forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: lone modeller on June 09, 2014, 07:33:42 AM
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Evening All,
"Taube" means pigeon or dove in German and the name is derived from the shape of the wings, although the original inspiration for this planform came from the leaf of the Zanonia palm. Igo Etrich was an Austrian who, through a series of designs in the first decade of the 20th century, eventually built an aeroplane that became the forerunner of the later Taube models. Although Etrich produced a number of prototypes, it was the two seat design which was produced in significant numbers, although every machine was different as each one was hand-built, and each was an attempt to improve on its predecessor. Later other companies in Germany produced similar aircraft, also called Tauben, but many of these were of simpler construction and had the underwing spar and spar extensions deleted and a markedly reduced amount of rigging, all of which reduced drag and increased speed.
I have built a number of conversions, particularly pusher types, and a scratch build, recently, and I wanted to try a kit for a change so I thought that a tractor monoplane would be a good idea. I have a vacuform of the Etrich Taube which was released in the 1970's but I am not a fan of vacuforms so I bought a Pegasus injection moulded kit instead. A notice on the box says that this kit is not a toy and is only recommended for experienced modellers and collectors: I have been warned.
The kit consists of plastic parts with some white metal parts for the fuselage bulkheads, control column, fuselage pylons and undercarriage legs and what passes for an engine. The spar extensions and struts, axle and exhaust pipes have to be cut from plastic rod and strut material which is provided. Instruction number one states remove all parts from the trees and clean them up. The plastic in this kit is fairly soft so this procedure needs care but is straightforward with a sharp knife. The parts are well moulded for a limited run kit, and except for the engine the white metal parts seem to be quite good too. The engine is a bit crude but as it is mostly concealed I will probably use it as is. The idea of building another engine from scratch just does not appeal to me at the moment. There is a problem with the wings and tail surfaces however as they are much too thick, especially the trailing edges, but as I am not prepared to spend an evening sanding them down I will reduce the thickness of the trailing edges and leave the rest, as much for strength as any other reason.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/35938446110_36b048539d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKKVXd)
This is the kit from the box after I had removed the parts from the trees and done a little cleaning up. The long stringy bits are the rod and Contrail strut material mentioned above, and the white metal parts are bottom left.
The next step is to start painting the fuselage interior and start assembling it. More later.
Thanks for looking.
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Looking forward on seeing how you handle this one .
Terri
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An excellent subject LM, I will be following your build closely.
Des.
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I'll be watching this closely as I have this kit in my stash. If you want a better engine try e-mailing Choroszy, I've bought a few from him at $2 each plus minimal postage!
Ian
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I love the Taube, LM! Such an elegant kite. I'm looking forward to your build.
A notice on the box says that this kit is not a toy and is only recommended for experienced modellers and collectors: I have been warned.
Just be careful not to play with it, then.
Cheers,
Bud
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I love the Taube, LM! Such an elegant kite. I'm looking forward to your build.
A notice on the box says that this kit is not a toy and is only recommended for experienced modellers and collectors: I have been warned.
Just be careful not to play with it, then.
Cheers,
Bud
My aircraft get played with all the time, Bud. Go ahead and play lone modeller, enjoy yourself ;)
John
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Wow this is a fantastic machine, I looked over for 48th kit, but wasn't lucky.
I'll be following your WIP with much interest!
Antonio
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Good luck, LM! Like many others, I'll be following your build with real interest.
Best wishes
Nigel
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I am looking forward to your build! This should be an awesome thread!
RAGIII
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This is no doubt going to be a very impressive build.
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Evening All,
I am not sure about playing with this one Bud and Bolman: the way this has gone so far I have felt like giving it one or two test flights though!
This has been my first experience with a limited run kit so I have been on a steep learning curve recently. I have decided not to replace the engine but to use the one in the kit, together with the other kit parts. I am not sure whether this was the right decision because the result has been a bit of a struggle trying to get the various parts to fit properly. The first problem was to get the bulkheads to fit into the fuselage: they required quite a lot of filing to shape. Then I made a bulkhead to fit between the pilot's and observer's cockpits made from plastic card and a floor was made to fit into the bottom of the fuselage. The hole in the bottom of the fuselage where the control stick will be fitted later also needed enlarging and cleaning up.
