forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on November 05, 2023, 07:59:15 PM
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Hi all,
Something I don't do is to build two models at the same time.
However I'm starting a double build.
The first is the 'HPH Models' 1:32nd scale resin model of the Italian Macchi M.5 floatplane.
This is a commission build for the Commander of the Italian Frigate 'Federico Martinengo'.
His ship was named after the Italian naval pilot of WW1, Federico Carlo Martinengo.
I've previously built a version of this model and have a build log on the forum and on my web site.
The only differences between the two models will be the aircraft markings.
As such, I won't create a build log for this model here on the forum.
The second build is the 'Lukgraph' 1:32nd scale resin Hanriot HD.1.
This was on order before 'Copper State Models' announced their intention to release this model.
The model will be of the Belgian Hanriot HD.1, serial HD 24 of Willy Coppens, Escadrille 9me during 1918,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/PIERGIORGIOM.5/header.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/pageheader.jpg)
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Eagerly awaiting both these builds Mike. The Macchi is on my short list of future projects. In 1/72 of course!
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Great choices (The Hanriot is a favourite of mine that isn't seen that often
The Macchi is on my short list of future projects. In 1/72 of course!
Got the Pegasus Macchi in 72nd too Tim (which was nearly started before I decided to denude the shelf of Tripes, so perhaps when these are all finished) :-\ :D
Paul
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Eagerly awaiting both these builds Mike. The Macchi is on my short list of future projects. In 1/72 of course!
Hi Tim,
I'll not post a build log here for the Macchi M.5 as there's already a build log for my previous model here:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10645.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10645.0)
There's of course my PDF build log on the 'logs' page on my site (link in signature block below),
Mike
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Thanks Mike. I’ll definitely be referring to your build log.
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Hi all,
The cockpit has been completed and the fuselage closed up.
As usual, working on 3D printed complete assemblies, such cockpit frames and engines, can limit what can be achieved with painting and assembly.
However, this kit didn't present too many problems.
That said I did replace the kit supplied cockpit instrument decals and pilots seat straps.
I used appropriate instrument decals from the 'Airscale' WW1 generic instrument set.
Also the kit supplied photo-etch seat belts, which are basic to say the least, are too short.
They can't be attached to where they should be on the cockpit side frames and still reach over the pilots seat.
So they were replaced with 'HGW models' fabric belts made up from my 'spares'.
I've added the following:
Throtle control rods (0.4mm Nickel Silver tube).
Fuel level indicator (0.5 mm Brass tube and copper wire).
Pulsometer pipe ('MFH' 0.4mm flexible tube).
Tachometer drive cable ('MFH' 0.4mm flexible tube).
Unidentified pipe on cockpit left (copper wire).
Machine gun trigger cable (lead wire).
Rudder, aileron and elevator control cables (0.12 mm mono-filament and 0.4 mm Brass tube).
Cockpit side, bottom and seat frame crossed bracing wires (0.12 mm mono-filament and 0.4 mm Brass tube).
The cockpit opening of this aircraft is smaller than most, so even less is visible once the fuselage is closed up.
Also the engine is complete.
The only additions made were adding valve push rods (0.4mm Nickel-Silver tube).
Spark plug ignition leads ('EZ' black line).
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/pitdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/pitdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/pitdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/pitdone4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/fusdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/fusdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/engdone.jpg)
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Just released, now building it already > looks good, too! 8)
One question though... I recently purchased the LeRhone from Lukgraph, but (other than the printlines that need cleaning op...) I've found the fit of the cilinders into the crankcase really tight... did yo modify something for a better fit, or should I simply press them harder?
The printed stuff is really brittle, so I'm not all that keen to apply more pressure...
I've kind of avoided the construction of the engine so far ;)
Any tips, yes-do or no-do-nots?
Thanks in advance!
Jeroen
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Fine modeling, Mike. The interior is spectacular.
Unfortunately, those print traces on the engine crankcase does not look nice...
