forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: IFF1418 on May 08, 2013, 09:21:59 PM
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Hi All,
I started to build my first WW1 airplane, the RAF SE5a "Hisso" from WNW. I am end will be brushpainting for the moment and maybe save for an airbrush system later.
I'm using Tamiya acrylic paint.
My first mistake, I think, was painting the inside of the fuselage in a white primer, what made the painting of the CDL quite difficult. I also used not enough thinner on the CDL and the first layer was terrible and coagulated a lot. After adding (about 30%) of thinner and adding a retarder, it went much better.
My first question : I applied a layer of clear paint on the light wood, but it seemed to mix quite a bit with the previous layer. Is this normal? I made another try on the leather color with the same result. Can someone help me out?
The colors are not at all good, but being a novice I will have to work on that in the future models.
I also applied the bracing wires with brass ends as Des explains so well. Very pleasant job!
My second question : the rigging of the steering pedals : where are they leading to and where? Has anyone a detailed shedule of it? Thank you.
I also looked on the web for the book "The official Tecnical and Rigging notes for RFC and RNAS Fighting and Training Aeroplanes 1914-1918" by John Tanner. I found some used on Amazon, but the vendors aren't delivering to Belgium. Any idea where I could procure it?
Thank you for looking at the pictures (which will follow, as I have to reduce them furter). As you can see, it is a beginners work, and all of your experienced remarks, good or bad are wellcome. It will help me to grow in this fantastic hobby.
Patrick
Wednesday 8th mai - 1 p.m.
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Included some of the pictures of the SE5a
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Welcome Patrick!
I confess i don't completely understand your first question, and your pix are a little too small to see the problem, so it is hard to offer advice without a little more info. You say you applied a layer of clear paint to the light wood and it seemed to mix with the previous layer.
Do you mean the brush was picking up the underlying paint and smearing it? If that is the case, no, that should not happen unless you are using very strong thinner or IPA as a thinner. It could be that the underlying layer was dry but not completely cured. My best advice is to experiment on scrap until you are satisfied with your techniques.
I use Tamiya paints nearly exclusively, it can be done, but many people find them challenging to say the least. Citadel acrylic paints are a bit easier to handle with traditional brush techniques, as are Vallejo. Remember this is supposed to be fun :-)
Cheers
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Hello Patrick and welcome. Glad you joined us and showed us your build. I dont have references right in front of me but the steering pedals - rudder pedal lines run back under the seat to the rudder. For modelling puposes running them to the back of the fuselage interior and gluing them to the sides should do - unless you want to fully represent the system. Brush painting Tamiya has always been a challenge to me and as Bo says it sounds like you need to let the paint cure longer before overpainting.
Steve
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Thank You Bo and Steve!
And fun it is!
I did a try this morning with clear over leather without thinner: same result, like you said, the brush picked up the underlying paint. All my painting was put in a drying cabinet (temp about 40°). I will continue experimenting.
For the rigging, if possible, I would like to represent the original way it was done, so I learn more about the techniques. Even if it is not seen from the outside.
My pictures are originally 20 à 30 MBytes, so I reduce them a lot to go under 128KB. Any advice there?
Kind regards and thank you again.
Patrick
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Patrick,
Welcome aboard my friend. Sorry to read of your Tamiya paint difficulties. Rest assured you're not the only one having problems applying the paint by brush. I certainly do as well,airbrushes great for me thought. As for your photos I would suggest using photobucket or the the one Des used. Sorry I can't recall the name of the service Des uses ,but I'm sure you'll hear from him shortly.
You've picked an excellent subject for your first build here. Please never feel badly about being a novice here or asking questions and always remember not a one here wasn't in the same boat at sometime or another. Keep up the great work and keep those updates coming.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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What kind of Clear are you using?
Regarding the pictures, use a picture hosting service like Photobucket (free) and embed your images with an image tag. In this way you can present much larger images. I think if you hunt around under hints and tips you can find a tutorial. If not holler, and I will walk you through it.
Cheers
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Hello Gregory and Bo,
Thank you for your kind words and help!
Meanwhile I tried photobucket and it seems to succeed.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_02_zps056d77c6.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_05_zpsb2530557.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_06_zps5e1d2153.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_07_zps0f11e1fb.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_10_zps0a154671.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_13_zps7f83791f.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_S001E5a_15_zpse71554bf.jpg)
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Looks good from my vantage point!!
Steve
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Excellent progress so far Patrick, your colours look good and the fuselage frame bracing is very well done. As mentioned earlier the rudder bar control cables run under the pilot seat, this is quite easy to achieve. Looking forward to seeing more updates, the photos posted perfectly.
Des.
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Very fine start, Patrick. I look forward to watching your progress.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Patrick
That's a good start on the Wingnuts SE5a. As a fellow brush painter who has made this model, my main advice is to avoid using Tamiya acrylics. They are just not- in my experience- friendly to brush painters and subsequent coats can drag up the paint underneath.
The best acrylics I have found are Foundation/ Citadel Paints, and the new line of Humbrol acrylics brush very nicely. Vallejo too but for me Humbrol is best for large surfaces. They thin with water and give a good, brush mark-free covering.
Google image search is a marvellous resource for colours especially for preserved SE5a's.
cheers
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Thank you all!
Bo I'm using Tamiya Clear X-22. Quite disappointing.
David, unfortunately I acquired all my painting for at least two models before I joined the forum. So that's a whole lot. I will maybe gradually replace them by Humbrol or so. I must say that color mixing to obtain the desired color is one of the most difficult aspect of modelling!
Kind regards
Patrick
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I guess I have never tried brushing Tamiya Clear over large areas of painted surface. The clear colors seem to have a somewhat different formulation. (But are wonderful imo). Future may be a better bet for adding gloss.
You might find this page (http://zerobxu.wordpress.com/2008/03/10/hand-painting-with-tamiya-acrylics/) useful. The workflow he describes is pretty much how I use them with a brush.
Again, they airbrush absolutely beautifully and I suppose that is the main reason why I put up with the tricky way they handle on a brush. I have since discovered that they are actually quite forgiving and versatile when applied with a brush, once you master the idiosyncrasies. That said, if you are having a miserable time with them, maybe it's not worth fighting with them as there are friendlier options for brushwork, as noted above.
