forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Ian from Doncaster on May 26, 2012, 08:27:16 AM
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I started this just around christmas time but put it away several times whilst I built a few smaller kits. I couldn't resist opening it at first, and did the prop straight away. I reckoned British prop laminations were of very similar (if not the same) wood types, so there is little point in trying to reproduce laminations here.
I built the engine, but have left off some of the attachments and extra detailing until later in the build when I fit it on the frame. I added some throttle linkages, extra pipes but there is still some way to go. The pic shows the weathered copper blotchier than it is in reality - not my greatest photo here!
This week I started on the "office", preparing the wooden components for painting and working on the seat assembly. I've said several times before, but I enjoy the modular way of building these kits - some of the sub asemblies can be completed from sprue to almost finished in a matter of hours. I've also wound about 200 copper wire eyelets for rigging attachments, but they're for later....
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/propeller2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/engine8.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/engine7.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/engine.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/seatandtanks.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/seatassembly.jpg)
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Very nice progress so far Ian, your propeller and engine look superb and by the looks of things your cockpit interior is going to be first class as well.
Des.
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Thanks Des :) The cockpits alone are almost complete models themselves. Two years ago I would never have imagined building models like this.....
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I'll be watching this with interest Ian as sometime in the not too distant future, I plan to buy this kit also. The boom rigging is what's giving me pause.
Cheers,
Chris
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Lovely start...especially that engine and the floor boards. Those suckers look like wood for sure! :D
Excellent...Dan
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Great progress. Your wood, leather and corrosion effects are excellent.
Steve
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Great progress, stunning work, superb job Ian.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian,
Outstanding progress my old friend. The interior looks fantastic and the Beardsmore is very impressive.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great work there, very dishearteningly for someone working on ostensibly the same kit. ;)
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Great work there, very dishearteningly for someone working on ostensibly the same kit. ;)
Don’t be disheartened N.C.S.E. but be encouraged. What an outstanding job Ian’s doing gives you a target to work towards. It doesn’t come over night but just think of the things you’ll learn, the fellowship you’ll have with these grand folks and the fun your going to have getting there. :)
Cheers,
Paddy
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Great copper effect Ian and the interior is looking pretty good!!
Andrew
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Your wood floor boards certainly added the needed touch to your pit! Well Done!
RAGIII
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Thanks for all the comments folks :) Despite looking complex, this kit is a straightforward build so far - breaks down into manageable chunks although I suspect the rigging will be somewhat time consuming!
NCSE - go for it - the only way to get more skilled is to practice. You are way ahead at age 15 of where I was 2 years ago, and I'm 43.! I am still way behind many of the craftsmen on here, but there's room for all :) I've improved many times over by following the examples of others.
Got the oils on some of the wooden bits - the observer's floor, storage unit, radiator panel etc. I followed the WNW instructions for woodgraining - brushing a light coat of oils on a sprayed base colour. The wood will receive acouple of coats of klear in a few days when dry.
I also prepared the nascelle halves. The insides have a panel which is CDL, this is humbrol 71. The wood base is humbrol 93, and the rear section is humbrol metalcote polished steel. The outsides are primed in matt black, with the rear halves again in metalcote steel. The instructions call for a dark grey, but as this steel colour is darkish in appearance I decided not to overspray with grey. This may be not wholly accurate, but I prefer it. There will be some repainting after the nascelles are joined, as well as more work on the black covering. The inside of the front of the nascelle is stated as CDL on WNW instructions, but I prefer to depict this complex curved structure as wooden. The oils will go on later.
I cut out and painted a few more of the cockpit fittings, and hopefully later tonight I'll finish the oils on the remaining wooden parts. Although it will be Tuesday or Wednesday evening (UK time) before I can assemble the cockpit, I am quite pleased given that I only began the cockpit from sprue cutting on Thursday evening this week.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascelleprep.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/wooden1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/floor1.jpg)
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Ian,
Outstanding work my old friend. Love the wood with it's subtle grain. Well done. Thanks Ian for an outstanding thread that's a joy to follow.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Nicely done. Your wood tones are perfect. They have that "government furniture" look to them.
Steve
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I have seen far better wood graining than this, but it's good enough for me, for what I'm capable of...
Finished the oils for the wood on the other bits, cockpit frames etc, and nascelle interiors. The stitching will be highlighted before I close up the nascelle.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascellewood.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascellewood2.jpg)
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I go along with the rest of the folks and think your wood grain has a special touch. Looks very, very good.
Paddy
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The interior is just MORE of your excellent technique!! After the base coat do you do one colour of oil then the other or are you working them in simultaneously? Also is it Ochre and Burnt Sienna?
Steve
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Your wood grain looks perfect to my eye, Ian. Fantastic start, mate.
Cheers,
Bud
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Ian,
I think your wood grain effect is really supurb; remember the scale Transfer/effect thing; this to my eye looks very real. I'll be following along very closely, looks like this little devil is going places!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks for the comments - much appreciated. The WNW recommended technique works well enough for me :)
Currently I use Raw Sienna and Burnt Umber. I don't mix the colours first, but apply the Raw Sienna first. Whilst still wet I dot on tiny bits of Burnt Umber and then brush in in the direction of the grain. This darkens the mix slightly but also gives a few areas of subtle shade changes. I am thinking about adding a further colour for more depth. Next time maybe.
The base colour is Humbrol 93 Sand - this is quite golden so I would use a more beige shade as a base for lighter wood,
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Ian,
Great start as Gregory said! Wood looks perfect!
RAGIII
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Not much extra tonight - started to assemble the cockpit, but most of the oiled wood bits aren't ready. Got the rudder bar on and rigged, but still need to add foot straps. Micro mask will do the trick nicely.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/rudderbar.jpg)
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This is starting to come along very well indeed now Ian, looking superb.
