forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Ian from Doncaster on November 12, 2013, 10:21:39 AM
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Finally tonight I got back to WWI modelling, having completed the Airfix Bentley - what a pig of a disappointing kit that was!
Anyway, the Albie was a gift from my partner's father, and I bought the "Bavarians" decals in order to make the Karl Hopf Jasta 76b version. Two reasons, one, no lozenge! Secondly, my partner herself is from Wurzburg, Karl Hopf's home town, so this was a no brainer really.
I started by cutting out the fuselage halves and inner frames. I did this so that I could dry assemble the parts and prime with a sand colour paint spray as a base for the wooden interior. I used tiny spots of liquid mask as a temporary "glue" to hold the components together. The result is I can see precisely where on the fuselage NOT to paint, so that I can avoid tolerance and fit issues later.
I also started on the seat, cut out, painted, varnished awaiting belts. All this work in about 3 hours - far far quicker than the Bentley for a kit that cost less than half the price!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/start_zps4d3b8a6a.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/frames1_zps3c45c1f1.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/dryfitprime_zpsc40f4add.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/prime2_zpsb2ca704e.jpg)
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Ian, Looking good! That is a clever way to keep paint out of the slots for locating the formers!
RAGIII
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Ian, Looking good! That is a clever way to keep paint out of the slots for locating the formers!
RAGIII
I learned the hard way with previous kits especially the Pup. The dry fitting was almost completely dry - I barely needed any liquid mask to hold the bits together. I have some woodgrain decals for this kit somewhere (HGW I think) that I will need to find, they got put away some months ago...
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Ian, Looking good! That is a clever way to keep paint out of the slots for locating the formers!
RAGIII
I must agree, Ian. Brilliant idea. And welcome back. Sorry the Bentley was such a pig. Still, I'll bet she's a silk purse now.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks Bud :) Bentley looks OK, from a distance. For a UK£100 kit you'd have expected more than molded rubber straps with integrated buckles for the bonnet/hood restraining straps. I scratched some thin fake leather strips and made crude buckles from plasticard and brass tube - looks better than the kit parts but don't examine too closely! If I get time I'll upload some pics in the off-topic area.
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Great start Ian, I bet this will be a great build.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Looking really good so far Ian, the liquid mask idea is brilliant and will save a lot of headaches later on. It sounds as if your Airfix Bentley is as bad as my Omega Mosca bis.
Des.
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Looking forward to following your build, Ian. Thanks so much for the
tip using liquid mask. Brilliant!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks all. I am looking forward to progressing this kit, one stage at a time. This is what I really like about WWI kits, you can make a component or small assembly as complete in one session, such as the seat or propeller.
Tonight I made the propeller - cut out, sprayed the base sand colour, masked up the laminatons and coated in dark earth. Then I smoothed off the painted surface with micromesh and coated with an oil paint mix. Into the cupboard for a week before Klear coating. The hub won't get a metal paint as it is to be covered by the spinner.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/prop1_zps1efd070e.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/prop2_zps1388cd34.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/prop3_zps23f7ec98.jpg)
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Beautiful work on the propeller Ian, Bob's "strippers" appear to have worked well with your masking.
Des.
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Nice start, and I too like the "paint out of the formers" method. I'd almost guess that would work with the Pfalz also.
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Hello Ian,
Very, very nice propeller. Unbelievable that this is handmade. Beautiful work!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Crikey Ian!
Lovely looking prop :o
Well done!
Von Buckle ;)
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Thanks folks, the prop is the kit prop with 2 tone paint, and oils for wood grain. The technique of masking by eye works OK, but if you look too close you'll see the laminations are not quite parallel and are slightly different from one blade to the other. Still, I'm happy enough so far. For a future kit I'll use one of Doug's (or the other company, can't recall the name just now) wooden ones.
Mike, I believe the dry assembly/prime method would work on many occasions. Notably the WNW Pup/Triplane for the inner cockpit assembly as the fit and tolerances there are very tight.
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Beautiful finish on the prop, Ian! Nicely done.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie :)
I prepped and primed and oiled the wooden components for the cockpit and engine bay tonight, put away for the oils to cure whilst I'm away for a week. Will do more next weekend.
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Your prop is awesome!
