forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: GrahamB on April 16, 2014, 06:27:18 PM
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Hi,
thought it was time I attempted a build log. This might be slow-going though. The Roland CII is a peach although deciding on a colour scheme is the hardest part - but how to achieve it is on a par.
Two hours spent on removing 95% of the fuselage interior parts and first clean up.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/072_zpsce5f9dd0.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/072_zpsce5f9dd0.jpg.html)]
Removal of the forward louvres (CIIa only) was tricky and the tape masking was a help but not a fail-safe guarantee of preventing collateral damage.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/074_zpsf02bcf15.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/074_zpsf02bcf15.jpg.html)]
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/076_zpsd23a81fd.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/076_zpsd23a81fd.jpg.html)]
Decided to add strips instead of the indented lines on the inner fuselage - as per original. Used ordinary computer printer paper but I should have used some thinner museum-quality 'tissue' for more realistic 'scale' results. Glued with an artists' gloss varnish then sealed with a coat of Vallejo polyurethane. Some lines a bit wobbly but once the fuselage frames are added this breaks up the problem areas.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/077_zpseb37beb4.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/077_zpseb37beb4.jpg.html)]
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/078_zps306a7c9f.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/078_zps306a7c9f.jpg.html)]
Painted-up and nearly done instrument panel (just switches to add to the four indicators on right) - decided to go with wood rather than paint here as Datafile photo looks like this. Floor option in wood is just a choice.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/080_zpsdee135fe.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/080_zpsdee135fe.jpg.html)]
Next is setting up the cockpit/fuselage interior - some tricky wiring/tube-work needed but hopefully it can be done with the frame assembly alone.
This is so good - the minute decals for the cockpit components are just unbelievable and show WNW's amazing attention to detail.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Very nice. Now I'm waiting mines arrival even more keenly.
Thanks for the couple of tips already I will follow your build with great interest
Keith
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Nice start, wood painting looks great, I'll be watching your progress.
Adam.
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You have made a great start Graham, I'm sure there will be many eyes watching this build.
Des.
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Yes indeed, nice start, following with keen interest...
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Excellent work Graham! Thanks for blazing this trail and sharing your efforts with us. :D
Cheers,
Bob
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Great start, Graham. Your wooden pieces look gorgeous. Well done!
I will enjoy following your build.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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You are very fast. As some others already have commented: Nice woodwork.
Something i didn't catch: why did you do this paper-strip thing? Could you please explain that (again)?
Thank you,
Stefan
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Very nice start - great to see the Walfisch being built.
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Very cool. Still waiting for mine. I'll watch this with interest.
James
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There is a photo on page 29 of the datafile that clearly shows that the joints between the strips of wood were sealed with linen tape, i.e. raised, not recessed as moulded. Just another of those slightly annoying things that you'd think Wingnuts would get right, a bit like the Pfalz DIIIa undercarriage legs, Albie cockpit handles, and lots of other little things they seem to miss. They really should employ someone a bit 'OCD' to notice them. ;)
Not to side track Graham's excellent Thread but tell me more about the "Albie cockpit handles" Justin. I must have missed some earlier references, and I've got 3 various Albatri's in Stash mode.
Great start Graham, the wood work and added detail with the strips look excellent.
Cheers,
Lance
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Excellent start as all of the others have noted. Your wood grain looks great and the representation of the fabric strips is terrific!
RAGIII
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Nice beginning GrahamB.
Martin
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There is a photo on page 29 of the datafile that clearly shows that the joints between the strips of wood were sealed with linen tape, i.e. raised, not recessed as moulded. Just another of those slightly annoying things that you'd think Wingnuts would get right, a bit like the Pfalz DIIIa undercarriage legs, Albie cockpit handles, and lots of other little things they seem to miss. They really should employ someone a bit 'OCD' to notice them. ;)
Not to side track Graham's excellent Thread but tell me more about the "Albie cockpit handles" Justin. I must have missed some earlier references, and I've got 3 various Albatri's in Stash mode.
Great start Graham, the wood work and added detail with the strips look excellent.
Cheers,
Lance
I'm also be interested in learning about the issue with the Pfalz D.III undercarriage. First I've heard of it.
Thanks,
Eric
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I have always been intrigued by this aircraft - the fuselage windows really set it apart. Thinking about getting one soon (along with a couple others - Triplane, DH9,....) I'll be looking in things progress.
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Thanks guys.
I've crept slowly towards a wood-effect technique that works for me but it's only the tried-and-true 'oils-over-acrylic'. On the instrument panel and lower floor I used Vallejo airbrush Wood as a base, on the main floor it was Vallejo Desert Yellow. I did the streaking in two layers of oil (burnt sienna and raw umber) separated by a layer of clear acrylic. I try and keep 'streaking' to a minimum and use only the smallest of my brushes and quite dilute oil - it's more changes in intensity and tone than actual 'grain'. Tried some light dry-brushing of MIG Black Smoke powder in places where there might be more wear - near rudder pedals, base of observer's position - very pleased with this!
