forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on November 05, 2025, 10:33:31 AM
-
Hi all,
The Se5a (Viper) and Spitfire Mk.1a dual build and the Fokker D.VII build are nearing completion.
Therefore I'm starting the next build.
A Roden kit for a French model of a Sopwith 1 1/2 'Strutter' (1.B2), Ser No.326 '7' of French Escadrille SOP226.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/header1b2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/aircraft.jpg)
-
Looking forward to watching your build. I wasn't happy with mine (all my fault) so will probably do another one in the future. Its a great plane / Ian
-
As always I will follow your build. Hopefully I will learn what caused Mine to end in total destruction :-[
RAGIII
-
Very nice choice. CDL or aluminium dope? I understand there's a bit of discussion over that (I'm no expert in this subject though.....)
-
Hi all,
I had read of Aluminium doped Strutters, but was guided by the Windsock data file 34.
It seems at the time of writing, doped Aluminium Strutters had not been known.
From what I now read it seems a few Strutters were supplied to the French for evaluation.
They were considered worth using and licenses were given to allow the French to build the aircraft for their use.
Production was slow to start, as happened with the earlier Caudron aircraft.
The Sopwith aircraft built by the French looked similar to the British counterpart, although it's thought the 1.A2 (reconnaissance) version may have had reinforced wings and different equipment.
However, only the few early models originally supplied British were clear dope linen.
Later French built Strutters were probably Aluminium doped and by the end of 1917, the five coloured dope camouflage was universally adopted.
The camouflaged aircraft had the standard French 5 colours pigmented dope. On the upper wings pigmented dope was used, which is why a difference can sometimes been seen in hue between doped surfaces and the roundels.
If the landing gear, cowlings and plywood coverings were camouflaged, it was with the standard paints.
On the Aluminium doped aircraft, the colouring was apparently:
One coat of clear tautening dope
Two coats of Aluminium tautening dope
One coat of clear finishing dope
That fuselage and wings were similarly doped.
The cowlings left the factory burnished (sometime painted in unit level) and the exposed plywood decking was varnished. The landing gear was either painted silver (most often) or left with the blue -grey protective paint.
As with most WW1 aircraft research, very little can be actually confirmed.
However, given this and the helpful comments elsewhere, I've decided to amend the colouring of this model to that of an all Aluminium doped finish.
Mike
-
Thanks for sharing Mike. I know it's something Dave Hooper was looking in to when he was working on the Strutter schemes for Aviattic. Your choice makes sense given what you say. Looking forward to this.
-
When the idea was first mooted I did up a Roden 1/48th in aluminium, (well, Citadel Mithril Silver IIRC). Had it on the table, I think it was in the GWICC days, at SMW. I remember everyone who commented thought it was a daft idea, back then. Nice to see it becoming more fashionable.
Paul.
-
I'm in for following this one.
-
Hi all,
A few modifications for the Sopwith 1.A2 'Strutter'.
Changes to the airbrakes.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/abmod3.jpg)
Addition of the operating pulley and cable slot for the airbrakes (port underside of fuselage).
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/abpulley3.jpg)
Aileron fitting.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/aniail.jpg)
Elevator angle.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/anielev.jpg)
Rudder fitting.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/anirud.jpg)
Tubular carburettor air intakes.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/carbtubes.jpg)
Gaspatch Vickers machine gun offset to the left on the decking panel (not central)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/deckdone3.jpg)
Gaspatch Lewis machine gun on Scarf mounting.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/scarf.jpg)
Addition of control column rocking shaft and cover.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/rockershaft4.jpg)
Addition of starboard panel between observer and pilot cockpits
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/sidepanel.jpg)
More research to be done for possibly adding the following cockpit details:
Rear of the fuel tank and forward in the observer/gunner cockpit.
Fuel contents indicator.
Compass.
Control rods or cables.
Magneto starter switch.
Clock or watch.
Frame over front of fuel tank.
Tachometer.