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Hi all,
All of the flight surfaces of the kit parts (wings, tail plane, elevator, ailerons, fin and rudder) have heavy and pronounced ribs, which will need sanding down.
These rib tapes caused rippling along the wing leading edges, which also needs to be removed.
Lastly, the internal metal reinforcing rods do keep the resin wings from distorting.
However they are very close to the surface and the ends have broken through the wing tips.
So filling and sanding required,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/wing1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/wing2.jpg)
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Just released, now building it already > looks good, too! 8)
One question though... I recently purchased the LeRhone from Lukgraph, but (other than the printlines that need cleaning op...) I've found the fit of the cilinders into the crankcase really tight... did yo modify something for a better fit, or should I simply press them harder?
The printed stuff is really brittle, so I'm not all that keen to apply more pressure...
I've kind of avoided the construction of the engine so far ;)
Any tips, yes-do or no-do-nots?
Thanks in advance!
Jeroen
Hi Jeroen,
I agree and yes the cylinders are difficult to just insert into their recesses in the engine block
I point marked the centre of each cylinder recess and then drilled them out to the internal edges of the recesses.
That made them easier to locate.
But as you say, the 3D prints are brittle so best to drill with increasing diameter drills,
Mike
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Fine modeling, Mike. The interior is spectacular.
Unfortunately, those print traces on the engine crankcase does not look nice...
Hi Przemol,
Yes they're fairly prominent, but as the engine is more or less hidden by the cowl, I didn't bother to sand them away.
However, I did remove them from the 3D printed engine cowl,
Mike
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Lovely work Mike, this is going to look good.
That engine is pretty poor, both in terms of the 3D print lines and the quality of the modelling. The Aviattic Siemens-Halske in the Pfalz DVIII is light years ahead of this.
I have the same problem on the wings of the Oeffag Albatros but fortunately the protruding wires seem to sand down pretty easily.
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Unfortunately, those print traces on the engine crankcase does not look nice...
Hi Przemol,
Yes they're fairly prominent, but as the engine is more or less hidden by the cowl, I didn't bother to sand them away.
However, I did remove them from the 3D printed engine cowl,
Mike
Clever approach ;) I will cheer for the success of this project, Hanriot is such a lovely machine
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Hi all,
Well I'll start with the flight surfaces.
I've sanded down all of the over scale rib tapes on all of the flight surfaces.
I've also filled then sanded where the wing internal support rods protruded from the wing tips.
The tail plane locating recess on the rear of the fuselage has two huge 1.2 mm diameter holes.
I assume these were intended to be used to locate the tail plane onto the fuselage.
However, the underside of the resin tail plane has no locating stubs and is smooth.
To ensure the tail plane located correctly, I resorted to inserting 1.2 mm diameter tubes into the fuselage holes, with 0.5 mm diameter rods fitted in the tubes.
I drilled the locating holes through the tail plane and fitted it down onto the rods.
The fin is just a butt join to the top of the tail plane - not good.
So I drilled two 0.5 mm diameter holes in the base of the fin, so it could be located onto the protruding rods.
The rudder is also a butt join the the rear of the fin, so these were drilled and rods inserted to support the rudder.
I did the same to attach the elevator to the tail plane, which enabled me to angle the elevator down slightly.
The 3D printed tail skid support and the tail skid are again just butt joins.
Therefore, I drilled and pinned the tail skid to the bottom of the rudder post on the support frame.
This should provide a sturdier joint for the tail skid.
Also I has to sand down the over-scale thickness of the tail skid to a more 'in-scale' thickness.
The lower wing halves are intended to have rods fitted to support them in the fuselage.
Whilst the wing roots can be drilled far enough to add sufficient rods, the amount of fuselage support is minimal.
Drilling to far into the fuselage means you'll hit the cockpit internal structure or components.
The wing rods are good enough to locate the wings into the fuselage.
But I think most of the wing support will be from the adhesive joints between the wing roots and fuselage.
