forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Dal Gavan on May 10, 2012, 09:17:10 AM
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G'day, everyone.
The world's slowest build of the WNW Pfalz D.IIIa is slowly progressing. However, I'm not travelling for the next six weeks, so I'm hoping to make a lot more progress.
I have managed to finish the engine, minus a couple of touch ups, and mount it to the frame. After studying Ken and DaveL's GB entries on the other forum and Bertl's amazing work on his old, worn out workhorse I added a few details to dress the engine up. In the main these are things that will be fairly easily seen once the fuselage is closed and the cowl plates fitted. I've tried to paint the engine to represent one that does get a swipe with a rag occaisionally, in a vain attempt to keep it clean. My first attempt to wire up the distributor left the wires too long, but I hope I fixed that just before mounting the engine on the bearers.
Cheers.
Dal.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine59.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine60.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine63.jpg)
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That engine is superb, Dal. I probably said the same thing the last time I saw it ;). So glad to see you're still working on this beauty. Looking forward to your next update.
Cheers,
Bud
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Dal,
Beautiful details on the Mercedes my old friend. Looks just perfect in place in the fuselage. Looking forward to future updates.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Excellent work on the engine Dal, and it looks great sitting in the fuselage, this is going to be a very good build.
Des.
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Its not plodding when you put that much detail in!!!
Steve
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Thanks for the kind words, gents. I've enjoyed learning quite a few techniques to get this far.
I have tomorrow off, so I'm heading up to the farm to do some more work on the airframe. I want to close up the fuselage and fit the lower wing tomorrow, so I can see some real progress, and respray the blue on the wing and port fuselage. Then it's fitting the eyelets to the lower wing and fuselage, ready to start rigging.
What next? Spad XIII, Neuiport 28 (both Roden) or Albatros D.V (WNW)?
Cheers.
Dal..
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Dal,
You've learned well grasshopper. A SPAD would be nice for your next. Hint ,hint.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
"SPADaholic"
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That engine is a real jewel Dal. Beautiful craftsmanship. Looking forward to seeing more progress.
Paddy
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Great looking engine Dal, it seems almost obligatory these days to put the ignition wires on the Mercedes engines.
Cheers
Pete.
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Wow Dal, great detailing. Like Steve said above, that's not plodding!!
Andrew
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Wish I could plod that well! ;D ;D
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That engine is a work of art. (http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r486/Ken_Jeffrey/smileys/clap.gif)
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Yes indeed, a very good looking engine!
Cheers,
Chris
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Lovely work, an excelent grubby effect. I love the attention to detail shown
Keith
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How's this beastie progressing Dal?
Did you have any progress shots of that beautiful engine build or technique tips? It is quite awesome really!!
Andrew
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Wow. Fantastic engine! Congrats!
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Good evening, everyone.
Again, thanks for the kind words. Andrew, the only tips I can offer are to read Des' site, look at the amazing builds by the modellers here- especially in the "Under Construction" folder- and on the GWITA forum and don't be scared to try new things. I'm still very much on a (really steep) learning curve of my own, mate. Looking at builds like Pete Nottingham's, Dave's (Kong), Marco's, Keith's, etc not only provides me with inspiration and tips, they also serve as great motivation to give new techniques a go.
Not much progress to report, I'm afraid. I've spent a lot of the last few weeks either in Brisbane, sitting in the back of Bushmasters and checking COMMS installations, or getting a tooth surgically extracted. Anyone who owns horses will know what I mean when I say horses have hard heads and are clumsy with them. Things are getting a little chilly here, so being in Brisbane was a nice change. But it hasn't left me any time to get up to the farm and do any painting. I was up there last week, cutting firewood for the ex with my son, but that took all day. Perhaps next weekend.....
