forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
The David Wilson Memorial Group Build 2024 => The David Wilson Memorial Group Build 2024 => Topic started by: macsporran on May 17, 2024, 03:04:23 AM
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I'm such a stop-start modeller that I'm hesitant about Group Builds, but if I'm ever going to do one, it's going to be for Dave W, so I'll throw my hat in the ring here with the last Wingnut kit that joined the stash.
Funnily when it was originally released (at about 50GBP here) I thought, No, I've got a D.VIa, I'll not bother with a D.VIb! Big mistake. Of course once it was sold out I wished I'd bought one, then when WNW went west, I wished even more that I'd got one. Then I saw the sky-high prices and wished I'd originally bought half-a-dozen!
Anyway I finally added the Roland D.VIb to the stash and I've got the necessary Aviattic lozenge and plenty of refs, so this will be next up. Haven't decided on markings as yet (Definitely NOT the daft US camouflage experimental one though!)
So here we go.
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/LQzLzKJ_md.jpg)
... oops, Sorry I'd better add a pic to show it's completely unstarted!. S.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/Roin4HJ_md.jpg)
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Great to see you joining in! Is this the "Last in the Stash" or the "Last Purchased" ? Either way it's a great kit from what I have seen!
RAGIII
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Looking forward to your build!!!
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Thanks Guys.
Rick - Last to be added rather than last one, I'm afraid.
There's still quite a few to build. Undoubtedly they'll see me out rather than me seeing them out!
S (holding head in shame)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/TVT8f5a_md.jpg)
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Nice choice, I have a DVIa part started and the Roalnds are lovely kits.
I'm such a stop-start modeller that I'm hesitant about Group Builds, but if I'm ever going to do one, it's going to be for Dave W
Me too, I always build to my schedule so never participate in group builds. But this one is a must do.
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Great subject. I'd love to do a mini version of one of these one day. :D
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That's an extremely organised stash you have. It must be nice when you start a new project, a bit like being in a model shop but free.
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Thanks for the interest, chaps.
Time to get something done on this if I'm to try to complete within the allotted span!
First off just some general cutting out and cleaning up. This bit always worries me with kits as finely moulded as this - I'm scared I cut too near the sprue runner, so I always leaves lots attached. Then spend ages taking little by little off until I'm happy. I also leaves bits of the runner with small parts attached but only by one point, for spraying etc. (We probably all do the same.
Also a bit of spraying of internals before starting working some oils into the wood effect. WNW suggest the engine bay be Interior Grey Green like the surviving example at Krakow, but I cannot see why Roland would have overpainted these wooden formers but not the rest. I think that was a later addition.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/dQFmws1_md.jpg)
engine bits ready for spray
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/QfzancB_md.jpg)
Then a few days later, the cockpit tub semi-completed, awaiting rigging, seat, belts etc.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/JyW5W6H_md.jpg)
Lovely little aeroplane this; and it's so nice to be working with Wingnuts quality again!
Onwards, we go!
Sandy
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A nice change after all that hard work with the SE5.......
First off just some general cutting out and cleaning up. This bit always worries me with kits as finely moulded as this - I'm scared I cut too near the sprue runner, so I always leaves lots attached. Then spend ages taking little by little off until I'm happy. I also leaves bits of the runner with small parts attached but only by one point, for spraying etc. (We probably all do the same.
We do indeed! ;)
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Lovely work, Sandy, looking forward to seeing how you deal with that clinker-built fuselage. I wish I had either WNW Roland, but that's what you get for drifting out of the hobby for years at a time.
RE: de-sprueing, I've actually taken to using this absurdly nifty CMK razor saw, which allows you to cut parts off nearly flush, in turn allowing you to clean up the attachment points with a few passes of these likewise absurdly nifty Dspiae carbon-fibre sanding sticks with their cut-to-fit self-adhesive abrasives:
(https://i.postimg.cc/KYB59Ddt/IMG-2253.jpg)
YMMV, but I thought it was worth mentioning :D
Dutch
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Cheers, Nigel and thanks Dutch for these recommendations. Anything that helps with this area is most welcome!
