forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: jknaus on May 27, 2014, 10:54:21 PM
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I saw a build here where the fellow had what looked like PE ignition leads terminal lugs. Wish I could remember which build. If I remember correctly it looked like you could slip them over a 1/32 spark plug. Does anyone know where you could get this PE set? Which company makes the set, or maybe they were home built. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
James
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Whenever you are in doubt about an outstanding detail you have seen, check Bos' Albatros! ;D
RAGIII
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I don't think there is a commercial set available containing the lugs -- but I could be wrong. :)
I made mine from .5mm tube, squashed at the end & drilled. Next time I will use .4mm:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file_zps9bca17c3.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file_zpsd8e1dd4f.jpg)
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Thanks guys. I found it in your build, not what I was looking for, but very useful anyways. I went and tried one using Lion Roar tubing but broke another drill. Might be too hard. Do you use Albion and is it softer? Next thing is how you got the rounded end. Did you file it after it was cut and squashed or did you squash, file then cut? Finally how do you drill the tubing without drill bits breaking and in a straight line? Could it be that I am using tubing that is to hard to work with? I appreciate the help Bo.
James
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the tubing was probably Albion -- honestly not sure, I have tubing from several suppliers.
At any rate, I doubt the hardness of the brass is at issue-- carbide is much much much harder and will easily cut "half hard" brass which is the hardest temper you are likely to run across. In fact fully tempered brass is still much softer than carbide. If anything, being too soft is more of a problem as the bit might have a tendency to bind. But I digress :)
The exact tools I used will probably be of little use because you won't likely have the same stuff lying around. No matter. It's the principle that is important.
To do this successfully you need to think outside the box a little bit and construct a jig. If you are drilling by hand, you have to figure out a way to support the tool so that it can only move in the Z plane. Ron Kootje made this drilling jig for a similar task*:
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h322/Ronkootje/Caproni%20Ca3/DSC_0161.jpg)
of course if you are fortunate enough to have a drill press or a small mill, your task is simplified and you only have to worry about accurately clamping the workpiece. Here are some hints:
1) cut the part to size after the drilling operation. Duh? This way you will have ample meat to clamp or otherwise secure.
2) Consider gluing or taping the workpiece to the support instead of clamping.
3) Bonus, Million Dollar Hint: CA dissolves in Acetone. Brass and wood don't. ;)
You asked about the workflow, here it is:
1) cut off about 3" of tube to work with
2) smash end of tube with flat pliers
3) put tube into support jig (I happened to have made a support with lego blocks and some other stuff, would do it differently next time)
4) drill
5) trim end, shape with file & sandpaper, polish with steel wool
6) cut part from tube
7) repeat
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*By the way -- newcomers: this log is a must:
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=533.msg8968#msg8968
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Okay too easy. I'll try this again with the tips you've given me. It should be easier working in bigger pieces as well and then cutting to size. Really appreciate the help, thanks :)
James
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Another way is to use photo etched turnbuckles (Like from Part) just cut off the end at a suitable length