViU_Ra0kwKI/AAAAAAAANcs/1dSnPce_kws/s912-Ic42/DSCF7598.JPG)
You know 'I worked really hard' to eliminate that seam on the wood area but somehow that oil paint has highlighted it ::)
Next up is to establish the dashboard shape and build that up
Thanks again for all those kind comments
Back soon - Tug
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Tug,
I'll join the chorus of singing the praises of your detail work; simply superb! I have two of these Kits that I stashed some time ago as "insurance" should Wingnut not release one, then they announced a future release. Notwithstanding they'll get used, at least one for a "Comic" version and your Post here will be a great reference.
Great work thus far and a pleasure to follow along.
Cheers,
Lance
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This is shaping up beautifully Tug, the HobbyCraft and Academy Camel kits require a substantial amount of work but end up being nice looking models, yours is heading along those same lines and is looking extremely good.
Des.
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Beautiful effects on the fuselage - the wood panels especially look so damn convincing!
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Hello again guys, thanks for looking in Lance, Des and Prze and for your kind words of support.
Whilst I haven't been distracted by another project I have been busy elsewhere as the last few days (Friday thru' Monday) has seen preparation and 'put away' for a two day model exhibition in my home town over the weekend. I exhibited with my plastic model club on both days and also some model engine stuff so Saturday saw my 'Plastic' hat on and Sunday my 'ME' hat. Very well attended by the public and extremely well organised by the host club it made for a most enjoyable but extremely tiring weekend.
With it all put safely away until next year it was time to get back on the Camel :)
First off was to establish the shape of the dashboard to allow the guns to come through then, once the shape was arrived at, before detailing it it was put to one side and attention turned to the front end. Looking at what info I have I noticed that some inspection panels (and the one below the fuselage) are held on with slightly protruding fasteners. These were simulated by squeezing the end of a piece of 0.4mm wire and shaping them a tad with a sanding stick cutting them off about 4-5mm long
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-__h-RJuqve0/VjE0_t9IOcI/AAAAAAAANdI/RTUMaNGSYbg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7605.JPG)
Once fitted in drilled holes they made for a reasonable representation, the inside lengths trimmed back once cyano'd in place.
The spent cartridge chutes were simulated by drilling into the end of some evergreen stock then scraping out the corners to give the illusion of square tube.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_tq5VQE3W0M/VjE1AEfySQI/AAAAAAAANdM/tLCngulbXyY/s912-Ic42/DSCF7611.JPG)
The enlargement in the images makes them look a bit uneven but at life size it looks okay.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CLf2MC1TxAo/VjE0_4Lq2XI/AAAAAAAANdQ/l169ESghEqQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7618.JPG)
The guns were fitted to the top cowling and checked for ease of installing. They will have to be fitted to the top cowling first and the unit fitted as one in order to get them through the dash. The Vickers machine guns are Eduard's Brassin range and, compared to the kits version, are exquisitely detailed. I left a couple of bits of etch off (in front of the pads) after finding it extremely fiddly to get it in the right place. The small holes underneath are where the pins go to locate them back in the cowling
With that done I could finally get to paint the front end. This was sprayed all over with Alclad 'airframe aluminium' first then pre shaded before applying the Tamiya 'Ocean Grey'. The guns are painted with Alcad black primer and given a dusting of steel pigment. A 'firewall' was cut from .010" card and some bolt heads simulated with PC punchings. The engine mount was turned from plastic and the whole area preshaded and sprayed with Alclad
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1M5IjuIFnNc/VjE1EOyu0EI/AAAAAAAANdk/Xo3CtShnMmg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7626.JPG)
(The light levels in my shop are not that good so flash was tried for that last image but it makes everything look so stark. I do have a light tent but that takes up to much space to have access to it all the time - back to the fluorescents then ::))
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GN1HzcJIrM8/VjE1EAhZNoI/AAAAAAAANdo/rm1MhJa95yc/s912-Ic42/DSCF7634.JPG)
Well that's the latest state of play as of tonight - it grows slowly :) Next up is to get the dash made and installed then the lower area of the cockpit can be tackled
Back soon - thanks for looking - Tug
-
Awesome work! I love what you are doing with this one!
RAGIII
-
Excellent work Tug, what you have done so far is very good, the added detail is superb.
Des.
-
Fantastic work on the access panel detail. It adds tremendously to sense of realism.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Tug,
Absolutely outstanding work my old friend. She's shaping up to be a real stunner. I've got to tell your wood effect is awesome and life like. Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
...and play of the highest order, Tug ;)
Keep going!
vB
-
Yes, Tug....a stunner indeed...
-
Hello RAG, Des, Bud, Gregory, Von B, Doug et all - thanks as usual for continuing to look in and those kind words of support.
Not a great deal of progress but what there has been has promoted a somewhat novel question - How big (or little) was the average WW1 British pilots rear end (that is as in backside :o)
Sometime back I bought from Hannants one of those exquisitely sculpted and flawlessly moulded Barracuda Studios WW1 seats which has sat ready and waiting for this moment. With the dashboard shape established and painted with oils thoughts turned to fitting the seat 'whilst paint was dryin'. First up was to sculpt a cushion from some Duro Putty and it was then that I began to feel that this seat is rather on the small side for 1/32. The seat internal measurement is just 10mm which obviously makes for 320mm (12.6") full size which I think you'd agree would be a bit of a squeeze if the pilot was in his underpants let alone some warm thick trousers etc. Hmmmm ::)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aN1zk85DK5g/VjkQ9wkqY2I/AAAAAAAANek/jIJOY4A3UEc/s912-Ic42/DSCF7635.JPG)
I dashed off an email to Barracuda in case somehow a 1/48 seat had gotten into a 1/32 package but so far no reply. I checked it against the WnW Snipe seat and though it's the same height at centre back it is woefully short in the width department. So, after a bit of thought - it's such a nice moulding it would have been a shame not to try to use it - I cut out the seat area leaving a small rib around the inner edge and then cut slots in the rib to allow it to be stretched open.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r7oneLCJDh4/VjkQ9_78rhI/AAAAAAAANes/AAvtnqjLX2g/s912-Ic42/DSCF7641.JPG)
A piece of plastic card was shaped and cyano'd in place which resulted in a much more convincing place to 'park a rear end'
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0Ren-_yiYYA/VjkQ91quCDI/AAAAAAAANeo/TS59ou3DWZs/s912-Ic42/DSCF7644.JPG)
Thoughts turned to a new cushion with buttons so the seat was drilled and the buttons formed by heating the end of some 25 thou evergreen
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zYyPSFiBkDE/VjkRBYAojOI/AAAAAAAANe8/L8Pokb16u34/s912-Ic42/DSCF7648.JPG)
Then the positions were pricked through using a needle from the underneath, opened from the top and the buttons pulled through to pull the somewhat flexible Duro putty downwards.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v7U3ROvEiqk/VjkRCI0buzI/AAAAAAAANfA/vuQe5GnMlBk/s912-Ic42/DSCF7649.JPG)
It has been quite sometime since I have used Duro and I had quite forgotten just how 'elastic it can be so this afternoon I found the buttons had 'sunk' well below this position as the putty swelled upwards.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9QKfevyNdSU/VjkRCFoS-cI/AAAAAAAANfE/xiGh1XUXKIg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7657.JPG)
It didn't look right so the cushion was prised off this evening, the 'buttons' drilled out and remade and the holes 'countersunk' a tad to improve the effect a little. I painted it straight after so it was too wet to take pics - hopefully tomorrow.
A town visit yesterday saw the usual detour to a well known local emporium so bought some HGW seat belts (for a Snipe and Triplane which I trust will be similar) and though I have those Yahu Pup dials some HGW instrument dials too so well set for the next stage :)
Well, I guess that's all for tonight - hope you don't mind all this pratlin!
Regards - Tug
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Hi again guys,
Just thought you would like to know I have just heard from Roy Sutherland at Barracuda Studios who agrees with the 'assessment' and is going to have it remodelled and recast. Now I'm sure you'd agree that's dedication isn't it :)
If he's reading this - 'Thanks indeed' Roy
Regards - Tug
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Hi Guys - just a quick update before the trek to Telford for the weekend.