Cheers,
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Nice start Patrick - very neat and tidy, as another brush painter i use humbrol enamel thinned with their own thinners for large areas and it works well if you can put up with the longer drying times.
michael
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Hello Patrick:
This kit can try mens souls: It was my first WNW kit and was a disaster. However, I built another one and then another one. I am attaching the link to my build log that may help you out as I point out some of the problems with the kit and with the directions and sequence.
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=996.0
I hope you find it useful. As to paint. I agree, tamiya acrylics can be challgening to brush. If you go over the paints with the thinner it will pull the paint up. I think that is what is happening with you.
Good Luck
Best
Mark
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Patrick, I hate to say this, but I have to agree with Mark and the others. I absolutely loathe Tamiya acrylics for brush painting and since I invariably have to touch up my airbrush work with a brush at some point, I've quit using them altogether. I am sure, however, that someone here will come up with a solution for you. That said, your doing a fantastic job so far.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Mark,
Thank you so much for the link to your log, which i'm going to study profoundly. I'm sure it will be of great help.
The problems with the clear layer : instead of a layer of clear Tamiya on the pilot's cushon, I used a few layers of clear fingernail color ( !!??) and added a layer of clear Tamiya. The result is not worse or better than de Tamiya layer, but it was worth trying.
Meanwhile i started the rigging of the cabin. I tried to make my first turnbuckles (thank you Des!). I will post some pictures soon. And now I'm going to read your adventures Mark.
Thank you Bud for the kind words. It's quite encouraging for me. This forum is full of very gentle people and i'm very glad i discovered it, and i'm amazed about the high standards of modelling of you all, something i can only dream of.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Mark,
I read through your build log of the SE5.a and i must say it's quite impressive. Very good colours, very nice painting, extremely well buid. At the same time i realise that the choice of my very first airplane model was a bit to optimistic, i think i wil have all the difficulties in the world to obtain a decent result. I will continue to have your log beside me to avoid major disasters.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Dear All,
Included some pictures of the SE5.a after the struggling with turnbuckles and wires in the pilots cockpit. Could be much better and hope that the next one will be more satisfying. I'm afraid that i will have some problems closing the fuselage as the pilots chair seems a bit high, in my opinion. Now i'll start the control panel (decals) which i will do also for the first time.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_24_zps77645112.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_18_zps630e6fd5.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_21_zpsfadcd393.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_22_zps46279ff7.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_19_zps663c130c.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_20_zps1ba1adc6.jpg)
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I think you're making great strides here Patrick. She's looking good. These models are challenging and I know it's been a steep learning curve for me, so don't get downhearted. Patience is the key.
Cheers,
Chris
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The cockpit looks fantastic, Patrick. You did a brilliant job on the control lines.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks a lot Chris and Bud, this is really encouraging for me. I thought it wasn't well looking. Maybe the pictures are masking some of my errors but anyway your kind words give me a lot of courage to continue.
Busy applying the decals. Have you any idea of the drying time? And is there any other layer one has to put above them?
Thank you!!
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Busy applying the decals. Have you any idea of the drying time? And is there any other layer one has to put above them?
I let them sit overnight before touching them. But then I let everything sit overnight. :) I believe in letting things set.
You can seal them with Future / Klear. Be aware that Future/Klear darkens things slightly. You can also seal them with Dullcoat or clear coats of various types, test on scrap first if you aren't sure how it will look or how it will react with the decals and paint...
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Thank you Bo!!
Patrick
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I agree with Bo 100% on that. Speed is your greatest enemy in modeling. I like to seal my instrument decals with a drop of this:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/TES00003515/product.php?s=4&t=2&u=0
Looks like a glass lens when dry and gives the instruments depth.
Cheers,
Bud
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Duh, I didn't quite pick up that you were talking about the instruments. In that case, what Bud said :)
An alternative is to punch little discs out of acetate and affix with a tiny drop of white glue on top of the dial. Requires a precision punch set though.
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Good luck with those instrument decals. Sometimes they drive me crazy. I set one in place and then it decides to rotate like a compass looking for due north. I coax it back into position and then watch it rotate out of line again. Drives me crazy. Other times I'll set them in place only to second guess myself that they're correct. Out with the magnifying glass because nothing looks so bad as an upside down instrument gauge when you see it in a closeup image . . . after the fuselage is buttoned up. :o
Cheers,
Chris
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That's looking good, Patrick. I agree with Chris, those instrument decals have a mind of their own and you can't turn your back on them, until they dry.
Dal.
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Thank you Dal ! Indeed Chris these decals go there own way all the time. I even ended up with no glue on one of them and I had to glue it myself. Not looking good. I use a magnifying glass in anything I do on the model, my eyes have deteriorated the last 10 years. So every little error I make is magnified. Really scary.
Kind regards
Patrick
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You did a great job with the turnbuckles and the rudder bar rigging, believe me, making turnbuckles gets easier and easier the more you make.
I always use Mr Mark Softer under my decals (painted onto the surface where the decal is going to be applied) then pat it dry with a paper tissue, I then hit it with a blast from a hair dryer, this makes the decals really hug the surface, not too much heat though or it could bubble your decal.
To simulate the ''glass'' over the instrument face I use a drop of Futures or a drop of Humbrol Clear Gloss, make sure the instrument is flat on a level surface when applying the clear drop if not the clear could run off to one side, not a good look.
Your cockpit is looking excellent so far Patrick, looking forward to seeing your next step.
Des.
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I agree with Bo 100% on that. Speed is your greatest enemy in modeling. I like to seal my instrument decals with a drop of this:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/TES00003515/product.php?s=4&t=2&u=0
Looks like a glass lens when dry and gives the instruments depth.
Cheers,
Bud
You did a great job with the turnbuckles and the rudder bar rigging, believe me, making turnbuckles gets easier and easier the more you make.
I always use Mr Mark Softer under my decals (painted onto the surface where the decal is going to be applied) then pat it dry with a paper tissue, I then hit it with a blast from a hair dryer, this makes the decals really hug the surface, not too much heat though or it could bubble your decal.
To simulate the ''glass'' over the instrument face I use a drop of Futures or a drop of Humbrol Clear Gloss, make sure the instrument is flat on a level surface when applying the clear drop if not the clear could run off to one side, not a good look.
Your cockpit is looking excellent so far Patrick, looking forward to seeing your next step.
Des.
