forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: lone modeller on October 27, 2025, 09:59:13 AM
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Evening All,
The Parnall Peto has stalled for the moment so I have started another project: this time I am back in my comfort zone with a real aeroplane, the Short S 80. In 1913 Frank McClean, who was an important member of the Royal Aero Club of Great Brotain and a very wealthy individual, decided that he wanted to fly from Cairo to Khartoum to investigate the Nile cataracts from the air. Given the state of aero technology at the time this was a considerable undertaking which required a purpose built machine. McClean commissioned the Short Brothers to design and build a machine in which he could achieve his aim. The result was the Short S 80 whcih when it was completed in early 1914 was the largest aircraft built in the UK to date. Only one was built so there is no kit of what was a very remarkable aircraft which means that I will have to scratch build one.
The wings and tail plane on the S 80 were large because the warm air in northern Africa would reduce the lift properties of the horizontal flying surfaces. The top wing of a 1/72 scale model is 10 3/4 inches (27cm), - this was cut from 30 thou card, as were the lower wing, tail unit and rudders. There was a tiny elevator mounted in front of the nacelle - this too was cut from 30 thou card: all surfaces were sanded and shaped to aerofoil section and the ribs added from 10 x 20 thou Evergreen strip:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54882022731_576f652834_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBJHie)
The strip was in turn sanded and the trailing edges of the wings and horizontal tail surface scalloped with a round file:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54882242468_498df065b8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBKQBN)
The fuselage nacelle was made from plastic card using 30 thou card for the base and sides: because the front of the nacelle was curved I had to glue one side of the fuselage to the floor and allow to dry before I could curve the plastic sheet around the nose:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54882242488_88fd97ec64_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBKQC9)
The front upper part of the nacelle was curved so this had to be moulded by shaping a male mould from basswood and making a female mould in a sheet of plywood. The male mould looked like this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54882242453_3941d261a4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBKQBx)
The moulding was made form 30 thou card after it had been heated under a grill - I have still to attach it to the nacelle.
The engine was a two row 140 hp double Gnome Omega rotary engine. Unfortunately there are no kits of such an engine available, and I do not have two single 70 hp Gnome Omega kits which I could use to make up one, so I have made a crankcase from a piece of sprue and cylinders from 60 thou plastic rod:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54881152937_77ed57b7c4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBEfJM)
The main floats were made from wood on the original machine. These were constructed by cutting the sides, top and bottom from 30 thou card. I glued some supports from scrap plastic along the edges of the float sides and glued two spacers in the middle to make the box structure stronger. I glued the top and bottom of the float to one side and allowed this to dry before I glued the bottom into place:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54882313775_d19013e3e6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBLcPe)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54882264659_59dbd43326_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rBKXdp)
I will post more on this project when I have made more progress. Until then thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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tiny stuff; following along.
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Lovely work Stephen.
That's a whopping wingspan for something of this era in 'the one true scale' ;)
Paul
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What a fascinating subject, you are educating us as well as amazing us with your scratchbuilding skills! This is a lovely start to what will be a really interesting model.
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Oooooo ! I'm following this one for sure , lovely job on the floats !
Alexis
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Sorry to hear your Peto has stalled, Steve .....
However, this one looks an interesting subject matter and you are off to a good start. Regarding the rotary engine, I do have some 72nd scale engines - would you be able to modify any of these?
Regards
Dave
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Another remarkable aircraft and excellent work, Stephen, but we expect nothing less from you.
I've been only lurking the forum for a long time, but with a four-day weekend, I finally have time again to look at all the wonderful construction projects.
Cheers,
Willem
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Many thanks all for the very kind comments. I hope to be able to post another update shortly as I have finished painting and have assembled much of the nacelle, but am having to have a second attempt at the engine mounting.
Dave - thanks for the offer of the engines - I will follow up in person.
Stephen.
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Evening All,
Life has been getting in the way of modelling recently, and that coupled with my incompetence has caused delays in progress on the Short S80. In short I made the fuselage nacelle too small, the engine too big, and painted the whole the wrong colour! Apart from that I have now reached the stage when I can start on the main assembly....