The seat looks much better with a coat of paint on and the dash is nearly finished. After a bit of 'testing' the decision was made to use Aeroscale decals for the dials with a combination of the Yahu and HGW bezels. The compass was made from some Evergreen filed to shape and the switches from punchings of 30 thou PC. Not completely scale but it should look reasonably okay once installed. I'm having a rethink on using the HGW seatbelts but more on that later
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jGn56U5LhJU/VjuVVyrxbdI/AAAAAAAANgg/bWSDOIg77eQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7702.JPG)
I still have to try to [attempt] to fit the pulsometer. I just don't know how he does it! I spent quite some time trying to get the bottom attached to the top and I still have the glass to go! As a machinist in working life and used to working on (relatively) small components Lukasz's ability to produce such finely detailed renditions of the full size is nothing short of truly amazing.
Well that's it - all on hold for a few days and should you be near the Norfolk SMG stand do say hello
Regards - Tug
Addendum -
I thought there might be a area where this was more relevant but can't find one - if it needs moving Des please pop it in the right place
Does anyone else suffer from the 'well I'm blowed, I totally forgot I had that' syndrome? A model colleague called today and as we discussed the armour we used to make books started to come off the shelf and lo and behold these materialised
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6UNc3oNWyw4/VjuVPbPsGvI/AAAAAAAANfw/pgpkx8eBhh8/s912-Ic42/DSCF7675.JPG)
The one on the left was a reprint of 'engine' notes bought a few years ago when interest lay in the BR2. The one on the right was given to me many years back and is, I believe, an original and covers rigging notes of various airframes.
A couple of pages from the engine version.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4B3zV-QQ-Yc/VjuVPZ5aaLI/AAAAAAAANf0/C2uLXuyHlQ4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7678.JPG)
and a few more from the original
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZRBkPdBrA64/VjuVPrM2WoI/AAAAAAAANf4/WkCe7_JUPSM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7681.JPG)
These are all separate pages held in with those dated studs each airframe has it's own page numbers and it looks as if some are missing as none start with 1!
These of course are somewhat topical ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--NmGe0x9pK4/VjuVS2Xl2PI/AAAAAAAANgQ/aKNXux-c-Wg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7682.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sfcZebG9t9g/VjuVTZEbM1I/AAAAAAAANgI/nqoi6JYn4Vg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7684.JPG)
I have checked the search facility to see if these have been referred to before and found nothing but if they have apologies for repeating it. If not however should anyone feel they may contain something useful please ask.
Tug
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Nice fix on the seat and cushion! The panel is excellent.
RAGIII
-
Nice modification to the seat, it certainly does look wide enough now to suit any pilot. Have a look here, it may give you some information on the size of the seats.
http://www.wickerworks.com.au/wicker-pilot-seat.html
As you can see, the dimensions of a wicker seat to suit the Camel are as follows;
Width 47.5cm or 18 3/4"
Depth 38.8cm or 15 1/4"
Height 36cm or 14 1/4
Des.
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Great stuff Tug. I like what you did to represent those inspection panel fasteners.
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Now this is an excellent build! I have been skipping it so far, because I don't really like the subject (a boring Camel), but now when I have looked it, I admit, that it was a mistake and yours definately looks beautiful.
The woodgrain is awesome, the sienna seems to work perfectly for the warm reddish hue:) The wings looks excellent, I'm going for a very similar technique on the Fe.2b and hopefully similar effect. Like Bo said, the idea of the fasteners is great and will be shmalessly using it!
Best regards,
Sasho
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Outstanding work Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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http://www.wickerworks.com.au/wicker-pilot-seat.html
[/quote]
That's some site Des,I'm glad you posted it.They'll be getting a big order when I renovate next year.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Tug,
thought I'd check out your build after our chat at Telford.
Glad I did, lovely work so far and I can't wait to see how it will turn out.
Nick
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Hi guys - nice to hear from you all as usual. Sasho - nice to see you here and you too Nick. That was good meeting you and Nigel at Telford and putting faces to names. That was a really nice DVll you've done Nick but that tripe was looking even better to my eyes.
It's been a bit of a week kicking off with a funeral no sooner back from Telford and time wise the week seemed to go downhill from there. That said however there has been some progress ......
First up was to get some seat belts on before fitting the seat. I had bought some HGW fabric ones but after experimenting with the spare material found it extremely difficult to get it to 'mould' around the seat. I didn't want to use CA in case it wicked through the weave and made the material brittle so decided after a while it might be better to make the belts from 2 thou ali foil (ex food container) using the HGW belts as templates by taping them over it and cutting them out through the ali. In combination with the HGW etched parts the result wasn't too bad.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b8q43RzysvM/VkOxP72Gx8I/AAAAAAAANhs/SKuCy4j71G4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7709.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ByoP4dYJgao/VkOxQMjmywI/AAAAAAAANho/mNfyPr8wUKE/s912-Ic42/DSCF7711.JPG)
I see elsewhere on Lances SSW build that he mentions the fact that the Macro [lens] accentuates even the smallest default to often disappointingly gigantic proportions - couldn't agree more ::)
These holes looked so neatly drilled to my eye before I saw the image :o
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2mb2AudvYn8/VkOxPw00YqI/AAAAAAAANh4/CEpN7ouIgdA/s912-Ic42/DSCF7716.JPG)
The seat support was built from evergreen strip and card and a representation of the fuel selector switch made from plastic rod etc. No attempt was made to 'grain' this as it virtually disappears beneath the seat
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KLCQGTiA00c/VkUge9hMXjI/AAAAAAAANiU/QJFZOguY2CM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7728.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Oaf2om1tabQ/VkUge9FncpI/AAAAAAAANiQ/4Km2kDt1Rew/s912-Ic42/DSCF7737.JPG)
Now came the time to begin to fit the internals. A simple holding fixture was knocked up from particle board and balsa - the black tube rotating on a stub of ali bolted to the up right. In hindsight this should have been made sooner as it made a distinct improvement in 'handle-ability'
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Re6FNDYM1IE/VkUgim96ETI/AAAAAAAANik/yAuyIoBDR-M/s912-Ic42/DSCF7757.JPG)
After quite a bit of very fiddly 'fiddling' the support finally found its home without damaging the cross wires in the frame work
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zxl5P0xrULY/VkUgkC38qtI/AAAAAAAANi0/bwEXgIiBEVY/s912-Ic42/DSCF7760.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vtOVAi06VJY/VkUgjBGesfI/AAAAAAAANio/oFOg0dQaqt4/s912-Ic42/DSCF7764.JPG)
The seat located in the square cut out and went in with ease ... followed by the dashboard which proved even more fiddly than the seat support
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-33oEUP6cFp4/VkUgkqEdx7I/AAAAAAAANi4/gWX8YFvHS9g/s912-Ic42/DSCF7770.JPG)
But after a bit of patience was exercised plus the odd mumble or too :D it finally found its position.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KftTwMSMaEE/VkZ0RpUVhfI/AAAAAAAANkQ/7onn1TulSxs/s912-Ic42/DSCF7778.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W1WdIeaBLQw/VkZyuqRdJ9I/AAAAAAAANjk/diPoqxMgrIQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF7779.JPG)
The guns were fitted to the top cowling along with the oil filler cap. Also began to degrade the paint surface on the cowl and associated metal parts at this stage - quite a bit of further work on this to come once all together
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JnpKjWGrtjs/VkZyuw4qY3I/AAAAAAAANjo/NsHDYRJwBdM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7788.JPG)
I had installed the etched cocking levers at this point but on a trial fit to the fuselage realised they'd been installed upside down ::) They were quickly prised off without too much damage to the paintwork or the parts and will be re-fitted later
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VcxcPxFsw4M/VkZ0RoyvIRI/AAAAAAAANkU/RRjPh3uA-RE/s912-Ic42/DSCF7791.JPG)
Final shot is of what I feel is the first major flaw with this kit. The under cowling is clearly meant to fit as shown but leaves the wing protruding well (as viewed) above. Taking a good look at various images of the full size I think this can be got round by installing this under cowl at a slight angle to meet the wing and adding a cover plate that overlaps the wing part but more on this later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gpGfjCN5clA/VkZyupfUcDI/AAAAAAAANjg/0C99ITXUBgA/s912-Ic42/DSCF7773.JPG)
Well that's it for this stage - hope those pics are of interest. It's fast approaching that time of year when time available for modelling gets affected by 'seasonal interference' but I'll try to keep this on track.
