forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: JoeDxMB on June 16, 2012, 08:38:17 AM
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I decided to experiment with oil paints for wood color/grains and, I know next to nothing about oil paints.
What is the best thing to thin it with and for clean up? Is it linseed oil?
Also, is it nessay to seal it in areas where it will not be handeled like in an interior/ cockpit, etc as long as you are satisfied with the look?
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Joe
Use turps substitute or low odour thinners to thin or it will take a lifetime to dry, you may want to mix Liquin or a Gel medium (available from art shops) to accelerate the drying time. Generally people seal it with a clear coat or tinted coat yes but for an interior it would be okay as long as it hasnt dried tacky.
Hope this helps.
Keith
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OK... I saw some "Turpenoid" at the store I just got my oil paints from.
They gave me a coupon for 50% off on any single item in the store all next week starting this sunday. So, I will return to get some.
Thanks. :)
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Your local art shop should supply Winsor & Newton oils which are good quality oils. Get yourself some of the earth tones
such as the umbers and Sienna's raw and burnt and a cadmium yellow should suffice. Get their low odour thinners, they may even be odourless. Once applied I'd tend to leave it for about 4 days to dry and then seal with an acrylic gloss tinted with yellows or oranges or red or smoke or any combo of the above to get the desired shade.
For clean up of brushes get a bottle of cheap as chips white spirit rather than using your more expensive thinner.
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As an alternative thinner I use Testors Model Master Airbrush thinner. it is hotter than Turpentine Substitutes and dries much more quickly. Still gives plenty of time for working with the oils. No need for additives to speed up drying time.
RAGIII
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Your local art shop should supply Winsor & Newton oils which are good quality oils. Get yourself some of the earth tones
such as the umbers and Sienna's raw and burnt and a cadmium yellow should suffice. Get their low odour thinners, they may even be odourless. Once applied I'd tend to leave it for about 4 days to dry and then seal with an acrylic gloss tinted with yellows or oranges or red or smoke or any combo of the above to get the desired shade.
For clean up of brushes get a bottle of cheap as chips white spirit rather than using your more expensive thinner.
To be honest, my preliminary exprimentations with the very inexpensive "Reeves" oils I got yielded some great results so far. I also already had some (Tamiya) clear orange, clear red and smoke on hand that I tried with great effect .
I will try some white/mineral spirits as I need some to flush out my air brush anyway.
Thanks. :)
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Joe
If your artshop sells Winsor & Newton oil paints, try their Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying oil colour, it dries overnight so you don't have to wait 4 or 5 days for it to dry like ordinary oils.
Cheers
Pete.
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Another question.........
Oil paint may be "dry" to the touch in a few days but, how long must you wait to seal it with whatever?
I asked
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Dear all !
There are water solulable oil paints out there, too. Most oil brands produce them.
Check them out.
Oil solulable Oils:
I take a piece of toilet paper (cleanex, paper..) and put the oil paint on it to get rid of the oil;
I dilute the oil with petrol (and enamels , too) that you buy for cigarette lighters.
It evaporates fast, the oils dry faster (and matted enamels look really matt- take a toothpick
to get the paint out of the tin can and thin it with the petrol ).
Gunther
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I have also taken the plunge into oil paints. I have started my first WNW kit, a Sopwith Pup RNAS, and thought that now is the time. Bought some Windsor&Newton oils and also something called Japan Drier. I used some Burnt Sienna on a few small interior parts. Very interesting stuff to work with.
A question I have is : Is the Japan Drier comparable to the other drying agents mentioned?
Thanks,
Mike
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Yes, Japan dryer will do the trick. The one thing I strongly advise is do not use a wax Medium such as Dorlands. It speeds up drying but will crack over a period of years if you use just a tad too much in your mix... How do I know :o
RAGIII
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RAGIII Thanks for the quick response. Back to the bench to do some more learning!!
Mike