So I've concentrated on stuff I can brush paint. Here's a shot of the Pfalz's propeller, using pencils on a Tamiya 79 paint base. This is "Take 3"- I've stripped two prior attempts and, if I hadn't got impatient and not put on the decals, I'd probably try again. It's a bit redder and darker than I wanted, but I've learned some lessons for my next 'plane. I've also used von Buckle's gear to make up some turnbuckles (here's a tip- those little bits of brass tube and copper wire have amazing rates of acceleration when they want to leave the tweezers) and experimented with making my own from brass pipe and fine wire.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Prop1.jpg)
However, patience being a virtue I don't possess in abundance, I also started on the Academy Spad XIII I bought., in deference to Gregory's recommendation. I've been experimenting with wood grain, trying for different colours/types of wood. I think I'm getting the hang of it, though taking these photo's has pointed out a few errors I need to correct.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_build3.jpg)
Again, any comments, tips, suggestions and corrections will be gratefully received.
Cheers.
Dal.
PS I haven't put any coloured clear coat over the Spad bits, yet. I'm looking forward to trying a few different mixes of yellow, red and orange to see how the different colours I've done will turn out.
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Dal, that Pfalz prop looks perfect to me. Outstanding work on the SPAD bits, as well.
Cheers,
Bud
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I do like that propeller - tell us more about the pencils you used.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Carpo
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Thanks, Bud, but I can see about ten things I'd like to fix, not including the spinner. But that's what this kit is all about- learning.
Carpo, the pencils I use are Derwent drawing pencils I got from an art shop here in Queanbeyan. They're soft and don't scratch the paint like the kid's set I bought from the news agents. There was a pack of four with Venetian Red, Brown Ochre, Chocolate and Chinese White, plus sharpener and rubber. The set was on special for about $15, so I grabbed it. I've used the chocolate to outline the layers and add grain to the Venetian red, which I used for the darker coloured layers. The lighter layers are the Brown Ochre with Venetian Red grain. I used too much red when I mixed the clear orange, darkening it a lot more than I like. Next time I think I'll use Mr Hobby 85 ("Sail Colour") as a base, Brown Ochre for the darker wood and use a clear yellow to seal it. I'd like to get the same effect that Bertl got on his "old worn out workhorse", for example.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Fantastic job sir on detailing the engine ;) It is possibly one of the best I have seen.
I am also a slow builder. Patience and having fun are improtant and that you have apparently accomplished.
Eric
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Thanks, Eric. I enjoyed doing that engine, and I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
You're so very right about having fun. I'm enjoying this build more than I have enjoyed the others I've done in the last few years- for a while my hobby was feeling more like a second job and this kit has cured that. Hasn't helped me patience levels, though, I must admit! :)
Dal.
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No need to thank me sir!
I am getting old and my time is limited:)
I have yet to build a WWI plane and my past is building wooden ships and due to the time it takes to complete on of them and my age, I have started to
Presently i am building my first plastic kit ever and it is a ww 2 airplane in 1/32 scale. For example...airbrushing is new to me sir ha. So even an old man like me is apt to learning!! I love it!
Between that project and painting miliatary miniatures, I hope one day to build one of these Wing Nut Wing kits and I am considering the Roden as my first.
I am also happy at the way your engine turned out sir. It is very inspiring to an old dude like me:)
Patience or at my age is it Patient hahahaah?
Thanks for your time amd the phots of your beautiful work.
Eric
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Outstanding engine Dal, with that standard of work the Fee would be a breeze for you!
Your wood effects are great too - very very effective.
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Excellent work on the propeller Dal, it looks spot on in my eyes, and thanks for the info on the pencils you used, they will be next on my list of things to purchase.
Des.
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Dal,
Nice to see I'm not alone in the slow approach to build progress, makes me feel less guilty about my present "stall". Beautiful prop, I'd say about as good as it gets!!
Cheers,
Lance
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Dal,
Outstanding work on your Pfalz prop my friend,love your wood graining. The SPAD bit aren't too shabby either,again beautiful wood works. I'm looking forward to seeing more of both projects.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Lovely work Dal, the Pfalz prop penciling looks great.
Thanks for your earlier tips ;)
Andrew
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G'day, Gents.
