forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Squiffy on October 28, 2014, 06:55:23 AM
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Evening chaps.
I've only recently bought this one but it's jumped the queue in the pile because I think I'm ready to have a go at my first resin kit.
I've had a look inside the box and it's all rather different to the usual injection-moulded plastic kits - no sprues, just parts on blocks of resin, some of which look rather fragile. ???
Any advice before I dive in?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/soddit36/soddit36102/dolphin.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/soddit36/media/soddit36102/dolphin.jpg.html)
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Very nice Squiffy, I will be looking forward to watching this build.
I have only built one resin kit so my experience is very limited, but one thing I found out is that the small parts are very fragile and can break very easily. I cut all my parts off the casting blocks with a razor saw, does a really nice, easy job, but be careful sanding, the dust from resin is not good stuff to get into your lungs, wear a dust mask.
Other members will probably be able to offer more advise than what I have.
Des.
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Having built 5 or 6 resin kits I confirm what Des already pointed out - razor saw and care with sanding!
Besides I would add these:
1. Take care of small bubbles frequently trapped in the elements. Almost every sanding reveals them, some test painting or using a surfacer helps a lot.
2. There is a nice trick for deformed elements (also frequently found in resin kits). Put them into hot water holding them in tweezers for 10 seconds or so, to make them warm - then you can easily bend them back to a correct shape. Sometimes these parts have a "shape memory" and after some time (even as long as a couple of days) they may deform again. Then a few sessions of warming up and correcting the geometry are necessary.
3. Buy a gel CA glue, it is not as quick as usual liquid one and lets 2-3 seconds for adjusting a proper position while glueing.
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Looking forward to your build :)
Terri
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I'm looking forward to this build, as well...I have a number of resin kits in the stash but haven't touched them as I don't seem to do well with CA adhesive. Thanks, Przemol, for the idea of gel.
Best of luck with it, Squiffy!
Cheers from NYC,
Michael
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Squiffy,
Looking forward to your first update. If you hold true to form it could be done before I see it 8)
RAGIII
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Thanks for the advice. I dislike wearing dust masks so I'll douse the sanding paper with water to keep the dust down.
I've got some cutting and sanding to do...
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/soddit36/soddit36104/Dolphin-002.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/soddit36/media/soddit36104/Dolphin-002.jpg.html)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/soddit36/soddit36104/Dolphin-001.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/soddit36/media/soddit36104/Dolphin-001.jpg.html)
I've read that some Dolphins had the Lewis guns relocated from the cockpit to the lower wings so I'm considering modelling this as such. Only the kit isn't intended do be so and therefore no mention is made of this in the instructions. I've searched Google but can't find a photo of a Dolphin with this installation - can anyone help, please?
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I am pretty sure, that there is a photo of such an installation in the Windsock Datafile. For a moment I was thinking of building that version but then went for Polish markings. (Mine was also a resin but from Choroszy). I will check my WD at home later tonight.
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(http://scilib.narod.ru/Avia/DogFight/images/182.jpg)
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That was quick, Bo ;)
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I'm good at google :)
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I'm glad someone is. ;D Thanks.
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I have just checked the WD. Not surprisingly, there is the same photo, which Bo googled-out.
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The fuselage halves together and the cockpit floor, seat, fuel tank, rudder pedals and joystick in place.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/soddit36/soddit36105/Dolphin-001.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/soddit36/media/soddit36105/Dolphin-001.jpg.html)
With the top on. The top wasn't a very good fit and required some sanding. I'm not entirely happy with it but it will have to do. There is no engine as such but the cylinder heads and rocker covers for both banks of the V8 are moulded as one part and fit between the fuselage and the engine cover. This too is not a good fit and I had to cut it in half and fit each seperately.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/soddit36/soddit36105/Dolphin-002.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/soddit36/media/soddit36105/Dolphin-002.jpg.html)
So far I'm not getting on well with this resin malarkey. :-\
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Hi squiffy,
before you remove any of the smaller items from the resin casting block, drop each piece into hot water for a few minutes.
Resin has a tendency to snap easier when cold.
I would use the kits struts as templates only
Roy
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In spite of the challenges, I think you're doing a brilliant job. The Dolphin is my favorite aircraft and I'm looking forward to seeing yours completed.
Cheers,
Bud
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Great start, Squiffy!
Chris
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Starting to take very nicely Squiffy, resin is not the easiest material to work with but you seem to be managing okay, looking forward to further updates.
Des.
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Squiffy,
Looking great in spite of your professed struggles 8)
RAGIII
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...I would use the kits struts as templates only...
Roy
Hmmm... fitting the struts was going to be the next job. I've just left the paint on the lower wings drying so came to have a look on here whilst it did.
What is the problem with the kit struts?
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he was just saying dont use the kit struts cuz resin is brittle and therefore the struts can be. many resin kit builders use other methods for struts and use the kits parts as a template to make the new parts. methods include use of brass strutz, contrail extruded strut material, squashing brass tube with a steel wire inserted then shaping with files. using wood as bamboo skewers or toothpick types to make struts.
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Ah, I see. I'll see how I get on with the kit struts first...
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IMHO brittleness of resin is not a problem for struts in 72nd scale. The kits are small and the load from the top wing is generally small. I admit that highly tightened structural rigging with stiff fishing line may be too dangerous. But if you ues an elastic thread as I do for rigging, nothing really happens. I have built some Choroszy resin kits (two Macchi M.5s, Lohner S30, Sopwith Dolphin), one Ardpol kit (Halberstadt Cl.IV), one TopGun (Friedrichshafen FF.49) and always used the kit struts. I encountered no problem with them. The key point is to have them straight. If they are pre-bent, then warming them up in hot water facititates bringing them back to correct geometry.
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I do use structural rigging, which, in this case, has proved neccessary.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/soddit36/soddit36107/d7-001.jpg) (http://s92.photobucket.com/user/soddit36/media/soddit36107/d7-001.jpg.html)
The 4 cabane struts are glued to the top rim of the cockpit and being that they are 4 seperate pieces do not offer much stability when fitting the top wings.
I didn't want to fit the interplane struts before adding the top wing as I could easily have misjudged the amount of (back) stagger needed so I glued the wing to the cabane struts to get the amount of stagger right.
Unfortunately, as there are no holes for any kind of positive location of the wing, it was twisted several degrees out of parallel to the lower wing but this was corrected by fitting 4 interplane struts (held in by tape) and pulling the wing round by tightening the rigging and gluing it in place. The struts were removed and replaced (glued in) one by one.
It all looks to be pretty well aligned now.
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Very good work.
Martin
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Looking very nice indeed, what I can see of the rigging it looks well done.
Des.
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Looking really good, Squiffy
Regards
Dave
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Outstanding Squiffy. Seems you are very good at correcting the alignment through your rigging process!
RAGIII
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Thanks, chaps. It's finished now and can be seen here - http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=3517.90
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Wow , your making really excellent progress , looking good so far !
Terri
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Lovely work on the Dolphin, Squiffy.
Best wishes
Nigel