forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Modelers Lounge => Time to relax => Topic started by: IanB on September 09, 2014, 10:50:38 AM
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Well, since my 2 current builds are on hold for parts, and I don't want to "start" anything new, I've decided to finally dig out the old Airfix kit that's been in my stash for over 30 years. I did make a start on it back then, but stopped due to lack of good references ( I was obviously not TOO dumb a kid!).
Since I now have a good few pics as referances and a pretty good build log to check up on from another modeller, I have made a new start on this one, and have spent the last 2 days cleaning up what I'd already done many years ago, and correcting the kit parts. I've got a fair bit done, but there are plenty more improvements needed before construction proper can begin, and that will probably wait until my Muromets is finished.
Here's where I am now:
The chassis: I've drilled out the front end, thinning the top and bottom parts of the chassis rails and extending the gap in the U frame further forward to where it should be...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35937348515_e7d89345d4_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4277/35937347865_957f4b51ce_c.jpg)
(since these pics were taken I've also removed the big doughnut that is supposed to represent the stearing rack mount).
The stearing column: The bevel gear end was way too big, so I removed it, cut off the plug on the top and the bevel gear housing, thinned the housing by over 1/2, replaced the shaft with 9/32nd tube, chamfered at one end to blend into the stearing column, and reattached the other bits, blending them in with Mr Dissolved Putty.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35937340895_c3290f4aed_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35896465096_0b79505d01_c.jpg)
I think the lower part of the bevel housing that was cut off the original may be a little small, but it'll do.
The firewall: I removed the moulded oil lines and the blank over the oil tank hole, the latter was replaced with card. The moulding for the throttle mounting was added from stock rod, glued together to get the right size, then sanded to shape. I added rod to the lower edge of the firewall where it meets the floor, then sanded it to the correct slanted profile to match the slope of the floor. 5 thou sheet has also been added to the rear of the firewall to give the correct smooth surface, and the flange around the edge. I also corrected the small lip on both upper corners which shouldn't be there.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/35937340405_53bbfa9801_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/35548994640_ce47eaae03_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35937347065_fc600f6276_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/35937340005_23c0176818_c.jpg)
The floor: the hashed steel moulding has been removed, and the floor now needs to be narrowed slightly at the front - the sloped part is only between the firewall edges, not running right up to the bodywork.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/35937349145_1d31d31c59_c.jpg)
The fuel tank: a start has been made on stripping the moulded detail, wire mesh has been ordered to replace it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35937348795_426fa163f9_c.jpg)
There are also some nuts missing on the firewall, I've ordered some and they're on their way!
This is turning out to be very enjoyable!
Any advice from car model builders will be welcome, it's over 25 years since I built one and it wasn't detailed!
Ian
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You are doing a splendid job so far Ian on a very ancient kit.
You may have already seen this but this was posted some time ago http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2590.0 by another Ian, you might want to contact him to share experiences he had while building this kit.
Des.
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I built this recently but the new-ish re-box.
I didn't go too much for corrections or extra detailing, but with a bit of work this can build into a great model.
If you ever read Airfix Model World magazine, there is a build review feature in the August 14 issue (not mine!) I did find it odd that the modeller made several detailing additions but kept the kit's horrible molded rubber bonnet straps!
Your work so far with the corrections and detailing is a league above mine. :)
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Thanks for the tip Ian.
I do have a link on my bookmarks to a very detailed build by a guy in (I think) California, but even he made some odd omissions - detailing all the brake cables etc but not removing and scratchbuilding the actuators moulded-on to the chassis rails for instance....
I do intend to correct and add as much detail as possible as this is one of my all-time favourite cars. The trouble will be in finding details of the precise car as they all seem to be a little different, so it may be a bit of a hybrid.....
Ian
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Good luck with this - I agree with you, I was the same finding conflicting photo refs online. Mind you, I wasn't going out and out for too much historical accuracy.
I never had the original 70's kit and a good job too as I wouldn't have done it justice as a child. However Airfix seem to expect a lot from the kit at this price. Going by what is available from other manufacturers I would say the new version is way over priced. Fortunately mine was a gift. I look at the radiator grille mesh as an example - an unevenly molded component with a solid white number decal....
Nevertheless, I get the feeling you'll be using the kit only as a baseline for your detailed build.
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Another day spent destroying Airfix's best efforts....
I took apart the engine (so most of what I'd done 30+ years ago has now been undone!) and opened up the gap that should be between the cylinder block and the valve gear drive train. Plastic stock has been added to fill the gaps left by opening that up and will be sanded to shape tomorrow.
The front part of the floor has been corrected, and the horns, carbs, and tail lights drilled out. I've also cleaned off all the detail on the fuel tank except the fuel line connections to prepare it for the mesh stone guards.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4326/35097449914_87eff1c09b_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4211/35128138633_399f83d5c5_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/35097449294_68638cc5f4_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/35128138203_29315162f3_c.jpg)
This is proving to be more work than I'd anticipated, but enjoyable - it's so big!
Ian
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Not too much to report today, I've spent most of it trying to fill all the ejector pin marks and sink holes - the chassis frame parts, suspension parts, and drivetrain are FULL of them! Also sanding down the major parts ready for paint.
I did get the engine back together and finished the mod to the front end. I added 5 thou sheet to the front and rear of the cylinder block to represent the plates that were bolted on, and removed the moulded on pipe along both sides.
I also started to modify the suspension leaf spring hangers. The rear ones are done - simply drilled and cut out the middle part to leave the two side plates. The front ones were totally wrong so I've removed them and will add scratchbuilt parts when I come to fit the suspension.
A quick dry-fit of the modified floor and firewall showed all ok there:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35128137663_bbf6476dbd_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35097448864_4663c33a10_c.jpg)
The current state of the engine:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4299/35128137363_338326865c_c.jpg)
Rear spring hangers, before and after:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/35097448584_fd96bdf377_c.jpg)
and the fuel tank ready for detailing:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4304/35097448034_4504b97045_c.jpg)
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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Excellent start, Ian! Man, that's a big model!
Cheers,
Bud
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You are making excellent progress so far Ian, your modifications are going to make a world of difference to this somewhat "basic" kit.
Des.
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I couldn't agree more. For me, the amount of ejector pin marks and flash in some very nasty places really put me off trying to improve the kit.
