forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: falcon04 on November 14, 2014, 04:38:34 AM
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I'm a little intimidated by the large ( full wing, in some cases ) Lozenge decals supplied now in kits and aftermarket.
I have the basics of decal application pretty solidly down - 50+ years so I should have it right - but I dread the dreaded "fold over" coupled with the "fracture" risk inherent in any large water slide decal application.
? How do you handle a full wing or fuselage side decal ?
? Do you section the decal ?
TIA
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Falcon,
From what I've seen here it seems some do, some don't. Like you I've invested over 50 years into this past time, and perhaps it's memories of past failures that drives me to a cautious approach on this...........I always cut the large ones into sections. As long as you are careful, and choose your cut locations to avoid large protuberances, etc. and along joints in the pattern it works, pardon the pun, seamlessly. For example, on a 1:32 D.VII Upper Wing I recently cut the three Lozenge panels supplied (not counting the wingtips) each in half and with careful alignment there are no seams apparent. Similarly the fuselage sides were cut into three more or less equal portions.
Cheers,
Lance
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I section as well . Makes work a lot easier in the end .
Terri
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I have used the large cookie cutter decal sections from both WNW and Aviattic as is without any difficulty. I also used the 5 color joined Lozenge from Aviattic on my Albatros DVa and covered the upper wing in 3 sections. Not too difficult but not too easy. a wet surface as stated helps things along.
RAGIII
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I use them whole for wings. I slide the decal off the paper a centimetre or so and onto the surface as close to its final position, then I slide out the backing paper slowly from underneath the decal then smooth out, before finishing with a hairdryer. A wetted surface, as the others say, is a big help.
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Thanks all - I'll go with the sections for large wings, using my usual warm distilled water with a drop of baby shampoo, which gives me a long working time by cutting initial adhesion and reducing the need for solvents.
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It's what is used to put reflective or dark film on car windows - or house windows.
I soak the decal via the usual method in this and then prep the surface using the same with a a broad flat brush - the water lays down and does not form drops, even on a highly glossy surface ( like glass ).
Using distilled water and baby shampoo introduces very few contaminants.
IIRC, the proportion is one drop baby shampoo per pint of water.
Google: window film baby shampoo
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Thanks Falcon, for the idea. I'll have to try that.
Cheers,
Ernie :)