The engine parts were assembled and painted - the push rods were made from stretched sprue:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54948374231_81d31b782d_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0ODM3NDIzMSwiZSI6MTc2NDE4OTM2MywicyI6IjUyZGIzN2NhMzJjMjY0ZTI3YzMwOTk3ZDgxOGRhYmZiOTY1OTg4OTgiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHAMhB)
The engine was mounted on a frame which was held between the fuselage longerons: I managed to find a photo which showed what the frame looked like and cut one out from a piece of 30 thou card:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54948570198_1e647ddca4_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0ODU3MDE5OCwiZSI6MTc2NDE5MDkxMywicyI6ImViMTJhZGFhZWE4NjdmZDY0YTljNTkwZmY3NjVjMjAyNDAwNTJkMzEiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHBMxm)
After I had moulded the top of the nacelle I glued it into place and applied filler before sanding:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54948629439_e0450e3101_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0ODYyOTQzOSwiZSI6MTc2NDE4OTY1OCwicyI6ImRjYTY3YjJhYzkwOGQ2ZWY3YzQ5NjVhMWIwZmViYmEwYzQ3MTA4MmQiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHC69K)
The interior of the nacelle is based on imagination and assumption as there are no photographs that I can find which show any details, except the steering wheel on the control column. I know that 4 seats were fitted, so I used some resin seats sent to me by @BlackKnight (thanks Fred, they were very useful). The box between the seats is shown on drawings and in photos but I do not know what its purpose was. I also added a fuel/oil tank behind the rear pair of seats - I am not sure if this is realistic but I could not think of where else it could have been located. The longerons were made from 20 x 30 thou strip:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54947501292_8acc610164_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0NzUwMTI5MiwiZSI6MTc2NDE4OTk3OSwicyI6IjEyOGQxYWRkOTFhNWFiNDZmMmY4Yzk0YjQ0ZDZkZTQ2ZjRlZTRjM2EiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHwiMW)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54948386641_e69495f306_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0ODM4NjY0MSwiZSI6MTc2NDE4OTk3OSwicyI6IjE1YTQwM2E2MDg1M2ZkYmE4ODczM2RiM2RkNDk1NTQ2ZWMyYzg0MzgiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHAQYz)
The booms were soldered brass rod:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54948374236_14af725cf6_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0ODM3NDIzNiwiZSI6MTc2NDE5MDI3MiwicyI6IjQ0M2JlYjMyZWFlYmM3ZWI1MDc3NmM1OGJhYTRlNGU4ZjVkMDc0MWQiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHAMhG)
The boom on the right in the image has been corrected to make all the cross pieces parallel.
There were two airbags under the tail so I made these from sprue which was filed to shape and painted in a fabric colour. I originally painted the fuselage and flying surfaces in a mix of white and Revell Beige (314) to represent the off-white of linen, and the struts (which had been cut from 20 x 30 thou strip), in Revell SM 382 enamel. Then I discovered that the machine had been painted overall white, so I had to repaint the fuselage and flying surfaces in Revell acryllic white and the struts and floats in Revell white enamel:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54948629384_d63dd1bb8a_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk0ODYyOTM4NCwiZSI6MTc2NDE5MDQxNywicyI6ImIxOTdlZDY2NjAzZTBjN2FkZTdhNWIzNTE5OTU0YzI1ZGQ3MjFkN2IiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rHC68N)
The ailerons have been cemented to the top wing in the rest position: on the original aircraft they only operated downwards as there was no return cable or springs to bring them back to the horizontal position when the aircraft was stationary.
I am now hoping that I do not make any more mistakes when I carry out the assembly of the parts- fingers crossed!
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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I'm glad the mistakes didn't throw this project too much off track because it's progressing really well. I really like your work on the nacelle and interior.
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I don't think I have had one project where I have not made errors, so your not alone here, Steve!
Frustrating I know, but at least you have been able to correct them and your progress looks good.