Regards for now - Tug
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An excellent progress report Tug. First off, your stand to hold and rotate your model is a very simple but brilliant idea, well done. All the latest work you have done has come up a real treat, the seat belts are excellent, this is turning into a really nice looking model.
Des.
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Great update Tug, I echo Des's comments about the "maintenance stand", brilliant! The model itself is simply outstanding, great work and the belts really set off the cockpit.
Really REALLY nice work! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Tug,
Outstanding progress my old friend.I'll gladly chime in with Des and Lance on your build fixture,truly an excellent idea. Eagerly looking forward to continued Excellence. Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Your Camel is coming together perfectly, Gregory! The stand you made is very ingenious. I love Rotisserie Camel! ;) ;D
George
-
I agree with George! Camel on a spit...
Beautiful work. Learning a lot just lookin!
Dan
-
Outstanding work Tug.
Cheers
Martin
-
Hi y'all!
Excellent. Love every bits.
Ciao
Iwik
-
Des, Lance, Gregory, George, Dan,Martin and Iwik - thanks for looking in.
Hope you are continuing to improve Gregory.
The little 'rotisserie' as George has called it is something I have been doing for quite sometime. (You'll have to forgive the subject matter ::) )
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BOXi-F5LEXk/UP05H_B24CI/AAAAAAAAG5k/X47hifVSnEM/s912-Ic42/DSCF1423.JPG)
It followed on from using the white faced particle board and balsa blocks to make bespoke and very accurate jigs for building wings for flying model aircraft.
It was not long after taking up plastic modelling that it found a use here too after I found that constantly handling the fuselages of two models during the painting phase lead to paint de-lamination when masking the fuse markings. I have never found Tamiya paints to suffer with that problem elsewhere except on these two particular occasions. Putting it down to the paint gradually absorbing finger grease which subsequently affected further layers of paint I have no longer experienced this since using a holding fixture.
Balsa is so easily worked with nothing more than a scalpel and sandpaper and it sticks virtually instantly to the WF board with thin CA (I use Zap) providing the balsa surface is flat and even.
This one materialised due to holding problems fitting that seat support but another, fixed version, is on the cards for fitting the top wing and struts. I think this one will be extended vertically to allow rotation when the rigging is attempted.
Hope that's of further interest
regards - Tug
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I'll forgive you for the Crusader because it's so well done. :D It looks great!
(Just don't let it happen again!) ;)
George
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Beautiful work!
-
Your build is continuing to be absolutely stunning! The wings and MGs look outstanding!
RAGIII
-
Looking forward to seeing the next progress report on this excellent model.
Des.
-
Suitably chastised George - there was another pic of another fixture with an F-100D in position but I thought that might just be stretching it a bit. Phew - glad I decided not to push my luck too far ;) - ahem! I did say I had a penchant for jets though didn't I ? :D :D
Cajun, RAG, Des - thanks for continuing to look in and your encouraging comments. I'm taking a day or two break then I'll get back to dealing with that lower panel and fixing the wing on.
Regards - Tug
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Hi all :)
Finally managed to find some time to take a better look at that bottom wing/lower cowl problem. Whilst it's not perfectly accurate it is close enough I feel to convey the original make up that I can see on what pics of the area I have.
The wing centre section was scraped and sanded to fit as flush as possible with the fuselage then further scraped and filed to simulate the panel line
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZIi1HcUUK_w/VlJF1zndkeI/AAAAAAAANlo/uCXLewk1HF8/s912-Ic42/DSCF7800.JPG)
Some more fasteners were made as per the side panels and CA'd in place and trimmed flush on the inside
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SIuxVh6hbk0/VlJF13oK3OI/AAAAAAAANlc/zbN3oCW5XmA/s912-Ic42/DSCF7803.JPG)
A ten thou plastic card 'extension' was cut and dry fitted to the fuse outlines first then glued to the kit part and finally pared away to the edge of the recess
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qCW01gFvQjA/VlJF13y-nAI/AAAAAAAANls/rgfNfCOGbGM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7806.JPG)
This brings the panel down toward the wing allowing the extension to overlap the panel which is how it appears to be on the full size. The overlap portion was sanded to about five thou thickness. It's only just laid in place here hence the misalignment
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X_D6xfpwrkw/VlJF4TuKYqI/AAAAAAAANl4/2tD_Cmxpxkw/s912-Ic42/DSCF7807.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zx3ekIVWhA0/VlJF4p00vbI/AAAAAAAANl8/_vr1bQD7MBc/s912-Ic42/DSCF7813.JPG)
With this little problem solved the last of the internals can finally be dealt with and then that bottom wing can be attached at last :)
There's a busy week ahead but I'll try to keep at this as and when I can.
Regards - Tug
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Nice work with the modification to allow you to get the bottom wing fitted soon.
Des,
-
Tug,
Outstanding save on her lower wing attachment problem my old friend. Your skill and craftsmanship very much came in handy. Enjoying each update and looking forward to the next.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Outstanding fix on the wing undersurface and lower cowl.
RAGIII
-
Very nice work, Tug.
Keep going!
vB ;)
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Hi Des, Gregory, RAG and Von B, Thanks as always for your continued following and encouragement :)
Michael - no apologies required at all - it's good to see you here and thank you too for your comments.
The post was more to show the fixture - the Crusader was just in the way :D. I will however pop a pic or two on TTR later and provide a link to others. Despite my new found interest in WW1 subjects I find I still have an 'unhealthy'(?) interest in those at the other end of the spectrum :o - I'm looking forwards to the forthcoming Mig 31 from Avantgarde.
I set out on the Camel well aware that WnW's were going to release one and feeling that in all probability what you say will happen will happen. Whilst I'm looking forwards to their version - which just has to be so much easier to put together - I've really enjoyed trying to overcome the challenges which this one has provided.
It has occurred to me that taking your analogy further I should (attempt) to scratch build a Vickers GunBus in the almost sure certainty that having done so they will release one - oh I so wish :)
Kind regards - Tug
-
Outstanding work Tug.
Cheers
Martin
-
Thanks for continuing to look in Martin and for your encouragement :)
I've had a fairly intense day on it today and made a significant step forward - well significant that is, in that the bottom wing is on at last :D
I have to say I have learnt a lot throughout the day not least just how difficult it is to keep wayward pieces of rigging material (invisible thread) out of the way of each other, not to mention the inherent springiness of such stuff even though it's only 6 thou in diameter.
I'm afraid I was so engrossed in getting the lines through the fuselage and then getting the wing on followed by the front panel - all connected together - I forgot about taking pics early on.
First off was to fit the gun activating cables to the column using 0.2mm white coloured copper wire. Although painted dark grey I used white and left the ends unpainted so to be able to see their position better. The elevator control lines were threaded though the false guide set on the rear wing spar and through the small plate on the column. A minor disaster struck here when a touch of CA was applied to the small plate - it just disintegrated on the rear side - fortunately it remained intact on the fore side so the rear was reinforced with some Gator glue. With the cables threaded through their respective holes the column was added to the wing then the cables pulled through the fuse using a piece of copper wire. The lower cowling piece with the rudder bar hangs down the side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rcd7HJtba24/Vlti66WZ0SI/AAAAAAAANmk/5bWEidSuOUc/s912-Ic42/DSCF7817.JPG)
The really difficult bit, believe it or not, proved to be the actual glueing of the wing on - I began by using Contacta but by the time the wing was in situ with all the cables out of the way that had gone off. The only way was to bend the end of a paint brush and use MEK from the inside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BqZqJl2Ls14/VltjHUO03TI/AAAAAAAANm8/vXFLyPv4ubA/s912-Ic42/DSCF7830.JPG)
Once that was well set the cables were then gently pulled and tweaked into place around the return pulleys with a piece of bent wire and pulled taught at the rear .....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wT3Ejz1hTRU/VltjHC8WrGI/AAAAAAAANnU/dZwAYv37eOg/s912-Ic42/DSCF7836.JPG)
....and finally glued into slits cut into the lower fuse at the tailskid opening with a scalpel. Once set a good splodge of Gator glue was worked over the inside to reinforce the join. The 'croc' clips proved to be just the right weight to give sufficient tension while the glue set
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0NYLdF_tIhk/VltjHCncuTI/AAAAAAAANnQ/gvJ6JoMMRVM/s912-Ic42/DSCF7853.JPG)
I've never had the 'pleasure' of putting a ship in a bottle but I'm sure this must be the closest I'll get. The problem of dealing with all those lines to raise masts etc whilst working from one spot suddenly came into focus :-\
I feel this is a big stage accomplished. It was very fiddly but in truth went far better than I anticipated. Apart from the small plate on the control column breaking no other breakages occurred which considering all the poking around inside was surprising to say the least. Next off is to tidy up the gun cables and fit the guns then tackle the undercarriage.