Well I've finally got some paint on the fuselage and wings.. There's some touch-ups to be done, and a couple of seams that have re-appeared will need to be sorted, but I'm fairly happy with it so far. It's not as garish a scheme as I first thought it may be. My girlfriend chose the scheme for me by saying "I like this one!" when she was looking over my shoulder. I was planning on doing Buddecke's plane, as it's a very simple scheme, but when one's better half shows an positive interest in your hobby, you don't quibble!
Taking the camera with me would have been a good idea, too.... The plane's currently in a cupboard up at the farm, to keep dust off the gloss paint used for the red and blue. I'll nick up there next week to do the touch ups and take some photo's then.
Eric, no need to be formal. I stopped being a "Sir" many years ago. If you do wooden ship kits you have my admiration. I've seen the work that the Canberra Model Shipwrights do and the skills required are simply impressive. Would you mind posting a photo' of one of your builds in the "Time To Relax" folder? What period of military miniatures do you do? I tend to stick to pre-1815, particularly Napoleonics and Seven Years War (even though I hate and detest painting lace).
Ian, I still have to tackle my first rigging job. I downloaded the Fee instructions from WNW and was gobsmacked when I saw the riggging diagrams. I think I'll practice a bit before I try one of those. :o
Lance, I like my girlfriend's term- I'm not being slow, I'm being meticulous. It's not true but it sounds better. The work you're doing on your Albi is not something you want to rush, either. It's looking great.
Cheers.
Dal.
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My son was able to bring the Pfalz down from the farm on Friday and I spent yesterday adding the decals. There's quite a few touch ups that I need to do, but I'm finally getting there. I also tried the first bit of rigging, on the undercarriage. It's not as hard as I thought, but it is fiddly. I used .5mm brass tube as the swaging clips, flattening them with pliers after I'd fed the invisible thread through the the turnbuckles and eyelets.
I still have to do the clear coats and a bit of light weathering, but with the top wing just resting on the struts it's starting to look like a Pfalz.
Cheers.
Dal.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine66.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine68.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine69.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz-mine72.jpg)
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Dal,
She's one striking kite my friend. Love that color scheme.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Looking good Dal!!
Andrew
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Starting to really look the part now Dal, lovely paint scheme and very well applied, you are on the home stretch now.
Des.
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That is coming together to be a pfine looking Pfalz!
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Very striking, Dal. You're almost there, mate.
Cheers,
Bud
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Dal,
Really an eye catching colour scheme, spectacular actually. Keep on "plodding", you've got a real crowd pleaser almost completed.
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks, Gents. There's a lot of flaws I can find, most of which I hope to correct. I have a feeling the pilot may have been a bit of an extrovert, if he chose the scheme.
Cheers.
Dal.
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G'day.
Back from the farm, where I fixed up the bottom of the Pfalz. Most of it, anyway- I left my putty here and made the choice to get on with it, rather than wait until the next trip. So the seams where the lower rear part of the wing joins the fuselage are there- and there they'll stay. I didn't try to spray the cross on the wing, I can do that next time and I'll know the paint is completely dry before masking. Or I'll mask and brush paint it here. The wing looks blotchier than the photo's shows, the Mr Softener I used to help lift the decal remains may be the cause. In any case it will be toned down with weathering (I hope). At least the rear fuselage came up well and it only took a minute to touch up the various feldgrau fittings. This is a learning experience, and I'll do better with the Spad and later models, I hope.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz_mine_66.jpg)
When I got home I rigged the tail. It was a lot easier than I'd feared and I'm fairly happy with how things turned out. I've used a slightly different method to those I've read about, as I was trying to emphasise the use of turnbuckles. The fences on a farm mean you get very familiar with using turnbuckles..... :P They look larger than I'd really like them to look and I'm afraid the swaging clips don't look as good I'd hoped, but they did make the rigging fairly easy to tension and don't look too bad at three feet. The lines have been painted with Mr Metal Colour dark iron and don't look nearly as "lumpy" as they do in the photo' below. Anyway, you can see for yourself.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz_mine_65.jpg)
Next up is a bit of dot filtering and a couple of washes to add some depth to the details and to (lightly) stain the lower fuselage. The photo's I've seen of this aircraft show it looking very clean, but close-ups of the fuselage show some dings in the fuselage, on the silbergrau paint. I wonder if these photo's show the 'plane cleaned up and after having the red and blue added, perhaps when they changed the style of cross? After that will be a coat of "One-Go" (Aussie Future) and then semi-goss, before I try the pastel weathering technique that many here use so well.