RAGIII
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The propeller is stunning.
Adam.
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Hello Ian:
Welcome back to the fold. I like your idea of putting the formers and painting to keep the paint out of the slots. The prop looks the business to me. Practice makes prefect. I like the Doug Craner Props and will be ordering a few, as I don't do the laminate very well.
Looking forward to more.
Best
Mark
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Super work on the prop, Ian and what a great idea with the liquid mask! Thanks for sharing this with us.
Best wishes,
Nigel
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Looking very nice so far Ian!
I did this one in 1:72 so I'm looking forward to seeing it done in 32nd!
Ian
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Thanks folks..
A bit more progress in recent days. The fuselage insides are painted as are the engine compartment formers. Cockpit almost complete, need to finish the control stick, aileron cable pulleys, rudder bar and interior rigging. One of the support struts under the rudder bar assembly snapped off, but I rescued the part from the carpet monster and will re-fit later. The former holding the ammo boxes etc is loosely fitted for now.
I did consider removing the ejector pin marks on the interior, however they will be barely seen, if at all, once everything is closed up.
This is going together nicely, albeit I have already had to do some touch up painting where I have been heavy handed at first ??? In the second pic, you will see the interior green paint for the engine bay, with the fitting slots for the formers kept clean - these were internally masked with Bob's strippers during the colour application.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/interior1_zps32aed8a7.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/interior2_zps8d77537d.jpg)
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That cockpit interior detail and woodwork is superb, Ian. This Build has really got my attention and you have a magnificent Build going here, looking forward to seeing more.
Cheers,
Lance
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Beautiful interior work, Ian. It is a real pleasure following your build.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thank you :) I am not going OTT with extra detailing on this one as it will be all closed up, cowling panels on etc.
A couple of questions to those who have built this model:
Internal cockpit rigging - especially aileron control lines. The little pulleys are fitted to each fuselage half, yet link to the central control stick. Now I am no keyhole surgeon, so I would struggle to attach the lines once both fuselage halves are buttoned up! I plan to assemble everything as far as I can to the starboard half, then loosely attach the port half using tape as a hinge along the bottom edge. then I should hopefully have enough room to rig up the aileron control lines (using elastic for stretch) prior to closing up properly. I plan to drill through where the wing root sits so I can pull through this rigging which is then hidden when the wings go on. What did everyone else do with those lines?
There are some semi-circular depressions on the edges of the fuselage halves - are these ejector pin marks? they are just visible on the bottom fuselage edge if you look closely at the first pic zoomed in. When joined up, this gives the impression of thin slots along the join. I guess the holes I see are for drainage, but these "slots" look wrong to me? Shouldn't be an issue to fill these depressions if that is correct?
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I can't answer your D.Va rigging Q with authority as the D.V differs in this regard. I am interested to see what you do here. When I build my D.Va I will probably do something akin to what you are proposing, seems relatively straightforward, just leave plenty of line on the port side.
Be aware that the wing root fit is very tight so anything you do here be careful as there is no room for slop. Pay attention to how the lower wing tabs fit into the lower former under the fuel tank. That's what is supposed to locate the and it is a bit iffy...
As for the "extra" holes in the spine, yes, these are ejector marks and should be filled, leaving the drain holes (which have little grommets on the real thing) See excellent Jamo pics of D.Va belly for refs.
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Thank you :) I am not going OTT with extra detailing on this one as it will be all closed up, cowling panels on etc.
A couple of questions to those who have built this model:
Internal cockpit rigging - especially aileron control lines. The little pulleys are fitted to each fuselage half, yet link to the central control stick. Now I am no keyhole surgeon, so I would struggle to attach the lines once both fuselage halves are buttoned up! I plan to assemble everything as far as I can to the starboard half, then loosely attach the port half using tape as a hinge along the bottom edge. then I should hopefully have enough room to rig up the aileron control lines (using elastic for stretch) prior to closing up properly. I plan to drill through where the wing root sits so I can pull through this rigging which is then hidden when the wings go on. What did everyone else do with those lines?
There are some semi-circular depressions on the edges of the fuselage halves - are these ejector pin marks? they are just visible on the bottom fuselage edge if you look closely at the first pic zoomed in. When joined up, this gives the impression of thin slots along the join. I guess the holes I see are for drainage, but these "slots" look wrong to me? Shouldn't be an issue to fill these depressions if that is correct?
