forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Ian from Doncaster on January 12, 2014, 05:56:52 AM
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I have just started on this model, with Pheon decals on the way to do a Black Flight version "Black Sheep" N5376.
This is nothing to do with any particular pilot, more I like the appearance. I am leaning towards "Black Sheep" as that was/is the name of the brewery operated by the Theakston family after their original one was sold to S&N. To me, that's as good a reason as any to choose a certain finish!
Thanks also to Rowan for further advice on correlating the options in the WNW kit to N5376, as the main box does not have a similar aircraft in its offerings. N5376 was a Clayton & Shuttleworth built aircraft with one machine gun.
As per my usual habit I start with either the seat or the propeller. In this case, the prop. I understand that whilst British props were laminate in construction, they were not made of dissimilar woods, therefore (in model scale) it would be almost impossible to discern the laminations with same colour woods. I have used a dark earth base coat then an oil mix as shown below. The oils need their week to dry before the klear is applied.
Then I made the engine, which in this kit is mainly very simple to assemble. I painted the components with Mr Metal stainless, with a thin coat of dark iron on the cylinders. I first used invisible thread painted black for the plug cables, but they were too fragile and I lost 9 of 18. so today I replaced them with EZ Line which took the CA much better - one line has come off at one end, as seen below, but I can correct that later. There is supposed to be a brass collar (?) at the base of each push rod, but I found that too difficult to paint successfully, so rather than have a messy result, I stripped the component and just painted it all steel. Here the engine sits on the firewall on the sprue just for the pics.
I then cut out some of the major structural components for a dry fit. WNW Sopwiths do have a reputation for a tight tolerance and any excess paint can mean the bottom wing doesn't go right. On this dry fitting, it fits perfectly so far - I picked the components that have a direct effect on the fit of the fuselage halves and bottom wing, although I will also dry fit the seat supports etc before painting. I will use the pics as a reference for where to mask the joining surfaces, to avoid the fit issues. For example, the bottom rail of each side frame sits on the floor panel, so I will use Bob's strippers to mask on the panel the areas where the frames sit, and vice versa.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/engine1_zps8324bb2b.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/engine2_zpsf7e856eb.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/propoils_zps73e525cb.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/dryfit1_zpsb8bebb18.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/dryfit2_zpsebb806c1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/dryfit3_zpsb92f416b.jpg)
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Your engine turned out superb Ian, the colours you used are perfect. You are correct with what you said about the propeller and yours looks just right, I will be following this build with great interest.
Des.
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Wahoo, another fantastic Tripehound!
Looks lovely so far, will be watching with interest.
Alan
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That's a great start, Ian. I've just started mine, so will be happily learning from your, and the other, builds.
Cheers.
Dal.
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The engine looks absolutely perfect, Ian. Wonderful work! I will be sure
to watch your build with much interest.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Ian,
O agree with all of the others of course! Beautiful engine and a great start to this one!
RAGIII
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Thanks folks.. :)
Early days, but I am planning on a "clean" model this time around, so I will have to be very careful with my painting etc - I have used "weathering" before to hide mistakes and imperfections....
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Hi Ian,
Your engine looks absolutely magnificent. I'm so glad to see another trîpe build. Keep up the great work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Ian,
Great start and I'll be following closely. I just recently completed this one and hope to do a second in future, it's a magnificent Kit. Great choice of schemes too, watch the nuances of the Clayton and Shuttleworth Builds such as the nose cowling panels and cellon inspection windows, the References are very confusing and contradictory! ???
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks again.
yes Lance, there are some variations to look out for - Rowan has kindly pointed me in the right direction and looking carefully in the WNW instructions there are some comments against old pics that refer back to part such as the inspection windows, and the cowlings for this one which are not part of the 5 box options.
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Played around with a few more bits today. Bearing in mind the potential fit issues, I painted the floor having masked the edges where the side frames will go, using Bob's 1mm strippers. The second pic shows the floor complete with wooden formers and the bar that sits in front of the control column also painted.
I painted the seat, as per the instructions. I prefer the cushion as a separate component, but this is a whole seat in one.
Floor panel during painting, you can see the effect of bob's strip by comparing the top and bottom edges.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/floor1_zps7737990b.jpg)
Finished panel
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/floor2_zps45715b04.jpg)
Seat, supposed to be a leather cushion on a metal seat frame painted black.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/seat_zps29060bf7.jpg)
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Terrific update. I am sure your caution in taping off the areas that the frames will attach to will result in better fit overall. Sanding the cockpit floor so that it drops into the corresponding space in the lower wing is the biggest "Opportunity". Not too difficult with some careful test fitting.
RAGIII
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I had to sand the floor of the WNW Pup, but that was my very first WNW model and I was ignorant of any fit issues. The dry fit with no paint shows that the parts do fit. I just need to be careful with every mating surface that can effect the fit within the fuselage and bottom wing. This will extend I guess to the end sections of the cross members which support the seat, as well as the fitting holes/lugs themselves. Also, the frame rigging needs to go inside the frames - a mistake I also made on the Pup.
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Hello Ian:
It looks like you are off to a good start on this kit. I too use EZ line for my plug wires, makes it so much easier. I also use it on the german Parabellum Machine guns to simulate that rod from the barrell to the magazine drum, and control rods for the throttle and spark advance assemblies. So much easier. I am looking forward to seeing you work through this build. I have one in the stash, but right now am stuck on DVII's.
Best
Mark
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I'm really looking forward to watching this one unfold, Ian. Can't have too many Tripes, I say. Looks like you've learned from all the previous builds and I appreciate your compilation of these lessons in photos, especially since my wife bought this kit for me for Christmas.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks Bud & Mark...