Cheers
Pete.
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I read your oils aren't dried as yet ! I use the same technique as you and even use the same brand oil paints. I have the same problem with drying there must be some sort of product that can mixed with the oil paint to speed the drying process, it's been 2 weeks since I applied my oil coat and I noticed it's only just dried!! By the way I love what You've done to date beautiful work mate!
Sean
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Do you mix a bit of turps in?
Steve
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Yes I do use a small amount of turps as it thins the oil paint down ,I find it easier to brush.
Sean
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I'll leave my other wood bits for a few more days before applying a coat or two of klear, they are all prepared.
Tonight I managed to cut out all the components that will have the black surface ie wings, elevators, ailerons, rudder, wheels etc and gave them a prime with matt black from the rattle tin. They'll get a top coat of satin black which I'll blend in before toning down the "blackness", as well as painting the top of the upper wing in the recommended brown colour. No further pics yet.
The worst bit of the kits is removing the sprue trimmings and sanding the cuts smooth. Took over two hours to cut out and prepare 20 plus components but about 5 minutes to spray them...
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Hi Ian,
Very nice work so far.
For the oil paints I use Windsor and Newton Liquin original, this is mixed into the oils before applying to the model and allows them to dry fully in around 24 hours. I was finding that without using it they could take up to 7 days to dry under normal temperature conditions.
Instead of using a clear coat you could try spraying tamiya clear orange or clear yellow, this will help vary the wooden tones and also protect them.
Keep up the good work.
Best Regards
Keith
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I read your oils aren't dried as yet ! I use the same technique as you and even use the same brand oil paints. I have the same problem with drying there must be some sort of product that can mixed with the oil paint to speed the drying process, it's been 2 weeks since I applied my oil coat and I noticed it's only just dried!! By the way I love what You've done to date beautiful work mate!
Sean
Hi Sean; I use Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying oil paints, they dry overnight and they are used with either turps or white spirit, the only very slight downside to them is that you can feel them starting to go off after about 15 mins, but I've found this is plenty of time to get your wood painted.
Cheers
Pete.
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Hi Keith, you are right, I have seen many examples where the patina of the wood has been improved by spraying the clear orange over. I don't have that paint, but I have often used tinted klear/future - a drop or two of colour in a lidful of klear - I also use this as a dirty/oily wash. I have a shade of orange/brown paint that I may tint the klear with for this build.
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Ian, you can also tint Future with simple food coloring. You can get it in the bakery aisle of your grocery store. Red, blue, yellow and green. Cheap, too.
Cheers,
Bud
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Good tip Bud, I can see some experimentation coming on.....
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Sprayed the top wings with Humbrol 29 dark brown, The WNW instructions call for 98 chocolate but I think that looks too dark - this is more like a brownish PC10 - I polished the paint with a micromesh cloth and will further dull down with pastel powder after I have sealed the decals with klear. The decals went down great with a drop of water and the hairdryer. The location of the decals is easy as each has a small hole corresponding with control horn/rigging attachment points on the wing and aileron surfaces.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/topwings.jpg)
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Ian,
As always my old friend outstanding work. I'm with you the Humbrol 29 fits the bill perfectly 98 is too dark. Watching for the next update.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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That is a perfect PC10, Ian. Right out of the tin, too. Gonna have to get me some of that Humbrol 29.
Cheers,
Bud
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Bud, Gregory, the Humbrol 29 is sprayed over matt black used as a primer - I don't know how different or un-PC10 like that it would look over a different primer? I must say I was pleasantly surprised with the results here.
However a note of caution, the colour seen here could be represented slightly differently to how it appears in the flesh due to how the photo was taken.
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Spent a few hours last night painting the control panel bezels and decalling. I need to get a punch set to make small circular cut out masks as I find it difficult to get a good edge on the bezels. I end up painting up to the edges using a cat's whisker (thick end) held in tweezers. Problem is, I prefer acrylic paints so the droplet on the whisker is often dry before I can get it on the bezel...
Decals were ok, apart from the crescent shaped guage that goes above the compass. I was attaching the compass part and carelessly applied too much glue to its locating slot in the panel. As I reached for a bit of tissue to soak up the excess, the decal in question got dislodged and you guessed it, landed in the glue at which point the decal disintigrated. Made quite a mess which when wiped off left a section of wood stripped down to the plastic. Too late to strip the whole panel and restart, due to the decals, I did a patch for the spoilt wood paint but the colour doesn't quite match. I have left it as it is, to try and further correct this would possibly make it worse!
Anyway, the pic isn't as sharp as I would like, but looking at the panel this morning I am relatively happy.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/panel1.jpg)
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Nice work on the Panel Ian it came out looking great! Did you use Decal softener to conform the Decals?
Sean
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That panel looks ok to me Ian.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thanks folks - just good old fashioned water and a coat of klear for the decals. The panel is ok - but I know where the faults are.
Can anyone recommend a punch set to stamp out small circles?
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This is what I use, Ian. Works great.
http://www.micromark.com/micro-punch-set,8603.html
The Panel looks fantastic, mate!
Cheers,
Bud
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Ian,
These are what I've used for the past 35 years the Waldron WRP035 punch and die set and the WRP053 Sub-miniature set. The second set is rarely used though as it's too easy to bend the punches. Here's the link to them at Roll Models ( Excellent service).
LINK: http://www.rollmodels.net/standard/catalog.htm
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Beautiful job, I like the brownish PC10, to my sight it seems realistic.
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Looks like a good save on the i/p and you are moving along well!!