Thank you Bud and Des,
As applying the instrument decals is not working till now, I will acquire the materials you indicated. Your material is not send to Europe and the Mr. Mark Softer is out of stock for the moment. So i will put the decals aside for the moment and continue with other things (enough to do!)
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Patrick:
You are making good progress on this kit. The seat height looks right, albeit it should sit right under the fuselage. Also if you look at my build log, there is the fire wall that sits on the incline portion of the interior. If I remember correctly, I fixed it when I put the fuselage half together to ensure a good fit. Your patience and effort will reward you with a wonderful model. While you are waiting for your supplies, you can always put in they rigging eyelets, paint the wings, decal etc. Like Bo said, let it sit overnight. Sometimes that is the best route to take, don't rush and if you get frustrated, let it sit overnight, ponder your next step, and viola, all will be well.
Good luck Patrick, it is coming along nicely. Remember, it is all a learning experience, and the model you are working on now is your best one to date. ;)
Best
Mark
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The seat height looks right, albeit it should sit right under the fuselage. Also if you look at my build log, there is the fire wall that sits on the incline portion of the interior. If I remember correctly, I fixed it when I put the fuselage half together to ensure a good fit.
Mark
Hello Mark,
Thank you so much. You are all so gentle!
As you can see in the attached pictures, I did a dry test on closing the fuselage and i incorporated the fire wall too. The closing isn't perfect at all at the chair nor at the fire wall. And the fire wall isn't straight at all.
Many kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_29_zps334bd564.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_28_zps208a40c0.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_27_zpsdd0bd1ea.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_26_zps86dfd52c.jpg)
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Dear All,
A smal update. I closed the fuselage now. As you can see, one instrument decal went airborne long before the plane. Still looking for it. The closing is far from perfect. I had many difficulties closing because the pilot's chair was much to high and I had to file it. Although it is not so good looking I learned a lot and I want to thank everybody who helped me out till now.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_36_zps889b380c.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5a_37_zps8c692d03.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5e_41_zpsb049e1e7.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/SE5e_43_zps5655a6ee.jpg)
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Looking very good so far, Patrick. Once she's all closed up, seams all filled and sanded, all previous trials and tribulations will soon be forgotten. Looking forward to your next update, my friend.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thank you Bud this gives courage again. learned a lot till now and hope this will reflect in the future models.
Many kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Patrick:
Once you put the pilot coming on you won't be able to see to much. If you filed it down the coming will fit fine. I think you got the fire wall on the inside of the inclined floor, it should be on the outside. Try just fitting it into the fuselage side without attaching it to the flooring. You may need to trim it a bit, but try that. It should be straight up and down, not the angle that you had originally had it at. Otherwise, it is coming along nicely.
Good Luck
Mark
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It looks really good to me mate! Keep it up!
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what a nice kite!!
keep on building, it's growing well!
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Thank you Mark, Filip and FC65. Very kind of you!
I think you got the fire wall on the inside of the inclined floor, it should be on the outside. Try just fitting it into the fuselage side without attaching it to the flooring. You may need to trim it a bit, but try that. It should be straight up and down, not the angle that you had originally had it at.
Good Luck
Mark
Mark, indeed it didn't look good, not straight at all. I closed the rest of the fuselage and waited with the firewall. It fits well into the fuselage and I will do as you propose. Thank you!
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Your work is gaining momentum on this one! Looking really nice now that it is all closed up!
RAGIII
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Thank you RAGIII. The worst is yet to come! I like doing it very much, but still so much to learn
Kind regards
Patrick
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I think that is the most important thing - youre enjoying it!! She's looking great and your meeting each new challenge well!!!
Steve
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Patrick,
This thread and your project just keep getting better and better my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thank you Steve and Gregory!
Indeed the most important thing is the joy of doing it. At the same time it helps to remember that terrible period that all those men from all over the world had to go trough. It should always be remembered that a whole generation was blown away. I'm glad to be a part of all you people on this wonderfull forum!
I think I will try now to build the engine with the modifications Des applied. I will see where that is going to lead me.
Many kind regards
Patrick
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Just catching up on your build Patrick and it's starting to come together nicely and looking great
michael
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Thank you Michael!
Looked up your region. Wonderfull place to live!
Kind regards
Patrick
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well as it's a bank holiday here the rain is sheeting down ;D
michael
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Hello Patrick:
Now that you have the fuselage buttoned up, the worst is actually behind you. Carefully plan your next steps. Ensure you rig the upper wing prior to fixing. I would recommend doing the tail surfaces first before moving on to the wings. Leave the landing gear on for last after you have rigged the model. The landing gear is the anchor points for the front two sets of flying wires. Once everything else is rigged, this is a piece of cake.
Good Luck
Best
Mark
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hello, i just for the first time today saw your post. to me looks good so far especially for your first ww1 aircraft. if i had seen this earlier i would give advice to not use tamiya paints to hand brush. unless you add retarder they do not work well. the problem is tamiya is not a true acrylic. its base is a hybrid and for some reason unless the paint is completely cured(perhaps a week or more) the fresh paint will melt the earlier layer slightly. this is ok if you use tamiya with airbrush. but when you use a brush the strokes pull up the earlier coat slightly which gave you your mixing effect. you can solve this by using a spray can clear or try different paints. i have found good results with pollyscale,model master. and vallejo acrylic paints. the best thing to do in my opinion is to inly use tamiya to airbrush but there have been some guys who can make wonderful things happen with tamiya and brush, it is just harder. keep up the great work i enjoyed your progress.
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Thank you Mark and Albatros1234!
Mark, your log is still next to me as is the one of Des. For the rigging I think I will order the Windsock Datafile of the plane. Don't you think this would be a good idea. I hardly know how to begin with it. For the moment I will be doing the small painting jobs like the inspection panels, Vickers Gun a.s.o. The engine I will finally do OOB. I think a more sofisticated one will be for my next model.
Albatros, the problem is that I acquired all my painting material before i discovered this wonderfull forum and I have quite a lot of Tamiya acryl paint. So maybe the best thing to do is to buy (soon it will be father's day) an airbrush system for the larger parts. However I will have to learn this airbrush technique too. I acquired a smaller (1:48) and cheaper model (Spad XIII) to exercise. No hurry!
The advices of you all are very valuable to me!
