forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => What's New => Topic started by: LindsayT on May 10, 2013, 12:11:29 PM
-
This looks, just, wow:
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGMU-01/Air
And you know, for $119 USD, it's right there with a bigger WnW kit. And you don't have to worry if you PC-12 looks correct!
Lindsay
-
Lindsay,
Now that's very very tempting my old friend. Even more so if Hasegawa had kept the wood.Thanks for sharing the news.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Gotta agree with you, Gregory. I liked the wood, too. I would think that a modeller's wood grain technique could really make or break this one.
-
That looks very tempting, but it is an injection moulded kit, no wood, so the modelers wood grain techniques would come into play here. The detail appears to be fairly good but without actually seeing one first hand it is hard to pass judgement. The price seems very good for a large injection moulded kit.
Des.
-
Looks interesting, Where can I get a couple of feet of "Renwalls Aeroskin" :o
RAGIII
-
The detail appears to be fairly good but without actually seeing one first hand it is hard to pass judgement.
Well if a guy were to lift his skirt just so...maybe you could come across a review kit. This would be perfect for your skills at getting the Factory Fresh Finish look, Des.
LT
-
Looks interesting, Where can I get a couple of feet of "Renwalls Aeroskin" :o
RAGIII
Rick,
LOL I wonder how many here remember those Aeroskin kits. Always thought they had a good idea just didn't work well in practice. I may still have a SPAD XIII packed away somewhere come to think of it.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Heres a few shots.
http://wwimodeller.co.nz/tag/hasegawa-116-sopwith-camel-f-1-museum-model/
My opinions rather *sitting on the fence* I don't have much Camel Reference but the fuel tank looks different to what pics I have. Detail looks a tad simplified but the price will of course be the big decider A real AMS frenzy and some real meat for the Aftermarket guys to get their teeth into.
Keith
-
Keith,
I hadn't noticed the main fuel tank until you mentioned it. I believe you're right,the tank looks as if it's been over pressured compared to the photos of the tank shown in my references.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
The chief appeal for this kit, I suspect, will be for someone for whom the Camel is their all time favourite WW1 aircraft and they want to make it the centrepiece of their display area or hobby room.
Unless Hasegawa plans more in this scale it could be somewhat of an orphan model- neither one scale nor another. The price compared with other current Hasegawa prices, is surprisingly low which suggests Hasegawa knows they may have a fight to get sales for this oddity.
Revell learned years back that oddball scales don't appeal unless there's a collection in that scale. The Revell 1/28th Camel, Dr.1, Spad and (years later) Fokker D.VII sold okay but these four were as far as you could take a 1/28th collection.
Roden and Wingnuts and others have given us a glittering assortment of 1./32 scale high quality WW1 kits and while the Hasegawa Camel looks very interesting, I suspect its appeal may be more limited than we think. Hasegawa's museum standard 1/8th scale Camel, SE5a etc way back in the past were pricey and thus out of most modeller's pockets. I would have preferred them to give us a range of 1/32 scale WW1 subjects or 1/48th.
Sadly my first reaction on seeing the Camel images was "Where would I put it?" The same reason I don't have a Wingnuts Gotha - yet ( though resistance is weakening!) :)
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
-
Well it's not quite the scaled down version of their 1/8 model that I was expecting, but it's much cheaper than I thought it would be and looks like it'll be a nice model to have. I'd be tempted to add real wood to it though, might be a fun way to customise the model.
About the fuel tank- the bulged sides look ok to me, but every model kit I've seen has a fuel tank with a neck that rises up to the level of the top of the fuselage. While on the real thing, the fuel cap is actually flush against the tank, quite some way down from the hole for it. It's maybe a case of companies copying the same resources, or each other. I'll bet the WnW version gets it right though.
http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/Fuel_Tank_Set_w.jpg
-
Whell i pre order me one as a center peach of my work :D takes a long time to build me thinks with all the wood graining but its funn to do anny way! ill be detailing this thing to the max tough!
Ron
-
How would you fellows approach the woodgrain effect with so many parts? I wonder if it wouldn't be best to assemble it in components, undercoat with acrylic, and then do the woodgrain.
Cheers,
Chris
-
well 1/16 is not that oddball a scale. all the model airways kits are 1/16 and there are a few other random things in 1/16 like figures and armor not at all like the revell 1/28 which was the only kits in this scale. i could see potential to think about getting one and use my refs to do a super detailed version, i wonder if regular tissue would stick to the plastic so you could cover one side and leave the other side open? ya know like old school stick and tissue. whatever the case it is interesting and deserves a closer look.
-
How would you fellows approach the woodgrain effect with so many parts? I wonder if it wouldn't be best to assemble it in components, undercoat with acrylic, and then do the woodgrain.