WEM Light Slate Grey for the petrol tank etc - for some reason I've found this a really good and versatile colour for all sorts of purposes.
I'll try and keep up - but some will probably overtake soon.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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i thought you meant the handles on the control panels of the wnw kits, mostly to control fuel on/off from different tanks on some kits they give you a handle on others they mold a long skinny bump and fashion notched decals around them ratherthan giving ya separate handle. small but irritating.
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Wonderful start Graham, I like your wood tones very much. Excellent work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Graham:
Nice to see this on the Forum. I like your wood tones. Wood tones are something I am always toying with, each one is different and I like your approach to it. I will be following this with interest as I am not sure I want one of these but..........they are neat. I am thinking more along the Camo lines. Looking forward to your next update.
Best
Mark
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It's exciting to see this one being built so soon and so well. I've got one on the way and look forward to watching what you do with yours. Your doing a brilliant job and I really like how you've represented the wickelrumpf.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hi,
some progress and I'll put more photos up later today or tomorrow - realised that I need the engine up and running before I can close the fuselage. I decided to have a go with the Taurus Merc III upgrades even though not much will be seen. I have a simple diorama in mind so could leave a panel off.
There is quite a complex but effective cockpit-frame setting up and a few things need some attention - and paint removal before fitting. Also I can see that I will need to fit the frame assembly into the port fuselage half first so that wiring can be added from part B3 (junction box?) to the voltmeter (B22) and the aerial cable from B82/90 to A34.
Will be doing the option E markings but with colour scheme more like that of B 'Meerkat' - more on this later.
Cheers,
Graham
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Hi,
some more progress over the Easter break. Most of the interior is completed now and I've taken shots before I mate the left and right sides together. For the interior I used Vallejo Modelcolor 990 Light Grey with a bit of 900 Mirage Blue to darken it (even though 990 is supposedly a match to WNW's suggestion of FS25237 - I find that Vallejo sprays out quite a bit lighter than brushed out swatches).
Some details added to the kit items (based on Datafile photos) are rudder foot rests (fusewire) and petrol and other switches on right of the instrument panel (fusewire and aluminium pie-dish). Added the cabling to the control column (UvR line) and a small slice of white(?) decal to the center-datum on top of the wheel itself.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/005_zpsdc4f5b67.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/005_zpsdc4f5b67.jpg.html)]
The rudder cabling I used some Unithread (but thicker than their Caenis line) but then realised I couldn't pass it through the rear tubing later so terminated this on the fuselage frame behind pilot's seat. Remember that the cable goes right around the pedal assembly - this was grooved on the outer curved elements on the real thing so purists could attempt this. I managed one complete run from port side to starboard side with only four small anchor points of superglue. In the Datafile photos it can be seen that the rudder cables are partly protected with tubing in the rear cockpit and I used 0.3mm brass tube for this and attached it to the frame that fits behind the rear window - it should just clear the dynamo lever and rod.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/007_zps1ad49807.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/007_zps1ad49807.jpg.html)]
I switched to the medium UvR thread as I could just insert it into the tube but on other side I had to use steel wire that passed through completely - this will have to be attached forward and aft after the right frame is added. I added a dynamo lever rod from the rear cockpit lever to the pilot's lever but this was actually bent around an upright - I would recommend drilling through or putting a proper dog-leg kink in the rod. The forward end from pilot level to dynamo will be added after the engine is inserted.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/010_zpsbae0a5a8.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/010_zpsbae0a5a8.jpg.html)]
After my last post I realised I could add the cabling from the 'junction box' to the voltmeter before putting the frame assembly in the port fuselage half - lead wire is perfect for this (and colour) and will be just nudged into place later. It needs to bend around the dynamo lever behind the rudder cable and lever rod, then alongside the window frame - OK when the assembly is in place in the fuselage half. I will add some copper wire for the aerial lead in the same way.
My biggest bugbear at the moment is with fitting etched seat belts. I try and do a nice job with 'leather' etc on the seats, get decent 'fabric effect on the seat-belts themselves but then cover the former over with the seat-belts and also find that the bloody things are hard to stick in place without serious removal of paint - doh!
Also grappling with the engine, learning the hard way how to deal with the Taurus upgrades. I made the mistake of adding the valve springs first then the long assembly on top - of course the springs were almost all slightly out of alignment so I will have to redo these. Ugh.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/013_zpsdb7cd120.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/013_zpsdb7cd120.jpg.html)]
Looking good now - next time engine will be in and ready to get fuselage up and ready for painting.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Looks, excellent, and I am taking notes for technique. Thank you.