I am delighted to see, Ian, you have the patience (and the ability of course) to overcome the kit's many failings...,
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I've made a little more progress, waiting on my next delivery of resin nuts from Ted's Modeling Marketplace..... (the guy in my local hobby shop didn't even flinch when I asked him if he had resin nuts......) 8)
The blobs representing the cylinder block nuts and valve drive train plugs have been removed and replaced, and I've added the sump bolts, but may replace them with slightly smaller ones. I also clipped off the 6 inlet manifold bolts at each end of the manifold which were far too long - they should be flush with the manifold itself. The nuts will be replaced when my next order arrives.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35128136873_f38a98ea8d_c.jpg)
The kit mounting for the water pump is also wrong - it's too high and sits where the fan bracket should be, so I've added a new one based on what I can figure out from pics - it may not be 100% accurate but at least it's in the right place. That also left me free to add the fan base and bracket and I've started to fabricate a fan assembly. (pic to follow on that one).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35097447764_0407dd4491_c.jpg)
I'm still not sure about the shape and size of the sump, but without definite evidence of this car, it will stay as it is. Airfix couldn't be THAT far off, so I'm assuming that this early race car was different from later road versions.
Ian
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Outstanding work so far ! Your added detail will make a huge difference in the outcome!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
A little more done on this one, although my main problem seems to be finding a problem, referencing pics to find out what should be there, then noticing something else and getting sidetracked! I need to concentrate on fixing the problem I started with, and the moving on to the new one later....somehow I don't think that will happen!
I painted the firewall with Model Masters buffing Aluminium, then decided the inner part, which will be body colour, was too bad to paint (previous spraying with primer had "spat" and I couldn't get in too smooth it all out). So I removed the detail I'd added and cut a piece of 5thou card to drop in. The details were then replaced. I also corrected the central bracket mounting on the top edge which is a cutout on the kit and should be a raised part of the structure, and the bolt locations for the plating. The side ones were ok, but there was one missing on each upper corner (where the indents had been) and the top ones weren't spaced correctly. These have all been drilled ready for the bolts to be added when the painting's finished.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35097447034_2b37480bb7_c.jpg)
The engine now has some paint (again buffing aluminium), and the cylinder block and nuts/bolts/plugs have been painted. I have some .5mm aluminium dome nuts for the side and end plates which will be added after the painting is finished.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35097446584_7f783f1ce0_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35134757273_b9b1848e87_c.jpg)
The other recent work has been on the fuel tank. I've added the straps on each side which will hold the wire mesh side pieces, and made up the mounting brackets from stock rod/strip with pins added from brass rod to ensure a correct fit to the chassis.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4241/35128135473_be97a7cc1a_c.jpg)
I need to find a good match for the BRG, my first try is going to be Tamiya Imperial Japanese Army Green. It doesn't have to be exact as the colour varied a little from car to car, but it needs to be a very deep green so that colour might work.....
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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That is a nice looking engine! I may be wrong but I seem to recall somebody(Maybe Testors in their Model Master series), making BRG?
RAGIII
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Beautiful work on the engine Ian, it certainly is a huge model.
Des.
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The engine looks superb! The Testors BRG is a metallic color and may not be appropriate for the Bentley. Here are some Tamiya mixes for BRG:
8 x X-5 Green + 1 x X-4 Blue
or
8 x X-5 Green + 3 x X-1 Black
or
4 x X-5 Green + 1 x X-8 Light Yellow
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Humbrol make a British Racing Green in both enamel and acrylic, the enamel paint is No. 239.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JDxW7mL92yQ/VExuGfNy21I/AAAAAAAAPQ4/rdNq9iaSwiM/s640/Humbrol-Enamel-239-British-Racing-Green.jpg)
ZERO paints also make an airbrush ready British Racing Green specifically for automotive models, their website address is in the photo.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R8Rcqq0jzh4/VExuGfVDmDI/AAAAAAAAPQ8/GEorCTFrKeI/s330/brg%2520x%25201.jpg)
Hope this helps you find the correct colour your are after.
Des.
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Thanks Rob and Des.
I think the green/black mix might be worth a try. You can see from the pic just how dark this car is and most BRG paints target the later 60's shade as shown on the Lotus in Des' post. The Tamiya XF 70 I was thinking of using is also not black enough.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35555629530_5809646a8e_c.jpg)
Ian
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Besides thinking about paint colour, I also got a little more done today - I cut out the fuel tank side screens from wire mesh and added the strengthening fillets around the tank mounts, although I'm not sure that the CA glue I used will hold them, I'll find out later!
I wanted to get these and the lower /rear fuel tank screens done before painting the tank. I'll then fit them and paint the tank again. That should ensure there are no paint free "shadows" under the screens and straps that hold the rear screen in place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4235/35128134993_119c780fb6_c.jpg)
Thanks for looking in,
Ian
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I made an attempt at the final stone screen today, but I it'll have to be redone. 3 hours, but not wasted....at least I now have a better idea of how to go about it...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35135045383_9231d07462_c.jpg)
I think .6mm instead of .4mm for the frame, and I'll fit the mesh to the frame flat, then bend it to fit the tank....
Ian
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After another afternoon and two attempts, here's the final article:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4317/35896464496_02aae226cf_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/35097445944_2d8feaeaa9_c.jpg)
Perhaps some paint mixing tomorrow.....
Ian
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The mesh is looking really good Ian, but I'm anxious to see some paint on her.
Des.
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That makes two of us, Des!
I think I'll add the fittings to the side screens first so I can paint the insides, before putting it all together.
Ian
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Still no paint, but a little more progress on the sidescreens and the leaf springs...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/35097445254_87f701c4bd_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35128134563_dbd7f81beb_c.jpg)
Ian
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I decided today to start to tackle the most daunting part of this build - rewiring the wheels!
I had already spent a good while thinking about how best to go about it, so this morning I bit the bullet and went for it. Before I did anything, I used the kit parts to make a jig to hold the hub central and at the correct height relative to the rim, and marked the rim and hub so that they would align correctly.
My main problem was figuring out how to accurately drill the holes: should I make a stencil? If so, how? It would also have to be reuseable.... I decided in the end to use the kit parts as their own stencils.... I snipped off the spokes from the outer rim, leaving the stubs at the end, and used those as guides. I drilled each hole from the rim side, and at an angle, to allow for as straight a run as possible through the rim. Initially I only drilled part way through, then trimmed off the stubs and cleaned up the rim. After that I finished drilling through.
The hub was marked and drilled, one hole just each side of the mark, and correctly staggered front to back. Then it was a relatively simple job to cut small lengths of .020" steel wire and thread it..."relatively" simple being the operative word.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35570076770_2b41571f62_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35128133813_178d4e055c_c.jpg)
I must say, I'm very happy with the results, and even more so that I got it at the first attempt!
Now I know my method works, I'll take step-by-step pics of the next wheel as it's done and post them so that anyone contemplating spending a few days doing this can at least save themselves some of the hassle!
Ian
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Beautiful job on the wheel Ian, certainly looks a lot better than the kit supplied wheels. I'm sure that your wheel lacing tutorial will be greatly appreciated by the forum members, looking forward to seeing it.