Steve
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Thanks for the links and the comments :)
A little more tonight. Painted the copper pipes, switches and decalled the lower panel in the pilot's cockpit, and assembled the panel to the observer's locker, front floor and then to the radiator. I almost forgot to paint the inside of the central box in the locker, which is seen on this version as there are two separate lids. I couldn't do the woodgrain in such a small space, so I just gave it a wash with the base colour. Also the inside of the locker when viewed from the rear is seen in front of the rudder bar so I painted that and gave it a bit of grain. Can't be sure if this is visible when the nascelle is buttoned up, but I didn't take a risk. Had to re-rig the lines to the rudder bar, starboard side, so not as well done as I wanted but ok-ish. Forgot to add toe straps to the rudder bar, but they would have to be scratched anyway - at this stage I could still add them if I am careful.
Slow going, but worth taking time over.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpit1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpit2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpit3.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpit4.jpg)
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Lovely job Ian, the pit is starting to come together now.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thanks Pete :) I just noticed a mark of copper paint on the seat back, easy to remove. The curve shaped "scratch" just visible in one of the pics on the observer cockpit floor is I think a cat hair, not stuck in the paint fortunately.
Dry fitted the side frame to check the fit. It looks ok, and will be very snug. However, it will be necessary to scrape the paint away from joining surfaces to ensure a proper fit. If I left it as shown below, the albeit small gap may result in the nascelle halves not fitting snugly. This is not uncommon with WNW models, but is a lesson I learned with my RFC Pup!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/fitting.jpg)
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This is what I've found as well Ian, WnW kits are so precise that even a coat of paint will spoil the fit, on the Albies you have to dry run every bulkhead to ensure the fit is ok or else the fusilage halves won't fit together snugly.
Cheers
Pete.
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Really nice progress Ian,
Best Regards
Keith
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Ian,
It just gets better with each new update my old friend. Keep up the fantastic progress.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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This is going very well and excellent close up photos!!!
Steve
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Beautiful work to date Ian, the cockpit is looking excellent and the Humbrol 29 on the wings is perfect.
I use the same punch set as Bud.
Des.
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Looking good Ian, thanks for the detailed photos, they provide a lot of inspiration.
Andrew
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I love the wood tones, very nice effort !
Sean
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Thanks for all the comments folks and the encouragement - I know my work isn't a patch on the experts here, but I'm here to learn and share. :)
Not too much to report tonight - been doing stuff to prepare for a house move in a few weeks.
Prepped and painted a couple of extra cockpit parts but nothing for any pics yet. Didn't have time to assemble the first side frame so I did a bit of work on the wheels. They have already had the multi-layered black tones sprayed on, but I masked the hubs to spray on the whitewall tyre rims then painted the rest of the tyre mid grey. Not sure why an aircraft painted in dull tones would have whitewall tyres but that is what the colourscheme calls for, so be it... The visible spokes are highlighted with a silver sharpie, and I may try and paint the axle locking pin, but that will be with the cat's whisker paint brush!.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/whitewall1.jpg)
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how did you get such a neat demarcation line on the tyre between the white and the grey? I made several attempts at it I even cut out an appropriate sized masking disk but that didn't work either.
Sean
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Hi Sean - i used a circle of tamiya tape to mask the wheels to paint the whole tyre white, then I carefully painted the grey very thinly around the outer edge of the tyre - there is a slight ridge near the circumference on each side, so with thin paint and as steady a hand as I could muster, I did it free hand. There are a couple of tiny dry brushed white touch ups though ;)
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Your a better man than I Ian! I tried that process twice and I couldn't get it to look anywhere near as good as yours.
I'll have to have another go at some point as you say the instructions call for it needs to be there.
Sean
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Ian,
Love the Whitewalls my old friend. Excellent masking too nice and sharp. Perfect.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Outstanding freehand work!!
Andrew
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Great whitewalls Ian, you can come and paint mine, well done.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thanks folks :) The fabric spoke cover is a separate component and is only dry fitted here - that means you get a perfect demarkation between tyre and hub. On the inner face however it is necessary to mask, here the circle cutter comes into its own :)
I had considered cutting out circle templates to mask the outer ring for the whitewall, but there is little extra thickness of plastic on which to mount the mask, as well as difficulties centering it. Alternatively, mask the hub and spray the whole tyre grey first, then mask around the rim with thin strips of tape?
I did mask the inside of the wheel when painting the tyres so that the black paint inside the hub can still be seen through the inspection hole. I am not sure if the centre of the outer hub and the edges including the inspection hole edge would have been metal - I may touch these up with some metalcote.
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You did a brilliant job on the white walls, Ian. Can't believe that was done free-hand.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks again Bud...
The whitewall doesn't look that great under the magnifying lamp, but it will do. My other half says it looks like a polo mint! The lighting/camera flash hides the tyre wording on the right hand one in the pic below.
I painted the central axle stub antique brass and the locking pin in steel, although this is difficult to see. I also ran a sanding stick down the spokes/ribs on the cover to highlight them.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/wheels.jpg)
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Ian, there's nothing wrong with those wheels, Polo mint or not, they look good to me.
Cheers
Pete.
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Beautiful wheels there Pete which reminds me after looking at yours that I need to paint the locking pins on mine .
Sean
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They look very good and certainly fit in with the rest of this excellent build!!!