The biggest problem was getting the engine to fit. Basically the aperture in the nose is too small because the nose of the model is too short. I could only resolve this problem by extending the hole for the engine back towards the observer's cockpit and then putting a piece of 10 thou card under the engine to lift it a little so that it fits the new hole better. Joining the fuselage halves with the white metal and card interior fittings was also a real juggle and I forgot to take any pictures at this stage as I was concentrating too much on the task in hand. The fuselage join was not too bad considering all things and did not need very much filler although it did need some sanding and filing. The recess for the horizontal tail surface needed to be opened with a knife and file and then the trailing edge had to be thinned to make it more realistic. Again only a small amount of filler was needed on this join.
Finally I drilled a hole through the fuselage to take a piece of wire to hold the wings when they are joined to the fuselage. This will be a butt joint and I am not sure how strong it will be with just plastic cement so I am taking no chances. I will drill holes in the ends of the wings later.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/35938448830_f58dcdc8d0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKKWL7)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/35938447600_5a15fa2e4e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKKWoU)
More later.
Thanks for looking.
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Excellent start, LM! From the photos I would never be able to tell that you were having fit issues. Very solid work, my friend.
Cheers,
Bud
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Excellent start, LM! From the photos I would never be able to tell that you were having fit issues. Very solid work, my friend.
Cheers,
Bud
I agree with BUd 100%
RAGIII
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These limited run kits are definitely a rule unto themselves. No two are alike, but that's what makes them special. Looking good so far!
Ian
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I somehow missed this until now, good to see a Taube being built. It sounds like a challenge but certainly looking good so far.
Tom
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Limited run kits will challenge even the most seasoned modelller , but they are a great base for improving on ones skill and for thinking out side the box .
Shaping up very well so far LM , looking forward on the next up-date !
Terri
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The Taube is starting to take shape nicely, looking like a Taube already, keep up the excellent work.
Des.
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Very good start, LM. You never fail to amaze me with your
beautiful work in the teeny scale. The wire supports for the
wing is a good idea which should pay off later.
Out of curiosity, what size wire did you use?
I am looking forward to more updates on it Taube, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie )
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Great beginning LM.
Martin
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The wire supports for the
wing is a good idea which should pay off later.
Out of curiosity, what size wire did you use?
Cheers,
Ernie )
Thanks Ernie and to the rest of you for the kind comments. Perhaps it is because I know where the problems are that I have a much more critical eye, so it is very re-assuring when modellers of the standard that you represent think that progress so far has been good.
i used florists wire (I was given a small supply gratis) which is black coated soft wire 60 thou diameter. It is stiff enough to form a good support for the wings (and booms on pushers in God's Own Scale) but can also be easily bent if the need arises. I decided to use it because of the other problems that I have had so far - I just do not want the wings to fall off when I am trying to rig it and thus cause me to give up entirely!
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Hello LM:
I am always amazed by the work the modelers on the forum do in 1/72nd. This is no different and I am looking forward to watching you work through this very unique aircraft.
Best
Mark
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Evening All,
Thanks Mark for the kind remarks. Some of us who work in 1/7nd also wonder how you people manage to get such tiny detail into the 1/48th and 1/32nd scales!
I have managed, after a bit of a struggle (not all related to the model), to get the wings on at last. These are grossly over thick so I spent some time trying to sand down the trailing edges but I did not want to make the wings too thin or there would not be a strong enough joint with the fuselage. I have also drilled the holes for the underwing spar, spar extensions and supports at the ends of the wings. The positions for these are marked on the wing surfaces so I drilled the holes before sanding to save having to measure them all afterwards. I also added the fins and rudders - these were cut from 15thou card as the kit parts were basically unusable in my opinion.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/35526448103_c31ef04f62_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W8mkii)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/35938452280_d59747b1c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKKXMA)
The next task is the painting including the national markings as it will not be possible to put the latter on when the underwing spar is in place.
Thanks for looking.
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I love your tiny build with so much work.
Martin
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Absolutely Lovely work! Your build in this scale is awesome to say the least!
RAGIII
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Great job, LM.
I agree with your comment about the detail - the reason I work in 1:72 is that I don't have to add the amount of detail the guys do in the big scales!
Ian
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Very nice work so far :)
Terri
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Outstanding work so far, LM! I love the Taube and I'm looking forward to seeing how you finish her.
Cheers,
Bud
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Lovely work LM. The Taube, with its so distinctive plan must have had such an impact on those on the ground seeing it for the first time.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Evening All,
Thank you for the kind and positive remarks - they are greatly appreciated.
