forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on May 23, 2026, 03:40:25 AM
-
Hi all,
While I'm waiting for the MDesign AW FK.3 kit to arrive, I'm working on another model.
It's the older resin cast Oef D.III (Albatros) from Lukgraph (not the later 3D printed kit).
The aircraft is D.III (Oef), Series 253.12 as flown by Oberleutenant in der Reserve Ludwig Hautzmayer, Commanding Officer of Flik 61/J, operating from Ghirano, Italy, during the the
Summer of 1918.
Some details of the cockpit needed modifying to better reflect a Series 253 series aircraft.
The pilot's instrument panel was not a single span panel, but two separate panels (left and right).
The rear of the two machine guns were mounted on a cockpit cross bar.
Also, the pilot's seat was not normally solid wood, but had several large lightening holes
Therefore, I've cut the instrument panel into two panels, added a Brass rod/tube cockpit cross bar for the machine guns.
Also added lightening holes in the pilot's seat.
I've removed the cast hatch panels and cooling louvres from the fuselage.
Kit photo-etch alternative panels fitted with 'Proper Plane' replacement cooling louvres.
Support rods added to flight control surfaces etc,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/header.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fusprep4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fusprep5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep6.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/prep7.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/pit1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/pit2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/bar2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/bar3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/seat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/seatholes.jpg)
-
Nice start on this one Mike :)
It's one of the few 1/32 kits I own (in the alternative Polish boxing) I did wonder about the cockpit and briefly considered just lobbing a pilot in to fill the space and distract from the errors, but think your way is a better option so following along with interest
Paul
-
I have this one on the shelf to do at some point so I'm following with interest. I'm definitely going to put a pilot figure in it to hide the incorrect cockpit (much of it is wrong), unlike Paul I'm lazy! I'll just correct the instrument panel.
The big thing that's putting me off doing this one is removing the rib tapes. Not only are they overdone the kit IMO, there weren't any rib tapes on the Oeffag DIII anyway so they should be removed completely. Koloman Mayrhofer established this in his research for his DIII replica builds - they stitched the wing fabric directly to the ribs without rib tapes, see below:
-
I have this one on the shelf to do at some point so I'm following with interest. I'm definitely going to put a pilot figure in it to hide the incorrect cockpit (much of it is wrong), unlike Paul I'm lazy! I'll just correct the instrument panel.
The big thing that's putting me off doing this one is removing the rib tapes. Not only are they overdone the kit IMO, there weren't any rib tapes on the Oeffag DIII anyway so they should be removed completely. Koloman Mayrhofer established this in his research for his DIII replica builds - they stitched the wing fabric directly to the ribs without rib tapes, see below:
Hi Nigel,
Yes removing the cast rib tapes should be straight forward enough.
Representing the stitching could be a the problem though - we'll see,
Mike
-
Representing the stitching could be a the problem though - we'll see,
That's another thing that's been putting me off doing this one! I might try some of the Archer stitching transfers now these are available again, although none of them are quite right. However, I plan to do a scheme that uses the sworl camo on the upper surfaces so they would barely be visible on that.....
The decals are very transparent in this kit FWIW, the white in particular is not very opaque.
-
Yet again working on a less than stellar kit with lots of issues. I am certain you will do it More than Justice!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Some progress on the Albatros.
This is the original resin cast model from Lukgraph.
I've modified as much as I could to make the cockpit a series 253 version (kit is I think a series 153 version cockpit).
The fuselage is painted ready for applying external wood effect.
I've also removed most of the flight surface rib tapes.
As Nigel points out, these aircraft had the linen covering stitched directly to the wings, so no rib tapes as such,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/beltson.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/decs1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/decs2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/pumppipe.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/throttle.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/triggers.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fuspaint.jpg)
-
Nice progress on this one Mike. I think the cockpit looks pretty good, splitting the instrument panel makes a big difference and makes it look like a 253 series.
How big of a job was removing the rib tapes? This is the one thing that keeps me putting off doing this....
Also, did you do anything about those annoying three "faux" cooling slots on the nose? LukGraph cast them as raised lines instead of making them cooling slots.