While I'm definately not the most knowledgable person around I will try to give my answers to your questions :) Please don't take them as absolute truth :)
1) Alieron control cables - the only way to have them tightened is to drill holes thru the fuselage or...to just ignore them, they will be hardly visible and actually the only one knowing that they are missing will be you! Ofcourse we all do very complicate things for parts that only we know that are there :) I suppose this is part of the hobby
2) If you mean the small holes (approx 0,6 mm diameter) along the joint, than yes, they are drainage holes. I think Bertl in his build put some 0,5mm tube into those to make them even more visible. There was one of the Jamo's pics of the Vintage Aviator's Albie, where it was clearly visible that something leaks out thru them and you have to take it in regard when aging the model.
I hope this helps, if not, well, there is so much knowledge on this site that I'm sure, someone will answer them better than me.
best regards,
Sahso
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A little more progress on the cockpit, almost done. The remaining components are assembled to the port fuselage, and the control rigging added, apart from some of the aileron control cables which will be finished just before the halves are joined. I used elastic (the sort WNW sells) stretched and brushed with Mr Metal Stainless. The rudder bar loops are the same material, painted black.
The instructions call for the engine to be constructed before joining the fuselage halves, so that's next. The other half fits OK, even with my precautions there is likely to be a thin gap, nothing too much to worry about though.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/interior3_zps120201e3.jpg)
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You are doing a fantastic job with the interior Ian, everything is so neat and tidy and the wood looks excellent.
Des.
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Ian, FWiw, the engine (and the formers forward of the "firewall" can be safely left off until after the fuselage is closed.
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Thank you :)
Des, looking at the pic now, it would have been better I think to have some more variety in wood tones. There is a variation with the little shelf that sits under the instrument/switch panel but this was after the original part was lost and I used a bit of plasticard as a replacement, painted later and separately.
Bo, you are correct. Looking at the model there is clearly no issue with zipping it up now. I have the engine bay formers and bearers painted and ready to put together, so that will be a quick job to include these parts.
I may cut out one of the guns to check the fit in the ammo chutes and supports etc before zipping up, to see if I need to remove paint from the joins rather than later on.
As advised above, I may add some short lengths of brass tube into the drainage holes underneath, and also check the wing root fitting so that I can do any internal filing necessary before glueing the halves together.
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Fine work on this model, Ian.
I would recommend leaving the engine before you airbrush the fuselage. If you install it beforehand, masking of the engine may be troublesome, especially when you detail it with tiny bits.
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Ian,
Your interior is looking excellent! If you are closing your engine covers I have found that it reduces the need to mask the engine if you test fit, then paint them before assembly. I am looking forward to your solution of the Aileron controls as this is one Issue I have contemplated on since the kit was issued ???
RAGIII
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Thank you :)
Prez, I agree, I will paint the fuselage before installing the engine. Engine detailing will be little - spark plugs and cables - as I prefer to leave the cowlings on.
Rick, I will definitely paint the cowlings separately. As for the aileron controls, they are partially done although difficult to see on that pic. The port side pulley is currently hanging loose, attached to one rigging line which passes through the tiny hole I drilled in the starboard side wing root. Through this hole also passes the link cable between both fuselage halves. These lines are taped to the outside of the fuselage for safekeeping. I need to carefully attach the cable that runs from the top of each pulley to the lever on the bottom of the control column assembly. Then as the halves go together I will attach the port side pulley using the stretch of the cable to allow this. Then I will pull through the slack through the wing root holes, glue and trim. Fiddly and will hardly be seen once complete, but as they say on a certain UK quiz show, I've started so I'll finish!
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Tonight I put the fuselage halves together, having just about managed to rig up the aileron control lines. They are just about visible here. The fuselage goes together OK, but I will tidy up the join. Next up will be to smarten up the cockpit padding and paint the fuselage ahead of the woodgrain decals.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/interior4_zps305ee781.jpg)
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I started on the fuselage exterior, sprayed a sand base coat, and added some drybrushed pastel powders for colour variation. After a klear coat, I tried to apply the HGW woodgrain decal. It just didn't work for me, and I think oil paint woodgrain will be better for me. Also I didn't realise the Bavarian diamond pattern decal was blue/clear rather than blue/off white, so I had to undercoat the rear half in white, then apply more klear before decalling. The decals are not quite a perfect fit. Whether this is because the decals themselves are not quite right, or I haven't applied them perfectly, or a bit of both, I just don't know. From a distance they look OK, just don't get the magnifier out! The decals will get dulled down eventually as I think the finish is too glossy just now, even without the camera flash.
I will work on the engine/wings whilst the oils for the fuselage dry.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/fuselage1_zpsb12cca5d.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/fuselage2_zps3a161825.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/fuselage3_zpsc58e8fd8.jpg)
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Very very fine build Ian. What a beauty it will be.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Lovely job, Ian. I really like your colour scheme. Too bad WnW is sold out of this decal set.
I would love to duplicate your choice. Oh well, at least I can enjoy watching your
excellent efforts. I look forward to seeing your next progress photos.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie, Patrick.
My next job is to do the woodgrain oils on the fuselage and mix the Bavarian blue paint for the tailplanes/elevators/wheel trims etc. I was quite surprised that the decal set has the white stripe decals to overlay on the blue horizontal tail surfaces - which would be otherwise straightforward to mask and paint - yet does not have a decal for the C shaped complex curve cowling at the front of the aircraft. I can see a use for Bob's masking strips there...
I had this in my stash over 2 years and didn't realise until yesterday that this decal sheet had sold out. I am only using the decals for this option, so would be happy to swap/pass on the spares for the other options.
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You are correct - from a distance those diamonds really look fine.
Stefan
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Ian,
Beautiful work so far! I am looking forward to the wood grain!!
RAGIII
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I have prepared and primed in white the components that will be painted blue, or have part blue paint. As I will be mixing the blue colour, I need to do these all together, then the woodgrain can be done.
Fortunately this version doesn't have lozenge on the wings, so that will help with keeping this a quick-ish build.
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Outstanding progress, Ian! She's certainly gonna be a dazzler.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks everyone :)
After a few trials I managed to mix a blue paint on my pallette tonight. It didn't quite match the decal on the fuselage, but I mixed enough to paint all the relevant parts in one go so at least those parts will all match each other. No time for pics but will hopefully post more tomorrow.
In mixing the blue I managed by accident to mix an acceptable shade of mauve/violet, which I have saved for the wings....
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Shaping up nicely and looking real good Ian ;)
Andrew
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Looking very nice indeed. It's quite na remarcable scheme.
Cheers
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Thank you, certainly is colourful...
Here are some of the parts prepared this week. For the tail surfaces, I sprayed the base white coat, then masked off the stripe areas and coated in the blue mix - this was done by hand in several coats then a final coat applied with a polishing cloth much like when polishing shoes. I find that works quite well for surfaces, as you get a smooth satin finish and raised areas are a little more glossy, resulting in a slightly varied tone throughout. Not sure if that shows up here but I think it works.
The cowlings will get a shot of klear - these and the prop spinner are also dry brushed with the brush I use for polishing up Mr Metal - just adds a slight metallic sheen to the raised edges etc. I don't think that is visible on this pic.
I had to do the wheels twice - having painted the hub covers blue, I messed up the tyres. No matter how careful I was with letting the thin grey paint flow up to the rim, some overlapped and it looked messy. So I stripped the lot, repainted the blue and used my circle cutter to make a mask from tape before spraying the grey tyre colour. This works ok, but is never perfect as the inner wheel cover is slightly conical so a flat mask will not sit perfectly. Anyway, the result is much better than my first go, why I didn't do that initially I just don't know!
Fuselage is now ready for woodgrain oils, but I ran out of time last night.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/bluebits_zps17b940d2.jpg)
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I love the scheme you have chosen!!! She`s going to be a beauty Ian!!
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Beautiful work Ian! I have this sheet too and want to do this bird eventually. :D
I think you've nailed the blue--it really looks good. ;D Sorry for your hiccups with the wheels, but I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who has that problem. ;) I always feel a little heartburn when I get to that part, and the circle masking is just such a pain to deal with as you've noted.