I have completed the painting of the main airframe parts, although there will be more details to finish at a later date. These aircraft were overall clear doped linen with bare metal panels around the nose and upper fuselage between the cockpits. I used a mixture of white with a little Humbrol 81 (ratio of about 3:1 but the exact proportions are not terribly important). I also added a small amount of light grey to give a slightly darker tone of dirty linen. The metal was Humbrol silver with medium grey mixed in - about 3 parts silver to one part grey.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35938455070_6342495d94_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKKYBG)
I hand painted the markings as I do not have a suitable source for them so I chose the simpler early straight sided crosses - painting crosses with curved sides was a step too far! I drew the outlines on the model before scribing them with the point of a set of dividers and then painting with slightly thinned paint. The rudder cross was a bit of a problem - it would have been easier if it had not been on the model but that would have created other problems. To the best of my knowledge there were no other markings on these aircraft, at least I have not seen any on photos.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/35938456470_c2134b72b8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKKZ2Q)
I now realise that I rushed a bit and made a mistake because I added the spar extensions to the wings, tailplane and rudder from thin rod. I should have left these off for the time being as I know that they are going to get damaged with the handling required to fit the undercarriage. We learn best from our mistakes!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35526457463_f901ecbb56_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W8mo5F)
The next stage is to put on the underwing spars and undercarriage which I must say looks as though it will be a challenge.
Thanks for looking.
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Nice work on the crosses! You could have left those off, as the early machines had no markings at all....
Ian
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Very nicely done, the model is now showing the very distinct Taube shape. The colours you used look very good and the markings turned our well, some models had a serial number painted on the side of the fuselage.
Des.
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Very well done all around. I like the color and the work on the crosses is excellent!
RAGIII
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Coming along beautifully, LM! Looking forward to seeing her rigged.
Cheers,
Bud
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Very nice work love this.
Martin
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Hello, I wish I could have followed your thread from the very begining...
I remember hell lot of confusion when I was gathering any piece of information concerning this plane. There is a lot of confusion though. During my research I have found that only two Etrich built Taube were used in the army and the only one I have seen pictures of used - what I think was an Argus engine not the Mercedes D.I which you and me had in the kit. I therefore took the liberty to assume that the second one could used the above mentioned Mercedes D.I (I had the beatuful model of that engine from TaurusModels). The general confusion is that so many variations and variants of Taube planes were built that it is really hard to be certain of majority of things - when it comes to this construction... ;)
The rigging part is ahead of you - a lot of fun beleive me;)
Here you can see what I have managed to build in 1/48: http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=1991.0 (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=1991.0)
Keep up the good work!
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It definitely deserves to be called "a beautiful bird", as no other airplane looks as much as a bird as it does.
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Thanks to all of you for the compliments - I am pleased that you all like it as it gives me an incentive to continue.
Xmald: it seems to me that the confusion and uncertainty is not confined to Etrich Tauben - it seems to apply to most early aircraft. These machines were hand built to an individual order, with the result that customers could specify what they wanted, or the manufacturer decided that an upgrade would make a design better, or someone else decided to add/subtract a bit….and so it went on. Mass production did not really begin in earnest until 1915, and until then there do not seem to have been standard drawings or components. T. Sopwith, in an interview with R. Baxter, said that his early machines were built in the workshop without engineering drawings as we would understand them - they were simply put together according to some specific requirements, span, chord, length, etc, and some general drawings, but quite a lot was left to the craftsmen and then adjustments were made when the aeroplane was wheeled out and tested. The use of different engines was commonplace, and nobody seems to have thought to keep accurate records of all of the variations and variants for the benefit of later modellers and historians.It was the need to mass produce that caused the changes which led to standardised components and designs, and then to systematic classification and typologies.
There is also a problem that early photographic records are not always reliable as sometimes information about photos has been lost. Add to that the fact that company records have also been lost or were somewhat incomplete and you have a minefield for the unwary or those who want to be very certain about something. Different sources will tell you different things about the same incident/machine, so as always it is best to go to the original sources if possible. That is not possible for me so I rely on the accuracy of others, but even then I cannot be wholly certain. Given the circumstances, I think that we do reasonably well, even if we are still confused at the end of it!!
I did not know that only two Etrich Tauben were used by the German army - they certainly used Tauben from other manufacturers. I suspect that it was the underwing spars which made the aeroplanes difficult to service and reduced performance that was the problem. One source I have seen claimed that the spars were removed in service, but I suspect that this is an error and that this has been confused with a Taube from another manufacturer who did not use the underwing spars, but I cannot prove it. The German army did not like several aircraft types and refused to use them, even though the owners offered them for service use. I have based my markings on a photo of an Etrich Taube that did not carry a serial on the fuselage but had the wing crosses without the white squares. What the engine was is impossible to tell from the photo.
