forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: lone modeller on August 20, 2013, 06:02:39 AM
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Evening All,
I am in a bit of a quandry as I have not posted any builds on this site before and am therefore not sure whether this is the right place for this one which is a conversion, not a scratch build. I intend to use several parts from an existing kit but will be making some of my own and the finished model will bear no resemblance to the original kit (I hope). I am therefore hoping that this is the correct place for this thread. I have posted pictures of previous pusher conversions on this site and although I am posting a thread on this build on another website, I thought that you ladies and gentlemen might also be interested in this rather rarified region of modelling. This model will be in God's Own Scale as nobody seems to want to make one as an injection kit in this size, although I am very aware that an excellent kit is available from WNW - but I lack both the finances and the space for one of that size. Anyway I think that building your own is more fun and a greater challenge. The one tool that is indispensable to me but which I never mention is my eye loupe - without it I simply could not continue modelling. Anyway here goes.
I am sure that I do not need to say too much about the FE 2b - it was a design from the Royal Aircraft Factory, Farnborough which first flew in early 1915 and was a response to a War Office requirement for a gun carrier and general purpose machine. It was powered by a 120 hp Beardmore engine (a copy of a German Merceedes) and adopted a pusher layout because there were no interruptor gears available at the time. Delays in getting machines into production meant that RFC squadrons did not receive any machines until late 1915 and not until 1916 did the type come into service in any numbers. Initially pilots flew it defensively but soon learned that it was superior to the Fokker and Pfalz monoplanes which were causing the "Fokker Scourge" and when they took the fight to the opposition they rapidly gained and held air superiority. However with the introduction of the Albatross and Halberstadt tractor biplanes in the autumn of 1916 these pusher machines became outclassed although they had to continue in front line service until the spring of 1917 because there were no suitable replacements. They continued to be employed until November 1918 as night bombers. I intend to model an early FE with the oleo undercarriage and nosewheel as this epitomises this particular aircraft for me.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4108/35610134631_84d1fa1aec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WfKfot)
I will use the Airfix DH 4 as a source for some parts: wings, Lewis guns, wheels, propellor and struts, to which I will add plastic card, florists wire and copper wire.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4003/35353434040_5a24da4e5a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VS4Afd)
I started with the fuselage nacelle which I moulded from 30thou plastic card, cut out and sanded. I have painted the sides of the interior and now have to get on with the cockpit detail for both the pilot and observer.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/35700868346_44ae47a8ec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoLhmS)
Thanks for looking.
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LM,
I'm pretty certain I'll get a lot of agreement and support in saying, "You bet were interested!" Great idea, and a very nice start with the fuselage nacelle. This is modelling at it's finest, and I look forward to following your project. Lots to be learned in doing so as well.
Cheers,
Lance 8)
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I am very much looking forward to seeing what you do with this scratch/conversion build, it looks to be a very interesting project. What you have done so far with the nacelle is amazing, and what makes it even more amazing is the fact that it is in 1:72 scale, I am looking forward to seeing more update on this build.
Des.
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LM, I am always stunned by what can be done in the itsy-bitsy scale!
The fuselage you have done is amazing...beautiful work. I look forward
to seeing more of the build. Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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LM, we're in for a treat here! My clumsy old fingers would never know how to cope.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Courageous design, I'll be watching. :)
Adam.
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Interesting project LM, the nacelle looks great. I'm looking forward to seeing how it progresses!
Ian
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Nice one LM.
It takes lot lots of gut and skill to do that in 1/72 scale... and you already shown both around here.
Very nice start from you with that fuselage... i'll be watching your post for sure!
Cheers
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Well, well, well. It is going to be a modelling feast. Fee in my favourite scale!!!
My first question, maybe I am not clever enough, but how have you moulded these lovely looking nacelle halves?
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This is indeed going to be one to watch unfold.
One tiny nit -- in your intro you mentioned the Beardmore 120hp being a copy of the German Mercedes -- actually I believe it was a license built copy of the Austrian Austro-Daimler 6 (as designed by one Ferdinand Porsche). Austro-Daimler and Daimler of Germany/Mercedes-Benz were completely separate concerns. The later Mercedes 6 cylinder inlines (D.II, D.III, Bz.IV) and others were "inspired" by the Austro-Daimler motor, but were not direct copies...