Back soon - Tug
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Excellent work getting the bottom wing fitted, always a challenge but you pulled it off nicely. I am still in awe of the wood effect you created on the fuselage, it looks brilliant.
Des.
-
Like Des no other words.
Cheers
Martin
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Excellent, Tug! I know this isn't the Wingnuts kit of course, but when I build my Wingnuts Camel I'm going to use your model as a guide!
George
-
Excellent, Tug! I know this isn't the Wingnuts kit of course, but when I build my Wingnuts Camel I'm going to use your model as a guide!
George
+1 ;)
vB
-
Tug,
Brilliant is the term ! I may have already used it but it is well deserved! You are one Modeler that will have NO Use for a WNW Camel 8)
RAGIII
-
Des - thanks for the kind words of appreciation on the woodwork but I think it more beginners luck than anything as it's the first time I've done anything like it. You'll have to put it down to some good tutorials I've followed :)
Martin, George, Von B and RAG - thanks as always for your comments too - glad to see you are still following :)
Not much to report tonight but I have got the guns mounted at last with the cocking levers mounted the right way up this time ::) Also found enough time to get another little phase out of the way in getting the undercarriage mounted and rigged. I think I may have over done the early weathering a tad but hopefully it will all meld in once on it's base
First up was to paint the underside to finish. I tried, not that successfully, to mask the lines using stretched Teflon tubing (ex CA tubing) but it kept sliding back so I will remove the over-spray on the lines later with some thinners and repaint the lines. The underneath had a thin flash of Life Colour Tensochrome 'Oil Stains' dusted over to begin the weathering process underneath
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kKe1EdbXDLY/Vmdf6q_rRnI/AAAAAAAANoE/b0wXGZJznAs/s912-Ic42/DSCF7891.JPG)
A couple of pieces of balsa made for a simple jig to keep the wings level to sight the U/C parallel and this was fixed in place using Gator Glue. The small locating pegs on the ends of the legs had been pre-drilled and copper wire pins inserted to help reinforce the joins. Once in position the legs were (just) restricted from movement using masking tape.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y-yt03e-_MM/Vmdf7L-Yy5I/AAAAAAAANoM/xB4aDWMy3Oo/s912-Ic42/DSCF7914.JPG)
The wires were then positioned and held with CA, reinforced with a tiny application of Gator glue and the bungees simulated with some fine tan coloured thread run through some Vallejo 'grey white' between finger and thumb.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YuXjoxlq-z4/Vmdf7MmWzkI/AAAAAAAANoA/5vCA_8HBMrI/s912-Ic42/DSCF7923.JPG)
Quite some time was spent trying to weather the wheels with pigments. They don't look in keeping at the moment and I have to say I'm not that happy with them but hopefully, as said, once on the base it will all come together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mFwct_qdJLc/Vmdf8jbzSEI/AAAAAAAANoQ/WaqaaRyuXKU/s912-Ic42/DSCF7924.JPG)
And finally it's on it's wheels. The wings are just off level by slightly less than a mm tip to tip which all things considered I was quite pleased with. Final leveling can be tweaked once on the base. The small green blobs inside the cowling vents are Miliput. This was needed to give the U/C some support. These will get painted later and won't be too obvious once the engine and cowl are on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CjVPfI4xj2k/Vmdf9l50HEI/AAAAAAAANoY/19WISJaU6Cs/s912-Ic42/DSCF7928.JPG)
That's it as of tonight - it's been a 'bitty' week with not much time to get a fair crack at it but even the smallest progress is always a step in the right direction ;)
Not long now though before that top wing gets tackled
Regards - Tug
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Tug,
You are continuing to do an absolutely amazing job on this kit! Although you obviously don't need one, you have certainly wetted my appetite for the WNW Camel!
RAGIII
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Great work Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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Great work! That jig really looks like it would be handy. Can't wait to see your next update.
v/r,
Rob
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Been following when I can , very nice work so far 8)
Terri
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Tug,
I see the weathering on the wheels as perfect, you've done a marvelous job! I still can't believe what you've achieved with this, at best, mediocre Kit. Nice work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Tug,
Outstanding painting and weathering skills my old friend.The project to date is absolutely awesome! Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Lance,
I respectfully disagree about the kit being at best mediocre. The Hobbycraft Camel's (original and two upgraded) are basic yes but they do build up well.In the hands of talented and skilled modeler they transform from a sow's ear to a silk purse. Just my 2 cents.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Greg,
No contest! I have both the Clerget and LeRhone versions in my stash however have not built them. Truth is it's the imminent arrival of the Wingnut Wings Camel that's kept them in the Stash! What Tug has done is exactly as you stated; put a lot of effort and talent into a sow's ear to produce a silk purse. No slight of the Kit meant, this is a heck of a nice model in the result.
Tug,
Again, very nice work!
Cheers,
Lance
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havent checked in for a while but this build has really come along nicely.all of your embellishments to upgrade the areas lacking in the kit have made this a real gem. very nice paint work as well, your woodgrain has a very nice tone etc. will be watching this slide into the home stretch.
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Getting better all the time!
George
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This is as good as any other kit being built on the forum, you are doing a superb job with a somewhat iffy kit and turning it into a show stopper.
Des.
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Although you obviously don't need one, you have certainly wetted my appetite for the WNW Camel!
RAGIII
Oh but I do RAG I do :)
'Guys' thanks as always - your continued input and encouragement is so very encouraging and means a lot, truly - much appreciated.
I've just been out to take a look in the fresh light of day and those wheels don't look quite as bad as I thought yesterday. Running through what's next I can see there's a lot of small preparatory work to do before setting up for the top wing to be installed so I'll get that all done before posting again. That said whilst waiting for glue to set I've been cleaning up some of the parts for the next model (for the French GB) but will finish this before starting that in earnest.
Given the current constant seasonal interruptions however this may be a while but I'll get back as soon as I can.
Again my thanks
Regards - Tug
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Great progress, Tug, on your Camel. It is going to be a masterpiece.
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Well
I an lucky Tugs a good friend of mine and l have seen this Camel very close even before he stared building it, and the photos do not do the camel justice .
Paul
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Tug....just curious....if you've mentioned it before on previous pages, it got by me... who and what are your markings for this wonderful creation? Looks like it could be No. 3 Sqn? -M
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Good to see you here PrzemoL and you too Paul :)
Doug - it is indeed from 3 Sqn and is as featured in the Windsock Datafile. I can only find the one image of it plus the profile on the back cover.
I've had a bit of deviation for a couple of days - it's our Norfolk club Xmas bash tonight and a small comp with a bit of a difference - well a big difference actually. One of our members is an extraordinarily talented 'paper modeller' and earlier in the year he suggested we try it for ourselves. Having struggled with the intricacies of folding and gluing I know it's not for me but I have finished a light house. When I see what Adam has produced I can tell you I truly am in awe of his skill with this medium.
But - I have at last managed to get close to getting the top wing on. No it's not on yet ::) I spent today trying to work out how to get all the struts in position without the whole lot collapsing in the process.