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Fantastic Work! Your interior is beautiful and though I am not sure what a Dynamo lever is I am sure it is part of what makes your interior look so great :o
RAGIII
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Hi,
Sorry, the 'dynamo levers' are those two on the port side and are 'wireless generator clutch' levers (parts A51 and A53) in the WNW instructions.
Forgot to say that WNW have kindly made small holes in parts D17 (rudder cable rollers) for rigging but I drilled completely through these so that the cable can be one piece. If I had been really clever to start off with I could have run it from the frame behind the observer's position port to starboard in one - but see foul-up with line thickness/tubing. Next time...............
Cheers,
GrahamB
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You are doing a great job on the Roland, Graham. I'm enjoying your build
log and looking forward to the next updates.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Wonderful work Graham, one of the cleanest finishes I've seen on an interior. It's just, well, er, what else can I say, Great! Looking forward to following you through to completion.
Cheers,
Lance
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Your build is coming along beautifully Graham, looking forward to more updates.
Des.
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Very very nice.
James
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Hello Graham:
I like the work and the extra detail you have provided in the cockpit. Like Lance said, very clean and nice.
Best
Mark
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It looks very good your build Graham.
Martin
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Lovely and I'm still taking notes ;)
Keith
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Nice, clean build! My two C.IIs arrived in Saturday's mail and I intend to begin work on one of them as soon as I finish the interior on my Fokker D.VII F. (Yes, it's still progressing :) ).
Mark G.
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Hello Graham,
Very neat interior, wonderful work and may I repeat that your wood grain is superb?
Kind regards
Patrick
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Very nice looking interior on of my all time favourites!
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This is coming along beautifully Graham. La Poste tried to deliver my CII this morning. Naturally enough I was out.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Thanks all. I'm seeing that I can settle into this niche of modelling very comfortably and happily now - perhaps with the occasional diversion to a WW1 ship model or one of the new-generation Airfix WW2 aircraft.
I am really enjoying this Roland kit partly because it makes me want to look harder at the relatively few published photographs. The colour scheme is truly a "riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma" to quote WC and my interpretation is one of several possibilities. Will take the plunge in the next day or so after the engine is fitted and the fuselage closed up.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Hi,
well some little progress along the way but I've finally bumped into my inadequacies.
[(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/001_zps590e5ef5.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/001_zps590e5ef5.jpg.html)]
I finished the internals and the engine and mated right and left frames. This was slightly delicate but they do go together nicely. I had to remember to insert the port side lug of the observer' seat base into the port frame, carefully avoiding the rudder cable tube. Then had to do same when attaching the right frame. In retrospect in might be better to attach the two tubes (but previously rigged) after the two halves come together.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/004_zps9300e214.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/004_zps9300e214.jpg.html)
I remembered to attach the header tank/radiator pipe (part F12) before the next step. Then the problems began. I fitted the two main fuselage halves together and taped them up - there was no issue with closure due to misaligned internals or the 'laminations'. Then the tail unit was attached B13 - my little world of pain started. In my neglect/binding of Tamiya tape I had not checked that the two halves were perfectly aligned. I saw that the port side was a hair's breadth in advance of the starboard side and at the tail apex was a hair's breadth too low. This meant that B13 did not fit without leaving slight gap all around. Some Surfacer 500 and Tamiya putty came to the rescue but I'm not sure how well until I get a primer coat on. PLEASE, PLEASE check this as it is crucial - it is surprisingly quite difficult to restore a smooth unblemished surface. Fortunately there is a transverse band around the rear of B15 and B16 that allows thin putty to be run alongside but there is risk in sanding. B---er!
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/008_zps13a94fdc.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/008_zps13a94fdc.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/018_zps7d3542da.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/018_zps7d3542da.jpg.html)
I next attached the upper fuselage panel F4 after earlier painting the inner part of the cockpit coaming in my leather colour, and the lower part (B17) after drilling out & away the two bomb nose cones. Again there are several seams to deal with - four on upper part and two long complex joins on lower. The fitting of these could have been better on my part and again I think one needs to spend time carefully checking the fit before committing to glue and fix. I have yet to tidy up the seams but the upper will be fairly decent.
Then the next boo-boo - this is becoming a farce - I was idly looking at the WNW instructions and photographs and noticed that an oil filler tube and cap protrudes through a cowling panel (A54) on the right side. I couldn't see it on my model. This stupid boy had not realised that there was an oil tank, A20, to be fitted before closing up the fuselage frames! I think I was looking at stage 4 in the instructions without noticing the oil tank diagram below - there is a mismatch in the drawings showing the engine installed.
I will now have to cut the tank horizontally in half (where it wraps around the water tube) and insert in from above - trompe d'oeil rather than real.