I'm really looking forward to seeing this one all assembled. Very well done!
Regards,
Bob
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Thanks Bob.
Some while ago (2 years plus) I emailed WNW and suggested they supply the wheel components as separate tyres and covers for front and back. I see from newer kits (in my stash, Eindekkers, can't be sure of the others...) that this is now happening. Painting the parts separately gives a much neater finish, but could be argued it takes away some of the skills?
Also, having separate tyres on the sprue makes it easier to use the spoked wheels now available.
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Looks like you have matched the blue, Ian. Well done on that and your painting
in general. I am amazed that you can hand paint so flawlessly. Super work. The
Alby is going to be beautiful when you are done. I look forward to the next update.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Cheers Ernie!
For painting, I prime with a rattle tin and then overpaint mostly with Revell Aqua. I find that paint brand works very well both in an airbrush and particularly by hand, the latter always over a primer. The paint is like melted chocolate to start with, and thins beautifully with a drop of water. I have no affiliation with Revell but must give their paints a positive recommendation.
I recently started to use the polishing cloth technique on larger surfaces and found it works quite well. Polishing in tiny amounts of the same colour smooths out almost all remaining visible brush strokes. Only really works for individual components - I will try this on the wings too.
Like many, I can only airbrush outside - limited opportunities at this time of year in the UK where I can only spray on dry weekends in the daytime!
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Hello, :)
Really beautiful, much prettier than mine, but this is my first flight of the first World War.
I saw the color more orange than I did fuselage, but the ribs are done, it will be for the next
Congratulations, I have a good example in front
@ +
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Thank you Gravos.
I need to paint woodgrain on the fuselage. I will use oil paint for this. There are many other Albatros DVa models on this forum to review, much better than mine!
Look here http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=640.0;topicseen (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=640.0;topicseen) for some examples.
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Hi Ian
I really like how you have handled the blue (and much else besides) I may be a PC10/12 man, but these darn DVa schemes can turn a person's head!
Best wishes
Nigel
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Looking spectacular Ian. I really like the blue you came up with, it's going to be a real eye catcher.
Cheers,
Lance
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Hello
Thank you for the link
The one I like is the DVs "LULU"
Oil Painting I know is nothing at all >:(
I never make new aircraft, but a condition of use
Thank you for the exchanges allow me to progress
@ +
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Really Nice work Ian,
For the tyres have you ever tried Vallejo Dark Rubber?
It is water soluable and I use a small brush and capillary action to form the boundary between the tyre and the wheel hub cover.
You can then let it dry and fill in the rest of the tyre colour by painting up to the boundary in small stages....works a treat.
Looking forward to seeing your Albatros when it is complete.
Cheers,
D i D
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Really great work on the matching of the blue and masking! Looking forward to your continued progress!!
Your method of rubbing the final coat on is really intriguing. If I get brave I might give it a go someday!
RAGIII
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Cheers folks :) No Dave I have not tried that paint, often I just mix grey to taste, so to speak.
Worked on the wings this weekend whilst the fuselage oils are drying. Having cut out the wings and sprayed a rattle tin primer, I looked to spray the undersides first. However, for some reason I couldn't get the airbrushed paint to atomise properly. I don't think the paint was too thin, nor was there a problem with pressure, but it was as if the paint was not tacky enough so it just puddled on the surface :( So I stripped the puddles that hadn't even begun to dry (acrylic) and hand brushed/polished instead. Finish was OK but not as smooth as I like.
The upper surfaces were treated to the same with light olive, then masked and brushed with the violet mix. Had the airbrush been working I would have sprayed this too. I wonder if it is anything to do with ambient temperature - I spray outside and it was about 6C?
Anyway, the polishing gave an almost glossy finish, and when the decals went on, sealed with Klear, the surfaces were far too glossy. I used micro mask tape to keep the ribs glossy, then used Humbrol satin cote spray to dull down the surface. Then I added rib shading by drybrushing pastels - I think this is a bit overdone, less is more perhaps? Another blast of satincote before removing the masking leaves the wings done.