Des.
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Beautiful! Questions, questions, questions... but they can wait until after your tutorial. Thanks!
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The wheel looks terrific! I'm also looking forward to your tutorial.
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OK Gents, grab a beer and sit back......
First, the jig -it's pretty basic. A piece of stiff plastic card stock (about 2mm) with a hole drilled to accept a length of 2mm (.080") rod. I placed the wheel on the rod and pushed it down so that the rim was on the card, then cut the back off the rod and glued it in place. This made sure that the hub was at the correct height relative to the rim. A few pieces of .010" card were added around the spindle to take up the slack and stop it wobbling as the hub was not flush with the card. With the wheel sat on the spindle I then glued 4 pieces of thick rod to the card, pushed up tight against the rim, to hold it in the correct place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35097444894_f2d1acb388_c.jpg)
Next step was to mark the rim and hub to ensure correct alignment. (I brushed some white paint on first to make it easier to see the marks). The first mark is any one of the pairs of spokes where they meet the hub (the larger hub mark in the pic). Next, mark the rim opposite this mark, on both sides of the hub, to ensure correct alignment (notice that the rim marks are between the spokes). Then mark the outer ends of the two spokes that start at your hub marking - one I marked "top" and one "bottom". These two marks should be the third spoke either side of your rim datum mark.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35570076760_6a50e91a98_c.jpg)
You're now ready to cut the moulded spokes out, but make sure you leave the nipples at the rim - these will be your "stencil" for drilling the holes! Here's one I prepared earlier..... (sorry, I've been waiting years to say that - "Blue Peter" fans will understand))
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35128133073_2bb4550665_c.jpg)
I am going to use .015" (.38mm) wire, so I used a .018" drill bit to drill the holes for the spokes. Drill from the rim side (the back) and make sure you don't drill perpendicular to the rim - for the top (inner) row the bit should point clockwise, for the back row, anti-clockwise. This will ensure that the spokes slide in easily and don't bow, which they will if the holes are perpendicular to the rim.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35097444184_ab37dfa979_c.jpg)
I didn't drill all the way through at this point, and here's why: Once you've drilled all the holes (make sure they are deeper than the nipples on the rim!) you need to remove the nipples and clean up the rim. There is a nasty mould line there that also needs to be removed.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35959017335_c3ef6bae5a_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35128132063_7805fdda34_c.jpg)
This will of course fill up the holes you just drilled, so now you can go ahead and finish drilling through.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4323/35097443764_b639cf5cdf_c.jpg)
You're now about 2 1/2 hours in.... time to drill the hub: If you're looking at the edge of the hub ready to drill, the top row should be slightly to the right of the marks you made previously, with the bottom row slightly left. Drill these holes perpendicular to the hub edge.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35896465576_6f1e636bb9_c.jpg)
Once that's done, the hard work is over - time to start lacing! Bend one end of each spoke to about 45 degrees to fit into the hub holes.
Start with your reference marks, then add the bottom row all the way around - they will fit into every other hole around the rim, make sure that you are following your reference mark and fitting the bottom row of the hub into the bottom row of the rim - notice from the earlier pics that the rim holes are staggered! After 6 or so, the hub will stay in position. (I removed the wheel from the jig to slide each spoke through the rim from below, then just slid it back on to the jig to fix the spoke to the hub with a tiny dab of CA gel on the spoke end).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4323/35097443364_00e9eb146e_c.jpg)
About 5 hours after you started (assuming you used a pin vice like I did) you'll be finished! Half of one wheel done!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/35896464016_6b6341b856_c.jpg)
As you can see, the second wheel (with the thinner wire) is much more to scale, so I shall rewire the first one, and stick with the .015" wire for the rest.
Time for a beer!
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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Thank you, much appreciated.
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Amazing work on those wheels Ian! The screen and leaf springs are also awesome!
RAGIII
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Thank you Ian for the wheel lacing tutorial, this will be very helpful.
Des.
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A couple of notes to add to the earlier post:
You will need two jigs - the front wheels have a larger hole for the axle than do the rear and spare wheels. I found that .100" (2.5mm) rod with a couple of small strips of .010" (.25mm) strip on opposite sides kept the front wheels snug on the jig.
Don't glue the spokes into the rim until all spokes are fitted. Then add a dab of liquid CA to secure them in the rims, clamp them to the jig, and when it's dry, snip off the ends with end snips.
For the outer set of spokes, I marked everything the same way.
The hubs are too big, so after marking, trimming and cleaning up, I glued them to the rear hubs and left them overnight to dry. They were then placed on the jigs I'd used for the rear set of spokes and sanded down to the same diameter as the rear hubs. They were then drilled for the spokes.
Hole number 700 is finished! No more drilling! (yes that is 700 - 70 spokes per wheel, 5 wheels!)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35789245932_270b6a0d31_c.jpg)
Here is the set of 5 wheels, all drilled, with the front hubs fitted and sanded, and the front rims fitted. I will now play with some paint mixes, paint the wheels as they are, then fit the front row of spokes.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35937405805_2bd973d177_c.jpg)
I need another beer....or two! :o
Ian
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WOW, Very impressive!!
RAGIII
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The biggest problem I'm coming up against with working on an unfamiliar subject, in an unfamiliar scale, is planning!
I thought I was about ready to start getting some paint on this, but I then realised that I had more work to do on the firewall, steering column, and leaf springs. I added the nuts on the leaf spring shackles, and then decided that I needed a different approach to the firewall so that I didn't have an untreatable joint when I put it all together. I therefore cut the front part of the floor off, and attached it to the firewall, added some stock sheet to cover the joins, and filled and sanded as necessary. Much better!
I then decided I wasn't happy with the part I'd added for the throttle bracket mounting, so I removed it and remade it, slightly bigger. I'm now happy with that and have redone the aluminium paintwork. Now I am not happy with the circular blanking plate for the fuel lines etc so I'll repaint that later!
The petrol and oil header tanks have been added, as well as a new steering column mounting bracket on the rear of the firewall. The end bolts have been added to the steering column and a little more clean up done on that too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/35549075570_dd2d60c1d6_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4282/35805335781_fb42270c01_c.jpg)
Finally I made up the remaining 140 spokes needed and have prepared them for painting...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4304/35805336011_c636d3848d_c.jpg)
I'm hoping that by painting the spokes first, all that will be needed when the wheels are complete is a little touch up......we'll see.......
Thanks for watching....any pics or details of the fuel and oil lines and where they run would be more than welcome....
Ian
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OK not politically correct but all I can say is Damn!, that's a lot of spokes!!
RAGIII
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It's more PC than the word I used! ;)
Ian
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I would have to do this one spoke at a time because if I viewed them all in a pile as your photo shows, it would probably kill my enthusiasm for the project.