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Nice, crisp molding of the nacelle, LM. I'm looking forward to watching this project progress.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hat tip from me too, will be watching with interest; a 72 scale FE2b is high up my personal list of missing kits but I'd be leery of trying to scratch one ;)
Nice nacelle!
Mark
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Outstanding start! The tub is perfect!! I am looking forward to your progress on this one!
RAGIII
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Well, well, well. It is going to be a modelling feast. Fee in my favourite scale!!!
My first question, maybe I am not clever enough, but how have you moulded these lovely looking nacelle halves?
You do not need to be clever to mould new parts in plastic, and you do not need to go to the expense of a vacuform machine either. The method that I used is variously called push/plunge/crash moulding and there is a good description of the method here:
http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/Making_push_or_plunge_moulds_about37829.html
All of the nacelles on my pushers were made in this way because of the curvature of the parts. This method can also be used to make other parts with curved shapes. Be prepared for some wastage as the method sometimes yields pieces which are not quite what you want: I had to mould two port sides for this FE before I could get what I wanted.
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One tiny nit -- in your intro you mentioned the Beardmore 120hp being a copy of the German Mercedes -- actually I believe it was a license built copy of the Austrian Austro-Daimler 6 (as designed by one Ferdinand Porsche). Austro-Daimler and Daimler of Germany/Mercedes-Benz were completely separate concerns. The later Mercedes 6 cylinder inlines (D.II, D.III, Bz.IV) and others were "inspired" by the Austro-Daimler motor, but were not direct copies...
Thank you Bo for correcting my error: I should have checked my facts before writing (I do have notes but did not look at them beforehand), you are right. I also should have written that one of the main reasons for the delay in getting the aircraft into production and to the squadrons was because of problems building the engines.
Next time I will check my notes carefully before writing.
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Thank you all for the interest and encouraging remarks: I hope that I will not disappoint with the completed model. I will post more when I have completed something worth showing.
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Well, well, well. It is going to be a modelling feast. Fee in my favourite scale!!!
My first question, maybe I am not clever enough, but how have you moulded these lovely looking nacelle halves?
You do not need to be clever to mould new parts in plastic, and you do not need to go to the expense of a vacuform machine either. The method that I used is variously called push/plunge/crash moulding and there is a good description of the method here:
http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/Making_push_or_plunge_moulds_about37829.html
All of the nacelles on my pushers were made in this way because of the curvature of the parts. This method can also be used to make other parts with curved shapes. Be prepared for some wastage as the method sometimes yields pieces which are not quite what you want: I had to mould two port sides for this FE before I could get what I wanted.
Many thanks, lone modeller, for the explanation. I know the method, theoretically. But I just could not believe, one might get such fantastic elements this way. :o Your Fee nacelle is a masterpiece!
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First rate start, Sir!
Looking forward to watching this one come together.
Wonderful project.
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nice one , ive seen several builds of this type on britmodeller.com where they take a doner kit in 1/72 and make it into a totally different plane. to me this qualifies as scratch built as ,like you say, there will be no likeness to the original you are basically only using the flying surfaces(heavily modified) and a few other bits. great project, looks like fun stuff.
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Nice start, LM! I built one from scratch and it is a great little machine. I'm so glad others like it too! Watching with popcorn in hand...Dan
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Evening All,
I saw your build thread Dan and was very impressed especially as your model was a complete scratch build, unlike this one where I am going to use some kit parts.
I have managed to make some progress with the nacelle but have been having problems with the camera so the interior shots that I took before closing the nacelle halves were out of focus when I wanted to use them. I will not comment further as the editor will not like the language!
I have added interior details to both cockpits including the rudder bar covers/Lewis drum magazine storage in the observer's cockpit, and control column, rudder bar, instrument panel, seat, compass, etc in the pilot's cockpit. I found some really good photos of the interior of WNW models on the Britmodeller site which were most helpful as the Datafile is a bit thin in this area. I used the radiator from an Airfix DH 4 which I sanded and filed to shape so that it fits in the front of the engine compartment. There is a gap at the bottom but this will not show when the engine is installed later. A little judicious use of filler was necessary in one or two places to conceal the joins of the bulkheads and radiator but when it is all cleaned up I am sure it will not show - getting an exact fit of very small parts is one of the problems of working in this scale. I used thin rod and stretched sprue to represent the interior bracing and ribbing of the nacelle and card for the floors. I have drilled a small hole just behind the pilot's cockpit and one on the port side below the engine compartment for the radiator and petrol filler caps which will be made from stretched sprue and glued on later. I will also add four small discs of card to the rear fuselage to represent access ports, and drill two small holes for a step for the pilot on the port side later. I have made two air intakes from 10 thou card bent to a curve, with small triangular pieces for the top and bottom, but these were not quite ready when I took the photographs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4041/35700869146_4e99c19677_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoLhAE)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4263/35700869966_2e2be01b10_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoLhQN)
I have also been working on the engine and hope to be able to put up some pictures of this shortly.
Thanks for looking.
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Man...that nacelle shot looks SOOOOO familiar! ;)
Well done, LM. Can't wait to see your engine as well...Dan
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Evening All,
I have been working on the engine and have now almost finished it except for the final touches which will have to wait until it is installed in the nacelle.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/35742451491_f4c0d90554_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsrpzD)
This is a view of the port side of my amateurish effort.
Before starting I looked closely at photos of models of the Beardmore engine from the Wingnut Wings kit which have been posted on other sites which provided lots of good detailed views. I also used photos of a real engine on a replica FE 2b in New Zealand shown in the Windsock DataFile no 147. In this scale it is often only possible to represent the larger details, smaller ones have to be suggested. The cylinders were made from small oblongs of two pieces of 60thou laminated card, which had the corners rounded off. The sump was made from two strips of 60 thou and one of 30 thou card, and was similarly shaped with a file and glass paper. I glued the cylinders to the sump and added the pipes on the sides of the cylinders before painting this sub-assembly. I then put on the push rod covers, vents for the sump and finally the fuel pipes and carburettors, all from rod and card. On the other side is the exhaust pipe which I made from a cocktail stick and small pieces of 10 thou card for the pipe and vents, and thin rod for the entry pipes. The rocker arms on the top were pieces of 15 thou card shaped and glued into place, and the magneto cover at the rear was a piece of shaped laminated card. I drilled a hole at the end of the sump for the propellor and finally make a tank for the port side from sprue: this will not be attached to the engine but sit alongside it on the starboard side of the engine bay. This little assembly was no push-over but I am relieved to know that not too many people will be able to take a close look at it because it will be partly hidden by the wings and nacelle. This was an interesting challenge as I have not attempted a scratch build of an entire engine before.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35704786372_6d30f6ed7a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wp7n43)
Another view of the port side showing the pipes, carburettors and other details.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35742447161_76c64bd166_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsrohZ)
This is the starboard side with the tank in front. On the model the tank will be mounted below the exhaust pipe but above the side of the nacelle and held in place by two straps which will be made from thin rod.
The engine has been trial fitted in the nacelle and fits well but I will not glue it into place until I have fitted the lower wings to the nacelle and painted it all as this will require handling, and I do not want to damage it. When I do fit the engine I will use card pieces to ensure that it sits properly in the correct position - these have been cut and are now ready to fit.
The next stage is to tackle the wings and make the tail surfaces.
Thanks for looking.
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Hi LM.
Your engine looks great with all that detail in such a small scale... or maybe my eyes are fooling me and that's giant coin. :P
Cheers
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Incredible engine detailing, LM! This is a masterpiece in the making.
Cheers,
Bud
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Awesome work on the engine, your attention to detail in this small scale is amazing, well done.
Des.
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It's looking really good Lone Modeller. You must have amazing eyes and manual dexterity to be able to embark on this. I can't wait to see the finished thing.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Thank you all for your kind comments - however unlike Des's Spinne engine you could not inject fuel and strike a spark and it would start to rev!
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You must have amazing eyes and manual dexterity to be able to embark on this.
Thank you for your kind remarks Nigel. I stated in my first post on this topic that I use an eye loupe - a magnifying glass which clips on to the arm of my spectacles. It gives me 5x magnification and makes the fine work possible - I strongly recommend it to anyone who wears spectacles. I bought mine from a DIY shop in Bath but they can easily be found on the internet - two lenses cost around £10. As for the manual dexterity I frequently have to make several attempts to get things right - just like everyone else I suspect.
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Evening All,
I was about to start work on the wings when I came across an odd pair of wings in a spares box. I had known that these were in the box but had not looked at them closely before. When I did I saw that they were from a Veeday BE2c: I had used the fuselage many years ago to convert an RE 8 into a BE 2e and the 2c wings had been left over. The FE 2 outer wing panels were similar to the BE 2c so I was able to use these so I have saved the DH 4 kits for another project.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4022/34931840973_b0970a4071_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VdNPje)
I cut new centre section panels from plastic card which I shaped to aerofoil section, after I had thinned the Veeday parts which are seriously over-thick. In order to strengthen the wing joints I used small pieces of fuse wire which I glued into holes that I had drilled into the ends of the wing panels with superglue. When the joints were dry I used filler to clean up the joints. I also had to use card fillets to fill the small recesses on the lower wings and these too were cleaned up with filler.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4284/35700871206_ce9e59873f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoLidb)
I placed the nacelle on a plan of the FE and took one of the bottom wings to test how it fitted to the nacelle. I then laid the nacelle on the wing and marked where the wing needed to be cut and shaped the joint so that the wing fitted well against the nacelle side. This operation was repeated with the other wing. I made sure that the leading edges of the wings were at 90 degrees to the centre line of the nacelle and that when both wings were in place they sat properly over the plan. One wing was glued to the nacelle and supported while it dried so that the correct anhedral was achieved. The process was repeated for the other wing, and both were filled and rubbed down.
I marked on the top of the lower wings and nacelle the location holes for the struts and drilled small holes. I also drilled holes on the underside of the wings for the wing skids at the same time. On the nacelle I cut two small recesses for the struts behind the pilot's cockpit. I used the lower wing and nacelle holes as a guide mark on the strut location holes on the underside of the upper wing and drilled those next. A new gravity tank was made from two pieces of 60 thou card glued together and shaped and glued to the lower side of the upper wing. All gaps were filled and rubbed down.
Next time I will describe how I fit the booms to the wings.
Thanks for looking.
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That's interesting, thanks for sharing the process.
LT
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Nice work with the wings, isn't it great to have a spares box, it's amazing what we can find especially for scratch builders :)
Des.
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Evening All,
Fitting the booms on a pusher can cause headaches, and as no two designs seem to have been similar and I have a penchant for pushers, I have had to devise a method which will work on all of them. I know that there are arguments in favour making the booms as units which are then fixed to the wings after the latter have been put into place but I prefer to put them on directly to the wings before I paint the model and then complete the assembly afterwards. I have made three other pushers and found that the method I describe here gives an accurate angle in both plan and profile. It is not difficult and does not require expensive or complicated jigs: it may look crude but it is simple and it works well for me at least.
I started by marking carefully the points where the booms will be attached to the wing. In the case of the FE 2b the booms were attached to the top surfaces of both wings and both of the booms form a V so they are easier to fix than on the Vickers Gunbuses for example. The booms also had a small horizontal strut near the rear which helps to strengthen this assembly. I used the DF plan to mark the location and angle of the boom: I laid the wires which form the booms on the plan and the top of the trailing edge of the wing. I measured the length of the wire that had to extend on to the wing: this determined the length of the groove that needed to be cut. I made the groove by rotating a round file on the edge of the wing - I did this slowly and used pressure at the pointed end of the file to dig slightly more deeply so that the groove is deepest at its forward edge and very shallow at the trailing edge. I filed the leading edges of the booms so that the ends of the wires had a flatter surface which would fit into the grooves in the wings, and then filed the rear ends so that they form a pair of flat surfaces which give a sharp point at the end and a surface to bond. Getting the angles of the booms correct in profile is the most difficult part but I did this as this diagram and text describe.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/35700852196_a98e36d927_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoLcyq)
Measure the horizontal distance (a) between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the horizontal tail unit from the plan. Measure the vertical distance between a line drawn horizontally from the bottom surface of the trailing edge of the lower wing to where the boom crosses the leading edge of the horizontal tail surface (b), also from the plan. I placed the lower wings and nacelle on the plan so that the angle of the booms would be correct in plan, and the booms were glued to the wing. While the booms were setting I place a support made from plastic card exactly height (b) at the distance (a) from the tailing edge of the wing and let the booms rest on this while they dried out. I repeated this operation for the upper wing and booms, but had to be careful because the height (b) was slightly different. This sounds more complicated than it is in practice but when the wings are finally assembled the booms will be in their correct positions. (Well they were on the other pushers that I have made!)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/35741291025_92dff29ece_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsksBB)
This image shows the lower wing and booms on the DF plan which was used to get the correct alignment for the booms and location for the struts. It also shows the modified BE 2c wings and the plastic card inner panels attached to the nacelle. The lucky find of the BE 2c wings did not save a great deal of time as they had to be thinned, but it does mean that I have an intact DH 4 for another conversion. Thank goodness for spares boxes!
