forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Dal Gavan on May 15, 2013, 02:58:25 PM
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G'day.
I started this kit when my club, ACT Scale Modelling Society, had a build table set up at the Canberra show, last February. I'd be tinkering with it while working on my now-defunct WNW J.1. After that went Tango Uniform, I decided to work on the Nie.28 in preference to having an expensive bonfire!
So far this build's been everything the J.1 wasn't. The parts fit is not as good as the J.1 and the detail is nowhere near as good, either, but this kit hasn't been fighting me every step of the way. Currently the cockpit is assembled, minus the seat which is still drying. The fuselage has been put together and the lower wing and elevator assembly has been attached. Mush fitting, filling and sanding was involved,m but it's coming together. I've also finished off the basic engine, including replacing the single spark plugs with Taurus twins on the three cylinders that are visible through the cowl slots. I'm still tossing up whether to weather the engine (and airframe, once completed) or do the kit as pristine.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine04.jpg)
Here's where I was at after the day at the show. The fuselage halves joined and the engine assembled and base painted. The seat has been carved up, ready for my attempt to replicate the "Peach basket" style of construction.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine10a.jpg)
It didn't turn out too badly in the end. I used 1mm X 0.25mm Evergreen strip for the basket slats, once I'd sanded the chair down to about half its thickness. I've now painted the seat and I'm waiting for the oils to dry. The slats look a little bit too brown, so I may touch them up with a mix of Naples Yellow and Chrome Yellow, if they done lighten when they've dried.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine07a.jpg)
The Roden Vickers guns are pretty bland, with soft detail. I decided to use the spare Vickers from my WNW Tripe for this build. Apparently a lot of the USAAS Nie.28's only had one gun mounted, preferring better performance over extra firepower. If anyone knows whether Rickenbacker or Huffer used one gun rather than two on his N.28, please let me know, as it's one of those schemes that I want to do (I like the contrast of the white cowls with the cam'd airframe).
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine13.jpg)
Roden doesn't give you the nice, positive locating pins that WNW does. Once I'd got the cockpit pieces painted and the initial rigging done, I looked at a way to make the structure more robust. A few tips from Dave (Epeeman) and reading different reviews convinced me that pinning the structure was the way to go. So I drilled out the ends of the formers and glued in some 0.25mm wire. These would serve as pins for the 0.3mm holes I drilled in the floor frame and rear frame.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine26a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine27a.jpg)
These two shots show the cockpit assembled and awaiting touch-up painting. After tracking down some photo's of an Nie.28 being refurbished, I felt comfortable about how the cockpit was rigged. I added the last of my BvB eyelets and used invisible thread for the wire and MFH microtube (0.4mm OD, 0.2mm ID) to simulate turnbuckles/swaging clips. This time I used the Clear Brown rather than the (opaque) Cream. The brown seems to have slightly thinner walls and is more flexible, but grabs the thread very well, making it very easy to get the tension right. There's a few loose bits of thread that you can see. The rudder cables will pass through holes drilled into the sea, then get glued to the rear bulkhead. The front tension wires will get glued to the fuselage interior, once I fit the cockpit.
I also replaced the fuel bubble (what is the correct terminology?). A couple of attempts to paint the kit part, so it looked like a glass bowl, hadn't worked. So I stretched some clear sprue over a candle, until it was the thickness I wanted, and carved the moulded bubble off the kit. I sanded one end of the sprue, to round it off, and drilled a hole, which extended about 1/4 of the way into the clear sprue, at the other. I then used a very fine brush to smear a mix of clear yellow and clear red paint in the hole, before gluing the new bubble in place. While not perfect, it's a lot better than the silver or polished aluminium I'd been experimenting with. I'll use the same technique on my tripe- I've already carved the kit bubble off the instrument panel and put some clear sprue in the box.
Once I've finished sanding the joins on the fuselage assembly, it will be time to get some pain on the airframe and top wing. I'll do the painting before I add the cockpit, engine and cowl, as it will be easier to mask. Then it's drill holes for the rigging and the pins I'll add for the struts and undercarriage.
Cheers.
Dal.
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i think shes coming on quite well. i like what you did with the seat. this was one thing i wondered about how i would do it when i ever start my 28. i thought of making the slats on the flat table then forming them into the arc and trimming but this way is much smarter.good one my friend. i dont know if either pilots had one vickers( i understand not wanting to use the roden guns) i will have to inventory my wnw vickers and see if i can spareone for you mate.
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Hello Dal:
You are making good progress here. One issue I had with the kit was, I did the same thing you did, and when I put the interior in through the front, the wing hump hindered any further movement. Be careful when doing that and be aware of that hump.
I have a picture of Capt. Eddie in the cockpit of his 28 and there are two guns present in the photo. I can't speak to the to the other one. Who knows, he may have had one and went for two or had two and decided one would do. After all it is a model and it is your model.
I am going to tackle another one of these at some point, it is one of my favorites.
Best
Mark
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Dal,
Very impressive progress my old friend. I can really appreciate the work that went into your seat which is excellent by the way.As for one or two Vickers MG's .Rickenbacker's 28 was equipped with twin MG's as for Huff's kite I can find nothing. I believe that whether or not the 28's were equipped with a single or twin Vickers depends on the time it was in service. The earliest 28's in service were equipped with a single MG due to shortages of the guns. Later most would have carried the twin mountings in my opinion. I can't see how a single mount would have preferred as it meant less firepower on the target,but then again I wasn't there either.
Keep up the outstanding progress. I'm very much looking forward to following this project.The Nieuport 28 is one of my all time favorites.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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G'day, Gents.
Many thanks for your comments. It looks like two guns are the go. Now to decide- do I want "Captain Rick's" all white cowl and war bond posters or Major Huffer's red, blue and white cowl?
Scott, I was surprised at how easily the seat came together once I'd started using the strips. The hardest part is trying to get the colour of the slats right. As for the guns, I've got another spare I can use but wasn't able to find a good photo online, to know whether I needed one or two. I'll get it painted up and ready for the build.
Mark, that wing hump does get in the way, doesn't it? I noted that when I read a couple of reviews, so I've sanded it down a bit and also sanded down the read bulkhead, to make sure it fits into the fuselage properly. I test fitted it and, while it requires a little bit of jiggling, it slots in. Getting it out was a little more difficult and it nearly ended up staying there, but it will be easier to fit the seat with it out of the airframe.
Gregory, I'll go with two, to match the photo's. I knew about the shortage of guns and wasn't sure if that, and improved performance when only fitting one, meant that one gun was more likely.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Coming along beautifully, Dal. I like your approach to the seat construction. I'm glad this one's not giving you the grief the J.1 did.
Cheers,
Bud
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Got this one on the bench and having problems with the struts. Watching to see how you "pin" these small parts. Great to see you tackle this beautiful bird. Thanks for sharing your skills.
Life's Best,
Rick
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Great progress so far Dal, the seat is excellent, looking forward to seeing more of this beauty.
Des.
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Bud, that J.1 build was cursed, for some reason. I think that everything went wrong with that build that could once I got past painting the interior bits. The Nie.28 has been a great confidence restorer.