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Your model is coming along beautifully Patrick, and Mark has offered you some very sound advice. The rigging on the Se.5a looks daunting but it is not as difficult as first appears. There is quite a large space between top and bottom wings so rigging is made a lot easier, also the cabane struts stand fairly high above the fuselage so again this helps in the rigging process. When I build a model I always do a google search on the particular aeroplane, I gather as many photos as possible especially of the cockpit interior and the rigging. I like to get close-up photos of all the rigging connection points with the struts and wing also the rigging lines which connect to the fuselage. I hope you are enjoying the build so far.
Have a look here Patrick -
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=se5a+pictures&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=7nukUdiYGaafiAfI_oCYCg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1680&bih=967
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=1057.0
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=930.0
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=855.0
Des.
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Thank you so much Des. Some of them I've seen before, but these on the forum not all. Very good pictures. It certainly is a very pleasant thing to do Des, and all the people on the forum are very kind and helpfull. I have a whole lot to catch-up, and my knowledge of airplanes isn't very high I must say. Still very glad I landed on this forum. So thank you again Des.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hi all,
This is a small update. The inspection panels are painted. Maybe I had better waited for the painting of the wings, but I will mask them before. The engine is about finished too. Thank you for looking at the photo's.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_52_zpsf8e2c5b7.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_51_zps4059cc89.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_49_zpsd1c5afbd.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_48_zpsaa40eefc.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_47_zpsbbd6324d.jpg)
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Patrick,
She's coming along just beautifully my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Patrick,
Comeing along nicely! Keep plugging away this one will be finished in no time now!
RAGIII
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Keep going. Youre doing a nice job on it and you must be enjoying each success!!
Steve
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Thank you so much Gregory, Rick and Steve, your ecouragements are so valuable to me. I continue to learn from the errors I make. I'm sad that I waited till now to start such a marvellous hobby and wasted a lot of time, and getting to know such friendly people from all over the world.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hi all,
There is a little confusion about the numbers of the ailerons (lower and upper wings) mentioned in the instruction gide of the SE5a of WNW. On p.9 the right-hand aileron of the lower wing is numbered B2 and on p. 12 the left-hand aileron of the upper wing is numbered B2 too. So this leaving me with part B1. As I see, the elevator holes are on the upside for the upper wings, and downside for the lower wings, so part B1 could serve for the left-hand aileron of the upper wing. Can anyone help me?
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_60_zpsf9723af4.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_57_zpsc894bdd7.jpg)
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Welcome to the world of confusing Wingnuts instructions. The main thing to watch out for is that the aileron control horns for the top wing are on the top of the aileron and on the bottom wing the aileron control horns are on the bottom of the aileron. There is a connecting control cable between the top and bottom ailerons on each side of the aircraft.
Des.
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Thank you Des, I thought it was like that.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Patrick:
It looks like you are making good progress. No worries on the control inspection windows, just ensure you mask them off well prior to painting. As Des Mentioned just ensure your control horn attachment points are facing the right direction. I pinned mine with brass wire, it helps a lot with rigging and handling as you can leave them off until you actually need to rig them and you can put them on and off for decaling as well. In fact, I pin all of my control surfaces now just for that reason. It is easy to do and really saves a lot of hassle with glueing and knocking them off later.
Good Luck, you are doing fine.
Best
Mark
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Thank you so much Mark. For the moment I'm fixing the ailerons and I'm painting a lot of parts for future use. For the horns Mark, are you saying that you replace the plastic horns by brass wire until at the end, after painting and applying the decals, you glue the original onces? Or did I misunderstood that?
The more I look at your pictures of your Phenix mission, the more I like the plane. You did a wonderfull build there Mark.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hi Patrick, this explains how to pin the control surfaces:
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/vE4729D0A/www/hintsandtips/Improved%20Control%20Surface%20Attachment.jpg
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Thank you Rizzo! I had it all wrong. Maybe a little bit of confusion with the terms I'm not so familiar with them and it's not my native language. Thanks to all of you gentle people I will come to learn them. Thanks again!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Patrick:
After re-reading my post, I can see why you would be a little confused, as it wasn't real clear. The link shows how to do the pinning quite nicely. As you can see it is a simple procedure but yet effective. I put the control horns on quite towards the end of the build so as not to ruin them. I did split the ones for the tail control surfaces, but had no problem attaching them. I let them set up overnight and they were fine to rig later.
Best
Mark
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Thank you Mark!
The link makes it all clear. Unfortunately I glued the ailerons before your post, but I didn't glue the control horns except for the tail plane. I guess I will have to live with that. I will remember that technique of pinning the ailerons for the next one.
Meanwhile I started to assemble a cheaper 1/42 Spad VIII in view of excercising the paint of the wings and fuselage. I acquired an airbrush set because I don't want to ruin this SE5a and I have a long way of trial and error before me.
Thanks again
Kind regards
Patrick
-
Hello again,
This is a small update for you, but for me it was a period of learning how to airbrush. I ad some photo's from the work done. I will to be masking the wings better in the future. I struggled a lot mounting the engine. And the wing shadings are almost completely gone. But nevertheless I'm rather pleased with the first results. Now I will have to put on the decals (not my favourite job) and then putting the eyelets for the rigging. Thank you for looking at the photo's. THe Vickers gun isn't fixed yet.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_62_zpsa0714c53.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_64_zps7b4c6666.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_65_zpsaa9b34b7.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_66_zpsdcb6ce70.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_67_zpsbc24a277.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_72_zpsf1007d41.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_69_zps2478ac9c.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_70_zps4a026864.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_71_zps073832ae.jpg)
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Very fine work, Patrick. The wing and tail rib shading is nice and subtle, as it should be. Excellent update.
Cheers,
Bud
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You should be pleased Patrick! Looks great.
-
Thank you Bud and Bo! I'm very pleased to read that. Sometimes I hesitate to post the pictures when I look at all the beautifull and high standard models that are posted here.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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There is nothing wrong at all with the standard of your work Patrick, what you have achieved so far is very pleasing. I like the colour you used on the fuselage and wings and the wing and tail shading looks fine. Looking forward to seeing what she looks like with the decals applied, keep up the good work.
Des.
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Thank you Des! I applied the decals now and they were looking rather good, but I ruined one by touching it with a masking tape, so I will try to recover it a little bit. These are all beginners accidents. I started to fix the eyelets and wires on the upper wing. Thank you very much for your encouraging appreciation!