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Rob, that's the method I used for the inside of the wheels, which have 42 spokes each. I want to get a coat of paint on the front spokes (only 28 per wheel) so that there are no shadows, so I cut and bent them all first.....it does look a little daunting!
Ian
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Slow but steady.....
I've put a wash on the engine to tone it down a bit and make it look a little more used - just some pastels applied with a damp brush and worked until there were no more streaks or brush marks. Also painted some of the ancillaries, (pipework and such), which still need a wash to weather them a little.
Here's one of the magnetos:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4299/35789665042_3960eb0379_c.jpg)
I then decided that my interpretation of the water pump mount was wrong so pulled that off, cleaned the area up and made a new mount - which also meant I had to remake the pump outlet pipe as I'd shortened it to fit my modified mounting point...the inlet will have to wait until I have the radiator mounted and can figure out the shape and length.
I also figured out (I think) how the oil pump is mounted and will work on constructing that next and adding it to the rear of the firewall before I paint that piece. The hole in the rear upper centre of the firewall (for wiring) has also been cut out.
I did actually try to make a start on painting, and started masking the aluminium parts on the front firewall face but it peeled the aluminium paint off so I'll have to rethink that, too!
Just to show myself that I have been making progress, I dry fitted the engine, gearbox and firewall.....the gearbox needs a shaft added to the side for the shift lever, which means a hole in the floor, etc, etc.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/35805335411_92cd6d4d67_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4241/35549075290_6eb81060d1_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/35549074980_fd635f84a9_c.jpg)
Apart from that, I've spent a lot more time trying to find more pics and details. I came upon a goldmine of parts pics at Vintage Bentley Parts Ltd, which has helped a lot on figuring out how the pedals were mounted...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35918809166_c383d81620.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/35918809136_f419d64d51.jpg)
So... the plan....make and fit the oil pump, brake compensator shaft, and brake pedals, and get some paint on it all! We'll see how that pans out.....
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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It appears that you will have modified or replaced every single part of the kit before you finish the model. I do that too, but usually only in the process of correcting my own mistakes. Thanks for sharing your build notes and photos. I see Revell has announced a 1/24 scale kit of this car. I may have to get one.
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You are making some great progress with this one Ian, the magneto is superb and what you have done with the engine looks excellent, the pedals look amazing. Looking forward to seeing more progress with this great looking model.
Des.
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Thanks Des, but those pedals are the real thing - I can only hope mine come close!
Ian
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A little more progress....as stated earlier, working with an unfamiliar subject leads to planning problems!
I decided that because of the way the leaf springs and front cross member are attached (requiring a lot of filling and sanding), I should add those parts before spraying the chassis. So the last few days have been spent building new spring hangers, attaching the front cross member to the springs, and adding the remaining leaf spring shackles and nuts. I'm now debating whether to add the front wheel backing plates or not, as they are in two halves and will no doubt need a little fettling of the gaps too.....
The front spring hanger brackets were carved out of 3mm x 6mm plastic rod. Those were then drilled and two pieces of 1.57mm aluminium tube, and .51mm brass rod were cut to fit as the central mounting pins. The hangers are brass strip, drilled at one end for the mounting pins, filed round at that end, and cut to length. Slits were cut in the leaf spring ends and the brass hangers were CA'd in place. I then added the rear part of the hanger brackets from plastic card cut to shape.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35805335191_c1640a5fdc_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/35097480184_a5341662dd_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35549074300_8f133f1889_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/35805334861_e427c0b876_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35549074760_bb02216529_c.jpg)
Slow progress, but it's coming on....I hope to get the suspension attached and all the filling and cleaning up done over the next couple of days, then finally I should be able to start putting some paint on!
Ian
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Excellent treatment of those leaf springs Ian. I did not have the patience to make similar refinements. The seam/flash down the middle of the leaf spring is a pain to remove as that by default takes away the detail on the wrappings! I won't even start on the ejector pin marks, nor the components where the two mold halves don't match up precisely.
I'm interested to see how you treat the chromed components - apologies if this has been covered before?
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Nice work on the leaf springs Ian, the U bolts look excellent and the spring attachment points are looking good.
Des.
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Outstanding updates! All of your details are certainly making this a Stunner!
RAGIII
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I've finally finished lacing the wheels!
All that's needed now is to file down the spoke ends and a quick blow over to touch up the paint. While I'm doing that I'll put some paint on the chassis too...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35937403605_da5095d46e_c.jpg)
Ian
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Absolutely incredible work on those wheels!
RAGIII
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I had intended getting the chassis painted today, but I found more things that needed doing....so I filled the mounting holes for the headlamp brackets and narrowed the ones for the brake actuators, then added some bolt heads to the top of the chassis frame, replaced the moulded blobs on the front chassis spacer with resin nuts/pieces of .04x.04mm rod, and modified and fitted the horn brackets (and added more nuts!) NOW, I think I can get some paint on it......
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4230/35937400255_6b7e715e72_c.jpg)
Ian
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Result, finally!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/35549073520_01639bf9f3_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4322/35937403125_ca7920675a_c.jpg)
The firewall is going to have to be stripped and redone, I'm not at all happy with it. I'll remove all the plastic card that has been fitted and replace it so I have a good base to paint over. Other than that, a little clean up and sanding, then a second coat....hopefully it won't take as long as the first!
Ian
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Great to see some colour finally getting applied, a good shade of BRG Ian.
Des.
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I've finally made a little more progress, mainly on the firewall which is now ready for paint again! I replaced the front and rear panels with .015" card instead of .005" which I'm much happier with, and shortened the moulding for the throttle pedal bracket a little. I also widened the hole for the dynamo drive, and that has somehow ended up off centre! Nothing I can do about it now though, fortunately it's not too far off!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4326/35937402655_7c983701da_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35549071460_c303c43967_c.jpg)
I also added some detail to the front body frame/scuttle, but I'm not sure if there should be more gaps routed out to lighten the frame, my pics are a little dark here....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4237/35549072480_9f85424c8a_c.jpg)
The last item I've been working on is the fuel tank, which now has the side screens on it and is ready for final painting.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35549073010_4cd56d138a_c.jpg)
The chassis frame has been sanded down a little where needed and it is all now ready for final painting. Once that is done I can start installing the engine and firewall and getting on to some more fun stuff!
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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Great to see you back onto this one Ian, the fuel tank look excellent, looking forward to seeing it painted along with the chassis frame.
Des.
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What you are doing with this old kit is simply incredible. Your modelling skills certainly extend beyond WW1 and are clearly of the highest standards.
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What you are doing with this old kit is simply incredible. Your modelling skills certainly extend beyond WW1 and are clearly of the highest standards.
I agree completely!