Steve
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Ian: you're getting verrry good at this modelling gig. ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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Ian,
My old friend as Steve said they "certainly fit with the rest of this excellent build".Couldn't have said it better myself.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Cheers folks :) I love going off on tangents and having a go at random parts out of sequence. Did something similar tonight and made some eyelets. Fitted some on the underside of the top wing centre section, prior to final painting so the eyelets will get sprayed black with the surface, but the eyelets won't get the pastel shading. Had to stop after 20 or so as my eyes are hurting! Doing this before final painting will ensure I can hide any CA mess ;)
I did an experiment with the rigging material by simply tieing the line to the eyelets. Hopefully I can repeat this on the model rigging to avoid making more mess with the CA! I am using the RAF wire material supplied by WNW. It is not quite as stretchy as EZ Line but I won't need to paint these lines, and it has enough "give" not to pull out the eyelets when under tension.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/eyelets.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/eyelets2.jpg)
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Another tangent tonight - painted the fin and the upper surface of the tailplane in satin black and rigged the fin. I did this to try out how I plan to tie the rigging lines as well as the surface finish, with pastel powder toning down the black. I will have to take a pic in proper daylight to see if this has worked. The more shallow angle the surface is viewed from, the more prominent is the effect of the powdering, leaving the ribs highlighted.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/tail2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/tail1.jpg)
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Ian, Lovely work.
Working on tangents, hah well maybe so but what you do is great. Now me I work like a superrubber modeller bouncing from bit to bit with no seeming pattern... sometimes it works out fine others... well lets not talk about them :o
Anyone who tackles the Fee are braver men than me... oh poetry.
Keith
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Ian,
Today's tangent is looking great my old friend Truly a grand experiment in breaking up the black monotone and one that has worked beautifully. Keep up the outstanding works.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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From your photo's it seems to be quite effective Ian. She'll look the part when put together.
Andrew
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Looking good Ian, the shading looks impressive, just hope the pastels dont rub off, which they tend to do if they aren't fixed.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian,
Bouncing from one sub assembly to others and back makes a lot of sense, I do the same. Prevents getting bogged down and I believe leads to better results as the "chore" aspect is virtually eliminated. Given your subject you'll need plenty of "fresh perspectives" as you progress; I'm with Keith, it takes a much braver man then I to tackle a "Fee" at this stage of my modelling skills!!
Looking very nice indeed!
Cheers,
Lance :)
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Thanks for the comments - I am quite pleased with the effects so far.
Pete, for the pastels I tend to apply them without having polished the paint with micromesh, this leaves just enough roughness of surface for the pastels to "take" and then I coat carefully with klear, and will brush some more pastels on before the klear dries completely.
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Did a bit more with the upper surface of the top wing, applied pastels between the ribs and sealed with Klear. Started to touch in the metalwork on the surface in black. This wing is almost to big to get into one photo!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/topwing1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/topwing2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/topwing3.jpg)
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Ian,
Excellent progress my old friend. The pastels look great.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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This is coming along very nicely Ian.
Best Regards
Keith
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Looking very good now Ian.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian, that's a really nice effect you've achieved with the pastels. What type do you use and can you elaborate a bit on how you apply them?
Cheers,
Lance
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Thank you :)
Lance, the pastels are "Inscribe" brand 32 colours "MPS" whatever that means - I inherited them from my daughter who in turn inherited them from my ex wife. I don't know much about the brands but they seem to work.
I grind the pastel into powder on rough sandpaper, then drybrush the powder onto the surfaces. I first used this technique to weather and do engine exhaust streaks on a WWII Heinkel He-111 model. The powder adheres better to a matt or slightly rough surface, so that it does not wash away when coated in klear - some will if the klear is brushed on, alternatively spray varnish will seal the powders. I tend to choose colours as close to the base paint to give a bit more depth.
This technique also works very well for exhaust rust effects.
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Good job on the pastels Ian. You've achieved a very subtle effect there, something I'm still chasing.
Cheers,
Chris
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Nicely done. Im guessing a flat coat will subdue it a bit.
Steve
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I agree Steve, at least looking at those pics taken under artificial light and with a camera flash. I may apply a matt finish but won't decide just yet.
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Continued with more painting of ailerons etc tonight, and attached a few control horns. Lost one of the rudder control horns to the carpet monster but fortunately I have some plasticard of the correct thickness from which I cut out a replacement. Doesn't quite have the details as embossed on the kit version, but I am content with it. The scratched version is on the left as you look at the pic.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/controlhorn.jpg)
The pic of the ailerons shows before (right) and after (left) for applying the pastel powders. There is a blemish near the control horn I need to blend out.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/aileronpowdering.jpg)
I also applied some powder over the tail number decal to take away the "newness", having aligned the number against a strip of tape to ensure the numbers are level on both sids of the rudder.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/decalprep.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/rudder.jpg)
I need to paint the rudder control horns and the other sides of the ailerons. I have not done the lower wings yet as there are some holes to drill for bomb racks etc as well as a large amount of rigging eyelets to add. Slowing down a bit now as a house move is imminent, and I can onmly do a couple of hours after my chores are finished for the day.
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The 'dirty' decal looks quite effective Ian, nicely done.
Andrew
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Good recovery on the control horn Ian, the dirty decal looks really effective, coming along fine.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian,
Just as I would expect,even more outstanding work from your talented bench. Keep them coming my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Very nice work Ian. I can't think of a harder colour scheme to do than straight black. Your use of pastels brings the colour to life. I'm looking forward to seeing more of the same.
Cheers,
Chris
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Thank you :)
Did a bit more work on the side frames, with the internal rigging, prior to fitting to the cockpit assembly.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/sideframes.jpg)
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Ian,
That fine work my friend and looks excellent .
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks Gregory - taking things easy at the moment, grabbing a spare hour or so to attach eyelets to the wings for rigging later. There are so many of these but it is easier to fix them onto the individual components first....
No more pics really to show this, but I can't really concentrate on any more involved work - I can take 1o mins or so and do a couple of eyelets, or a couple of hours to do 2 dozen...
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Hows progress Ian? Mines all finished !
Sean
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Hi Sean,
Looking forward to your finished pics.