Rick, I'll be using some 0.25mm copper wire and a .3mm drill to do the holes in the struts. 0.3mm leaves enough room to easily get the wire fitted and held in place with some CA glue. I'll drill the struts and glue the wire in before I drill the wings- I'll use the end of the wire to scratch the paint and mark the hole for drilling. That size wire is strong enough to do the job and a 0.3mm drill is still fine enough to to do the job. I'll be using a new, sharp bit and taking it very slowly, however. I'll also sand a flat spot on the wing strut "pimples" to make it a bit easier. The technique really worked well for the cockpit module, so I'm hoping it will work here, too.
Des, if this one starts to fall off the table then I won't be trying to catch it. I'm going to build a workbench when we've finished Michelle's pantry and having a solid, stable work space again is going to make a big difference.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Great start!!
Steve
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Dal, Your work so far is very impressive! I love how your interior is looking. The seat is great! This one could be my next build, if that evil Snipe doesn't tempt me first, so I will be watching with even greater interest :P
RAGIII
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the interior bits look wonderful; this is such a pretty plane too
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Thanks for the kind words, gents.
Rags, last night I pulled the seat apart. I found some good photo's online that showed the slats were sandwiched by the seat frame. I'm not going to try that, but I will fit the slats outside the seat frame. The way the seat sits in the cockpit, it will look closer to the original if done that way. Besides, it gives me something to do until I can get up to the farm and spray the airframe.
Snipe or Nie.28? Got a coin, mate? :D
Bo, it is a good looking aircraft. The white cowlings and camouflage airframe should really stand out.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Hello Dal:
Love the work on the seat. The sad thing about this airplane is.........the cockpit opening is so small, all that work vanishes. However, the seat is the prominent piece that captures the attention of the onlooker. Your approach and end result is outstanding. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. I did it in Quentin Roosevelt's schemeabout 4 years ago or so: One of my early efforts and I like the story of Quentin. Are you using the Kit decals or an aftermarket variety? The SuperScale sheets have a lot of nice stenciling that the kit decals lack.
Best
Mark
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G'day, Mark.
I'll be using the kit decals and doing Rickenbacker's 'plane, mate. Mainly because I like the contrast between the five-colour cam' job and the white cowling and undercart.
I had a break of a week or so, while I was distracted by other things, and then started looking at the seat. I'm redoing the seat, because it is so prominent, as you wrote. The first time I did it I glued the slats into the inside of the seat and, as you can see below, it looked very untidy when I test fitted the cockpit into the airframe. I've nearly finished re-doing the seat, with the slats attached to the rear and sanded down, and it should look a lot better.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine11.jpg)
I've also painted the struts and prop, fitted the lower wing and tail, and sanded all the seams. I'll get some photo's of the struts, etc, when the oils have dried. The struts came out quite well, I think. Then it's a matter of getting up to the farm and spraying some paint on.
As for the distractions... I've started on the Tripe by doing some work on the engine. I plead receiving the Tripe decals from Pheon for the diversion- I want to get Bob Little's "Blymp" done, though Stan Dallas' N500 in overall CDL is also appealing!
I also got talked into a game of Wings of Glory, a WWI miniatures wargame. It's a lot of fun and I ended up buying a Duel Pack with MvR's Dr.1 and Brown's Camel. Of course I repainted them, so I can tell they're mine. I'm just waiting for some decals to finish them off. Then I will have finished 1 and 2/3 WWI models. ;D
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_P6010002.jpg)
Yeah, I know about old men, second childhoods and short attention spans. :-[ But it is a fun game and I've notched up my first kill (apart from colliding with my wing man and sending him down....).
Cheers.
Dal.
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G'day.
After trying to do things by eye (see below), I decided to make a jig to allow me to make the basket weave for the jig.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine29.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine30.jpg)
The slats on this one are too close, uneven and not parallel.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine31.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine32.jpg)
A simple jig was made up and I got the pattern I wanted.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine32a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine33a.jpg)
I think this is much better. I just need to add some paint, finish the cushion and the cockpit sub-assembly is complete.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine35a.jpg)
I also painted the struts, prop' and the guns. I remember reading that French fittings could be either blue-grey or black. Is this correct, or does it only apply to SPAD's? If correct, does this look reasonable (it's Humbrol 96)?
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine37a.jpg)
I also brush painted the fuselage with the two greens. There's a lot of contradictory evidence out there as to what the lighter green colour was and Roden's instructions are little help (the 1/48 instructions give different colours to the 1/32 instructions- and I doubt it's Roden's way of applying "scale effect" to the paint scheme).
I'm not trying to get an exact match, as I have a feeling that the colours probably varied as much as PC 10 or WW2 RAAF Foliage Green did. However, I do hope that the contrast between the two greens is consistent with the original scheme and doesn't look as garish as it could. As it is it looks a little too bright to me, but that's a guess.
As usual, any comments, corrections, tips and constructive criticisms are welcome.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal:
Your choice of greens looks good to my eye as applied to the fuselage. The contrast looks within tolerance and not garish at all. Nice work! I'm looking forward to the rest of this build, as I have one of these in the pipeline.
Regards,
Bob
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Dal,
Somehow missed this; I've been keeping an eye out for one of these as it's a nice contrast to the more common types. Great job so far, the seat is a very nice addition.
Cheers,
Lance :)
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Good job, Dal. Nice work on the seat. I'm really enjoying
following your build. Thanks for sharing with us.
Best Regards,
Ernie
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Hello Dal:
The reworked seat looks great! I am going to do another one of these and will use your idea of the jig for the weave pattern. I am looking forward to seeing you progress through this. The colors look good to me as well. I don't get too wrapped around the axle over colors, as long as you are happy with it, have done the due diligence to ensure they are as correct as can be and what you have to work with. I think the blue on the bottom of the struts looks good to. I like the miniatures. Not really into them, but they look fun.
Best
Mark
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G'day.
The poor old Nieuport has been put on the back-burner while I've been attending to a 1:1 built-in pantry for my lady (domestic bliss always trumps making models...or nearly always). I've also started brush painting the Nieuport's upper fuselage, as I can't get to the farm to use my airbrush at the mo'. Photo's to follow for comments, later.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_P7090001.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_P7100004.jpg)
As usual filling seams and getting a good finish on the paint job have been the most difficult. Having Herself doing project management has been, ah, different, as well.
Mark, I'm pleased with the seat. Of course, now it's painted and glued in Ron has brought out something much, much better! I've taken your advice about the colours- they look pretty close and "right". I got the tip about blue from a post by Rowan on Brit Modeller, hopefully it applies to Nieuports as well as SPAD's. The mini's are fun, even if all they are doing is collecting dust at the mo'. :D
Ernie, thanks, mate. It's fun. Much more fun than my current build.
Lance, I can see why this kit is rated as one of Roden's better efforts. There's few fit issues, the detail is nice and it's a good looking aircraft. The paint scheme, with the white cowl, really makes it stand out. Grab one of these, mate, I think you'll enjoy it. Besides, at my glacial build rate I can wait for you to overtake me and see what issues I need to look out for. ;D
Bob, thanks for the advice with the colours, mate. Between yours and Mark's advice, I'm feeling happy with the colours I used. Have you started yours, yet?
Back to work on my scratch-built pantry, I suppose.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Hey Dal, an old Canadian saying goes "Happy Wife - Happy Life"! You've got the right priorities and the pantry looks grand!