Another couple of hints:
Don't bother attaching the rear lever E12 to the engine as it blocks the insertion of the upper wing tabs. I could force it out the way but will probably just cut notches in the two tabs. It can't be seen anyway - but purists might want it there.
If using the Taurus spark plugs (or any others) don't attach the forward left-hand plug until late in the build - it makes masking of the engine (for fuselage painting) difficult as it just protrudes over the lip of the fuselage side. I'll have to snap mine off and replace it later.
Oh well - this is not as simple as it looks - bring on a BE2 any day!
Cheers,
Graham
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Brilliant work on the interior, Graham! Both cockpit and engine are fantastic. Coming from the world of 1/48 scale limited run kits, I came to expect a little filler and sanding. Perfect fit is rare. Don't worry about a wee bit of misalignment as I'm sure it will be unnoticeable in the end. Keep up the great work.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hi Bud,
Ta. Yes I think the curved Roland fuselage design/wing attachments are a difficult one for kit designers anyway but I probably rather rushed this aspect and created problems for myself.
Just a small correction to the piece above. Regarding E12 lever - WNW do cleverly provide a slot on the lower surface of the left wing root tab to accommodate it but it is a tight squeeze and my E12 came off (perhaps exaggerate the angle a little when fitting though?). I also thought that the upper edge of the dashboard would interfere with the tabs but these are cut out to slide in front and are shortened at the rear (just - perhaps shave a beveled edge a bit more for safety and reducing the strain/forces when inserting). Dry fit looks OK on my right wing but I'll need to level the vertical mating surface of my left fuselage wing root profile. I think this is another place where some real care is needed - to squeeze in the fuselage halves gently to match part F4.
I think the worst is over after I've cleaned up - the painting kerfuffle begins!
Cheers,
Graham
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Looking good. Nice to see where I have to pay more attention when I start mine. Cant wait to see the paint on.
James
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All the internals, framework and engine look extremely well done Graham, the fuselage seems to be coming together very well apart from your few little hiccups along the way, we all have these annoyong little issues when building our models. Looking forward to seeing the next updates.
Des.
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Great work! looking forward to updates.
Hary
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Graham,
In a word OUTSATNDING! Looks absolutely Terrific!
RAGIII
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Great progress Graham.
Unfortunately, or fortunately being the first to build a kit means you stumble across the little niggles unprepared. I have to thank you for pointing them out for us along the way.
WNW have often been criticised by some for their instructions, it's not unexpected to miss a bit here or there ;) Hours spent reading them in the office (sittin on the loo) sometimes is an advantage.
I've started mine. I jump about doing mini constructions of sub assemblies so if you haven't got there and are using the covered parrabellum magazine option note that the main drum body is misnumbered it isn't G15 as stated its on sprue A with the other magazine parts.
As their tolerances are so fine theres little room to wiggle and jiggle parts and if you do get them out of line they can be a real headache to sort. Often it only comes to light much further down the construction line. As you are finding out.
Anyone thinking of building option C should note the need to scratch a new header tank it's so blatantly clear in the pic in the construction manual I dunno how WNW failed to spot it.?
Option A, theres a funny arrangement just below & in front of the left observers window, maybe reinforcing for something fitted inside or a strange repair. It's clear as day to a toilet sitter...lol ::)
Keith
Anyone choosing to use the lovely flare racks are going to have to guess/scratch the window and inside of the flare holders.
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A thought on the oil tank if you haven't done it yet. If the cowls aren't yet on just trim the neck off and fit a dummy part to stick it to inside the cowl... Wait that's kind of what you will do with the half tank.... ;D
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Your interior looks very nice. Great to see your build Graham.
Martin
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Hello Graham:
As has been stated, you are treading on unfamiliar turf. The comments and observations duly noted and appreciated. I am sure in the finished product, you will be amazed at how it all comes together. Outstanding work thus far. I can surely appreciate and relate to Keiths Loo Studies! ;)
Best
Mark
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Graham,
Great to see a build of the CII on the forum.
I have been waiting to see who would begin first.
Keep up the good work-watching with interest.
Best wishes
DiD :)
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Outstanding interior Graham. This is a lovely build!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hi again.
Thanks for all the encouragement. The kit is really very nice and I've only let it down in a few places.
Since last time progress has been quite rapid but erratic. I've started to paint various sub-assemblies such as u/c, spinner, main wing struts etcs in my choice of main aircraft colour. Still to be 'weathered'/highlighted. See the chopped-in-half oil tank!
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/005_zps4176274c.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/005_zps4176274c.jpg.html)
Without wanting to spark off a long and contentious thread here I've decided on a basically 'white' scheme, i.e. one dominated by CDL (bleached or plain) but with a twist that I will mention next time. I am still undecided if the main fuselage structure was painted 'yellow-beige' or was unbleached CDL with 'yellow-beige' painted metal elements. The uniformity might suggest the former. In any case I have chickened out doing separate colours for these and have used Humbrol 103, slightly lightened with white - but will modify the fabric-over-wood areas to suggest some difference in underlying material/surface treatment. I think this is a great colour.