I have made slow progress but still a long way to go. The prop and wheels are completed, the engine is virtually done bar a bit of detailing to be finished when it is fitted to the nascelle. The cockpit components are almost all ready but I am holding off the critical fit of the side frames and nascelle halves. These will need careful attention to fit properly, so in the meantime I am working on other components. The tail section is painted and rigged, the rudder is done, and the wings are partially complete with just the lower wing rigging eyelets to attach. Booms not yet started neither are the armaments.
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Sounds good Ian. The rigging when you get to that stage
Will certainly test you patience , I like to think I have alot
But it tested mine!!
Sean
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Looking good now Ian, I've been doing nothing but wood on mine these past few days and boy is there a lot.
Cheers
Pete.
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Continued with the eyelets, still more to go before finishing the painting. Here the top surface of the bottom wing is primed in matt black, and the top of the upper wing is done but the brackets and eyelets need painting.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/eyeletsbottomwing.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/eyeletstopwing.jpg)
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Thats plenty of eyelets you've got there Ian, good luck.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian, that engine is superb, mate. I've really enjoyed reading this log this morning.
However, I'll need a lot more practice before I even consider getting an FE2B myself, despite you, Pete and NSCE making it look easy.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Thanks Dal :) However I would say that you certainly can build one of these - it is just a case of doing things in small chunks and being patient. The rigging in particular looks daunting but can be done in stages - as you can see I have already placed dozens of eyelets and have rigged the fin.
You will certainly get your money's worth!
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Just catching up on this build, Ian. Very entertaining. I've never really considered building a Fee, but you're making a case for it. This seems like one of those 'adventure builds' where the process and challenge is just as important as the subject. Would that be a reasonable assumption, or do you just have a case of Fee Feever?
Keep up the great updates - this build could go on for months and I'd be happy!
Lindsay
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You are correct, the building gives much satisfaction. I may not have chosen this kit ahead of another, however it was a gift and turning into a very enjoyable one!
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Picked up on this a little tonight, after the house move. Painted the bracketry on the cockpit side frames. Not too happy with this, I did it free hand and not quite got the sharp edges I would have liked.
Never mind, it is mostly hidden in the nascelle....
More pics later.
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I've just had a great time with my Fee Ian, nacelle all joined up ok, sprayed it black/grey with dark grey at the rear, then tried to put some matt varnish on it, boy oh boy, I don't know why but the coats it has taken to cover it ok, it must have added about 5mm to the overall dimensions. ::)
Cheers
Pete.
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A quick pic of the frames....
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/frames.jpg)
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I made a few more eyelets and now have completed their insertion onto the wings and other flying surfaces. Of course I will need some more for the booms, undercarriage, bomb carriers etc but at least I can now finish painting the wings.
Am I delaying closing the nascelle halves? Possibly - but I will need to do that soon!
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My FE2b kit arrived today, and after a quick look I'm glad you guys are posting up your build logs for me to refer to - it's certainly going to be an interesting build!
Early or late?
I didn't choose this one at first as I wasn't keen on pushers but it was a gift. It is a fascinating model, with lots of detailing opportunities particularly the engine. Have a look at the FE2b project pages on the TVAL website too.
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Hi Ian;
I didn't have any problems closing up the nacelle halves, they joined beautifully, also the piece that goes behind the pilots seat went in a treat with no problems.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thanks Pete - I shall hopefully button my nascelle up this weekend. The wings are all painted and pastel shaded, but I can't seem to get the shading effect as well as before - I may have to add a touch of grey pastel in the black powder mix.
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Rigged the elevators to their control horns, and threaded through the threads for the control wires. The photo does not show the pastel shading very well, one side of the horizontal stabiliser appears unshaded, however this is a fault of my photography. I may need to do a little work on the elevators to get the surface finish to match.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/tailplane.jpg)
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You're making great strides Ian and I can see how time consuming this build is. I'm convinced that it would be in my best interests to leave my early Fee kit for the coming winter months when I can devote more time to it. You'll have yours finished by then so I'll be well aware of any pitfalls along the way. ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks Chris,
This is certainly a kit I can't rush, however there are always bits you can do relatively quickly, ie the propeller was the first thing I completed within hours of opening the box (apart from oil drying of course...)
Cockpit coming together now - shaved the paint away from joining surfaces, and assembled the sides. Still a few more bits to add but not too long before those nascelle halves get joined....
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpitalmostdone.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpitalmostdone2.jpg)
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Looking very nice Ian, I couldn't agree with you more, definitely a kit you can't rush.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian,
As always outstanding work my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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I'm getting the itch to build one of these. Nice work.
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Thanks folks, this is all fitting together nicely, but I am removing paint from joining surfaces. In the picture below you can just make out the bare grey plastic on the hidden side of the shelf-like piece on which sits the pilot's upper dashboard. The shelf was stripped to allow the dash to sit properly, and also the top of the frames on which sits the shelf too.
The engine is just sitting on the bearers temporarily. I will fix it permanently when I have a few more details ready, probably after the nascelle is complete. I will try some oil staining too. Only need to fit the seatbelts before joining the halves.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpitwithengine1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpitwithengine2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/cockpitwithengine3.jpg)
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Ian,
This is really coming together in spectacular fashion now; the engine detail and "woodwork" are supurb. I still havn't garnered the courage to order one however if/when I do I'll have lots of great Build Threads to reference, not the least of them being this one. Looking forward to the next steps.
Cheers,
Lance
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Looking very good now Ian, get them nacelle halves together lad.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thanks Lance - I am sure you could manage this kit, just take it in small stages...
Pete - almost there, was toying with fitting the engine first before adding the nascelle halves but all I need to do now is add the radiator supports, and highlight the interior nascelle stitching and cut out the holes for the gun mount etc.