The next stage will be to paint the wings, nacelle, tail unit and add the markings before any further assembly, as the parts are easily accessible in this state.
Thanks for looking.
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Outstanding craftsmanship, LM. Your technique for the booms looks effective.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hi lonemodeller.
Great explantion there. Not rude at all, sometimes you must go the simpler way to achieve the most difficult ones.
Thank you for sharing your technique with us. It will be quite handy for sure.
Cheers
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Thanks for the tip! I have a few pushers awaiting attention and this will be very useful.
Ian
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Very nicely done LM, your description for the fitment of the booms will come in very handy for a lot of modelers.
Des.
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Thanks for sharing this with us lone modeller. It's very helpful and helps to break down the barriers to building pushers.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, LM. Although I would love to
build one of the pushers, I am intimidated by the boom setup. Your
instruction has done much to allay my fears. I appreciate that and have
to say I'm enjoying your build. I look forward to more updates of your fine work.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Evening All,
Many thanks indeed for the complimentary remarks - they are really appreciated. When I started on my first pusher conversions, (the FB 5 and FB 9 which have appeared in completed models), I really did not think that they would be very difficult after I had converted a DH 4 to a BE 2a. It was the booms that caused me headaches at the time but I thought of the method I have described simply because it allows more leeway for the small errors that inevitably creep in to any project like a pusher. The method allows the modeller to "adjust" the wings and tail a little without it showing (unless you take accurate and careful measurements). As I build models to "look right" rather than 100% accuracy (which I do not have the skill to achieve and which is very difficult in God's Own Scale anyway), my method yields results that I can live with (just). I really hope that these notes will encourage others to give a pusher a go if only because they are so different from the more commonly presented later WW1 aircraft. They are actually not as difficult as they look - it seems that overcoming fear of them is the key - at least it was in my case. It is my intention to build a representative model of all of the British designed pusher types that saw active service with the RFC/RNAS so I will post some more articles when I get to make the other two types which I have still to tackle. But for now progress on the FE 2b.
I have completed the painting of the wings, tail surfaces and nacelle and put on the markings as this will not be easy later. I have gone for the greener end of the PC 10 spectrum and used a mixture of Humbrol white and clear doped linen for the undersurfaces. The cockades and rudder stripes were hand-painted: the roundels on the wings could have been taken from the DH 4 but those on the nacelle would be a problem and would have to come from another source - as it was the circles were not easy to scribe. The letter and number on the top wing were also hand painted as I could not find a suitable source, but the serial was from Letraset dry rub-down transfers. The nose markings were also dry rub-down touched in with white paint where the curvature caused small gaps. The tail surfaces are not fixed to the boom yet, they were placed there for the photograph: they will be permanently fitted later.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35741295445_767e3f993d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsktVP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4143/34931834593_3b4164a411_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VdNMqe)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4263/35741293315_c5f35dfbea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wskti6)
The next step will be to fix the top wing and rudder into place, so struts will now have to be cut and shaped from card as I will not be able to use those from the DH 4 as originally planned. If anyone is following this thread but using a pair of DH 4's you can use the wing struts by just removing the joining bar on the top. You will have to cut boom struts from card, Evergreen or other source however.