Cheers,
Lance ;)
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G'day.
Lance, your are so right, mate!
I've been brush painting this beastie and would like some comments on the colours I've used. I think the light green (mix 2:1 of Humbrol 120 to 117) and dark green (Humbrol 116) do the job (thanks Mark G and Bob H). The black will come later, a mix of Humbrol 33 and 66. The brown is Vallejo 984 Flat Brown over a base of Humbrol 98 and I'm fairly happy with that, though it may be too red. However I'm not really sure at all about the beige (Humbrol 121)- on the tail where the tweezers are sitting). Various photo's and artworks I've seen all disagree and show a colour that seems to vary from off-white to the WW2 RAF colour Middle Stone. If the colour I've used is within the range for beige I'll leave it as it is. But I have a feeling it should be darker and, perhaps, a bit more yellow?
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine39.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine41.jpg)
Cheers.
Dal.
PS The wing looks patchy because there's only one thin coat there. I was going to spray it, but I had some time, some paint and a paint brush to hand, and RAGSIII's Tripe build really has me wanting to start mine. Besides, it's time I re-learned the art of brush painting.
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G'day.
I've put the main personal markings on this beast. Various comments I'd read had said Roden decals were difficult to work with, sometimes shattering when moistened or removed from the backing paper, inconsistent and immune to decal setting and solvent agents. So I experimented with some spare markings, using a brew mug (tea/coffee mug) as a "perfect surface". (The missus asked me why I was "numbering the mugs, Dear?". When I explained, all she was "Oh", kissed me on the top of the head and walked away. Women.....) .
From my experiments, I found that:
1. They are immune to MicroSol, MicroSet and Mr Mark Softener.
2. Unless you use near-boiling water, they are stiff and very brittle.
3. They are inconsistent- two decals placed side-by side will act differently, with one silvering and the other not.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine45b.jpg)
4. Once they're down, don't move them much or they will tear (see the first "12" below).
5. They aren't opaque, with no white backing behind the prints, so some decal details change colour on different parts of a decal. and
6. The propeller logos have been simplified to uselessness.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine42a.jpg)
7. They're slightly out of register.
I also had a problem with one part of the sheet. The clear decal had frosted on a couple of markings, one being the starboard side "Hat into the Ring", and part of the decal stuck and wouldn't separate from the backing. While the frosting doesn't show up much on the photo below, it is quite apparent on the model. I'll have to paint over this to get it sorted.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine43a.jpg)
In the end I used the following method to apply them, with pretty good results:
1. Use near boiling water, changing it after every couple of decals. The water doesn't have to cool down much before the dcals stiffen and become brittle.
2. I used One Go (Aussie Pledge/Future/Klear) as a wetting agent, using a hot-water-dampened hankie to press the decal down and remove air bubbles. The One Go wet the surface and pulled the decal down as it dried, while the hot water kept the decal soft enough to conform to the details.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine44a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine48.jpg)
I have, however, ordered the Super Scale decals for LT Roosevelt's aircraft. The sheet will supply new national roundels (the kit ones just aren't up to scratch), better prop logos and some extra stencils.
Once they get here, I'll finish decalling and then do a little bit of weathering. All the loops and turnbuckles are installed, ready for rigging and the struts have been drilled and .25mm copper wire glued in as pins. I've enjoyed this build- after the J.1 it was just what I needed to keep the interest levels up. Next up- a 1/48 Crusader Mk I (yes, a tank! A mate sent the kit to me to try), then the WNW Tripe.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Looking very good Dal, the decals appear to be okay. Roden decals are a real hit and miss affair, I have been very lucky as I have built all of the Roden 1:32 scale WW1 aircraft and managed to use the decals supplied with each kit, I always use Mr Mark Softer and a good blast from a hair dryer to set the decals. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on this model.
Des.
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Very good job with the nasty obstinate decals, Dal.
I am really impressed with the paint job. Just dandy!
Waiting patiently for the next installment.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Your decal escapades just confirm my fears of these. You certainly were up to the challenge but Im going to steer clear of them. Nice work so far and has the pantry been filled with the expectation of another? It always seems these are built, not for what you have but for what can now be obtained....nothing like a shelving unit for model boxes.........
Steve
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Hello, Dal -
Glad to see back on the forum and making some progress on your model N.28. Don't be too hard on yourself, from what I'm seeing it looks pretty damn good to me. Like Mark, I don't get hung up on 'exact' colour match - nobody can really correct you as as colours used on WW1 planes are very controversial anyway. I go for 'spirit of the original' in terms of colour choice.
Roden decals can be a real pain but I don't recall any problems with the ones on my N.28 kit - they just need to be handled with a bit of care.
Keep up the good work, mate!
Regards
Dave
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Dal,
Looking great! As for the color of the beige I went with floquil Middlestone but is there really a definitive answer? Looks good to my old eyes! I still am in AWE of you brush painters ;D
RAGIII
PS: When we are both done maybe we should work on one of those show us your.... threads 8)
RAGIII
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G'day.
Des and Steve, the decals weren't all that bad, really. I've certainly had worse- those that came with early Tamiya or any Academy kits, for example. Once I hit on the trick of using very hot water with One Go as a wetting agent, they performed better than most kit decals. The only real problem was that they're translucent and that it looks like the sheet had something spilled on it, frosting the decal film. That could as easily been me as Roden. However, I've got aftermarket decals for the rest of the Roden kits, it's just I wanted to use that particular colour scheme.
And the pantry is full of the usual spices, tins, packets, bags and cooking gear. I did have plans for the small stand alone pantry that we replaced, but that's been claimed by Herself, as another linen press..... :'(
Ernie, thanks for the kind words, mate. The next installment will happen when the new decals arrive. I'll also scan the stickers they supply for the recruiting posters and make decals from the scans. I tested one on the wing and it was far too thick and unconvincing.
Dave, agreed about the colours. They look close enough and with weathering, patch-painting and cleaning, even modern aircraft colours vary from one airframe to the next.
Rick, it's amazing how well a coat of One Go can even out the worst brush marks. And I have to admit that I cheated with the beige and ecru - I sprayed over those, as the colour was just too uneven. I used Mr Hobby 79 Desert Yellow for the beige, thinning it with lacquer thinner, and it went on beautifully (thanks for that tip, Des). In fact, I'm tempted to forgo my old Humbrols and move to Mr Hobby, if they all spray as that did!
Agree about a "Show Us" thread, mate. Yours is coming along brilliantly.
Cheers.
Dal.
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She's coming along beautifully, Dal, and you did a brilliant job with the decals. I did the 1/48 scale version of this kit and the decals were horrific. It was one of my first builds after being away from the hobby for 18+ years and I had yet to learn all of the tricks to applying Roden decals. I simply soaked them in solvent, sliced the hell out of them and, in the end, had to paint around most of the markings to eliminate the silvering. Turned out okay, but yours is brilliant. Way to go, mate.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Dal:
Looking good, decals notwithstanding. When you get those Super Scale decals for Roosevelts A/C you will be pleasantly surprised at the quality and the quantity of stenciling, color etc. I'm looking forward to seeing you work this through to completion.
Best
Mark
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G'day.