Mike
-
Mike,
I'm guessing you are aware of this, but Memorial Flight has a French Strutter restoration with a lot of photos of the inside and outside.
https://www.memorial-flight.com/sopwith-strutter?lang=en
-
Mike,
I'm guessing you are aware of this, but Memorial Flight has a French Strutter restoration with a lot of photos of the inside and outside.
https://www.memorial-flight.com/sopwith-strutter?lang=en
Thanks - yes it's one of my resources for research.
Mike
-
Lovely detail work Mike, those additions really elevate the build. Excellent research as well, very helpful for other modellers.
-
Hi all,
When to two halves of the fuselage are joined together, the joint seam on the underside of the fuselage will be visible in the rear of the observer/gunners cockpit.
This was sorted by fitting a 1.0 mm thick plastic card insert,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/falsefloor.jpg)
-
Hi all,
The fuselage halves and cockpit parts have been painted
Tamiya acrylics used.
Wood and leather effect was made using ?Windsor & Newton? Griffin Alkyd oil paints (Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and Raw Sienna).
Fuselage halves and instrument panel gloss coated ready for decals, which is the next step,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/paint1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/paint2.jpg)
-
That's a beautiful wood effect Mike!
-
WOW.... OUTSTANDING wood efects in british style
-
Lovely wood and canvas!
-
Gorgeous interior work Mike. Lovely wood tones.
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The Aviattic bleached linen effect decals (59 in total) were cut for the inside of the fuselage halves.
Although the weave effect can be seen, a white base coat would have been better than the dark yellow I used.
The main assemblies of the two cockpits have been fitted.
Now it's onto adding cockpit detail (not in the kit) and rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/CDL.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/assemble1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/assemble2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/assemble3.jpg)
-
Beautiful wood effects Mike. Looking forward to seeing more progress.
-
Hi all,
It's been a few weeks since I last posted, mainly as I was abroad on vacation.
However, the fuselage internals are now complete.
Exact information is rare for the cockpit layout of the French 1.B2 version of this aircraft.
Therefore I've added what detail I could and with some artistic license.
General:
Blue crossed bracing wires along the fuselage sides and rear floor section.
Added a false rear floor to hide the visible fuselage joint seam.
Given the access to the open cockpit, the control cables for the rudder, tail skid and elevator should be able to be added later - we'll see.
Rear cockpit
Crossed bracing wires at the rear of the cockpit.
Two bomb cannisters at the front of the cockpit.
Centre pedestal with a rolling map holder between the bomb cannisters.
Forward cross frame under the cockpit decking panel.
Tailplane incidence control cables from the pilot's cockpit.
Pilot's cockpit
Tailplane incidence control cables.
Airbrake control cables.
Trigger cable for the Vickers machine gun.
Engine blip cable from the control column.
Ammunition container under the instrument panel.
Wicker seat with cushion.
Engine throttle and mixture control rods.
Fuel supply pipes from the fuel tank.
Fuel content indicator pipe on the fuel tank.
Pipe to the oil Pulsometer.
Replacement carburettor air intake pipe (metal tube).
Retaining frame at the top, front of the fuel tank.
Rear support frame for the Vickers machine gun.
NOTE
The instrument panel is the British version and not the type fitted to the French 1.B2 aircraft.
The pilot's seat is of the British type and not the metal seat fitted to French aircraft.
Due to the access through the open cockpit area, the control cables for the rudder, tail skid and elevator should be able to be added later - we'll see.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone6.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intdone7.jpg)
-
I think this is one of the Most Impressive Interiors I have seen you do....out of Many!
RAGIII
-
That interior does indeed look absolutely superb, lovely work Mike.
-
Hi all,
A few updates on the 1.B.2 strutter.
I've added basic bomb release panels under the fuselage.
Initially I applied a light grey base colour on the model as I was applying the 'Aviattic' Weave Linen Effect'.
I though that would bring out the Aluminium effect for the linen covering.
However, it didn't so instead I applied 'Alclad' Duraluminium as the base coat.
Even so, the reflective nature of the paint lessens the linen decal effect somewhat.