Last night I put the seat assembly together, the control column, rudder bar etc. This included the internal control lines and floor frame rigging. The latter was made with 2 strands of EZ line, zig zagged between the frames and fixed at each end with a drop of CA. I made a tiny nick with a scalpel blade at the bottom end of each frame component in which the EZ line sits, so as not to protrude where the side frames will go. This rigging could do with painting, and a bit of touch up to the floor itself.
I used steel painted invisible thread for the control lines, and all 10 lines are run through the seat support, to be terminated later behind the cockpit structure. These lines will be pulled tight as the fuselage is assembled. I noticed that I have put the elevator control lines from the stick to the top of the pulley, rather than the bottom - too late to change this but it won't really be seen. The aileron control lines are EZ line hanging loose, and will thread through tiny holes I drilled in the fuselage halves at the lower wing root therefore easily hidden once the model is buttoned up. I decided not to model turnbuckles as the 'pit is busy enough.
Seatbelts to be added and touch up paint, then I can move on to the side frames. The oils on the prop are dry enough now for klear coating too.
Not too happy with the photo quality, but with the next update I will try better. I am much happier with the assembly of this model than when I built the Pup a couple of years ago. My painting of the rudder bar etc is much more effective - still far from perfect but I can see improvement in my own work.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/seatassembly_zpse89d8410.jpg)
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Very nice Ian. One for me to save for when I finally get round to my WnW Tripe.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Really nice work Ian! Your rigging of the interior came out great!!
RAGIII
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Wow Really nice job of the interior rigging, Ian. Did you fashion your own
metal attachment points on the rudder bar? It looks super!
cheers,
Ernie :)
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Wow, yet one more Tripehound from WNW! ;) Great start, Ian. Enjoy it as so many of us already have!
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Excellent work, Ian, particularly sorting out the rigging in the pit. It's looking good.
Dal.
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Great start, the engine looks amazing and the cockpit it's nicely done.
Cheers
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Great interior Ian, Your rigging of the interior is excellent (been there) and is looking great. Looking forward for your next update.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Thanks everyone. This kit is relatively straightforward so far, touch wood! And I say that from my perspective as a relative amateur compared to many on here.
Last night I added the HGW fabric laser cut seatbelts. They went together OK and are now fitted, much easier and "softer" looking than PE variants. I also finished the prop now the oils have dried for a week, with several layers of Klear and the Clayton and Shuttleworth logo decal on one blade as per the period photo of page 15 of the WNW instructions.
When I painted the prop originally, I had used liquid mask on the hub. This peeled away nicely and the resultant edge to the wood effect paint where the hub sits, created just enough of a rim type barrier for the steel paint not to over run. I took care not to spoil the prop with a badly painted hub! The wood showing through the holes in the hub was then painted with a gloss (acrylic) brown using the end of a cocktail stick, and any excess brown immediately scraped off the hub with the tip of a no 11 blade. The prop is sat on the engine shaft without glue, just for the pic. The shaft fits perfectly so I will not need to use any force at all to fit the prop to the engine during final assembly.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/propfinished_zps3887b60c.jpg)
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Fantastic how you managed to show the wood trough the hub holes Ian. Your propeller is magnificent. Great work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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I can only echo Patrick's remarks, Ian. Beautiful rich wood colour on the
propeller. Superb work, my friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Patrick and Ernie, I will hopefully manage better photos when we have some decent daylight here!
I would prefer if WNW supplied a hub component separately - this would allow me to do a better paint job, but you can't have everything I suppose!
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Very impressive Ian. I really like the wood tone you have achieved.
Best wishes
Nigel
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I would prefer if WNW supplied a hub component separately - this would allow me to do a better paint job, but you can't have everything I suppose!
+1! Painting hubs is really tough for me! You've done a great job, Ian!
LT
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Ian what a terrific work so far! I can't imagine the remainder!!!!
8)
BTW I am very curious about how did you achieve the black metal effect on the seat.
Painting metal is one of my (many) weakpoints still...
:'(
Antonio
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Nice job! ... Btw sawing the hub off to paint separately is another option... not terribly difficult with the proper saw, just go slow and work around...
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Thanks folks...
I had considered that Bo, but to take a hub off an unused spare prop from a previous kit and then sand off the Tripe prop hub, paint and join the two together. I don't yet have the skills to cut so carefully though.
Antonio, the seat was initially painted in humbrol metalcote polished aluminium. This is followed by thin brushed layers of satin black, ideally to be wholly black as I am hoping to represent a "new" aircraft. At some places the underlying metal shows through the black paint. I had tried to replicate how the real seat may have been painted on the metal assembly. Also, there could be an element of flash reflection..
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Wow Really nice job of the interior rigging, Ian. Did you fashion your own
metal attachment points on the rudder bar? It looks super!
cheers,
Ernie :)
Hi Ernie, sorry I missed the question - the rudder bar is the kit part, with the "metal" fittings painted black, but carefully..
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Hello Ian:
Prop and engine look great. The push rods actually look like metal renderings in the photo, nice job. The prop is a jewel and your patience with the hub has paid off. Looking good so far. Like so many, this is in my stash and hopefully one day.
Best
Mark
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That prop and donk came out beautifully, Ian. I really like the colour on the prop, I'll have to try a dark earth base myself, rather than the normal sandy/yellow I use.
Dal.
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Hi Mark, Dal, thank you for the encouragement.
I too like the darker prop - the struts will be lighter for contrast.
