forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Gutzer on March 26, 2015, 07:01:16 PM
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I have started working on a few bits and pieces for a 1/16 Sopwith Camel using the Model Airways kit as a base. I have seen a few of these builds and recognise that whilst the kit is far from perfect, with a bit (probably more like a lot...) of work can be made into something special. I take my inspiration from Rizzo Pez's fantastic build at http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234925788-116-sopwith-camel/ (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234925788-116-sopwith-camel/)
Waiting for the kit to arrive in Oz, I thought I might make better Vickers than the supplied brittania metal guns. I started by modifying a 3D Vickers machine gun I had to allow for 3D printing.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/v66p94.jpg)
Then uploaded the STL file to Shapeways for printing.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/53pwdu.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/fbyooj.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/35nanw8.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/11qs5n5.jpg)
https://www.shapeways.com/product/5CHFHM2EW/vickers-machine-gun-1-16-scale (https://www.shapeways.com/product/5CHFHM2EW/vickers-machine-gun-1-16-scale)
This is in Shapeways frosted detail material and is quite detailed. I also got them to make one in stainless steel, which is good, but requires a bit of polishing to remove the rough texture.
Next up making a laminated prop...
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I remember following Rizzo Pez's build years ago so I am now really looking forward to seeing your build. You have started off really well with the Vickers MG and the laminated propeller should be a joy to watch unfold.
Des.
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First attempts at prop making.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2mc6f76.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2uy3gva.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2elgkfl.jpg)
I used 1mm mahogany and lime sheets cutting the eight laminate layers according to a pattern from Pez Rizzo. Surprisingly easy to sand back using a Dremel and some fine sand paper. Two coats of sanding sealer, sanding back between each coat then three coats of french polish (and ultimately cutting back the gloss with wood wax and 0000 steel wool after a week of drying...not done yet).
Not completely happy about the shape...the centre hub should be circular and a bit bigger. >:( Also, using two starkly different woods accentuates any irregularity in the layer shapes. I think I prefer the all mahogany version.
At 1/16th (6.25%...) the prop dimensions are 166mm high x 9mm deep at the hub, which is 13mm in diameter according to plans by David Bathe at http://www.davidbathe.com/uploads/4/5/5/2/455275/prop-measurmentsv4.jpg (http://www.davidbathe.com/uploads/4/5/5/2/455275/prop-measurmentsv4.jpg)
I'll practice making a few more to get that hub right, this time using David's plans if I can work out the layer shapes ??? Anyone have any better plans?
Still waiting for the kit to arrive hopefully before the start of Easter... :P
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Outstanding work on the prop and the Vickers! I am looking forward to your progress!
RAGIII
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Thanks for the encouragement RAGIII. Finally got the Model Airways kit, but wanted to get the prop right before moving on. So I made another one with eight laminated layers of 1mm mahogany, sanding sealer and several coats of french polish finally ending with a light going over with 0000 superfine steel wool to get the satin, not so gloss, finish. Shape is much better this time with a larger round hub.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/szu7x0.jpg)
Also working on a brass 'wicker' seat for the Camel which I'll post soon...
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Beautiful work on the propeller Gutzer, the finish is superb.
Des.
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Wow! That is a truly gorgeous prop!
Cheers,
Bud
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Yes! Beautiful.
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Wow! That is a truly gorgeous prop!
Cheers,
Bud
What Bud said :)
Terri
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Thanks all. Practice makes, well, better..
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Yes, I echo what everyone's saying, nice prop! Makes 1/16 scale very tempting.
George
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Yes, I echo what everyone's saying, nice prop! Makes 1/16 scale very tempting.
George
You know, I was thinking that if Hasegawa or someone else started 1/16th regular injection kits this aging Modeler might have to give it a go.... ::) seriously though, I couldn't afford the scale price ;D
RAGIII
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RAGIII,
Less than a WNW Felixstowe for the Hasegawa 1/16 museum kit Sopwith..........and it is Injected moulded.....
Just saying.... :D
Ctefeh
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RAGIII,
Less than a WNW Felixstowe for the Hasegawa 1/16 museum kit Sopwith..........and it is Injected moulded.....
Just saying.... :D
Ctefeh
Note I said "Regular" kit meaning not just a structural framework ;D Besides, the WNW Felix, and AEG are way above my normal price range. I stick to the $69.00 to $99.00 range.... and only s couple of those per year.
RAGIII
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Nice work on the prop.I like the solid color better it ever so slightly shows the laminate process and as it ages may show it more.
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That's looking great! I think you made the right choice with using the all mahogany one too- looks more authentic.
Great job with the Vickers too! I'm looking foward to seeing how that looks with some paint on. Have you thought about something for the engine? I did consider the idea, but wasn't sure how to get those cooling fins printed thin enough.
Pez
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That's looking great! I think you made the right choice with using the all mahogany one too- looks more authentic.
Great job with the Vickers too! I'm looking foward to seeing how that looks with some paint on. Have you thought about something for the engine? I did consider the idea, but wasn't sure how to get those cooling fins printed thin enough.
Pez
Hey Rizzo, thanks! The engine is a slight concern >:( I notice that there is a fine clerget on Shapeways available in 1/20th and 1/9th scales:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/MTJG5QRP6/cg19-1piece?li=search-results-1&optionId=2828756 (https://www.shapeways.com/product/MTJG5QRP6/cg19-1piece?li=search-results-1&optionId=2828756)
https://www.shapeways.com/product/BXB794N7Q/cg120?li=search-results-1&optionId=6051364 (https://www.shapeways.com/product/BXB794N7Q/cg120?li=search-results-1&optionId=6051364)
I have asked the designer if he could make it available in 1/16, but I really would like to keep the plastic away.... ::)
Currently I'm practicing my soldering skills making a brass seat similar to Ken Foran's seat (hopefully) in the links below:
http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/images/ForanSC11.jpg (http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/images/ForanSC11.jpg)
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/64782-hobbycraft-sopwith-camel-132/ (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/64782-hobbycraft-sopwith-camel-132/)
The seat base has worked out quite well, drilling the holes in the 1/16th inch tube was a bit tricky...ended up getting a drill press for my Dremel and a drill press vice which made it easier, though I wish there was a proper cross slide vice for that press which allowed fine movements of the object. I should have some pics to post next week. :D
Peter
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First attempts at soldering brass...
(http://i59.tinypic.com/hwzk3o.jpg)
I'm planning on soldering the rises together (see http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/?attachment_id=182 (http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/?attachment_id=182)), then cutting the framework to match the shape of the seat back, then wrapping and soldering that 'mesh' in one go to the the vertical frame of the seat.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/qoefjq.jpg)
In an earlier version I started to add brass stringers to the seat base through holes drilled into the frame, intending to weave that with brass wire, but far too much work which wouldn't be seen under the leather seat I'm making. After doing the brass weaving across the vertical rises and winding around the seat frame (conveniently hiding my soldering skills... ;)), I'll add 1mm aircraft ply into the seat base on which the leather (actually Model Factory Hiro adhesive leather-look cloth http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_32_72&products_id=653 (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_32_72&products_id=653)) seat will sit.
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Hello gentlemen,
Most impressive work.
Best Regards.
Alain.
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Wonderful job of the propeller, and your soldering is very
well done!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Your seat will be amazing when finished. Very clean soldering!
George
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For your first attempt at soldering you have done a superb job, well done.
Des.