forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Rafael Berlin on January 21, 2025, 04:07:08 AM
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Hello everyone,
time for something new with wings. Greetings from France to the USA: Wingnut Wings Kit Salmson 2-A2 "USAS"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803812_ae340670ab_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigVf)
A detailing set from HGW sneaked in too. Some parts might be useful.
Supported by some Pheon Decals it is planned to build the following version:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54193098917_c2d596608c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyRNfr)
I started the build on November 3rd, so I already can show some results.
Cockpit Floor:
It started with a light pre-shading of the light linen parts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803597_1460ead870_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigRx)
The effect is actually pretty good, unfortunately not in the photo:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54154113500_73726e4c9c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpZf5)
This time a new approach on my part. All important bonding points have been masked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153659291_fad7e65c31_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvnEdT)
Preparing aluminum:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153947823_f010008f3a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvp8Zz)
Also from below:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803277_b28a7cac57_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigL2)
Aluminum, Alclad 2. I still have some of the good stuff in the glass bottles. I had previously masked the wooden frames too, not that anyone is surprised.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803347_6d5995508f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigMe)
Masking...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803232_c37464d0f7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigKf)
The unmasked frame parts received an XF-18 shower.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153658996_7385bf24fe_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvnE8N)
Mask again, this time for the wood
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803082_9674e995b1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigGE)
These slats also had to be protected
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152803097_15038a7a2a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigGV)
Base layer for wood
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153984874_dc14afb30c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpk1o)
There's nothing like the effect of good oil paint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54154112905_25fc22f3e1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpZ4P)
If you paint a test area, you will know when the oil paint is dry. After 4 days I sealed everything with Tamiya TS13 gloss varnish. Shines beautifully. ;D
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153947338_78f47c16b8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvp8Rd)
This weird thing needs to turn blue. A signal lamp will come in later.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54154112640_f0da2315c0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpYZf)
Masking again...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152802752_cbada1ef00_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigAY)
Masking fluid covered a little too much
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153658176_83e018e6eb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvnDTE)
Rest corrected with brush
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153984434_abbe9fdaad_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpjSN)
To make it look more like wood, now the matt varnish
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153946933_76802bd8b2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvp8Je)
Now it's getting exciting, unpacking, where has paint leaked?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54154112420_825f452967_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpYVs)
Fortunately, the problems were limited:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153984244_ce0e648ac8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpjPw)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54154112305_bf3db097ae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpYTt)
This was quickly fixed.
There is a PE grid over these slats. This was my first time working with metal primer. Be careful, despite the mask and suction hood you will almost find yourself short of breath. Devil's stuff.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152802867_6ea995eeef_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvigCX)
I was surprised, the color held up extremely well.
The grid is installed here:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54153985709_476a07c184_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvpkfM)
Later pilot seat and instrument panel were built.
The pilot's seat is divided into two parts, with the control mechanism still to be taken into account on the lower part. The adhesive areas were masked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191492939_42484dc7f4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHyRa)
Dark brown base paint
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191471653_8c2108d659_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHswa)
I saw a pretty cool video on how to fix a cracked leather seat. So why not try it out? Ocher stains were applied to the brown with a sponge (and a brush).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191663650_38903ebe3f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyJrAs)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191492819_05d99e98af_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHyP6)
Oil paint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191492694_e17844a060_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHyLW)
Because of the shine and because the result is dark, it is difficult to photograph
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191219536_ecb9b43a01_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyGazj)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191663270_b043906085_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyJrtU)
After a few days it was sealed with semi-matt clear varnish.
The mechanical side parts still had to be painted. But I didn't want to do it with masking tape. Here's a little spontaneous trick. Holes made in paper and a paper cut:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191663180_28264533ee_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyJrsm)
This way you can spray without messing up the rest ;D
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191663185_d45139ba3d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyJrsr)
Here is the later state
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191221051_46d20010b6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyGb2r)
The instrument panel
One of the few ejection marks in a visible location. The dentist's probe points to the right. (I can highly recommend this dental cutlery, super sharp, you can pre-mark holes, scrape out cracks, ...)(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191220761_ae9f4875c6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyGaWr)
Once again masking
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191493944_42fdb72e71_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHz9u)
The wooden part was created exactly as described above. Ocher color and oil paint applied directly on top with a flat brush. The foot recess was sprayed with Alclad 2 Microfiller Black and then with Alclad 2 Aluminum. I did a few shades, just by letting the black shine through more or less. But you can hardly see it in the photo.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191494034_e944242fd6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHzb3)
The back was absolutely analogous, also made of wood and aluminum. Then something had to be masked there, here to spray an instrument and the Generator, afterwards.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191472443_29d191b460_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHsKM)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54190324517_c1f0cf1db3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyBzvX)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191220676_bcbf33300b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyGaUY)
A small compass. I put in more work than you see in the end. The decal has covered the brass edge. Oh well. You can see it when browsing in the link with all the photos at the end of this post, but it would be unnecessary here.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191220416_2c0fc20ab4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyGaQu)
Here is a pulsator (?). It was a little more complicated:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191472243_8d824d4373_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHsGk)
Clear Yellow/Orange according to feeling...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191472253_41ac5c7b0f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHsGv)
A few Hours later the tip was masked
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191664450_7efe73dd7c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyJrQf)
Now everything is shiny black
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191472218_c41f7846b9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHsFU)
Alclad 2 polished brass
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54190324167_7fa678cb56_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyBzpV)
Unmask, some panelliner and you're done:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191493449_cba0361145_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHyZX)
Here is the finished instrument panel, with decals (all sealed with clear varnish to imitate the glass), compass, pulsator (?), ...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191493499_b58aefc9de_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHz1P)
And here is the state of construction (already a few weeks ago), everything is just plugged in
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191493409_dec27e9bab_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHyZg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191494224_1fbe477494_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyHzej)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54191221026_ddb3107120_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyGb21)
I kept the construction report a little more detailed. Maybe some people will like or benefit from this. If it's OK, I'll continue in this style.