A little more progress, the HGW seatbelts are fitted - I have still to tighten the control lines however the floor assembly is now complete. I moved on to the instrument panel. To enable a quick job, I used a variety of thin layers of brown paint for the wood, with a few pencil lines, and several coats of Klear. The bezels and pipes are all hand painted, again as with the prop hub not perfect, but they will do. I wonder if WNW could make these panels as they are originally, ie a cut out panel with holes for instruments and then drop in the instruments individually. The compass is an example of how this could be done, as is the rear of the prop boss albeit a thicker component. I also remember the WNW LVG has inspection covers/vents on the engine cowlings that drop neatly into their locating holes.
After assembly, I noticed that the central compass appeared to be rotated 20 or 30 degrees to the left. I wondered how this was, as the locating hole and compass fitting point are a tight fit. I prised the compass off, and found that the semi-circular locating hole itself was rotated, whether this is true for the aircraft or not I do not know, however I will leave it as it is now.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/seatbelts_zps86dbddc2.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/instruments_zpsada24be9.jpg)
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Brilliant job on the instrument panel, Ian.
Cheers,
Bud
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Only about 20 times better than my effort on the panel! Beautiful work!
RAGIII
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Ian this is an extremely well done instrument panel. The nicest I've seen till now on a tripe. Fabulous!
Kind regards
Patrick
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The instrument panel is stunning Ian. Beautiful work! Did you make the
pulseometer yourself or is it molded on? The whole thing looks amazing.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks folks, but I think my panel is average...
The pulsometer (bottom left instrument?) is the kit molding - I am not sure what this actually is? I have seen some modellers replace the top part with clear sprue, but I painted the top with a CDL colour then coated with Klear.
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I believe it was to confirm that oil was circulating properly. The oil would
show in the sight glass.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie. I had looked at a few build logs on here for inspiration!
Looking at this model, the components that seem to bring the whole model together will be the cockpit side frames/cabane struts. They have to be painted carefully as several components attach, and as the top half of the struts will be external, I ought to use oils for the wood.
In the meantime, I have done a few jobs that only take a little while each. I painted up the wheels and tyres, shown dry fitted here. The tyres themselves were pre-painted white where the manufacturer's name is embossed, then after painting grey, the lettering was exposed by carefully rubbing through the grey with fine micromesh.
I painted the rudder too - an experiment really as the decals would be fine, but I knew I could strip the paint if I wanted.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/wheels_zpsabfab734.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/rudder_zpsb1b347cf.jpg)
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Grand job of the wheels, Ian. The idea of bringing the printing out worked
a treat. Your painting of the rudder is pretty much perfect. Nicely done!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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The instrument panel it's amazing and the rudder looks very good too. Well done.
Cheers
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Very Nice work on the rudder! The painting is decidedly better than decaling!!
RAGIII
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Thanks everyone :)
Now, I would be grateful for some advice on painting the underside of the aircraft. The panel that is under the cockpit and between the wings appears to have 3 sections, the front upturned V section, a central section where the ammo chute pokes through, and a rear section.
The rear section I believe should be CDL as with the underside of the remaining fuselage. But, should I paint the other 2 sections in PC10/12 or black like the cowlings? Should the central panel be PC10/12 and the front one black? The research I have done is inconclusive with the photos of the underside mostly in shadow. Photos of models on the WNW website show the front 2 panels to be PC12 but those models so not depict Black Flight aircraft.
Any suggestions? thanks in advance!
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Thanks everyone :)
Now, I would be grateful for some advice on painting the underside of the aircraft. The panel that is under the cockpit and between the wings appears to have 3 sections, the front upturned V section, a central section where the ammo chute pokes through, and a rear section.
The rear section I believe should be CDL as with the underside of the remaining fuselage. But, should I paint the other 2 sections in PC10/12 or black like the cowlings? Should the central panel be PC10/12 and the front one black? The research I have done is inconclusive with the photos of the underside mostly in shadow. Photos of models on the WNW website show the front 2 panels to be PC12 but those models so not depict Black Flight aircraft.
Any suggestions? thanks in advance!
Ian,
I had the same puzzle several months back with my Black Maria. After poring over photos (I lost count) I concluded (my opinion) that the rear one (starts just ahead of the rear Landing Gear Struts) was CDL, the other two PC12, and the small add on "chin" type cowling (Part A34) definitely black. Here's a photo of how I did it...............
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/TRIPE/IMG_2462.jpg) (http://s1141.photobucket.com/user/lcarroll1/media/TRIPE/IMG_2462.jpg.html)
Like most colour questions we have a 100% correct interpretation is, of course, not likely!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Lance - this was the closest I had got, I was wondering whether any of the underside panels had the same paint as the cowlings. With your advice added to what (little) I had found, I think that I will follow your example here :)
I am going to veer towards the PC10 rather than PC12, just because of my personal preference for a greener shade rather than entering a debate on historical accuracies, and also the shade will hopefully make a pleasing contrast to the black.
The undercarriage struts appear to be black but I believe the axle fairing would be PC10/12 too.
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Ian,
Fantastic progress to date my old friend.Love the weathering on her underside. Keep up the good work.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Ian,
Fantastic progress to date my old friend.Love the weathering on her underside. Keep up the good work.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
This is Lance's Tripe underside, I would be delighted if I could match this!
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"This is Lance's Tripe underside, I would be delighted if I could match this!"
LOL, guess I was asleep at the wheel again. That being said I have no doubt you will do as outstanding job Lance did my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thank you - I plan this one however as a "clean" aircraft. Usually I end up weathering to cover up mistakes, so I need to be ultra careful here.