RAGIII
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Some really, really great work here! A friend of mine recently made a blog post entitled "In Praise of Older Kits". This one really IS old, but you're doing some great work on this one to bring it to life IMHO.
Warren
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Since I've been snowed in all day and it's still blowing hard outside, I got a bit more done today.
I actually managed to correct the hole I'd drilled in the bulkhead by lining it with 3/8 tube and redrilling. The original was close enough that the thickness of the tube was enough to enable me to move it over about 1mm. It is now in the correct place, central on the bulkhead! I also added another hole for the fuel lines, which will be covered by a "metal" plate, and mountings for the fuel tank. I have no idea if these are correct, but it had to be supported by something so I added a flange around its edge, and a strap at the rear which will attach to the scuttle.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/35097479384_82fd194711_c.jpg)
The radiator also got some attention. The attachment pins for the front were shortened by 2mm to move it back and leave room for a proper wire mesh grille over the front, which has been added, and the bottom edge has been trimmed with one piece of .015" card, cut and trimmed to shape. I think it's a big improvement!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4262/35937399865_85399d6959_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35937401085_8ee49d5f87_c.jpg)
Ian
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Sweet
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Excellent work on the radiator mesh Ian! What did you use?
For such a large and visible part, the offering by Airfix of a mesh molded directly into the solid radiator shape really isn't good enough - and is a bugger to paint!
On mine, I scraped off the molded mesh and replaced it with a plastic mesh, cut and pre-painted from a large-ish sieve. I chose plastic because it was much cheaper and also because it was easier to flatten. Sourcing a mesh good enough was tricky though.
The chrome parts are a nightmare, aren't they?
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Thanks Ian, the mesh is from The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd, #22 mesh with 0.94mm aperture and 0.22mm wire diameter. I will use this for the fuel tank, headlamp and supercharger screens, and will use #60 mesh (0.32mm aperture and 0.11mm wire diameter) for the windscreen and carb screens.
I was going to (finally) get another coat of paint on the chassis and bulkhead today, (actually I was going to do it yesterday!) but the snowstorm put paid to anything yesterday, and today I noticed another major flaw with the kit - there is a chassis member missing! Actually there could be 2 missing, but the one at the rear, right under the rear of the body, just in front of the fuel tank, is visible, the other isn't. So, out came the plastic stock and the offending member was added...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35896502956_31fd563b32_c.jpg)
While that was drying, I decided to add the missing part of the gearbox (the shaft holding the gear lever itself) - I messed that up by adding the final piece too soon, so no pic of that just yet!
Maybe I'll get some paint on tomorrow.....
Ian
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Still no more paint, but I haven't been idle.
I've added the shaft to the gearbox - it won't be detailed any further as it's going to be hidden between the floor and the belly pan anyway..
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35896502566_0c358ee1b1_c.jpg)
I've also added some copper "safety wire" to the inlet manifold nuts and the plugs on the front shaft, and done some detailing on the two small additions on the inlet manifold - I'm not sure what they are, maybe some sort of pressure release valves?
I thinned the outer rims on the inside using an old dentist's drill bit, filed down the inner core until it was narrow enough to add a small slice of plastic tube, then cut slots around the edge. I also drilled out the central shaft. I'm waiting on some more resin nuts and I'll add 2 inside each along with "safety wire" when they arrive.
The final addition to the engine so far is the drive for the tachometer on the camcover nosecap and four small nuts...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35097480564_b517512979_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4253/35549076470_cc1a297410_c.jpg)
Unfortunately I need to respray the chromed waterway covers before going much further, then I'll add all the dome nuts for those......
Ian
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The engine is looking superb Ian, all the extra detailing is making a huge difference.
Des.
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Since I've hunkered down for our latest blizzard - we're under a blizzard warning on Cape Cod from 7pm Sat night until 7am Sun morning - I've managed to get quite a bit done today!
The first task was another coat of green on the chassis, bulkhead and fuel tank. After that I concentrated on the engine.
I decided against repainting the waterjacket covers, instead I bought some Bare Metal Foil. It's extremely thin, and self adhesive. It goes on very easily and shows ALL detail through it so the surface needs to be well prepared. It trims up very easily, just the weight of a scalpel with a new blade is enough, no pressure needs to be applied. I'm very happy with how that looks now.
I then added all the dome nuts. These came from RB Motion and are well worth the money - about $60 for as many as I needed here! I managed to knock off and lose one of the spark plugs which is a little annoying. Luckily it's under the exhaust manifold so I'll replace it with piece of plastic rod and it shouldn't be too noticeable.
Once all that was done I could start adding some of the rest of the detail parts: magnetos, pressure relief valves (?), oil filler, crankcase vent, flywheel, water pump and starter motor are now fitted. The inlet for the water pump will be added when the radiator is in place so I can get it to fit properly - I can't believe Airfix don't include it in the kit! I'll add the fan (also not in the kit!) when the engine is mounted in the chassis.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/35097503174_82db7ed502_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35128179123_0fd7e49747_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/35097502504_05ca0ae29c_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35937406155_ce84668830_c.jpg)
I'm hoping I will only need a clearcoat now on the paintwork, then I can start getting stuff added to the chassis!
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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Wow Ian, that engine looks spectacular, the bare metal foil is great and really looks the part. The RB Motion nuts may be a little expensive but like you say, well worth the expense. Looking forward to seeing this beautiful engine sitting in the chassis.
Des.
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Thanks, Des. I must admit it's nice to be working in such a large scale, it certainly makes detailing a lot easier!
Couldn't get out today even if I'd wanted to, with a blizzard blowing most of the day. I finally got out around 3:30pm to shovel the drive...again! This is getting old!
So...modelling all day! Not much to show for it, but I got a fair bit more done.
The coolant pipework had a very rudimentary flange moulded onto it, which I decided wouldn't clean up well enough, and the kit part is also missing a drain plug. So I cut it at the joint with the front mount. A piece of 2mm rod , a resin nut for the drain plug, and a cut down propeller flange from an Airfix kit (you know the piece...the circular bit with a hole in that gets glued to the back of the prop shaft so it turns) made the new flange - it fitted perfectly over the 2mm rod! A few more resin nuts and I have a much more presentable coolant pipe.
The piece with the modification:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35896517556_4938144660_c.jpg)
and painted and fitted:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4285/35128179483_b4ff357f6a_c.jpg)
I started working on the filler caps, separating the handles, and replacing the mechanism part. I'll refit the handles later. I also removed the oil filler and separated the handle. I have no idea if it's correct but at least it looks better than having a handle moulded onto the cap! A couple of nuts were added to the starter motor as attachment points for the power leads, and a bit of a wash applied to tone it all down a little.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4285/35097501804_b1143e642f_c.jpg)
Finally, I decided to take a look at the bonnet panels with a view to thinning them down. I got a nasty surprise....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/35128178853_d83f73e850_c.jpg)
Hopefully some hot water and putting weight on them will sort it out....