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Patrick,
I have to agree with all of the others. Your paint work and shading is great! Looking forward to your next update,
RAGIII
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Hi Patrick! Nice work. :D Your choice of the phrase "try to recover" regarding the decal damage is an excellent one. That was not a "beginner's accident"--it happens to all of us from time to time, sometimes with annoying regularity! :o Your intent to persevere and resolve the problem with ingenuity and planning is the correct path to maturity in scale modeling, IMHO. You will be just fine. You have the right attitude. :) Enjoy yourself, as we will all enjoy your progress and probably learn some things from you as well. I have not yet built the WNW SE5a, so I will surely be watching to learn! ;D
Regards,
Bob
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Thank you RAGIII and Bob, if I'm doing rather well it's thanks to all you gentle people with advice and encouragement, and with all the beautifull examples posted on the forum. Without the forum I would have never known how to start on it and it helps me to become better. I still have a long way to go but I enjoy doing it very much. This said, the SE5a is a beautifull plane and I became to love it more and more. WnW has made a wonderfull kit.
So again, thank you all !
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hello all,
Some pictures of the decals. Should there be another mat cote on the decals after applying them?
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_84_zps52a6004f.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_74_zpsac534bb9.jpg)
Here the exhaust is much to high, don't now how to fix this!
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_80_zps7b9e26c1.jpg)
Here is the ruined decal
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_76_zpsd25d258f.jpg)
Here after the attempt to "recover" it a bit
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_85_zps722c34da.jpg)
Thank you for looking!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Patrick, it really doesn't look bad. Pretty good salvage
job I'd say. I suppose if you wanted you could
incorporate it in a darker colour "patch"...I thing most
aircraft had them here and there. Keep up the good work,
and by the way, your airbrushing looks good!
Cheers,
Ernie
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Hello Ernie,
Thank you so much for your kind words. Do you mean by "patch" I should only paint over the decals with a clear mat layer? I'm not familiar with all the painting techniques that are used.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Hi Patrick,
What i meant by patch was a small square of "fresh" fabric/paint over an
area to simulate repairing a tear or hole in the original fabric. In the
field, I imagine ground crews did this quite often without too much regard
for original markings underneath. Food for thought. Carry on with your build,
your're doing great!
Cheers,
Ernie
-
Looks really great! Too bad about the decal but others have given you some good suggestions! As an alternative you could use a little white decal cut to shape to fill in the letter. All in all very nice!
RAGIII
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Hi Patrick,
What i meant by patch was a small square of "fresh" fabric/paint over an
area to simulate repairing a tear or hole in the original fabric. In the
field, I imagine ground crews did this quite often without too much regard
for original markings underneath. Food for thought. Carry on with your build,
your're doing great!
Cheers,
Ernie
Ernie, I understand now wat you meant. Good idea, but wouldn't it look like I did a messy painting? As all the rest would be like coming out of the factory (I'm not yet far enough for weathering). Thank you very much for the kind words.
Looks really great! Too bad about the decal but others have given you some good suggestions! As an alternative you could use a little white decal cut to shape to fill in the letter. All in all very nice!
RAGIII
Thank you RAGIII, that's what I did (sea my last picture). I found a "4" on the decal sheet and took a part of that after cutting it to the right size. Thank you so much for your encouraging words!
Kind regards
Patrick
-
I can't quite see what the problem is with the exhaust, it should run just above the stitch line on the fabric. You did a good job with the repair of the damaged decal, what I usually do in a case like this is to cut a piece of white decal to the correct size and shape and apply it over the damaged section. After I apply my decals and giving them time to dry I always spray them with a clear coat, this protects the decals and gives the correct sheen, either a satin ot matt clear. You are doing a great job with your build, this has been a fantastic learning curve for you and you will find your next build to be a lot easier. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing the top wing mounted.
Des.
-
Looking really good. i'd definitely put on a clear coat after decalling, but gently wipe the whole area with clean pure water, and let it dry beforehand. Nice recovery on the "F"!
-
Thank you Des and Rhinocrat. As you propose I will put a clear coat over the decals. They will become less vulnerable I hope. Des indeed this one exhaust is placed much to high. I had a lot of problems fixing them and maybe the engine wasn't placed in line of the exhaust. I don't think I will undo it or would you?
Thank you both for the kind words.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Nice save on the decal, Patrick. The repair looks good.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thank you Bud. I was very happy having saved it a little bit. Wasn't looking good at all. That way, little by little I will learn and gain more confidence.
Thanks a lot and kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Patrick, this is coming along quite nicely and nice save on the decal. It looks like you may have got the exhausts on the wrong side. Left on the right side, and right on the left side. You may want to take them off and pre-rig the cabane struts as it is a bear with the exhausts on. You may also want to test fit them before fixing them. It is up to you. You have made great progress and it is looking real good. I am looking forward to your next update. I have been away from the forum for awhile as I have taken a part time job and with decent weather here in the great upper midwest of North America, spend more time away from the computer and the bench.
Take care and best
Mark
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Hello Mark,
Glad to have You back! I hope You enjoy your part time job. In Europe we had a bad spring, I hope next week the weather will be a little better.
Unfortunately I already recovered the exhaust, so I will leave it as it is. I hope the rigging will not be to difficult then. For the moment I'm painting the struts. The rigging of the upper wing is done, I still have to paint the brass tubes.
Thank you Mark for your kind words.
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Patrick,
She's looking more and more beautiful each time I revisit this thread. Your paintwork is very pleasing to the eye my friend. Congratulations on the decal save too. Well Done .
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thank you Gregory! I hope this is not just beginners luck. I enjoy it very much even though I'm a little bit scared of the rigging. Is there a common technique for adjusting the upper wing? Thank you again!
Very kind regards
Patrick
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Patrick, I don't think it much to do with beginner's luck.
You have an obvious talent and it is showing more all the
time. I am looking forward to the next installment. Keep
up the good work!
Cheers,
Ernie
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Hello Ernie,
Thank you very much! I think for me the worst is yet to come - the rigging! But I'm very pleased with the results to now and all the kind encouragements from the forum. I must say that I like this plane very much, every day a little more and I'm sorry I didn't start modelling a few years earlier.
Thank you again Ernie.
Many kind regards
Patrick
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Hello Ernie,
Thank you very much! I think for me the worst is yet to come - the rigging! But I'm very pleased with the results to now and all the kind encouragements from the forum. I must say that I like this plane very much, every day a little more and I'm sorry I didn't start modelling a few years earlier.
