forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: bbrockel on April 16, 2013, 11:00:22 AM
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I took the plunge and deided on the WnW Albatros D.Va for my fist large scale build. How did I decide?? A coin toss helped a lot. Pluss I really like one of the optional paint schemes shown on WnW web site. A nice blue and green paint scheme that looks like an easy masking/painting job. I'll start my build log when the kit arrives.
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Nice choice! I'm just finishing one now, also my first large scale WW1 build since I was a kid. Enjoy the build!
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Thanks Vickers. I'll be sure to revisit your build log when the kit arrives. BTW, beautiful work on your Albatros. I really liked the wood texture on the fuselage and you explination of how you achieved the results. Thanks for the tutorial.
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Im going to enjoy watching your progress. Keep us updated....someday I'll build again too......
Steve
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Working on the Snipe now ....................... the D.Va is next. Congratulations on your choice!
Will ;)
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Bob,
Looking forward to seeing your first progress my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Hi Bob,
Lovely choice of subject, the thing to watch out for with the WnW DV and DVa is the fit of the bulkheads, keep the slots in the fusilage sides and the edges of the bulkheads free of paint because the bulkheads are a very precise fit and even a small amount of paint will mean when you come to sew up the fusilage you will have some horrible gaps, apart from that it is a great kit, good luck with the build and look forward to seeing some progress photos.
Cheers
Pete.
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I'll second what Pete has written. It's critical to follow his advice. Other than that, it's a great choice for your first build.
Cheers,
Chris
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I'll second and third Pete and Chris's comments Bob, a magnificent Kit, the only pitfall(s) being the "zero clearance" bulkhead fittings. Looking forward to following your progress.
Cheers,
Lance
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I test fit each bulkhead one at a time to ensure everything fits.
I'm currently doing the D.Va albeit a different scheme, I found I didn't need to worry about the fuselage runners as long as I ensured the edges of the bulheads were sanded clean. What is slightly annoying are the ejector pin marks all along the mating edge of the fuselage, which means I will have to fill the entire seam.
Also watch out for the wing dihedral. Effectively top wing flat bottom wing pointing up. Oh and I found that with the undercarriage on there was definitely a lean going on. Just rig the undercarriage with mono and pull one side tighter than the other and Robert is your Mothers Brother.
Great kit with so many schemes to choose from, enjoy.
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Never too many Albatros builds for me,
A tip for the lower wing Dihedral issue is to open up the slots in the fuselge sides at the top inner edge and carefully bend up the locating stubs on the lower wings. chamfering the edges and thinning the upper side of the locating stub can help too. It's a matter of fiddle and diddle till you are happy with the fit.
Keith
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It's great that you all took the time to impart your well wishes and tips, Pete and Keith. I feel right at home here. Now if the darn thing would just get here!
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It's great that you all took the time to impart your well wishes and tips, Pete and Keith. I feel right at home here. Now if the darn thing would just get here!
My first kit took about a month and a half ................. was in customs for the longest time. My next (second) kit took less than a couple weeks, so can't say what to expect on a regular basis, but the kits are well worth waiting for!!
Will
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Good luck with your build Bob and i hope your kit arrives soon!
michael
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What gcn said about the undercarriage. This kit badly needs a white metal replacement set. I now there's such a set available for the Roden DIII but I've never checked whether thay are the same. Someone here may know!
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The struts for the Roden kit are done by Scale Aircraft Conversions. They go for around $15US
Steve
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WOO HOO!!! The Albatrtos arrived yesterday from WnW New Zealand. Very quick service, I might add. Thank you WnW. I'm posting pics of the freshly opened box to show how nicely the parts were packaged. And give other newbies a step-by-step from the very start. Should have let the lights warm up a little before snapping photos, that's what cause the 'beigh' look to all the photos. Next time. ;) Tomorrow I hope to go to my local hobby shop and start buying the paints necessary to begin the build. The instructions have a nice list of recommended Tamiya paints for each part. Based on what I've read here over the past couple of weeks, I'm going to start with a light grey undercoat.
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Yay playtime ;D
K
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Enjoy!! All I've seen points to a great build. Its yet another one in my stash....
Steve
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Enjoy...
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I washed all the parts in warm , soapy water last night to get rid of the releasing agent. Getting ready to start the build. I want to start with the engine. My question is should all the parts be primed on the sprues prior to removing them? I bough a can of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer when I bought the other paints according to the Albatros instruction book. Will the primer cause any problems with the acrylic paints?
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I bough a can of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer when I bought the other paints according to the Albatros instruction book. Will the primer cause any problems with the acrylic paints?