The state of construction is already a little more advanced. More updates will follow in the next few days.
Best Regards
Rafael
PS: Here is a link to tons of pics including the latest status of this project. Unfiltered, unsorted, unedited: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A)
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Excellent representation of the leather seat and the metal parts. I also really like the way you have depicted the woodgrain.
And thanks for the detail in your thread, I can certainly benefit from that
Greetings from HH
Joerg
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Detailed information about construction, type and colors used are TOP - a great help for all readers/modelers.
Your work on the Salmson looks very good Rafael!
Btw:
Both Wingnut Salmson kits are superbly modeled - I am very surprised that these two kits - like the AMC DH.9 - are treated so underrated.
Servus
Bertl
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Superb detail and quality of work; keep up the excellent presentation. This is going to be a real joy to follow!
Cheers,
Lance
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Fantastic work. Please keep this level of detail up, it is sooo helpful!
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Superb work, I love your wood finish and the leather seat turned out well. Also, all the little hints and tips are very helpful, thank you for those.
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Thanks to all of you for your kind words :)
Btw:
Both Wingnut Salmson kits are superbly modeled - I am very surprised that these two kits - like the AMC DH.9 - are treated so underrated.
Bertl, I couldn't agree more. So far it is fantastic kit with high amount of details, and everything fits just perfectly. I also very much like the available colour schemes out of the box AND via Pheon decals.
And yes, the AMC DH.9 is still available in Germany for 155 EUR, during Black Friday week even for approximately 110 EUR. Nobody wants to buy it...
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Detailed information about construction, type and colors used are TOP - a great help for all readers/modelers.
Your work on the Salmson looks very good Rafael!
Btw:
Both Wingnut Salmson kits are superbly modeled - I am very surprised that these two kits - like the AMC DH.9 - are treated so underrated.
Servus
Bertl
I agree 100% on everything you said Bertl! The Salmson is a Terrific kit and I also am surprised more are not built. I also agree that Rafaels details and painting are Fantastic! Keep up the detailed log Rafael!!
RAGIII
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Thanks RAGIII, I will do my very best!
So hello everyone, today some small things...
I'll start with the radio system, which could at least transmit Morse signals via the roll-out antenna. Some in the forum will certainly know more about this. Unfortunately you won't see much of it later, but it was still fun.
Let's go...
The device itself consists of 2 molded parts, a normal part and a transparent part:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271576368_e364728aca_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFN1RW)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271581549_ec87e6c9b6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFN3pg)
I have no explanation for the details inside, but I interpreted the large vertical cylinder as a coil. Would it really have been copper colored? Presumably a protective layer over it? No matter, artistic freedom, for me it will be copper.
So black glossy primer and then added the copper (I masked the later adhesive surface between the halves, hence the thin bead all around):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271760760_580b9abb50_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFNXF7)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271332616_b6bfcf3f91_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFLLpj)
The inner border should later have a metallic shimmer. Since the black primer is already there, now is the best time to do it. So mask copper coil and later display:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271576273_c19999fa25_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFN1Qi)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271332571_844e56f09d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFLLox)
Coil demasked
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271332541_86516ddc3b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFLLo2)
I thought perhaps the electrical components were mounted on an insulating plate, perhaps Bakelite. I just imagined it to be shiny orange-brown. Brush work, I forgot the exact color, but it's not that important:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271581419_5d88f02e4b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFN3n2)
Then some grain with watercolor pencils and finally with Clear Orange, also painted over with a brush. The decal for the scale was also added (which was later "glazed" with clear varnish):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271760670_55a3dbfe50_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFNXDy)
Luckily, I had pre-treated the adhesive surface with masking fluid, which makes it a little easier (better than damaging something when scraping with a blade):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271760610_0d27b91c08_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFNXCw)
Dry fit
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54270446687_d5911a889d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFGe3F)
Mask viewing window. If you look closely, the two halves don't fit together very well. After gluing, some sanding had to be done (not in the pics). But it works also better if the transparent part is protected in the window area.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271332371_70e59badd2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFLLk6)
Adding a layer of this "French Blue" (Tamiya XF-23). I always add some Clear (X-22), otherwise it looks too dull and matte. In this case about 2 parts blue and one part gloss varnish.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271760475_7d0a56456d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFNXAc)
The rest was painting details, small washes on individual parts, playing with pigments, graphite pencil for the rivets... Here is the finished radio (unfortunately a bit difficult to photograph)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271581209_3ab1935eaf_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFN3ip)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54271575983_02198023a4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFN1Ki)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54270446557_60576390e0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFGe1r)
Just to compare the size, the thing is quite small...