The Superscale decals arrived on Wednesday and I had some time yesterday to apply them. Printed by Cartograf, they have excellent colour density and went on like a dream. They also include a lot of extra stenciling, as Mark said, and the little Nieuport insignia add a bit of interest. I must have nudged one, as it went on crookedly. I won't try to lift it off and straighten it, that will just damage the paint finish on the strut and destroy the decal. We'll put it down to the Nieuport factory decal man having a long, damp lunch.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine57.jpg)
The propeller decals are a vast improvement over the kit decals, and the national insignia have better colour and aren't translucent (see photo's above)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine52.jpg)
I've started rigging the beast (note to self- stop rigging NOW and spray with satin coat, to seal the decals, first!) and after digging around for info (25 quid for the Datafile is a bit much for me at the mo') I've got two questions I can't answer:
1. Does the central bracing wire on the undercarriage run up the the fuselage or only to where the cross-bracing wires cross over? The only photo's I found showed the latter.
2. Apparently the paired flying wires were usually wrapped (in leather or cloth?), though in some photo's from WW1 (not the museum examples) there just seems to be a central spacer about 1/2 way up the run. Photo's on Rickenbakker's aircraft show that the wires were wrapped tightly and I'm thinking 0.4mm microtube would do the job. But what colour to paint it? Buff leather or doped linen? (the dark colour in photo's could be either)
Bud, thanks for the kind words, mate. I'm pretty happy with this build, though there's some spots where I should have been more careful/ less impatient. It's a really lovely looking aircraft (near as nice as a Pfalz D.IIIa :D ). I'm glad you beat Roden's decals, mate. It was one of your notes on another forum (Aerodrome?) that mentioned using really hot water, and that's the trick.
Mark, you're absolutely right about the decals. Now they're applied the model looks 100% better than it had. Once I satin coat it (it's cool and humid here at the mo', waiting for some sunshine to come through) all I need do is the rigging and some light weathering, and she'll be done. Thanks for your advice during the build, mate, it's been a big help.
Cheers.
Dal.
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small decals add a big plus on the kit, paints look very fine!
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What beautiful little decals, they certainly add the finishing touches.
Des.
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i would like ask you why you paint strut clamp collar in grey, i saw many times in metal color, i'ts not the right material?
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Dal,
Regarding your earlier questions on the Undercarriage Bracing Wires and Flying Wires I took a brief look at the Datafile #36:
The centre vertical U/C bracing wire only goes to the cross over point of the cross bracing wires, very clear in numerous photos.
The configuration/combining of the Flying Wires is not 100% clear however here's some info;
According to the caption to the several photos of the "Historic Aircraft Collections' Nieuport 28 G-BSKS" the "detail of front flying wire attachments (port side) - wires are doubled with strip wood in-fills taped at intervals along their lengths" In the photos it shows a thin piece of wood (what I would call a lath in Canadianese) inserted between the full length of the wires and then thin strips of tape wrapped around to keep it in place between the two wires. These strips start at the edge of the bottom turn buckles and then there appear to be approximately six of these wraps evenly spaced to the start of the upper turn buckle. The best way I can describe the width of the tape wraps on a 1;32 subject is about 1.5 times the width of the outside diameter of the .5mm brass tubes I get from von Buckle.
Hope this is of some help, let me know if I can clarify this info for you. Looking very nice, BTW!
Cheers,
Lance
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G'day,
Quentin, i would like ask you why you paint strut clamp collar in grey, i saw many times in metal color, i'ts not the right material?
Short answer, mate, is that I made a mistake. I read a review on a SPAD that said that the metal fittings were blue-grey and took that as meanig all French aircraft. After reading your question, I checked photo' sources (contemporary and modern) and most show dark painted collars, though a couple show a light colour that could be natural metal. I have now re-painted the collars black.
Des, they really are good, as you'd expect from Cartograf. Tis poarticular scheme is quite colourful anyway, but the logo's add a finishing touch.
Lance, many thanks, old mate! I understand "lath" and know what you mean. I found these photo's of Rickenbacker's 'plane on acepilots.com (http://acepilots.com/images/eddie-rickenbacker-spad-cockpit.jpg and http://acepilots.com/wwi/eddie_nieuport_big.jpg ), which look as if the flying wires have been wrapped without the lathes, so I think my idea of using the micro-tube will work. At 0.4mm it may be a bit thin, but it's soft and will flatten a little (perhaps! :D ). I'll paint it a CDL colour similar to the underside if the aircraft.
If it looks naff, I'll think of a plan B.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal,
Excellent work on her new decals my old friend. I'm impressed with these Super Scale decals especially those lovely stencils. Those little beauties really make the overall appearance pop. I'm looking forward with the greatest of interest to the next awesome update .
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Looks great Dal!
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The prop looks great and those decals in the struts are a very nice add.
Great painting job on your Ni too.
Looking great.
Cheers
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The prop looks great and those decals in the struts are a very nice add.
Great painting job on your Ni too.
Looking great.
Cheers
I agree 100% ! Very Nice!!
RAGIII
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G'day.
After surviving my first ever attack of hay fever (I'd rather have broken an ankle- I turn 100% sook when something starts mucking about with my sinuses) and Round 1 of Spring Cleaning, I managed to get some more done on this beastie. I've done the initial rigging of the carbanes, tail stays, undercart and landing wires. I used Kosta's turnbuckles for the wing attachments of the landing wires and simulated turnbuckles, using RB Motion nuts and micro-tube for the carbanes, undercart and stays. I also sprayed semi-gloss varnish to seal the decals and tone down the gloss coat, though the photo's were taken before I did that. The Micro Satin I used also tones down the silvery finish of the wires.
Isn't funny how many mistakes you pick up in a photo', that you don't notice when looking for them on the model.... :-[
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine60a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine58a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine59a.jpg)
I'm pleased with how this has come out. It's up to the standards of a lot of the builders here, but it's an improvement on my Pfalz, and improving is what I'm trying to do.
Next up is doing the coaming, draping some seat-belts over the spine and fitting the windscreen. Then I'll fit the top wing and work out how to simulate the laths and wrapping that was put onto the flying wires. I've tried a couple of things, but they either look too chunky (wrapping with microtape) or are a pain to try to do (using flattened micro-tube) and still look wrong. Of course, there's option B- leave the wires bare. Although I haven't seen any photo's of R's with the wires bare, there are a couple of USAAS aircraft without the wrapping.
Gregory, how's things old mate? The Superscale decals are brilliant to use and look much, much better. Most of the stencils are on the underside, but there's more than enough to make things interesting on the top. I haven't forgotten the SPAD XIII- I've just made the trigger housings for the joy stick, put plumbing in the cockpit and I think I've found a late-model paint scheme I can easily do.
Henry and Zabu, thanks for the kind words. It's getting there (oh so slowly!).
Rick,I know it's the boring old Rickenbacker scheme, but I'm only doing the one. ;D Besides, I like it- it looks clean and simple. The only question left (apart from "HTF do I simulate the wrapped flying wires????") is whether to weather or not.? I picked up Ray Sanger's Nieuport Aircraft of World War One and the photo's of 94 Squadron's aircraft show them to be immaculately clean- even the undersides of the top wings look polished.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Hi Dal
Its really starting to come together and looking great - perhaps i'll need to build one next year!!