As usual, all comments, suggestions and corrections will be gratefully received.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal,
Wonderful results on the cables. Swaging clips (??), your own design/build or a commercial product? They really look the part and I'd gladly steal the idea with your permission.................. ::) Good luck with the Pastel stage; I'll be watching that closely as well.
Cheers,
Lance
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Dal, some gorgeous work there indeed.
Keith
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Dal,
Fantastic update my friend. Outstanding rigging to date. She's shaping up to be one First Class project.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks, Gents.
I learn something new every time I touch this kit. Such as don't leave the open bottle of paint near the edge of the bench......
Lance, swaging clips (also called ferrules or sleeves) are used on wire rope, and sometimes single-strand wire, to trap the running end of the rope when you make an eye, using a thimble or yoke. <snipped- lapsed into instructor-speak.
I tried to replicate it using 0.5mm wire crushed with round-nosed pliers, but it's not working for me- the clips don't match the photo's or Bertl's old warhorse- they're too short and wide. The Germans may have wire-wound and shrouded the wire, which would give that long, thin look. I'll have to experiment a bit more..
Feel free to use it if you want to, mate- you've given me enough tips with your builds.
Youse blokes realise that if youse weren't inspiring me to lift me game and try new techniques then I'd have finished this bleedin' kit 12 months ago, don't yers? It's all your fault!
;D
Cheers.
Dal.
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Great job Dal, a most impressive looking Pfalz with lovely rigging.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thanks for the info Dal. Some of the photos I've studied indicate that you are probably correct on the "wire wound" and/or "shrouded" ends on the rigging wire. I'm going to do a mini-search later today to confirm. I also note that a lot of the TVAL Albie close ups indicate that the wires are simply wound back on themselves.
Cheers,
Lance
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Gents,
A lot of the ends of the wire rope had a loop splice in them
as you would with a regular fiber rope. I think that's what gives that
long tapered look.
Jim
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Pete, thanks. It's getting there.
Lance, sorry about that long-winded post. I shouldn't post when I'm reviewing documentation at work- it brings out old habits. Looking at an Albie is not a bad idea- here's a blown up photo' of the tail of the D.Va at the Australian War Memorial that took a few years ago. From this shot you can see Jim's correct about them splicing the eye in (though that may be from a restoration , but they're usually pretty good). How to replicate that on the kit?
Jim, well spotted. I was over-thinking their solution.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal, (et al)
The Albatros elevator control wire in the preceeding is exactly where I'm trying to get to................. neat loop, backwrapped on itself (crude but apparently effective) and coincidentally exactly (as I recall) as seen on the TVAL Repros.
So, whose got the info on the technique in the photo? Sharing is like Sainthood don't you know!
Cheers,
Lance
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@Lance, there's several pages on standard aircraft cable eyelet splicing techniques in WWI Aero #110 (July 1986), with results that look exactly like the picture above to me. Basically the cable is looped over a stamped "thimble" (the metal part that gives the eyelet it's shape) and woven back into itself using one of several specific patterns depending on the number of strands, and then wrapped with a thinner "harness wire".
Here's a small sample -- I don't wish to infringe on their copyrights, back issues are still avail in PDf...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/435f5ea07074498b799ca1084fec18ac.jpg)
Edit: It occurs to me that you might have meant who has info on how to replicate this in scale -- in that case, you got me :-)
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Tony,
That's what I really meant to ask, how can this be replicated in scale? I assumed the photo was a model view, or is it a shot of a real aircraft? Sorry to drag us down this "bunny trail" Dal, don't mean to hijack or detour your excellent thread.