A bit more done, just taking it easy with some individual bits, here is the machine gun and front cowling, the latter will get a coat of klear and there is a plate decal to go on too. I left the gun on the sprue to protect the delicate PE handle, until I assemble this to the model. It isn't seen here, but I pierced a hole in the barrel with the compass point of my circle cutter.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/cowling_zpsa5ff3fc1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/machinegun_zps196d79bc.jpg)
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Hi Ian,
The engine cowling looks very attractive. Great idea to leave the machine gun on the sprue. I'll think of that next time. Great work Ian!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Great work on the Cowling and MG! Looking forward to your next update,
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick, Patrick.
At the moment I am working mainly on small individual components and assemblies. This is the great thing about WNW kits, the sub assemblies can be completed from sprue cutting to varnish within a few hours, such as the pilots little locker panel for the back of the cockpit. I have quite a collection of components now, but have started with the cockpit side frames also.
The latest item complete is the fuselage front top cover panel. The front portion was painted first - a priming layer of humbrol metalcote polished aluminium, followed by satin black and finished with klear. When applying the black, the filler tops were masked using circles of tape stamped out, to leave the aluminium underneath. I guess these could have been brass, but I am happy with the metal.
I then painted the PC-10, choosing humbrol #86 as this is a light olive shade I wanted to represent a fresh out of the factory machine. I am not too bothered if this is not 100% historically correct as I prefer the look of a greenish shade to the brown, plus of course there is much debate over the PC10-12 finish of these aircraft.
The cockpit coaming was painted a mid-brown colour in several thin layers and shades, and the stitching picked out with a HB pencil - although this isn't easy to see here. The whole component was coated in Klear, then the front section was masked before spraying satincote on the PC-10 section, to be the same as the rest of the fuselage.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/topcover_zps9dc5f2b8.jpg)
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Hello Ian,
The cover is so nicely done. A real piece of art. I remember it so well. It's so much nicer than mine was. The stitching is certainly a good idea. Wouldn't even have thought of that. It is going to be a stunner!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Beautiful clean, as planned, work on that top panel, Ian. What product is the "satincote" you mention? Is it the Humbrol Product? I'm still not decided on what to pursue as a final finish per our earlier dialogues on Clearcote etc.
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi Lance,
Yes this is a humbrol product, the satin version of the spray varnish. I put the tin in warm water for 10 mins or so before spraying. Satin is great, not too glossy which could be toy like...
I use this product to dull down the glossy surfaces where I have previously used Klear to give the surface and sealant for decals and weathering powders. I wouldn't spray directly onto decals in case the varnish solvent damages them. I prepared this panel this way, klear then satin varnish even though there are no decals, in order to follow the same procedure and layers of treatments as will be applied to the rest of the fuselage which does of course have decals.
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Hi Lance,
Yes this is a humbrol product, the satin version of the spray varnish. I put the tin in warm water for 10 mins or so before spraying. Satin is great, not too glossy which could be toy like...
I use this product to dull down the glossy surfaces where I have previously used Klear to give the surface and sealant for decals and weathering powders. I wouldn't spray directly onto decals in case the varnish solvent damages them. I prepared this panel this way, klear then satin varnish even though there are no decals, in order to follow the same procedure and layers of treatments as will be applied to the rest of the fuselage which does of course have decals.
..............and the "Klear" you mention is the floor product we often refer to as "Future"??
Thanks for the info,
Lance
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It is indeed future/klear. I end up using a combination of both products depending on what finish I want to achieve and how much decalling and weathering needs sealing in.
Today I prepared and painted the undercarriage components, which will now be set aside for a while. Even more finished components to add to the pile!
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Very good work on the top deck Ian, and also thank you for the information
on the Satincote.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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You are achieving great results Ian, everything you have done so far is looking very impressive. The clear I use is Humbrol GlossCote, SatinCote or MattCote, these come in the glass bottle and spray well over decals.
Des.
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It's looking good, Ian. I also think I'll start painting more parts while they're on the sprue- it will make them easier to find when I drop them, as well.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Thanks all.. :)
Humbrol supply a variety of varnishes, seen here http://www.humbrol.com/shop/coatings-and-thinners/varnishes (http://www.humbrol.com/shop/coatings-and-thinners/varnishes)
The "Clear" products in bottles are relatively new - I tried the gloss one (AC7431) but prefer Klear/Future. The products I use are the varnishes in spray tins - mostly acrylic (AD6135) but I have enamel (AD6999) one too. I also have the matt "cote" product (AC5601), which is for brushing/airbrushing but definitely needs thinners. Sometimes I use the "cote" name in reference to all the Humbrol varnishes, which isn't quite correct so I apologise if I mislead anyone.
Please note I have no commercial affinity with Humbrol, I am just more familiar with their products than others...
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No more components built today, but I decided to do a dry fit to see how everything goes together in case I need to do some fettling and also to see where I need to be careful as the build progresses. For example, the bare plastic strip that remains on the cockpit floor, where I masked to avoid getting paint on the join between the floor and side frames, is slightly too wide. I resolved that by shading carefully with a brown pencil up to the floor paint, so that the thin line of bare plastic will be hidden. I'll try and get a pic to show this later.
One of the known problems with WNW Sopwith models, is the lower wing fit once the cockpit is assembled. Here you can see the lower wing fit - the joins circled are as close as they can be, and the tiny gaps close up even more when I push the parts together. The join between the wing component and the fuselage underside may need filling to hide the seam, but the way the wings themselves sit looks ok.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/lowerwingdry_zps8daffd25.jpg)
The other photo shows the top cover sitting a little high (blue arrow). I think there may be two ways of resolving this: sand a little off the cowling edges (yellow highlight) to give a little freedom of movement, or sand the top edges of the ammo box and instrument panel - as they could be pushing up the panel - alternatively I could adjust the fitting of that assembly a bit lower, say 0.3 mm to give the same result.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/dryfittop_zps0301d8d9.jpg)
In handling the components the control column has been dislodged, but I should be able to re-fit that carefully.