For the upper wing surfaces I am going with bleached CDL and 'yellow-beige' metal bits - here being masked off (once you have masked deck areas etc on a 1/700 ship you get used to this kind of thing). I've used Mr Hobby Aqueous 311 Grey FS36622 here. It looks very like some swatches of bleached linen, with a slight greenish cast. At a later date I'll paint the rib-tapes a brownish unfinished linen colour - then might apply a very thin overall whitish 'tinted dope'.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/003_zpsff907cb4.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/003_zpsff907cb4.jpg.html)
The fuselage is now sealed up and primed - the repairs to the rear are not bad. I've also added a small round port-cover (with BareMetal foil) under the fuselage behind the bomb apertures - seen on photos. Some later shots of the CIIa show a larger, more oval, panel (both perhaps covering a camera port?). Also an aperture/panel for the trailing aerial - again on photos and I've approximated it with two discs of 0.05 card. I will be doing the model with the two forward windows dropped down so have filled the openings with a piece of card and some liquid mask.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/001_zps4c2ae3d7.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/001_zps4c2ae3d7.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/007_zps011fa186.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/007_zps011fa186.jpg.html)
Getting quite excited now as it all starts to come alive and together.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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It looks very good your work Graham.
Martin
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Good progress, Graham. Your choice of colours will make for a
very attractive model, in my estimation. Looking forward to the
next updates.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hello Graham:
You are making good progress and I will be watching to see how you do the final finish. I am on the fence on this release, not sure which one. I know get them both! ;)
Best
Mark
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All eyes. You are making it hard for me to keep my promise to me of finish 1 first before starting another.
James
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Hi chaps,
been a slight hiatus in this project - somewhat preoccupied with family stuff and work. Still I have some major painting completed and have some detailed highlighting and other bits to do before bringing the major components together.
The fuselage was painted pale blue beneath as I can see several photos in the Datafile and WNW archives with a similar, but not identical, pattern as the Roland CIIa and DII airframes in the factory photo. I suspect this was tinted dope (as per Fokker F1/DR1 - an ethereal silvery blue? Here the colour is too strong and I later painted over it with a slightly paler colour but I'm still not happy. To simulate some of the underlying laminate strips I used brown marker pens (Faber-Castell PITT artist pen Dark Sepia and Raw Umber) - allowed it to dry thoroughly then sealed it with Vallejo polyurethane varnish
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/005_zps401a99a7.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/005_zps401a99a7.jpg.html)
Then I applied the CDL/yellow beige mix mentioned before - Humbrol 103 tinted with some white.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/016_zps48345437.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/016_zps48345437.jpg.html)
The underside of the wings I suspect may have been the WNW suggestion of blue-dyed fabric - some photos seem to show untreated rib tapes as well as fairly translucent fabric. I used the artist's pen again to do the main spars. Then some Mr Hobby white with tiny touch of H5 (Blue) and H49 (Violet) until the spar lines were just visible. On photos there is an opaque panel behind the cross - but probably not white - so I just masked this off and added another coat of the pale blue to completely obscure the 'internal structure' - on the real thing this may have been application of tinted dope (as per fuselage underside?). All speculation! I'm not too happy with the end result - the subtlety is beyond my artistic capabilities.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/003_zps10915cee.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/003_zps10915cee.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/017_zps5f333a90.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/017_zps5f333a90.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/018_zpsaf2d0eec.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/018_zpsaf2d0eec.jpg.html)
The little panels are all painted the 'yellow-beige' but there are some tiny circular things to do still. Next step is going to be tedious - mask and paint all the thin rib-tapes in a darkish buff/untreated linen colour.
Starting to come together. Things will get less toy-like as the highlighting/washing phase comes in but I'll keep this low-key as the Roland air-frames look quite clean - apart from the weathered examples showing their fuselage laminates through the fabric.
On we go...........
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Very good progress Graham, outstanding build!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Very nice work and an interesting thread. The Roland looks like more tempting and likely purchase in a near future!
Mikael
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The next beautiful update Graham.
Martin
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Hello Graham:
I agree with Mikeal. Very nicely done. I like your use of the artists pens. I use them as well for laminate on the props and other small details. Your work is inspiring and like Mikeal, a Roland CII/CIIa just may be a near future purchase.
Best
Mark
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Great work on the painting. I think your pens have worked well! I am still trying to wrap my brain around the "New" ideas on the finish of these birds ! Beautiful painting all the same!
RAGIII
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Wonderful work on the Walfisch, Graham. You are making great
progress and it is looking terrific. Very good idea about using the
artist pens!
Cheers.