Regards
Dave
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Evening All,
Thanks Nigel and dave for dropping by. Dave: you know me well enough to know that I am very good at making mistakes when modelling, ( well not just modelling!) but you also know that I do try to put them right....eventually.
When I was test fitting the engine mount and engine to the fuselage longerons the engine mount broke so I had to make a new one. The second time I got the engine and mount to fit:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54972568063_1e23ebed30_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MjU2ODA2MywiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTUxNywicyI6IjM4ZDMxODk0NmRkOTRkMTU0MDU1YTc1OTZmNDljODI4ZTlmMzFiMTciLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKJMgD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54971502522_0217682960_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MTUwMjUyMiwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTUyMCwicyI6IjUyZTA0ZThhZmM1NmU1ZTA3N2JmNmFkYzcxMmFhMGMyZWQ0MTBkZWYiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKDjwf)
NB not all of the bracing at the rear of the fuselage had benn added when I took the last photo.
The fuselage nacelle was cemented to the lower wing and when this had set I attached the lower boom frame to the wing using superglue:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54972388226_58cff2d775_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MjM4ODIyNiwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTU5NywicyI6IjlhMTg1Y2UyNDBlZWJlZDBmNmRiOTYxNzMzMjJhNjc3MTQ1NjE4YmIiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKHRP1)
The upper boom frame was fixed to the upper wing in the same way:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54971502467_8ba3c78a7a_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MTUwMjQ2NywiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTY0MiwicyI6IjBhMWIxNzk0MDJmMWNlMGZiYjdlYTVjZDEwNmQ0YmJkNWQ0MzhiYWEiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKDjvi)
I have a procedure for attaching the upper wing sub-assembly to the lower wing assembly which I have used on many ocasions in the past: I attach two outer inter-plane struts to the lower wing and while these are still flexible I lower the upper wing on to them. I add a support to the rear of the booms and allow the assembly to harden. However this time I found that I could not carry out this procedure because of the weight of the upper wing assembly, so I cemented the outer wing struts to the lower wing and allowed these to dry out overnight. I put small drops of cement into the strut holes under the upper wing and gently lowered it on to the struts while supporting the rear of the booms while I inserted a single central strut. I used a highly sophisticated jig to support the assembly until the cement had set properly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54971502462_05647779a3_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MTUwMjQ2MiwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTY5MywicyI6IjNkMmI3NjkzZTk2YjVmYWI2Yjk1ZTQxYzIzOTA1NWZmZDU4ODUyYWYiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKDjvd)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54972645429_80bd487d0c_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MjY0NTQyOSwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTcyMywicyI6ImFiODNhMWMxNmQ1MWJmM2NkYzJmMzQ1NTVkMjhiOGUxZjcxNjFkOGIiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKKbgx)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54972645399_d8e40d90ec_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MjY0NTM5OSwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTc2MiwicyI6IjljMDJhNjg0ZDZjMWNjMmE2NDgyMDhjNDUxZWY3OTI3NDJkYjdmYjQiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKKbg2)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54972568028_5ab52ca41f_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MjU2ODAyOCwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTgxNCwicyI6IjBhMDRhN2FhMDNlOTU0MzczYjQ4OTNmNjkxMzY2NDYwZTFlYmVhOWIiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKJMg3)
With the struts in place I added most of the remaining interplane struts and all of the boom struts and bracing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54972645384_678d012536_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MjY0NTM4NCwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTg1OSwicyI6ImVlNzk2ZDdmMjQ3MjFjMWJkNmQ2YWVkYzk3MTQ0MWQ1OTRjYTViYTkiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKKbfL)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54973416749_224d143501_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk3MzQxNjc0OSwiZSI6MTc2NTMwMTg5NSwicyI6IjBmNDA2NDY1ZDU2OGEzZWY0M2JiOTUxZTA0MzVlZGNhMGI3NzllMjYiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rKP8ya)
The next steps will be to rig the booms and wings, add the cabane struts and.the last of the interplane struts, the rudders and horizontal tail surfaces, and then rig those parts of the model. The floats, propellor and other details will follow.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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That is one heck of an aeroplane! Lovely assembly and construction work on what looks like a very complicated structure. I really like that sophisticated jig...... ;) :D
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Yah! Loving how this is shaping up. It's going to be quite the showstopper when completed
Refreshing to read that everything doesn't always go exactly to plan; so often I'll see builds and it all just comes together so easily whereas for me I'm just making stuff up as I go along and often make a mistake that needs sorting or find myself stuck in a blind alley and have to back-peddle ::)
Paul
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It's so good to see your progress on this early bird Stephen, great work!
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Thank you Nigel, Paul and enathan for the comments - they are much appreciated.
Paul: "making stuff up as you go along" is a good definition of scratch building! I do it all the time!!
I am currently trying to fix the floats to the fuselage and had forgotten how to do it....so I am now on the third attempt and I think that I have cracked it at last> I will find out if I have later on this evening....or not!!
Stephen.
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Evening All,
As indicted in the last post I rigged the booms and wings and added the remaining struts to the assembly. The rudders were fixed in place and control horns added to them and the horizontal stabilizer so that the control wires could be added.
Fixing the floats should have been straightforward, but because I did not think things through properly I made it harder than it should have been. I started by putting on the two bars that hold the struts horizontally. I then tried to put the struts into the floats and when these had nearly set, offered them to the fuselage: I had forgotten that when trying to attach struts to a model it is a good idea if you can see the ends of the struts and the holes that you want them to fit into?. Having proved that that method does not work, I removed the struts from the floats and put them into the fuselage instead. When thy were almost dry I attached the float assembly with very little difficulty?..! This assembly had to be supported while it hardened overnight, using one of my sophisticated jigs:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54986304751_aa6f2caf8b_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NjMwNDc1MSwiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDQ1NCwicyI6IjFhYmUxZWUyNzA4YjZkMDVkZmVkMWIzMDViYzEwODJiODNhOWNiODQiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLXbH6)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54986585050_930b582d8f_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NjU4NTA1MCwiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDUyMCwicyI6IjI1ODc3OWJjYmU2ZTdlNGNjYzEwYjk0MGMwNzM5YTg0NjdkMDc0YzYiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLYC2Q)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54986585040_f83061db53_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NjU4NTA0MCwiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDU5MSwicyI6ImRiNmI5ZTRmMjJmYTkzZTYwMmU0NGYxZGNhMjFjZTRkNjAyZDIxZGMiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLYC2E)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54986556019_444ecdbeab_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NjU1NjAxOSwiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDYzNiwicyI6IjMyZmJiOTIwZGQzNWUyYzZmMmI2ZjE5MDgzNjI5MDY2OTM0ZDM5MzMiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLYtpi)
With the floats in place I could proceed to finish most of the remaining rigging, including the control wires to the ailerons. The front elevator was attached to the supports which I made from 25 thou rod. The tail floats and anti-drag wires completed the model:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54986555999_58fcbd8128_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NjU1NTk5OSwiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDY5NSwicyI6IjU0ODY5NWRlODU5MzRhMDM2MWNmN2UxM2EyMGFkYjRmNWQxZGQ2NGUiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLYtoX)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54986304541_63bfdb1d3f_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NjMwNDU0MSwiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDczMCwicyI6IjE0ZTRhNjRmYTc2YWJmOGUzOGY5NDhhYzJiYzkwZmIwYmM3NTJjNzUiLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLXbDt)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54985415497_cb6d80c66c_k.jpg?s=eyJpIjo1NDk4NTQxNTQ5NywiZSI6MTc2NTgzMDc2MCwicyI6IjFmMmZlODY4NDdkMzA3YWUxYmNkMDhjZmZhMjRlYmQwOWM1ZTRjZTciLCJ2IjoxfQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2rLSCn8)
Now that the aircraft is finished I will start to make the base for it. This will be based on a photograph of the aircraft on the River Nile at Cairo in February 1914.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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WOW!