Cheers,
Lance ::)
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Lance, Dal's photo is indeed of a real a/c-- it's the AWM D.Va, i guess post most-recent restoration. (~2009?)
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Lance, Dal's photo is indeed of a real a/c-- it's the AWM D.Va, i guess post most-recent restoration. (~2009?)
No wonder it looked so real?! I have a very simple plan for the same flight control cables on my DV (using some of the stuff I didn't install and/or removed a few days back. Hope to have an update out soon.
Cheers,
Lance
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Tony, that's brilliant, many thanks. Now to work out a way to replicate it, or give the impression of doing so.
Lance, I might put some of these shots up on the aircraft folder. I'm not much of a photographer, but someone may find them useful. And no need to apologise for the thread wandering- let it go where it will.
Dal.
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G'day, today I decided to experiment with dot filters. This poor kit's seen more experiments on it than any Igor. So I broke out the oils and read as much as I could on the net, in particular Chuck W's excellent build on an Me 410 at http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=180322&st=500 (about 1/2 way down the page). I wanted to try it on both gloss and matt surfaces, so when I put One Go onto the fuselage, I deliberately left the wings.
I'm trying to give the impression of the staining caused by mud and dirt being thrown up by the wheels and skid. Even though photo's show this aircraft looking freshly painted, there's a few dings seen in closeups. No matter how they scrubbed, I think they'd have trouble getting all the stains out of the painted and doped cloth that covered the wings and fuselage.
So grabbing Raw and Burnt Umber, Raw and Burnt Sienna, Naples Yellow, Mixing White and Payne's Grey, I proceeded to give my kit a case of the measles. I had to concentrate on NOT making the dots even in spacing or amount of paint.
An hour of brushing and re-applying gave me an effect close to what I wanted. It's very easier to wipe off too much paint on the gloss surface, but conversely it's harder to remove enough on the matt surface. I deliberately left the outer wings clear for the mo', as I still have to mask and spray the missing cross.
Dal.
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Dal,
Excellent results with your experiment my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Dal,
Very impressive technique and one I'll be trying. Thanks for the link, veeeery interesting!
Cheers,
Lance
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G'day, Gents.
Things have been very busy lately- I've barely had time to browse the builds on this board for inspiration. But thanks to a visit to the dentist yesterday I had an afternoon off (so a broken tooth and root-canal has some good points) and got some more work done. Things haven't gone quite the way I planned- I've been a bit heavy handed with the dot filter, so the old Pfalz' top wing looks a little weather-beaten compared to existing photo's. The flash reduces the look a bit, but you'll see what I mean:
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz_mine_76a.jpg)
Then I tried the pastels technique that Lance, Bud and others have done so well. It was difficult, but I managed to restrain myself and the weathering here is much more subtle. Again my old Olympus C750 has washed the colours out, but you can get a bit of a hint:
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz_mine_75a.jpg)
I masked the lower wing, to paint on the missing cross, a week or so ago. Tonight I painted it on, using well-thinned Vallejo Black. I'm happy with the way this turned out, though the paint is greyer than the decals. So I over-painted the decal on the lower starboard wing to make them more of a match. I'll touch up a couple of things and then finish weathering the bottom wings (yes, it would have been smarter to do the cross then weather......).
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz_mine_73a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_Pfalz_mine_79a.jpg)
Then it's an overall spray matt varnish on the crosses, add the older style crosses over the top to simulate the older, more gloss paint that shows in the photo's, and lastly a light, all-over coat of semi-gloss to blend it all together (the matt on the crosses shouldn't be too effected) before weathering the radiator and engine panels.
Finally it will be on to the rigging :o I'm still trying to find a way to represent the splicing on the eyes that Tony showed us. No luck yet, but I'll keep at it when I have the time.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Great progress Dal, looking good.
Andrew
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G'day, All.