Ernie :)
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Hi Walfisch fans,
some progress but it is a case of two steps forward, one step back.
I've started the adding the decals to the wings after having masked and painted all the rib-tapes (Tamiya Flat Earth - possibly too strong?) and glossed the surfaces. The underside wing crosses (112 x2) went on very well apart from snagging the raised 'pimple' under the inner bar. I really don't like putting decals over these things - see more later. If I did this again I'd remove it then replace after the decal was applied.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/001_zpsf19b0cf3.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/001_zpsf19b0cf3.jpg.html)
Then the upper wing crosses (1-4)...........
I tried the starboard wing first but I could see straight away there were going to be problems because of the complex and quite severe curvature of the outer wing. Here were several creases and folds that I couldn't eliminate, even by making a few cuts in the decal. I used some Micro Sol as well but as it dried it was not going to go well ( or so I guessed) - there were two raised pimples again that do not help the decal settle well. I gave up and, rather than risk the horror of scraping a dried decal off, I removed it while still slightly wet. Also I had realised that it was pointless to have painted the aileron hinges and plate yellow as they would be largely covered by the black cross!
So, I cut off the two round pimples but drilled a slight depression in each so that I could locate them and replace them after the decal had been attached. Masked off and painted the white panel, glossed, ready to go. As for decals I now had an untouched port wing cross/panel (1,2) and starboard aileron decal (4). The black cross areas were cut out using a scalpel and some very good decal scissors (from Micromark). For the starboard main cross I used 52 from the 'C' option as it was same size and shape.
This may all be my inexperience with large decals and this type of subject and perhaps I should have had faith that the WNW decal would have settled down perfectly.
Fuselage almost ready for decals apart from painting the cockpit leather coaming. In the end, my finish of the yellow-beige was p..s-poor due to an overly thick and dusty 'orange peel' coat of the Humbrol enamels so I had to gently sand it back in places and re-coat. This meant that my pre-shading almost disappeared but I've now emphasied (or tried to) the linen areas by using the oil-dot method. White, yellow (very tiny amounts) and grey-brown dots were applied then I've streaked them gently in an oblique fashion. Not too bad, but this is going to be a 2-foot model (not to be studied at distances less than this).
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/003_zps612525dd.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/003_zps612525dd.jpg.html)
This is all glossed since taking the photo and next time I hope that everything will be 'decal-ed', wings attached to fuselage and ready for rigging.
Phew!
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Lovely work, Graham.
Thanks for the heads up on the crosses - I will cut my own using my vinyl cutter ;) No need to worry about raised details getting in the way 8)
Keep going!
BVB
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Mr Von Buckles,
How about cutting 0.8mm wide self adhesive lines of sign vinyl to apply to the inside of the fuselage to correct the joints?
That would be super easy, RB. ;)
I will need to get my hands on the kit before I start firing up the vinyl cutter, but this should be no problem.
Cheers,
BVB
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The next nice update and painting Graham.
Martin
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Graham,
An excellent update. I am sure that in spite of your tribulations with the upper wing cross you will overcome your difficulties and produce a beautiful finished product. The fuselage looks excellent! Your subtle use of the oils seems to have worked well!
RAGIII
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Hi,
thanks - I need some encouragement. I am still struggling with decals - perhaps I need to have done more before learning the hard way on a treasure like a WNW kit? I think the Roland does present difficulties as I've snagged a couple of more issues - see next post for places to watch - but I'm finding some ways through - belatedly in some areas though. Such as cutting off hindrances like small tabs of decal that go over movable flying-surface hinges. It is easier to paint these rather than try and get the decal to sit properly. Even cutting them out completely so that decal surrounds, not overlies, details like this; using a punch as well for the circular fittings, but careful measurement and dry fit is needed. So many times this build I've had decals 'tenting' over small fittings etc rather than conforming. I have had to resort to gentle burnishing afterwards to 'pursuade' them into line. Another related problem is that a few of the decals' outer edge sit over small fittings -the fuselage cross panels for example. They hate this and some touch-up was unavoidable on once side.
But, it is looking pretty now with its spots on - I wonder if they were attempting the look of a salmonid (trout) parr? The radiator housings were painted red on this example to mimic the gill slit no doubt.
Still wondering about the 'structure' ahead of the observer's cockpit as shown on the profile. I'll fashion a hoop since it is probably a gun-deflector/guard.
Nearly there.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Graham,
Just wondering if it might be feasible to attach the hinges after decaling? I wind it interesting in that WNW provided cutouts for the Albatros Crosses where they were going over the hinge cover area, wonder why not on this one?
RAGIII
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Ragiii
WNW have put cut out for the control arms but they are thinner than the moulded on arm on the aileron itself. Anyone else building might want to open both these gaps and the one on the rudder a little to make life easier for themselves. As for the tiny tab of decal over the hinges themselves I'm going to trim those off and touch up with paint prior to applying weathering etc.