I dirtied up the wheels and tail surfaces with pastels and again sealed with satin cote spray. This is going OK, but I really need to sort out the airbrush - the results would be so much better. I have used the airbrush recently with normal results, so I am at a loss.
lower wings - upper and lower painted.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/lowerwings1_zps6ee769c3.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/lowerwings2_zps715e3fa6.jpg)
Cross decals applied.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/wingdecals_zps61534d4f.jpg)
Rib masking to maintain a glossy appearance where the "fabric stretches over the ribs.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/ribshading1_zps6fe3bea0.jpg)
Rib shading compared - you can see the difference between the glossy surface pre-shading and after with the satincote applied..
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/underribs_zps1ecd452c.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/lowewingfinished_zpsc6bd77d2.jpg)
Shading on the horizontal tail surfaces and elevator.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/tailshading_zps00e17271.jpg)
Shading on wheels.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/weatheredwheels_zpsae69add0.jpg)
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Your paint work and shading are looking terrific! Lovely!!
RAGIII
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Ian,
I think your Post Shading is superb; just the right amount and certainly not overdone.(which I do far too often!) As for the Airbrush, small world! I have two Iwatas and both were getting rather balky and, in fact, unusable. I clean them thoroughly after each use however had never done a complete "stripdown" cleaning. Having done that just yesterday they are both operating like new again; I was shocked at the "gunge" that I removed from the tube the needle installs in with a tiny wire brush....certainly explained the crappy results prior! Perhaps this may help with yours, a first step at any rate.
Your Albie is coming along in spectacular fashion; I'll be following it closely.
Cheers,
Lance
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Great paint work, Ian. I think you have done a masterful job with the
shading. As for the airbrush troubles, I clean the airbrush usually with
Vallejo airbrush cleaner, which I find works very well. I do a total strip-down
cleaning when I notice the spray pressure dropping for no reason. For
those times I use lacquer (cellulose) thinner or window cleaner to bathe
the parts using small airbrush cleaning brushes to make sure all the gunk
is removed. You have to be careful using these cleaners as they can attack
the O-rings and gaskets of some airbrushes (do some research on yours).
With mine (Harder & Steenbeck), it doesn't seem to bother them. I make
sure to flush them out after with my normal airbrush cleaner when I'm done.
It really makes quite a difference when you get it all cleaned out.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks folks, I have a basic Badger 200 brush, and use their proprietary spray cleaner after each use, with the pin removed.
I had no problem a couple of months ago with enamel paint... I'll have another go - someone else told me my paint could still be a tad too thick?
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Thanks folks, I have a basic Badger 200 brush, and use their proprietary spray cleaner after each use, with the pin removed.
I had no problem a couple of months ago with enamel paint... I'll have another go - someone else told me my paint could still be a tad too thick?
Good point, Ian. The thinning can make a world of difference. :D
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Will try again on another job...
Meanwhile, back at the ranch...
I made some eyelets and turnbuckles for the rigging. Better to make these now and fit to the wings etc with the parts separate. I made eyelets by twisting individual copper strands from electric wiring around a .4mm drill bit. I cut lengths of .5mm dia brass tube for turnbuckle bodies, but the twisted copper strands on the eyelets were just too wide for the tubing, so I used monofilament passed through the brass tube twice, then pulled through to leave a small loop at one end to make the turnbuckle end loop, the exposed thread end being secured with a drop of CA. Those ends will then be glued into the location holes. I'll use the eyelets with trimmed strands for the attachments at the opposite end of each line.
Took all evening to make over 50 eyelets and 30 turnbuckles, but will hopefully be worth it in the long run.
Credit to Bob's Buckles for the buckling advice on his website :)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/buckles_zps0befc667.jpg)
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Ian,
on Des' homepage is a description on "how to increase the inner diameter of your brass tubing". Maybe you could use this next time for your copper eyelets?
Stefan
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Thanks Stefan - certainly a good idea if I wanted to make eyelets at both ends of the turnbuckle representation. Or I need thinner copper!
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C'est super
Félicitations
@+
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Ian, your paintwork is fantastic as is your shading. Extremely nice.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Outstanding paint work, Ian. Your blue matches up beautifully with the diamonds.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thank you for the encouraging comments :)
A little more progress last night. Painted and trimmed the turnbuckles for the elevator and ailerons, elevator shown here. I am quite pleased with the results.