Thank you again Ernie.
Many kind regards
Patrick
Hello Patrick: If you work real methodically with the rigging it isn't bad. I work from the rear portion of the wing to the front and inside to outside. Just take your time, frequent breaks and you will be fine.
Yes, we have had a miserable spring here. We went from winter to a rainy summer. This week we have been blessed with 5 sunny rain free days in a row! My bride and I have to get on the Harley and ride, so little time at the bench. I am getting antsy to finish my DVII though.
Looking forward to your next update.
Best
Mark
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Hello Mark, thank you very much for your much appreciated advice! I'm still busy making eyelets and tubes and have to put them in place. Also studying where everyone of them is leading to. I wouldn't like to ruin the plane now!
We are having the very first sunny summerday. But I think I'll stay at the bench today.
Be carefull with the bike!!
Many kind regards
Patrick
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Dear all,
I’m afraid this will be the last post in the history of the SE5a I was building. After attaching all the eyelets and rigging cables on the upper wing, I glued the struts on the upper wing too. My eyes were deteriorating more and more and I had to wait for change of eye glasses. When the moment came to put the upper wing in place, I managed to break 2 of the struts and also one of the cabin struts. The struts were broken right on the hole where it is fitted in. I tried to fix as good and bad as I could, but the whole system wasn’t stable anymore. So the SE5a was very close to the trash bin.
Lessons I have to learn from this all is that I really am no good in gluing and that I was extremely clumsy in handling the wings and struts. I think I will go for a biplane jig and have already acquired the little tool from RB productions which helps to control the dose of the glue. Furthermore I have to better understand the material, as I was always busy in handling wood.
But nevertheless I think I learned a lot till now, I am sad about it but not discouraged and I want to thank all of you who helped me out with my problems. I think the SE5a was maybe to difficult a plane (certainly what the rigging is concerned) for a newbe like me. As I still have the WnW Triplane, I think I will get started with this one, and maybe later on I can try to recover somewhat the SE5a which I still like very much.
:-[
-
:(
Sorry to hear it went pear shaped for you Patrick, but it sounds like you have the right perspective on the whole thing.
On to the next one then!
-
Patrick, I'm sorry to hear of your troubles with the SE5. I had the same thing with my Camel,
and bad as that was, it led me into other things, which is like a breath of fresh air. So, if you
decide to shelve the SE, and move onto the tripe, more power to you. I bet you will come out
of this an even better modeller. Onward and upward! 8)
Looking forward to your new first update.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Dear Bo and Ernie,
Thank you so much for your support! I'm feeling like i'm amidst all good friends. Indeed this is one a the few forums where I did see and heared but friendhip and encouragement. I still like it all very much and hope to do better in my next build. With all your help this must succeed. I'm only sad I ruined such a beautifull plane.
Patrick
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Dear Bo and Ernie,
Thank you so much for your support! I'm feeling like i'm amidst all good friends. Indeed this is one a the few forums where I did see and heared but friendhip and encouragement. I still like it all very much and hope to do better in my next build. With all your help this must succeed. I'm only sad I ruined such a beautifull plane.
Patrick
Patrick,
Sorry you lost the SE, however I believe you've learned a great deal from the experience. If it's any comfort keep in mind that, as you model on, you'll look at your earlier Builds and think "I certainly could have done that much better"! One of my greatest pleasures in this Hobby is that, with everything learned, most consecutive projects turn out better and improvement is the most rewarding experience of all. Why, with another dozen or so Builds I MAY start to approach the half way point in matching some of our "world class" members, and so will you! That's why I enjoy this Forum so much.........inspiration and all the positive and helpful feedback you could wish for!
Hope to see that DR1 on here real soon!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thank you very much Lance, it is much comforting. I'm so glad I found this forum thanks to Des and that means much more to me than that I ruined my plane. Good to see that there are still so many good and friendly people around the world. I'm very touched!
Patrick
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I'm so sorry that the SE didn't make it, Patrick. I hope you didn't toss her, though. With a drill and some brass pins, all can be remedied. And now that you've got your new glasses, you'll actually be able to see what you're doing. I'm glad to see that you're moving on to the next build. That Tripe is a nice kit.
Cheers,
Bud
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Sorry to hear that Patrick.. :-[
I ended up junking a Rumpler after dropping the whole thing whilst trying to fix the upper wing... Deep breaths...
Guy
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Thank you so much Bud and Guy,
I'm so sorry that the SE didn't make it, Patrick. I hope you didn't toss her, though. With a drill and some brass pins, all can be remedied. And now that you've got your new glasses, you'll actually be able to see what you're doing. I'm glad to see that you're moving on to the next build. That Tripe is a nice kit.
Cheers,
Bud
Indeed Bud I have now my new glasses and what I see now is very disappointing. Hope the tripe will be much better.
I think I will enjoy it!
Sorry to hear that Patrick.. :-[
I ended up junking a Rumpler after dropping the whole thing whilst trying to fix the upper wing... Deep breaths...
Guy
Yes Guy but I didn't drop it, I just wasn't good enough. I appreciate it very much though. Hope to post my building start soon.
Patrick
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Chin up, Patrick!
Tomorrow is another build ;)
Good luck!
Von Buckle VC & Bar Bar
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Thank you very much Bob, right you are, tomorrow is another day and another build. Your support is highly appreciated! :)
Patrick
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So sorry to hear of the problems you encountered builiding your beautiful model, what you had achieved up to that point was excellent. Put this down to a learning experience and go ahead with the knowledge you have gained from this exercise. I am looking forward to following your next build which I feel will be brilliant.
Des.
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Dear Des, thank you! Indeed it was a pleasant experience and i enjoyed it a lot. I will never reach the master perfection which many of the people on the forum have, but trying to do the best one can and being among all these gentle people is certainly a big gain for me.
Patrick
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Hi all,
Before throwing the SE5a in the garbage can, I again tried fixing the upper wing. I replaced and redid all the pre-rigging of the wings first. As almost all the struts were broken, I cut off the original ends (if they were still there, because most of them were glued in the original holes and broken off there) of the struts and tried to insert brass tubes in it (as my friend Bud suggested). Sometimes I was unable to find the original marks were the struts should be glued in. So, little by little, I got the upper wing installed, though not well aligned. I was totally discouraged and the rigging was a massacre. So there’s were I am at the moment. It’s been the Via Dolorosa for me, but it is to nice a kit and a plane to throw away. I will do the rigging of the u/c and ailerons and the painting of the wheels and install the Lewis gun on the upper wing and clean up a bit the awfull mess I made. Later on I might start another tripe because I really like the plane very much – that is if I decide to continue my struggle against my poor eyesight, because I will ruine kit after kit if I don’t get a solution.