I picked up you are a resident of our lovely bush capital?? I've started modelling since moving to Qatar at the beginning of 2012, but count the 'bra as home (north side, Watson) and aim to get home by early 2014. Did I also pick up a reference to an ACT modelling club - it would be great to join in when I get home.... (homesick sigh). If you have any contact details etc it would be great for when I get back.
cheers
FF
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G'day,FF.
I've escaped down to the coast now, mate, fleeing the Black Hole of Russell with few regrets. Fishers Discounts and Crusader Trading have now closed (last year and last month, respectively), so getting the more esoteric supplies (such as Gunze or Lifecolor paint) means mail order.
Yes, the ACT Scale Modelling Society is going strong. It's a great bunch of people as well (though I'll deny ever saying that). Meetings are every second Wednesday at the Hellenic Club in Woden, starting at 1930hrs and the website is http://www.actsms.asn.au (http://www.actsms.asn.au).
Grab one of the N.28's, mate. So far (touch wood) all the problems I've had have been builder-induced. And it's a nice intro to twin wire rigging- there's only four lots to do.
Sent this reply by PM as well.
Oo'roo.
Dal.
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She's looking absolutely brilliant Dal, love the scheme you have used, I will have to grab one of these real quick.
Des.
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Thanks for the info - looks good.
A few decades of labour ahead of me before the Great Escape over the Clyde is feasible.
cheers
-
G'day.
Des, I think you'd really enjoy this kit. It's one of Roden's better ones, from all reports, and relatively vice free so far (the tail being the only real fit problem). However pinning the struts and undercart will be a must, as Roden's little dimples just don't allow a positive join. The kit options are all from the 94th SQN, but as Rags has showed with his build, there's some nice markings from Superscale. They're worth getting, just for the roundels and stencils, if you want to do a box scheme.
FF, the Great Escape is worth working for. It's not all good news, though- the area has "tourist prices" all year 'round and some mornings, when you're trying to drink your coffee in peace and watch the ocean waves, the young "Yoga Mums" get on the beach block the view.
Oh, it's terrible.... ;D
Dal.
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The Nieuport's coming along beautifully, Dal! Good start to the rigging. Are you
using monofilament for the wires? Snazzy paint job, my friend! By the way, I hope
your hay fever siege eases up for you. No fun sneezing whilst rigging. ;)
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Noop looking fantastic Dal!
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Nice thread Dal,
Looking good ;D
Guy
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Nice thread Dal,
Looking good ;D
Guy
I fully agree! Fine modelling all around!
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Hello Dal,
I just ordered a Roden Nieuport 28C and when I look at your beautifull work, I'm glad I did, although I will not be able to produce the same perfection!
Congratulations.
Patrick
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Great progress, now Dal -
Looking great so far. Not far to go now?
Regards
Dave
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Dal,
Been away for a week; magnificent "28"! I've been avoiding this one for a while however seeing yours and several others recently I more or less committed to the one advertised here earlier today. Hopefully I can get half way to your excellent results, she's a beauty!
Cheers,
Lance
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Your rigging is looking excellent! As I have said throughout, you are doing an outstanding job on this Lovely aircraft and kit!!
RAGIII
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Just catching up on this project. She looks great and you have met the challenge of a tough build. Not as tough as trying to look around the yoga moms but I know you'll copewith that situation as well.
Steve
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Outstanding works Dal!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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G'day.
Thanks for the kind words, gents. But the camera has been kind to this build- there's a lot of things that aren't anywhere near perfect, as I'm now finding out.
I fitted the top wing, only to find that it was out of alignment by ~1mm forward at the tip of the starboard wing. I found where I'd put my "Lance Carrol Patented Alignment Tool (TM)", a few adjustments were made to the carbane struts and some rigging was cut, and how it's sitting squarely.
But that's where the fun begins. :o
There appears to be a little bit of anhedral on the lower wing (or I've inhaled too much glue). As a result the rear interplane struts, which seemed a little too long in dry fitting, were too short by a mere fraction. The upper wing attachment to the carbane struts is fairly delicate, despite the use of copper wire pins, so using a clamp or rubber bands wasn't going to work. In the end I used a loop of invisible thread, weighted by a pair of tweezers, and that pulled the wings together enough for the rear struts to be glued in place (see the photo' below). All the time I kept remembering Rick's excellent build and that he had done a very good job of aligning his wings, so was able to snap the struts into place. There should be a green "envy" emoticon! ;D
Told yer yours was a better build, Rick! :D
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine63a.jpg)
I'm leaving the struts overnight, to allow the glue to set up properly. Test-fitting the forward interplane struts shows they may be too short by about .25mm, but I hope setting the rear struts may have fixed that. If not I'll try the looped thread again. If that doesn't work it's off with the top wing, rigging and carbane struts and start that area again, to try to work out, then eliminate, the mistakes I have made.
One good thing- I'm being very careful with this build. It won't be bouncing off the floor like the J.1 did.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal, this is turning out to be a superlative project,
I love what you have done so far. Excellent skills
and detailing . . . . Well done mate, waiting for the rest 8)
All the best
DAVE
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Super job with the adjustments, Dal. The build is gorgeous, and I'm looking
forward to the next update.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Dal,
First lets get this straight! No better or worse, just meeting opportunities in different ways! You are adjusting your fit issues in a way I would not think of, WELL DONE!
RAGIII
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G'day.
Gents, no matter what I've tried, the front interplane struts were too short. It appears you were right, Rick, and gluing on the carbane struts and rigging them put out the geometry of the wings- before removal the upper wing had it's very own positive angle of attack, which is what made the interplane struts "too short". So I've stripped the rigging and removed the carbanes. It's not all bad news, now it will be easier to fit the windscreen I'd forgotten to install.
My new plan is to fit the interplane struts to the lower wing and then work out a way to attach the carbanes so that everything is square and fits. How I'm going to do that is something I'm still considering. "Up the guts with bags of smoke" got me into this mess. A bit of "patience" (I looked up that word in the dictionary) and thought will hopefully get me out.
No photo's at this time- some idiot forgot to charge the batteries. :-[
Dal.
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G'day.
Gents, no matter what I've tried, the front interplane struts were too short. It appears you were right, Rick, and gluing on the carbane struts and rigging them put out the geometry of the wings- before removal the upper wing had it's very own positive angle of attack, which is what made the interplane struts "too short". So I've stripped the rigging and removed the carbanes. It's not all bad news, now it will be easier to fit the windscreen I'd forgotten to install.
My new plan is to fit the interplane struts to the lower wing and then work out a way to attach the carbanes so that everything is square and fits. How I'm going to do that is something I'm still considering. "Up the guts with bags of smoke" got me into this mess. A bit of "patience" (I looked up that word in the dictionary) and thought will hopefully get me out.
No photo's at this time- some idiot forgot to charge the batteries. :-[
Dal.
Dal,
Sorry to hear that you had to dis assemble! That being said just a note on how I mounted the wing:
1. I did glue the Cabanes first. I lined them up as true as possible, ran the rigging lines through the struts ( not secured where the passed through the cabanes).
2. When dry I turned the whole thing upside down, and glued the upper wing to the cabanes.
3. Right side up again I inserted thee front Interplane struts. I applied gentle pressure to bring them up ro the wing. As I recall it was a fairly tight fit. I then inserted the rear Inteerplane struts.
4. The wing was slightly out of adjustment front to back so I applied some liquid cement to the cabanes and nudged them into alignment.