Graham I can understand your frustration with the decals conforming to details. I use a non lint type kitchen towel soaked fairly hot water and press the decal down after pin pricking around the offending point. This seems to melt the decal a little and force it to conform though often enough the tip if the bolt/stud. whatever the detail is will break through if its large. But then I touch it up.
I love what you are doing to the wings and hope you get those fuselage woes sorted.
Keith
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Looks great Graham, can't wait to see it with wings on!
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Hi,
thanks Keith for the tip about decal application. I also think that the advice/instructions to use warm water (how warm?) is really sound as it does seem to make a difference.
As for the Roland, the port side fin cross decal (19 or 16?) is the worst to fit. A lot is asked of this: it has to set straight against the rudder line, the hinge tabs have to settle properly, it meets the change from flush vertical to a rounded fuselage that is itself on an angle, then has to cope with an oval access panel and small cut-out resting over the elevator rod hole. Needless to say, mine got damaged and I'll have to touch up where it goes over the panel. For the starboard side it was easier (no raised panel) and I also cut off the hinge tabs. There is slight issue in that one needs to retouch a small angle tip of the black cross on the upper hinge though. Another time I would mask and paint all the white panels and source or cut out the crosses (as I did for the starboard upper wing).
If you are doing this option - 'E' - take care that the port side black disc (68) settles down over and into the footstep. I'm left with some 'tenting' in the aperture and will have to cut this out and paint it black/scuffed metal. The pricking/hot water/ kitchen-towel technique would be perfect for this.
Might get a photo or two of 'Spotty' up-loaded today, now with lower wings, rudder and elevators attached. No problems here.
Cheers,
Graham
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The build is looking great, Graham. I like the oils treatment. Super job,
despite the bumps along the way.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hi,
Spotty now being assembled.
There is still some touching-up to do on the footstep under the large black disc decal on port side, the inner window edges to be tidied up, the cockpit coaming edge to be cleaned up etc. etc. The red on the port radiator is left unfinished as it's going to be a part of the 'diorama theme' - I'm using a couple of the Kellerkind groundcrew figures including the guy with a paint brush. WNW show photos of Spotty before and after these were painted red.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/003_zpsb76608d1.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/003_zpsb76608d1.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/002_zps06e86697.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/002_zps06e86697.jpg.html)
Finished all the sub-assemblies including the ocharina exhaust and propeller/spinner.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/001_zpsb47f7ddf.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/001_zpsb47f7ddf.jpg.html)
I used Aclad burnt exhaust on the former, then brushed on MIG Light Rust and Black Smoke powders. The red bars on the prop are decal strips from the WNW sheet - just right.
Before I go further I'm going to spend a happy hour or two making some Bob's Buckles style 'turnbuckles' from 0.1 mm copper wire and get these all fixed before putting on the upper wing. I don't like the brass tube thing that many do and may just simulate this part of rigging with paint. We'll see.
Keen eyes will spot that the half-cut (?) oil tank in the engine compartment is out of alignment - another Doh! moment to add to the thread on these things. I had put on the panel over this thinking it would hold in in place but no. Won't be seen though.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Ocarina exhaust finish is beautiful
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Very, very , nice Graham! Spots is an interesting scheme to say the least! I like your prop and the exhaust is superb!
RAGIII
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I love this scheme, Graham, and, as Rick and Bo have pointed out, your prop and exhaust are brilliant. She's shaping up to be quite the show stopper.
Cheers,
Bud
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Very nice. I especially like the exhaust. Still following with interest.
James
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Hello Graham:
This has really turned out nice, your obstacles notwithstanding. It is an interesting scheme, and you have done an exceptional job on it. Looking forward to seeing how you decide to rig it.
Best
Mark
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Graham it looks so lovely your build.
Martin
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Isn't this coming along beautifully, Graham? Like lots of others, I think that the prop and particularly the exhaust are really good, but the whole build is looking very classy.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Hi,
something like near the end now but more accumulation of errors and wrong moves.
I 'distressed' the upper wing surface and tailplane's clean bleached linen with some MIG Rainmarks - but if you try this make sure you have a good acrylic or polyurethane varnish coat. I hadn't done this and when I went to pick up one the upper wings to start preparing it for rigging/attachment to the fuselage it was stuck on the worktop (actually on the kitchen grease-proof paper I use as a barrier)! I hadn't noticed that excess had run off the leading edge and 'melted' the paint (Gunze Mr Hobby acrylic). Another massive DOH!!!! So I had to touch up the underside blue on the leading edge and restore some the rib tapes. Jees.