Sandy
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Nice start on the interior wood painting. Looking forward to the next update!
RAGIII
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Cheers, Rick
A bit of progress, to the extent of sewing up the interior tub and letting all the oils and suchlike dry, then rigging the controls (very fiddly) and being quite pleased with how it looks.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/pe0zotd_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/vyztM0r_xl.jpg)
I've been reasonably careful with paint overflows, knowing the tight tolerances with these kits, so of course we have to try dry fit in the fuselage
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/YrkmTxn_md.jpg)
No problem there, but hang on - how much of all this work are we going to be able to see?
(I am a very lazy modeller and don't see the point of painting bits that will be hidden forever - maybe heresy to admit this here but life is too short. Of course you have to paint it otherwise Sod's Law says it will be glaringly obvious.) Let's try other side for fit.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/OaKbKIe_md.jpg)
Oh, we're having a joke surely?
Might as well pop on the top deck and the nose moulding.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/Vc7s0xF_md.jpg)
Gaaaah! And that's with the engine covers still to go on.
Ah well, at least I know it's in there!
Sandy
PS Sorry about the fuzzy pics, I'm trying out a new camera phone and these are supposed to be hi-res, but I need to sort things out yet!
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Know that feeling Sandy ;)
(I've reached the point where if it ain't going to be possible to see it on the finished model I'd rather spend the time improving other areas that can be seen)
Paul
ps - looked great though
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This is stop, start building!!? Wish I could stop like that. Great work!!
Steve
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Nice work Sandy, that interior looks great.
It's not heresy to only build what is going to be seen, I agree with you that life is too short. And of course what happens if you do superdetail everything is that Schrodinger gets his hands on all of your detail work and it disappears (although of course it's still there.....).
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Beautiful work, Sandy. And although that's an amazing cockpit, I'm with you RE: eliminating time spent on unseen detail (Schrödinger notwithstanding...).
Dutch
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Your Roland is really looking terrific. The interior is very well done. I have been a Heretic for years. I Don't Model for God, or Schrodinger ::)
RAGIII
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Thanks, mates.
This is a really nice kit: everything fits like a glove, but the one bit I'm less enamoured of is the requirement to cut off three
of the D.VIa flush-fitting metal fuselage nose covers to replace with a single cover appropriate to the D.VIb.
Simple you say, but remember these are moulded on a nicely represented clinker-built structure, so you have to leave the planking lines under the surgery. I took my time with a new Swann Morton blade and am happy with the result. However when WNW thought of spare SE5a fuselage halves with wrinkles and separate Camel sides for 2F.1 etc, I'd have thought a new Roland nose section with the amended plates would have been pre-planned. Maybe they hadn't thought of the D.VIb variant at initial concept time.
Anyway, careful surgery and new covers ready to go on.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/Yc06SW6_xl.jpg)
Sandy
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Tedious work for a WNW kit :o Like you I am Sort of surprised!
RAGIII
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Nice work. I am going to get me one of those DSPIAE reciprocating sanders that everyone is talking about. I have this kit to do and it seems like it would be the ideal tool for this kind of work.....
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Nice progress.
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Cheers, guys.
I'm going for the box-art marking scheme so a fair amount of varnished clinker fuselage will be on show.
I'm going to use Mr Hobby H318 Radome as the base colour then work in various W&N oils for the grained planks.
Since it'll all be covered up, I'm going to do something I've never done before - spray the two fuselage sides before gluing it all up. This way I can avoid the tedium of masking the cockpit and engine in situ!
So hold them together with a lump of tissue in the engine/cockpit space and a clothes peg on the tail - and into the booth!
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/zt8mCEB_md.jpg)
Then out into daylight to dry out before closing up and starting with the oils.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/Yw0dbkS_md.jpg)
Notice the empty sherry glass to show how work goes on a rainy Sunday afternoon!
Sandy
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Dam! That's made me want a glass of sherry now.