5. Gentle pressure and Superglue secured the whole deal.
6. I then began securing rigging lines through the pre- drilled holes with Superglue.
I hope this helps. I know you will persevere!
RAGIII
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Dal,
You are a patient man; removing the rigging and struts for a second try is something I'd find difficult to keep my sense of humour over! Stay the course, it's a beautiful Build and one worth the extra effort. Mines arrived and I'll certainly be referring to this thread when I get at it. I was tempted to start it next, decided to wait until I get some A/M Decals, but now will wait, lurking patiently until you solve all the hard obstacles!
Good luck on the re-try, I'll be watching with bated breath! ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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Dal, if you have to go back to square one on the rigging and do it again, it's worth it.
The Nieuport is beautiful and despite the warts, you will win the war. I'm sorry
I can't offer much other than my encouragement. Hopefully, Rick and Lance have
given you the good advice to help you over the hump. Good luck, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Sorry to hear that you had to strip the rigging and start again, what a bummer. I'm sure that you will resolve the issue with the struts and have this model looking brilliant again in no time.
Des.
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Dal, I'm really sorry that she gave you so much grief, but I'm certain you'll prevail. You're a hell of a modeler, mate.
Cheers,
Bud
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G'day, Gents.
Thanks for your encouragement and support, it's saved this kit being from being put back in the box and put away. However, I can't blame the kit at all, there's something I've misaligned that's caused the problem. I'm not overly disappointed with what's happened, either, as everything I learn now will be used on the next kit (WNW Tripe) that I abuse (memory permitting, of course). Here's the beastie as it now sits:
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine65a.jpg)
As you'll see below, there's one area where I was careless with the glue. I've started smoothing this out, as I think the "fit and sit" tolerances on this part of the build are fairly tight.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine66a.jpg)
There's one part that worries me- I don't mind starting the rigging again. I actually enjoy that bit of the build (and it's the part that kept me from biplanes for a long, long time). Which means I'm probably hopelessly addicted to #$!!&@ WWI aircraft, now.
It's all the fault of you lot and your brilliant models! ;D
Rick, thanks for the tips. I'm going to touch up the paint work, attach the windscreen (my heart nearly stopped when I couldn't find it yesterday, but it was safely stored in the decal bag- exactly where I had put it....), clean out the rigging holes in the fuselage and finish painting the coaming. Then I'll look at how to sort the wing out. I'm also wondering whether pinning the carbanes hindered more than helped, by putting them slightly out of alignment. I had to cut the pins to get them off, so I'll sand the nubs off and trust to glue, now.
Cheers.
Dal.
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It's going to nice Dal ;)
The rigging is very well done.
At the end of every kit I've ever made - I've sat back and thought how I could have done something better/differently - I think that's what keeps us all hooked. The next model is going to be "the one"!
Looking forward to seeing her finished..
Guy
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I'm glad you are carrying on bravely, Dal. Keep telling yourself you're bigger than
it. ;) I guess it's just one step at a time, there is no I in team...oops, wrong cliché. ;D
I can't see how you are concerned about the glue spot...mine's starting to look like a
Dalmatian! Kidding aside, my friend, I have no doubts with your talent, you will come
up with a superb model.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Hello, Dal -
Been away from the forum for a few days so just catching up. Really sorry to hear you were having problems with the stuts and upper wing fitting.
I'm trying to remember how I attached my one. I'm sure it would be my usual method of attaching cabane struts first (in right order to get the correct 'slant' to the upper wing) let them and attached upper wing to these. I then (carefully) inserted each interplane strut one at a time with the upper wing in place.
I've no doubt you will get it all together anyhow.
Regards
Dave
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(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine07a.jpg)
The Roden Vickers guns are pretty bland, with soft detail. I decided to use the spare Vickers from my WNW Tripe for this build. Apparently a lot of the USAAS Nie.28's only had one gun mounted, preferring better performance over extra firepower. If anyone knows whether Rickenbacker or Huffer used one gun rather than two on his N.28, please let me know, as it's one of those schemes that I want to do (I like the contrast of the white cowls with the cam'd airframe).
Cheers.
Dal.
Hello Dal,
I know it is much to late for you but anyway I give it for what it's worth.
I am busy reading the journal of Eddy Rickenbacker "Fighting the Flying Circus" and there is a paragraph where he says :
"I had kicked my tail around and was heading towards my opponent. He swooped down, reserving his fire, while I kept my fingers on the triggers of my guns" So I suppose he had 2 guns.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Dal,
I am glad you have come back to this one! I feel confident that you will get it sorted out! I am looking forward to that Show us your Nieuport 28 thread ;)
RAGIII
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Hello Dal:
Glad to see you back on task with the Nie 28. With dogged determination you can get past the hurdles and proceed to completion. It is a neat model and a significant aircraft during the great war.
Best
Mark
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G'day, everyone.
Thanks for all the support and advice. Patrick, I appreciate your confirming that the aircraft should have two guns- thanks.
So what have I been doing since October? I decided to leave things alone for a couple of weeks and think about what I did wrong. Then followed a bout of tonsillitis that made me disinterested for about a month (I'm NOT having them out- I've had the same ones for 56 years and they can stay where they are!). Then my younger son decided he'd better let me know about my brand new granddaughter- Isabella Grace, born on 10 December. In that period I fiddled with the carbane struts, did some more work on the SPAD XIII cockpit (I found a scheme that I can do and the decals will be easy to make), started on my Sopwith Tripe and started work on the Neumarkisches Land-Bataillone, Kammerhusaren and Jäger-Corps web pages, for the Kronoscaf SYW site (www.kronoskaf.com/syw/index.php?title=Main_Page).
I think that, as Rags observed, the original rigging I'd used had upset the geometry and put things out of whack.
I also visited here, when possible (net access at the farm is woeful), to gain inspiration from the builds on this site.
Anyway, over the last week I've made sure the mating surfaces at the bottom of the carbanes are flat, the recesses in the fuselage are flat and very carefully glued the carbanes to the fuselage, using Lance's Patented Strut Alignment tool I made to make sure. After letting the glue dry for 24 hours (I didn't put pins in, this time, just in case), I was able to fit the inter-plane struts and get the rigging set up. As proof I offer the following photo's:
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine70a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine68a.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine67a.jpg)
The prop and wheels are attached with BluTac, so I could see what I want to achieve. Once I finish the rigging (I just need to tighten a few lines, glue the thread and trim off excess) it will be time for touching up the paint, a semi-gloss coat and a decision as to whether I'll weather the model- and how much.
The Gaspatch turnbuckles are too large to use for the rigging between the interplane struts and from the carbanes to the fuselage top, so I use the technique I developed for the rudder control wires and made turnbuckles using two short lengths of plastic microtube and an RB Motion .020" (thanks, Lance) nut. They look pretty good and are only 2mm long and .4mm in diameter. By using a longer bit of microtube and putting the nut at the top, they may even do for simulating British tensioners for their "flat" flying wires. Here's a close up of what I've done:
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine71a.jpg)
Once again, any comments, ideas or pointing out of mistakes will be welcome.
Cheers.
Dal.