(https://community.revell.de/download/file.php?id=91066&t=1)
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Even though the order seems a bit mixed up, here's an update on the supports between the wings.
All 8 pieces, already properly prepared:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54274756816_0a05b58ed0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG5jif)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54274756791_77d098722d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG5jhP)
The supports should be made of wood. The 5 ?rings? on each of the supports are supposed to represent linen straps, which were wrapped and glued on top for stiffening. At least that's how I understood it from the building instructions.
I wanted to make the supports as similar (not identical) as possible, so they should all go through the same steps in one operation. And it should be comfortable to set them aside to dry. A wooden stick should help.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275007489_4dc3da72be_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6APc)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54273878487_416d95883b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFZPcD)
The holes were drilled a little further and further and further until the supports could be inserted tightly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275005198_0ddd0c1a8b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6A8G)
The ends were then protected with masking fluid:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275007439_b2e90ed22c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6ANk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275186655_a6a5003c5c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG7w5g)
Brown color, an ocher tone, I think Desert Yellow (XF-59). Together with other components (more on these in subsequent posts).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54274756671_b454361c93_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG5jfK)
Use of oil paint, essentially "burnt sienna". I also mixed some other shades of brown + black so that not all the supports look exactly the same (but on the pics the effect is hardly visible).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54273878327_bb1d733c3a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFZP9T)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54273878292_5618d881e5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFZP9h)
Sealed with TS13 after drying. The masking of the ends could then be removed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54273878277_4fbf4c5ff1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFZP92)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275005088_2237aa0d90_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6A6N)
The supports shouldn't end up looking too dull, which in my opinion doesn't fit with components that are supposed to have low air resistance.
Now to the linen straps. Decals are included in the kit. Even in 2 different colors. In the end we don't know the exact colors. We only know that there was a light and a dark version. I chose light. But I voted against decals. I think it would be very complicated to bring them all up convincingly (but maybe I'm wrong).
Masking was quite a challenge because the supports taper towards the ends. You have to fiddle for a really long time for the outer rings. I wanted to prevent the sprayed paint from running under the masking. Therefore two hints.
Firstly:
Work with absolute precision. Applying some tapes seemed to take forever. However, in the end it worked somehow.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275007254_f332ae55c0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6AK9)
Secondly:
Spray on with your airbrush from a long distance. This means that the paint particles are dry as soon as they hit the object. This gives the rings a slightly rougher/matter structure, which is in no way a problem with linen. And since the paint is almost dry when it hits the strut, nothing runs under the masing tape. The disadvantage is that you use a lot of paint for a few small rings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275005013_82a771def7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6A5v)
Fits for me
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275004953_dd1eacba90_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6A4t)
Only 7 to go
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54273878212_78e389258b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFZP7U)
Now the edges had to be set off a little. So the bands were painted with a kind of panel liner (I used Ammo Mig PLW Black Night A.MIG-1611). Allow to dry briefly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54274756416_e9c35e8048_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG5jbm)
The rings were then exposed again using Ammo Mig Enamel Odorless Thinner and a brush and the color was minimally smeared onto the wood. That took some of the shine off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275007199_453b12261e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6AJc)
Finally, the ends were given a light blue (XF-23) paint (typical for the French machines).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275004868_59337c2a34_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG6A31)
To be honest, the net working time was certainly exceeding 1 hour per strut. I didn't expect that before.
-----------------------------------------
Just another note: The order in the construction report may seem a bit confusing, but I like to post completed construction phases, even if they took several weeks. Of course, I also continued working on other thingsin the meantime. That will be in subsequent posts.
Thanks a lot for watching,
Rafael
And as always for those who are curious, here are all my photos of the project including the latest status. However, unsorted, unedited, bad ones included, duplicate ones, from different angles and against different backgrounds :P
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A)
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Thanks for the great update. Your step by step process is very helpful.
Happy Modeling, Kevin
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Great job, very well done. ;)
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Superb attention to detail. It will definitely be worth it, as this is looking like an amazing build already.
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Great stuff, Rafael. Lovely!
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Wow, great details and very well explained. Thank you
Joerg
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Yes, thank you indeed! Beautiful work. Really appreciate the hints and tips. / Ian
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Wow! Amazing details on one of my favorite aircraft. Thanks for sharing your technique with replicating worn leather. I?ll definitely try this out.
All the best,
Tim
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Thanks to all of you for you nice compliments :)
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Hello everyone,
it's been a while since the last post, so it's time to continue. Well, you asked for the dirty details, so you have to read everything ;D ;D ;D
Today it will be about the side struts, side parts and maybe a few little things. Here are the two inner side parts in their raw state:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317188845_df4ddb70b4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPMRX)
So many details on just so few components. Therefore, a lot of masking work. Also areas that need to be glued were masked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315880802_4f0e5dbdf7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH62u)
Ocher color, as before, as first step for imitating wood
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316999859_87dc49d93f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNPFz)
Oil tank received a blue painting
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317188785_b18b015a3c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPMQV)
Then came the oil paints. Always the same as before. But always slightly different mixing ratios to make it a little more lively. Please note, many small things (cables, hoses, valves, ...) were immediately stripped from the oil paint using Enamelthinner.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316999409_413977285e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNPxP)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315880592_f5b4f75e75_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5XS)
Maybe interesting, at least for readers from Germany. I really like using makeup brushes for ?oil painting,? and these are exactly these ones from Rossmann:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317005703_a5627dc02c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNRqk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317005513_5cdacff49a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNRn4)
The two brushes on the left are ideal for the wood grain. They don't scratch and have exactly the right stiffness depending on the application. And the package costs just 6-7 euros (would be roughly the same in dollars).
I wrote "oil" on it because I use the same brushes (not the same ones) for dry brushing. Just to avoid any confusion ;)
After a few days I continued with TS13 clear varnish, no picture of that.
Demasking:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315880587_09780f4e2e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5XM)
And (as an example) mask again
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315880652_17856c7775_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5YU)
Some details were painted with brush
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316999199_58b7caae52_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNPuc)
The upper wing supports were treated in the same way as the other wing supports from the previous post.
Here are a few detailed photos of the inside parts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316768356_80f8d0d0dd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKMCS9)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317004773_33c1dae963_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNR9i)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317004758_9f11cf62ae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNR93)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now the actual side walls. Looking back, I did a bit too much work. Oh well. Way too much work.
You make an extra effort to remove the ejection marks...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317188085_e7e9823751_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPMCR)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316769686_152dc87994_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKMDg5)
...only to discover later that they disappear behind the oil tank (just shown). One could have noticed :(
OK, starting with pretty components is also something
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317006118_317a9d9d7e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNRxu)
All glue points have been masked
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315879882_8af2c1e6c0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5KC)
Pre-shading was actually rather unnecessary. Oh well
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317005943_70dd88d385_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNRut)
Linen color
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317187650_72e783ed52_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPMvm)
Let me put it as follows: you can see the preshading (unfortunately not in the photos). However, later you will only see small parts through the opening. Worth the effort? At least it makes you feel good ;D
OK. let's continue. That was rather unpleasant:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315879687_28a37cd3f3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5Gg)
Oil paint again. There's a lot of wood in here:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316769276_b24f38d0d9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKMD91)
Unmasked it looks pretty, but sterile
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317005743_224c56c208_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNRr2)
Sealing with TS13
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315879327_487b2b0df7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5A4)
Now we mash, oil paint with turpentine substitute:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317187285_d9fb819eb6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPMp4)
yummy
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315879312_b9c7e4b7ac_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5zN)
Distribute nice and gently :P
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315879167_691109d866_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5xi)
Don't forget toilet paper... (to soak up any excess) ;)
Then it dries quite quickly. While it's drying, you can use a brush to add some contour as you like:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315878992_91fae58ff7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKH5uh)
Well, this is what you'll see later (everyone has to decide for himself, if it's worth the extra mile):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316770706_314f44095a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKMDyE)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Perhaps another little thing, the signal lamp. Here it is on the toothpick:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317106503_645265bf86_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPnog)
Black satin matt the base coat and aluminum roughly dabbed with a sponge as peeled paint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316871021_8809451037_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNaoe)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317106458_bf76c99bdf_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPnnu)
Now that wasn't a flashlight. The lamp had a proper power supply, probably with a plug, see lamp in the below linked picture (number 11) from the internet. Source is a user "thegreatlandoni" who made has his Flickr album https://www.flickr.com/photos/landoni/albums/72157630332673974/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/landoni/albums/72157630332673974/) available for all of us. Here the link to the exact picture https://flic.kr/p/64uMWn (https://flic.kr/p/64uMWn)
I used 0.2mm lead wire for the connection cable:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316870961_48d0631c57_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKNanc)
Twisted:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315980852_5a2ed2ca51_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKHALu)
Wrapped around brush handle:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315980887_3ae373d786_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKHAM6)
Painted brown
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54315980827_168ea16d6b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKHAL4)
Glued on:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317099554_8bfb36c395_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKPkjs)
View "from the inside"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54317289155_92ed33270c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKQiFr)
That should be it for today. If you like, here are all the individual parts (some not shown so far) as they currently exist:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316034592_2f271f5228_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKHSK3)
Next time maybe a few more details (second seat, belt, battery...), if desired.
Thanks for watching (and your patience). See you soon,
Rafael
As always, all photos of the project can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A)
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Wow, simply wow! Thanks for providing such detail. Quite inspiring. Cheers / Ian
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Beautiful detail work, most of which is designed for Schrodinger as we say on here (it's both there and not there, because once the fuselage is closed up you can't see a lot of it!). The effort is part of the enjoyment though, and at least you have photos for posterity of all this superb work.
The makeup brushes are very cheap and very useful.
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Great work, but now we want to see your great eyes as well. . .
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I love your attention to detail and paint work, Rafael. What a beautiful build.
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This is such an awesome tutorial. Thank you.
Hey guys, if you haven't clicked on his album link above, do so. Amazingly detailed log of the build.
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Beautiful work! Defentialy saving for future reference and ideas ;D
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Fabulous so far can't wait for the next installment :)
Paul
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WOW!!!
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Thank you very much, I'm really happy that you like it :)
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Some brilliant work done here. This is turning out to be a good one to follow.
Alan.
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The Salmson was one of My favorite WNW builds. What you are doing to the kit is amazing!
RAGIII
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Thanks Alan and RAG!
So I would like to continue a little bit. In the last weeks I finished the interior of the cockpit. It may not seem like that many changes in the end, but it was quite time consuming. Some bracing wires were complicated and I had to wait for a creative idea ;)
Working material for the bracing wires and control wires was the elastic thread from Infini. Whenever it only needs to be passed through a tube once, I use the very thin ones from Albion Alloys (0.2mm/0.4mm):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357992644_4fbba349ba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqVpJ)
I used Gaspatch turnbuckles in 1/48. I cut them off in rows and then stuck them onto a stir stick:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358190245_e973f03dc9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrW9D)
In this form they can be easily painted. For me it was Alclad 2 steel:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786176_4faf98c66b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpS2W)
Most frequent type of bracing was the following. For most of you most likely nothing new, but some readers might like a little explanation. Hopefully the picture story is self-explanatory:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358190190_be07fa9612_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrW8G)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357991479_c1ee925e37_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqV4D)
Just before the turnbuckle, add a small drop of superglue, then you can wrap one end of the thread around the other (still tensioned) thread.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357787056_e37ffa28c5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpSi7)
Fix everything again with superglue. But in such a way that nothing gets into the eyelet of the turnbuckle, so that everything remains loose and movable. Both sides finished:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357992509_c693f1e3e8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqVnp)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358190165_cf41002877_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrW8g)
Taking a look on the original Salmson pictures it was for me the most appropriate solution.
After the two tubes have been pushed on, everything is ready for further processing. Glue in, with appropriate cuts. You can do it in such a way that the tubes are only pushed into place after threads have been glued in the frames. Than fix also the tubes with superglue:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356905022_db9f263e87_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkm6C)
Put a piece of paper underneath to protect the floor from splashes of paint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356905027_7bec871c05_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkm6H)
Mix metal paint to taste:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358190170_4f1f0fadf0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrW8m)
Paint, done:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786921_b9d25c36b2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpSfM)
Things work differently with the control cables. First, I made guides inside the wooden frames out of tubes. (It will immediately become clear what I mean). This time I used slightly thicker tubes to make it easier. Inner diameter 0.3mm, outer diameter 0.5mm. Tip, use a drill to ensure continuity.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358007008_08cd172fca_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqZFo)
But the drill is also useful for gluing the tube in precisely. Simply stick it on, prepare the target location with a drop of superglue and then place it precisely with the drill:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189985_fecde75c98_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrW5a)
A lot of these guide tubes were glued in. Not visible in the photo, I painted a bracket later:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357992439_cbdaaf2c89_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqVmc)
Here are the control cables themselves. Since these have to be threaded through tubes twice, I also used the slightly thicker 0.3mm/0.5mm tube version:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189890_68ebc15d54_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrW3w)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786866_d90bacf63c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpSeQ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358006848_638320a9f3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqZCC)
The rudder control cables were initially routed underneath the tank:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786871_05fb2a90f4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpSeV)
Here you can see how the control cables run through the tubes on the sides of the wooden frames:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786781_1d360fe06a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpSdn)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189705_4c291404a2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVZk)
The fixation on a piece of Styrofoam. Just put a toothpick in it. The threads can then be tensioned well with masking tape:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904752_634c47adf1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkm1Y)
Here is the idea of a rather complicated internal bracing. The ropes must be stretched crosswise in two places, but not with the cross in the middle. You can see it in the photo already shared in the last post:
(https://community.revell.de/download/file.php?id=92192&mode=view)
I proceeded as follows for this. For the ropes with turnbuckles already explained above, I cut an extremely thin ring from the 0.3mm/0.5mm tube:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904657_b7675a0804_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkkZk)
Everything is threaded a bit specifically:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189655_b21697b51d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVYt)
Put it to the later position:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904712_cbaf699794_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkm1h)
Now you can play with the tension of the threads:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189635_5edfb1e0f7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVY8)
Once you have aligned it somewhat, the ring has to be pushed down evenly, which is a bit of fiddling. It is then fixed there with superglue. I then added a good drop of superglue, which was then painted. Here is the result of the two particularly crossed ropes (left and right of the folding seat):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189605_1a3c41ba5a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVXB)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357992004_600b8ce1ca_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqVdG)
Subsequently, further bracing wires were added between the individual wooden frames. But it's actually always the same:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904502_2f281dfbe2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkkWE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904462_15930fcb10_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkkVY)
What became really complicated, however, were the bracing wires from crossing double ropes right next to the front seat. There is actually no space to work. And they have to be painted before gluing, otherwise you won't be able to reach them with a brush. Maybe a few more impressions of this to give you an idea of how it still worked for me. You glue the threads on one side:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358006443_6409fcb4fa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqZvD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904327_5ae6cf4bb0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkkTD)
You can then paint them while they are stretched. So tighten it briefly with e.g. masking tape.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786281_68ace2dbec_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpS4K)
Then you can thread through and glue on the other side. (Without photo)
Another method, sometimes useful. Use the weight of the tweezers for tighteninh, simply because you lack your third and fourth hands ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357991614_b42c2a064b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqV6Y)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189150_fd3dbcaa20_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVPL)
All tensions are then attached here. Front left even in a double version (there is also a detailed photo):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358006273_4282998d6f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqZsH)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358006233_f5295af283_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqZs2)
Finally, a few impressions from the inside, partly with the side wall in the background:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357786076_bdbd5aeb85_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPpS1d)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357991409_8cae4a6d90_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqV3r)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357991404_61c5209e6c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqV3m)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189470_0bb4e0bbb1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVVh)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54356904422_6be96ab534_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPkkVh)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358006513_04f7d6c662_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqZwR)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54357991784_009daa6bd4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPqV9U)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54358189410_b1d172998a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qPrVUf)
The cockpit is now finished from the inside. Big compliments to Wingnut Wings. This is the most beautifully detailed cockpit from the inside for me so far. It's complicated, but the result right out of the box is really impressive. Great kit.
I wil proceed with the motor.
Thanks for reading. As always, all photos can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A)
Best Regards
Rafael
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Rafael - your cockpit rigging and control lines look exquisite. Very well modelled and painted.
Cheers,
Gary
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Exquisite work on a very difficult interior.
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hi, if you are interested here youi have colors proposition in Gunze:
(https://i.postimg.cc/63fZPHRv/general.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cg66gBFx)
there are based i Marc Chassard work who realise with pigments the Toelle's betterfly project colors compostion:
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZrHG2WG/charte-couleur.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdkp65SX)
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More amazing work Rafael! The bracing/rigging is perfect!
RAGIII
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Rafael, thank you for sharing your process - the end result looks magnificent!
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Using tubes as guides is genius. Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing / Ian
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Exquisite work Rafael, and thanks for sharing your photos (both here and in your album). I'm looking forward to seeing more....
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Thank you very much to all of you.
But special thanks to xan for the color sheets. They're quite interesting. Even the first color for "undersurfaces" does not match with the color suggested by WnW. WnW suggests Tamiya XF57/buff, which is already darker than XF55/deck tan. Your color table even suggests to brighten up XF55 with XF2/white in relation 1:1. However, it seems to fit much better to the Pheon suggestions.
I really would like to give that color suggestions a chance. Func fact: I have no experience with Gunze colors, how to delute them etc.
And the sheet even demands for a mixture from Gunze and Tamiya (light green no.1). That looks like some serious spray testing. ;D
I will report...
Best Regards
Rafael
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Thank you very much for the detailed guide! It's very helpful and the work is amazing ;D
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Rafael, a big compliment for everything you show us here. You have an eye for the smallest details and imaginative solutions for their realisation. Great photos and explanations, interesting for all of us.
I'm already looking forward to the next updates.
By the way, Gunze paints can be easily thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (probably available from your local dealer), which also works with Tamiya XF paints, and you can also mix Gunze with Tamiya paints using Levelling Thinner.
Greetings
Joerg
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Fantastic job on this very busy interior.
I can only repeat what Joerg said. Also, mixing Gunze and Tamiya colors is no problem. Both are alcohol based acrylics (vs. the <<real>>, water diluted acrylics from e. g. Vallejo) and so they can be diluted with isopropanol, too.