In the end I decided another jig was required and after initial deliberation to only fix and align the cabane struts first. Again balsa was used and the jig quickly assembled with CA. Once the airframe was in position however it very quickly became obvious the wing prevented any visual access to the strut locations. The strut hole positions in the wing were transferred to a piece of clear plastic and the whole thing set up by gentle positioning.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gn-y0jRl7j0/VnGQYZcWLoI/AAAAAAAANqU/uu6K_q9sYKw/s912-Ic42/DSCF7938.JPG)
Nothing has been glued on the model as yet - this is just a dry run- but the principle appears to be a viable one. The wing support uprights are fixed in position but the support bars are freely moveable. The clear plastic is stressed in a slight curve which holds the struts quite firmly
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pm28Beb5VLY/VnGQYZjjKxI/AAAAAAAANqQ/NKpRtFg2yqU/s912-Ic42/DSCF7948.JPG)
With the plastic able to move in three axis the struts prove easy to align to the fuse.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rjTdk79hsrY/VnGQXyriwlI/AAAAAAAANqM/tuB6r2v1r_E/s912-Ic42/DSCF7949.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CN9SHGn0XzM/VnGQZtAUMbI/AAAAAAAANqc/CwVWm7E_oa8/s912-Ic42/DSCF7952.JPG)
Once the principle was established the struts could be finished off. A Rotherham pump was cobbled together from various materials
and mounted to the rear right hand strut. In actual fact this should be the front strut on this particular aircraft but I felt that that was going to make things a tad awkward when rigging the cabanes. Not quite in Bo's league I'm sorry to say but it will give a reasonable impression
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wdlR8G2KWKs/VnGQcLLbjVI/AAAAAAAANqo/JVcmjolpv-s/s912-Ic42/DSCF7958.JPG)
And finally all the bits are ready - well not quite, the little propeller needs re doing. I used Vallejo Flesh Tint for the undercoat - a wrong choice as it transpired ::)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BSnsl01mnw8/VnGQcBwKzDI/AAAAAAAANqs/HpilR7U3C_Y/s912-Ic42/DSCF7970.JPG)
Well that's another step forwards. The plan is to get the struts in using Gator glue, mount the wing and then slip the main struts in last. First though I need to attend to the rigging line attachment.
Well it's time for a shower and get ready for a pint tonight - (see you later Paul)
Regards - Tug
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Beautiful work as always, Tug! Your use of clear plastic to align the struts is brilliant.
George
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Tug,
Outstanding update my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Brilliant work with the jigs Tug. I use roughly the same method doing the cabanes but the clear plastic is a very clever touch, well done. This is going to provide for far less urgency to grab a WNW Camel when it's released, you'll already have a spectacular Camel in your collection! ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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Excellent Jig, Tug ;)
Nice scratchy work on the pump... very nice!
Cheers,
BVB
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I missed a lot after absence of 6 months on this site...fantastic build.
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You are moving along brilliantly Tug, your clear plastic wing jig is a very good idea.
Des.
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Hi Guys thanks for your comments - glad you liked the clear plastic idea.
UFAG - thanks for looking in and taking the time to comment . It's nice to see a new face on the thread :)
Well - had a reasonable day today and, pleased to tell, the clear plastic proved a good aid. First off though was to make that little 'acorn' button. I'd considered the merits of turning this but in the end just shaped it by scratching it to shape with a scalpel after cross drilling the hole. The rigging material was to prevent it disappearing!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qz13D5ed1iM/VnM1m3czTbI/AAAAAAAANsI/tfhvxFPmlXU/s912-Ic42/DSCF7986.JPG)
After fitting the screen the cabanes were drilled for the rigging and just dry fitted in place at this stage
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1yx5d2ngKis/VnM1nb4ouuI/AAAAAAAANsM/Funb3YiGy9E/s912-Ic42/DSCF7990.JPG)
The transverse rigging added through the acorn
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qoFo6Kwdnww/VnM1nVFRWeI/AAAAAAAANsQ/L1fYbDBRy8k/s912-Ic42/DSCF7992.JPG)
Then everything was positioned carefully ..
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-chAIMHgUevs/VnM1orng3EI/AAAAAAAANsY/uHJgcOPYkS0/s912-Ic42/DSCF7998.JPG)
.....before easing each strut out in turn, gluing with Gator glue and clicking back in place
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GOSh2le-nLk/VnM1pz4PJ1I/AAAAAAAANso/m_zNzT3PwMQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF8001.JPG)
This was then set aside to let that glue really consolidate and the rest of the time was spent gluing the rigging into the top wing ready for the next phase. I'd like a good clear run at that so due to the weekend's interruptions that's unlikely to be until next week.
Back soon - Tug
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She is coming along wonderfully so far , nice detail work on the struts Tug :)
Terri
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Super work, Tug ;)
vB
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I'm struggling with this at the moment guys :(.
Had to walk away from it day afore yesterday when trying to glue the top wing on. Despite the jig this proved extremely tedious due to not being able to see. Got two cabane struts in and then a third, then, as the fourth went, in all the others popped their joints. Believe me I spent some time trying but it wore me down in the end. I just cleaned all the glue off, re-drilled the holes to clean them out and put it aside for a while. I just so glad I didn't use CA or epoxy as the Gator glued cleaned up reasonably easy
I did check your build log again Des and note you did yours upside down but decided to persevere with the jig for now.
Today I glued two struts in on one side and have left it to really set before trying the second. I'm keeping my fingers crossed they will hold as the second two are done. It also looks as if the main struts are a tad short. I note you tweaked the dihedral on your lower wing Des so I may have to try to do that in situ - not looking forwards to that if so. I'm having rather negative thoughts at the moment - that's an awful lot of work if the top wing wont go on :o
Anyway - Merry Christmas, have a good time - it's a workshop free day tomorrow you know ;) ;)
Regards - Tug
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Happy Christmas Tug! May you open a box of serenity to see through to the end.
I look forward to the end result of this great build.
Kevin
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walking away for a couple of days was the right thing to do! I am sure you will overcome your attachment issues!
RAGIII
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I guess you could be forgiven for thinking that I've quit on this model :o but no I've just taken an extended break doing some 'off topic' modelling for an 'on topic' reason ;).
The top wing now sits nicely on it's cabane struts still in it's jig and it looks promising for the next stage to begin. I hope to resume work on it later this week or early next at the latest.
I have been 'distracted' by rebuilding a small model steam engine which hopefully if my plans work out will provide sufficient funds for one of those larger WNW kits ;)
A rather belated but well meant 'Happy New Year' to you all
Back as soon as I can - Tug
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Looking forward to seeing your work continue on this excellent build Tug, and a Happy New Year to you as well.
Des.
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Tomorrow's a bit of a Red Letter day - not only are things now clear to pick up work on the Camel but a certain large package is due to arrive too ;) ;)
Can't wait for either :D
Back soon - Tug
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Red Letter Day it was too with the arrival of a WNW Duellist Felixstowe and HB12. Having turned seventy one a week ago this Monday past it was a slightly belated birthday 'pressie' and a well received one for sure - what an awesome pair of models. Boy would I like to see the tooling first hand - that must be truly something.
Having had a good peruse of all the sprues it was time to get back to work on the Camel but it would not be long before smiles turned to grimace :o
You may recall this -
.......... I note you tweaked the dihedral on your lower wing Des so I may have to try to do that in situ - not looking forwards to that if so..
The wing proved to be well and truly fast to the cabanes so the model was tentatively removed from the jig and transfered back to the holding fixture for the struts to be attached. It was obvious that the lower wing would have to be bent upwards as if not a curve would be induced in the top wing so with some trepidation I began to scribe a line into the first wing just beside the fuselage and then deepened it with a thin blade saw. The wing was flexed to increase the dihedral and the struts fitted with CA. Everything went fine and looked good :)
The second wing was then tackled but the flexing proved more resistant and the original wing fixing to the fuselage cracked. Re-glued without too much of a problem a tiny drop of MEK was applied to the groove to soften things a tad and that did the trick. Yep it did the trick alright - so good the wing fell off ::) Oh deary me indeed :(
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h7yKVisoVxQ/Vp67W-hGUTI/AAAAAAAAN5Q/5IlTGkXPlTo/s912-Ic42/DSCF8217.JPG)
With those immortal words of Corporal Jones ringing in my ears ''don't panic don't panic'' I drilled the fuse and wing for two small hard brass wire pins.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J96BN_vEHrE/Vp67WN9DjjI/AAAAAAAAN5I/CD11uN7--uI/s912-Ic42/DSCF8219.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Bqyf8gsrck/Vp67W8zoZGI/AAAAAAAAN5M/g8jlGYql_7s/s912-Ic42/DSCF8221.JPG)
...and soon had the wing back in place without too much visible damage - phew, hot flush panic subsides :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zdp9dwcVIac/Vp67ZVXN-RI/AAAAAAAAN5g/Qx52I12MGd8/s912-Ic42/DSCF8235.JPG)
Struts in on the second wing and the strut rigging was stretched and glued ..
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7clMEbRg2bk/Vp67YIXV4OI/AAAAAAAAN5Y/ti5-0sr8sDQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF8227.JPG)
Back on track then - the slight amount of distress visible should be easily overcome with some weathering ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u7Cq9RL--QY/Vp7EjbCLhSI/AAAAAAAAN58/UtuydqOzAb4/s912-Ic42/DSCF8230.JPG)
It has left me feeling a mite 'what else can go wrong'-ish however ::)
Anyway it's great to be back at the bench after this break, hopefully that should be for a good few weeks before the usual spring distractions kick in.