There's so many annoying little things wrong with this kit that could easily have been corrected.
-
Nice progress on this one Mike. I think the cockpit looks pretty good, splitting the instrument panel makes a big difference and makes it look like a 253 series.
How big of a job was removing the rib tapes? This is the one thing that keeps me putting off doing this....
Also, did you do anything about those annoying three "faux" cooling slots on the nose? LukGraph cast them as raised lines instead of making them cooling slots.
There's so many annoying little things wrong with this kit that could easily have been corrected.
Hi Nigel,
They needed sanding off as then drilling out.
Also the join seam down the centre of the nose cowl needs reducing or removing.
Photographs of the 253 series aircraft show a very faint line that could be that joint seam,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/nose.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/slots.jpg)
-
I guess that's the right way to deal with those slots. Sadly precision drilling isn't one of my strengths.... :(
Thanks for the heads up on the join line.
-
Hi all,
The nose cowl required three modifications.
When offered up to the joined fuselage halves, the outer edges of the nose cowl overlapped the edges of the fuselage.
Therefore, those edges were sanded until they aligned to the fuselage edges.
The joint seam down the centre of the nose cowl is printed as raised, when it was a shallow joint with fasteners (thanks Bertl for the heads up).
The vertical seam/joint running down the centre of the nose cowl was sanded away.
The joint line was scribed into the cowl.
The five cooling slots at the bottom, centre of the nose cowl were printed as raised ridges, not as slots.
A rectangle was cut out of the nose cowl to remove the five raised cooling 'slots.
A strip of masking tape was applied to the inside of the nose cowl to cover the opening.
Thin strips of plastic rod were cut to length then located into the opening and held in position on the masking tape.
The strips were then secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
The masking tape strip was removed and the nose cowl painted,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/cowljoint.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/slots.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/cowlslots.jpg)
-
Thanks for that Mike, really helpful! I think I can manage those cooling slots now.
-
Hi all,
I've applied light plywood effect by brushing Windsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd (Raw Sienna) oil paint over the fuselage, fin and tail skid.
Once fully dry, used a 1.0 mm Rosie Riveter to represent the panel nail lines.
I then brushed Flory Models dark dirt wash wash along the nail lines then wiped off the excess.
Finally sealed the finish with Tamiya Semi-Gloss (X35) clear coat.
Now it's onto adding the fuselage photo-etch parts,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/nails.jpg)
-
The nail heads - how well does that work with this resin material using the riveter, Mike?
Servus
Bertl
-
The nail heads - how well does that work with this resin material using the riveter, Mike?
Servus
Bertl
Hi Bertl,
OK really.
Just have to be careful you don't apply too much pressure as the cast resin is quiet soft compared to plastic.
Other than that, no problem,
Mike
-
I'm going to get me one of those riveter tools seeing how well it's worked on this build and on Bertl's Albatros builds.
-
Hi all,
The basic fuselage is more or less completed.
The photo-etch parts have been painted and added.
Weathered with Flory Models dark dirt wash and dry brushing with Mr. Color Super Metallic 2 (203).
Now it's onto the engine,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fusdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fusdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fusdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/fusdone4.jpg)
-
That looks superb Mike, the overall finish is fantastic. The wood and the nail runs look particularly impressive.
-
Hi all,
The kit supplied engine exhaust pipes are flattened along their entire length.
However, most photographs of the aircraft show the exhaust pipes at the engine end being flattened, but then changing to tubular shape at their outer ends.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/exhaust.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/exhaust1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/exhaust2.jpg)
The replacement exhaust pipes were made as follows:
File or sand away the locating stub on the engine side of the exhaust pipe flanges.
Carefully cut away the exhaust pipes close to the flange.
Using thin CA adhesive, secure each flange centrally onto the exhaust outlets of the engine cylinders.
Cut a 10 mm length of 2.0 mm diameter Brass tube, such as ?Albion Alloy?s? (MBT20) or similar.
Using flat pliers, carefully flatten one end of the tube and reduce the flattening outboard to approximately half way along.