Nope
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Bo, short and sweet answer. I like it. Thanks.
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Bo, short and sweet answer. I like it. Thanks.
:)
Assuming of course you are putting the acrylic paints OVER the primer :)
In general, the only time you have to worry is putting lacquer based paint over (just about anything else). You can put oils over acrylic and vice versa (though acrylics don't stick very well to glossy oil based enamel).
Note that you can thin Tamiya acrylics with Lacquer thinner; this makes them "hotter" and seems to improve adhesion to bare plastic. I use Tamiya NATO black like this as a primer. Once it cures it is quite tough, definitely passes the fingernail test...
Good luck!
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Thank you Bo. I appreciate any tips. I will be using Tamiya acrylics over the primer.
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The spray works fine but spreads the paint quite fast. For some smaller parts like engine subassemblies it is simply too much.
Get some surfacer in a bottle and try to spray it with an airbrush.
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The spray works fine but spreads the paint quite fast. For some smaller parts like engine subassemblies it is simply too much.
Get some surfacer in a bottle and try to spray it with an airbrush.
yep I agree; btw 'surfacer' = Mr. Surfacer 1000 (or 1200). Mr Surfacer 500 is too thick to spray in an airbrush. thin it out with lacquer thinner to avoid "spider webs" when spraying. The Tamiya rattle can is definitely nice for large parts though (fuselages, wings etc)
Oh, and spray that stuff outside or in a well ventilated area w/ mask!
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There is many various surfacers, e.g. the vallejo. It is drying much slower (min 24hr)and smells much less than the mr. surfacer.
http://taleofpainters.blogspot.cz/2012/02/review-vallejo-surface-primer.html
On the other hand vallejo requires to be airbrushed in more very thin layers as it is drying slowly, compared the mr. surfacer is almost idiot proof.
Anytime, even when airbrushing very small stuff with "odourless" colors, work in a well ventilated area with mask!
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Thank you Jan for the link. Interesting game blog. Weather wasn't too bad yesterday, so I went outside to spray the parts. I haven't fired up the airbrush for some time now and I need to practice on some old HO scale boxcars I have on hand before airbrushing the 'good stuff'.
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BO, when thinning Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner, if you have excess thinned paint saved in a separate bottle, does the lac. thinner cause the paint to thicken to a point that it can't be used at a later time?
Will
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I think you have all explained the result I'm seeing when I attempted to paind a piece of the engine sub assembly. Instead of airbrushing, I tried to brush the black semi-gloss Tamiya paint onto the piece. The result was very bad adhesion of the paint to the surface being painted. Rather than adding more paint, I stopped and will wait for my spray boot to arrive later this month. Glad it was only one small piece. I can clean it up with Pine-Sol or Scale Master paint remover with out harming the plastic. Live and learn. Thanks for the tips all.
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I think you have all explained the result I'm seeing when I attempted to paind a piece of the engine sub assembly. Instead of airbrushing, I tried to brush the black semi-gloss Tamiya paint onto the piece. The result was very bad adhesion of the paint to the surface being painted. Rather than adding more paint, I stopped and will wait for my spray boot to arrive later this month. Glad it was only one small piece. I can clean it up with Pine-Sol or Scale Master paint remover with out harming the plastic. Live and learn. Thanks for the tips all.
Try to remove with regular spirit (ethanol).
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Will -- tightly sealed in a glass container the LT thinned paint should keep for a while, though the pigment will settle and you'll need to restir. I usually only mix up very small batches though.
Bbrockel-- isopropyl alcohol also works beautifully for removing Tamiya acrylics. Bonus hint: You can also use it to feather and blend already dry paint.
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Will -- tightly sealed in a glass container the LT thinned paint should keep for a while, though the pigment will settle and you'll need to restir. I usually only mix up very small batches though.
Bbrockel-- isopropyl alcohol also works beautifully for removing Tamiya acrylics. Bonus hint: You can also use it to feather and blend already dry paint.
I keep colors thinned for airbrushing in syringes with hypodermic needles on. The needles are great to easily remove remaining paint from an airbrush cup.
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Thank you Bo and Jan for the great tips. Bo - as it turns out, I'm fresh out of Pine-Sol, but I do have alcohol on hand. Will give that a try.
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Another tip Bob, don't use pure black, use NATO black or a very dark black/grey, cos pure black for some reason looks out of scale.
Cheers
Pete.
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Thank you Pete. I have all shades of black acrylic from my model railroading - engine black, flat blact, coal black..... I feel like I could open a paint store.