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Hello al,
I am glad to read that you did a lot of things the last 3 months. Your Nieuport is looking wonderful, the propeller painted as Rickenbacker's plane and your rigging looks superb to me. If my Nieuport will look half as nice, I will be very pleased. This beauty is nearly completed! Congratulations.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Looking very nice, Dal. I really like those turnbuckles you scratched up, so much so that I'm going to order some of the RB Motion nuts (actually the .020 vs. .20 you stated?) These Roden Kits do finish up nicely but seemingly never without the odd challenge or two!
Nice work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hello Dal:
The Nie. 28 is looking mighty fine. Congratulations as well on entering Grandfatherhood! Should be an interesting time. I like the Nie. 28 and your Rickenbacker Bird looks outstanding. I was wondering how to accomplish the rigging between the struts as there isn't a lot of space there, but you did an outstanding job with the rigging.
Best
Mark
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Dal,
The Nieuport is coming along beautifully my old friend. Love those turnbuckles you've scratched. Outstanding project to date.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great job, Dal. When I first looked at your turnbuckles, I thought it was a
photo of the real thing. Wow, that's some superb work! The aeroplane is
really looking good. Wonderful progress.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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G'day, Gents.
The parts for the turnbuckles can be found at the following URL's:
1. RB Motion nuts is http://www.rbmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=76_98&product_id=135, and
2. MFH microtube at http://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-factory-hiro/mfh-p958 or http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/mfh/d-part/p958.html
Patrick, your Nieuport is coming together very nicely, mate. I think you'll do a very nice job with that. If you do choose to use the Roden decals, remember to keep the water very hot so that the decals stay flexible, and that it's worthwhile getting the Superscale decals for the national markings and extra stencil details. I look forward to seeing which scheme you choose, the Rickenbacker scheme is very simple and elegant and would look very good on your shelf.
Lance, I have fixed the Finger-Brain Disconnect :-[- thanks for spotting that.
Mark, you did a brilliant job on yours, mate, I didn't see any problems with your rigging. "Issie" (Ray hates me calling her that) in grandkid No 2- I also have a 6yo grandson from my elder son, Terry. So now I have a complete set, this year I'll buy the boys a vasectomy each for their birthdays. ;D
Gregory, thanks for the kind words old mate. See, I hadn't forgotten the SPAD.
Ernie, the turnbuckles were really easy to do (it takes about 2 minutes to cut the tube and thread the three pieces onto the rigging. They look very nice with some Mr Metal Color Stainless Steel paint. I tried using the .025" nuts first, but they were hard to keep centred. The .020" work much better.
Cheers.
Dal.
-
Congratulations, Gramps, on both Isabella's arrival and the remarkable recovery you've made on the Nieuport! Glad to see you back at it and that she's looking so very fine. I'll have to give those nuts a try for Brit tensioners.
Cheers,
Bud
-
G'day, Bud.
G'day, Bud.
I hope you survived the Silly Season with sanity and wallet reasonably intact.
"Gramps"?!!! Ta, mate. It's bad enough Ray calls me "Old F--t" when he talks to me.... ;D
I'll be interested on your thoughts about using the tube and nuts for British rigging. I've been puzzling over that question as I've studied photo's of Tripes and I don't know whether the tube and nut will look enough like the British system.
Why couldn't they have used turnbuckles like everyone else? :)
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal,
I am so glad you persevered !! Your Nieuport is now Looking Stunning and can stand with any on the forum!!
RAGIII
PS: I started that thread in the Specific Models section. Looking forward to yours joining the others ;)
RAGIII
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Your Nieuport is looking brilliant Dal, and your work on the turnbuckles is amazing.
Des.
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Hello Dal,
Thank you for the advice! Meanwhile I acquired the Superscale decals, one for Quentin Roosevelts plane and one for Ralph O'Neal. I think I will choose the Roosevelt scheme, but I think the engine cowling will not be easy! I am waiting now for Ron's seat. Any advice for the superscale decals is more than welcome. Once again many congratulations for your magnificent Nieuport.
Kind regards
Patrick
-
Hello Dal,
Thank you for the advice! Meanwhile I acquired the Superscale decals, one for Quentin Roosevelts plane and one for Ralph O'Neal. I think I will choose the Roosevelt scheme, but I think the engine cowling will not be easy! I am waiting now for Ron's seat. Any advice for the superscale decals is more than welcome. Once again many congratulations for your magnificent Nieuport.
Kind regards
Patrick
Patrick,
Can I ask where you found the Superscale Decals for this one? I found a few on EBay but not the ones I was hoping for. A search of some of the Hobby Outlets didn't produce any results either. Any details on which ones you found and where would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi Lance,
Here is the link : http://www.aviationmegastore.com/32-243-nieuport-28c-1-1st-lt-quentin-roosevelt-95th-aero-squadron-gengoult-1918-32-243-superscale-32-243-decals/product/?shopid=LM52bb21e3b8fe3648bb9f157604&action=prodinfo&parent_id=0&art=85175
If you need more info, with pleasure
Kind regards
Patrick
-
G'day.
Just a quick post to ask your opinion on my plan to do the slatting for the dual wires. If I was smart I'd have done all this before doing the rigging. ???
My plan is to use 1mm strips of 0.25mm styrene. The trick will be to get them to stick to the mono-filament lines. So I'm experimenting with Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement. To make sure that the cement won't eat the rigging, I've set up a test with a dual run and a bit of scrap styrene, which I'll leave overnight. I've also put a length of styrene on one rigging run, to see if it looks acceptable. I'm thinking I may have to reduce the width a little bit.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_rigging_test.jpg)
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/N28_mine72.jpg)
Des, the idea came about when the GasPatch turnbuckles were shown to be much too large for some jobs. I do like the effect- but GasPatch turnbuckles are far easier to use.
Patrick, the set I bought were superb and caused no problems whatsoever. All the decals really need is a gloss surface and a mild softener, suck as MicroSet and MicroSol (Mr Mark Softer will destroy them). The Roosevelt scheme is the one I got and the cowling pieces come in multiple bits. If you take your time and only do a couple of pieces each day, I can't see you having problems. And if you do have a problem, I can send you the markings from my set- I only used the stencils and cockades.
Lance, you can also get them at Sprue Brothers: https://store.spruebrothers.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Nieuport+28&Submit=Search
Cheers.
Dal.
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Superb work on this one Dal! I think the rigging looks terrific.
Mark
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Now that is a BRILLIANT Idea for the filled struts! In 1/48th scale I had heard of modelers running the lines through the same hole separated by cardboard or similar(very thin), and then running whote glue along the lines. I didn't think this would work in 1/32nd so Left just the wires. Congrats on your solution!!
RAGIII
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Mark, thanks for the kind words. There's a lot of touch-ups to do, but it seems to be coming along.
Rags, I took a lot of inspiration from your build, mate, so you deserve some of the credit for me staying with this one. I had a look at the models on the folder you set up, too- it really is a nice-looking aircraft and the models that have been put up do it justice.
Now that is a BRILLIANT Idea for the filled struts!
We'll see if it works, first. I've hoping the glue will soften the styrene enough to allow the mono to embed. If not then I may try a PVA, as suggested. If that doesn't work then I'll leave the slats off as well- I don't want to have to re-rig it because I mucked about too much.
Cheers, mate.
Dal.