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Beautiful work xan, thanks for sharing the colouring sxhemas!
Are they part of a more complete work? And in case is that work available for purchase somewhere?
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Hello everyone,
and thanks for your last kind comments!
I haven't written anything in a long time, sorry. And that was pretty stupid. I wanted to post the entire engine as a separate assembly, and that's exactly what's backfiring on me now. The engine was so demanding and time-consuming that I now had to choose from over 200 photos. It's really hard to decide what to leave out. I had some ideas and discovered for me some new products, which could be helpful also for others. So it will become a very big post, and hopefully and hopefully you won't fall asleep during reading :)
Let's start with what you get in the kit. If you roughly put the sprues together, you get this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448529236_0452415dab_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWMs)
You can actually see the amazing level of detail right out of the box. Great. But here we come also to the first problem. Unfortunately, you can immediately see that the fit between the upper and lower halves isn't perfect. All cylinders have this seam on both sides. And no file I know of can get between them. This is a challenge, so let's get started.
After gluing, the joints were masked and then everything was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 (heavily diluted). This made all the seams clearly visible (no separate photo, it wouldn't be pretty anyway).
Here's my solution for this type of filing. Misuse of the Albion Flex-I-File. Cut off a bit of the sanding strip on both sides. Do this on both sides so it doesn't tear on one side due to the pulling force. Use a cutter knife and a ruler. Here's one filing strip and one polishing strip:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710764_1b3d65d175_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSKf)
Now you can also carefully sand in more inaccessible places:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710589_e15a075c3a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSGe)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710564_1a439dc66b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSFN)
If you don't know, you won't be able to explain the gap between the things on the cylinders and the valve guide arms. Unfortunately, Wingnut Wings only implemented the spring mechanism halfway here; half the spring is missing. And that's to be taken literally. Hopefully, you'll know what I mean in a moment. To fix this, you first need to bend a wire into a U-shape in the smallest possible way. You can't do this evenly by hand (at least I can't).
Don't be confused, after a few pictures, it'll become clear what this will be. Above, the "bending tool": two pieces of brass tubing. Below, the copper wire to be bent. The rest is a picture story, as everyone will surely understand:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710574_398e1dd8fb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSFY)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448896680_e3620587bc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsQ1G)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448770368_6f8e8dec44_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsbsU)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448528861_a0f126db62_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWEZ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448896635_30f2fab151_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPZV)
Shortening:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448770303_cba53085e0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsbrM)
Installation:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710219_9deefe88e9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSzR)
Drill out the spring:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448896485_7466b0ebd5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPXk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448528561_cafc858978_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWzP)
Repeat this process twice for each of the 9 cylinders. So, 18 times. Many hours later:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448528566_ffc7f6b58c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWzU)
As you can see in this photo, sanding with the above solution was successful. Everything was then recoated with Mr Surfacer 1500 to create a uniform surface. However, the finish is somewhat dull, even when thinned well. Therefore, it's very important to spray all future metal parts with Alclad 2 (now called A-Stand and recently produced by Ammo) Black Primer & Microfiller beforehand. With this preparation, you'll achieve usable metallic effects:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448770088_b208d00a97_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsbo5)
Here comes the metal:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448769988_e7cd9c0e4a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsbmm)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447665377_6e26a837e7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvZk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710089_e28a3cdde7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSxB)
Now things get interesting. The Salmson 9z was water-cooled. So we have copper cooling system around the cylinders. Therefore, everything that shouldn't be copper-coated was masked. (The part in the middle was already masked, but it's barely visible.) Then we covered it with Alclad 2 copper.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447665302_3369cb41ac_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvY3)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447665262_2d28c468af_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvXm)
Some modelers leave it in this light copper tone. I don't like that. The copper will certainly look completely different after a few hours of flying. It will also have aged and tarnished. If you google "old copper," you'll see that it turns almost black. The black Alclad Primer works excellent for darkening it (later pictures will be better):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448528316_3491693709_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWvA)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448896275_df803066f3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPTH)
Without words:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447665137_a5aa37f6f6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvVc)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448709869_c6666120a5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrStP)
Now for the next problem. The valve rods must be connected to the levers in a sensible way
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448896105_6c592f9f65_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPQM)
As you can see, you have to take care of the spark plugs beforehand; you won't be able to get to them later.
They don't have to be bright white; they'll be dirty afterward anyway. Gray primer has sufficient coverage:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448769703_6778d8cf0b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsbgr)
The distribution ring is still missing. Using the needle of an insulin syringe, you can puncture the exact center and then drill out (0.7 mm):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448710854_839c9162f9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSLN)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448529171_ee38cf3bb7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWLk)
Painted with matte black (Tamiya X18). And the clamps were brushed with Alclad 2. Yes, Alclad 2 can be applied very precisely. Simply apply it to the cap of the bottle with a fine brush after shaking...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447664927_6edb8479c4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvRz)
Without photos. Holes for the ignition cables were also drilled into the distributor ring using an insulin syringe and a small drill.