That's a great scratchbuilding effort Stephen and a fabulous end result. Really interesting aircraft to add to your collection 8)
Thanks for sharing the build process along the way. Learning lots and its great to hear that I'm not alone in forgetting stuff that I've already learned and working things out as you go.
Paul
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An amazing scratchbuild Stephen, the finished model looks fantastic. And what an interesting aircraft!
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Amazing work as ever, Steve and can only echo what Paul and Nigel have already said .....
Love your sophisticated paint pot jig!!
Regards
Dave
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Evening All,
Thank you gentlemen for the kind comments - they are much appreciated, the more so in the light of what I am about to report.
I have been struggling with rather a lot recently, so modelling slowed to a crawl and then what I think is a minor disaster happened.
I want to put the S 80 on to a base to represent the launch of the aircraft on to River Nile at Cairo in January 1914. I have a photograph which I am using as a basis for the vignette. I made up a base from hardboard and glued some extra layers in one corner. I covered the hardboard corner with filler and sanded it too rigorously so I had to add a second layer and tried to add a little variation, but not too much as it is a river bank and therefore almost level. The bank was painted with multiple thin coats of acrylic to represent the very dark silts which make up the flood plain of the River Nile:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55076990929_5a24e3e161_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rUXYxT)
The bottom of the river was painted Revell acrylic ultramarine blue (51). I know the blue is very dark but I intended to add some lighter blue to the resin which would represent sky reflected in the water. So far so good.
I had watched several videos on different products which can be used to represent water and I chose to use AK Resin Water (AK8044) - a two part epoxy to which I could add some colouring from more acrylics. I made a small amount as a test piece and left it to harden for 24 hours and got a good result, so I decided to have a go on the real thing. I thought at first that I would make two batches of resin: make and pour one, let it harden and the repeat with a second batch. However I managed to overdo the first batch and decided on the spur of the moment to make all of the material and pour it in one go. I added what I thought would be enough colouring and poured.
Although the resin hardened it remained slightly sticky on the surface for nearly 4 days, but even worse was to follow. I had not added nearly enough colour so the very dark blue undersurface shows through. In addition over a period of about three weeks, the surface of the resin has crinkled in several places:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55076887509_7577a86b55_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rUXrNM)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55075728002_d303e4abc3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rURv8h)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55076832543_d3a38e40f1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rUXat6)
Where the surface of the resin has split, the exposed resin is slightly sticky again. I had intended to add another thin layer of transparent acrylic water gel to represent wavelets and ripples on the river surface, but I am now seriously thinking of removing the upper part of the model (fuselage, wings, etc) from the floats and making up a new float undercarriage. I can then make a new base and start again. But before I do so I need to know why the resin has reacted as it has. Does anyone have any experience with resin water or can make suggestions as to what I have done incorrectly. Has the resin reacted in this way because I added thinned acrylic paint to the mixture? If so could I add thinned enamel paint instead?
Any help/suggestions would be most welcome.
Stephen.
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:(
Ah Bugger. That's a real downer Stephen. As you suggest salvaging the model sans floats looks to be the best option at this stage.
The tackiness is almost certainly down to the resin not drying because it is too thick, but I've no experience of that particular resin so it may be another cause. I know Nigel had a number of issues when making a deep shell hole filled with water so perhaps he will chip in with suggestions.
Hopefully you'll get it sorted out
Paul
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I posted some thoughts on your other thread based on my experiences is using resin water in three dioramas. The resin can react with what you mix with it, but definitely don't put enamels in. AFAIK acrylic is the way to go.
I suspect your main problem here stems from not putting a gloss sealing layer over the base. You need an impermeable finish under the resin. I always paint the the AK one-part liquid water over the base prior to any pour. I suspect the cracking/rippling problem is due to uneven drying caused by the lack of a gloss layer on the base. Also, the deeper the pour, the higher the chance of issues because there is more resin to dry out in one go.