Ian
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Great work Ian...
The bonnet panel warping looks unfortunate, how did that happen? They were some of the few parts in this kit that I was reasonably happy with...
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That is unfortunate, hopefully you'll be able to sort this out.
Warren
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I tried to straighten those panels and totally ruined them. New ones on order from Airfix...
Ian
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Sorry to hear of your misfortune Ian, hope Airfix come good with the new parts reasonably quick, I believe they have a good reputation for customer service.
Des.
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A little more to add but nothing major. I've been cleaning up the fuel tank and bulkhead for final painting, and in between I've got some details done. The radiator grille has been masked and painted, but I still have to paint the shell. I've also added some detail on the header tank, and made a dynamo.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35831078381_8a608f2ed3_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35831078481_be1e996c9e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35922217756_04cf9a4663_c.jpg)
Thanks for looking in.
Ian
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I managed to get the stone screen fitted to the fuel tank today, just need to finish off the straps. Then, since I went to the local modelling club this evening, I put the Bentley together as a dry run.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/35937343255_80d001f178_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4310/35574870980_7d9da1450f_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/35793106902_d21d731420_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35574870890_b60fe30e69_c.jpg)
I'm finally getting close the the stage where I can start to see real progress, and put all the small sub-assemblies together!
Ian
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It great to see all the mechanical components sitting in the chassis Ian, you are doing a superb job.
Des.
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A constructive afternoon today, working on the bulkhead. I got the dynamo mounted and the bracket made and fitted, added the heat shield for the electrical box, and added more nuts!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/35937343255_80d001f178_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35964225795_f3177e4e33_c.jpg)
Ian
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It's looking really great Ian.
Warren
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Thanks, Des and Warren. i must admit, for something so far out of my comfort zone it's a fun build - I'm enjoying all the detailing!
I finally attached the engine, gearbox and fuel tank to the chassis today, so while that was drying, I decided to take a closer look at the supercharger and carbs. I added more nuts on the carb and supercharger exhaust mountings, and then added some details to the carbs in the form of the first parts of the throttle linkages, and the dust screens - this after spending most of the afternoon searching the web for good pictures of the SU HVG5 carbs - if anyone has a pic of a pair of these mounted with the linkages it would be greatly appreciated!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35964225315_aef8f9862e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35964225095_2d84cbc2bd_c.jpg)
I also put some nuts on the dynamo drive....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/35964225045_50680f0ce2_c.jpg)
Thanks for looking!
Ian
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Beautiful job on the supercharger and carbies Ian.
Des.
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Ian, between this and your other builds, you are just a modeling machine sir! Automobiles are outside of my comfort zone as well, but a machine like this Bentley is not far removed from our subject of choice on this forum, at least that's how I see it. It's just another aeroplane, but with no wings. ;)
Great work, it looks great!
Warren
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A little more progress to post.... I started adding details to the carbs, but I'm not going to go further just yet as I've emailed a museum in the hope of getting pics of their car so I can do them properly. If they don't reply I'll just stick with whatever I make up, at least it will be better than nothing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35964227485_06be9b73ec_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35124258634_4e617264d5_c.jpg)
I have also added the drivetrain and rear end, adding the shackles I'd made previously, and more resin nuts! I discovered that I've fitted the left rear spring slightly off - it's sloped very slightly inwards, so the differential is centred with reference to the chassis rails, not the springs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/35793654222_97f4bc530e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35964228075_0d257365bf_c.jpg)
This job would have been a lot easier if I'd bought aluminium rod for the shackles instead of using the brass rod I had, and painting it.....lesson learned!
Finally, I've made a start on the clutch and brake pedals, and the mounting shaft. Airfix kindly provide the mounting points on the chassis rails, but once again, for no apparent reason, don't actually supply the shaft and pedals - they do provide little plastic blobs that bear no resemblance to the pedals - would it really have been too much effort to have done them properly?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4315/35124259244_326990d8c8_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35964227755_2ca38bf748_c.jpg)
I was hoping to make the pedals in one piece but the curve at the top end proved too much. Still, it should make it easier to put it all together if I add the end later.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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I now have the pedals finished, with the exception of the actual foot pads at the end, which I will add when the bulkhead is in place. I've also finished the brake compensator.
There are still 4 more actuators to make for the handbrake and front brakes, but there's not much more I can do on the brake system until I get the shock absorbers built and fitted, so that will be the next major job (I'm trying to find a good and reasonably priced source for the decals for those). That and making a start on the engine detailing, when I finally receive the hose fittings I ordered in September! I've been told they'll be here soon, so that should be a job for this weekend.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35124258994_e4a676f380_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/35124258074_72936b511b_c.jpg)
Ian
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A little more done - throttle pedal and mounting, and the linkages for the front brakes.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35793651082_be77aa01cc_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/35964226215_50a3054885_c.jpg)
Thanks for looking in....
Ian
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Another day spent correcting Airfix's worst efforts..... the front shocks are almost done.
I trimmed the mountings, thinned (drastically!) the shock arms to leave just one of the 3 that should be there, then added the others from card. The upper should be 3 leaves and the lower, 2.
The front shocks are almost done, next up are the 4 rear ones.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4320/35124258834_cba51440c8_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35124258504_de5efc69f3_c.jpg)
They're far from perfect but I may just have to accept them as they are since improving them may not be possible without making them too weak.
Ian
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Well, I've jumped in the deep end and ordered a Micro-Mark photo-etch kit. I decided that I really needed to do the shocks properly, and I've had plenty of previous builds where I wished for PE details so.....now there will be no excuse!
I have no experience in anything like this, nor in the graphics programs needed to prepare the artwork, so it'll be a steep learning curve! I messed around this morning with my laptop's photo editor and prepared the decals needed for the friction dampers, and then spent a couple of hours this afternoon just trying to figure out how to get the basic shape of one shock arm! Once I'd found a way to do that the rest came fairly quickly. Here's what I have for an afternoon's work....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35964225495_bec083ec5f_c.jpg)
I think I still need to add the connectors to hold all the parts together but I'll wait and read the instructions before I go any further!
I may have opened a rather large can of worms......
Ian
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I've been keeping a daily watch on your build and all the little bits and pieces you have added are all looking extremely good.
I will be very interested in hearing what your thoughts are on the PE kit you purchased from Micro-Mark, I was only looking at it yesterday on their website.
Des.
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Thanks Des,
I'll be sure to keep you posted on how it goes!
