forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: Mark on August 30, 2014, 11:37:14 AM
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I'm at the rigging stage on my D.VII F and am having some issues.
I thought I would use fishing line (Shimano Technium 0.14mm) to give the short runs some stiffness. I pushed one end into the hole and super-glued it . . . no problem. I then held the other end over the top of the control horn with a pair of tweezers and applied a drop of super glue . . . and . . . it won't stick. The super glue is new and the humidity is about 50% in my model room. I then changed over to E-Z Line and it seems to stick with no problem, even under tension. Is this just an issue with the fishing line?
Also, since this is my first WNW kit, any suggestions for where to attach the rigging to the horn? Top? Inside? Outside? Elsewhere? I know ideally it should probably go into a teeny hole drilled in the front of the horn, but right now that's probably beyond my expertise.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Mark G
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I would think the answer is yes, an issue with the Monofilament. When hard pressed with this kind of issue I go back to my roots and use Heat Stretched sprue. If the easy line worked then you have found your own solution. It seems to me that Fishing line works best when anchored in holes or turnbuckles.
RAGIII
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What kind of super glue are you using.
Any movement while it's drying upsets the setting so I tend to use the extra thin stuff as that cures quicker than any other.
You could use a kicker but I hate that stuff.
But I'd agree that EZ line sets much quicker than fishing line just due to its make up.
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I too find it difficult sometimes. Unless you can hold the second end of the line under tension and very still while the CA goes off, it may not stick. Then you find you are trying next time to stick CA on top of CA which doesn't always work either.
With the situation you describe, I would do the same ie glue into the fuselage/tail hole first. At the control horns I usually drill (or use the existing hole cleaned out) through the top end of the horn (side to side) and loop the line through and gently tension by pulling back in the original direction. Seal the "loose" end to the tensioned line with a tiny drop of CA (or even tie in a knot if flexible enough) and cut off the spare. Occasionally I end up cutting off the rigged line too :(
If the model has a turnbuckle at the horn end of the line, I either fix the buckle on the horn first or do a simple representation by slipping a length of brass tube on the line. Check reference pics because some rigging doesn't have turnbuckles (just ferrules to close the eyelets) or rigging may even pass through the horn front to back, in which case I would try and cut a slot along the top of the horn into which the line can sit.
I use EZ line mostly, or the elastic you can get from WNW, as this is very flexible and forgiving!
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also i noticed that different formulas of ca behave differently. like i used to use the ca designed for plastic and it does this sometimes. so it may be the type of ca too.
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Thanks for all the tips . . . really appreciated! :)
Mark G