Assembled and painted the undercarriage, here it is shown dry fitted to the aircraft. The undercarriage components push fit, I will only need glue when I fix the legs to the fuselage permanently. Eyelets already attached to the base of the legs, before assembly, to save a fiddly job later, although they may not be easy to see here... Undercarriage seems to sit correctly without any tweaking, so far....
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/elevatorbuckles_zps1111bb3e.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/ucleft_zps708dbf9c.jpg)
The cowlings, cabane struts, spinner/prop loosely dry fitted here..
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/ucright_zpsed17de8a.jpg)
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I'm really impressed, Ian! Your work on the elevator is superb. With the cowlings,
prop and undercarriage in place, even dry fit, she is really taking shape. Nicely done. :D
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Thanks Ernie.
The model has some subtle weathering with humbrol powders and pastel powders dry brushed on, and the "metal" components are drybrushed with my mr metal polishing brush, to leave a little metallic sheen and highlight worn paint in raised areas. Unfortunately the pics don't show this so in these shots the model looks "clean".
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Shaping up very nicely Ian! Great prop too. ;D I particularly like the pre-rigged elevator horns. The lead wires to the turnbuckles appear to be quite stiff. What did you use? Looks great! Very well done.
Regards,
Bob
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Thanks Bob. The material used is a monofilament, can't remember the rating, with the loose ends are CA'd together to secure the turnbuckle. They appear stiff due to the short lengths, but they are flexible enough to bend into the correct orientations with the final rigging lines.
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She looks amazing! Ian the turnbuckles and the eylets seem to be first class job! I hope to see her in the finished section soon!
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Looking really nice, Ian ;)
Keep up the great work.
VB
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Ian,
Beautiful work my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Ian,
This continues to be a lovely build! I am following closely as I will soon start my DVa.
RAGIII
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Thank you all for the comments. I had a bit of a mishap and dropped the fuselage assembly, requiring a bit of keyhole surgery to re-attach some of the interior components. All sorted now and the repairs are only really noticable to me as I know where they are!
I also painted all the metalwork on the forward fuselage. This was a bit of a struggle as the circular hatches are too big for me to use my punch set to make masks, and too small for the circle cutter. I painted these by hand, and invariably there was some overspill. No matter how carefully I scraped off the excess (acrylic, over the Klear coated fuselage) there was some removal of the woodgrain. I touched this up with oil paint and a toothpick. Back in the cupboard for another 5 days to dry again! The metalwork will get a steel colour drybrush, then once sealed with more Klear, and generally weathered, the rough edges should be camoulflaged enough.
Meanwhile I have prepared the cabanes and wing struts, which have some stencil decals to apply, and I can work on the engine as well as fitting turnbuckles/eyelets to the wings prior to final assembly. The only parts left to make up are the guns and windscreen.
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Ian,
That technique of using monofil for the aileron control wire terminal connections is brilliant, and looks much better then the other techniques I see here. Another little trick for my tool box and Thanks! She's still coming along in spectacular fashion BTW.
Cheers,
Lance
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Thank you Lance, I just substituted the mono for the extended copper wire eyelet. The turnbuckles are all trimmed to fit and attached to the wings, ailerons etc, just the cowling ones to go. The opposite end eyelets are attached too, with the rigging lines tied at the eyelet ends. That will mean making the tight connections at the turnbuckle ends, therefore more room to manouvre. I have used the WNW "knitting in" type elastic, painted mr metal steel, for the lines themselves.
Pics not great, but here is a lower wing with turnbuckles attached, and the aileron cables fitted into their holes. The blue tints on the wing surface are reflections of some christmas lights. Hopefully I'll get round to some decent daylight pics soon.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/rigging1_zps21147e57.jpg)
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I made sporadic progress over Christmas, but have almost done. I made the engine, using Taurus plugs and although I did manage to wire them up eventually, it is a bit messy and will be hidden by the cowlings. On my DVIIs I will wire up the plugs etc before assembly, now that I know how long the cables need to be.
Guns etc all done and added, engine and propeller, cowlings and lower wings attached. Although I was careful not to paint the joining surfaces in the interior, I neglected to do that on the joining "plates" where the cowlings sit, so they stand proud a little. Also, I did the same with the gun attachments and the exhaust which doesn't sit 100% correctly, so I used clear glue to fill the gaps and will touch up with paint later.