Thanks for the link by the way - I have been sneaking looks at your wonderful build as I have been going along - just hope that when mine is finished it will be nearly as good.
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Evening All,
I have made some progress with the underwing spars and have started the undercarriage assembly. Here the kit instructions/diagram are misleading, if not wrong as far as I can see so I have been studying what few photos I can find and Xmald's wonderful build to try to sort it all out.
The underwing spars went on relatively easily - the kit has strut material and rod for the purpose, and a template to cut the lengths. I prefer to measure directly from the model so I put in the king posts first and then measured the spar and glued the latter to the king posts and fuselage. The other supports were then cut to measure. There are marks on the wing showing the positions of the king posts and supports so a quick use of the drill and life was (relatively) easy.
Not so the undercarriage. Much of this is white metal (for strength I suspect) but I decided to abandon the main forward legs and substitute plastic strip instead, The V legs I did use - they went on with superglue and I used some of the rod from the kit for the cross-piece between them. I also put on the forward legs to complete the front part of the structure. Now I am scratching my head to try to work out how I am going to attach the remainder of the structure and get it all square and properly aligned. I know how it should look - just doing it is the problem.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/36198577661_21c5d579e8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/X9KaZX)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35499104864_e0d275452c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W5Wc79)
Thanks for looking.
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She's looking good, LM. The challenge is half the fun though, correct?
Ian
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I agree she`s looking really nice! When it comes to rigging I remember I used various pictures from the Internet - the replica`s from Omaka and other I could find to figure it out. I`m really glad that you like my model.
I`m convinced that your Taube will be a true beauty and a shelf-queen.
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A wonderful work.
Martin
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Very nice LM!
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Marvelous job so far LM , shaping up very nicely indeed 8)
Terri
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Great looking Taube, LM. You are doing marvelous work eliminating obstacles as you progress on this. I believe this will be an absolute "stand out" Model when completed Keep up the excellent work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Evening All,
Thanks again to everyone for the complimentary remarks. You seem to have given me a bit of a boost after I had got somewhat bogged down with the undercarriage, which I managed to sort out with rather fewer problems that I anticipated. It is amazing how relatively simple these things turn out to be when you actually meet them face to face. The drawings and photos made it look terribly complicated, and although it is not simple it was logical in the end.
I started by opening the arms on the undercarriage forks, which are made of white metal, so that the wheels fitted properly and made a main axle from from rod. I inserted the wheels into the forks and glued the axle into place and allowed the whole assembly to dry out. The front forks were then glued to the top of the forward legs and the lower forks to the bottom of the legs and the axle. The tail skid, exhaust pipes, lower fuselage pylon and nose bracing struts have been added. I decided to leave the upper pylon and the upper rudder post until later as they would only get damaged if I fixed them on now. One of the spars on the tail has already been knocked off and I do not want to knock off any more parts if I can help it. Painting has been completed and iI have started the rigging as the photo shows. I thought that pushers had a lot of wires, but this one will certainly have more. However because this is a monoplane at least most of the wires will be relatively accessible - no peering into tiny spaces with tweezers and wire where there is barely enough room for the wire, let alone the tweezers.
I am using rolled copper wire and superglue as I thought that trying to use any form of thread at this scale would be too much of a challenge when it comes to the warping wires on the flying surfaces.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/35499109564_40b051338f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W5Wdvb)
Thanks for looking.
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The gear turned out great and what you have done on the rigging so far is awesome!
RAGIII
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The underwing spar, undercarriage and rigging are all looking superb, you are doing a brilliant job, I look forward to seeing her up on her feet and the top rigging fitted.
Des.
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Looking very good indeed! I'm taking notes on your rigging solutions....
Ian
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Very well done so far with the rigging 8)
Terri
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Evening All,
Thank you all again for the supportive remarks which are greatly appreciated.
