forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: uncletony on May 17, 2012, 09:16:42 PM
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Simple question -- Curious how other folks wash parts out of the box. I've always used ordinary dish soap in Luke warm water, but I am wondering if there might be a better way?
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To tell you the truth Tony, I have never washed a part. I open the box then start painting, and up till now I have had no problems at all with the paint not sticking.
Des.
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I never washed my parts when I built AFV models exclusively, but with the extensive masking required for aircraft models, I do it for them. I haven't had any problems with masking tape pulling up the paint on any of my previous builds but I neglected to wash the wings of my current S.E.5a project and I attribute that to my paint peeling issues when executing the rib shading. I can't come up with any other explanation.
I just use dish detergent and warm water too.
Cheers,
Chris
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Me too, luke warm water, a few drops of Palmolive dish soap, soak for 10-15 minutes and a good rinse. I then lay the sprues out on a towel to dry. Never had a "peeling" problem.
Cheers,
Lance :)
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I wash all my parts in warm soapy water.The larger parts also get the brush treatment while the smaller get the finger treatment (scrubbed between two fingers). Years ago I was told this needed to be done in order to remove any release agent present on the plastic,but I'm really not convinced this is so. Resin kits or parts are a different story though. The main reason I continue to wash all the bits and pieces is to remove all the dust from my sanding operations so that I have a clean surface to paint.
I should note that when I'm building up a short/limited run kit I have on occasion noticed the plastic itself having an oily texture to it. I'm not sure if this is a release agent or the mark of low quality materials. At any rate you'll need to remove it before attempting to paint. In the past I've had to resort a light wipe down with lighter fluid followed by a wash.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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I use Muc-Off motorbike/Cycle cleaner. Once the plastic is dry paint sticks to it like fresh cow dung to a blanket :P
Von Mucky
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I see that someone has spent some time in the country! :D :D :D
Jim
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I see that someone has spent some time in the country! :D :D :D
Jim
Jim,
I dream of living the country life ;)
Von stuckinanurbanjungle
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I find paint sticks to clean parts like snot on a screen door......I found the eastern European kits have more release agents so I wash them more thoroughly with soapy warm water.
Steve
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i have never washed an injection molded kit. when i started fooling with my karaya ansaldo balilla resin kit it looked a bit greasy so i washed it, ive never had any problems except a few times when i tryed to mask a something the paint lifted off in a couple spots. maybe it is because i didnt wash them but i dont really know. i find that enamels stick better. most of the time you can scratch off acrylic paint with a fingernail but i still use it sometimes for certain things.
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I wash all my parts in warm soapy water.The larger parts also get the brush treatment while the smaller get the finger treatment (scrubbed between two fingers). The main reason I continue to wash all the bits and pieces is to remove all the dust from my sanding operations so that I have a clean surface to paint.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
I'm with Gregory on this. I'll give the parts a good wash and air dry before starting the build, then a wipe down with a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol before the paint stage: gets fingerprints, dust, spilled ice cream and warm beer of the model! :D
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I worked for a while building boats so I know about the necessity of mold release agents and waxes. Here in Connecticut I use a product named "Westley"s Bleche White". It comes in a pump spray bottle and is intended to restore white wall tires to a like new appearance. I place the sprues in a shallow tray and give them a good spray, allow them to sit for a few minutes and then thoroughly rinse them a couple of times.
After this treatment, there is a noticable differance. The surface sheds its sheen and no longer feels at all slippery. I have noticed no loss of any detail. Now let's paint.
Fathom
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I wash all my parts in warm soapy water. The larger parts also get the brush treatment while the smaller get the finger treatment
Gregory Jouette
But what do you do with your models Gregory? ;D ;D ;D
Cheers
Pete.
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Pete,
LOL I'll never tell.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
"He's a clean old man"
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Pete,
LOL I'll never tell.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
"He's a clean old man"
Gregory, I hope the brush treatment is a soft brush, not a hard scrubbing brush. :'(
Cheers
Pete.
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i have never washed an injection molded kit. when i started fooling with my karaya ansaldo balilla resin kit it looked a bit greasy so i washed it, ive never had any problems except a few times when i tryed to mask a something the paint lifted off in a couple spots. maybe it is because i didnt wash them but i dont really know. i find that enamels stick better. most of the time you can scratch off acrylic paint with a fingernail but i still use it sometimes for certain things.
This goes to the heart of my original post as I have switched to acrylics exclusively -- just cuz I don't like the idea of maintaining two systems (brushes, thinners, etc) and cleanup is a little more friendly with acrylics.
Here's what I've found, your mileage may vary: a primer coat of Tamiya flat acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner and sprayed on well washed WNW plastic sticks extremely well after allowing a good 24 hour cure. Fingernails just leave a shiny spot and do not take the paint off at all.
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I did for the first few, now I'm not bothering- by the time the parts have been handled when you're gluing the first stages together, they just need to be cleaned again. So I do as much as possible before painting, then wash the parts immediately before priming.