Did the seatbelts last night and some extra rigging on the frame, difficult to see here. A shame the seatbelts hide half of the seat cushion :(
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/seatbelts.jpg)
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Good progress so far Ian, looking very nice indeed.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian,
Excellent progress to date my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great looking work there!!!
Steve
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Thanks again folks - I eventually managed to get the nascelle halves together. The front sections are brush painted and the side panels dulled down with a greyer tone. The rear ends need repainting and a some general touch ups, otherwise the nascelle is almost done.
The halves don't quite go together perfectly, but still looks ok-ish. The curved panel behind the pilot is not a perfect fit as others have reported, and it would have been possible and accessible to fill the gaps and paint the woodgrain in situ. Never mind, a lesson learned.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascelle1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascelle2.jpg)
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Ian,
Outstanding my old friend. Love the the paint.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Very nice!
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Very nice indeed Ian ;)
Andrew
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Cheers folks...
A little more work on the nascelle. Painted the rear of the nascelle in metalcote steel prior to a mid-grey wash to bring the colour close to that called for in the instructions. Rubbed off some of the grey to give a slightly warn effect with a bit of metal coming through.
Drybrushed dark grey over the decals to represent wear and to dull down the glossy effect. Will perhaps do a little more, or maybe just apply some matt varnish on the fabric panels.
Undercarriage next, but I've already broken the axle with careless handling. Should be fixable though.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascelleright.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/nascelleleft.jpg)
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Hi Ian,
Really nice progress, some of the parts are very delicate indeed and require careful handling.
I have just started work on the tail booms and just getting them off the sprue in one piece is a major operation.
I hope you get the axle sorted.
Best Regards
Keith
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Neat work and cool that its a complete model in itself sans wings etc!!!
Steve
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I like the contrasting shades of black Ian. It adds interest to the model.
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks for the comments. Got the wheels on, undercarriage assembly repaired with CA and rigged the legs. Starting to look a bit like an aeroplane now...
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/wheelson.jpg)
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Hehe, some might say if you build it correctly it will sort of look like an aeroplane when you are finished ;D
Joking aside, she's looking fine!
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Had a slight mishap last night whilst fitting some of the additional components under the nascelle - I dislodged the undercarriage and the axle broke again where I had previously repaired it, and the impact of the knock also dislodged the struts from the nascelle. Fortunately, the only damage is where I had made a repair and the assembly is still repairable but will be weakened. I wasn't 100% happy with the assembly anyway, as from the front it looked a bit skew.
I think I will bite the bulllet and get a replacement sprue from WNW and rebuild the assembly from scratch so it will be stronger, period.
Plenty of little jobs to do on the model in the meantime....
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Thought I would have a try at fixing the undercarriage, and I am happy with the outcome - in fact the assembly is in fact much less skew (cutting mat lines used as a guide) than originally yesterday, but I will need to check it out later for any touch up paint. Seems quite strong too...
I could have spent an hour or two more on other work but decided to quit when I was ahead :)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/fixedwheel2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/fixedwheels1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/fixedwheel3.jpg)
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Nice work Ian, the repaired gear looks great. Like the rest of your build, very clean and totally top class!
Cheers,
Lance
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Central bomb rack fitted and rigged, and the rigging lines attached at the wing roots now since that would be difficult to do once the wings are on. There is already more rigging in this model than on some other complete models!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/bombrack.jpg)
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Ian,
Excellent repair my old friend,you really can't tell there was any damage at all. Keep up the outstanding work on this beauty.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Very nice progress Ian, the repairs are unnoticeable, very well done.
Des.
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Slow progress recently, have been researching the detailing for the engine - the engine being wholly exposed could have done with more PE from WNW but never mind. I made some priming cups although these are so small the minute detail is impossible for me to reproduce accurately. I also added a linkage for the magneto advance/retard control.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/tap.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/enginewithprimingcups.jpg)
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It's always "fun" when something goes wrong, ain't it, Ian? But you've managed to repair it very well, I can't see where it was damaged.
I like the detail you've added to the engine, too.
Next installment, please!
Dal.
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Looking very good now, I know what you mean about the slow progress Ian, you seem to work for hours on a part and it doesn't look any different, I think the FE2b is my most challenging build to date.
Cheers
Pete.
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Ian,
Outstanding work on her engine my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Your progress on this Fe2b is great. I like the way you`ve finished the engine. maybe a little darkwash on the engine body would make it look even better.
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Thanks folks :)
Filip - you are correct, the engine does need some weathering and I have put a wash on the engine block since my last post. The photos however do not show the wash very well, perhaps they will look better under natural light and not camera flash...
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Here's a pic of the engine so far sitting in the nascelle - will be permanently fitted after I have finished the pipework on the other side. The other pic shows some pipework done yesterday - the oil pipes done in EZ Line are a bit too raggedy for my liking, but as seen on the assembly pic, they are mostly hidden. I did a dirty wash on the engine casing too.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/100_2648.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/enginedetailing1.jpg)
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Ian,
As always outstanding work my old friend. That engine is something else,love those additional detail you've included. The dark wash really does much to bring it to life. Looking forward to the next great update.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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I REALLY love your engine. The crank case just has the right "run" look and patina. Excellent.
Can't wait to start my Fe.
Dan :)
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Thanks folks :) The detailing is a bit "loose" IMHO but will be better next time....
Here's the other side, just needs the throttle linkage cabling then it can go into the nascelle.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/enginedetailing2.jpg)
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That's very nice, Ian. You just need to get the erks to give it a bit of a clean, mate- obviously the crew chief's not doing his job.