Ian
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I've used the micromark PE system with some success, happy to offer any advice you might need. Practice a few times and you will get the hang of it. Heed the recommended borders for the various stages even though they might seem wasteful of material -- they are given for a reason, as you will eventually discover :)
The trickiest part by far is the actual etching stage -- it's hard to judge how much the acid is really eating (the photo resist blocks what you can see to a certain extent). Try to make the parts on your fret as similar as possible in terms of border area, sprues etc because getting it to etch evenly is kind of tricky and if you have some really large holes and some really small ones, the small details tend to get obliterated while you are trying to get the large areas to completely etch thru.
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Thanks for the heads up Bo, I'll make sure I pay attention!
Not much in the way of progress lately as I've been concentrating on the bulkhead details. That is done as far as is needed at the moment, which means the next milestone has been reached - the bulkhead has now been fitted to the chassis.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4309/35964226555_130cd95ed4_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/35937344855_d7b9e769a1_c.jpg)
I also spent much of this morning making the clamps for the intake plumbing from the blower....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4320/35576511360_92a699cb4b_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35125514844_63bc69d691_c.jpg)
I'm pleased with how that's turned out, especially as it was one of those "I'll do it later" (ie. how the hell do I do that?) jobs, now thankfully out of the way! I used thin plastic strip wrapped around the trunking, then carved 12 small pieces of 1mm square rod to represent each end of the screw clamp and glued those in place. 0 .4mm aluminium rod was added for the rods, and more resin nuts - I only added the 3 at the front of the clamps, and one under the tie rod.
Starting to look like something now!
Thanks for looking in,
Ian
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Looking fantastic Ian, having the firewall fixed in place certainly was a big achievement but every little step is adding huge strides to the build, looking forward to seeing your next progress shot, I love that engine :) :)
Des.
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Here's a little update...work now is fairly slow due to the detail, but each added piece makes a huge difference. I've added all the foot pedals and the brake linkage to the compensator shaft, and started on the engine wiring and plumbing....
I had to remove the part on the compensator shaft that the brake rod attaches to as I made it too short and the rod fouled the chassis. A new part was made and the rod is now straight and clear of the chassis rails.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4263/35937344435_8af5b9a60c_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35576510750_72e789b494_c.jpg)
That's it for tonight, I have a 5am start tomorrow. See you all later!
Ian
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It is always great to see the electrics and the plumbing start to be added to the engine and firewall, these details really bring the model to life.
Des.
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Got the other side of the ignition done, after an afternoon of wrapping tiny wires with strips of masking tape....not too sure about it, but I think it'll do...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4294/35125515234_45c735227a_c.jpg)
Ian
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I started work on the throttle and advance/retard linkages today. The cross shafts are 0.020" and 0.030" rod, to allow for smaller diameters for the rest of the links.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/35125514554_6d5d317c9f_c.jpg)
I also made the cooling fan, but can't fit that until I have attached the ends of the oil lines running along the side of the cylinder block - which requires knowing where they go!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35937344195_642a9218c8_c.jpg)
I'm still not too sure that the fan blades are correct - they just look too long....still thinking about that one...
Ian
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Nearly done with the carb linkages now. The choke mechanism is just resting in place and will be removed for painting before it's installed. I used aluminium tube for the main control rods, with .030 plastic rod drilled out and slipped over it for the brass bushes on the butterflies, these will also be painted tomorrow. The small circular pieces are from a sheet of 1:72 photo etch WWI prop hubs - the perfect size, and the holes are already there!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35576511020_09622af84b_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4303/35125515684_b4f95e2ba8_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35125517204_b2fb3ee0e4_c.jpg)
Once the choke is fitted, I'll add the wiring for the mags and fan, the throttle linkage from the pedal, and then the steering column, with the rest of the linkages...
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
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Looking better and better each time I come for a visit, well done Ian.
Des.
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Hi Ian
Today there was a Bentley Blower at The Vintage Aviator Ltd flying day at Hood Aerodrome, Masterton (NZ). Here are some photos that may be of interest. If the car is there again tomorrow I can get some more of specific areas if you are interested.
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030925.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030812.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030846.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030836.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030831.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030858.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030857.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030854.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030853.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030850.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030849.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030844.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030843.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030842.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030840.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030838.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030837.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030835.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030833.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030824.jpg)
(http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Bentley%20Blower%20car/P1030876.jpg)
Cheers
James
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The poppy is a nice touch. beautiful.
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Fantastic pics, Jamo, thanks!
If the car is there again tomorrow, could you do a little delving for me? I need to know where the two copper lines running alongside the cylinder block attach at the front ends, and where and how the fuel line to the carbs passes through the bulkhead (or floor?). This car also has the small oil tank behind the bulkhead, (although it appears to be a converted blower, it was a tourer in 2007) - I'm tending to think that was for a primer pump mounted on the dash and that the lines seen passing through the bulkhead are low pressure oil lines fed by this pump......
Thanks a million,
Ian
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Been a little while since I checked in, My apologies! You are continuing to do an absolutely bang up job on this one! Just beautiful and superb detailing!
RAGIII
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Thanks James for posting the magnificent photos, I'm sure that they are going to help Ian out tremendously.
Des.
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Fantastic pics, Jamo, thanks!
If the car is there again tomorrow, could you do a little delving for me? I need to know where the two copper lines running alongside the cylinder block attach at the front ends, and where and how the fuel line to the carbs passes through the bulkhead (or floor?). This car also has the small oil tank behind the bulkhead, (although it appears to be a converted blower, it was a tourer in 2007) - I'm tending to think that was for a primer pump mounted on the dash and that the lines seen passing through the bulkhead are low pressure oil lines fed by this pump......
Thanks a million,
Ian
Hello Ian
Sadly the Rolls Royce & Bentley club people carried on with their travels on Sunday without returning to Hood Aerodrome, so no more photos. One of our fellow forum members, Tony Haycock, may be able to help you further. Tony is extremely knowledgeable about vintage cars (he is the editor of Classic Driver magazine) and he was also there at Hood Aerodrome and may have some more info/photos.
Here is a link to useful reference info regarding this particular motor car:
http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2008/6/27/articles-peterson-45-litre-blower-bentley-a-legend-reborn-211
The car has changed ownership since article was written.
I have processed a few more photos to the Photobucket album here:
http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/Jamo_kiwi/library/Bentley%20Blower%20car?sort=9&page=1
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Thanks Jamo, much appreciated!
Ian
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Fantastic pics, Jamo, thanks!
If the car is there again tomorrow, could you do a little delving for me? I need to know where the two copper lines running alongside the cylinder block attach at the front ends, and where and how the fuel line to the carbs passes through the bulkhead (or floor?). This car also has the small oil tank behind the bulkhead, (although it appears to be a converted blower, it was a tourer in 2007) - I'm tending to think that was for a primer pump mounted on the dash and that the lines seen passing through the bulkhead are low pressure oil lines fed by this pump......