Regards - Tug
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Nice recovery from a potentially terminal disaster, Tug. It's a beautiful model and I'm very glad you were able to recover with no damage apparent.
A Felixstowe you say! That is a big box and a wonderful gift, I'm looking forward to following your adventures with that one! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi Tug, Thanks again for another modeling lesson. We all benefit from your observations.
Kevin
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Hello Tug!!!!
Looking great!!!! ;) Who needs WNW Camel if you can do this with Hobby Craft one ;) :P Following closely!
Cheerio
Lukas
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It looks as though you have more than recovered from the wing mishap! Beautiful work and terrific save!
RAGIII
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Very nice recover on the lower wing Tug . This is shaping up wonderful so far 8)
Terri
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"Take this broken wing and learn to fly"...........sorry, Tug, couldn't resist. But your masterpiece progresses.
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Hello
Just thought about the wing Tug ,even any one has the same probs when the wing goes back on, even if there a slight line where the glue line is, all you have to do is weathering powders like mig a soft brush over the area, a soft spray of thinners to fix's it will help to cover the crack line up , they where on fields of grass and muddy at times , if you all think about that when you wreathing the planes ,they would be dirty along the lower fuselage l hope that will helps you all in the future who reading this.
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Thanks as usual for all the kind comments 'guys' (that includes you Terri - that is you in your avatar I take it) all much appreciated :).
Yep that wing was a bit of a gut wrencher but was soon overcome. I've now near completed the rigging on the wings and am very pleased with this first attempt. No pics tonight but some next time.
Thanks Paul for your advice (Paul's a fellow club mate and a good modeller) but I have already disguised it with an oil wash. How about putting a post in the 'Your Introduction' page.
Regards - Tug
PS Lance - you are so right, it is a big box - but I couldn't resist especially as WNW kits seem to be going on the Sold Out List at an ever alarming rate. There's a way to go before even thinking about that one but at least it's safe in the stash ;)
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Your Camel is looking excellent Tug, you made an excellent recovery from what could have been a disaster. When I built my Academy Camel I had to alter the bottom wing dihedral, it was at 2º but needed to be 4.5º, it was quite an easy fix though. Looking forward to seeing more progress on this brilliant model.
Des.
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Will Tug
Just need to set the camera to take a couple of photos of the Fokker D7, to show the guys what l have done so far.
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That's all looking really beautiful Tug! I believe modelling is really about the ability to recover from disasters - and you have just proven me right! It's a great talent to just stand back and assess the damage - take a deep breath - and work out a way to fix it.. and then do a great job just like you did!
ATB,
Marc
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Hi guys - nothing done today as it's been a long sailing club day (that's model sailing in case you were wondering) but I am intending to get some real time in on the Camel tomorrow ;)
Des - Yes I had noticed your comment on thee dihedral on your build which I checked through after seeing how short the main struts appeared to be. Something I hadn't noticed at the start unfortunately but as it turned out it isn't looking far out now. As a result the top wing is now reasonably flat as opposed to looking like something that would propel an arrow.
Marc I always have a wry smile when I see a post of yours and your user name. My family nickname before being awarded 'Tug' when I left the Army was in fact 'Monty'. What family I have left still use it and one or two very old friends from my early days of aeromodelling do too. Gets a bit confusing for some at local shows when I get called both at the same time ::).
Since returning to plastic modelling in 2003 I can honestly say I have had no 'disasters' like this one on this build. However as things have come together at the end of other projects and particularly so armour (though not so much of that is tackled these days) - things can start to get knocked off or broken. The thing I've learnt is not to allow emotion to kick in and rush to fix it but step back, evaluate it and try to work out a strategy for dealing with it. If it's rushed you can bet 'yer bottom dollar' that nine times out of ten it will not be successful. The object has to be to try to get it back as original and not looking repaired but that's not always so easy particularly on very small things.
Hope to have an update with some pics tomorrow
Regards - Tug
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Great build, excellent painting and a good recovery - we've all had those moments :o
Looking forward to seeing more!
BC
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Hello Brad - Thanks for looking in ;) T'is a true old saying that 'things are sent to try us' but I've had more than a fair bit on this build ::) I only have to think about Guy's awful accident with his Felixstowe though and it all pales into insignificance.
Well a little bit more progress today :)
The rigging of the wings is complete with just a little bit of tweaking here and there with some oil wash to settle things in required. I've used .15mm monofilament for the main rigging. I ran the line through a split cut into the tip in a silver felt tip pen. Two passes and it looked very good but gradually this has worn off as used. Something I had overlooked is that it can be affected by humidity and will slacken so I don't think I will use this again but overall for a first time I'm reasonably pleased with the outcome so far. I used Gator glue in the main which proved okay though one or two 'let go' and slackened right off. These were reclaimed by pushing the line back in it's hole to tension with tweezers and using CA to fix it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nezxdR1z0DY/VqU-3A4e7uI/AAAAAAAAN6s/1KDqciAjdc8/s912-Ic42/DSCF8237.JPG)
I used 0.4 Albion brass tube to give the impression of RAF wire ends using the diameters to space the wires. This worked well enough but the top end had opened slightly on one wing. The one thing I have learnt on this build above all else is the constant need to think ahead - building these are a completely different kettle of fish to a jet that's for sure.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1vxK9YdUpqE/VqU-3HR7tbI/AAAAAAAAN6o/z4xvNNz4QLo/s912-Ic42/DSCF8244.JPG)
A few last details - two piquet rings as per a Von Bob job, a new laminated tailskid and that pump propeller got scraped clean and re-primed
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-83JfQbUCTW4/VqU-261gPiI/AAAAAAAAN6k/HXfk3mJME70/s912-Ic42/DSCF8249.JPG)
The engine finally received all it's spark plug wires - it looks fine by eye but the camera tells all :o It's had several layers of varying silvers - today it got buffed with Ushi's powder then sealed before an oil wash and highlighting with dabs of Vallejo Chrome
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ooJQHH2r_IQ/VqU-4zU7g1I/AAAAAAAAN60/QHnDS_YGcoI/s912-Ic42/DSCF8250.JPG)
Off it's fixture at last but not for long as that needs a slight mod to hold it for one last painting job before installing the tailplane and fin.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GW_LCcBKTT8/VqU-7IJrbrI/AAAAAAAAN7A/lxYKg--wntI/s912-Ic42/DSCF8255.JPG)
And of course I couldn't resist a sneak preview ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-di_VCiGxAeg/VqU-7HnqV0I/AAAAAAAAN7E/H5MFnplstlw/s912-Ic42/DSCF8256.JPG)
(http://)
That's where it is tonight - I have a slight anxiety over the rigging slackening but it's too late now to worry about that too much. Has anyone else experienced this problem with monofilament and if so what have you done to over come the problem. Also what is the preferred material to use. I am aware of most products, easy line, elastic sewing thread etc but what's the 'in thing' to use guys?
Thanks for looking in
Regards - Tug
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Hi Tug excellent build I have sent PM
Cheers Mick
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Tug,
I wouldn't worry about mono becoming slack. If it does, just heat a screwdriver head over a candle until red hot then place said steaming hot screwhead near, but not to near the centre of the offending rigging run... PING! DO NOT TOUCH THE RIGGING!!!!! ;D
von B
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Tug,
I wouldn't worry about mono becoming slack. If it does, just heat a screwdriver head over a candle until red hot then place said steaming hot screwhead near, but not to near the centre of the offending rigging run... PING! DO NOT TOUCH THE RIGGING!!!!! ;D
von B
First let me say another Terrific update and well done on the rigging! Bobs method is one of a number of heated objects that will tighten Monofilament rigging. I have great success using Incense sticks. The tip is hot enough and the smoke works also and lets you know where the heat is going.
RAGIII
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Thanks Von Bob - I'm usually reasonably carefree about handling my models but hmmm a 'steaming' red hot screwdriver :o :o
Actually I have heard of heating it and have witnessed it's recovery so am not too worried. I took a JU52 to a show which on opening the box had an aerial like a well hung washing line. After the initial :o I was pleased to find that within half an hour in the warm it had re-tightened itself
However I have spent a high portion of the morning searching for elastic type thread other than EZ line. My friend Paul (zsu 234) has come up with some 'knitting in elastic' which appears viable and reasonably priced. Also found that most fine 'invisible' black elastic is aimed predominantly at the 'Magic' environment so will investigate that possibility too.