The upper wing halves are intended to be joined together using inserted rods, which pass through holes in the top of the 3D printed cabane struts assembly.
However, the spread of the printed cabane struts is too wide to fit into the fuselage recesses.
Pressure needs to be applied to get the struts located and given how brittle the printed resin is, they could break under pressure.
Also the ends of the struts are not shaped to fit into their locating recesses in the fuselage.
I reshaped the strut ends and managed to drill and pin the struts onto the fuselage to hold them in position.
So now it's onto sorting out the upper wing installation.
Pretty good for the kit only cost 145 GBP ???
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/rudder.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/skid.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/lowwing.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/cabane.jpg)
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Hi all,
Again, a problem to overcome.
The interplane struts are 3D printed so have no internal support rods.
Also, they have no end locators.
However, the upper and lower wings have locating recesses.
I assume the original intention was that rods, from presumably resin struts, would use these locating recesses.
So I drilled 0.3 mm diameter holes into the end of the struts and added Brass locating rods.
These will hopefully provide better location for the 3D printed interplane struts.
That is assuming that the brittle resin struts don't break during assembly or under the weight of the solid resin upper wing halves - we'll see,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/struts.jpg)
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Fantastic modelling and problem solving Mike. We are very lucky, given your rate of building, to have you acting as Guinea pig with these kits. Although these are clearly not ‘snap together’ kits, it is as you say frustrating to find these issues with such expensive purchases. I wonder how the CSM version will compare if Edgar gets it over the line.
It is easy to be tempted into grabbing all these wonderful kits coming on the market, but I wonder how many people have your skills. I hope not too many models end up on the ‘shelf of doom’!
David
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Fantastic modelling and problem solving Mike. We are very lucky, given your rate of building, to have you acting as Guinea pig with these kits. Although these are clearly not ‘snap together’ kits, it is as you say frustrating to find these issues with such expensive purchases. I wonder how the CSM version will compare if Edgar gets it over the line.
It is easy to be tempted into grabbing all these wonderful kits coming on the market, but I wonder how many people have your skills. I hope not too many models end up on the ‘shelf of doom’!
David
Hi David,
I think given CSM's track record of kit accuracy and build quality, that kit would be a better option for the less experienced modeler,
Mike
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Yes, Lukgraph models... but you are truly cruising over all the problems.
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Just released, now building it already > looks good, too! 8)
One question though... I recently purchased the LeRhone from Lukgraph, but (other than the printlines that need cleaning op...) I've found the fit of the cilinders into the crankcase really tight... did yo modify something for a better fit, or should I simply press them harder?
The printed stuff is really brittle, so I'm not all that keen to apply more pressure...
I've kind of avoided the construction of the engine so far ;)
Any tips, yes-do or no-do-nots?
Thanks in advance!
Jeroen
Hi Jeroen,
I agree and yes the cylinders are difficult to just insert into their recesses in the engine block
I point marked the centre of each cylinder recess and then drilled them out to the internal edges of the recesses.
That made them easier to locate.
But as you say, the 3D prints are brittle so best to drill with increasing diameter drills,
Mike
Thanks Mike, I had kind of hoped it would only be my example -I'm not experienced with 3D printing, but I guess it would be possible to print this so it would fit together, if not a bit loose?
Not meant as criticism, but my idea for making sure they are aligned would be to use square mounting holes so they are always aligned, too.
Sharp work so far -I'm off to the drill bits... ;)
Jeroen
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Hi all,
The upper wing had a dihedral angle of 3 degrees, the lower wing was horizontal.
Test fitting the upper wing revealed that the cabane side support struts were too short.
The interplane struts fitted correctly.
Therefore I removed the two rod support lugs on the 3D printed cabane strut assembly.
I then drilled and inserted 0.4 mm diameter rod into the top bar to give the required wing half separation.
This allowed the upper wing to be slightly lower and rest on the cabane top bar.