Before doing any more work I sprayed the fuselage with a near-matt coat (about 3:1 matt/gloss Vallejo Premium) and had attached the exhaust; then removed the window masking.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/001_zps928e113d.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/001_zps928e113d.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/003_zps3bb5f3b1.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/003_zps3bb5f3b1.jpg.html)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/zeuxo/005_zps8d548f99.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/zeuxo/media/005_zps8d548f99.jpg.html)
I had fitted the 0.1 mm 'wire stretchers' to all the attachment points but with shorter ones at the upper and lower wing roots and none at the aileron-control teardrop on the lower wings - here the medium-sized UvR line was inserted after I had drilled out the holes a little more. I'm not quite happy yet about these stretchers/turnbuckles as, although they are getting near-to-scale, they are too flexible. This is OK for nudging them into the right angle but they bend easily. It was easiest to attach the (largest thickness) UvR line to the upper wing root and upper main strut points (3 wires - one is a drag-wire) first. Another problem is that the line does not always sit in line with the stretcher - depending on how the line was held when superglue was applied. I can see the value of slipping some sort of sleeve over this to tidy up things like this. Something for me to practice on somewhere else - not on model like this. Not trying to tie/wrap them seems to do it but leaves only a tiny point of contact of the line and loop.
Then the upper wings were attached to the fuselage - a tight but excellent fit and the main struts just popped in nicely without any problem (fixed to lower wings first and allowed to set) - excellent WNW stuff as usual.
I've just photographed the model after the main rigging was done but not the aileron control cables - not that you can see much in these shots.
Got to finish the wing rigging now and add remaining bits to fuselage, then try and get the spindly u/c to fit without any wobbly airframe above it. A good candidate for brass replacements here methinks.
Not going to put this anywhere near a competition table as some of the paintwork is too messy but it looks quite smart now.
Cheers,
GrahamB
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Wow, Graham! I really like what you've done with this. :D Looking very sharp indeed! Thanks for sharing the potential pitfalls of this build. Well done!
Cheers,
Bob
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Graham it looks so beautiful your work. Watching for the next updates.
Martin
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Looking absolutely superb Graham, the scheme you have used it very appealing.
Des.
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Graham, you've taken what could easily have been a rather dull scheme and rendered it dazzling. Can't wait to see her finished.
Cheers,
Bud
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Really like it. For such a simple marking it is very eye catching.
JAmes
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Hello Graham:
Kudos and accolades for sticking to it considering some of the difficulties you have encountered. It is turning out to be an outstanding model. The scheme is very striking. They always look better on the model than in the artwork and yours is no exception. Looking forward to seeing it all complete.
Best
Mark
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Graham, Just another example of how AWESOME this build is! Lovely work on this scheme!!
RAGIII
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Hi All,
well it is almost finished and I will post up photos in the Completed thread later today.
The rigging on this aircraft is relatively simple and it is a good one for 'beginners' in this respect - the Sopwith Pup has more wires in its tail assembly than in the Roland! The UvR thread worked very nicely and looks the part. I used the thickest for almost all wires except the aileron controls and claw-brake where the medium thickness came into play. As for the claw brake wire I was not sure how to attach it but decided to drill a hole right through it top to bottom with a very thin bit (smaller than a no. 80). This and both u/c stays were inserted into deepened holes under the fuselage first and then attached - the first just threaded through the brake hole and trimmed underneath. Note that the fuselage insertion for this is just to the rear of the port u/c stay (i.e. not on the midline as one might expect). In the end I'm fairly happy with the rigging although a few line/buckle joins are a bit messy/offset and at some stage I might re-do them - I got better as I went along.
The u/c went on OK but test fitting is needed and all traces of paint and masking fluid (if used in the fuselage holes etc) removed. I had built this as a unit beforehand as per instructions and the model was nice and level. There is still some wobble but this could be cured/minimised if rigid steel wire is used for the u/c stays?
Other things being done include a guard rail for the observer's gun made from fuse wire - this is an interpolation of WNW's profile of Spotty and hint of a structure in one of the photos of same; observer's mg - not my best effort at rolling the etched barrel - should have annealed it first; trailing aerial beneath fuselage - left as is but some might tart this up as Ray Rimmell did for his Rumpler; anemometer added to port wing on the fifth rib station; windscreen masked with Bare Metal foil and painted (yellow-beige here); the two forward windows attached dropped-down (used two tiny spots of quick-grab Gorilla glue here at the hinge line); two red decal guide stripes on upper wing (mine are too angled - Doh!! again) and a coiled breather/vent for the rear of the radiator header tank.
The model does look very nice now and I'm stoked with the result - my wife and kids think it's an attractive aircraft as well. The paint scheme has worked well, with some reservations but I'll leave off my summary of things until after I've put up some photos but many thanks for the support and appreciation as I've been going along. It really is a very nice friendly site!
Cheers,
GrahamB
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The exhaust is simply beautiful and looks very convincing. Well done - I like it a lot.
Stefan