The bore of the flattened end should be approximately 0.5 mm wide.
Cut a length of 0.5 mm diameter Brass rod, such as that from ?Albion Alloy?s? or similar.
Insert the rod centrally into the flattened end of the tube, leaving approximately 4 mm protruding.
Secure the rod in the tube using either thicker, slow setting CA adhesive or soft solder the rod in the tube.
Drill a hole of 0.5 mm diameter centrally into an exhaust flange.
Test fit the exhaust pipe into the engine, making sure it?s 90 degrees to the engine when viewed from above and from the front.
Repeat the procedure to create the remaining five exhaust pipes.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/exhaust3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/exhaust4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/exhaust5.jpg)
-
Super duper work, Mike!
Carry on, Sir!
BB
-
The kit supplied engine exhaust pipes are flattened along their entire length.
However, most photographs of the aircraft show the exhaust pipes at the engine end being flattened, but then changing to tubular shape at their outer ends.
No photograph I've ever seen shows these flattened exhaust pipes, I've no idea where LukGraph got the idea for these from. It was pointed out to them during the development of the kit but for some reason they ignored the input (like several other suggestions to make this model more accurate). Oh well, you've done a great job correcting this and explained how to do it.
I'm so glad you built this kit before I did..... :)
-
The nail heads - how well does that work with this resin material using the riveter, Mike?
Servus
Bertl
Hi Bertl,
OK really.
Just have to be careful you don't apply too much pressure as the cast resin is quiet soft compared to plastic.
Other than that, no problem,
Mike
Thanks, Mike, for the explanation. I was actually worried that the material would be too hard to attach the rows of nails neatly. But I can see how beautifully and precisely they're engraved on your model.
By the way, cool idea with the exhaust pipes.
Servus
Bertl
-
................ I'm so glad you built this kit before I did..... :)
Me too 8)
-
The kit supplied engine exhaust pipes are flattened along their entire length.
However, most photographs of the aircraft show the exhaust pipes at the engine end being flattened, but then changing to tubular shape at their outer ends.
No photograph I've ever seen shows these flattened exhaust pipes, I've no idea where LukGraph got the idea for these from. It was pointed out to them during the development of the kit but for some reason they ignored the input (like several other suggestions to make this model more accurate). Oh well, you've done a great job correcting this and explained how to do it.
I'm so glad you built this kit before I did..... :)
Hi Nigel,
Probably this render.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/engall.jpg)
Not known for taking suggestions.
I pointed out the resin cast BE2c front end looked more like the RE8.
Ignored, so I modified the kit,
Mike
-
Hi all,
Engine finished.
Always tricky painting a fully detailed 3D printed engine.
The paints used were Tamiya, Mr. Metal Color, MRP and Alclad.
The only mods to the engine were the twelve ignition leads and the pipe from the valve at the rear of the camshaft cover.
I also drilled out the propeller shaft locating hole to 2.0 mm and fitted a Brass tube.
The shaft of the kit supplied propeller was smaller in diameter, so a sloppy fit.
The propeller was drilled out to.
Next up is fitting the engine into the fuselage then the nose cowl,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/engdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/engdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/engdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/engdone4.jpg)
-
Nice work on the engine. Quite a lot of build lines evident (although they won't really be seen). I think the quality of the 3D printing seems to have improved further since this kit....
-
Hi all,
Engine fitted including the replacement exhaust pipes and nose cowl.
Machine gun blast tubes replaced with blackened 0.8 mm diameter Brass tube.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/front.jpg)
-
Those exhausts look great. I wasn't going to bother replacing mine but after seeing these I absolutely have to!
-
Hi all,
Just a couple of updates.
The tail skid is fitted.
Also, 0.8 mm diameter Brass tube was bent to represent the aileron operating levers, which are not supplied in the kit.
Now its onto painting the flight surfaces,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/tailskid.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/ailhinges.jpg)
-
Hi all,
The kit supplies two 3D printed propellers, one being for the 253 series aircraft.
However, the manufacturer of the propeller is not stated.
The kit does not supply decals for the two supplied propellers.