Thank you for stopping by.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_01_zpscba6b48a.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_03_zps6ff8a4ea.jpg)
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Patrick,
That looks like a pretty respectable recovery to me; what sort of brass tube did you use for the struts, it looks like a product called "Strutz" that I've used before? I also really like the colour on the exhaust, what paint(s) did you use there? I'd finish up the repairs as you stated and add Her to the display shelf!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thank you Lance, you are to kind! I used what I had, so its a hollow brass tube of 0,4 mm (griffon). The struts are so tiny and I drilled a 0,4mm hole and pressed the tubes in it. The exaust is painted with Tamiya "Hull Red" (Tamiya XF9). I'll post a photo later to show you how bad the aligment is. Anyway thank you Lance for the encouragement.
Kind regards
Patrick
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I agree with Lance, great work on the fixes Patrick. I think she looks great!
Mark
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Thank you so much Mark! Here is what she really looks like :
O dear!
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_05_zpsaa60604e.jpg)
O dear!
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_06_zps710dbea4.jpg)
O dear!
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5aB__07_zps985cb367.jpg)
Thank you friends for giving me hope.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Patrick,
First and foremost I admire your perseverance in going back and repairing this one! I had a similar accident with my Roden SE and gave up and scrapped it for parts! So even if the alignment is off a little you have done well and learned that it is possible to overcome adversity! Please keep modeling as your work is getting better all of the time!
RAGIII
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Dear Rick,
Thank you my friend for your continued encouragements and your much appreciated advice. I learned a lot from you already. It wasn't much of a joy at first to continue were I had stopped, more even take a few steps backwards. But I wanted so much finish it in whatever state, and I am glad I did. Rigging errors I made on this one, I hope I will not make again on future models, so I hope she will prove to be a new good learning experience. Thank you my friend!
Kind regards
Patrick
-
Hello Patrick:
I certainly feel your pain with the SE5! Your perseverance to continue on is noteworthy and you are doing a respectable job of patching it up. It may not be perfect, but; no model is. This will be one you can look at with admiration and say that you learned a lot from it. In spite of it's "Easy" single seat appearance, it is a very difficult model and a more difficult model to rig. My ruined Gotha is still on the shelf. I scavange parts off of it and when I do another one it will be the basis for that. Don't toss your parts, hang on to them and if and when you decide to do another SE5 you will have this experience to build on and you will be surprised at how easy it really is. Get a few more under your belt and you will do just fine.
Good luck Patrick
Best
Mark
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Patrick, I applaud you for your perseverance! I don't think the SE5 looks bad at all,
certainly salvageable and you have done well doing just that. My advice, for what
it's worth is to work on it as long as you feel good about it...there are many good things
you have done with it already, so please don't junk it. Even if you don't want to continue,
stick the prop and wheels on and put it up on your model shelf. It has taught you many
things and you will see how you have advanced as a modeller. A bit rambley, but hopefully
it will encourage you, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Dear Patrick,
I would want to echo the words and sentiments of Ernie, Mark and Rick. Ours can be a hobby of great frustration and we probably all have our examples of things that didn't go as planned. In my case the worst example relates to a 1/350 scale HMS Hood which cost me a lot of money and I have managed to effect significant warping to the bow.
But look back on what you have achieved ahead of the problems. It's a learning experience and through this wonderful forum you will receive the support of friends and modellers at all levels of ability.
Best wishes
Nigel
-
Dear Mark, Ernie and Nigel,
As usual you are there to give courage, advice and hope. Even if in the future I should stop doing this lovely hobby because of age, I would never leave the forum, because I never had so many friends in such a short time, even without seeing them and being far far away. But I will finish the SE5a the best I can and then concentrate on the Nieuport (still waiting for the chair but I'm patient). And I know all of you will be there again to support and advice me. And that is 50% of my hobby, the contact with you all.
Kind regards and THANK YOU
Patrick
-
Patrick, I'm so glad that you've chosen to repair this one. Even if you are unsatisfied with the final results, the lessons you will have learned are invaluable. Because of the size of 1/32 scale kits, you still can "persuade" the wings into alignment by adjusting some of the rigging to gently nudge the wings in the opposite direction. I've done this with 1/48 scale kits and the physics of doing this in a smaller scale are more challenging. But even if you choose to just leave it as it is, your perseverance is to be commended.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Dear Bud,
Thank you once again for your support and advice. I will first try to finish the old lady and then maybe correct a little bit the alignment (if possible). Your continued friendship means a lot to me!
Kind regards
Patrick
-
Patrick, that is a very beautiful model, mate. I've just enjoyed reading through the thread and I winced when I read about the wing. I knocked my J.1 when trying to fit the top wing and destroyed it by trying to catch it before it hit the ground, so I know exactly how you felt! Unlike you, I didn't have the heart to try to fix all the damage I caused.
But you did a magnificent job of rescuing the build, mate. It would have been a pity to waste the paint job you'd done.
Excellent work.
Dal.
-
Those are very kind words Dal, thank you so much my friend. I'll try to finish it. I passed the last days for hours rigging it. As Mark said it is quit a model to put the rigging on. I'm glad you like the painting (very damaged now). It was my very first attempt with an airbrush. I will look at it as it came out of very heavy combats.
Kind regards and thank you!
Patrick
-
Dear friends,
I finally “finished” the old lady who gave me so much trouble and misery. She only needs still a bit of cleaning up. The WnW SE5a is a great kit, but needs a more experieced modeler than I am. Difficult rigging which I have to improve a lot and acquiring a better technique to mount the upper wing and a new pair of eyes. But I’m glad I didn’t give up although the final result is quite disappointing. Thank you for stopping by.
Kind regards
Patrick
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_09_zps6104789d.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_11_zpsa046e77a.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_12_zps838960e3.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_13_zpse184a3c6.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_17_zps83f4c3a2.jpg)
(http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y385/IFF1418/sized_SE5a_B_20_zps94186807.jpg)
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Patrick ..............
