forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: lcarroll on October 13, 2013, 02:50:00 AM
-
I've got a couple of "runs" of monofil rigging that have sagged on my Bristol Fighter. I recall seeing reference to using heat to tighten it up; was it heating a metal object (nail, blade etc) and holding it near by?? I don't think a hairdryer would be prudent given other areas would get the effects, and don't think an open flame prudent either!
I've never had this problem before, I think I just didn't tighten it up on installation and failed to notice it ("Old Man's Syndrome"!) Has anyone suffered this problem and repaired it or do I have to remove the runs and start over again? Given the rental costs of trained insects to get the job done between two wings and around the good rigging I am hoping for an easier solution!
Cheers,
Lance :-\
-
I've had that happen before. I found that was the only time being a smoker was useful.
-
Hi Lance,
I've used a lighted joss stick to tighten up slack rigging in the past.Just hold the stick approx an inch or so away from the line(check the heat intensity by putting a finger in the smoke,not directly on the heat source!),or practice with a piece of rigging held between 2 blobs of blu-tac.Let the smoke pass over the line and guage the results with repeated passes until the required rigidity is obtained.Take it slow man,you don't want to melt the line.An added benefit is,if the line shrivels and breaks,the calming effect of the joss stick overcomes the prospect of you pulling your hair out ;D
Dave.
-
Hi Lance,
A soldering iron works well - But be quick! :D
VB
-
Lance, I have had a great deal of luck using wooden matches. I light a match, blow it out, then pass the smoke from the extinguished match under the offending line. Just don't get the hot match head too close. Good luck, buddy.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Lance, I've tried broadly the same approach as Bud when trying to tension rigging made from stretched sprue. Instead of the matchstick though I've used a cocktail stick, lit the end, blown it out and let it cool for a second. It took me far too long to remember that since heat rises I needed to angle things accordingly!
Best wishes
Nigel
-
Thanks for all the great info in record time, Guys. I think I'll try the wooden match method first since I gave up smoking several years ago. As soon as I read Cimmerian's reply I found myself having very evil and dangerous thoughts regarding how much of a cigarette would be left over if I used one as the heat source! It never goes away........... I'll let you all know how it works out.
Cheers, and Thanks again, 8)
Lance
-
Do not give in to the temptation, it really isn't worth it. Use the other guys suggestions - they were much better, especially as I'm pretty much a novice at this biplane stuff.
-
Thanks for the this thread, Lance. I was thinking of the hair dryer, but after reading
here maybe I'll go the wooden match route as well. It probably makes more sense
if there is only one or two to tighten.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
I have used both the hair dryer and a soldering iron, I prefer the soldering iron. I use a small soldering iron and allow it to come up to full heat, I then place the tip of the iron under the line to be tensioned, about 10 - 15mm from the line and moving it along the length line, a back and forth motion. If you hold the heat in one place it will melt the line. Be very watchful of all othe rigging lines because if the iron touches one it will melt and break instantly.
Des.
-
I use old knife blades, heated in a flame and held close. But as Des says, keep an eye on the other wires, if you touch one you WILL have to replace it!
Ian
-
I've also used sticks of incense (joss) as heat source. In my experience the rigging eventually went slack again over time. I'll also echo the warnings previously mentioned having once managed to melt a gouge in the leading edge of a Nieuport wing through carelessness.
-
I used the extinguished match method, worked nicely however I may try the soldering iron in future; steady heat and evenly applied to the entire line makes sense. Thanks again for the feedback, great shopping here!! ;)
Cheers,
Lance
-
I've had this problem with some control wires. I tightened them with a lighter held a long way underneath but they just kept on sagging again so I'll be replacing them with EZ Line.
Is there a way of avoiding the problem in the first place? Maybe I needed to put them under more tension.
-
I do the same: drill through, then thread and tighten the line and hold it tight with a small doll's house clothes peg available from craft stores, then apply the superglue. The heat is just to tighten up anything I may have messed up!
Ian
-
To stop the lines from sagging I always pre-stretch the mono before I fit it to the model. I cut a length of mono then holding one end with one hand I run the mono through my fingers of the other hand stretching it fairly tight over its full length. When I fit the rigging lines I apply tension but not an excessive amount, too much tension can cause the wings or tail to be pulled out of alignment, overly tight rigging lines are not necessary.
Des.
-
Some good tips here, thanks!
Tom
-
Sounds like the next "new idea" progression, may just be a functioning turnbuckle in scale! Now if I could just perfect my Acme "Miniaturizing Atomic Ray Gun"........
-
A fully functioning turnbuckle in 1:32 scale would be quite an achievement, but tightening the turnbuckle would be a task on its own and the amount of movement we would get would be miniscule, probably not enough to tighten a slack line, stick to using heat to take up the slack.
I had to use the soldering iron yesterday to tighten a line on my latest build, the Fokker Spinne, but with there being so many rigging lines I managed to touch one of the other lines and it instantly broke, so I had to replace the line, not a huge issue just a pain. By the way, the soldering iron on the slack line worked extremely well, the line is now nice and tight.
Des.
-
A fully functioning turnbuckle in 1:32 scale would be quite an achievement, but tightening the turnbuckle would be a task on its own and the amount of movement we would get would be miniscule, probably not enough to tighten a slack line, stick to using heat to take up the slack.
I had to use the soldering iron yesterday to tighten a line on my latest build, the Fokker Spinne, but with there being so many rigging lines I managed to touch one of the other lines and it instantly broke, so I had to replace the line, not a huge issue just a pain. By the way, the soldering iron on the slack line worked extremely well, the line is now nice and tight.
Des.
Des,
Man do I feel your pain as I struggle to rig the fuselage for my Voisin Canard. Not that the rigging is all that complicated but rather enough of an issues to make me want to pull my hair out. Assuming of coarse I had any to begin with.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette