forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Completed models => Topic started by: DaveB on June 25, 2024, 01:27:10 AM
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Dear all,
Finished the Roden Sopwith Strutter kit that was given to me by a fellow WW1 aircraft modeller last year. The kit (parts wise) was all complete but was missing the clear film and decal sheets.
Following a request on this forum, NigelR was able to provide me a full Roden decal sheet as he has used the afternarket 'Aviattic' set. Many many thanks, Nigel!
Nothing special here - I have built this one mostly OOB and rigged with 0.11mm fishing line for all bracing wires and knitting elastic to simulate control cables. Finished by brush as always.
I also found this to be quite a demanding kit from Roden not helped by the 'instructions' that featured many mistakes and vague part placement.
Completed in second kit markings for No. 70 Sqn., RFC, flown by Lt. J H Gotch, Spring 1917.
(https://i.imgur.com/KNLj0Df.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wSsuPX1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3hj6Kyc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BZS10Ny.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DGzXWdr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AKVTFBo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2UFfAwR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N9x7L2Z.jpg)
Regards
Dave
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Nice model, Dave, really looks the part. Great detail work and the rigging is terrific.
Great to see these Roden kits getting built, and built well.
Sandy
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I think this is great. I’ve been working with Roden kits too and I know it can be difficult. It’s a pleasure to see this one for me. Regards, Paul
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Lovely crisp building there Dave
Paul
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Very nice indeed.
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That's turned out really nicely Dave, great job. I really like the subtle weathering on the underside and treatment of the structure showing through the CDL. The instructions can be more of a hindrance than a help on this one, I found Sandy's build on here very helpful.
Glad to be of assistance with the decals, TBH I had forgotten about sending those over (although to be fair it was a while ago....... ;) :))
I have recently rediscovered my store of knitting elastic and have been experimenting a bit with that. What was the brand you used - Prym?
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Having seen this recently I can only add to the comments above that this is another of your first class models Dave. The weathering and rigging are top notch. I would never have guessed that you have to struggle in places with his model - it is a tribute to your skill and patience that it has turned out so well.
Stephen.
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Many thanks, Sandy, PP, Paul, Prez and Stephen - appreciated!
Regards
Dave
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That's turned out really nicely Dave, great job. I really like the subtle weathering on the underside and treatment of the structure showing through the CDL. The instructions can be more of a hindrance than a help on this one, I found Sandy's build on here very helpful.
Glad to be of assistance with the decals, TBH I had forgotten about sending those over (although to be fair it was a while ago....... ;) :))
I have recently rediscovered my store of knitting elastic and have been experimenting a bit with that. What was the brand you used - Prym?
Many thanks, Nigel -
You may this one possible, mate!
Regarding the elastic knitting thread. Unfortunately, I don't know what make this is as I was given a small reel of this material from a fellow member of my model club. All I can say it's not Pryme (I have and do use this) and this thread is slightly finer hence why I used it for simulating the control wires.
Regards
Dave
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Regarding the elastic knitting thread. Unfortunately, I don't know what make this is as I was given a small reel of this material from a fellow member of my model club. All I can say it's not Pryme (I have and do use this) and this thread is slightly finer hence why I used it for simulating the control wires.
Thanks for that Dave, I shall investigate the options at the sewing/craft shop next time my wife goes shopping there......
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Ditto all the above compliments !
Ed
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Another Beauty Dave! As always, the painting and details are super. I admire those of you whom have mastered this kit. I fell victim to the sketchy directions. The W struts were installed wrong and I screwed it all up trying in vain to do a fix. Your build is inspiring and I know I will need to try again!
RAGIII
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Another Beauty Dave! As always, the painting and details are super. I admire those of you whom have mastered this kit. I fell victim to the sketchy directions. The W struts were installed wrong and I screwed it all up trying in vain to do a fix. Your build is inspiring and I know I will need to try again!
RAGIII
Your very kind, Rick -
Yes, the W cabane struts are a tricky part of the build for sure. When first installed, mine were bowed on one side - I cured this by carefully cutting from under the upper wing and snipping (very small) sections away until they fitting correctly.
And yes, you must definately give this one another go.
Regards
Dave
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Nicely modelled, Dave - a very handsome looking model.
Cheers,
Gary
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Stunning model - really nice work! :)
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Dave,
An excellent build of a not so easy Roden kit. I have the Sopwith Triplane nearing completion and your statement of vague instructions is o so right.
What impresses me the most is your hand painting. What brand of paint do you use and your technique for getting the paint to look like it is airbrushed? One of the modellers that come to my workshop hand paints and the results are beautiful. But he builds in 1/72. How do you get such a beautiful finish in 1/32.
Dennis
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Ed, Gary and Ben - thank you!
Dave,
An excellent build of a not so easy Roden kit. I have the Sopwith Triplane nearing completion and your statement of vague instructions is o so right.
What impresses me the most is your hand painting. What brand of paint do you use and your technique for getting the paint to look like it is airbrushed? One of the modellers that come to my workshop hand paints and the results are beautiful. But he builds in 1/72. How do you get such a beautiful finish in 1/32.
Dennis
That's very kind of you to say, Dennis.
The paint I use is Revell 'Aqua' colour acrylic range. From the pot the paint is thick (it's meant to be so you thin it down before use and a pot lasts for ages) and I thin down with tap water to about consistancy of milk. I always use a neutral basecoat (same paint) then apply top coat colour in several thin layers until I get the coverage I like.
Hope this helps!
Regards
Dave
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Dave,
Thank you. It is something I will look into. There are some models that are easier to paint by hand rather than an air brush.
Dennis
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Not sure how I missed this but thought I’d chime in to agree with everyone else, this is a beautiful build, top-shelf work!
Dutch
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Thank you, Dutch!
Regards
Dave