The French roundels and Escadrille markings were created in Paint Shop Pro software on my PC.
They were then printed using my Canon i-Sensys LBP631 Cw laser printer.
The chick/egg emblem and rudder decals were printed on clear back laser paper and the chick/egg decals were applied twice, as the decal paper is translucent.
The remaining decal were printed on white backed laser paper and carefully cut out for application.
The decals were sealed with a semi-matte clear coat, after which Flory Models dark dirt wash was applied.
The wash is basically to dirty up the aircraft (heavier than I normally apply).
The pilots Vickers and observers Lewis machine guns are also painted.
Next is to rig the control cables for the rudder, tail skid and elevator before the top decking panel if finally fitted,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/washdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/washdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/washdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/washdone4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/gun1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/gun2.jpg)
-
Nice to see some progress here, it's looking really good. Excellent additional details and the finish is really coming together. The decals look great, very impressive work. I'm thinking of getting a new printer that could print the odd decal, it seems like the Canon is a good choice. Do you treat the decals in any way after printing but before application?
-
Nice to see some progress here, it's looking really good. Excellent additional details and the finish is really coming together. The decals look great, very impressive work. I'm thinking of getting a new printer that could print the odd decal, it seems like the Canon is a good choice. Do you treat the decals in any way after printing but before application?
Hi Nigel,
Printing decals on a laser printer is better than from and inkjet printer.
I have both.
Inkjet paper decals need to be sealed with a couple of coats of a clear acrylic varnish, such as Krylon in a spray can.
If not sealed the decal release water tends to bleed out the colours.
The pigment in a Laser printer is sealed in the decal paper by heat, so will not bleed in water.
The correct type of paper must be used for either Laser or Inkjet.
Also the settings in your PC and Laser printer need to be correct.
I use either Hayes of MDP paper in the Laser printer.
My Laser printer is the Canon i-SENSYS IBP631 Cw.
I use it just for decals when needed, as Laser toner cartridges are expensive,
Mike
-
Outstanding work Mike. The decals really look great! I love the Oil stains on the lower fuselage. Very well represented.
RAGIII
-
Solid work Mike. I really appreciate the grimy look to the fabric.
-
Hi Nigel,
Printing decals on a laser printer is better than from and inkjet printer.
I have both.
Inkjet paper decals need to be sealed with a couple of coats of a clear acrylic varnish, such as Krylon in a spray can.
If not sealed the decal release water tends to bleed out the colours.
The pigment in a Laser printer is sealed in the decal paper by heat, so will not bleed in water.
The correct type of paper must be used for either Laser or Inkjet.
Also the settings in your PC and Laser printer need to be correct.
I use either Hayes of MDP paper in the Laser printer.
My Laser printer is the Canon i-SENSYS IBP631 Cw.
I use it just for decals when needed, as Laser toner cartridges are expensive,
Thanks very much Mike, this is very helpful info.
-
Hi all,
I've now added the control cables for the rudder and tail skid.
These were passed through the fuselage from outside and attached to the pilot's rudder bar.
The tailplane incidence control cables were fitted previously.
The cockpit decking panel was then fitted.
Next is the pre-rigging stage for all of the externally visible wires,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intcont1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intcont2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intcont3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/intcont4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/deckpanelon.jpg)
-
That looks fabulous Mike, it's well worth having the control cables going into the rear of the fuselage as you can see quite a way into the rear. Sadly the front cockpit opening is largely hidden by the wing.....
-
That is absolutely superb.
Warren D
-
Hi all,
A few updates.
The underside of the fuselage with the rocking shaft and cover, bomb cassette panels and the airbrake control pulley with cable.
The airbrakes have been fitted.
The 'Proper Plane' Waring and Gillow propeller.
The observers Lewis and mounting with 'EZ' line for the pulley cords.
The wheels with 'Aviattic'' weave effect linen covering.