Dal
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Here's the engine installed, with the extra pipework. The detailing is not as sharp as I would have liked it to be, and the lighting has obscured the engine casing weathering. The reflections off the different weathered surfaces on the copper pipes suggest the paint is less smooth than it is in reality.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/engineintsalled.jpg)
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Looks to me like you could almost turn 'er over Ian. ;D Nice work!
Cheers,
Chris
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Here's another pic of the engine installed, not a great pic but in natural light which I think shows the copper piping better.
Since that pic was taken I have re-done the external nascelle paint now it won't be handled as much. I will try and get another pic later.
Before finishing the bottom wings I decided to do some of the peripherals. Made the 230lb bomb easy enough, but masking the red band on the conical nose was a nightmare, this was the 4th attempt. The green band was easy! Dry brushed the bomb with steel colour to show a bit of wear and tear, and also dry brushed over the decals and the painted bands with the base yellow to simulate warn stencils. This bomb must have been carried for quite a few sorties and manhandled on and off into storage many times!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/anotherengineshot.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/230lb.jpg)
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Lovely work Ian, the bomb is excellent and the engine is superb. This bird is coming together very nicely indeed ;)
Andrew
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Thanks Andrew :)
It's attached now, and whilst not perfect, I am happy with the bomb. It is now fitted to the carrier, and I have also made the 8 smaller bombs and their carriers to fit under the wings, but these are yet to be painted.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/bombon2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/bombon1.jpg)
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Ian,
She's looking awfully good my old friend. That bomb mount does look fragile though. I'm certain I'd manage to break it off several times while finishing the rest of the build. Outstanding thread and I'm looking forward to more.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks Gregory - it is a little fragile but the rigging helps. I added this now to avoid damaging other parts by adding it later. Gets another job out of the way for later...
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I thought about filing an indent into the axle fairing for this bomb but the structure is too fragile now.
Painted the small bombs and fitted them to their carriers for assembly to the wings later. The instructions are confusing as to which release levers to fit and where to attach the cables to the bomb carriers.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/bombs.jpg)
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The bomb painting and mounting is very well done Ian, like Gregory said, the mount looks very fragile but I can see where the rigging would be doing it's job. I am very impressed with your engine, you did a super job with the colors. Watching your build is giving me more incentive to buy one of these kits, it is a nice looking model.
Des.
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Ian,
Fascinating to watch, you really are producing some "top drawer" results here. I'm still not sure I'm ready to tackle this little devil, the amount of forethought and sequence planning must be significant however you are certainly handling it. Looking forward to more updates, well done!
Cheers,
Lance
BTW, just got a used copy of "One Spring in Picardy" so the "FEE" bug may well get me regardless....................
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Thanks Des, Lance... I am sure you would both do justice to this superb kit - I still rank myself as an amateur in WWI modelling. The modular nature of the kit allows for sub assemblies to be done out of sequence, so I've prepped and painted, decalled and rib shaded the wings and added rigging eyelets, done the propeller, bombs etc waiting for attachment. Some jobs only take an evening or two, so when I am short of time I pick up on a stage that comes later in the instructions and set it aside for assembly later. I've drawn the line at turnbuckles on this one, that would be too much for me on this occasion.
Apart from lozenge decals, this kit provides for a great variety of WWI modelling techniques. There's rigging, woodgrain, rib shading, rigging, painting of different surfaces including metals, rigging, opportunities for extra detailing and scratching especially on the exposed engine, rigging, weathering, rigging, guns & bombs, and did I mention some rigging?
The kit looks very complicated, but if you've done a little rigging before, and have patience to build lots of individual components then this kit is very do-able for anyone in my situation, and much easier for the more experienced guys on here. Just be prepared for a long build - unless you're retired and have lots of time on your hands!!!
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Now that the nascelle is all done bar the bomb release levers and elevator controls and the gun, I am moving on to getting the lower wings attached. Painted the black surfaces then used a combination of micromesh polishing, klear coating and pastel powdering between the ribs to get the effect I want. Pics aren't great due to artificial light and camera flash. I weathered the top wing decals to hide a tear... :-"
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/bottom%20wings%20painted_zpsda7b99d1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/wings_zps62b226a0.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/wings%202_zps79a99ad8.jpg)
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Lower wings attached, rigging lines attached and struts fitted. There is just enough "give" to allow the struts to align to the top wing later. Struts are painted a contrasting nearly black colour for a bit of variety. I'll do the booms in the same way later.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/struts1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/struts2.jpg)
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She looks very nice with the bottom wings mounted, the painting and weather of the wings is excellent. What type of rigging line are you using for the wings?
This kit is very appealing and one will probably end up at my door pretty soon. Thank you for giving us a step by step on building this model.
Des.
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I agree Des. This one didnt interest me too much to start with but seeing this scheme in the flesh - done well - is changing my mind.
Steve
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Thanks Des and Steve :)
I am using this for rigging http://wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3068 (http://wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3068)
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Top wing attached to the struts and rigging started. I tied off a few more lines tonight, about 22 more in all, but no more pics yet. I think the nascelle sits a bit skew viewed from the front, and I think this is to do with how the bottom wings have slotted in. I could have assembled the wings to the nascelle more accurately if the undercarriage had been left off until later - I had to be careful not to damage the undercarriage by being too forceful with the wings. The instructions call for the undercarriage to go on first, but if I built this again, I'd leave it until much later.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/topwingon1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/topwingon2.jpg)
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Like a rabid mandolin!!!!!! She looks very good. Im looking forward to the next update
Steve
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Thanks Steve...
I left my model on the shelf away from the reach of my cats, and this morning I found that the spiders had made a web on the wings..!!
Just lost a few eyelets that need replacing, then another spider session on the starboard wing and that's the wing rigging done :)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/spiderweb.jpg)
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More nice work. Very impressive looking bird.
