forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: Flyjunkie on May 07, 2012, 02:21:35 PM
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O.K. It seems that nowadays You spray an overcoat upon the Model after you've painted, decals, detailed, etc. the Aeroplane...
I can see how this is desirable as I always didn't like the shiny decals over the flat or semi flat paint jobs, 20 years ago. ::)
SOOOOOOOO.. I'd be grateful for recommendations of a Finishing Coat and how one should approach it's application... do I buy a spray can of finisher or do I use my airbrush to apply it...??
I thank any and all assistance in advance... ;D
DEAN ~~~ 8) 8)
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I usually over spray my decals and the plane to a lesser degree with a highly thinned coat of tamiya buff this takes the shine off the decals and blends them into the paint job. Dependant upon the finish I want I'll then add a varnish coat via airbrush.
Vallejo matt varnish straight from the bottle is my current weapon of choice.
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My personal choice for a final clear coat is Humbrol Matt Cote, it is easy to spray (air brush) and dries with a low satin finish, I use enamel thinners to thin it for spraying.
Des.
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For a matt finish you can't beat Winsor & Newton Acrylic Matt UV Varnish, it will spray undiluted, or you can dilute it with water, for satin or gloss finish I use Vallejo varnishes.
Cheers
Pete.
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Rather than firing up the airbrush, I use rattle cans for clear coats. I either use Testors Gloss and Dullcotes or Krylon's gloss, matte and satin clear coats. The Krylon stuff I find at a local art supply store. I always warm them up in hot water before spraying.
Cheers,
Chris
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I use Dullcote, decanted into a bottle, thinned a little with lacquer thinner, then airbrushed. This gives me a pretty good matte finish, and with a bit more thinning it will give a slight sheen. All due respect to Chris, but I've never had much success with the rattle cans. That said, his success with them might just be an indication of how much more advanced he is in this hobby than I! :D
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I had one or two disasters with rattle cans so approach with caution, use those recommended here I guess.. I used Citadel's and Humbrol's and it unfortunately destroyed my finish So I'd go for airbrush every time.
Keith
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Now you guys have me worried. Thirty years and more with using rattle cans and nary a problem. I could be due for a disaster any day now.
Cheers,
Chris
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I airbrush gunze aqueos flat varnish #20......but Pete W&N-really? Youve put me onto something there....again....
Steve
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For a matt finish you can't beat Winsor & Newton Acrylic Matt UV Varnish, it will spray undiluted, or you can dilute it with water, for satin or gloss finish I use Vallejo varnishes.
Cheers
Pete.
Thanks for posting that Pete. I will be needing a matt clear coat in the future and have been undecided. Just went to the on-line art supplier I like to use here in the states and put some on the order list. I'm feeling more comfortable already. ;D ;D ;D
Paddy
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Dean,
Sorry to come into this a bit late -
I'm a brush painter and paint using Revell 'aqua colour' paint - what works for me is using the clear coat (only available in matt or gloss) version of these paints. I will paint on several layers of matt after painting/decalling, etc. You can keep things matt, or if a slight sheen is required, simply mix in some gloss with the matt clear until you get the level of semi gloss finish you are after. The gloss is useful on its own - works well on metallic paint where a real metal shine is required. NOTE: make sure you thin these right down (with water) before applying as these are a milky white liquid straight from the pot and will stain the model if not adequately thinned before use. Very quick and easy to use though - dries quickly and when fully dry pulls all decals tight (and sealing them on the model) onto the model surface. In addition, you will have no variation in finish and blends in decals with the painted surface.
Dave
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the way i do it is paint, future,decals,future,weathering, sometimes more future and then testors dullcote in the rattle can. i have recieve many compliments by people who view my models on my decals looking painted on. the dullcote pulls it all together for me. you have to spray 3-5 very lite coats and its better if its all consistantly glossy before the dullcote.
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WOW!! Thanks for the Relies and all the great information and insight!! I will certainly try both airbrushing and spray Can applications (I am pretty good at spray cans..).. might even give the brush-on approach a try.
Probably do the air brush approach first as i have 2 very good airbrushes , that after practicing on a cardboard box for a length of time - found out I am back to my level of proper Airbrush skills (have not used either Air brush in over 5 years..). I have airbrushed 2 WW Two Airplane models I am working on and the paint jobs came out very good.. for having not airbrushed a model in 20 years i was happy... Next is WW One Aeroplanes, but I "scarified" the WW2 first.. ;)
Again, a Big Thank you to Everyone for their Input, it is very helpful indeed.!!! ;D
DEAN ~~~ 8)
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Dean,
I'll tip in albeit late..........
I use (by Airbrush) Model Master Acryl #4637 Semi Gloss Clear or the Flat version, #4636 thinned about 1part thinner to 3 parts Clear. It has never let me down, dries quickly, and I have some 10 year (at least) old finishes here that are still in excellent condition. It's the final coat after Future followed by decals however I weather after the Clear overcoat. Just another option to consider, works well for me. Use only the Acryl Thinner specified BTW.
Cheers,
Lance
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......but Pete W&N-really? Youve put me onto something there....again....
Steve
You will find when you airbrush the W&N Matt varnish, when it is dry, it is really matt, virtually no hint of shine what so ever.
Cheers
Pete.