The upper wing test fit after this was correct,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/cabane1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/wingtest.jpg)
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Lovely. Fine problem solving. And Łukasz seems to enjoy posing such riddles to us ;)
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Nice progress on the Hanriot kit that also tempts me. I am very curious how yours will look like. Leaving the shortcomings of the strut’s length aside, this kit seems to be rather pretty.
Andreas
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Hi all,
The decal sheet supplied in the kit covers all of the schemes.
However, the individual decals are printed as part of the entire carrier film on the sheet.
As such carrier film will probably show around the applied decal.
Therefore, each decal will probably have to be cut out as close as possible to the edges of the decal, before applying to the model.
Also, some of the decals seem to be slightly semi-translucent, meaning the painted colours underneath will show through the decals once applied.
This is not good for a kit of this price, especially considering different painted colour schemes and the intricate shapes of the various decals.
'Cartograph' decals these are certainly not.
Anyway, the basic French five colour camouflage scheme has been applied.
'Tamiya' acrylics used were:
Beige - Desert Yellow (XF59)
Light Green - Olive Green (XF58)
Dark Green - Dark Green 2 (XF70)/NATO Black (XF69)
Chestnut Brown - Flat Brown (XF10)
Black - NATO Black (XF69)
Undersides 'Alclad' Duraluminium (ALC102) oversprayed with 'Tamiya' Light Blue (XF23).
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/painted1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/painted2.jpg)
Mike
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Excellent engineering and problem solving on what is clearly another challenging kit. It looks like the end result will be worth the effort........
Also, the decals are semi-translucent, meaning the painted colours underneath will show through the decals once applied.
This is not good for a kit of this price, especially considering different painted colour schemes and the intricate shapes of the various decals.
The decals in the Oeffag kits suffer from the same problem. It's very poor given the price point of the kits. It's harder to overcome issues with decals IMO, especially for complex markings, than deficiencies with the kit. Unless of course you have a mask cutter........
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Hi Nigel,
I agree.
As for the decals being discarded in favour of cutting masks and airbrushing the markings.
I do have a Cricut Air 2 cutter, which is good for most mask cutting.
However, to cut small and intricate mask is in most cases beyond its capability.
I understand cutters such as the Silhouette range of cutters are better suited to finer and small cutting,
Mike
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Hi all,
I've applied the required decals for this particular aircraft.
I found that as long as the decals are applied over a single colour, they do cover the painted surface under the decals.
However, the lighter coloured decals, especially the white colour, do show the painted surface through the decal.
This is more evident where light coloured decals are applied over contrasting coloured paints.
I've airbrushed a clear coat over the decals to seal and protect them during handling.
They will be airbrushed again later in the build during the weathering phase.
As the camouflage scheme is French, I painted the top of the tailplane and elevator with a base coat of 'Tamiya' Medium Blue (XF18).
The engine and engine cowl have also been fitted.
I found that the engine propeller shaft is not long enough to clear the engine cowl to locate the propeller.
So that's another problem to be sorted out,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/decs1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/decs2.jpg)
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Hi all,
The propeller shaft on the engine is too short to allow the propeller to be fitted and be clear of the front of the engine cowl.
Therefore, I cat away the propeller shaft from the engine.
Using as a guide, the mark left from the shaft, I gradually drilled into the engine up to a size of 1.4 mm diameter.
A length of 1.4 mm diameter Brass tube was cut and secured into the propeller locating hole, using CA adhesive.
This allows the propeller shaft to be fitted into the engine with the propeller clear of the engine cowl,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/propshaft.jpg)
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Brilliant paintwork Mike. I like your choice of colors for the French five color scheme.
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Brilliant paintwork Mike. I like your choice of colors for the French five color scheme.
Hi Tim,
Actually the greens are not quite right.
However, I'd already applied the decals before I found out,
Hey-Ho,
Mike
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Nice save on the propshaft, Mike. And that camo is gorgeous.
Just out of curiosity, do you have any idea what you'd use for the greens were you to do it over, instead of the XF-58 and your XF70+black mix?