The difficulty is each time I fettle with something the re-assembly for another dry fit check takes time.
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Hi Ian,
I think that the fitting is nearly perfect. I'm still admiring the painting of the cover/cowling. Really wonderful. Keep up the great work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Ian, Absolutely Stunning work so far on the coaming and all! As for the fit, You are already ahead of me. I had to CUT the coaming to get it to fit between the struts once the fuselage assembly was glued together. On the plus side for my build cutting the coaming eliminated the slight miss alignment your picture shows. :-\
RAGIII
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Thanks Patrick, Rick...
Thankfully I have read comments on how the cowling will not fit easily if the cockpit is wholly assembled first. This is why I will put the top cowling in position between the cabane struts whilst assembling the cockpit frame.
edit - I have done a further dry fit with the fuselage halves, bottom wing, side frames with struts and the top cowling and it slots together very well. The deflection seen before must be from the internal cockpit components - thankfully these parts are not yet glued to the sides and should be tweakable.
I will now need to take care with the frame rigging!
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Fine progress, Ian.
Well, the fit of WNW kits is very good but not perfect (I wonder if perfect fit is possible at all!). I remember filling the gaps you marked with blue ellipses in the top photo. As for the top fuselage part with the cockpit opening - I felt satisfied with what came out from the WNW parts.
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Hi prez, you are correct about the WNW kits - our experiences tell us what we need to look out for with fit issues, and this forum is the ideal way to share hints.
Yesterday I did nothing but dry fitting. The top panel should fit perfectly, and does, without the ammo box/instrument panel assembly in place. At least I have identified where I need to do a bit of extra work here.
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Good steady progress Ian. This has been a very good update. It's really helpful
to see potential troublesome areas for those of us who still have to build the
Triplane.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie, I think I have discovered the issue with the raised top panel.
If you look carefully at the instructions, page 4, or bottom of page 6 the ammo box part A27 has a ridge along the top surface. If you zoom in this image, you can see that this ridge is stepped. Circled in yellow:
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/ammobox_zpsb0f7c804.jpg)
Now, look at the top cover panels at the top of page 8.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/cowlinggap_zps92ec3ed9.png)
The panel for the twin-gun option has a wider opening where the ammo box ridge goes (yellow highlight), wider than the single gun panel opening (red highlight). This wide opening matches nicely with the stepped ridge on the ammo box, but the narrower opening doesn't. This means for the single gun options then the ammo box ridge does not sit smoothly under the top panel due to the stepped ridges, therefore perhaps pushing the panel up slightly as seen on my previous pic.
The simple solution is to sand out the stepped ridge until the ammo box sits properly under the single gun panel.
Hopefully this description makes sense. I'll do another dry fit soon - I am just putting the tail trim wheels on the side frame, and painting the attachments etc. I'll do the next dry fit before the cockpit is rigged.
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3039&cat=4 (http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3039&cat=4)
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Well I think the fettling has been a success. I sanded the ammo box as described, and have done another dry fit with all the interior components fitted. Apart from the black cowlings sitting ever so slightly proud due to the tape underneath, the fit is spot on. The under cockpit panel is flush and level with the rear portion of the fuselage, so no issue with lower wing fit. The top panel, as you can see, now also sits flush - it will be even tighter when glued later. The MG is the second one in the kit, sat here just for the pic. The MG I will use is painted but still on the sprue.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/dryfittopcompared_zps35c867f6.jpg)
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Managed to get the cockpit frames rigged last night, and the whole thing assembled. It still fits in the fuselage halves etc, just.
Another lesson learned here - using CA to fix these components is perhaps a mistake. I find that the CA itself forms a slight thickness between the bonded components, thereby adding a risk of the whole assembly not fitting correctly. Whereas the regular plastic adhesive, especially the water thin variety, doesn't do that as it melts into the plastic and "welds" the components together.
It is tricky to see if everything sits right, as the top cover is sitting in place loosely between the cabane struts. The control cables need re-tightening, carefully.
Pic to follow.
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Nicely done Ian! Shows the value of dry fitting, especially with WnW's very
tight tolerances. Thanks for the update & tips, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hi Ian,
Excellent fitting now! It's a pitty I wasn't more careful in closing my Tripe. Thank you for the advice of CA glueing the interior parts. Well done!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Ian:
Great tip on the Tripe hound instrument cover. It seems like that area is a real sticky point for the kit and your solution is a simple but effective one.
Best
Mark
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Hello Ian:
Great tip on the Tripe hound instrument cover. It seems like that area is a real sticky point for the kit and your solution is a simple but effective one.
Best
Mark
Agreed 100%
RAGIII
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Thanks folks :)
It is almost certain that the dry fitting and fettling I did here, and the patience to do it, is a result of the forum's influence..
The cockpit assembly is now complete, apart from the two little bars that form part of the gun support and which link up with the mid-wing ends (you can see the holes in the stubs where the bars terminate.
Final fettling included trimming the pilot's storage panel that sits at the top of the frames behind the seat (out of view here) and final glueing of the assembly so that although the top cover panel itself sits loosely, it cannot now be removed from between the struts.