Work and life have been interfering with my modeling, but I've been plugging away at this after work. Apart from some detail painting (weathering the tyres and undercarriage cords, and modifying the crosses to show the over-painting that occurred), all that's left is the rigging. It's turned out more weathered than I wanted, but I've learned a lot from this build. I like the dot filter technique, I just have to learn some restraint with it. It even works on Mr Metal Color metallics You need to let the paint sit on some printer paper for a couple of minutes to soak up excess oil and use a dry brush to spread the oil paint- any thinner lifts the metallic straight off. What I like is that the oil paint tints the metal, but allows the metallic sheen to show through. I had less luck using the pastels, but I think they'd probably work better on a less glossy surface than I had. Again it's something else to experiment with.
Rigging has begun, after I found Keith's description of how he simulates the way the eyes are done (and the photo's of his brilliant Rumpler). I removed the rigging I'd done and tried again using the twist technique Keith described. After a few false starts I have the last five cables drying, then I'll use a little PVA glue to simulate the cloth wrapping. Then it's fit the struts and top wing before finishing the rigging.
Here's two shots of progress to date. The poor old model looks like it's undergoing some drastic emergency surgery with tweezers and pin vices hanging off it. You can see what I mean by the weathering, too.
Cheers.
Dal.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/Pfalz_mine_83.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/Pfalz_mine_85.jpg)
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Looking good,
I'm glad you tried my newish way of doing the cables. It can be a bit hit and miss but easy to recycle the eyelets if they mess up. I Just hope I didnt cause you too much extra work Dai.
Keith
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Looks great Dal!
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G'day, Gents.
Keith, any extra work caused was due to my own fumbling fingers. Thanks Tony, it's better than I hoped for my first "bidcage", but still a long way from where I want to be. I suppose I'll have to keep practicing. ;D
As the photo's below show, I still have a fair way to go before I can claim to have a handle on rigging. This is attempt No 4, and despite some saggy wires it's still the best I've managed. However, I tried something different when doing the internal bracing on my SPAD XIII. I used soft plastic microtube (0.4mm OD, 0.2mm ID) from MFH. You can see the range here: http://www.bnamodelworld.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&search_in_description=0&keyword=tube&page=2
In the first photo you can see the tubing used to form the eyelet. What I really liked is that the lines are easily tensioned. One of the big problems I had with twisting the line, as Keith does, was getting consistent tension. I'm tempted to redo the rigging again, using this technique, and this time I'll wait until all the lines are done before using some heat for the final tightening. That's one mistake I made on the previous attempts- I heated each line but, as I did more, the first ones sagged.
I've really enjoyed this build, mistakes and all, as I've learned quite a lot. A few little details to do, perhaps re-rig it using the microtube, and I'll stop before I stuff up all my work. I'll keep working on the SPAD, though I'll wait until I have more rigging experience and will take things slowly. I've got the J.1 ready to go next and two weeks to go before retiring, so I shouldn't take as long to get this one finished.
Cheers.
Dal
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/SPAD_XIII8.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/Pfalz_mine_88.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/Pfalz_mine_89.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/Pfalz_mine_90.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/Pfalz_mine_91.jpg)
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Looks good from here. Sharp scheme!!
Steve
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You're plodding along quite nicely Dal, I like the scheme you used, very eye catching and everything else looks fine from where i'm sitting.
Thanks for putting me on to the small plastic tube, I have been trying to source some locally for a while now.
Des.
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That is looking lovely, Dal -
I Look forward to seeing the end the end result, mate.
regards
Dave
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Hey Dal!
Looks Great!
-Roger "The Master Scrounger" Nilson
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Hello Dal:
I have to echo the sentiment expressed here. I think you did an outstanding job on it. Nice colorful scheme. Thanks for sharing your work and references.
Best
Mark
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Hey Dal.
It looks great, specially painting scheme.
Adam.
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very nice stuff dal. did you ever receive the resin control panel i sent you a couple weeks ago?
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She's a beauty Dal - great colours!!
Andrew
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G'day, Gents.
Thanks for the kind words. My lady can take credit for the colour scheme- I was looking at doing Müller's, but I wasn't going to discourage her interest.
Scott, not yet. But the mail can be slow, sometimes. I'll let you know when it arrives, mate.
Dal.