I had a similar but less pronounced issue in my most recent diorama. I used AK two-part, built up the pour in layers and initially it looked fine but after a few weeks there were some swirls and imperfections appearing in the surface together with a small spilt in one area (never had this before). So I covered the imperfections with ripples made from AK Water Effects gel.
Before you take the plane off, you could see if you can salvage it with AK Water Effects gel. This will build up the ripples you desired and will to some degree hide what is underneath. If there is space for another pour of a thin layer of two-part resin, this may fill the gaps before you put the ripples on top.
If you do use the AK Water Effects for ripples, practice on test pieces first. It takes some practice to get the technique right - look at Night Shift's videos on YouTube where he makes dioramas with water in them. I cocked it up on my first attempt. The most important lesson I learned was to build it up in layers, don't try to get the effect you want in one go.
This diorama uses the AK Water Effects to create a nice ripple effect (after I had to cover up my first failed attempt with another layer of resin....):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55077560311_d18fef65f5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rV1TNP)
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Many thanks Paul and Nigel for your comments.
Nigel: I did not put in a waterproof base so that is almost certainly the cause of the problem. Thank you too for explaining the use of the Acrylic gel for ripples - I have already looked at Night Shift videos and was using them as a guide - his work really is very good (as is yours by the way).
I have decided that I will make a new base - provided that I can remove the aircraft from the floats.... and use the existing one to practice the ripple effects that I want to achieve on the completed model. This is a setback but one advantage of scratchbuilding is that it is relatively easy to replace parts - a pair of floats and some struts should not be a problem. The finished model is destined for Eastchurch so I do want to try to get it right if I can, and I am happy to pay the price of learning a new technique.
Watch this space and hopefully the next post will be more successful.
Stephen.
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A quick fix from this would be to crunch up some baking foil, then flatten it out. Stick this to the base, paint with white glue, paint with light green then put multiple thin washes of blue over it until you are happy with the look. Finish off with many, many coats of high gloss. You will not get the lovely 'see slightly below the surface' effect but I think that at 1/72 you could get away with this.
Alan.
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I have decided that I will make a new base - provided that I can remove the aircraft from the floats.... and use the existing one to practice the ripple effects that I want to achieve on the completed model. This is a setback but one advantage of scratchbuilding is that it is relatively easy to replace parts - a pair of floats and some struts should not be a problem. The finished model is destined for Eastchurch so I do want to try to get it right if I can, and I am happy to pay the price of learning a new technique.
I think that's a good idea, it will be worth the effort. It doesn't look too challenging to remove the aircraft from the floats.
I use these Woodland Scenics Water Tints for colouring my resin: https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/WSWT . I've only used the muddy ones but they give a somewhat muted finish. As you found, acrylic colours can be a bit intense because they are highly pigmented.
Here's a couple more tips:
- When you work with the AK Water Effects gel, work in relatively small areas. Don't cover the whole base in the gel and then try to put the ripples in, because it will have started to go off in some areas by the time you get to them and you can't work it properly. And working in layers is key.
- Don't try to get the colour just from the resin. Paint the base in such a way that it has the main colours you need to create your seascape. You can also use this to create an illusion of depth even before the resin is poured, which means you don't have to put so much colour in the resin itself. So paint the areas closer to the jetty a lighter bule green and the areas further away a slightly darker colour. And introduce a bit of variation, that gives an impression of movement in the water itself. And tne make sure it is completely dry and thoroughly sealed before you pour the resin.