Alan.
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Since it'll all be covered up, I'm going to do something I've never done before - spray the two fuselage sides before gluing it all up. This way I can avoid the tedium of masking the cockpit and engine in situ!
A very interesting approach that could work well with this fuselage. Masking engines is a right pain!
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We are being treated to quite a few unusual building and painting sequences in this Group Build. The best part is they All seem to work well. Nice progress on painting your Roland Fuselage.
RAGIII
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Love the updates! It's looking great :)
I thought about spraying some og the exterior colors before joining the halves. The Dolphin was very trick to mask.
Im very interested to see how it works out.
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Thanks Al, Nigel, Rick, AJ.
As hoped, the two sides mated perfectly with only a tiny amount of clean-up necessary. May not, in fact, have been needed as the oils will cover things anyway, but I realized I hadn't done the little strip of keel under lower wing, so popped a few drops of Mr Hobby Radome back in the brush and tidied things up.
Obviously this wouldn't be a process I would follow on most colour schemes, but on this one it did save so much of that intricate masking around the engine bay etc.
The metal panels still to be attached will be grey-green so different colour and the wooden top panel is one of those incredibly satisfying WNW junctions where it just clicks into place with no join line visible. (I just wanted to leave the internals on show for as long as possible before hiding forever!)
Now to start mixing and pre-drying oils!
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/7T4hEZB_xl.jpg)
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That's worked well, like you I hate masking round the engine bay. I think the oils will pull it all together nicely.
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I love it when cunning plans actually work out! Mine usually devolve into having to do seven times more work to fix what goes wrong when they blow up in my face. It's interesting that the Roland fuselage halves fit together so well, while the Eindeckers I'm building now require a ton of work to eliminate the seams, particularly on the turtledeck...
Dutch
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I am glad things went as planned. I Look forward to seeing the Oils applied!
RAGIII
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Enjoying this one. The Roland is one of those models that's not seen often enough (Oooo what about a triplane) 8)
Paul
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Again, thanks everybody for continuing interest and encouragement.
Right. Time to address those clinker fuselage striations. Photos show a fair variation in tone in the planks used so I decided to approach this with oils. This is one of my favourite bits of WWI modelling - working in and refining the colours. With long drying times you can keep going back to adjust.
I laid out my tools - burnt sienna, naples yellow, raw umber and cadmium orange, some thinners, a fast drying agent, Q-tips, some coffee filters to work on and some good small brushes. This one is a real hairy stick for coverage.
(I find well-used W&N caps jam shut so a pair of pliers is always handy to get quick access!)
First task was to get a good base tone to cover all the wood areas - I love burnt sienna but have to be careful as a little goes a long way and can easily darken a model too much.
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/VslAbct_xl.jpg)
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Right, having a good overall colour with a little subtle grain and allowed to start to dry overnight, we can start adding variation.
Using a fine brush loaded with thinners then drained off on a filter paper, we can start to remove oils from individual planks. This is a time consuming job but helped immensely by the WNW moulding definition.
The damp brush is applied to the end of a random plank then drawn along it to reveal the acrylic base coat. As soon as the oils resist, brush is reloaded and applied again. After application a cotton bud is used to work thinners and paint a bit more. This is a very subtle process and benefits from variation.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/FABZlNK_xl.jpg)
Next, a slightly darker oil mix is applied to alternate random planks with a fine brush. Again cotton buds are used to smooth and pattern this fresh paint and each plank is worked with paint, thinners and brush until a satisfactory effect is achieved.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/fCeUt8c_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/ZHvzeNc_xl.jpg)
Sandy
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Let's put it away for the night and have a look with fresh eyes in the morning.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/pdBEWTl_xl.jpg)
zzzzz zzzzz!
Right, let's see what daylight shows.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/EjE859i_xl.jpg)
Yes, I think I'm happy with that. But as with all things, I'll leave it for a day and go back to make sure I'm still happy.
Sandy
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That wood looks lovely indeed.
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Very impressive results! Sherry is clearly a handy modelling accessory!
Steve
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Looking really good with the oils so far. I too love working with oils to get wood effects, and like you, Burnt Sienna is my favourite colour. I have to be careful not to overuse it otherwise everything goes a bit orangey-red!
Are you going to try to replicate any of the "finger" joins in the clinker? I think this would be quite hard to do myself (one of the reasons I am doing a black fuselage on mine!).
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Thanks Prze and Steve
.. and thanks too, Nigel. I'm not sure what these finger joints are. (My only experience of clinker builds was a Billings Viking ship in wood many years ago.) Are these the butt-joints of shorter planks?
I don't intend doing too much more before establishing exactly where the markings and Kreuze will go, so I don't spend time on something I'll then cover up! Then will come shading and weathering.
At the moment I'm trying to decide whether to apply a clear yellow overspray (as originally intended), or not, as I quite like it as it is. I'll do a test shot before I decide.
You've got me wondering about finger joints now though!
Sandy
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Nigel. I'm not sure what these finger joints are.
It's where they joined the wood in one row of planking, it looks like you are sliding the fingers of one hand into those of the other. Scroll through the pics on the WNW DIVa page here and you will see what I mean: http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3004&cat=1
They seem more obvious on some aircraft than others. It's the kind of detail that I obsess over once I have noticed it...... Only a hard core nerd would notice if they aren't there :D
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It's where they joined the wood in one row of planking
I'm with you now, Nigel. I must say, scanning through the Herris book & Datafile etc I hadn't picked up on this - but now it's there it'll bother me!!
Not sure how I'd represent this: maybe a single hair from a paintbrush to apply the chevrons. Hmm. Sort of thing WNW could have included on the decal sheet - maybe I'll re-classify this as an OOB build (if it's not in the kit, it doesn't get done)!
Cheers
Sandy
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Not sure how I'd represent this: maybe a single hair from a paintbrush to apply the chevrons. Hmm. Sort of thing WNW could have included on the decal sheet - maybe I'll re-
Proper Plane did do some decals for the Roland which included the joins but they are all sold out. Maybe just cut some jagged edges in a lightweight paper strip and use that as a mask to get the effect with oils - you could add this on top of the first oil coat and just feather the edges into the existing paint. Or not bother. Or do a painted scheme like I plan to.... ;)
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Looks gorgeous Sandy
(I'm looking at the clinker hull on the Billings longship model on top of the book case as we speak. Ah those instructions were fun - 'Plank hull to shape shown from enclosed wood' :o)
Keep it going
Paul
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Well, whatever details you deem Necessary are important are indeed important ::) Personally I think a well done finish is impressive enough.
RAGIII
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Thanks Prze and Rick.
... and, Nigel, I've had a look at the WNW pics (should have done this in the first place) and my initial assumption that these joints could be represented by a fine line (perhaps a decal) prove unrealistic as most appear to mark the join of a darker plank with a lighter one.
Hmm. several thoughts - first using a very fine aluminium foil - maybe Bare Metal Foil - as a mask, cutting these little chevrons into the foil then overlaying on planks to apply oils. However I found these ultra-thin foils too delicate to cut accurately. So I resorted to the metal foil from a bottle of Rioja!
This was easier to work with and after several attempts, something approximating to what I wanted was achieved.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/YFHXUOl_xl.jpg)
To see if the system would work I overlayed on a plank and gently brushed on some darker oil tone.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/uWhOkPy_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/Bs1cAJT_xl.jpg)
Well it's not perfect, (and the picture is under a very bright light,) but I think I've got a way forward. I'll practice a bit more and apply a few more joints - bearing in mind that a black line will obscure the middle two planks of this scheme all along the fuselage. also I'll need to tone things down a little, just leaving the darker definition at the actual join. But this will be sufficient for what was intended as a simple OOB exercise. Well it's a tribute to Dave, so worth the work!
Sandy
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That works for me Sandy, I think under normal viewing conditions it will look great and will give the correct impression that these weren't single long planks. Definitely worth the effort IMO, well done.
And I am glad you are trying this out for me, because after finishing a black fuselaged Pfalz I have changed my plans for my Roland and will be doing one with some visible planking instead of a black-painted fuselage.
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I think your solution to the joints look excellent for a Model in 1/32nd scale. When all are done, the stripe painted, and Markings applied it will look perfect!
RAGIII
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Thanks again for the support guys.
Finally nice to get a wee bit of colour onto the Roland. One of these jobs where you have to plan out the sequence for applying masking, but great when it comes together. The white fuselage field is slightly off vertical as I followed the tiny nail dots when applying tape, which turn out not to be perpendicular, but not to worry, the vertical black stripes will tidy that up.
I spent ages looking at Vallejo, AK, Mr, MRP, Halfords, etc for a good vibrant red colour and couldn't make up my mind, so in the end decided to go with the WNW recommendation of Tamiya XF-7 and actually find it most pleasing of all! Of course the shades will alter under weathering and varnishes but so far, so good.
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/E08vfVQ_xl.jpg)
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The color combination of wood, red, white, and black looks fantastic. It will be even better with some crosses and lozenge wings!
RAGIII
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That looks really good, very smart indeed. How did you mask the red markings over the clinker boards of the fuselage? I face this challenge on mine (now you convinced me to include some wood in the scheme ;)), and it's worrying me already.......
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Cheers, Rick and Nigel.
I just used Thin Tamiya tape for masking but worked into the clinks (?) with a dental spatula. (I use quite a few dental tools, wife used to work for a dentist!).
I'm a bit annoyed with the X-18 semi gloss black recommended by WNW, as it has dried with a bit of a ragged edge. I should have just used the standard matt black. Not to worry, a few passes with some finishing abrasive paper will sort it. But should have been unnecessary.
Sandy
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Beautiful work Sandy. Very striking colors. The lozenge and national markings will really enhance things as well.
Tim
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That is turning out really nicely! Colours look really good!
/Fredrik
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Fine progress!
And who would think that a bottle of La Rioja may have other applications besides the obvious ones - surely the best red wine in Europe!
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Nice and colorful! I really like it! You made some very good progress :D
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Thanks Tim, Fredrik, Prze & AJ
One of those two-steps-forward-two-steps-back weeks!
Couldn't resist popping a cross on the fuselage just to see what it looks like. Also thought I'd try one o the new AK paint marker pens to draw a black line around the rudder. (WNW surmise red, but Ronnie Bar in his wonderful profiles books shows a black line - which seems to accord with lots of photos in the Herris book of factory construction.) There are two rudders in the kit and I'd sprayed the wrong one, so this is just a test, which looks very promising however.
Anyway main job was to be spraying the wings white for the Aviattic decals. A quick mist of Halfords white primer was fine, then a can of BWM Alpine White for the gloss coat. I ought to have paused here as I bought this colour when I had a white BMW 530 five or six years ago. A good shaking and then application over wings and ailerons and .... disaster! The paint had gone off and a thick white sludge was drying on my lovely fine-detailed WNW wings.
Oh well! Pour some standard thinners in an ice-cream tub and wash the gunk off with a big soft brush. The cellulose thinners will remove just about anything and is an essential tool for a clumsy modellers like me! Quickly washed off with water to stop it attacking the plastic and ... we're back at stage one!
Plan B. We'll spray it with Tamiya X-2. Except my last bottle of X-2 had dried up.
Here I have to give a shout out to Jadlam in the UK who sell paints etc at the same price as my nearest model shop (Wonderland in Edinburgh, 50 miles away) but supply 48 hours Royal Mail delivery for free! They also give you points towards discounts on future purchases and frequently give great prices on new kits too.
(No connx except as a happy customer BTW.)
Anyway, ordered some X-2 on Thursday at 3pm and delivered Saturday at 2.15pm post free. Great Supplier!
Right, now to catch up on lost time.
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/piYU2So_xl.jpeg)
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Oh dear, these things are sent to try us....... Glad you rescued it.
Here I have to give a shout out to Jadlam in the UK who sell paints etc at the same price as my nearest model shop
Jadlam is a 30 minute drive from me and they have an amazing stock of paints and accessories. I've made several urgent runs over there to pick up some pretty obscure stuff.
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Lucky save! Good luck with plan B.
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Phew! The stakes are of course always increasing as any build progresses, but how good that you could save the wings.
/Fredrik
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Glad the white disaster was only temporary! Nice that you can get supplies that quickly, and especially with No postage!
RAGIII
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I bookmarked your solution for the wing/paint disaster, because I expect to have some of my own later on...
Willem
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Sandy, you can coat Future over the white primer to get your gloss, I do it all the time...
I have a Roland DVIb 1/48 on the short list and will use the same method for the wood splices.
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Thanks, Allan.
Yes I do that often with other decals, but I'd read an Aviattic post warning to use gloss paint rather than Future, so I didn't want to chance the lozenge falling off or pulling off if I need to mask.
I'm sure it depends on how matte the primer is - some you can drench in Future and it refuses to shine! (I know from car models in the past!)
Cheers
Sandy
PS lozenging going well, pics soon!
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Life keeps getting in the way - mostly involving a chain saw and some large trees in my garden - but a bit of on and off time with airbrush and decals means I'm finally getting some nice colours onto the Roland.
I can't help plugging it together to see where we're going with this.
Soon be able to zoom around the room emitting engine and spandau noises!!
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/wo7nGHs_xl.jpg)
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Looking very nice now Sandy.
Alan.
P.S. your not the only one to make aeroplane and Spandau noises.
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That's looking very nice Sandy, the decals appear to have gone on very well.
PS I swear by the Mr Hobby acrylic varnishes in rattle cans, their gloss is a superb base for Aviattic decals.
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I've been following your progress with great interest Sandy and have to say this is a magnificent bit of modeling you're posting here; she's a beauty! I have been delaying my "A" version for some time to figure a way to deal with getting a contrast on the individual planks on a natural wood finish on the fuselage and will unashamedly duplicate your efforts here, beautifully done!
Like you I passed on the "B" version and now regret it! I'll be keeping an eye open for another chance should one pop up for a price less then the prize in the Lottery I'll never win....... "He who hesitates is lost" as the old saying goes"!
Cheers,
Lance
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Beautiful work! The lozenge looks Fantastic!
RAGIII
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That really is a bright spot in the modelling world, it even stands out colourwise in the fairly colourful WWI part of that world!
/Fredrik
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Your Roland is coming together beautifully, Sandy. A marvelous combination of well-rendered colors, too. Truly eye catching.
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Thank you everybody, for the nice words and encouragement.
I find it very frustrating when I bodge a lozenge corner or allow a little white to show throw, so this is my repair kit!
Bought for a few quid in "The Works" retail outlet, it usually sits in the back of a drawer, but comes out for mixing precise matches to cover up these tiny blemishes.
The Aviattic lozenge sets didn't contain wheel covers and I used my DSPIAE cutter to fabricate what I needed but no matter how carefully I sized the discs, I'd get a trace of white at the edges. So, the acrylic set came in handy to fill the loz colour round these edges.
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/FCsHXZl_xl.jpg)
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Nice work Sandy. I always find a bit of touch up of the lozenge is required, either because there are one or two small gaps or because I wear the edges away on the wings as I handle then in the build process. Although I have to say this problem has reduced since I started using the Mr Hobby spray varnishes.
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Thanks Nigel
Where do you find Mr Hobby in rattle cans? I have plenty of sources for the bottles, thinners, surfacer etc, but haven't seen the spray cans. (Of course I've just missed an opportunity at the big annual Edinburgh show this past weekend!)
Ta
Sandy
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Where do you find Mr Hobby in rattle cans?