Mick - got your message and am about to ring you. I have't seen him for a couple of years guys but I should perhaps say that if this is the Mick I'm thinking of we are in for a treat as he is a very accomplished WnW aficionado :)
Regards - Tug
Ah RAG your post has just come up - that seems a much less anxiety inducing remedy not to mention the nice aroma :) Thanks for that.
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Tug,
Unless you've already eliminated it take a look at this stuff, Modelkasten 1:48 and also 1:32 elastic rigging thread. It's stiffer then EZ Line, round vs. flat, and takes CA and even lacquer paint very well. Hobby Link Japan is by far the cheapest source at under $13 US for a 25m spool, ($25 at Sprue Brothers in the US) I use the 1:48 (0.13mm) on my 1:32 subjects where a stretch thread works better then mono and I like the stuff.
https://www.hlj.com/product/MDKHS-1/Air
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Lance - No I wasn't aware of that so I'll look into getting some soonest as it appears to be ideal.
I have had a very informative afternoon catching up with Mick ('Barrie') an old club colleague who had disappeared off the scene for a while. Still very much into making WWI aircraft it was a very enlightening conversation. Thanks for getting in touch Mick :)
Final little jobs done today - painting the 'lift here' markings and fitting the piquet rings. I gave the whole airframe a wash of white spirit and oil paint which has had the effect of not only cleaning off any finger marks etc but also giving an even look to things.
If there's time tonight I'll try to get the tailplane on but failing that tomorrow looks good to go ;)
Thanks again for your info guys - much appreciated
Regards - Tug
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I have also used the Modelkasten elastic line and it is excellent, highly recommended.
Love how you finished the engine, it looks superb and looks even better sitting in position.
Des.
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Hi Tug,
That rigging is looking superb. You have also achieved a very realistic look with some subtle weathering, all in the right places! It's all coming together most beautifully... nice little details too! Yes, the Monty isn't a bad nickname! I got mine back in 1973 (Egads! gave my old age away!) while doing National Service in the Air Force - I took some Airfix tanks along, in desert camo, so it explains the name! I found I knew a lot more about military history than most - it was the modelling...
I am slowly working on the old Academy kit - the terrible one - in Roy Brown's colours, now that's been lots of work! I need to scratch some struts now, just trying to figure out lengths, angles and thicknesses is an adventure - I'm following your thread carefully because of this. I hope you don't mind the photo in your thread, someone may find it of some interest.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo274/Marcleon_photos/IMG_3691.jpg)
Yeah, I know the elevator broke off! Still shiny due to decals going on, engine masked off, seems I do things differently...
Regards,
Marc
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Just spent ten minutes reading this thread and it was time very well spent. Attention to detail is superb. A joy to behold. I think I have this kit somewhere and it could well be my first foray into 1/32 modelling.
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It looks very great Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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Thanks for the confirmation Des and the kind comments - not long now before the engine is installed.
And thanks to you too Marc, Toby and Martin for yours.
No problem Marc - I don't know how much the Academy kit differs from the HobbyCraft version but this has to be one of the more trying builds I've done. Good luck with yours in the future. BTW I was awarded my nickname apparently before I was born! In 1944 my mother would save threepenny bits in a jar and apparently quipped 'another one for Monty' each time one was added. When I came along in 45 it was automatic ::)
Well it is nearing completion I'm pleased to say. The fixture was modified with some balsa scraps CA'd on in order to paint the 'Lift Here' legends.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CBhkPO4kNfc/Vqf4-aIiY6I/AAAAAAAAN7s/odUMNcMY3UU/s912-Ic42/DSCF8264.JPG)
With the aid of a box for support and trying to control the slight tremble that is beginning to develop in my hands a semblance of 'Lift Here' was painted on using Vallejo light grey lightened with white. Once the final weathering is done I'm hoping this will fade in and give the impression of stencilling
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gXRA3SWlLtM/Vqf499hKlyI/AAAAAAAAN7o/ofprCokBD8k/s912-Ic42/DSCF8266.JPG)
Whoops just hit the post button instead of preview ::)
With that last job complete the jig was also modified and the model held rigidly whilst the tail plane was fitted - I used 5 minute epoxy for that to ensure a good bond and a stable tailplane for connecting up the control cables.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mSVeYSHMBws/Vqf4-XJxnyI/AAAAAAAAN7k/O0VO3OrjNoI/s912-Ic42/DSCF8268.JPG)
The topside is now finished - just the horn tensioners to do underneath tomorrow. I used the same monofilament for the rigging as on the mainplanes - I'm not sure if the original had a smaller gauge of RAF wire on the tail but this does look reasonably in keeping with pics I have
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tiTNxt2bGsk/Vqf4_50JmPI/AAAAAAAAN70/jIt5sbPuuLk/s912-Ic42/DSCF8274.JPG)
I'll weather the whole area once all that's complete then there's just the front end to finish off
Thanks again for your comments and input guys - as always much appreciated
Regards - Tug
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Excellent wok Tug! I am sure I must have said this already but I only hope when the WNW Camel comes out mine ends up half as nice as your work on this one!
RAGIII
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I am not sure what I am most impressed with, your Camel or your very detailed thread. You have done an excellent job of both. The help a build thread like this provides the newbie is invaluable. I know it is a lot of work so I want to let you know it is appreciated. Now time to read more of your build.
Greg
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Thanks for your kind comment RAG and yours too Greg. You are so right in that it does take time but for me there's no point in joining a forum if you don't join in. If or when someone benefits from that action - or by doing so you learn from others - then it's time well spent. To hear it's appreciated specifically is always an extra bonus :)
Well, we are at the end - nearly! The model is now constructionally finished but as usual it will now require a base and a cover so that will be a day or two or three especially as the French GB is exerting a pull ;)
The underneath of the tail was finished off today and the tailskid fitted into the ali tube CA'd into the 'vee' of the fuse sides. The control cables to steer the skid were CA'd to a small piece of plastic card which was glued inside the fuse out of sight and the lines tensioned and connected to the skid horns
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h7jzdsbfF5c/VqpPvT66BvI/AAAAAAAAN8Q/QjnZLRbclcU/s912-Ic42/DSCF8281.JPG)
The engine was epoxied in place as I had noticed it was not actually concentric with the cowl in situ. The central pin was removed which allowed alignment with the cowl temporarily in place
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P5ubgem5LIk/VqpPvvlmscI/AAAAAAAAN8U/nF4rBoqJTQQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF8277.JPG)
By holding the base board of the jig in a vise it made this op very easy. This is the first time I have made a jig that can be used in this fashion and will definitely do so again on further builds
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SrwPWbb-OHg/VqpP2QVvYvI/AAAAAAAAN80/48WQsjhMMoQ/s912-Ic42/DSCF8280.JPG)
With the cowl on, the cowl fastenings were simulated with some parts off an Abrams tank etch sheet and the propeller, fitted with those excellent Taurus prop drive plates, was finally installed to complete the build.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TtlC7rDUaiQ/VqpPxXLpcMI/AAAAAAAAN8c/fmTUK8eU_tc/s912-Ic42/DSCF8287.JPG)
Well this is it - the final pic of the build. I do need to weather the underneath of the tailplane to match the rest but will do that just before I set it on the base.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P9yKFUlxQFw/VqpPyZUXfXI/AAAAAAAAN8k/C7STbXTRp3Q/s912-Ic42/DSCF8290.JPG)
I shall leave it in the jig while the base is being made but once it is all complete will post a series of pics in the Completed Model section.
I'd just like to finish by saying a big thank you to all who have followed whether you have commented or not. If you have (you all know who you are :) ) your input and comments have been much appreciated and given me a high degree of satisfaction to be able to contribute to this great community.
That's my first build over then so with the future looking very attractive - pass me that Nieuport!