Cheers,
Chris
Yes I agree with you Chris. Glueing so many parts after they were painted is bound to make the wood grain finish look tatty
-
Scott,
The will stick to the plastic and easily so. Just wouldn't use the normal watery Elmer's though. Although I haven't covered an entire airframe with tissue I have covered the flaps and rudder of several WW II projects to get a fabric texture appearance. I used the old Testor's Liquid Cement and sealed it with Future. The Sopwith airframe and wings could easily be done as well. But I believe I'd try using the regular old tube glue instead spread as thin as possible to avoid any unevenness under the tissue. Once you're covered you would need to shrink the tissue. When all's dry you would need to seal the tissue with Future for painting and decaling . Note I wouldn't try the mylar type coverings though as they require heat to shrink them. Could warp the parts. I hope someone tries this technique on the new 1/16 scale Camel.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
PS: I found an original version of the kit yesterday on E-Bay for a mere $899.00. P.T Barnum may have been right there is a sucker born every minute.
-
How would you fellows approach the woodgrain effect with so many parts? I wonder if it wouldn't be best to assemble it in components, undercoat with acrylic, and then do the woodgrain.
Cheers,
Chris
Yes I agree with you Chris. Glueing so many parts after they were painted is bound to make the wood grain finish look tatty
James,
Perhaps the best approach would be to build in sub sections then paint as normal then apply the woodgrain.Once done you could build up the structure's sections or components and touch up were needed. Building up the entire airframe and wings then painting and wood graining would be a real pain. I learned that with my 1/32 scale Camel.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
I like the seat! I wonder if I can get a seat from Hase for my model Airways kit? I won't buy this one, but thinking on it, figured one might base coatthe entire kit, and then wood grain sections. After a session or two of woodgraining, you be ready to do some assembly, and using Tamiya x-thin would flow right into the joints if applied carefully. I guess I'll be facing this when I get to my Wright Flyer now that I think of it.
-
Richard,
Excellent I'm glad to hear you'll be offering lightweight silk coverings my old friend. I hope you can include unbleached linen too for those early types.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Richard,
Yes I do thanks to Des' inspiration. I've been kicking around the idea for awhile now of attempting a return to modelling with a scratchbuilt project.What I have in mind is a 1911 Voisin Canard. A what you must be saying! Well blame it on my love of odd ball aircraft and "Those Magnificent Men and Their Flying Machines" I've got the inspiration now just hope I can do it justice.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Good on ya Gregory for aiming for the unusual. I too love the pre WW1 aircraft and the one you have picked has been on my list for quite some time, to see photos of this aeroplane in flight it appears to be flying backwards but with the canard configuration it is perfectly normal. I hope you decide to take the plunge Gregory and get your teeth back into modeling again, I miss seeing your brilliant work.
Des.
Sorry that this topic has strayed off-topic.
-
Richard wrote:
If the Camel sells well maybe they have more in the pipeline!?
Model Airway has a Fokker Tripe in the pipeline as we speak... er, write. Albie, Nie.28, Camel, and a tripe, with the Jenny, and Flyer out there as well.
-
Sometimes you just have to do it! I have a big hobby room with a relatively high ceiling. When I was a kid, I was always impressed with the planes that hung from the ceiling of the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago. Imagine walking into your man cave and seeing that radial engine heading right for you! Sometimes you just HAVE to do it! :)
-
The Hasegawa 1:16 Camel is set to be available in July, but doing a bit of a look around revealed quite a huge difference in prices, if you intend on buying one of these kits please do your homework first, compare prices before sending any money.
Des.
Hobby Link - $121.00 US
Tower Hobbies - $239.99 US
Tokyo-Hobby - $138.80 US + $40 post
Boystown - £135.99 GBP (about $210.00US)
Ebay - $138.00 (Tokyo-Hobby)
-
For you big scalers there's another nicely done models.
I own a Sopwith Camel yet to be build.
It's from Model Airways as you may see and it's 1/16 scale.
In these models what would be wood in the real aircraft it stays wood in the model, the same for rubber or metal parts.
It comes with all you need to build it too.
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/internethobbies_2269_818551979)
-
I hope you'll consider running a build log on this Camel project Zabu. Quite a kit by the looks of what I saw when I googled it.
Cheers,
Chris
-
on ebay they have been having them available for $158.99 with $40 shipping from japan. so i will wait until someone imports some.
-
Looks like a nice kit, but a bit too large for my limited display space.
They had about twenty of these kits piled high in a store in Osaka, whilst I was there on a business trip last week.
Will be good to see the first "build" on this site.
Golden times for modelling just now!
-
Got mine a couple days ago rely nice kit first thing i did though is remove the chrome from the sprue with bleach
Regards Ron
-
Got mine a couple days ago rely nice kit first thing i did though is remover the chrome from the sprue with bleach
Regards Ron
And that worked?
Cheers,
Bud
-
Ofcours it works the kind you use to clean the toilet just buy 2 botles and put it in shink completly submurged overnicht.
You will be left with bare styrene.
Ps ghloor will work two
Regards ron
-
Great to hear you received your kit Ron, hope to see a build log here soon.
What parts had chrome on them?
Des.
-
Excellent question. Why would any WWI kit have chrome parts? Now I definitely want to see the kit before I commit to buy.
-
Excellent question. Why would any WWI kit have chrome parts? Now I definitely want to see the kit before I commit to buy.
Trust me the ghloor or bleach wil take care of the crome parts into grey plastic.
The parts that are cromed are the cowling and side, botum plates and some bits and peaches.
Iam hoping to start the build next year since im busy with the Wnw Gotha Gv conversion. And the Oefag conversion set.
Regards ron