At shows or at my local model shop which has a totally amazing stock of Mr Hobby, AK, Tamiya, MIG and more paints and stuff. But that's probably a long way for you to travel.....(it's in Glastonbury ;))
If you do get some, make sure you get the acrylic, water-based stuff, not the lacquer-based ones.
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At shows or at my local model shop which has a totally amazing stock of Mr Hobby, AK, Tamiya, MIG and more paints and stuff. But that's probably a long way for you to travel.....(it's in Glastonbury ;))
If you do get some, make sure you get the acrylic, water-based stuff, not the lacquer-based ones.
Thanks Nigel, I'll keep an eye out for them.
S
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Mixing the acrylics is a Fantastic Idea for touch up Sandy! Well Done!
RAGIII
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Thanks Rick
October looms, I'd better get a move on.
Some detail work, mostly propellor - watercolour pencil striations on a beige basecoat and varnished.
Onwards and upwards
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/Xebcdes_xl.jpg)
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That Prop is Gorgeous! One thing I feel I have never fully Mastered!!
RAGIII
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Nice work Sandy, I too agree that the prop looks fantastic. I found watercolour pencils a bit too soft for this, so I moved to normal pencils. What brand of watercolour pencils did you use?
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Thanks Rick
and Nigel - yes, at first I put Revell Aqua Beige silk matt then started to draw the laminates but as you say, the pencils were too soft and were just skidding over the paint, so I stripped, put Beige down again, then coated with (quite thick) W&N Galeria Matt varnish. After this the pencils worked fine, although I had to keep sharpening them to get a good edge to the layers. Then a light coat of Tamiya X22 Clear to seal it in, followed by a light brushing with Winton Burnt Sienna oils and then more Clear after drying.
Pencils are nothing special, just a box from 'The Works' - where I pick up a lot of cheap art supplies. Sadly their brushes are nowhere near as good as they used to be (but I bought stacks of the old ones!)
Cheers
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/rHsmVur_md.jpg)
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Thanks Sandy. I think the matt surface is the key, something that Bertl pointed out when he explained his approach.
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Funny how as you get towards the latter stages of a build, lots of little details that you forgot about earlier suddenly reassert their significance and need to be dealt with. Just when you want to get on with mounting the top wing.
Oh well, better to to get them done now rather than trying to drill holes, paint, etc once you cannot get access!
Getting there, though.
Sandy
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/zWu9rwm_md.jpg)
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Yes, strange isn't it?! You have just gotten a feeling of speed and progress and then everything slows down again. Regardless of your current speed and progress, this is a very nice build!
/Fredrik
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Looking very good and definitely getting there. I know I should read the WNW instructions more thoroughly because I always find there's always a few things I have missed....
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Love the progress on this colorful model. Really turning out nicely ;D
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Thank you guys for the much-needed encouragement.
Much needed? well, yes - something happened which put this project in the 'at risk' category. 'At risk' because a stupid eye-off-the-ball miscalculation put the whole thing in jeopardy - fear not though, all is well now.
Getting excited as we approach the finishing line I opted to open out the wing holes prior to installing rigging lines. I usually use small drills or drill bits in a pin vice, but this time I thought I'd speed things up by using one of my favourite USB drills. Port lower wing - no problem, all cleared out. Starboard lower - I went too near the lozenge surface with the drill and must have touched the collet to the Aviattic decal. Suddenly a chunk of decal was caught in the drill and ripping off the wing. No oaths were issued - I was actually too shocked. I stared at the mess in disbelief.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/HVwSkbo_xl.jpg)
As comprehension set in, I realised that I needed to fix this quickly or I maybe never would.
I sliced a straight line next to the nearest surviving rib tape and worked the torn decal off with a flat brush and lots of water.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/R8pMiut_xl.jpg)
Slowly working the torn mess off I had a neat surface to work with.
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/5OSU8kV_xl.jpg)
Fortunately, Aviattic include spare wing tip segments which came in handy, as well as a spare piece of lozenge that was just big enough to patch and match the pattern. Last job was to paint some spare decal film with pale gray/beige and slice into strip to apply as rib tapes over the new plain section. In fact it only took maybe an hour to fully repair as good as new. There's a lesson in there somewhere about just getting on with things rather than overthinking the difficulties!
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/6d9efp8_xl.jpeg)
As you can see I've now got the top wing on, with nice big black crosses and the rigging is started. I'll push on with this and mount the undercarriage - Not far to go now.
(phew!!)
Sandy
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Great save - we?ve all been there! It?s looking very nice - one of my favourite planes.
Cheers
Matt
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Brilliant recovery Sandy, the photo was terrifying and especially at this late stage of the build! No harm done. a good lesson for the rest of us as well and it's going to be a magnificent model when completed. Well done and congratulations in advance!
Cheers,
Lance
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Things getting stuck in drills can turn out real bad. Glad there were only material damages. No visible trace after the repair either.
It?s a beautiful machine!
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Phew! Very happy to see it sorted.
/Fredrik
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Great save Sandy, and amazing repair work. If you hadn't told me I wouldn't know!
That's the trouble with 1/32 kits. They take a lot of time and effort (and money) to complete, but there is so much jeopardy, especially as you get towards the end of the build. A little mistake, or rushing something, can ruin days/weeks of work. I guess it's all part of the fun........
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Brilliant save (and nice to see I'm not the only one who has these disasters) ;)
Paul
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Totally agree with Paul. Nice save.
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I've been there, Sandy. I was a bit hasty in handling a Roden 1/48th D.VII and a huge chunk of the lozenge decal got stuck to my thumb. I must say that your recovery a dn repair worked out much better than mine. Your Roland is looking really great!
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Wonderful work Sandy, excellent recovery! Looking forward to seeing this one finished!
Cheers
BC
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Thank you everybody for all the kind words and encouragement.
I thought I'd try and do a quick build on this one, fired up by the idea of a tribute to our late friend and mentor, but as usual life intervened and finally several months later I can at last call this one completed.
Lovely Wingnuts kit, which I'd decided I didn't need when it was originally released as I already had the D.VIa. Hmmph, over the years of course it became the one I most wanted - especially for that great blood red tail, lozenge and wood finish. I was going to use the WNW decals but a set of Aviattic appeared on ebay and I pressed the button. When it arrived I found I'd got three sets - 4 colour fresh and worn and 5 colour fresh. So the D.VIa will be Avaitticed too - with a set to spare in case of any more stupid mistakes!
Anyway here's what my camera phone can capture:
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/GygBU4C_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/tkWpRvv_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/WZx5UxP_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/w5gVf68_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/uZtcIMK_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/EjqgzyR_xl.jpg)
(https://cdn.imgpile.com/f/adKzIHc_xl.jpg)
Dave my friend, I hope you are skimming the clouds in a blue sky. Thanks for everything
Sandy
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Great model all round Sandy and a very nice tribute, congratulations!
Cheers,
Lance
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Congratulations on a beautiful build and getting over the finish line with plenty of time to spare! That's one sweet looking Roland.
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Ditto. What a wonderful looking plane and such a striking colour scheme.
Alan.
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Bravo! I love this scheme as well and you?ve done a wonderful job.
Cheers
Matt
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Lovely work Sandy, she has turned out really well. Excellent modelling all round, well done! A great tribute to Dave.
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I did an audible gasp when I flicked back a page to see what everyone was talking about for the repair. Agreed, GREAT save. I would have thought that decals adhere better than that !!
Your build has moved my Roland closer to the top of my build list.
Great finish, great tribute.
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A fast response saved the day! A fitting tribute and a lesson for me about NOT procrastinating.
Steve
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What a stunning model! I hope mine will turn out half as good ;) :D
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What a beauty!!!
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Lovely model
Too often overlooked amongst the flocks of Albies and DVII's, it has it's own 'feel' and your build captures the look really nicely 8)
Paul
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Thank you everybody - Roland is over in the completed section now (with his own Knight Errant sitting atop!)
S
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Nice Work, Fitting Tribute !
Ed
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Cheers, Ed.
S