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What a treasure trove of ideas this is proving to be, and all alongside beautiful work on your Nieuport, Dal. Thank you
Best wishes
Nigel
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Great idea for the rigging Dal. This one is going to be a beauty for the gallery. The finish is magnificent. Thank you so much my friend for your kind offer of the engine cowling decals. I hope I will not need them, but it is reassuring I might have a second chance. It's very much appreciated!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hey just catching up, lots of great things brewing here Dal, nice work.
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Dal,
Thanks for the link for the Decals, the other place (Thanks Patrick, it was a start!) was sold out. I'll be ordering a set today, probably the Roosevelt one so if Patrick makes it through the nose cowling stage OK I'll take second "dibs" on your blue stripes as a backup as well if I may! :P She's looking really nice and the extra effort on the rigging, both turnbuckles and slats, shows magnificently. Nice Build!
Cheers,
Lance
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Magic stuff Dal
Ripper 8)
Cheers
Dave
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G'day from hot (31°C at 1800hrs) and sweaty Oz.
Thanks for the kind words, mates. This last little bit has been very "interesting", all because of my own particular mistakes.
Lance, OK I'll take second "dibs" on your blue stripes as a backup as well if I may!
No wukkers, mate. I'm hoping that neither you nor Patrick need them, but if you do then they're good to go. That goes for the aircraft numbers and the "Angry Ass" markings, if they're needed. There's also a lot of "6177" serial numbers left over from the stencils, as well, as Rickenbacker's machine was "6159" (which I had to make).
As for the experiments with adding the slats:
1. Tamiya Extra Thin doesn't seem to effect 0.125mm monofilament (ie "Invisible Thread), so
2. 1mm X 0.25mm strip styrene softens and "grips" mono, if you lay it along the rigging lines. BUT..
3. You only get the one chance and if it slips, you either ignore it (see below) or re-do that run.
4. A little bit of spit placed in the centre of the slay makes it much, much easier to position the slat on the rigging.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine83a.jpg)
I tried a couple of things (besides stripping and re-rigging the port wing once) before deciding that I can live with the slats the way they are. It doesn't look all that bad (if I squint and stand across the room) and any further fiddling will only lead to something getting damaged (walls, my forehead, the model, the workbench, etc). So some touch up painting, some steel paint on the rigging runs and turnbuckles, a bit of weathering (especially to the engine) and I'll call this finished.
(http://members.westnet.com.au/DalGavan/T_N28_mine77.jpg)
Some lessons I learned, that may come in handy for anyone with a Salmson or Nieuport 28:
1. Yes, it is possible to drill two 0.15mm holes on each end of a 55mm run of 1mm X 0.25mm strip styrene. It takes about 10 minutes per slat and you will break ~3 X carbide micro-drill bits in the process of doing four slats. You will also spend the rest of the night sitting in a chair with a vacant expression, shivering and drooling (according to She Is Obeyed). Thus making this a modelling skill of somewhat dubious value.
2. It is possible to insert a length of 0.125mm mono into each hole- UNLESS you have superglue on the mono, when it won't fit. It doesn't matter how thin the glue is, either, though the really thin stuff does manage to get further under a finger-nail than the thicker stuff. As a bonus, some of the glue will come off the mono and block the drilled hole. No, you cannot clean the hole out, you must drill a new hole.
3. Once the mono is in the slat and apparently solidly glued in place (ie pushed into hole and glue added, then left to dry over night), the slightest tension on the mono (as when pulling it tight as part of a rigging run) means the mono departs company with the slat.
4. Testing the lesson described in para 3 more then three times, in the belief that the glue must eventually bond the mono to the styrene, is strongly NOT Recommended.
I'm going to have a break and sit in a corner for a while, before starting the tripe-hound. Despite the recent fun with the rigging, this has been an enjoyable build. The problems were self-inflicted, in the main, and I'm now quite confident about rigging these four-winged monsters, with all the practice I've had.
Dal.
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The double lines look mighty fine, Dal. It was all worth the efforts!
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I agree, the slats look great, totally worth the effort, and some great ideas you've given the teeming millions to run with...
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Thanks for sharing the lessons with us Dal. Isn't this sort of sharing one of the great features of the forum?
Best wishes
Nigel
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Looks mighty fine Dal, the slats worked out well in the end. Also, Thanks for confirming that I'm not the only one here that spends time sitting in a corner with a vacant stare and drooling/talking to myself etc!! (thought there might be something wrong but I guess I'm OK?!) ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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Hello Dal:
It really turned out great! I am not sure what it is you did, but the result is very nice. Overall an outstanding build.
Best
Mark
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Splendid Dal, it really looks nice and you are so inventive. She is a stunner. Thank you again for your kind offer!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Beautiful job with the slats, Dal, and the rigging looks nice and straight and tight. Very impressive. Once you recover, I think you fully grasp what a remarkable thing you've done, mate. Congratulations on slaying the dragon.
Cheers,
Bud
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The double lines look mighty fine, Dal. It was all worth the efforts!
I agree completely! Very nice results. My other method I thought about was wrapping decal over the wires. What do you think?
RAGIII
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I agree completely! Very nice results. My other method I thought about was wrapping decal over the wires. What do you think?
RAGIII
I was thinking this as well in reviewing the WNW Salmson....
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Thanks for the kind words, everyone. It wasn't really a dragon, Bud, but rather some silly mistakes and a little impatience at times.
Rick, My other method I thought about was wrapping decal over the wires. What do you think?
That's a bloody good idea! The film should be thin enough to wrap well. Would the decal shrink, though, as it dries (as they sometimes do)?
I may do some experimenting again, to see what happens.
Cheers.
Dal.
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It is an interesting idea indeed. I was thinking of something of a hybrid between these two approaches -- thin stiffener (perhaps styrene or PE) between the cables, wrapped with decal to hold it together, very much analogous to the original if I am not mistake.
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Rick and Bo, I did some experimenting this week, using decal strips over twin mono' and also mono' with a slat, as you suggested, Bo.
It's a very fiddly way to do it and I couldn't manage to wrap one 50mm length, mainly because the decal would tear. Using short lengths (~20mm) would probably work better than the 40mm I tried. I was using clear "Experts Choice" decal cut into 5mm strips.
Two other problems I found:
1. As the decal dried it pulled the mono'. Even under tension (heavy tweezers pulling the twin mono' strand at either end- about the normal tension I use when rigging) the spacing varied and the run looked like a sea scape, rather than being nice and flat. Using a decal setting solution just exacerbated the problem (and caused some of the film to break as it dried).
2. Using a strip of styrene took care of the above problems at first, but the edge of the styrene acts like a knife and the decal tore along most of the run. Trying to bevel the edge of the styrene just produced a sharper knife edge.
Also, when the decal had dried there was no really visible "wrap effect". However, using coloured decal or painting the finished wrap may change that. The decal film I used was very clear and thin, so hard to see as it was (which is exactly what we want in a decal's film :D )
Now this was a very quick-and-dirty experiment. Using thicker decal film, shorter lengths and perhaps finding a way to glue the styrene strip between the lengths of mono' may work better. And that would make the Salmson look very nice indeed.
Has anyone else tried a method they like?
Des, would it be better to start a separate thread on wrapping twin wire runs?
Cheers.
Dal.
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Dal - you could start a topic in the hints and Tips board explaining your technique, this will be of interest to many members.
Des.
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WILCO, Des.