Dutch
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Looking very good Mike, I don't think the decals look too bad. The moral of the story is choose your colour scheme with care to minimise bleed through on the decals.
It's a pity about the green colours but I think the overall effect looks very good (I'm no expert on the 5 colour scheme).
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Nice save on the propshaft, Mike. And that camo is gorgeous.
Just out of curiosity, do you have any idea what you'd use for the greens were you to do it over, instead of the XF-58 and your XF70+black mix?
Dutch
Hi Dutch,
Here's two charts (slight differences) which shows what the colours were thought to be.
Research carried out by author Marc Chassard.
A thread here on the forum by 'Xan'.
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=7858.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=7858.0)
Also here on the '1914 forum'.
https://1914.forumactif.com/t231-camouflage-5-tons-francais-1918 (https://1914.forumactif.com/t231-camouflage-5-tons-francais-1918)
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/FRENCH COLOURS/F1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/FRENCH COLOURS/F2.jpg)
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Merci bien, Mike! I'm a member of the Forumactif group as well, but never saw the images you posted of Xan's color matches. For some reason all the photos have been stripped off many of the older threads, including "5 Tons", probably because the original links have gone inactive.
That's actually a problem I run into on this forum too, I was searching the "Aircraft" pages for Eindecker material yesterday, and found that most of Des's photos in his older posts seem to have vanished, either because his photo-hosting account was deleted, or the files have simply expired and are gradually blinking out. Sad, in any event.
Anyway, thanks again, the boys and I will make good use of those formulae!
Dutch
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Great build thread, and very informative. I was very tempted by this and the Halberstadt, but seeing the problems versus the high initial cost, I think I'll bide my time. Given 50+ Wingnuts still in the stash, I'll concentrate on them next I think.
Sandy
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Hi all,
I've replaced three of the colours as I wasn't satisfied.
Light Green - ‘Hataka’ C093 Green (FS34258)
Dark Green - ‘Hataka’ C301 Dark Olive Green (FS34096)
Beige - ‘Hataka’ C060 USMC Sand
These have yet to be weathered so will dull down slightly.
I've fitted the single, central machine gun, using a modified 'Gaspatch' 'Vickers' 11mm 'Balloon Buster', as used by Willy Coppens.
This was p[ainted with 'Alclad' Gunmetal (ALC-120) then dry brushed with 'Mr. Colour' Super Iron 2 (SM203).
The propeller was base coated with 'Tamiya' Flat Red (XF7) and Full Red (XF19) mixed 70/30% ratio.
Windsor & Newton’ Griffin (Alkyd) Vandyke Brown oil paint was then applied to represent the wood effect.
The hub plates were brush painted with ‘Mr. Colour’ Stainless Steel (213) the ’AK Interactive’ Kerosene wash (AK2039).
The interplane struts were base coated with 'Tamiya' Desert Yellow (XF59).
Windsor & Newton’ Griffin (Alkyd) Burnt Sienna oil paint was then applied to represent the wood effect.
Whilst test fitting the tail skid, it snapped in half - no surprise given the brittleness of the 3D printed parts.
So that now needs to be addressed,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/camo5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/camo4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/propdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/struts3.jpg)
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I've replaced three of the colours as I wasn't satisfied.
That's dedication to the cause, I would have moved on..... Nice work, because you can't tell some of the colours have been resprayed.
The wood parts look really realistic, I am sure this will look great when it comes together.
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Nice work with the repaint Mike. I like the color changes you used. The woodwork effect is very realistic!
Tim
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Hi all,
As I said previously, the 3D printed tail skid snapped in half while I was test fitting it
Rather than trying to repair and use the tail skid, I decided to scratch a replacement.
This was made using 1.4 mm diameter Brass tube and 0.5 mm diameter rod.
The tube was flattened to an airfoil profile and reinforced internally with the rod.
the kit supplied tail skid support frame has the bottom of the rudder post.
This is too long as the tail skid was attached at the bottom of the support frame.