I've applied wood effect to the interplane and landing struts, but need to paint the metal fittings etc,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/coveron.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/propdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/lewisdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/wheelsdone.jpg)
-
More lovely work Mike. Another question for you - how do you get the Aviattic decals so neatly fitted to the wheel covers? Do you cut out all the openings prior to fitting, or trim the decals when they are in place?
-
Hi Nigel,
I use a ThinnerLine circle cutter.
Similar to that sold by others, such as DSPIAE.
I first cut a paper template to get the correct size.
Then cut the disc from the decal paper.
If the outer wheel covers have extended axle ends, I'll drill the the centre of the disc with an appropriate sized drill.
As most wheel covers have a conical shape, the decal needs to be slit across one side in a shallow wedge.
That allows the decal to conform to the shape and the cut faces to meet.
Then just apply the decal to the wheel cover.
Once set I cut into the opening for the wheel valve.
Then I apply a small amount of Tamiya X20A thinners into the hole and also around the axle ends.
This will melt the decal and conform it as required,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/thinnerline.jpg)
-
Wonderful work Mike. I really like the Lewis gun and ring.
-
Hi all,
More updates.
The landing gear assembly is complete.
The interplane and fuselage cabane struts are done and have slightly larger diameter brass tubes fitted to the strut end locating pegs.
This was done as the locating holes in the wings are larger than the strut pegs.
The underside of the upper wing has been pre-rigged with 22 lines.
Lastly, the upper wing ailerons only have been pre-rigged.
This is for the rear interconnecting control line that will route between the wings and their ailerons.
Next is fitting of the upper wing,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/geardone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/strutsdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/strutsdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/prig1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/prig2.jpg)
-
Then I apply a small amount of Tamiya X20A thinners into the hole and also around the axle ends.
This will melt the decal and conform it as required,
Thanks Mike, good info. I haven't tried X20A with Aviattic decals, I will do next time round.
-
Hi all,
The engine has now been fitted with the Aviattic 3D printed engine cowl.
Many of the French aircraft had a single, larger cooling slot in the lower, front of the engine cowl.
As opposed to the British type, which had two cooling slots at the same location on the engine cowl.
Also, the modified Gaspatch Vickers machine gun was fitted.
Finally, I created a pilot's windscreen, which was off-set to the right of the breach block of the Vickers machine gun,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/engcowl1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/engcowl2.jpg)
-
Then I apply a small amount of Tamiya X20A thinners into the hole and also around the axle ends.
This will melt the decal and conform it as required,
Thanks Mike, good info. I haven't tried X20A with Aviattic decals, I will do next time round.
Hi Nigel,
Take care to not use too much thinners, otherwise it will spread and can damage the decal,
Mike
-
Still more stunning work.
Warren D
-
Hi all,
The upper wing has been fitted.
I found it best to fit the fuselage cabane struts first.
Those struts are rigid when fitted and take much of the load from the upper wing.
Once secured in position, the wings can be flexed slightly to locate and secure the interplane struts.
Now it's onto final rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/cabson.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/interson.jpg)
-
This is looking fabulous Mike. It's a nice kit to build, the cabanes work well and make assembly pretty straightforward, providing you don't get them mixed up (Dave Hooper found this out!).
-
Hi all,
The model is now complete and here is a quick shot.
I will of course post larger and detailed shots of the model once its in the display case.
I'm currently working on the figures to complete the model,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/longshot.jpg)
-
Looks great Mike.
Warren D
-
That looks fab Mike, looking forward to the completed shots.
-
I agree, really excellent job
Alan.
-
Beautiful Results Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Here are the figures.
Both are 'Kellerkind Miniaturen' - French mechanic (54089) and (54112).
Apart from the display case, the model is complete.
I will post the final shots of the build in the coming week.
Thanks for your support and comments throughout this build,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/fig1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/STRUTTER/fig2.jpg)
-
Nice figures Mike!
RAGIII
-
I can relate to the second figure ;D
Nice work, Mike.
BB
-
Hi all,
The completed model shots are now up in the Completed Models page.
Thanks for your support and comments throughout this build,
Mike
-
Beautiful work there. Yep, I'm that second figure. ;)
Warren D