Next job is the tail skid and preparing the fuselage halves prior to joining up. This is the time to check on rigging holes in the fuselage and prepare/pre-rig before I close up.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/pitfinished1_zps2c951b22.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/pitfinished3_zps5aa30df3.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/pitfinished2_zps3ede2230.jpg)
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This is looking very accomplished Ian and I am really enjoying the build log.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Very fine work Ian. We could all take a flyer from your patience and thoroughness with this build. :). It is really paying off with a superior model emerging. I invariably create problems for myself when I rush in. Unfortunately, I also invariably rush in at some point during a build! :o. What is that old addage about banging one's head against a wall? ;D. I'm still learning. Thanks for this brilliant reminder of the virtues of patience and thouroughness. :)
Cheers,
Bob
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Ian, your interior looks terrific. It is so clean and well painted. The leather part on the cockpit opening is such a beauty. Looking forward to see your next update. Keep up the great work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Very fine work Ian. We could all take a flyer from your patience and thoroughness with this build. :). It is really paying off with a superior model emerging. I invariably create problems for myself when I rush in. Unfortunately, I also invariably rush in at some point during a build! :o. What is that old addage about banging one's head against a wall? ;D. I'm still learning. Thanks for this brilliant reminder of the virtues of patience and thouroughness. :)
Cheers,
Bob
Here Here!!..................... and very nice work Ian. The cockpit and the excellent finish on the leather coaming really stand out. BTW, watch those little gun support frame members, I recall nearly "hitting the wall" with those little beggars!
Beautiful work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thank you everyone :)
Patrick, I have been using a darker shade of brown for leather on previous models, but having seen other builds, and replica photos, I went for the lighter shade this time, and I think it works.
Lance, you hit the nail on the head - there is a reason I have not tried to put those struts on yet! They look far to fragile and easy to break off during the rest of the build, so will add them when I fix the MG on at a later stage...
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Thank you everyone :)
Patrick, I have been using a darker shade of brown for leather on previous models, but having seen other builds, and replica photos, I went for the lighter shade this time, and I think it works.
Lance, you hit the nail on the head - there is a reason I have not tried to put those struts on yet! They look far to fragile and easy to break off during the rest of the build, so will add them when I fix the MG on at a later stage...
Ian,
I'm working from (a very old!) memory here but I seem to recall I had to trim the bottom supports on the guns where they join the frame piece to get the guns level. Not a big deal but I have no idea why it didn't fit. Knowing WNW's fine engineering standards I suspect it was something I missed or did wrong........ :-[
Cheers,
Lance
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Outstanding work on the interior, Ian. I'm getting close to starting mine and, thanks to you, I'll have a much easier time of it than I would otherwise.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Ian:
This is really coming along nicely. I agree with the others, the painting on the interior is top notch. The metal looks like metal, wood like wood, etc. I, like Bob, tend to rush and things don't turn out as clean and nice.
I am looking forward to the next installation and seeing how you do the gun mounts. Seems they could be a bit sticky as well. The saga continues! ;)
Best
Mark
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Ian,
As always top shelf work my old friend. Very impressive artistry on her interior. Keep up the Outstanding progress.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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That looks superb! Fantastic stuff!
Alan
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Slow progress in recent weeks, been away on business, then busy at work and took a while to get going again.
Since the last update, I painted the tailskid, pre-drilled the holes for the tail rigging etc and threaded EZ Line through the holes. The interior fuselage halves were painted and then the fuselage was buttoned up around the cockpit assembly. The top coaming and engine firewall went on ok, not perfect, but good enough. A little filler on the under fuselage seam, bottom wing on, then masking for painting. A first coat of primer is on for me to check the seams, then go to town with the painting proper. Before that however I need to prep the other wings, elevators, ailerons etc.
The marks you can see on the primer are where I sanded down the slightly rough primer finish.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/primed_zps51ef7e72.jpg)
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Looking good, ! Sorry if I missed this but are you doing PC 10 or PC 12 finish and if PC 10 what are you using. I am asking because I am now facing a decision on my Snipe!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick. The references to whether this aircraft was PC10 or 12 are uncertain, but it is implied that Tripes could be either. I chose PC10 for aesthetic reasons - I just prefer it, notwithstanding the excellent PC12 models seen on here. I am using Humbrol #86, which is possibly on the greener end of the scale but lends itself more to a factory fresh scheme. This means I need to be careful not to make too many mistakes as I will do minimal weathering, but weathering is an ideal way to disguise my errors!
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Hi Ian,
Lokking forward to see it painted in PC10! You are up to a beautiful, well made a/c. Thanks for sharing.
Kind regards
Patrick
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I'm looking forward to seeing the Tripe in PC10. With your talents, Ian it will be
great, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Been away for a while, but had a bit of time with the model this week. The fuselage and wings etc are painted, then buffed up with a cloth. After decals are applied, I coated the surfaces with Klear. Then I masked up where the ribs/edges are as these need to be glossier where the material is more stretched, then sprayed satin varnish over. Removing the masking strips shows the glossy ribs - the decals survived the masking, just!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/ribs_zps12f5b048.jpg)
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Ian,
Your rib work looks terrific! Well done!!
RAGIII
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Gotta agree with my amigo, Ian! I really like the looks of that.
Cheers,
Bud
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Ian that's a real artist's touch!
Fantastic!!!
Antonio
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Hello Ian,
I am glad your back on the tripe. And with magnificent results. Enjoyable to look at. Well done!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Thank you for the comments everyone - the technique is quite simple (it must be, if I can do it) and is aimed at replicating the finish I see on aircraft in museums where the material appears glossier where stretched.
