forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: Andrew H on July 14, 2013, 08:16:48 PM
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Hello everybody - new member here asking a very silly question probably! I have numerous different sprue cutters in my collection. When recently trying to cut off a seat support for the WNW D.Va I managed to snap it by imparting a slight twist. Most of the ones I have I think will do this - any suggestions/ideas?
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I use a pair of these http://www.fiskars.co.uk/Crafting-Sewing/Products/Scissors/Classic-Scissors/9807-Classic-Precision-Straight-Scissors-10cm
They are great and will cut through reasnaobly thick plastic. The fine blades enable you to get close in and using the tip you have quite a lot of control over where you cut. Not managed to snap a plastic part using them yet.
If the sprue is really thick I just use a pair of instrument sidecutters and cut well away from the part then use a craft knife to fettle.
Hope this helps
P
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G'day, Andrew.
For some of the finer parts I won't use a sprue cutter at all, even though I have a couple of top-shelf ones. Instead I either use a fresh blade and lightly score the sprue until the part drops away or, more usually, I'll use these razor saws I got from RB:
http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_112&products_id=358&zenid=decac92a8dd331c1bf0bad2e07a9ea9a
They give as clean a cut as the cutter, but I can control the cut better.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Thanks for your help guys - will give these ideas a try. ;D
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For delicate parts that may break, I sometimes heat an old x-acto blade over a candle and melt through the attachment point.
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Personally, I'm old school and just use a sharp, single edge razor blade .
I got this habit many decades ago (before there was such a thing as a sprue cutter) and you know what they say about old dogs. :)
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I'm like you Joe, old school. All I use is the trusty old scalpel, the different blades for different applications, No.11, No.15 and No.22, a very useful tool and extremely sharp.
Des.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W9ZKP4_f0yE/UeS6L-2Xe8I/AAAAAAAAIK8/uunyTE8QKFI/s800/scalpels%2520x%25203.jpg)
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Des,
I'm not sure if this has been answered elsewhere (or even if I've asked before :o ::)) but what would you typically use each No. blade in the picture for? Specific use, etc, etc.
Thanks in advance.
Andrew
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I also use a scalpel at times when more finesse and sharpness than an X-acto is required. I find a #11 blade quite useful.
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Hi Andrew,
The top blade in the picture is No.22, I use this blade primarily for cutting the micro brass tube.
The centre blade is the No.15, this is the blade I use most often, good for cutting parts from the sprue and also for trimming any parts, they are a strong blade.
The bottom blade is the No.11, I use this one for scrapping, it is also used for getting into tight spots that need trimming.
The most important feature of all is that all the blades are extremely sharp.
Des.
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Xuron side-cutters do it for me ;)
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i use different cutters for different things. for wings and such i use side cutters far away from the attach point and then shave with an exacto w a #11. i noticed if i cut too close with a side cutter i ended up with a pit that needed filling. i have some type of cuticle clippers, they get into tight spots and trim fairly flush for medium sized parts. for tiny delicate stuff a brand new exacto #11 so it doesnt break. i have also heated an exacto blade and melted thru an attachment and trimmed later. i guess its all what worx best for each modeller.
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I mostly use a no 11, a few mm from the part. I also rest the sprue on a spare bit of wood so that there is minimal gap between where I cut and the block, to avoid bending and snapping particularly for thin components.
Beforehand I may also dissect the sprues into smaller sections, cutting the main frames with heavy duty scissors, well away from any components.
Long gone are the days of twisting off the parts!
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Xuron side-cutters for me too. I cut close to the sprue to avoid putting pressure on the part itself and when its completely free, I trim with a scalpel and finish up with a file.
Cheers,
Chris
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Xuron side-cutters for me too. I cut close to the sprue to avoid putting pressure on the part itself and when its completely free, I trim with a scalpel and finish up with a file.
Cheers,
Chris
100% the mirror image of my Xuron sprue tickling method :D
VB
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I've always used the Xuron or similar and/or a #11 blade however I now use a very fine razor saw; broke too many really small parts in the past. I have several, RB's are really well suited.
Cheers,
Lance
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Andrew,
I should have included a recommendation for the best razor type saw I have, probably the most used tool (other then the #11 Blade) I have in fact. Look on line for www.umm-usa.com They have a Universal tool for Modellers, a double sided fine and medium blade on a wooden handle that has spare blades available. Magnificent tool for sprue work! I bought it on the recommendation of a Modeller on another site a few years ago, it's indispensable.
Cheers,
Lance
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All I asked was a simple question !! ;D No, seriously, what a great bunch you are on here. Wonderful replies and great suggestions. Thank you all very much.
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That's a great site Lcaroll :)
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That's a great site Lcaroll :)
It most certainly is, but hard on the budget! The saw I was referring to is the JLC 002 item and the spare blades; it's a very fine modelling tool. I could spend a whack of $ there if I had a weak moment or three...............
Cheers,
Lance ;)
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Yeah,, me too...:)
I may just order one the the jigs.
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Thanks for the link Lance, I've ordered the JLC 002 and should have it in a few more days, been looking for a supplier for these, now, to go through the rest of their website to see what other goodies they have ;D
Des.
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Thanks for the link Lance, I've ordered the JLC 002 and should have it in a few more days, been looking for a supplier for these, now, to go through the rest of their website to see what other goodies they have ;D
Des.
Careful Des, they have a variety that could vaporize the average Bank Account! ::)
Cheers,
Lance
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Well...... I could not resist........I put in an order to that site .
A couple of tools I really needed but, there were also a few things that i just had to have....... like a kid in a candy store. ;D
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Joe,
Did you order the Jig? If so I'll be interested in your comments once you've used it.
Cheers,
Lance
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Yes, the jig is one thing that ordered...... the one that supports 2 wings for bi planes.
It will really come in handy for the Morane Saulnier Type L which I have already started. :)
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UPDATE.....
I ordered on a Saturday and they were sent out that Monday with 2 day priority mail.....delivered today.
I will just say that i the jig is going to be a little assembly project in its self. It does seem well engineered though for its intended purpose though using quality die cut ply wood. and metal hardware.
I will post of pic of it once assembled if anyone wants it
BTW, one of the other other things that I ordered was one of the micro scissors and after testing it, I can say it's a must have IMO. :)
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My (late) 2 cents: I have a number of them, several by Xuron, but I've found the Xuron's not that well made. My go-to cutters are the really nice tweezer style cutters sold by umm-usa-
(http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/images/SPRUE%20CUTTER.jpg)
And Tamiya's cutters-
(http://www.modelcars.com/model-kit/tamiya-sharp-pointed-side-cutter.jpg)
(http://tokogundam.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/SHARP-POINTED2.jpg)
They seem to be made a little better than the Xuron cutters and there is no wobble from the rivet henge that Xuron uses.
My take is that saws and knife blades aren't really sprue cutters and although I use these methods sometime, I wouldn't call them that :)
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I use a fine blade saw...Better than any scissors ;).