Therefore the rudder post was shortened and a hole of 0.5 mm diameter was drilled up into the post.
This hole was used to locate the support Brass rod on the tail skid.
Once secured to the support frame, the 'bungee' type suspension cords were added, using 'EZ' White (heavy) stretch line.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/bungee2.jpg)
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Nice work Mike. Your engineering and modelling skills are very impressive.
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Hi all,
I've weathered the paintwork.
Airbrushed thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
Airbrushed 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311).
Applied 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash.
Removed the wash to leave slight staining.
Airbrush sealing coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311).
Now it's onto pre-rigging before assembly,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/washoff1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/washoff2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/washoff3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/washoff4.jpg)
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Topnotch results, as ever Mike. Nice to see a French bird getting built.
Thanks for the excelent build log/tutorial.
Cheers,
Willem
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This is coming together very nicely. The weathering is just right IMO, not too heavy but shows this is an aircraft that has is on active service.
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Hi all,
Partial construction before pre-rigging.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/con1.jpg)
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Hi all,
The fuselage cabane strut assembly has been fitted.
The rudder pre-rigging has been added using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament, 0.4 mm diameter clear tube and 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.
The ailerons have also been pre-rigged using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/cabane2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/rudetch1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/ailetch1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/ailetch2.jpg)
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Hi all,
The rudder, ailerons and upper wing have now been fitted.
All pre-rigging was also put in place.
However, previously when test fitting the upper wing, I found that the kit supplied 3D printed cabane side support struts were too short.
When located, they were approximately 1.0 mm clear of the fuselage.
So I modified the fuselage cabane strut assembly to lower the upper wing slightly to allow the struts to locate fully.
Now, with the upper wing fitted, I found that the struts were still too short.
Therefore, I decide to discard the kit supplied struts and create replacement struts.
These were made from 1.2 mm diameter Brass tube, formed into an airfoil profile and with internal 0.3 mm diameter Brass locating rods.
Onward upward,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/wingon1.jpg)
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Beautiful work as always, Mike. This one's certainly going to be a colorful addition to your collection, which is one of the things that appeals to me most about the Belgian Great War a/c.
How are you forming the brass struts? deforming them in a vice with the rod trapped inside? Or do you have some kind of a die setup?
Dutch
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Beautiful work as always, Mike. This one's certainly going to be a colorful addition to your collection, which is one of the things that appeals to me most about the Belgian Great War a/c.
How are you forming the brass struts? deforming them in a vice with the rod trapped inside? Or do you have some kind of a die setup?
Dutch
Hi Dutch,
I have a tool called the 'Strutter'.
It was made by Albion Alloys' but unfortunately is no longer available.
It's basically a pair of movable vice jaws.
You insert the rod of choice through the tube of choice.
The rod rests across two spigots in the jaws with the tube in the centre.
As you tighten the vice the jaws tilt around the rod and crush the tube into an airfoil shape.
The rod can be secured in the tube either by CA adhesive or by soft soldering,
Mike
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Thanks, Mike. I seem to recall reading about that tool on the old WW1 List several years ago, but when I looked to see if they were available they were already out of stock. Albion Alloys products in general are hard to find on this side of the herring pond, unfortunately.
Dutch
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Superb modelling Mike, this is looking really good. These kits certainly present plenty of modelling challenges......
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Beautiful modelling Mike! Thanks for sharing tips and tricks :)
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Hi all,
I'm waiting to complete the display case.
However, the model and figures are completed.
I'll post the final photographs soon,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/pilotdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/mechdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/HANRIOT/done.jpg)
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That's looking really good Mike, you overcame the kit's challenges brilliantly. Looking forward to the completed photos.....
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Great to see it complete, looking forward to the final gallery!
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Lovely work Mike, this kit has been on my wishlist so it's great to see you work your magic on it.
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Hi all,
The shots of the completed model are now up in 'Completed Models'.
Thanks for your support and comments during this build,
Mike