I have been plodding along with the rigging and have now completed the undersurfaces. This tested my patience a little but as it does not have to be done by a deadline I put on some wires and then went and did something else. I have already written that most of the wires are accessible which means that although there are a lot of them, none are what I consider to be in difficult places to get to - yet. I have completed the undersurfaces so that I do not have to keep handling the model - you can see from the photos that there are not many places to put one's fingers when it is rigged. I hope too that the photos help to illustrate that provided that the rigging is done systematically, it is possible to complete it without missing any wires, (not that many people would notice if I did, although I can guarantee that someone on this site would!)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/36198580931_329e2d9000_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/X9KbYk)
This image shows that I rigged the wing control wires before I tackled the rear of the aeroplane. I will describe in detail in the next post how I managed to link five wires into one for the wing warping controls - I had intended to show a photo of work in progress and then forgot to take the image! Note that I have repaired the spear extension from the tail.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35499119044_7c191dcbe7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W5WgjC)
I had also rigged the undercarriage because this allowed me to focus on the front end of the model: by doing this I was able to reduce the amount of handling of the model.
The images show the completed underside: I rigged the tail by starting on the forward edge of the right hand side and added each wire in turn around the tail. Then I completed the remainder of the wires underneath. To glue the control wires to the wings and tail surfaces I put a tiny drop of superglue on one end of the wire and another drop on to the attachment point on the model. I had made some small marks with the end of a pair of dividers on the wing and tail surfaces where the control wires were to be attached: this ensures accurate spacing and makes placing the ends of the wires simple. It also marks the place from which to measure the wires. With a little thought and pre-planning rigging can be made a great deal easier than it may look!
I have not counted all of the wires that I have put on, but judging from the time taken there will be many more than on the FB 5 Gunbus which had over 100.
Thanks for looking.
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Very nice progress! Are you planning to paint the wire later?
When it comes to number of wires - I don`t remember the exact number but I think I had to produce around 180 turnbuckles which coresponded to the number of wires ;)
If you are going to do some shading with chalks or oils I think it is better to do it now, later you won`t be able to do properly without damaging the rigging.
I like your Taube more and more!
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You are a better man than me! That rigging is awesome and the numbers are staggering,. All in 1/72nd :D
RAGIII
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I am stunned by the Taube, LM. The general shape is absolutely beautiful
but your work on the rigging is astounding. It doesn't get much better, my friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Wow.
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Looking good, LM!
That rigging is coming along very nicely. As you say, it's a matter of having a logical plan and staying with it. I'm looking forward to your description of how you did the wing warping wires as I'm still trying to figure that one out for my Muromets ailerons....
Ian
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Incredible work on the underside rigging LM, looking forward to seeing you do the top rigging.
Des.
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Beautiful! It must be very satisfying just to have got to this point, when the top rigging is done this is going to look fantastic.
Tom
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WOW, this is truly jaw-dropping! ;) Excellent job on the rigging. What material do you use?
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A most impressive piece of work LM. It's just another lesson for people like me as to what can be achieved by careful planning, a methodological approach and no small measure of skill.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Your rigging is fantastic LM !
Terri
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Evening All,
I have to write that I am a bit lost for words having read the very complimentary remarks from those whom I consider to be among the very best of WW1 modellers. There have been times when I have felt like giving up on this one as I thought that it was going badly, so it is most re-assuring that my judgement is clearly in error when I see problems where others see success. Your supportive comments have kept me on track though and the project is now finally finished.
Ondra: I use 40SWG copper wire rolled flat using a strip of brass rule and a block of hardwood and attach the wires with superglue. I know that other modellers use other wire (electrical usually because that has the advantage of being nearly the correct colour), but I prefer copper as I started using it in an earlier modelling career and simply picked up where I left off when I restarted modelling over 2 years ago. It also has the advantage of being relatively soft and is easy and quick to roll and cut to length.
Xmald: I am not going to try to show weathering on this model - I greatly respect and deeply admire those of you who do - but I seem to lack the artistic skills required to do this kind of work properly. When I have tried to do so the results would put my models straight into the Hall of Shame category so I do not bother. I will also leave the wires as they are - not quite kosher I know but the thought of painting after all the rigging really would give me a nervous breakdown!
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Wow!
That looks superb - great rigging too.