Thanks for looking.
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Very nicely painted, the green looks really good and your CDL is good also. The decals have been applied well and the hand painted markings are really well done, she is looking very smart and will be a very impressive model when completed.
Des.
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Lone Modeler,
Very Impressive works my friend. I'm in absolute awe of you guys who work such magic in so tiny a scale.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hi LM.
It's looking good and to hand paint those cocardes isn't easy at all. Awosome paint job especially that B and 1 hand painting, those colors look quite on the spot to me.
Cheers
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Great modelling! It is a build log which may finally tempt me to try my hand in scratch-building a 72nd scale Fee.
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Your paint work is great, LM. I am absolutely stunned by the roundels...
I could have sworn they were decals! I can't get over what you are doing
in the teeny scale. Super work!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Evening All,
Many thanks again for the complimentary remarks - I really appreciate what has been written. It is a relatively new experience for me to show others what I am doing and I have to admit that your supportive comments have helped me to overcome some real fears that my work would not be of a standard that would be respected by such good modellers as comment and present on this site.
Great modelling! It is a build log which may finally tempt me to try my hand in scratch-building a 72nd scale Fee.
Prez I do hope that you give in to your temptation as I am sure that you would produce a stunner of a model.
Ernie - I promise that I will describe my method of painting roundels in more detail in another thread - it is easier than you might think, but you will need an eye loupe or magnifier.
Here is the latest progress report on the Fee - I have put on the top wing, struts and rudder, and undercarriage as the photos show. However as so often happens in life things do not always go according to plan…..
I had made what I thought was a good start: I fixed the four outer wing struts to the lower wing and the lower part of the rudder to the V in the lower boom. All was aligned but not set when I gently lowered the upper wing and boom on to the struts and rudder assembly. This went well as the booms were at the correct angles, so I left the whole to dry out thoroughly overnight.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4005/35741299705_25c7cff190_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wskvcg)
So far, so good. The unconventional jig system is typical of my method - I work on my desk and use whatever is available to me and generally it works well. The following day I started to measure carefully the wing struts prior to cementing these into place when…. the upper booms separated from the top wing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4107/35610158051_b8295c45be_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WfKnmg)
The language that followed will not be repeated here because the moderator would not like it, but it went along the lines **££@@¢¢%££ etc. Fortunately as the photo shows, the top wing and rudder stayed in place so I was able to carry out a rapid emergency repair and re-attached the booms to the top wing and rudder. I think that the problem was caused by not having cleaned thoroughly the ends of the boom wires so that the epoxy glue did not hold well enough. In any event the ends of the wires were vigorously rubbed with glass paper before I stuck them back and now the joint is much stronger. Everything was properly aligned from all directions after the booms were re-attached so I was able to proceed with the remaining wing struts, cabane struts and boom struts. The struts were from a DH 4 (found in the spares box) or cut from card and shaped to aerofoil section, those on the booms being held with superglue. Once the struts were in place the whole model became quite strong as can be handled almost like any other. I have found this to be the case with the other pushers that I have made - once the struts are in place they are much stronger than they may look. I also advise only attaching the outer wing struts when putting the top wing into place - the rudder provides a third point of attachment and having so few struts to worry about while getting the alignments true makes life a great deal simpler. If the structure is allowed to dry thoroughly (overnight) the remaining wing and fuselage struts can be glued into place relatively easily as the model will be strong enough to allow some gentle handling without threatening to fall apart (unless the epoxy joint fails!!) Even then the wings stayed in place and the rudder provided the necessary support to recover an awkward situation. The boom strut locations were marked directly from the plan before attachment, cut to the exact length and glued in place: much simpler in my view that constructing boom sub-assemblies beforehand and then trying to make them fit to the wings and rudder. I spent a great deal of time thinking about this method before I attempted my first pusher conversion/scratch-build, and this is my fourth attempt. This method has worked well for me and I intend to go on using it with future projects.
