forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: eindecker on December 23, 2014, 05:36:45 PM
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This post is in the spirit of inquiry only. I am curious about experiences and comments on using GasPatch turnbuckles, especially in 1:32 scale.
I have not used GasPatch turnbuckles. From what I have read on various posts, and seen on various models, they appear to be very difficult to align with the rigging line direction. Hard to avoid a kink between the two. Also, they are expensive. I have worked out my system of "twisted wire eyes" (basically Bob's Buckles), brass tube and various kinds of rigging line material.
Can anyone comment on their experiences and evaluation of Gaspatch's turnbuckles. I think they offer a higher level of accuracy, but at what cost?
Thanks.
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does somerone used thrm at 1/48?
They seems overside but the result is good?
some pics perhaps?
thanks
Xan
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I've gone off them a bit for the reasons you state. I'd probably still use them as lower attachments on pfalzs and albys but not RFC aircraft.
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Keep in mind aircraft typically had many different sized turnbuckles; they were sized for cable size and load. I have only closely studied Albatros and Fokker applications; in these instances the 1/32 turnbuckles are appropriate only for the largest load wires and still maybe a bit oversize.
To solve the orientation issue and to try and mimic the gimbel action of the Albatros turnbuckles, I made functioning ball and socket joints. Time will tell if it works out ;)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file_zps4de66a00.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file_zps010bf108.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file_zps3ff88683.jpg)
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I've used them several times and my experience has been much the same as Red Barons. I definitely agree that the 1:32 versions are over scale for most applications. Other then those pointed out by Bo I've used the 1:48 products and quite like the results on 1:32 subjects. Expensive, fiddley, delicate, yes to all but still a good product IMHO..
Cheers,
Lance
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I made functioning ball and socket joints.
Quite possibly completely crazy.
Quite possibly, indeed...but Bravo!
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I've done a couple models (well three but a DVII barely counts with the minimal rigging) with these and am pretty happy - they seem less work to me than making turnbuckles from cut brass tube and no more difficult to use than that method.
>>>>They also come in 'plain' versions that you could pass a piece of wire through and form an eyelet
This is what I do - I just purchase the one kind (C version I think) and make an eyelet at one end that fixes it to the aircraft - this allows the turnbuckle to align correctly when you pull the line taught....
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj150/petrov27/006_zpsd19af3f4.jpg)
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Neat solution to the alignment issue. However, excepting the shape, it would seem that there is not much difference between a cut tube and the Gaspatch body. Other than making the tube the amount of work is almost the same.
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Petrov, is that Polyimide tubing for the whipping? Those look great.
IMHO, considering their cone to cone like shape, the Gaspatch turnbuckles look a lot more like turnbuckles than a piece of straight brass tube. As they are a tad rough, I'm going to start experimenting with trying to fill out the form a little using some sort of filler, epoxy, not sure yet. I just feel that with just a little help, they could really look like real turnbuckles.
Michael
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Thank you - yes I use the polymide tubing. On my most recent build I polished the buckles some with a low speed motor tool and it smoothed them out a bit.
As far as comparing these to brass tube, yes it really is just the shape that is the difference - to me that makes me prefer them - the tapered body etc. to me looks better than the cylinder of brass tube....
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I only use them 1:48 scale ones, as those of 1:32 scale seem to be overly large. I had problems with one batch of those turnbuckles where the eyelet is already part of the turnbuckle, as the "other eye" was solid on 50% of those turnbuckles and had to be drilled out. Carefully and sloooowly. Despite all loving care, I managed to break some of those turnbuckles (which made the rest of that set even more expensive).
I started with Bob's buckles and brass tubes, and I use that system at some attachment points, still, but that does look different to a turnbuckle. I have decided for myself that I will stay with Gaspatch's products for the next builds.
Stefan
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As nice as the GasPatch turnbuckles look I will stick with my home made brass tube and twisted copper wire turnbuckles, from a reasonable viewing distance they look just like any other turnbuckle.
Des.
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As nice as the GasPatch turnbuckles look I will stick with my home made brass tube and twisted copper wire turnbuckles, from a reasonable viewing distance they look just like any other turnbuckle.
Des.
I have to agree with you, Des & that has nothing to do with me making and selling them.
Vb
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Speaking of which, what is the smallest diameter brass tube one can purchase for doing this?
Warren
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Thanks RB!
Warren
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Take the diameter of your rigging material, then double that, plus a tiny bit more for enough room, and that's tje inside diameter of the tubing you need. For example, using 0.005" diameter monofilament (I.e. fly fishing tippet material), you would need an inner diameter of 0.010", plus a bit, say, 0.012".
Brass tubing works well for me.
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I use 0.5mm brass tube supplied by Griffon Model, it has an inside diameter of 0.33mm so it easily takes two runs of 0.12mm monofilament, CA bonds extremely well to the brass tube and the mono.
Des.
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Thanks Eindecker, that helps! Now, to find some .012 tube. :)
Warren