forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: NinetythirdLiberator on January 25, 2015, 08:06:29 AM
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All,
For a while now, I've been making turnbuckles in 1/32nd and they look ok if not as nice as Des' ::)
The things that make mine look worse (among other things) are that the collar looks too thick to me in scale and I almost always mess them up when I add the glue to lock everything in place. I decided to try something that would be 1) smaller and thinner and maybe more scale and 2) would allow me to forgo the glue step. With a little practice, I think I've found it. I'll try and explain my steps withe these pictures.
1) Cut off your tubing to an approximate length. The shrinking won't make it too much smaller. So cut it just a bit over sized. In the picture, you see a sewing needle, a piece of my rigging with the tip colored black and the tubing which is the near vertical piece by the "9".
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2794_zpsebzj9w7o.jpg)
2) Thread it through. This just takes a little patience and tweezers. No harder than what Des has shown except the tubing is flexible.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2795_zpsrzzu5imk.jpg)
3) Next, I put the tiny tip of a sewing needle into the tubing sleeve on the end that will accept the rigging for the second time. If you look carefully, you can see the tubing end just a little bit flexed.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2796_zpsuoyymsbt.jpg)
4) Now put it through your ring connection at the rigging point. This is part of a WNW Salmson fuselage.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2799_zpsuvfiq3ak.jpg)
5) Here it is after you put the end back through the tubing. You do need a magnifying lens or glasses, some tweezers again and nice fingers. I find that the black tip of the rigging along with the slightly enlarged tubing end make it a doable task. Just take your time. ;)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2800_zpszvlq4ynr.jpg)
6) While of the above is going on, pre-heat your soldering iron. With the sleeve pulled tight the way you want it, simply put the tip of the iron near the tubing. It shrinks up like a champ and after it cools is tight enough that glue isn't necessary (at least so far!). Trim as needed.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2791_zpsdsr4wb8b.jpg)
7) The finished bay with the rigging colored by a black marker.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee260/smithdr/IMG_2803_zpsd3ekp5cl.jpg)
So far, the tubing I use shrinks before I've had any trouble melting the fishing line rigging. It takes some practice, but I think it looks cool in the end.
The tubing I'm using is surgical heat shrink tubing of the kind used in pace makers and electrical things put in patients. I searched and found a company but the minimum order was prohibitive cost-wise. I contacted their distribution and told them what I wanted it for. They sent me 4 feet of cut-off sample for the price of shipping (about $12 USD) whereas I'd have had to spend well over $100 just to test this crazy idea out so I'm pleased.
If you feel adventurous, give it a go! I'll rig a whole plane with it soon and let you see how it looks.
Here are my dimensions and make of tubing I used...sorry you guys had to ask...I should have included this! :-[
My rigging says 0.004 inches so I multiplied by two and got 0.008 inches. The tubing I got has an inside diameter of 0.01 inches and a wall thickness of 0.00015 inches (before shrinking) so except for the flexibility, things slide through ok with a little coaxing.
Part # 103-0020 Black
Vention Advanced Polymers
29 Northwestern Drive
Salem, New Hampshire USA
03079-2838
ventionmedical.com for an on-line catalog. That's what I used to find my tubing size.
P.S. I have absolutely no affiliation with these folks but I thank them anyway for taking the time to deal with a crazy modeler. I assume there are similar companies around the world that would do the same.
Cheers,
Dan
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Very cool, Dan! I've never seen heat shrink that small. Where do you get it?
Cheers,
Bud
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This appears to be a great idea Dan, I have never seen heat strink tube that small, do you have a code or product number or the dimensions of the tube, inside diameter is the most important, this will determine the size of the mono being used. Thanks Dan for posting this, it is food for thought.
Des.
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Sorry Des...I added the dimensions in the original post. That will sure give folks more info.
Dan ;D
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Considering I can't seem to master stretching tube/ear buds, and can't seem to cut tubing straight, this could be an option for me ::)
Is there any issue with the soldering iron getting hot enough to melt the mono?
RAGIII
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Hi Rick...