Despite all your recent protestations this really does look to be a sweet build. And yes I know you know where the faults are, but most other folk just soak it up in it's entirety. This is where all your efforts and diligence shines through, and elevates it into the "most admirable" class.
Huzzahs from this corner ............. well done mate.
-
Hi Andi,
Thank you so much for your kind comment (to kind?). I saw your portret a while ago and it shows a very gentle and generous man. And that is what I read in your comment. Anyway it is very much appreciated and gives me a lot of courage. Thank you my friend!
Kind regards
Patrick
-
Patrick,
Like I said before your Perseverance has paid off! Your color choice is excellent and the overall effect is pleasing to the eye. Like we all have said, this one was a huge learning curve for you and you have done well! Be proud of your SE and enjoy your next build!
RAGIII
-
I certainly will Rick. I think if I had been all on my own I would never had the perseverance to continue and I may say that thanks to this wonderful forum and the friends I made I have hope to improve my skills. And you are certainly the friend who continued to support me. Thank you again for that!
Kind regards
Patrick
-
Looks really good Patrick, especially considering the trauma she has experienced. :D Remember, the real ones got banged up and had to be put back together too, and I imagine the fit tolerances were fairly generous back then. ;D You have done an admirable job in a difficult situation, and produced a lovely model of an iconic fighter. I hope mine looks as good when I get around to it! :)
Cheers,
Bob
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Well done, Patrick!
If you keep this up you will rigging FE2.b's in your sleep! ;D
Great job ;)
vB
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Hello Bob, when I look at all the beautiful skillful builds you did so far, I wouldn't be surprised if you will present us a real stunner SE5a. When I look at your wonderful Camel of Jan Olieslagers (which has a special meaning to me) I am pretty sure of that. But it is so nice to hear all these kind words of all this formidable modelers, that's for sure. Thank you again!
Kind regards
Patrick
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There's not too much that I can see wrong with this beautiful model Patrick, you worked your way through all the trials and tribulations and ended up with a very nice looking Se.5a, this is a credit to you and puts you in good stead for your next build, well done.
Des.
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Well done Patrick! Despite the trials and tribulations you've really turned this round. There's certainly a lesson I can learn from this.
Best wishes
Nigel
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Hello Patrick:
You certainly did an admirable job on this model. I know how frustrating it can be, but you did it and it looks pretty darned good to boot! Hopefully with your new glasses your next build will be less traumatic and more enjoyable. You have to admit a certain sense of accomplishment when you look at it though don't you?
I like your color choice and it appears as if there is subtle weathering along the rib taping. Nicely done.
Best
Mark
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Just read this thread through from the beginning. With all the problems you've had I think you've done a great job to finish up with a model that looks this good. A tip of the hat to you for your patience and perseverence and if I ever move up to 1/32 I hope my first attempt looks this good.
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Congratulations Patrick, for a first 1/32 scale model, that is a stunner, she looks superb, like all the guys on the forum have said the next build will a bit easier, but if you need any help, just ask, always remember the only silly question is the one you don't ask.
Cheers
Pete.
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Hello Bob(vB) , Des, Nigel, Mark and Ken,
Thank you all for your kind words and comments and your continued support!
Bob : the rigging has already improved with your great eyelets!
Des : these are so kind words coming from the master modeler!
Nigel : I'm sure that you would have done the same and had continued dispite the problems!
Mark: Indeed I'm very pleased to have it finished. Your build was certainly a class higher than mine. I'm sorry but the weathering was not intential but caused by the fact that I had to manipulate the model so often. Maybe a new method of weathering? I now acquired some weathering material and I could have a go from now on.
Ken : Looking at your Fokker Tripe tells me that if you would build a WnW kit it would certainly be magnificent!
Kind regards
Patrick
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I think she looks great, Patrick, especially considering she was your first effort. You're right when you say this kit is for a more advanced modeler. I have 7 WNW kits in my stash and it wasn't until I got the Triplane just a couple weeks ago that I found the courage to start any of them. The Tripe looks to be a far simpler build than the SE and will give you less grief. I'm proud of you for sticking with this one and finishing her in spite of the challenges she presented.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello Pete and Bud,
Thank you so much my friends. I'm so glad to see that a lot of people give such a support to an old newbie.
Pete : I will certainly have a lot of questions left and it is so gentle of you. Thank you!
Bud : You have supported me since my entering the forum. I appreciate very much. I bought the WnW kits of the SE5a and Sopwith Tripe before I became a member on the forum. I had found a review of a WnW kit on the web and found out that they were the best on the market. I knew nothing about WW1 aircrafts and even less about engines, but as I studied the WW1 as a whole, I was very interested in the war in the air. It wasn't after a certain period that I understood that the SE5a was way to difficult for me. Then I started the Tripe which was a bit easier and finished it last month (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2488.0). Now I started the Nieuport 28c and am waiting for a seat by Ron) so I had some time to work again on the SE5a.
Thank you Pete and Bud
Kind regards
Patrick
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Good for you for persevering, Patrick! That's got to be a great sense of accomplishment. Great looking work.
Lindsay
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Hi Lindsay,
Thank you very much for your continued support. It is so much appreciated and certainly helps to persevere!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Patrick,
Despite all your earlier concerns and challenges you now have two very nice 1:32 WWI aircraft models completed and you've started a third 8)................................ I"d say you have arrived! Welcome to the world of WWI Aircraft Models and best luck with the Nieuport 28 Build. I'll be following your progress closely as it's very near to being my next one as well.
Cheers,
Lance
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Thank you so much Lance for your kind comments and support. I think I'm rather slow, so it might well be that very soon you will pass me by. Anyway we have some wonderful build logs of our modeler friends. I will certainly need them beside me.
Kind regards
Patrick
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Just remember Patrick, there is no time limit on a model, 'it takes as long as it takes', in fact as you build more and more models you could find they take longer to build, because you are trying to improve on and better the one you did before.
Cheers
Pete.
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You are so right Pete. I know that I will take my time for the Nieuport and I hope this will show in the build. I was always in a hurry in my professional life, fighting against deadlines, but now there are no deadlines any more. But my days are filled all the same with reading, research of WW1 (and this seems more and more an unending story), the forum which has taken a remarkable place in my life and the build itself.
Thank you for your nice comment!
Kind regards
Patrick