Steve
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Got to love those spiders Ian, they do some great work ;) ;D
Andrew
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Keep a way yours spider from cats, othervise who finish riggin . ;D
Adam .
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Had a break from rigging, need to make some replacement eyelets to finish the wing rigging. Prepared the components for the boom assembly and glued them together prior to painting and rigging. The parts fit together superbly so that this stage is simplicity itself. Resting on the wings just for the pics tonight, I will paint and rig the booms before fitting permanently. Now to make more eyelets including for the boom rigging. I've already made the tailplane and painted the rudder etc, and the odds and ends that fit to the wings, ie the lights etc. Haven't done the gun yet but shouldn't be too much. Will do some touch up painting and the end is not too far off....
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/booms_zps4b10b9f6.jpg)
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Ian,
You have really nailled the "all black scheme contrast challenge" beautifuuly. Having just wrestled with it on my Albie I admire your results, it's a real bear! Seeing your results (and a number of others here) has pushed me even closer to attempting this kit. Nicely done so far!
It doesn't help that I'm presently reading One Spring in Picary as well............
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Lance, I highly recommend this kit.
In the last week I painted and rigged the booms, attached the tail and rudder and fitted to the wings, then tied off the boom/wing rigging. Prop push-fit onto its shaft without glue, may just leave it like this.
Still got a fair but of tidying up and lots of touch up paint to do, then to rig the remaining control lines, assemble and paint the gun and attach the peripheral bits. I must admit the end is almost in sight now. I chose the pics below to illustrate how complex the rigging can look, but in reality it is relatively simple, just lots of it!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/boomrigging2_zps9fb89f65.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/propon_zpsf115c280.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/boomrigging_zpsd4da908f.jpg)
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Having built Fee, I can only confirm - this rigging looks intimidating and overwhelming but it is not so difficult ;)
Great progress, Ian. The end is indeed within your grasp. Go for it!
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What a maze of rigging! I can see why it would be a spider's delight. You've done a spectacular job Ian.
After seeing this, I think I'll leave mine in the box just a little while longer.
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks for the comments PrzemoL & Chris..
Chris the kit may look intimidating especially the rigging, but it is not really difficult if taken in small stages. I am sure you will do this one justice. If I can put this one together, anyone can!
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Made the gun, replaced the barrel end with a short length of .6mm brass tube. Painted with Humbrol metalcote gunmetal, and oiled the pistol grip etc wooden bits. The bag for ejected casings needs dulling down, I think.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/gun_zps5142ee7a.jpg)
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Looks sharp, Ian!
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Nice gun to go with all that spider webbing Ian ;)
Andrew
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Finished the rigging tonight! No pics yet but all lines done. The only lines remaining will be the bomb release cables...
Touch up paint to do, bomb releases to do, and attach the remaining peripherals including this gun, and we're done :)
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Took a few snaps of the model rigged. Will look for a better background when it is finished. I need to re-fit the undercarriage to make it strong enough to stand alone.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/rigged2_zps0bed92e9.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/rigged3_zps14587a7f.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/rigged_zps8de55077.jpg)
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Hello Ian:
I have seen others build this and I admire the work that you are doing. I think what holds me back more than anything is the engine detailing. Eyesight and dexterity notwithstanding, the work you and others have done to the engine is noteworthy. Like Lance I have read "One Spring in Picardy" and want to build one. I think this winter. Yours is coming along nicely and the work is outstanding.
Best
Mark
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Thanks Mark :)
In retrospect, whilst the engine opens itself to more detailing, you could build OOB and only add plug wiring. The engine once installed is never close up once the wings and booms are on. I say go on, build one!
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I dulled down the ammo bag, klear coated the handles, and fitted the gun, bombsite etc. Still a bit of tidying up to do yet...
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/gunfitted_zps7c246f85.jpg)
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Right, I'm calling this one now - can't really do much more. I am sure there are some corrections and touch ups I could do, but I could easily spoil things.
I took off the undercarriage and refitted it, it is stronger now but the whole assembly is still quite flexible. I finished off with the bomb release levers, cables etc. I am not sure if I used the correct levers or routed the cables properly, but I'm happy enough with it. I weathered the wheels a little but the lighting doesn't allow a decent pic just now. The tail skid has a bungee cord loop which doesn't come with the hole, so I drilled that out.
Here's a few more snaps. I'll try and set up some completed pics against a decent background tomorrow, in daylight, on a new thread.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/bomblevers_zps281ab42f.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/FE2b/ruddercloseup_zps0f9ab1af.jpg)
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You've done a magnificent job in this build Ian and you should be proud as a peacock with what you've accomplished. I know I sure would be if it were mine. I'm looking forward to seeing those 'finished' images.
What's next on your agenda?
Cheers,
Chris
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Bravo!
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Outstanding achievement.
Adam.
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Very nice finish Ian. I'm with Chris on two points; ONE-you can be very proud of this model and.............TWO-I'll hold off on attempting this one for a while as well. I may have to break into the Lattice Tail ("Gitter Rumph" I think the opposition called them?) thing with the smaller DH2, which is intimidating enough.
Congatulations on a very nicely executed build on what seems to be a tough Kit to do well!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks everyone :) for the kind remarks.
Chris, not quite sure what's next - I have the WNW Roland supposed to be next, but the Eduard 1:72 profipack twin Dr1 set is itching to be built, as is the 1:48 Revell Dr1, amongst others! I have the Hasegawa 1:8 Le Rhone engine though - that will be relatively quick and will allow me to utilise the metal paints recently bought.
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Hello Ian:
Great job! This kit surely beckons from the stash. I think I will tackle it next. Everyone has posted it is not as intimidating as it looks. Yours turned out really nice. Looking forward to more as you post here.
Best
Mark