So far, that hasn't happened. Sometimes the loose end starts to twist a bit so it does melt but if I hit it just right with the correct temperature, it cinches right up and shrinks tight. This might be because it's so thin and it's medical grade so it doesn't take too much heat. I've only done about 10 of these but I've only messed up one so 90% isn't too shabby! ;) ;)
I'll keep playing with it and see what happens. I do think it looks pretty scale too.
Thanks for looking...Dan
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I think that would be much worse...I can never direct the heat where needed. I can see warping whole wings that way!
Maybe it's just me. The soldering iron works in a very pin-point manner. I'll wait until I drop it and it slides through a wing...then I'll be crying a different story... ;)
Dan
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This is more like it - something that looks about right/in-scale. Although I admire the skill of Des and others who use the brass tube method I really don't like it as it looks far too clunky and unrealistic. Yours is a refined technique and something to follow up. Until I master some sort of loop/knot technique with monofilament that looks half decent I've got to stick with elastic lines.
Good luck!
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Looks very similar to the good old stretched plastic cotton ear buds/Q-tips that Windsock magazine used to show being used some years ago. Although if I remember a freshly extinguished match was used rather than a soldering iron?
The consistency problem with the latter is certainly avoided with the tubing, whilst I tend to agree it looks a little more in scale than brass tubing, especially on a small plane like a Pup. I use Des's tubing & wire method and although it's very good & the best I've seen, this looks promising. The only problems I can foresee is the extra patience required, mores stable hands and sharper eyesight.
I'll certainly give this a go. I've tried Gaspatch's turnbuckles, but they just look over-scale to me, whilst the cost is a little prohibitive, especially on a multi-rigged kit like a DH.2, Gotha or Felixstowe. Especially the Felixstowe! I also feel like buying Gaspatch's is perhaps defeating the object of building a kit and using and developing your own skills. Personally, I find it just a little bit less satisfying having used Gaspatch stuff, even though it is a fantastic extra. This is no criticism of Gaspatch, just my own opinion.
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Hi Kai,
I do remember that but I don't recall shrinking the pulled cotton bud...that could work just as well. My problem with that method has been getting the pulled tube just right and then I still used glue to tack it in place. Still...I think there is certainly lots of room for experimentation. I guess whatever works is the best and these all work. ;)
I agree about Des' brass too. It's the best I've seen and super consistent. Just look at his lovely models!
Time will tell if I can actually use this heat shrink on a full build under load...
Cheers,
Dan
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I have never been able to get the cotton bud plastic tube to stretch right either.
Warren
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I have never been able to get the cotton bud plastic tube to stretch right either.
Warren
Hi Warren...
The only thing I've been able to use them for is tiny exhausts on some Austro-Hungarian types and gun barrels after wasting about 10 while pulling. I do think they take a lot of finesse to work right. I admire those you can use them...Dan
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Evidently we just don't have "the touch" Dan. Your use of the heat-shrink tubing is brilliant IMHO. Perhaps those that are interested can go in together for a roll.
Warren
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If I can source the heat shrink tube I will certainly give it a go.
Des.
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:)
www.ventionmedical.com/products-and-services/advanced-polymers/heat-shrink-tubing/catalog/
HTH
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Thanks very much boggie, I will check it out.
Des.
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i think it would be great to use in conjunction with brass tube or gaspathch as well. say you have a turnbuckle mounted to a wing in the past you had to run the mono thru the tb and back thru a 1mm length of brass tube and pull tight to make the wrap that holds the cable end in a loop. get me.
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I get you Albie! ;)
I used polymide tubing in conjunction with brass tube on my Pfalz.
VB
(http://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/images/21.jpg)
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Von Buckles...THAT'S what I'm talking about. That looks sweet. ;) ;)
Cheers,
Dan
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I once experimented with some small diameter electrical grade heat shrink tubing. It was possible to use a fine sewing needle to expand the entire inside diameter to make it easier to pass through the monofilament. Perhaps this might also work with the Vention Medical tubing although I am unsure what micro sized tapered instrument would fit into a .010 diameter tube for the purpose of stretching it. Maybe a piece of .015 inch diameter music wire with a finely ground tip.