Here's a photo of the diorama above before I poured the resin. The shellhole looks deeper than it is because the centre is painted a very dark colour but I then used lighter colours towards the edges. I then poured layers of decreasingly tinted resin to create a nice impression of a deep, murky shellhole. Sadly I then screwed up the ripples with the AK gel (see tip above!) so had to cover the whole thing in a layer of heavily tinted resin to cover up the cockup. The result (above) isn't what I wanted but it's ok.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55079198621_6df56c8037_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rVahPx)
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Another suggestion for you Stephen
(I was reminded by Alan's post earlier that I'd made up a 'sea base' for a figure about 15 years ago) :o
Anyway the method I used was to sculpt the sea in Miliput which I think I built in layers; first one got a rough shape and subsequent ones refined the waves. Once dry this was painted in acrylics being quite rough in application, but deeper in the shadows and lighter towards the crests. Several layers of artists gloss medium were then painted on (keep it covered up to avoid any dust motes getting into it) I've never had any issues with gloss medium drying strangely because it's designed for artists to apply to finished paintings and you can imagine the uproar if it was 'tricky'
Finally the white crests were painted again in acrylic. For 'foam' you can stipple the very crests and even add some gesso if you need more texture (probably not in 1/72) ;)
On this one I also added barnacles using tank 'texture' powder which I think is used for simulating rough armour plate, but the medium texture one was ideal for this. The seaweed is thick artists acrylic
The figure, incidentally, is an Andrea one approximately 1/32 :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55079478959_814f26a457_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rVbJ9X)sea 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2rVbJ9X) by Paul S (https://www.flickr.com/photos/202177392@N05/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55079478964_351d092e94_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rVbJa3)Nelson on base (https://flic.kr/p/2rVbJa3) by Paul S (https://www.flickr.com/photos/202177392@N05/), on Flickr
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Oh, that water surface is a setback for sure; come to think of it, how about modelling some reeds or other plantlife of waterline over the bad bits? I am sure that might look actually good. Or some kind of a raft or a boat? Even trying to make there foam and waves might be the cure? Oh, I notice that it has been suggested above, but gets my vote too
Cheers, skyhook.
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Evening All,
After what has been for me a horrible late winter and early spring, (dull wet days, short daylight hours, and some life issues), in the past couple of weeks things have really perked up and my modelling mojo has returned. My last post reflected how I was feeling at the time - not very positive! How a couple of weeks of bright sunshine, warmer spring weather and longer days can rejuvenate an ageing model maker!
Many thanks Nigel, Paul and Skyhook for the very helpful comments: they both helped to motivate me to have another try and offered some very useful tips which as you will see I incorporated in my latest attempt.
I made a new base for the S 80 and took some advice from other modellers who have used resin effects water. I made the river bank as before - gypsum plaster over a hardwood base, but this time I followed Nigel's advice and sealed the edges and bottom of the base with water effects resin after I had painted it blue. I poured the resin in two layers, each approximately 2mm thick, rather than a single 4mm thick layer. I also used Woodland Scenics water tints, (a mixture of turquoise and navy blue), for colouring. The resin still took several days to harden and there was a very small amount of cracking of the surface, but this time it did not matter because I applied AK water gel effects to make small wavelets on the surface and these obliterated all of the minor irregularities on the resin. I sharpened a mixing stick and scooped a small amount of gel and drew the stick over the resin surface, wriggling it slightly as I did so to give an irregular pattern:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55174665666_013177d4f7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2s4AzR5)
Other modellers have suggested using an old paintbrush to apply the gel, but I think that the results speak for themselves:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55173772277_2088ca5962_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2s4w1gP)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55174665661_a770d81c83_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2s4AzQZ)
I have based my scene on a photograph taken on 3 January 1914 which showed the S 80 shortly after launch on the River Nile at Cairo, where F. McClean, A. Ogivily, H. Short and G. Smith are on or around the aircraft and others are man-handling the tail while standing on the river bank. A fellow modeller gave me some figures from a railway set and I used those for my scene - they do not exactly replicate the figures in the photo but they do act as a scale and they have been set to represent the scene:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55174844273_9235bf0c98_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2s4BuWv)
Now that at last this model is finished I can start on another project for the two seater GB, and hopefully pick up the Parnall Peto which has been stalled for too long. That will be after the Easter break as a family visit is looming and there is much to do.
I will post more pictures and some history of McClean's 1914 expedition on the River Nile in the aircraft section shortly.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Well done Stephen, you saved it! The end result looks great, I really like the ripple effect you created, it looks very effective. Well done again, you've created a unique model of a very interesting episode.
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excellent save! Looks absolutely gorgeous and the water is spot on
cheers, Skyhook