Regards - Tug
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Tug,
She's a real awesome beauty my old friend. You've truly turned a sow's ear into a silk purse! Well Done. This thread is an excellent how to reference for anyone building the Academy Camel.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Tug,
An absolute pleasure to follow along on your progress and, from these few last photos, a spectacular result. I'll be onto your completed thread as soon as it's posted. To repeat Greg's comment, you have done an absolutely superb job with a very challenging Kit, nicely done!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks for those comments Gregory and Lance, glad you enjoyed the thread :)
I have to admit this was the most trying of builds so far done since returning to scale modelling but I really am pleased with the outcome considering the standard of the kit overall. Predominantly the fits weren't too bad but as you've seen it has had it's moments ::). I'm hoping that the special Hobby Nieuport won't prove quite so challenging and definitely not the WNW version which despite having built this one I will still be up the front of the queue for one when their's is finally with us
Regards - Tug
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I followed your build from start to finish and would like to thank you for all the hints and tips you have given along the way, your build will be used by many as it is excellent reference material. This has turned out to be an awesome looking model and I look forward to seeing the photos in the completed model board.
Des.
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That really is a spectacular build and it goes to show that you don't need a WNW kit to produce an absolute winner.
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Tug-Tastic!
;)
vB
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Tug,
This has been an absolutely Awesome build to follow! Not only informative with great descriptions of how you did things, but also just beautiful results! I am looking forward to the final photos and your next build!
RAGIII
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Lovely build Tug, the real dogs danglies,well done.
Cheers
Pete.
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Outstanding build Tug.
Cheers
Martin
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Beautiful Camel, Tug! As everyone has said, you have made a so-so kit into a top-of-the-line model. Now that you have finished, WnW can release their Camel! ;D But, I'm sure anyone building the WnW Camel will still refer to your excellent build! :)
George
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Beautiful build Tug , turning this into a spectacular work of art . Looking forward to the seeing her mounted on her base :)
Terri
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'Guys' - I'm about to disappear to Norwich for the weekly sailing session but couldn't go without thanking you all for these kind comments. As a Newbie on here and this my first thread I've been very honoured and humbled by your constant words of encouragement and support throughout the build. I can only say Thank You but it's truly said with much appreciation :)
Des - it's been my privilege to participate and I look forwards to being part of this terrific community for a long time to come - thank you for providing it for us.
I began the base yesterday and want to produce something that conveys a stony grassy area. Using 'grass' is a completely new aspect of modelling for me so another learning curve approaches - there's some experimenting to do so I'll keep you informed of the attempts.
Thanks again 'guys'
Regards to you all - Tug
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Hi again :) The end really is nigh now as I now have a base to sit it on. Not quite what I had in mind though as I chickened out at trying to produce a 'stony' effect ::)
I bought this grass effect mat at Telford last year along with another with slightly darker and somewhat longer tufts. It's the first time I have used anything like this and was not sure how it would perform. It turned out good in some ways and not so good (for me) in another....
The mat was about 60mm longer than this - this was cut to fit the base .....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MqunW4eZFlQ/VrEb82FuO2I/AAAAAAAAN-E/Lti5E6eSo8g/s912-Ic42/DSCF8293.JPG)
..and the residue used as test pieces, none save one anything near what I'd hoped for.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MiuecJPIfGM/VrEcCLTexII/AAAAAAAAN-U/_qvVH98fSAI/s912-Ic42/DSCF8308.JPG)
I had hoped the Polyfilla sub base would have seeped through the 'Scotchbrite' like sub surface of the mat to fill in between the tufts but this proved extremely resistant to that even when prodded. Soaking the mat improved things slightly but that in effect diluted the surface of the Polyfilla and the resultant very thin watery liquid soaked through and wicked up the tufts rather than just soaking into the sub surface.
This was the best result of a poor lot and close to what I had in my minds eye but still not what I'd hoped for.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Uff9uXlU1UQ/VrEcCDtXNvI/AAAAAAAAN-s/QsqspWrEjVY/s912-Ic42/DSCF8310.JPG)
I applied PVA on top in between the tufts sprinkling sieved cat litter over then shaking off the residue. This looked good to begin with but the cat litter gradually soaked up the pva and holes began to appear as it dried. The litter dust also had a pigment effect on the tufts.
The decision was made to use the mat as is for effect rather than realism at this stage as more experimenting is required on this. A base was cut from the usual MDF and a pocket milled in to take the mat. 'Green Putty was then spread so as to give an undulating surface.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2HdNNVc37Bk/VrEb9OtAMJI/AAAAAAAAN-s/yqJOQ09RM24/s912-Ic42/DSCF8298.JPG)
The instructions with the mat suggest painting beneath - this was vallejo acrylic primer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-InTB8kP7LIk/VrEb9GS3lPI/AAAAAAAAN-s/ILmowgmfkZs/s912-Ic42/DSCF8304.JPG)
Once dry a thick coat of Titebond PVA woodworking glue was spread and allowed to semi dry before laying the predampened mat on top
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4aNsyQ-bA68/VrEb-3xcogI/AAAAAAAAN-s/RTT_I22UagI/s912-Ic42/DSCF8307.JPG)
The mat flowed easily over the low contours of the putty without lifting in the low areas but has shrunk a very small amount around the edges. Due allowance will be made in future ::)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KXmcazm37Lk/VrEcCgMN6qI/AAAAAAAAN-s/tVpvptxKWzw/s912-Ic42/DSCF8321.JPG)
At this stage I don't want to risk spoiling this with attempting to fill in between the tufts so will stick with this as is. I may just add a little colour here and there and perhaps lighten the tops of the tufts with a spot of dry brushing to break up the uniformity.
Next session will see this project finished - I had forgotten the air pump propeller so that has to go on, the underneath of the tailplane still requires weathering and there's a nameplate to do but it is at an end.
If anyone has any experience using this kind of product and has anything to add please, please do so - base work has never been a strong point particularly where any kind of 'foliage' is concerned so any thing you can add will be more than appreciated
That said however, I hope this little foray into the unknown will be of interest to someone
Regards - Tug
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Pretty hard to add anything, Tug...obvious your instincts and imagination are spot on with your base as well...looks to me that it will accept your Camel with perfect ease. Can't wait to see it. -M
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Hi Tug, Another great lesson. I learn new bits from all your posts.
Thanks much,
Kevin
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Doug, Kevin - thanks for your comments and input :)
Yesterday and most of today saw very little progress though yesterday was mainly taken up with a really great lunch with all the other 'yachties' from our model boat club and their wives - very enjoyable all round.
I did the final touches this afternoon but gave myself a minor heart attack when in trying to blow some spots of pigment over the tail lower surfaces caught the paintbrush with the airflow a bit too much and shot a great splodge of it over one side. Fortunately I was using white spirit as a medium so it was quickly wiped off and all resolved but for an instant my heart sunk - eleventh hour and all that. This build certainly has had it's moments ::)
My printer needs a thorough overhaul if not replacing so printing the nameplate proved a chore but a reasonable one was finally produced so with that in place (with some peel-able glue in case an improvement is forthcoming) it's done. Tomorrow I will get the lights down from the loft and hopefully get some better lit images to post on 'Completed Models'. In the meantime though I thought you might like a sneak preview as of 15 mins ago :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W220z7Mp0tQ/VrPCTblZpmI/AAAAAAAAN_A/uIOQcxcEr1k/s912-Ic42/DSCF8324.JPG)
So to coin that well known phrase then, 'That's all Folks'
Thanks for watching,
Regards - Ramon
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This is one of the Nicest and most beautifully detailed Camel builds I have seen to date! It has been a pleasure watching you show us what can be done with modeling skills to a BASIC kit!
RAGIII
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Tug, folks sharing builds like this are what makes this forum so great. Everyone can learn something / get inspired from your excellent presentation. Bravo.
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Great presentation, Tug! I must say the colours look just right and I look forward to the completed photos.
Kevin
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Got to agree with, Rick ;)
Without doubt one of the finest 1/32 Camel I've seen to this day.
Well done!!
vB :)
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As usual guys - RAG (Rick?) Bo, Kevin and Von B my appreciation for your kind words and support. It's been a brilliant time and I've enjoyed sharing the journey - thanks to all who've followed along.
I have just posted some pics in the Completed Models section so I hope they were what you wanted - take care everyone - enjoy your modelling too. I'll be back soon at a GB build near here tout suite ;)
Regards - Tug
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Tug that is a very fine model.
Cheers
Martin
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Thanks for your constant comments Martin - they've been much appreciated :)
Tug
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Hello Tug!!!
This was great and very enjoyable build to watch... thank you for sharing it with us! ;)
Cheerio
Lukas