For the ignition cables, I used 0.2 mm lead wire. It's the perfect material; it stays exactly where you bend it, and it's super easy to cut.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448769688_9c98942140_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsbgb)
The wires were painted brown, glued to the spark plugs, and the tips were coated with copper Alclad. Later, I added a dash of black (not shown in the photo).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448895965_42de339da1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPNn)
Here is a hint for a really good tool, black superglue. I discovered it for me after seeing Plasmo using something comparable in his videos.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448709554_c395b01a89_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSoo)
It comes out of the bottle quite runny and dries to a high gloss. If you wait a bit, it thickens a bit, yet still forms a smooth surface when applied. I used it to create the connection between the valve arms and valve rods (you may remember the photo with the gaps). You can see it now in the high-gloss black spheres. These are simply drops of glue applied with a thin wire. Later, I painted them with Alclad:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448527886_023829a841_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWob)
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I'll skip to the radiator (the front and back are identical, I won't go into that later). It was pre-painted black. I think it was simply Vallejo Black or Tamiya X18. The center, however, is supposed to be aluminum. I used my circle cutter. Note: Always add more masking and divide it into smaller pieces. This way, you can easily overlap the adhesive strips:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448709394_0b27d23784_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSkC)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448527876_fc9bd2a80c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWo1)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448769318_97732da3d4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsb9N)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448769288_735bdf9f12_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsb9h)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448709289_748ae05c65_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSiP)
To give the cooler the appropriate finish, these two dry paints were used for dry-brushing. Nicely smudged:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447664437_ea5b4dc994_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvH8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448527736_a0e31b5851_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWkA)
Even better:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447664442_78c6f17c9f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvHd)
Now making use of thinned oil paint. Black, Burnt Sienna and Turpentine substitute
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448769098_22bf417553_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsb61)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448708999_22600751ae_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSdP)
I also got the entire engine dirty with it. Here's the result after it dried. Incidentally, this happens quite quickly, within a few hours, thanks to the white spirit (turpentine substitute):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448709014_d0f36ab8d9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSe5)
As a final item on the agenda (you'll be done soon), I'd like to show the magnetos with the wiring:
I'll spare you the details, but I'll explain how I got to this point. Prime the plastic piece with black primer, apply metallic paint, and then mask it off. The pipes are sheathed, which was then painted black (as the magnetos). The clamps are painted with Alclad. Metal parts: play around with brown and black panel liner to break up the uniformity...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448709039_7bc5df7baa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSev)
Other pipes were made similarly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447664162_e5eea9f89f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvCo)
Here, I've glued on 0.1mm fishing line to spray it with Vallejo Air brown. These will then become the connecting cables:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448708809_65ca41837b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrSax)
Glued with the black superglue
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448895300_a6935edf5e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPAU)
No photo. The shine of the glue was brushed off with diluted matte varnish.
Bent brass pipes were now needed to bundle the cable harnesses:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448527386_f8afbd9a9a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqWey)
Here you can see how the cables were plugged in and come out on the other side.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448895140_34ef311c1b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPy9)
Brass pipes were painted (almost) black with this mixture:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448768603_dc2ceffbbf_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsaWt)
Here's the next step. Where the paint came off with tweezers or similar tools, it was touched up later.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448768588_3e3187ed7c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsaWd)
After all cables were pulled to the correct length, superglue was dripped into the back of the painted brass tubes to prevent the cables from moving before they were cut:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448708514_2b31cc5454_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrS5s)
Everything was secured in place, and the engine was finished after more than 6 weeks. Here some final pictures:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54447663777_b2f9c423a4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXmvvK)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448708404_9aa06f6737_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrS3y)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448708334_cbf37e6cb0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrS2m)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448526901_b5d9cafa1d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqW6c)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448526991_d56bc200c5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXqW7K)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448768063_dd605b0ed5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsaMa)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448894745_5e02dddd71_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsPrk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448708144_385a7eb1a8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXrRY5)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54448768053_58e05f84fa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qXsaLZ)
Thank you for your patience. Many more photos with additional intermediate steps, as always, here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A)
Best Regards
Rafael
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Beautiful work and thanks again for all the tips
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Wow Rafael, I'm really impressed by your work on the engine... jawdropping!
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Thanks for sharing your photos on that link, they are really useful, congratulations for your workshop! mine is about 1 /4TH of yours!
:-)
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That's amazing work Rafael. After all that work, I hope you are leaving the cowlings off the finished model......
Thanks for the tip on bending small U-shapes using two pieces of brass tubing - that's really clever and very helpful.
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Truly remarkable. Great fun following this, thanks.
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Phenomenal work. This all looks really good. Master engine.
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Thanks to all of you for your kind words :)
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Fantastic work on the engine!
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I'm happy to see an update on your build log! And wow what an update - the engine looks amazing and the pictures of the steps are so helpful :)