In my model, I think the contrast between the ribs and the spaces is perhaps overdone, and may be toned down with a coat of Klear, but I am tempted to leave well alone. The hardest part is getting the tape I used (Bob's strippers - 1mm width) not to pull up the decals, even though they had been previously sealed with klear. I had a few mishaps, but managed to save the minor tears and patch up with the original decal. The undersides in CDL will get a bit of shading/weathering to further highlight the ribs and edges, but not too much, I want this model to have an "almost new" appearance.
I have found that buffing up the wings (like polishing shoes), after the main colour is painted, will highlight the raised parts such as ribs etc whilst leaving the remaining material a slightly uneven satin finish. The uneven-ness can give a bit of variation and texture, rather than stark and completely even painted surfaces. I would ideally then leave the wings alone, but the decals then are too glossy, hence the klear/tape/satin varnish process. The solution to that would be to paint the national markings instead of decals, but that is another problem altogether.....
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Excellent progress, Ian. Thanks for the buffing tip. That will really prove useful. Despite
the difficulty with the decals, you are doing a wonderful job recreating the "next to new"
appearance of the Tripe. Nicely done, my friend. Looking forward to the next updates.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie :)
Here are some more progress pics. The lower wing has yet to have the ribs masked and satin overspray, and the fuselage also needs a coating. Horizontal tailplane is just positioned for the pics, and the rudder/fin are also loosely attached. The mark you can see on the corner of the cowling to the rear of the cockpit is just the masking lifting up.
One more session of rib masking and spraying will finish the lower wings and fuselage.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/progress_zps7f8e140a.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/wingribsandrudder_zps63cba196.jpg)
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Very nicely done Ian, I like your technique of the glossier ribs, gives a very realistic appearance.
Des.
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Thanks Des, this is what I have seen on museum aircraft, although I have perhaps exaggerated the difference between the ribs and the material in between, for effect.
I have now done the lower wing and fuselage underside. I accidentally knocked one of the wingtips which caused a partial separation of the lower wing component and a crack at the join with the fuselage underside. In trying to tidy this up (still visible just), the paintwprk on the fuselage underside was deteriorated a bit, so I decided to weather this a little more than I had planned. In addition to the wing rib shading, I added some oil staining/dirt using a selection of brown pastel powders, on the fuselage as well as the wings. I put some pastels on the underside of the undercarriage spreader too.
Because I am now adding a little staining, I put some on the undersides of the middle wings, but not as much as the bottom set, and only rib shading on the top wing. I will of course need to remember to add some dirty staining to the upper surface of the lower wing and forward fuselage, but this and the fuselage upper sections are the last to treat.
The metal cowling components, painted black, can get a dry brush from my mr metal polishing brush, which will add a metal edge to raised bits such as rivets, edges etc.
Taping and shading, before overspraying with satin varnish.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/taping_zpsfeeb3849.jpg)
Tapes removed
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/underside_zps3d4c502d.jpg)
Wing undersides compared
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/lowerwingscompared_zps7a7eb21b.jpg)
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Your under surfaces look PERFECT! Beautiful work!!
RAGIII
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Your under surfaces look PERFECT! Beautiful work!!
RAGIII
Ian,
What Rick said, coming along beautifully!
Cheers,
Lance
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Wonderful work on the underside weathering, Ian. Very nice update.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hello Ian:
I like the effect of the glossy rib tapes, sets them apart and adds additonal detail to the wing surfaces. I also like the shading on the rudder. I am a bit leary of taping over a decal, but; may have to give it a go.
Looking forward to the next update.
Best
Mark
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Hello Ian,
I can only echo what Rick, Ernie, Lance and Mark said. Outstanding work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Ian,
I can only echo what Rick, Ernie, Lance and Mark said. Outstanding work!
Kind regards
Patrick
Ditto!
Great work Ian!
Antonio
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Thank you everyone - my plan to show an aircraft fresh out of the factory has now gone, but never mind.
Now that the wings and fuselage painting is done, the rest of the masking is removed. I attached the tail surfaces, engine, and the front cowlings as seen here. There is some touch up paint to do, and additional painting such as the pump on the cabane strut, the strut brackets etc, and some work to blend the top cowling in with the rear fuselage.
I also dry fitted the outer struts and all the wings - they go on simply and (to my eye) reasonably accurately. I did the same with the undercarriage struts - again a positive fit which should make the geometry work! The prop is not glued on, just sat here for the pics.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/maskingoff_zpsa9371a2c.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/cowlingson_zps977ada71.jpg)
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Hello Ian:
I like the effect of the glossy rib tapes, sets them apart and adds additonal detail to the wing surfaces. I also like the shading on the rudder. I am a bit leary of taping over a decal, but; may have to give it a go.
Looking forward to the next update.
Best
Mark
Hi Mark,
Taping over decals is a very delicate affair! My approach is to try and ensure the decal is bedded down properly and completely dry, then coated with a couple of layers of klear. Let everything cure for a couple of days and then and only then apply the tape. I used Bob's Buckles strips over these decals, first pressing the tape on my hand a few times to remove the sticky as much as I could. Even then, there were one or two bits of decal that lifted despite how carefully I removed the tapes. However, by doing that slowly, I was able to retrieve the decal pieces off the tape with a sharp blade and re-position them on the model. Ideally, I would paint the markings rather than use decals. The Klear coating also prevents the overspray of satin varnish reacting with the decal material, as has happened to me before!
Taping over decals is a risk, and an individual choice.
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What a beauty. :)
James
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Hello Ian,
James is absolutely right. A real beauty. This will be a gorgeous Tripe. Great modeling!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Thank you James, Patrick...