The undercarriage was next. I wanted to build an early model of the Fee with the oleo undercarriage and nose wheel which was so characteristic of many of the Royal Aircraft Factory designs of this period. I had already cut small notches for the struts in the nacelle so I cut the undercarriage legs from card and shaped them to aerofoil section. Assembly then followed this sequence:
I cut small tabs on the ends of the legs to fit the notches;
I glued the main undercarriage legs to the nacelle and fixed the axle which was made from wire for strength;
I glued the forward legs to the nacelle;
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4287/35700822226_108e74d581_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoL3DG)
I then added the streamlined fairing to the front legs - this had been carved from card;
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4084/35610158721_53a021c23c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WfKnxP)
This sub-assembly was allowed to dry for a short time to give it some rigidity but still allow a little flexibility if needed. I glued the auxiliary legs to form a V between the main legs, and then the arms to the axle;
I put in the three rods between the fairing and rear legs: the middle one in first followed by the two on the sides;
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/35700821426_3a712a6a49_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WoL3pU)
The whole unit was allowed to dry out thoroughly.
The nose wheel will be made from a disc of 20 thou card and the yoke from a piece of 10 thou card with a slot cut into it, and the main wheels will be taken from a DH 4 or other suitable source in the spares box.
The next stage will be to add a generator under the cockpits, a step for the pilot and observer, tail skid, control horns and paint the undercarriage before starting the rigging.
Thanks for looking.
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You have accomlished some brilliant work here LM, your recovery from the stray tail boom was well done and the work you are doing on the undercarriage is excellent. Biplanes are pretty flimsy before the rigging is fixed but then everything becomes a solid unit. Looking forward to seeing your next update.
Des.
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Very nice update from you LM.
Thank you again for the explanation in how to get those tail booms correctly done. Great job in getting them again in place and in the undercarriage it's very nicely achieved.
The Fee it's taking it's shape... and it looks fine from where i'm standing!
Cheers
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You really should be commended, LM! Despite bouts of adversity, you have
prevailed with an amazing model. It's coming together beautifully! I am looking
forward to the next updates.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Evening All,
I painted the undercarriage and added the details such as generator, cockpit step, control horns and tail skid.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4095/35353435230_8a2029cfbe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VS4AAJ)
I started to rig the tail section of the booms first because the horizontal tail unit has to rest on the upper booms and partially conceals the rigging wires.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4286/35353437060_545bfc9d14_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VS4B9h)
When this rigging was complete I glued the horizontal tail surface into place with an adjustor bar at the rear. The remainder of the model was then rigged with copper wire. I know that this is too thick for scale thickness but I have not developed a technique yet to use human hair or something thinner.
Finally the wheels, gun pillars and guns, and propellor were glued into place and the model was complete.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4287/35486687100_a4f1b20207_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W4QxJL)
Thank you to all who have made such positive comments during this build. As one of rather modest ability I greatly appreciate the encouraging remarks that so many of you have made. This is a model that I have wanted to build since my teenage years, (I will not say exactly how many years that is), so it has been rather a long time in the making.
I have posted more pictures in the completed models section.
Thanks for looking.
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It was worth the wait! Congratulations, LM, she's one to be proud of.
Lindsay
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So impressed!
The FE2b always deserved proper kitting, and WNW has done that now in 1/32; but I agree with you about hankering after it in my teenage years in 1/72.
I guess no major manufacturer is going to put one out now.
'Fraid I simply don't have the skills etc. you've put into this little masterpiece! :)
Mark
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Geez LM, I thought the 1/32 version was too small! I don't know how you
managed to pull it off, but you did...brilliantly! Well done!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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LM,
I just went back through this Thread, what an excellent example of improvisation and talent! I find it hard to believe the results you've achieved in this tiny scale, patience beyond mine for certain! You've produced a "one of a kind" in the scale you prefer, which is what Scratch Building is all about (I think). Very nicely done!
Cheers, 8)
Lance
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Thanks everyone for the kind comments and support during the build. WNW this is not: but as I have said I have wanted one of these since my teenage years and now I have one at last. It will be one of my collection of RFC pushers which I am gradually building - all of the British designed machines that saw active service or were used as trainers. Only two to go now and all except the DH 2 have to be converted from other kits. It is an interesting little project that is testing my patience and skill - especially the latter.