The only photographs I've found that show what appear to be the propeller logos from manufacturers Jaray Wein and Lohner Werke.
These decals are in the LF Models Austro-Hungarian labels (C3205) set.
As I was unsure of manufacturer of he 253 series propellers, I opted to use the Lohner Werke logo.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/propdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/proplogo1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/proplogo2.jpg)
-
It'll be JarayWien won't it? Wien being Vienna.
Although I'm outside just now, so no refs to hand.
Sandy
-
Hi Mike,
I can send you two of these decals if you need them:
Knoller-Jaray Wien (Vienna)
(https://up.picr.de/51115753nc.jpg)
That's the propeller from Koloman Mayrhofer's replica.
(https://up.picr.de/51115617un.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/51115622jr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Bertl, these prop decals look very inviting.
I've got a few 1/32 AH builds in the pipeline, might I ask who makes them and who sells them?
Many thanks
Sandy
-
Bertl, these prop decals look very inviting.
I've got a few 1/32 AH builds in the pipeline, might I ask who makes them and who sells them?
Many thanks
Sandy
Hi Sandy,
I got these decals from LF Models many years ago.
I can't say anything negative about it, except that the details and the sharpness of the print are nowhere near as good as Wingnut Wings decals.
It's clearly visible under a magnifying glass, but it's not really noticeable on the propeller.
Here's the link to LF Models:
(Item C3205)
https://www.lfmodels.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_31_65
Servus
Bertl
-
Thanks, Bertl
I'll explore that with interest
Cheers!
Sandy
-
Hi Bertl and Sandy,
Thanks Bertl for the decal offer, but I have that set from LF Models, which I used on the propeller.
Yes the build by Koloman Mayrhofer does indeed have a Knoller-Jaray Wein propeller fitted.
Possibly that particular 253 series aircraft had that propeller type.
The kit supplies two different propellers, one for a 153 series aircraft and the other for a 253 series aircraft.
The 153 series propeller looks to be a Knoller-Jaray Wein type, but the other propeller is not.
The Windsock Data File No:19 - Albatros D.III (Oef) (P.M. Grosz) has photographs of 253 series aircraft with propellers that appear to be neither of those in the kit.
The Wotan Type 1 (3202) propeller from LF Models seems a fairly good match to the shape of those photographs, although Wotan propellers were probably not actually used.
As usual with WW1 aircraft, uncertainty exists and this time which propeller type is needed for my particular aircraft model.
So, I've decided to change the propeller and use the LF Models propeller (I have one in my stash), but with Knoller-Jaray Wein logos,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/aircraft.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/propeller253series.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/propeller253.jpg)
-
Beautiful work Mike.
Warren D.
-
Hi all,
The basic flight surfaces are done.
Airbrush base coated with MRP Khaki Green 3/G3 (MRP-333)
Masked off internal structures with 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 mm strips of masking tape.
Airbrushed first coat of MRP Clear Doped Linen (MRP-256)
Masking removed.
Airbrushed final coat of MRP Clear Doped Linen (MRP-256) to fade back the internal structures.
Aviattic Off White on Linen (ATT32241) decal applied to all surfaces.
Airbrushed a sealing coat of Tamiya Semi-Gloss (X35).
Kit decals not used for crosses as they are translucent and a bit fragile.
Instead I cut and used masks to airbrush the crosses with MRP Night Camouflage WW1 (MRP-255).
Now it's onto photo-etch parts on the wings before assembly and weathering starts,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/undercoat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/lowcoat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/tpcoat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/ailcoat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/elevcoat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/rudcoat.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/crosses.jpg)
-
Wow, great work!
-
Hi all,
Just a few of updates.
The photo-etch access panels on the lower wing fitted.
Also the radiator brackets at the rear of the radiator on the top and underside of the upper wing.access
The rudder, tailplanes, elevator and ailerons fitted.
Also painted the red stripe across the fin and rudder.
Next step is to weather the flight surfaces,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/ailson.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/OEFFAG/stripe.jpg)
-
Marvelous work, Mike.
Keep those updates coming.
Cheers,
BB