The undercarriage struts are fitted and rigged - the fit was straightforward and looks accurate judging by eye. I also blended in the top panel with the top of the fuselage matching the paint and weathering. I also blew some "oil" coloured pastel powder into the engine, and behind the cowling for extra weathering, as I had weathered the wings the engine was too clean. The engine cowlings have some metal paint dry brushed on for wear and tear. Again the prop is just sat here.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/ucassembly_zpsa97f9e66.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/enginefront_zps65aff15d.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/ucstruts_zps9080ca97.jpg)
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Really beautiful, Ian! You're inspiring me to get to work on mine.
Cheers,
Bud
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Ian,
That looks great - your tempting me into going for one of these .................
Regards
Dave
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Ian,
That looks great - your tempting me into going for one of these .................
Regards
Dave
Agrees, only in my case you are tempting me to think about a second!
RAGIII
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Amazing work, Ian. I really like the staining on the lower wing/fuselage.
The whole build is just mind-boggling stuff, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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She's looking very fine indeed, Ian! I like both the color and the weathering. Nicely done!
Cheers,
Bob
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Beautiful. Looking at yours I think I know where I went wrong on my Snipe wing bottoms. Really inspiring.
James
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Looking good Ian:
I like the staining on the under side of the wings: very convincing. Looking forward to the next update.
Best
Mark
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Amazing work! I like your weathering!
-
Thanks everyone - I am enjoying this build, and despite a hope to do a "clean" aircraft, I have to do a bit of weathering to cover up mistakes... There is a bit of silvering under the serial number decals, but not under others, never mind, it looks worse under the camera flash than in reality.
Fitted out all the tail bits, including rigging, and pre-rigged the lower wings and forward fuselage. I find it is easier to fit as many lines as I can before final assembly. The molding of the rigging line in the inspection area at the lower wing root, lines up very well with the rigging line that extends to the nose - a great example of WNW's quality.
I still need to do a bit of painting with the strut bracketry and weathering the wheels etc, but almost done.
Edit - just noticed a bit of paintwork on the interior cockpit frame that could do with a tidy up...
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/taildone_zps145feb77.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/wingrig1_zpsb00487c6.jpg)
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Beautifully done Ian; crisp and clean, great detailing and just the right amount of weathering for a "Factory Fresh" finish. I like this one a lot! :)
Cheers,
Lance
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Hello Ian,
This is teriffic! A real top build. You are showing your great modeling skills. Well done.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Ian,
This is teriffic! A real top build. You are showing your great modeling skills. Well done.
Kind regards
Patrick
I very much agree with my friend Patrick. Beautiful work, Ian!
Every update is even better.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hello Ian:
I also agree. I think it is really coming alonga and I can't see any problems with the interior framing paint. Only you know where it is.
Looking forward to the next update.
Best
Mark
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Neat, Clean, and beautifully done! I think I see the frame you are speaking of but if I bothered to correct it at all my method would be just running some washes down those frames :-[
RAGIII
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Thank you everyone - apart from a quick check in daylight and any remaining touch ups and dust offs, this is now done.
Since the last update I painted the strut brackets, the pump on the cabane, the control horns and a bit more weathering powder. Then I assembled the wings, middle first and rigged, then the top wing and finished the rigging. Due to the way the struts fit, the wings went on very easily, it would be very difficult to get the wing fit wrong! Gun and windscreen, ailerons etc all finally fitted.
As with all of us, I can see where I could have done better, but generally I am quite happy with this model, another winner from WNW!
I will hopefully get some better staged pics later, in the daylight, to show the colour better etc.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finished5_zpsbb7419bd.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finished1_zps7aa7a0b9.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finished3_zps3807c31a.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finished4_zps0af228e4.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finished2_zpsb1296946.jpg)
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A REAL BEAUTY! The Weathering is Awesome!!! Very,Very Nice!
RAGIII
-
Looks great Ian! Very well done. Wonderful colors, shading and weathering. ;D
Cheers,
Bob
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Ian,
This is one of the nicest Sopwith Tripes I've seen to now. One to be very proud of. A very nice build to follow too. Congratulations.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Thank you for your kind comments - I have just realised that I have not yet re-fitted the pitot tube on the port side middle wing leading edge. I can easily rectify that today.
-
Here are some more selected pics. Still not got the light conditions I want, so will wait until later to open a "completed" thread.
Front view, followed by engine close up. You can just see (some of) the plug wires behind the cylinders, this is why I put them on! Engine is dirtied a little rather than too shiny metal.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedfrontend_zpsf85021b6.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedengine_zps2bc33f34.jpg)
Close up of the tail skid etc
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finished-tailcloseup_zpsb88426b7.jpg)
Lower aileron control
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedaileron_zps13d7fe2b.jpg)
Simple rigging - didn't do turnbuckles or eyelets to keep it easier...
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedrigging_zpse4a559db.jpg)
Wheels grubbied up a little.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedwheel_zps6227fcb6.jpg)
Some of what is visible inside the 'pit
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedcockpitinterior_zps921a5704.jpg)
Close up of the pump on the cabane, and the inspection window through which the strut is just visible.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Sopwith%20Tripe/finishedpump_zps19b56ba9.jpg)
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Very nice indeed :)
Alan
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Impressively "clean" Build Ian. Just enough subtle wear on the cowling and engine to give it a slightly used look and great detail. One to be very proud of!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hello Ian:
This turned out really nice. I like the subtle weathering and the simplified rigging. I use that a lot with EZ line.
Best
Mark
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Amazing build!!! Well done!
-
In a word OUTSTANDING!
RAGIII
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Looking good, Ian -
Nothing wrong with keeping the rigging simple either.
Regards
Dave