forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: Gisbod on August 21, 2013, 09:27:38 PM
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Sorry for all the questions lately, I'm just keen to improve!
I always seem to struggle gluing the brass machine gun pieces together. I've tried CA, Gator glue and epoxy but none really seem to work that well - particularly the end piece and crosshairs sight (which always breaks off!).
I know they recommend soldering, but I just can't see how you could solder such small pieces without making a pigs ear of it :o
Any thoughts, suggestions..
Thanks again,
Guy
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CA is plenty strong if the parts are clean and the fit tight. However you must not jiggle the parts while the CA is initially curing or else the bond will be compromised. For very tiny parts that i can't jig up I often use a dot of epoxy or a puddle of future to position the parts; once that is dry I hit the seam with CA.
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Ok Bo,
Thanks. Very helpful again. I may have to set up a 'bat phone' by my modelling bench (directly to you) for future use.. ;D
Guy
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Good advice from Bo.
Check what viscosity CA you are using, that will have an impact also, the difference in setting times can vary dramatically from something like under 5 secs to 20 secs.
Gator glue would simply not be the right choice for the task in this situation. It takes to long to set in this case but is darn fine stuff for other situations.
Martin.
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Firstly, never feel bad about asking. It saves me having to for one thing. :-)
For things like the end of the jacket I tend to use a Gel Superglue to just touch the edge of the brass to it, then once it is set I run thin Superglue around the seam to give a nice strong bond.
I use Gel because it has a longer drying time to fiddle the part into place *allegedly* It also gives time to clear the excess away before it sets too. Small brass parts that won't be moved or treat roughly and especially bezels I fix with Klear over the decal for the instrument then puddle more in to the lens area. Secures both the rim and creates a glass lens at once.
I mostly use Gel Superglue, just because it gives you fiddle time.
Keith
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Thanks Keith,
I'll get some gel - I haven't tried that yet..
What do people use to apply thin CA? I can't seem to do it without it running everywhere, so I've basically given up using it..
Guy
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You can now buy purpose made CA applicators however Ive always had success with a plain simple cocktail stick.
Martin
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Thanks Martin,
I have tried a cocktail stick but it just seems to absorb the glue (when using thin - the thick's ok)
I guess a metal needle may work?
Guy
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Ps don't the applicators just get gummed up?
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Thanks Keith,
I'll get some gel - I haven't tried that yet..
What do people use to apply thin CA? I can't seem to do it without it running everywhere, so I've basically given up using it..
Guy
This has been covered at length in another topic... but, I use a modified sewing needle -- cut the eye in half to form a tiny fork. Stick the pointy end in a wine cork, one with a nice flat end so that stands up when not in use. Dip the needle fork in runny CA and apply away. To keep the thing clean, I keep a small jar of acetone. The cork seals the jar, the acetone cleans the needle.
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Ok - I'll definitely give that a go..
Guy
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Forgive me and delete if this is not allowed but I have added some links for applicators below, not sure what the protocol is so as as I say please remove if its not allowed.
RB Productions do one...link bellow
http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_122&products_id=439 (http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_122&products_id=439)
I believe Uschi has just started stocking one also...link below
http://www.uschivdr.com/products/new-uvdr-4-ca-glue-applicator/ (http://www.uschivdr.com/products/new-uvdr-4-ca-glue-applicator/)
There are others available online also.
Martin.
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Guy, my favorite CA applicator of all time is a bamboo skewer split in half so one side is flat. I sharpened the tip with sand paper, dipped it in CA, let it dry, then sharpened it again. Once the CA was absorbed, it will stopped soaking up more. I've used this same stick for a couple years now and it has worked perfectly every time. Over time, the CA will continue to build up and will need regular sharpening. As long as the tip is sharp, you can apply even the tiniest drop of CA.
Cheers,
Bud
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I'm lazy I use the end of my scalpel blade. :o
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Thanks,
All very good advice..
Perhaps my models won't have so many lumps of superglue stuck to them in future :P it's good to get the basics right!
Guy
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I use Future to attach small, non load bearing PE parts.
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i agree with the future thing. use for anything like a hatch cover, control line grommet, or pe bezel, basically visual details that dont hold any weight .of course there are times when ca is necessary . i have a unique way, i save my empty tamiya extra thin cement bottles. when they are empty i rinse em with alcohol and leave open to dry. then i fill it bout half way with bob smith thin(blue bottle) you can then screw on the brush applicator top on and as long as it remains submerged the brush stays soft . it isnt the most precision applicator. for that i use a scrap piece of wire or whatnot. but for most things the tamiya brush works fine. i like the thin because if you over apply it a touch you can wick it up with a paper napkin which usually leaves behind a perfect amount. i almost always use kicker. and keep a bottle of pure acetone from the drugstore as debonder. that acetone works great to get it off fingers remove an accidental drip and to clean the brush occasionally. eventually the glue thickens i just dump out then old and refill with new. eventually the bottle will get crusty so i toss it and use another new bottle.you have to be careful to try not to get glue on the bottle rim or else it could get stuck on, dont knock it over or else you wont get the cap off either. all in all its what works for you. this is what i like.
for spandaus i have these resin flare supp tips which i drill and put a wire to sim the barrel. this is ca glued into a hole drilled in the plastic machine gun receiver. i then form my cooling jacket into a cylinder. i put it in place with the seam down and line it up with the wire barrel. run a bead of ca with my tamiya brush then i squeeze it closed and hold it in possition for a few secs.hit it with kicker. usually theres a tad on the bottom of the jacket. a couple swipes with a sanding stick and you are good. next i secure the gun on a strait pin as a stand. spray can tamiya black. this also paints the insides of the jacket if you do it right. when dry i use dry brushing with aluminum enamel paint to highlight raised details.to me they look great like this.