I made a few mistakes due to rushing, and trying to correct the mistakes once assembled. My biggest modelling vice is impatience!
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/enginein1_zps20e265cf.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/enginein2_zps004d5629.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/enginein3_zps9d43cfd5.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/enginein4_zpsaf04e4bc.jpg)
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The Alby is looking even more beautiful as you go along, Ian. The attention
you pay to small bits shows as the aeroplane takes shape. Wonderful work
and a credit to your talent as a modeller.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hello Ian
This is shaping up beautifully. I can't wait to see how it progresses.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Your Albatros is looking great! You are a very neat and clean builder, something I have never mastered!! Lovely work!
RAGIII
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Hello Ian, marvellous build a real pleasure for the eye. One of the nicests I have seen yet.
Kind regards
Patrick
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:)
Really beautiful, congratulations :D :D :D
@+
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Thank you for all the positive comments :) My photography is hiding the less effective aspects of this model - deliberately!
Almost done - today I was preparing the upper wing for fitting, attaching the struts and taping the half-rigged lines out of the way when as we must all have done, a finger wet with CA touched the upper wing top surface, revealing a perfect miniature map of Madegascar in between two wing ribs!
Fortunately I still have the original paint, so I was able to sand off the whole inter-rib space, repaint, reshade the ribs then mask all but the gap and spray with satin varnish. The repair looks OK, apart from one raised area too close to the rib to sand off properly. I'll post a pic later, see if you can identify where the repair is!
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I have now attached the upper wing. Oh Boy those struts are thin! 3 of the 4 broke at the attachment points and needed CA to fix, but fixed they are so all that remains now is the rigging. Pics to follow later.
Also, here is the promised pic of the repaired upper wing after the finger-of-CA incident... :-X
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/repairedwing_zpseffb5053.jpg)
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Nice recovery from the glue print! I too have done that!
RAGIII
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Hello Ian:
Just catching up on your build log on this. Really outstanding workmanship all around. The scheme is neat and you managed to recover nicely from the mishap on the upper wing. Your turnbuckles look the business alright on the elevator control horns. Very nicely done and am looking forward to more as progress to completion. WNW is sold out of this sheet? Bummer.
Best
Mark
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Great repair of the wing finish Ian. The colours look good as well.
I look forward to the next phase. Good work!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hello Ian. It looks like you've nailed that repair. Well done!
Best wishes
Nigel
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Thanks folks, the repair is in between the ribs immediately to the left of the radiator as you look at the pic. Thankfully it wasn't anywhere near the catastrophe it could have been on the woodgrain or on the fuselage decals!
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Ian,
I can't see any evidence of the "sticky finger incident" in your photo; nice recovery! As the saying goes, I have "been there, done that, and have the T-shirt to prove it". :-[ Well done Sir!
Cheers,
Lance
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Apart from trying to straighten up some turnbuckles, this is done. As with my previous builds, I need to stop before I ruin the model trying to correct each imperfection...
I'll try and take some better pics soon, in daylight, and do a completed build thread, where I will discuss the kit and my experiences with it etc. For now, here are some pics, please excuse the poor lighting/flash reflections. which hides some of the weathering etc.
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/finished3_zps4d990293.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/finished1_zps89c04cf0.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/finished2_zpse3d2009a.jpg)
(http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/ianfromdoncaster/Albie/finished4_zps8ff624cb.jpg)
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Magnificent Alby, Ian! I absolutely love that Bavarian paint scheme and
you have more than done it justice. It has been a treat to follow your
build and I look forward to another. Well done, my friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Magnificent build Ian, extremely well painted, very nice colors. Many many congratulations.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Ian:
Truly a great build. I really like the scheme, and although WNW is sold, I do have a nice Pheon Bavarian sheet for it. Your work is inspirational and after looking over several other Albatros builds, I may have to do another. Great job Ian.
Best
Mark
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Beautiful model Ian. Well done.
Cheers
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This one has turned out great! Beautiful scheme and work all around!
RAGIII
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Thank you for all the kind comments. The completed model thread is at http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2851.0#new (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2851.0#new)