Regards
Dave
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Evening All,
As posted earlier I have now finished this project - I think that I counted about 178 wires in all, but I do not guarantee the accuracy as I may have missed a couple or three! Rigging the control surfaces was interesting but I think that I managed to solve the problem, but my solution would only work with wire, not thread. The method I used was as follows:
For the wing control surfaces I first made small marks on the wings where the wires were to be attached with the point of a pair of dividers. This enabled me to get accurate spacing and positioning. I cut the central wire first and glued this in place, with one end on the wing post. Then I cut one of the wires which would lie next to the central one and put a drop of superglue on each end. Lay one end of the wire in the mark on the wing surface first and then careful attach the other end to the central wire. Repeat this for the third wire on the other side of the central wire. Now add one of the outer wires to one side of the central wire and finally the other outer wire. In all cases the wires have to be measured very accurately and superglue must be put on to the ends of the wires. It is also important to attach one end to the wing first as this allows the wire to be moved easily into place. Here is a close up image of one of the top wing control surfaces - hopefully it will help to clarify my description above.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/36335009945_f2692111f0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmNqyH)
Hopefully you can see that the wires are attached so that they lie alongside each other - in close up it may not look too neat but it is actually similar to the real thing. From a normal viewing distance it looks convincing as I hope other images will show.
For the tail surfaces there is a rather different problem as 8 wires have to be attached to one single wire which in turn is attached to the rudder post. I started by measuring carefully the lengths of the two innermost control wires and then glued these to the tail surface. I then glued the other ends together to make a V. I then cut the connecting wire which runs from the rudder post to the V - this is approx 5mm long. I glued one end of the single wire to the rudder post and the other to the apex of the V using superglue and after about 30-45 seconds I had a structure which I could attach the remaining wires to, using the same procedure as for the wings above, thus:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/36335009135_92f837241f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmNqjK)
(The line near the middle of the image is the edge of the rudder - it is shadow caused by the light).
I also left all of the bracing wires from the spar extensions until the end as otherwise these are easily damaged. A few are also wire to wire attachments but they are relatively easy to get right - just take care with the dividers to get an accurate measurement. Finally I added the propellor because it too would only get in the way. So here it is. I will post more images in the completed models section together with a little history on the type.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/36072789840_33322c0749_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WXCtEq)
Thank you again to all who have contributed with your positive and encouraging remarks, and thanks for looking.
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A beautiful bird and a great build to follow along with! Thank You for sharing this build with us!
RAGIII
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Hello LM:
This is one outstanding build, weathering notwithstanding. To tackle a project like this after only two years of returning to the hobby speaks volumes as to your talent, skill and ability. Truly an outstanding build and your comments are clear and precise.
Best
Mark
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Thank you all again for the very kind remarks.
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I can only add to this by saying it looks fantastic, thank you for sharing it with us.
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What a beautiful a/c. And a fantastic build. Just stunning.
James
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Thank you gentlemen for your kind remarks. Glad you enjoyed the build.
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Wow, very very impressive. This machine really deserves the nickname "bird" as it looks more like a wood and fabric bird than like a plane. The rigging left me speechless...
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Thank you vincentm. The rigging was time consuming but actually easier than on some models I have made, especially some of the pushers, because most of the Taube is easily accessible.
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Wow. Fantastic model. Great craftsmanship with such detail and leave and me without words. This is one of the most beautiful aircraft in 1:72 I've ever seen.
With respect.
Hristo
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Thank you Hristo for your compliments. Coming from a modeller with your skill they are greatly appreciated
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What an achievement, a spectacular model of one of the most beautiful aircraft to ever take to the skies, congratulations on a superb job.
Des.
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Thank you Des for the kind remarks - they are greatly appreciated. Yes some of these early machines had a real grace in their lines, and the Tauben were certainly certainly good looking
machines.
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Great job on the rigging mate! It`s a very good looking Taube!!!
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Thank you for the compliment Filip.
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An exellent build on this little scale.
Martin
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Thank you Martin. In my opinion the small scales are the best!
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Well, this is just jaw-dropping!
A great job indeed, I admire your skills. Thumbs up and my hats off to you.
Cheers
Ondra
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Thank you for the kind remarks. Rigging this was not as difficult as some may think - just took a long time! However all of those wires do catch the eye.
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LM,
You've done it again! Absolutely magnificent work and a tribute to your tremendous modelling skills; what else can I say?!
Cheers,
Lance
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Stunning model. I think this explains why WNW have not released a Taube in 1/32, the rigging would simply be overwhelming for most modellers. It makes the Fee & DH.2 look simple in comparison!
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Thanks Lance and Dekenba for the compliments. You are probably right about the rigging putting a lot of modellers off but some of the later Tauben had simplified schemes which can be realistically modelled and still give an authentic finish. It may surprise you to read that I found rigging the FE2 and DH 2 more difficult at times because they are biplanes and there is less room to move and at times more difficult to see. At least with a monoplane everything is relatively accessible - even the underwing spar was easy to get to. The only tricky bit was the warping wires but once I had devised the method even that was simpler than it looks.