Thanks a million,
Ian
Hello Ian
Sadly the Rolls Royce & Bentley club people carried on with their travels on Sunday without returning to Hood Aerodrome, so no more photos. One of our fellow forum members, Tony Haycock, may be able to help you further. Tony is extremely knowledgeable about vintage cars (he is the editor of Classic Driver magazine) and he was also there at Hood Aerodrome and may have some more info/photos.
Here is a link to useful reference info regarding this particular motor car:
http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2008/6/27/articles-peterson-45-litre-blower-bentley-a-legend-reborn-211
The car has changed ownership since article was written.
I have processed a few more photos to the Photobucket album here:
http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/Jamo_kiwi/library/Bentley%20Blower%20car?sort=9&page=1
Hi Ian (and Jamo)
The car we saw at the weekend isn't the one in the article. The car in the story is a look-alike, built on a Rolls-Royce chassis. The car Jamo photgraphed is all Bentley 4 1/2 litre. It was converted to "Blower" spec in the UK by a firm which has restored more than one of the orignal 50 "Blowers" built, with final assembly and finishing done in New Zealand.
This is an exact copy in evvery respect of the 1930 no. 9 car from the Le Mans 24 hours, right down to some of the modifications made to the car at the track for the race (like the cut-outs in the l/h bonnet side and top of the scuttle.
I will see what my photos show and if they don't answer your questions, I will e-mail the owner for you
Cheers
Tony
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Hi Tony,
That would be wonderful, thanks! I've emailed BDC in the UK and New England and received no replies, I've even written to Ralph Lauren who owns the no 8 car and as yet have not received a reply. Any info on the oil and fuel plumbing, and details behind the bulkhead, would be very helpful indeed!
Ian
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Hi Tony,
That would be wonderful, thanks! I've emailed BDC in the UK and New England and received no replies, I've even written to Ralph Lauren who owns the no 8 car and as yet have not received a reply. Any info on the oil and fuel plumbing, and details behind the bulkhead, would be very helpful indeed!
Ian
The oil tank on the bulkhead is an auxilliary supply to the sump. If the oil pressure was dropping during the race, the driver could use this to pump more oil into the sump without needing to come into the pits to top up
Cheers
Tony
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Thanks, Tony, that confirms my thoughts that the lines coming through the bulkhead are low pressure oil lines. Now all I need to do is figure out how the lines are routed both to and from the tank and where they are plumbed into the engine.
Ian
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Has it really been 3 months since my last post?
Following Bo's lead, I downloaded a trial version of Rhino and have been playing around designing some replacement shocks for this, to be 3d printed. I submitted my order for the prototype today and should have that in a couple of weeks. That will enable me to check the fit and modify it as necessary, then order the full set of 6......
Ian
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Great to hear that you are still going ahead with this magnificent build Ian, looking forward to the next update.
Des.
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Cool!
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Yes, very cool! :)
George
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Ian, I know this kit well. You are doing a remarkable job! Keep up the good work.
Pietro
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I received the prototype this week and I'm very pleased with it! The size and angles look good, so I now need to add the adjusters and mounting bolt heads. I've decided that for ease of printing and to reduce my design workload, instead of making 6 different shocks, (which would be required if I included the mountings) I will leave the mounts off - these can either be scratchbuilt, or removed from the kit shocks and modified as necessary. I will add the bolt heads and adjusters in their correct positions, but raised slightly on a small "pedestal" so that they can be cut off with a small razor saw and fitted on whichever side needs them, thus getting around the left and right handed differences. Doing this means I only need one master and will be able to print 6 identical parts, then easily modify each one to fit where it's needed!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4315/35125514044_e43b57169e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/35576512480_1ffd06cc11_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35966113675_4f19618006_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35156071053_a093224137_c.jpg)
Removing the adjusters will be necessary anyway to add the decals for the adjusting plates.
I'm looking forward to getting these finished and fitted! 8)
Ian
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Very nicely done Ian.
Des.
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That's awesome, Ian! It's great how you're improving the kit with 3d printing.
George
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that's cool Ian!
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Yes, that is the proper way to use 3D-printing. Thank you for providing an update.
S.
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Ian,
Now that's truly an awesome project my old friend.The highest level skills and craftsmanship clearly shine in this beautiful build. The level of detail you've is nothing short of breathtaking. Well Done my old friend Well Done!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks all, for your supportive comments! I have completed the design by adding the mounting nuts and adjusters, and ordered a full set of 6. I'm looking forward to seeing how they look "in the flesh"...
Ian
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These arrived in the mail today....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35156071273_f6eb8f3fa4_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35896517886_f3620b360d_z.jpg)
I'm well chuffed!
Translated: Very happy with how they've turned out. There's no way I could have got this level of detail by any other means. Now I need to reprint the decals.....
Ian
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Well done! Did you print them in FUD or FXD?
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Absolutely amazing Ian, you can't get any better than that.
Des.
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Ian, do you have plans to make these available to the Common man?
Pietro
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I do indeed, Pietro. As soon as I fit them to make absolutely sure they are OK I'll make them available on Shapeways. I want to finish the Short 184 first....
Ian
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Hi folks,
I haven't forgotten about this, I just have other builds that are priorities at the moment. Having said that, I got bored with rigging the Short so decided to tackle a little project on this one as a break.
Airfix moulded the radiator badge too low so I needed to find a way to put that right. I tried making a mould of it a few months back and destroyed the badge, so I ordered a new rad shell from Airfix. After trying to mould it again I decided it wasn't going to work: I couldn't get the detail fine enough, or make it thin enough. I therefore bit the bullet and decided to graft it!
I first removed the badge from the replacement shell, then marked out where it should go and drilled out the centre line.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/35937345205_9dc2a92a8a_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35937342595_cc64929877_c.jpg)
I then slowly and carefully widened the hole until the badge fitted.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35937342295_61f543133d_c.jpg)
The top of the shell is a little flatter than the front, so hot water came into play. I made sure I checked it constantly to see if it would bend and in the end I got it sufficiently flat to insert it into the hole in the shell.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4326/35937341765_967c2f9a4b_c.jpg)
The edges of the joints at the rear were filled with Mr Dissolved Putty to fill any gaps and give it a little more strength, and when it's dry I'll fill and smooth off the joins at the front.....
Ian
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Very tricky work with the badge Ian but it appears you have pulled it off well.
Des.
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Well done sir!
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I have finally made the shock absorbers available on Shapeways:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/ibdetails
They are being made available simply because of the great feedback I've received. I hope they help bring some more of these old kits out of the woodwork!
Ian
Thanks Bo, for your assistance!
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Very cool Ian, welcome to the club! :)